Ford 5.4L 2v Triton Engine: Complete Timing Walkthrough

[Music] all right today is the day we finally have a 5.4 liter 2 valve modular Triton engine in the shop for a full timing set now I have a lot of videos on a 5 for 3 valve of course we all know it's a very troublesome engine lots were up here as we made on that engine but these ones are generally very reliable until you get up into the higher miles which these all are by now and they're going to need timing set sooner or later now I'm going to show you the full timing procedure on the 542 valve Windsor engine right here in this 2003 f150 but I'm not going to show actually getting to the timing component because it does vary over the years these engines were used and of course the platform they're stuffed in do so I'll give some general tips here and there but then we're gonna get jump right into the timing procedure and just show you how to do it and do it right now let's now this procedure you may think applies to all 2 valve modular Triton engines it does not the 5 for 2 valve is a Windsor engine whereas a 4.6 liter is timed a little bit different and there's Romeo and there's Windsor versions of the engine so it gets a little complicated it's a bit difference we're just concentrating I'm most popular the 5 for 2 valve Windsor engine as you see here in this truck so let's get over there and get started alright so here is a typical 5 for 2 valve engine apartment yours probably looks you know pretty similar to this a little bit more messy and complicated than the 5 4 3 valve but it's just the same hoses components bolts in brackets and stuff like that so what I do when I come into an engine compartment like this and very first thing disconnect the negative battery cable and the positive then we'll get the battery up and out of the way even if the trave stays it's nice to hold tools parts and lights or working in here and then I'll go right after all the big bulky items like this air intake snorkel here the appearance cover the fan shroud itself and now get the fan out of the way it's a 36 millimeter hub nut on there and get that up and on away and everything will start to open up on here for you now what you need to realize on a vehicle like this and the job that we're doing the timing job all we need to do is get into the valve covers okay when you pull it off and when you pull off the front cover on here so just think about it what is in your way bunch of harnesses hoses vacuum lines coils pull these stuff like this in your way yes some brackets right here for the power steering reservoir and runs for itself some more tubes over here now the one thing you do want to start soaking now because all these do have this is the EGR tube right here so the EGR tube going down and over the manifold well up here they usually you know like they unscrew pretty easy just spray some rust Pantry on the nut right there inches 16s nut and they'll usually come loose but we need to pull the whole tube off because it wraps down around this valve cover right here so down in the wheel well you will see I sprayed mine already right there there we go there is the actual nut down here the jam nut down here that goes the manifold these will be rusted pretty bad this one's not that bad at all so you're gonna need propane or map towards your even an oxy-acetylene torch to get that nice and hot and loosen from the nipple on there so we can get that tube up and out of the way so again do whatever you need to do just look at it and think what do I need to do so I can gain access to the valve cover on both sides and the fro cover around here okay what's nice about these is that you don't need to drain the cooling system at all and you don't need need to discharge the AC system at all because look look on the side here the AC accumulator see it back in there it's pretty far away from the valve cover so there's usually generally enough room one slice harnesses and that dipstick tube and stuff like that are out of the way you can leave the AC system intact so this is Jasmine this is definitely one of those jobs that a do-it-yourselfer can do in their garage without any real special tools okay so before going any further I want to go over my engine compartment here you can see it's a big mess but when I show what I take off to get access to those valve covers and the front cover there so starting over here yes I do pull the battery in the battery box and I mine I did pull the AC accumulator because just easier for video purposes but you don't need to remove it on yours there's plenty of room pull that cover off over there so you kind of take a general look all these harnesses are kind of tucked out of the way look at all of them on top the intake there and the same thing over here you're pulling the coils you're pulling these harnesses and a lot of stuff vacuum lines and just getting everything out of the way now the EGR tube over here you can see it right here it loosened up here no problem like they usually do but down below it was stuck to the nipple down there so the nipple and the pipe moved together it's a real mess don't even fight it swivel it out of the way as you can see here and it gives you enough access to pull this valve cover off without opening a can of worms down there and also these nuts on this particular year are an inch and a quarter so make sure you have a big old wrench on hand for that some of our inch and sixteenth some are inch and a quarter like the big boys same thing with the front cover area here I pulled a fan the shroud of course all the front end accessory drive components AC compressor stays in place the power steering pump of course you want to pull that off and lay it to the side and then that gives us access to pull off the bolts in the front cover and the belt covers so at this point everything is free and clear we can start to tighten procedure and we're going to start off by locking down each one of these cams and then we're going to start removing all his old components and then start building up with new now one of the very first things you want to do is lock down each one of these camshafts into place they cannot move while we're changing out and removing all these timing components up here the chains and everything else if we don't do that it's good it could potentially flip over because they're under spring pressure flip over violently and that actuate another valve and put it down into the piston you can damage the engine you don't want to do that so the way you'll lock them down is some guys use vise grips I don't recommend it at all its use a tool just like this this is from OTC it's part number 511 five four or five I'm sure their versions out there I'll link to them down below that worked just as well but we're going to put one of these on each side and lock it down show you how to do that and that'll hold into place for us so it's safe to remove two tiny components before we do that though we want to kind of pre position the crankshaft and the camshaft so it's close and ready for timing once we start building it back up so what you want to do is turn the crankshaft down there you can see it down there we're gonna turn that with either a six-point 32 millimeters socket like this slips right over it into the keyway and you'll be able to turn it or if you don't have that socket you can put the crankshaft pulley bolt back in and use a regular 18 millimeter socket and a long ratchet and turn the engine over clockwise so we can get these marks in line now what you want to do is you want to get this camshaft and up the 11 o'clock position okay the tummy mark on there and this one at the 12 o'clock position so it looks a little something like this here's the crankshaft and you can see the tiny marks here okay that's how what you want to look I don't have dots on there normally they have these little marks like this okay that's a tiny mark on the sprocket not that that's for the reluctor for the the cam position sensor and on this side there it is once again there's the mark for timing right there so we're going to turn the crankshaft clockwise to get this basically in position and then we can lock down the cams and start tearing stuff down all right so here's the critical pre positioning step for the crankshaft and the camshaft one get as close as possible so there's minimal fidgeting later on get these chains lined up okay what you want to do is get your crankshaft key way that little Woodruff key on there facing straight ups that's 12 o'clock position right now you can see it's at wet like the 10 or 11 o'clock positions we're going to turn it clockwise always turn it clockwise and we're gonna get it to the 12 o'clock position as close as possible you know just with your eye you can see where it's at pretty close now with it at the 12 o'clock position we can go ahead we can get the camshaft sprocket on here now remember that tiny mark should be right around the 11 o'clock position on this side and 12 on the driver side you can see it's telling here it's way off so we're at the position this thing way around we're timing and you don't want to go through all that so we're gonna do is we're gonna get it closed on both sides and both sides are off right now and we're simply going to keep turning this until we're at the call o'clock position again so a full 360 and the reason you're doing this is because the cams run a half speed compare the crank so it's two rotations of the crank for one rotation of the cam shaft back up to 12 again and we're going to look in our marks on the camshaft sprocket be much much closer both banks he's kind of visualize it you know right back there it's 12 well okay now there's no mark on this side it's pretty close to 11 you have to figure twelves right here okay so that's pretty darn close and then we'll check out this sign over here on this side yeah it's closer to one over here f12 right here maybe to even but it's close so we can just position it back a little bit I line the chains when we're going back and timing it so everything looks good at this point this is probably how you're just gonna look crank at 12 and this one right about there so now we can go ahead and you can lock down the cams we're going to install that tool in this second row right here it's right here undo the screws clamp it around clamp it tight while it's against the head on each side and it'll hold it for us so we're nice and safe pulling the rest of this off now with our cams lock down as you can see here just kind of clamps around it we're secure we can go ahead and we can start unbolting the chain tensioner right here ten mill bolts and then we're good the tensioner arm get the chain off get out of the way we have access to the upper guide here eight mill bolts top and bottom they are different the long ones up here short ones down here okay now this attention right here is gonna leak a lot of oil wealth good mount right here on to your compressor so I like to put a little rag right here and start bolting now on yours you may have cast iron tensioners whereas I think a no.3 for valve to valve it didn't matter they start using these plastic ones that you see in the five four three valve that blow out just like that yeah so these were around in all three you just didn't deal with them too much because dane had these t systems that caused all those errors by the blown out tensioner yeah so they've been around before we knew it so we'll take these two bolts put them off to the side for a reassembly later we can go ahead and get started tension her arm off of here we'll talk we're working around the camera but you get the point you see this one that's pretty bad it wore through the plastic outer layer here to the backing on there and that's because the tensioner was blowing out and it's just beating on it she went into it I think there's lots of miles us one two over two hundred on here so and I kick your chain off comes right off will swap to it and he pulls off to the side go ahead and take these out some of these engines the chain guide is the old style okay and that in that design both the bolts are exactly the same but on your new one which is basically the same parts use them to five four three valve this upper bushing here is thick it's all the way through there it's an improved design so you're going to need a longer bolt for this top one here just like the five four three valves and I'll put the part number down below but basically that's the ones right there you could see them in there much longer than the original ones okay so you need to have that on hand putting new parts in once the passenger-side is off you simply repeat the same procedure on the driver side and get these out attention off the chain like so you can sneak it past this one's blowing out to pull our tensioner arm off of here watch out screen full wheel on the backside there get mister chain off of here and then I'll pull the crankshaft sprocket off too and then we'll zip off this guide right here also the lower bolt is longer and the upper is the shorty well what do you guys think not so bad right I mean once you get the covers off these engines and you get in here and you start bolting all the timing components they can be off in the matter of minutes you know at this point we're going to start the tedious task of cleaning up all these gasket surfaces for the front cover the front car bolts up to it with the head and the engine block and the belt covers want to clean all surfaces are nice and clean get your gobs of sealant out of here make sure all these cavities in the block and everything in the head here all cleaned on some compressed air before going back together what I do is I stuff up to rags wrapped together down here and it's crevice to keep all debris out of the oil pan while we're cleaning up here and in on this vehicle we're also changing the oil pump which I highly recommend any time you're in this far into the engine now I'm going to be installing the Melling m1 76 pump it's a standard pressure standard volume which is all these engines need but it'll be all new from Melling okay the procedure is exactly the same as the five four three valve not a whole video on that how to do that in detail in vehicle normally you have to pull the pan to do it but I have a trick to do it without pool in the pan so I'll link to that video down below and you can change the oil pump in yours if you're so inclined so let's go ahead and change those components out and clean everything up so we can start building the engine back up all right now with everything all cleaned up as you can see here our new oil pump installed everything's good to go our crankshaft still at 12 o'clock we can go ahead and we can start pre positioning the camshafts for timing okay now the way you do this is that you loosen these two bolts just enough couple turns one two turns so that it'll still hold the camshaft but we can turn it and we're gonna use a tool like this right here it kind of sticks into there and we can turn it and make sure our timing marks the passenger side is at 11 o'clock and on the driver's side our our mark should be at the 12 o'clock okay and that'll get it closed so that we can start attaching all the timing components and then we lay the chain we'll make sure it lines up and into that correct mark on there to line up with that so let's go ahead and do that so mine are loosen just enough I'll show you how it looks on here it's pretty simple I figure I'd show you guys because it's a critical step and this is like this is totally different than the regular three valve stuff that I'm used to doing day-in day-out they basically line up on there and then with our crankshaft at 12 o'clock almost positive I don't quote me on it but I'm almost positive that all the pistons are below deck okay which means no matter how much you turn the camshaft at this point and actuate valves they cannot touch any of the pistons in there there's a certain sweet spot and every one of these engines where all the pistons are below deck and it's safe to turn the camshafts and I think on this one at 12 o'clock it is and that's the reason why Ford has us doing it now before we start timing the engine so what we're gonna do is we're simply gonna you know turn it with our positioning tool and get it as close as possible to our mark where it should be so I'd say it's still a little too far off we'll be closer to 11 on here so if this is 12 right here sure that's 11 so that's pretty close right there we can go ahead and we can clamp this back down and be ready for timing and then of course once the passenger-side is set you can do the same exact procedure to set the driver's side the driver's side of course needs to be at the 12 o'clock position which is straight up all right now with these cams in position we're all good to go we're ready to start timing the engine we need to set the crank in the proper position which is number one TDC so what you do at this point is you go counter clockwise until this tool right here fits into that key way right there okay so it has a spline on it for the crankshaft and then it'll lock right into the block right there so you turn it counter clockwise until it happens so basically this key way right here which is at 12 right now should be right around the 11 o'clock position and then it'll all line up very very important make sure you only go counterclockwise at this point so again we're just gonna do it by hand and get it right about there see we're a little too far so we'll go a little bit more and it's trial and error right there pull up just a little bit whatever you need to do up or down to make it fit there we go see see how that works we'll bring you in close down here so you guys can see how it should look right there so we turned the crankshaft counterclockwise okay to about the 11 o'clock position and this would drift key right here and then that splines up in the tool lines right up to this alignment dial in the block it should be just like this slide right on that sets the crank at number 1 TDC in a course we just set the cams in position and now we can start building up the timing components we're gonna install the upper guide on the passenger side first remember our new bolt you bought goes over here at the top and then I'll accommodate the new design get these in by hand there we go and then a small one the old small one goes in down here again you want to do it by hand shred it in my hand and I'll just snug them down at first like so and then we'll do the same the driver's-side bottom bolt is longer that goes through the oil pump down here there's a hole fort right there again make sure you thread it by hand and then this one up here will line up perfectly a couple of threads by hand make sure we're in there you can go ahead and snug them down get it in position okay and that twisting you saw huh twist it into place that is perfectly normal so don't think there's something bound up or wrong when a twist back into place when you tighten it down that's the way it should be [Music] and then we're going to torque these down to 89 inch pounds get these snug and torch so they don't back out and then you're gonna do the same exact thing on the other side on the passenger side guide we just installed same thing 89 inch pounds on both bolts they'll get those set at this point we're gonna start timing the engine our crankshaft is in the proper position with the tool down there we torque down our guides we pre-positioned the cam shaft sprockets not at this point we can start laying the chain and it's really nice about this is that it's a colored link system okay card link car link so you cannot mess it up okay so we're going to do is where I take our crankshaft sprocket we're gonna line the color link the single colored link you see it right there blue one with the dot we're gonna hold them together and then we're gonna lay the chain so we'll keep it on there just like so make sure it's still aligned simply splines up with the crank and then we'll start laying the chain around the sprocket here okay and it's gonna be pretty tight and they can kind of see where you're at on here how far off you are okay what you want to do is make sure everything down here is nice and tight we're still alive at that tight tight tight tight tight this is a slack side this is the tight side which make sure it's tight poly up and then you start spline again with this rocket as you can see with positioning on here or actually a few teeth off okay so we're going to turn this back to line up with our chains on here so everything lines up just right so again we're going to loosen the bolts on the camshaft holder just a turn or two okay and then we're going to turn our camshaft sprocket until we get to the approximate position so we'll take it off here at first so we don't turn anything down below see it's nice and tight and then we'll turn it back [Music] well I lose that just enough something moves like that right there now let's see if this is all right so right there we're aligned but you see your slack on this side so we're going to do is we're going to turn it left so we pull that slack out of it and then we'll tighten the tool again make sure it's snug doesn't pop back on us yeah you can see it's kind of pain to do it this way but this is the official for procedure all right there you go so down below here we're still lined up we pulled tension on this side we wrapped around we're spanning the timing mark with our two blue links and all our slack is over here okay so looking good this point again.what like I said before the the color links lining up with the marks is the most important and that your your pulled tight on this side everything else can kind of just be where it's at no big deal as long as these marks are lined up with the chain we're good to go it's that simple so it's kind of foolproof go ahead and tighten these and they can't hold them tools it doesn't cause any problems go everything looks good wrap around tight and then we'll go ahead and install our tensioner arm and the one that goes on the driver's side has this little eared way you see ie right there that one has the ear to it the other one doesn't so this one goes on the driver side so we'll simply put it on just like so kind of Center in the chain okay and then for this build the customer requested we use the old-style cast iron tensioners that our ratcheting which is always a good idea and these ones are from Melling so they're really high quality we're gonna finish on there you know these do work on these engines even these newer ones so you simply slip it into the pocket behind here okay it's always a good idea to change your tension there's no matter how they look these tensioners especially the plastic ones are what caused all the problems in the timing system all the noises on your engine all that stuff so you want to change them whenever you're in here no matter what so will snug these down at first okay make sure we're still setting it centered in that pocket the plunger coming out of here okay chain centered all that good stuff you can go ahead and pull the grenade pin like that and I'll keep punching out for us and then we'll torque down these two bolts for the tensioner no matter if it's plastic or cast-iron we're going to torque them down to 18 foot pounds so I'll set these and now I'll recheck them so we know we're good to go now once the driver's-side is fully timed as we just showed in detail you want to repeat the same exact procedure on the passenger side so it looks a little something like this now if I didn't mention it already these timing chain tensioners are different side to side so the passenger side gets the art and the driver's side it gets the L now once everything is timed what you want to do is go over everything and do a post check on here make sure everything's lined up centered torque down grenade pins are removed all that good stuff before you just start buttoning up the engine once again so we'll go over this one real quick so you guys can see exactly how your should look so you can kind of refer back and forth and make sure things right and tight so we'll start over here at the passenger side cam sprocket you can see we're lined up on there their marks come down around or Center in our tensioner guide arm we have the right hand tensioner on this side with our bolts torque to 18 foot pounds and the grenade pin removed we're centered in the guide center the guide and then you come down here wrap around the crankshaft sprocket you can see we're lined up the blue link with the time mark we come up and around and there's no slack on this side at all going up now the same thing the driver's side okay I'll get you in here you can see the marks are lined up come down we're centered in the tensioner guide arm we are bolts torqued pin removed and we're centered in that pocket right there it's very important you come down wrapped around and usually with a camera like this or a mirror you can see we're line up with the dot and then we go up no slack on this side at all and everything just lines up so that right there was the entire fort approved timing procedure for the 5.4 liter 2 valve Windsor engine and as you can see I mean everything turned out just perfect on here everything looks really nice and clean nice and new time perfectly good for an arm 52 hour thousand miles the only part of it I didn't like it's all fidgety with the cam sprocket on here loosening the cam holding tool moving a little bit trying to align it move a little bit loosening and tightening it all that good stuff just to get it aligned down here the way that I do it the only change that I make to the Ford approved procedure is once the valve covers are off I come right in here and I start removing all these roller followers with the removal tool get them out of here now what that does is it actually frees up the cam and closes all the valves that way there's no chance of the valves accidentally hitting the Pistons or you being out of I'm and hitting the Pistons or anything like that and with them out of there with them close there's no chance of them hitting right so you could turn the crankshaft wherever you want you can turn these wherever you want when you're timing it by hand to get everything aligned perfectly it's much much easier and actually safer so that is an option out there for you guys if you don't want to deal with that holding tool and everything else now there also is options out there are options out there for the budget conscious you know do-it-yourselfer owner of the vehicle or a technician just starting out or whatever you can time this engine without all those special tools that I showed you okay let's start off down here at the crankshaft remember we use that special holding tool that a liner tool that aligns the crankshaft to that nub and the block okay what you can do is turn the crankshaft and align it to the pan so you see right here the eleven o'clock position of the keyway that's a little hard to gauge whereas a tummy mark right there in the bottom is supposed to be at the six o'clock position well the pans right there it's pretty easy to gauge right around the six o'clock position the saving grace for this engine is you get that close right set the crankshaft well it's a colored link system so once the links are lined up and it all this is pulled tight on this side or wrapped around and then lined up here same thing with this side you're pulling it tight tight tight tight and we're lined up the links are actually time the engine and make sure everything's in time and correctly so that's your saving grace now the other option up here if you're not removing the followers and you want to keep everything in there you again can use a vice grips on the camshaft right in here like we did earlier with the camshaft holding tool you can use that instead of the holding tool then as far as turning this this camshaft sprocket right here if you are using the vice grips to hold it and keep everything in here what you can do is use this special tool right here you see this yeah it's a standard 3 H drive there's actually a little pocket inside of here and it locks right in there regular 3 H drive so you can get in there and just turn it and move it as needed to line up the marks on there okay so there are options out there and even I think there's other 5/4 2 valves that use a bolt in the front they're not pressed on sprockets well there's a bolt on the front so you can just use a regular socket and a ratchet to turn those ok so there are options out there in case you don't want to purchase all federal tools but I will link to the cheaper versions of those special tools you know down below in the video description so you guys aren't lost and you have everything on hand in case you use when I play it safe and use the special tools real quick real important tip here when you go to install your front cover you got it all cleaned up your noose and your gas gets in late in here and it's good to go you're ready to get it in there well make sure make sure you put the your tone ring back on don't forget your tone ring you're gonna be cursing you're gonna be so mad at yourself you put up in bed together and forget that tone ring so slide it back on the crankshaft you can see it keys in right there one way and also very important make sure you can see those words right there front make sure you can read the words front because there isn't orientation to this tone ring and that'll make sure that's on there good to go now when you're installing the front cover and even the valve covers need to add extra sealant at the T joints so here there right there there you want to seal it right there sealant glob there down here at the pan where it meets here coming up same thing over here and same thing right there now once the cover is on its torqued down and all that stuff which again I'll have all information down below link to you guys so you know exactly how to do it once that's on and you start putting a valve covers arm same thing engine sealant glob where let's show you on this sides a little clearer we're the front cover it bolts a block this joint right here glob and then here glob once the front covers on and then you can lay down the valve covers and they'll seal them up now once everything has been double and triple-checked let's look it's all back together oil is back in there coolant if you drained it all that good stuff well knee the crankshaft sensor disconnected and then we're gonna come over here and we're gonna crank the engine until he get some oil pressure over here there it is now once it pops up like that that just means there's you know 10 psi or so in there so you Mikey cranking another 5 seconds after that start building pressure in there after that you can come over here under the vehicle and reconnect that crankshaft position sensor once connected we can go ahead and fire the engine take a listen make sure it sounds right and then we'll shut it down and check the oil level [Music] [Applause] sounds good just a little noise to the power steering let it run for five ten seconds and then we'll recheck that oil there you have it that is how you time the 5.4 liter 2 valve a Windsor engine now like I said the inside is all the same throughout the model years kind of time it all that good stuff it's on the outside all the stuff it takes to get to the inside of the engine that then is gonna change depending on the model you're working on and a year you're working on so that's why I didn't include that information in this video but the timing part is the most critical of one that most people need help with speaking of I hope to talk to you fix your ford yourself see you next time guys

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 283,732

Rating: 4.8759689 out of 5

Keywords: FordTechMakuloco, ford, fix, problem, repair

Id: 4Va5CmtrMjo

Length: 41min 4sec (2464 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 01 2019