Ford 8.8" 9.75" 10.25" Rear Differential Service: Fluid Change Procedure

[Music] hello and welcome back to the shop today we're going to go over another critical maintenance item on your Ford truck and that is the rear differential think about whenever you're going down the road this thing is rotating being worked all on your vehicle and all the weight in the bed and towing whatever you're towing down the road okay and it's only air-cool so if you're towing a lot or you're hauling a lot in the bed I recommend changing the fluid in here every 30,000 miles now if you're just putting around town not really hauling much you can push the 60,000 no sweat okay now we're gonna do today is we're gonna show you the full procedure to change out the fluid in here that includes removing the rear differential cover and doing a full wipe out especially the sub the sump right here that's where all the debris sits and a lot of fluid actually so we're gonna get all that out of that we're gonna start off fresh with a new fluid let's get to it all right first things first we're gonna get anything out of the way that's in the way of these bolts right here that hold the rear pumpkin cover on so on this model there's only ABS wiring so let's kind of pull these the way some of them there's brackets for like brake lines and stuff like that just fit depends on your model and year so like this one right here there's your brake line right here and a bracket very very common we're going to do is we're gonna keep it in the bracket and we're just gonna kind of get it up and out of the way something like that and that's that's plenty right there to allow us to get it on there going back together without disturbing the sealant okay so at this point if there's a lot of dirt around the outside you might want to take an air wand around the outside before you open it up but otherwise we're gonna take all these bolts out and almost always they're half-inch they're not 13 mil okay so that might save you some times they do round off and have issues if you use an impact and stuff like that so it's 1/2 inch now what I do is I'll take one at the top up here we first start off and we'll just leave it in there okay a couple threads and they proceeded to take the rest of them out like so and if you do have studs in these certain locations like this you want to note them just jump around a little bit [Music] alright make sure that you have a nice drain bucket right underneath that centered right here because when this thing pops it's gonna be a waterfall coming out of there okay now once all the bolts are out and the top ones loose but still in we can come in from the side here with our putty knife at the angle right there tip and we'll break in it we'll get it started and then we'll work it along here and usually down and around up until about here on both sides and then you can just simply pry it and it should pop and it'll come right out of there so that looks a little something like this very edge in there make sure you get in there as straight as possible otherwise you're going to start gouging the housing you don't want to do that right now I mean it's housing is pre thick this actual flange I mean so here it this one is actually gonna pop on us make sure when the buckets ready son though you gotta go all the way around now a lot of times you can just go like this there we go holy cows a lot real quick and now you see why you keep that top bolt in on there because it's gonna hold the cover for us while we're concentrating and not making a mess down here now once it pops like that then we're draining pullo our top bolts out if we can just concentrate holding the cover and it should come right out like that all right now once the initial drain has happened we're gonna go inside here and wipe all this stuff down the best we can basically all this stuff just drains off as it sits but down here and the nose of the differential and right here there's a good sized sump okay so we're gonna get in there we're gonna get all the fluid out initially it's gonna push it out of there and then we'll start wiping down the case itself inside this is the all-important area right here is this very very important concentrate in this area if there's any debris in here any kind of shavings any fine metal shavings from break-in it's all gonna settle right here right here okay so we got to really make sure we clean this out to make this whole differential fluid change worthwhile okay now at this point we're gonna let the rest of the differential components like the tubes that might leak into it a little bit other nose might come down and leak in this sump the gears might drip off excess of fluid in the meantime well that's doing that we can do is start cleaning the outside of the pumpkin hair so we're going to do is we're going to use an abrasive disc to clean it cleans it nice and fast real nice but it leaves a lot of debris so you don't want that getting into your bearings and your gears in here so we're going to do is we're gonna coat will cover the differential in here we should be able to tuck it on the outside of the cap here for the bearing retainer stuff like that let's use a couple of nice rags in here and we'll get it all protected and we'll keep it clean that way like that it usually takes about four or five rags and I'll tuck in up here so the housing on the inside doesn't get full of grit either this will keep everything out while we're cleaning the flange actually what I do is this I'll try to tuck it in here again and wedge it like so against the cap and we'll drape it down like that and then we'll tuck it in down below here oh yeah something like that and also in the end here we're going to do another wipeout of the case after the rest of it drips down to the sump but in the meantime we can get this all cleaned up and ready to go back together that looks pretty good actually now the outside here it's gonna have a lot of excessive you know sealant as you can see here it's just coming up so before you ever get that grinding disc over here that will set that cookie to clean this I like to get the bulk of this off makes the other part of it much much faster get the bulk of it off like that and you can see now no matter what kind of cleaning method you use you're gonna put a lot of debris into that case if we don't cover it so all right here we go now the idea here is this disc is spinning that away so it's gonna fling stuff that way so you wanting to work this way same thing it's flicking flicking flicking and the same thing down here flicking flicking flicking away from the center of the diff and you're going to watch these rags too [Music] now once the ceiling surface is all cleaned up like this what we're gonna do next is clean out each one of these bolt holes with some compressed air any kind of sealant and other stuff out of there so that they're nice and clean going back together once that's done we can take some break clean on a rag and go around the outside here and wipe it down to three times make sure it's nice and clean from new sealant and then we're gonna repeat that procedure for the rear cover here so we get a nice and clean same thing grinding disc and some brake clean so it's ready for the new sealant all right now go back together once everything is cleaned out on the inside including the sump right here all your rags are out we clean the bolt holes out already and we also clean the flange the sealing flange here three four times with some brake clean to get all that residue off of there and get it ready for the new cover and sealant same thing applies to the cover make sure you clean it a good couple times and then you want to apply the sealant just as you see here we're gonna go out on the inboard side of each one of those bolt holes one continuous bead the best you can and then we're going to simply apply it right on to there we're gonna Center as best we can right off the bat you don't want to smear the sealant you want to leave it in the bead like that until it gets on to there and then it'll smear and settle itself so this is the part where you want to concentrate on having your bolts ready to go okay but also lining up these holes everything's out of there everything's clean everything it's good to go something you kind of see them down here something like that now this is gonna be almost slippery feeling but this sealant down here so what you want to do is just get a few bolts in here hold it so it's not smearing around on you okay and that'll be a perfect job that way now if I didn't mention it already you want to use the gear oil version the gasket maker from Permatex it's made to resist and not break down in the presence of the gear oil in here so that's what I use one continuous bead about the size of the tube there how it comes out and you'll be good to go you'll see the squash on here be just enough it'll stick out just enough on there and of course since we centered the bee the best we can it's going to squish out the same on the inside and not fall off on us no chunks of ceiling should fall off now in this situation I did not mark where my little studs go so guess what where do they go right it's pretty simple so we'll do studs next yours may or may not have studs so it just depends we'll get those in before we start tightening this down this was another stud put it in there you know right here there we go now a torque spec on these cover bolts is around 35 foot pounds for every model year so no matter what 35 foot pounds will get you there don't work it down properly and there's no torque sequence you just kind of want to you know jump around and make it even so a first person gets snug with this like so that squish and that is what you want to see this little bit of squish out all the way around nice and even now don't be tempted to actually wipe this stuff off you may pull out some of the sealant that's in the flange they're sealing it let it go let it dry right everything looks like it's nice and snug and we can go ahead and start torquing it down same thing just jump around it's very important that you torque these down you don't over torque them you don't under torque them now once the cover is all torque down we can go ahead and just put our harness or our brackets back into place you just simply push on no big deal and that'll finish the back end here we're gonna let it dry for at least an hour according to Ford but of course you know if you can you want to let this sit and cure overnight now the one extra thing that I do while it's tearing like that is I will allow some extra air to come into there so I'll open this fill plug you know pull it out and this will allow it to have a little more air on this side of it and of course the outside so I can cure a little bit faster this way it's a good idea to clean your magnetic plug off of there the tip on there just so it's nice and clean to catch any future metal shavings in there fine metal and I'll stick my finger in here and even clean the threads like to make it as clean as possible going back together now once the sealant has dried on the cover for at least an hour preferably overnight we can go ahead and start filling it up through the fill port right here what you want to use is motor crafts 35 a 140 fluid for all the rear differentials even even if it originally called for 8090 everything changed over the specs changed over to 75 140 so this is the fluid to use now if you have a limited slip differential you want to add one bottle of the limited slip additive that's a friction modifier that's added to it so it slips just right until the frictions heat up and then of course they lock so what you want to do is take your very first bottle of fluid and you're gonna dump the entire contents into there okay you're gonna mix it up a little bit and you're going to pour the entire contents into the differential get it in there first now these differentials in general tape between three and three and a half quarts depending on the size that you're working on so make sure you have enough fluid on hand I always have four quarts ready to go we're gonna fill it until it starts coming out the fill plug here the fill port and then we're gonna let settle until it's level with the threads right here at the bottom now this one is a newer vehicle has a locking electronically locking a differential to clarify electronic locking differentials do not require any limited slip additive okay so don't put any in there if you have a like track locking differential or conventional open differential okay you just need it for limited slip posi differentials with the clutch packs in them now there's a couple ways to fill this you can simply cut the top with a nipple here on the bottle and then tip it and they will just kind of squeeze ease it into there yeah just like that rear-end fluid right or if you're in confined spaces you can use something like this a little pump it does take a lot longer but it works in tight situations whereas most the rear differentials and my experience have been nice and open like this so you just simply tilt it up yep just like that and a lot of times you gotta let the fluid get down to a point just like that and then we'll keep going again until it starts coming out right here it's not coming out that splash back now this fluid is expensive so what you want to do is save the bottle that's it have a little bit left in there and we're gonna add it to that very end bottle so we get it all used up this is really quick as long as you don't go too fast this is what - it's our second full bottle of getting in here again you want to wait allow it to travel down just like that go up there next one here we go now the reason why I'm showing this whole procedure that sounds disgusting the reason why I'm showing is whole procedure is so that we can show how it really really looks when the fluid is full and coming out right here it's not full we're at about three there okay we're leaving something in the bottle that's just the way it's gonna be this is a 975 we're working on so right here we have a half a bottle of fluid and we're gonna see if we can get to come out generally it's around three and a half for these a ten and a quarter maybe four easy okay fluids right there so we're going to do is we're going to take all these bottles we're going to dump them into one stuff is expensive it's like 20-some dollars a bottle super expensive that's why it's nice to be able to do stuff like this yourself save on the labor cost because the fluids freakin expensive enough in a shop you know they're not gonna discount for you they're gonna sell tea for retail on your repair order they gotta make a profit too okay so we dumped everything else into here and now we have what 3/4 of a bottle back now that's how much remains in the our bottles oh there it is you see how it's continuously flowing out like that that's it it is full so at this point just let it level out give it a couple seconds to the point where it's not just flowing out at all crazy if we can go ahead and cap it off in the meantime we can grab our fill plug and we're going to put a little bit of thread sealant on there now you guys can't see it it's thread sealant from Permatex around the threads and I'll link to everything down below so you guys are not lost something like that just a little bit around the edge there and we'll be able to seal up the threads now this right here is good to go it's okay at this point to just go ahead and cap it off that's so beautiful that fluid coming out there just awesome nice clean clear now that torque spec on most of these is eighteen foot pounds you can also use a 3/8 ratchet like this grab it further up and set it down here so you decrease your your leverage and tighten it up I like to wipe around get to excess ceilings off schmear it around of course you know that was gonna happen and I like to shoot a real quick with very clean good wiping so it's all dry make sure you get the bottom the pumpkin here so we don't have any false readings for leaks from the cover we just sealed up there we go something like that and make it nice and clean back here all right this point your differential set new fluid you're good for another thirty to sixty thousand miles depending on your usage of the vehicle that's all for now I'll see you next time

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 720,516

Rating: 4.8751564 out of 5

Keywords: FordTechMakuloco, ford, fix, problem, repair, maintenence, gear, oil, differential, service, truck

Id: -LIm-YZ4DUI

Length: 24min 1sec (1441 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 09 2018