Chef Paul Prudhomme's Cajun and Creole classics, Jambalaya & Gumbo

welcome I'm glad you decided to spend some time with me in my pots and pans I'd like to talk to you about Louisiana cookin Louisiana food is two things to me Cajun Creole to completely distinctive things that develop side-by-side over the years Cajun food is is country food and Creole food acidic foods Creole food is a food of the city of New Orleans and the city's had seven flags flown over which means seven countries owned it each time they left someone behind for those people were normally influential people that's why they stayed so they would have big houses with lots of servants the most important person in that house because entertainment is always a part of southern tradition it's a part of business it's just a part of everything that's the south was the cook and the cook would work for a Spanish family that to cook for their tastes did work for a French family that have to cook too for that taste so the idea was that over the years these dishes are parts of this thing that the cook did worked just developed into wonderful dishes of food like shrimp creole and so many other stuff take plane and stuff Mellet on but you can see trends of Spanish and you can see French influence and Italian influence in all these dishes that they taught it to their sons and daughters to become cooks and so that's the way Creole evolved Cajun food is different Cajun food was evolved by the people coming from Nova Scotia into Louisiana and isolating themselves right here in the swamps and the bayous and living off the land and making do with what they had we're here in Acadiana village to give you a feeling of old Louisiana the food and the music was the most important things that the Cajuns had to live every day off of I mean this was our entertaining but this was our life the best cook in the neighborhood was the most important person in a bird and the musicians were what made it work so this is where both of these kitchens are both of these kinds of cooking come from if you came today to Louisiana and look for him it'd be very hard to find because they're all in the homes and not in the restaurants so what we have today and what we're going to talk about you and I is Louisiana cooking which is a combination of Cajun and Creole one of my favorite dishes in the whole world is jambalaya jambalaya is one of those things and that just when you talk about it just makes the juices run in my mouth um it was just exciting to eat and it's so simple it just says jambalaya was used when I was coming up motherhood we didn't have electricity so we didn't have a refrigerator we had an ice box so you put a chunk ice in and about the second or third day that you had leftovers in the box that start to get a little bit funny a little bit tainted it was still good to eat and you had to eat everything cuz there wasn't a lot of food but the mother would take all this stuff out of the icebox and put it all in the pot together it could be anything almost anything that you can imagine she would put in a jambalaya there was one thing that was in every one of them and it was some kind of smoked meat she'd put sausage in it or she'd put some kind of ham in it but the thing that made jambalaya distinctive is that it was a rice dish and it was just incredibly hot I love to eat hot I mean till it makes your scalp itch and makes you sweat you know and it just makes you just really excited about eating but we would take she'd take whatever leftovers we had put it in a pot bring it up make a good strong juice with it and then put rice in and cook it and the rice would make it bland out just wonderful tasting and the rice was had a lot of flavor and that's to me when I think of jambalaya what is you to put anything is that matter can be seafood it can be pork is new chicken but what we have for you today and what we'd like to show you how to cook there's a chicken jambalaya and it has sausage Enic which we call our dough in Louisiana which means to me a pork smoked sausage and Tasso which is Cajun ham strips of pork that's just intensely seasoned I mean just rolled in herbs and I'm sorry you've olam in spices and sugar and salt then you aged it and smoke it until it's just really reeking with flavor and just overwhelming with a sweetness of smoke and this is Tasso you combine those with rice and a wonderful stock and you have this incredible dish which we call jambalaya which I just happen to have right here with me I love doing this kind of television because you get to eat all the time I mean it's just wonderful you know the word jambalaya comes from three or four different words it jumbo which is the French called hands they call it a jean boat so that's where the Jumbo comes from the the yia yia comes from the african word for rice and i lost you know the Cajuns we always say Allah so it's jambalaya oh you know cooking is a wonderful thing to do and you should be creative you should be yourself when you're cooking and I'm gonna tell you right now that I will never follow a recipe more than a half a time or actually not at all so don't expect me to follow my own recipes when I do this now we're starting out with with a good hot fire and this would be a normal fire at home and butter and onions and we want to take the onions and brown them as you see it's happening here now the reason we browning the onions is to give them dimensions and taste and texture now these onions are actually getting sweet by browning you're taking a sugar out of the onion and you're bringing it to the surface and you're making it brown and I mean this is not like dumping sugar in sweet but this is a kind of sweetness that's going to make an ultimate difference in the taste now we've added to toss out to it and the Tasso is a Cajun ham that has we literally take this ham and we take strips of pork and we roll it in sugar and salt and and peppers and we age it and smoke it and just I mean that this is a highly seasoned a lot of taste ham but we still increasing the taste by our cooking method now we're browning the ham with the onions now anybody who's ever had a piece of ham that's just been sliced off and eaten cold or that's been brown know the difference in the taste when you brown it you just accent the taste of pork I mean you just make it taste wonderful and this is what's happening here now we're adding onions again and we're adding bell pepper and celery which we in Cajun country call the Holy Trinity of Cajun and Creole cooking the onions in bell pepper and celery and we're going to add a little bit of tomato sauce to it now at this step what we've done is taken onions we put them in and we've got the sweetness out of them and now they're getting very soft so we have a taste and a texture the first time we put the onions in we added the Tasso to start the flavor building to start the dehydration of the pork and the Browning of the pork and the collection of the juices on the bottom the pot now we're adding a mixture of herbs and spices into it and the second onions bell pepper and celery and tomatoes and we're going to let this cook together the reasoning behind this is just really simple I'm trying to build the ultimate and taste and I'm trying to build on the bottom of the pan a crust and the crust is going to be a combination of all these juices and the third thing that you that is absolutely necessity to get food to taste the ultimate is to have these taste changes and the texture changes I'm going to add the sausage to it adding the sausage at this point is again bringing another another element into it and we're going to re-add everything another time let's watch for a second in that beautiful now the juices are coming together I mean you can see it coming together they're getting thick and things are browning and just really working this is cut up raw chicken that we're adding to it because there's a chicken jambalaya now you don't want to just put the chicken in we believe I believe that you got to season everything every step it away and you seen put seasoning meat we did the season but when we put vegetables that wasn't seasoned we're added seasoning to it we've put unseasoned chicken and now we're adding seasoning to it now it's time to add the bay leaves it's time to add the garlic and we're approaching the the final steps are we approaching the conclusion of the dish and what I mean by that is the conclusion of the taste not the conclusion of the cooking because we don't want to overcook the chicken that's why we put it in so late we want to let everything else get the maximum of taste a maximum of ability to taste and then add the chicken to it because you want the chicken to stay nice and moist and you don't want to cook it a long time the juice and the chicken the sausage the Tasso and all the vegetables is now going to start collecting on the bottom when you see the smoke coming up from the pan its evaporation is happening when this evaporation happens it leaves a sort of a you can see it there it leaves the things to stick on the bottom they're like little pieces of almost you call them dregs but little pieces of goodness and those things when they Brown they're not only sweet and delicious and a combination thundering combination of taste but they're all so thick I mean they have gelatin in it there's no flour in this is no nothing to make this thick except the juices that are there in the bottom of the pot that is evaporated and left this brown crust and when you leave this brown crust on and you put water or stock in it when it comes up it comes up thick now for the last and final time we're adding onions and bell pepper and celery now we have three times onions in it we have two times bell pepper and celery in it and we have two different kind of tomatoes where tomato sauce now we're adding a fresh tomatoes so you see we've taken this very economical very simple dish that we call jambalaya and we've staged the ingredients we've put them in one at a time and we've gotten the ultimate taste out each one of these ingredients now we're going to bring them together with starch and we're adding rice to it now rice is very very bland so we season the rice a little bit but the real thing that's going to make the rice work and make this a valuable dish is all the juices that we've concentrated and that we've added stock to these juices and brought them up learn that pretty good I can taste it we brought them up and all this is going to get into the rice and then the starch from the rice is going to get into the dish itself and those combinations of bland and seasoning is going to just make this spectacular dish to eat you here it's sticking on the bottom and getting that up from the bottom the final time of getting the ultimate taste out you got to scratch the bottom that's where the goodness is it sticks on the bottom finish adding stock I'm gonna add just a few more Tomatoes to Elsa the onions and bell pepper that we've added to last time still got color to it now we're going to add a few tomatoes so the color will be there then we're going to cover it let it simmer for a few moments and you have jambalaya hot on the heels of black and red fish you know you see God this is good maybe we work with something else and one day I had a prime rib and it had been cooked and then it was leftover from from the previous day and a cut of steak out of that and did the black thing method with and I kind of felt sorry for the rest of the world while I said they're just hauled out on this thing I mean it was so wonderful and which created a whole new method of cooking for us and we call it black and prime rib and what we do is we take the fat cap of a rib and we lift it up and we take a knife and punch holes in the surface at the top of the prime rib they would layer it literally layer it with seasoning then we put the fat cap back on and get an oven just as hot as you can get it seven eight hundred degrees whatever you'll get and put this prime rib in there and it just literally burns the fat off of it and in that method of burning the fat off it drives the seasoning through and the fat is what really has to taste on it so it gets down into those holes you made but it doesn't cook the prime rib it leaves it rare and after after you after the fat has been burned you take it off scrape the seasoning off and cut it in the steaks and then take the steak and do the blackening method with it you get an iron skillet you make it hot when it gets really hot you put the steak and butter on both sides and you sprinkle seasoning on it and then you drop it in that skillet and when you do so it's going to be incredible I mean the smoke is gonna fly you know the fire is gonna flame up and it's just I mean it's just wonderful just to watch it but what happens is when you do that you're going to start evaporating the meat juices from the surface and meat has sugar in it and the sugar is going to start caramelizing and the seasoning is going to start caramelized the butter is going to start caramelizing and you're going to develop this crust and it's going to be a crispy crust and this crust is gonna be kind of sweet it's going to be kind of smoky kind of bitter and in the center to me you can leave it rare medium rare any way you like it I mean this is the first cooking methods that actually makes a piece of meat taste different normally either have a better steak or not as good as staying that's it I mean that's where you get with beef but with this cooking method you start out by roasting it and then you end up by blackening and it's just the most incredible tasting when it just drives me nuts and it just drives me so that's that I got one right here I mean yeah and I'm gonna quit being nuts because I'm gonna take a bite of this see how black it is and that's nice crust on it Oh a little bit of brown garlic butter on Kappa mmm [ __ ] your bad for you oh it's like by him I thought by here for you strictly mmm probably the hardest thing to really have an effect on this beef and especially a roast so what we going to do here is we're gonna do a roasting process that actually has a taste effect on the meat itself I mean it's not a dramatic effect I mean it won't change the whole thing prime roast is but it's going to have that little bit of taste that's going to give you a change and it's going to give you this wonderful width of stuff now what we're doing here is we're punching holes in the top of the prime rib then we're going to add seasoning to it now by doing that something's going to get into holes not a great deal but we're going to put the fat cap back on and when we put the fat cap back on we're going to put in the oven now it's going to take probably a half-hour to 45 minutes in the oven and we want the oven to be as hot as it possibly can be the object of what we're trying to achieve is to burn the fat without cooking the meat and hopefully those holes in there will receive all this wonderful juice that's that's coming from the fat now here see see this brown stuff on top this has been in the oven for about 45 minutes we've taken it out we're pulling all the seasoning off the top cutting the excess fat off because we want to cut it into steaks and here we are cutting it into a steak and you'll see that the inside even though it looks like a prime rib that's been cooked the inside is still absolutely raw I mean it's absolutely raw but it's starting to take on a roast flavor and it's starting to take on the first tensions in taste now we're ready to cook it we're going to put it in butter turn it over we're going to add season code now you need a little more seasoning here than you do with fish or if you do with a thinner piece of meat because this is a thick piece of very strong tasting prime rib I mean you need to put some seasoning on it to have an influence so we're going to coat it a little bit on this side turn it over put some on the other side and then we're going to start the blackening method now the blackening method for this is is just unique this hot pan see the smoke when you can't do it in the house you got to do it outside I mean this this puts out a credible amount of smoke what we want to do is just get that oh let's look at it I love to see it's almost moving what's happening is that you're taking the best parts of the juices of the beef and the seasoning and the butter and making them brown on the surface and you're forming a crust to give you incredible dimensions and taste you see the black starting to form on there now if you take it too far it's gonna be burnt but what you want to do is just black and it not burn it to make it just taste incredible it's almost like it's holding two steak up above the bottom of that cutaway skillet that's Adam from watching that you would think there's nothing you'd possibly want to add to this but let me tell you something brown garlic butter sauce is something that'll just almost raise the taste of anything you put it with and it's a very simple thing to do and it's very quick and you do it at the last minute you take a skillet and you make it hot and it's preferably you make it hard without anything in it just empty and then you add some chunks of whole butter into it and then you just sit there and just sort of stirred which still it takes a few seconds until you start developing a brown spot in the center see that brown spot in the center and it's starting to get brown also on the sides now we're going to add garlic to it and then we're going to add a little bit of parsley to it and then we're going to add a wonderful thing that ties it together our two wonderful things actually and there goes the reduction of the glaze this is a beef glaze and another little piece of butter and little Ian parents and shaking this we actually turn this into a sauce that'll give a steak or a piece of fish or anything you put it with a third and fourth and tech dimension that you can hardly get anywhere else and what you want to do is you want to let this Brown together and you want to let it foam up and rise and you can see how the foams coming up now and it's getting close to being ready I see a that's wonderful color Brown and you can just pour it on top of a steak or you put it in a dish and serve it with dinner it works for roast it works for anything it was just one Gumbo's the most elusive I think that it has it has more meaning to me than anything else that I cooked perhaps jambalaya has almost as much but gumbo really does when when we had problems with not enough food mother made a gumbo when we had too many mouths to feed from company and and the gumbo always made it work because gumbo is a sauce and it's rich and it tastes good and it satisfy you hunger I can remember the times when I was growing up my brothers and sisters were going to the dance they would stop by the house and Saturday night and they would leave off their children mother and I babysat one of the things we always did was fix the pot of gumbo because when they would come home at 2 or 3 o'clock in the morning that would be something for them to eat we had a wood-burning stove we simply just pushed the gumbo in the back of the stove after it was made and it was just spectacular what you have with a gumbo when you talk about cooking it is you have a just spectacular multiple taste that's really unusual especially if you don't know anything about Louisiana food you take flour and oil and you cook it to such an incredibly hot temperature we're talking five six hundred degrees till the flour actually starts to brown then you season that flour and oil by putting onions and bell pepper and celery and mixed herbs and spices into it once that happens you have the start and we always say Louisiana first you make a roux and that is what is the key to the gumbo getting it the right color you're getting it to the right taste the next thing you got to have is you got to need to have a very old chicken or that old duck does hollering over there you got to have either one of those and it got to be old because if it's when it's old it's tough and when it's tough for you got to cook in a long time it makes a wonderful juice if you if you don't have that and if you live in the city you certainly don't have it if you got to have a wonderful stock which is taking bones like you see us doing here taking bones and browning them off really hard until they get good and golden-brown and put them with water bring them to a boil and then let them simmer for hours and hours until you have a wonderful juice to cook with next thing you add is cooking expertise and bell peppers and onions and celery and what comes out is this rich rich tasting wonderful broth it's it's a soup but it's not a soup it doesn't taste like any soup you've ever had it's a gumbo and a gumbo has a special taste to it all of Louisiana food we talked about has a framework of taste and that framework of taste involves in cooking method the brown roux it involves in the seasoning of red pepper white pepper black pepper garlic onions bell pepper celery and the usage of those things and so what we're doing is making a gumbo that tastes like you wouldn't believe now I got some right here but I'm taking I'm gonna get ready for this one I mean I'm gonna just get right into it yes yeah yes you know I like to introduce dishes this way that because it really makes my work hard oh when you it's just it's just amazing to taste what you what happens is the first thing you taste is that dark roux and then as you start to swallow you get different taste the bell pepper the onions that it has have been cooked a long time and it kind of sweet and then you taste the chicken and the chicken comes through really strong then when you swallow you have this wonderful glow in your mouth I mean it's like it's like it's like almost paid but it isn't and it's always fun I mean it's it's pleasure I mean it really is and what happens to that you won't take another bite and I mean that then the chicken comes through again the sausage comes through the smokiness from the sausage um I am gonna quit talking about just eat I think to accent any kind of cooking you do you need a stock now we do it I going to do a chicken stock for you we've taken the chicken bones chicken backs and we browned them off till they golden brown then from this point you can just add water to it now and covered or you can get more taste out of it by adding carrots and you can see we use the peelings of the carrots here we can put celery into it and just use the top so you used to use the bottom the root of the celery that you would ordinarily throw away not use put onions in it the skin of the onion gives it a nice tone in color plus the onion taste you put garlic and you use whole cloves of garlic or you can use garlic leaves or whatever and it's nice to fill the pot up don't put it over for like I just did but you cover this with water and you bring it to a boil and let it simmer now if you want to you can reduce that by not adding water to it and leaving it on a nice simmer and it'll make your gelatin they'll make you a glaze or you can just keep adding water and cook it for 24 hours and get this wonderful taste that'll just make everything you cook so much better just bring it to a ball in light simmer a gumbo is a very emotional thing for me because there are so many times that I remember eating gumbo that are memorable times in my life I'll try to relate some of those to you as we go along but let's get to cooking the first thing we got to do is you got a seasoned and brown the chicken off now it's important to season every step of the way I mean everything you do if you want what you're cooking to have multiple tastes so they have a taste constantly changing as you eat it and with each bite and if you want the last bite to be as good or better than the first one you've got to season every step of the way and this is what you see us doing first we season the checking now we're going to put some on the flour that's going to go and check it now my philosophy is that you don't want to take something that's bland as flour and put it on the on the surface of chicken because you're going to just take away from the taste now it won't make a great deal of difference but the fact is is that if you add seasoning to the flour and you've already seasoned the chicken it'll make a difference to the good in other words they'll make it even just a little bit better and help those tastes change happen you want to heat the oil until it's about 375 degrees because you want it really hot what we're doing here is browning the chicken off you don't want to cook it and don't have to be cooked you want to take it and get it a good golden-brown color you know I remember at times in my life when when I was what I was gone in high school and and my friends and I used to go to my uncle's service station an all-night restaurant in Opelousas Louisiana and I mean one of the things we had was gumbo what is one of the things we could afford because at the time you could get gumbo for a dollar 75 or dollar 50 of a whole bowl and it was 2 or 3 o'clock in the morning you had been out all night with your girl and you know you ran out of mud and you could go over there and just get a big bowl of gumbo for a dollar and a half here we're browning the chicken off and we turn it over you see what you want is that just you putting taste on the chicken by browning it you've given it you put the skin down first into the skillet you get the fat off of the skin into the into the oil but browning it off but you also add dimension to the taste by making the nuttiness of the flower of browning the flower which makes a nutty taste to it and so what we're doing is throughout making this gumbo you'll see us do things to add to the taste now that the most important thing probably in my head to the taste of gumbo is the root and a roux is flour and oil that's cooked at a high temperature until it retains a color let's see what we've done here we brown the chicken off and we left the bottom dregs from brown and chicken all the little pieces of flour and all the fat from the chicken that went into the oil we try to leave that into the bottom of the skillet because we're accenting to taste now we're adding flour to it and we're taking the flour that we used to dip the chicken into seasoned flour and Editors you can see the little seasonings in them and you can see them the red pepper and the black pepper and so on now you see constantly building taste on top of taste at different points to make those tastes just constantly change and to me that's what a great gumbo is now making the roux is an intricate really important part because if you burn this flour and oil if you get it too dark a too black it's going to be bitter and once it's better you can forget it I mean it's gone but it is also the key to the taste of it now when it's a color brown like it is now it's going to have a nutty taste and it's going to have an influence but not as great and it's going to thicken because of the color now when you get a darker Brown it's going to thicken less and it's going to have more of an in a taste influence on it so what I'm saying to you is that this part watch carefully and this part try to duplicate as much as you can and see if we get to see the color just changed now we're getting darker it's almost like a it's kind of like a red Brown now I want to stop the color I want to stop the cooking process so I'm adding onions and bell pepper and celery to it and I've shut off the fire and I'm also going to add now I've got seasoning in it I've got the belt of the season mixture that was in the flour along with the onions and bell pepper and celery now you can just smell this I mean the smell is just awesome now what I've done have taken bland flour and oil that I've already cooked to chicken into it it has a chicken taste and I've combined the taste together to give me a just incredible strong taste to add to my gumbo and I've got the juice of the bell pepper and the juice of the onions and the seasoning in this with the nutty taste of the flour now when I'm going to add this to the stock and you can see how that stock turned out really nice and rich with a little brown color to it now I'm going to start adding the root to it now this Roux has is the only thing that's going to be everywhere it's nice gumbo so yes I add it to it so that starts dissipating in little pieces running all over now as I whisk it it's going to become a part of that juice a part of the stock and that part is going to be in every spoonful so what I've taken is I've taken onions bell pepper and celery I've taken a mixture of herbs and spices and I've taken flour and oil and turned it into the greatest influence in this gumbo I mean the greatest influence it has because it's not everywhere as this boils the flours dissipated and become a part of the gumbo now I want to build the taste of chicken and so I'm adding the chicken that I've browned off to it and the particles that are nuttiness that's on the surface of the chicken and a little bit of seasoning just on the surface is going to also get into the gumbo and add to the taste and see what I'm doing is some building dimensions and taste building stages of taste to it and it's just got to continue now we're going to add the sausage to it or the sausage has a smokiness I mean the smokiness that is going to come in after that after you've taken a bite and you swallow you're going to feel the smokiness in and you're going to feel the pepper in it now we're going to add onions and bell pepper and celery another time now see we've got something that's already cooked into the flour and oil into the root now they're going to have a taste and texture their own we're adding more to it we're adding more onions and bell pepper and celery fresh again to it to give it a crunchiness so to give it that second and third and tenth dimension and taste we're going to add fresh garlic and we've added more and spices to it because right in here I checked it I tasted it and I felt like it needed more seasoning now what do you have to do at this point is bring it to a boil and let it come to a nice rapid simmer now when that happens an oil is going to start forming on the surface now this is the oil that the flour is released when you made the root in other words the flour can only hold so much also it releases them so this is part of making a gumbo you have to stop and skim it and if you let it roll like you see this simmer rolling and then the oil is going to collect on one side of the pan and then you just take it and just scoop it right off and say you have the room that's that's a brown color and you notice that at some point it got started to get black after you put the vegetables in now that's an artificial thing when you see it start to get black because once you put it with the stock you can see how it's still just the rich really nice brown color to it now I'm telling you this is oh I'm going to taste this good this is good all it's got to do now is just simmer it's alive it's wonderful gumbo you can just see all the taste in it me a bowl of potato salad put some rice on it and pour the gumbo to it no Cajun table is complete without its own set of condiments everybody does their own your pickle pepper vinegars you have pepper vinegars you have creole mustard and mustard sauces and it just goes on and on all kind of pepper sauces they're wonderful to add to the food in closing I'd like to say to you that get your own pepper vinegars get your own table condiments when you do in Cajun we appreciate y'all joining us we hope you had a good time and remember if somebody serves you something and it don't taste good it's not Cajun and way No okay cue

Channel: Michael Smalley

Views: 677,568

Rating: 4.9018564 out of 5

Keywords: Jambalaya (Dish), Gumbo (Dish), Paul Prudhomme (Chef), Louisiana Creole Cuisine (Cuisine), Cooking, Recipe

Id: M5XXU47q9js

Length: 36min 48sec (2208 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 10 2015

Reddit Comments

[u/[deleted]]

Rip you savory prince of the kitchen.

[u/cheddacheese148]

This video just answered the question five year old me couldn't: "why is Dom Deluise on that seasoning can?"

[u/THE_CENTURION]

My parents made his Jambalaya all the time when I was a kid. It takes a fair amount of prep, so cooking it became a family affair where we all chipped in. When I moved out it was the first real thing I cooked in the new place.

Still my all time favorite food. It even reheats well. The rice gets all mushy, but it still has all the great flavor.

[u/freetattoo]

I showed this to my 7 year old daughter, and she said "he's a real person?!"

Paul Prudhomme's Meat Magic has been a staple in our kitchen since she was a baby. It's like if I had seen the real Quaker Oats guy when I was a kid.

She then asked me to find a video of Cholula.

[u/moodpecker]

Paul Prudhomme and Burt Reynolds were terrific in Cannonball Run.

[u/JunahCg]

Why am I not in Louisiana? I should be in Louisiana.

[u/myfaceismyshield]

I have to say that I find it tough these days to trust a skinny chef thanks to Paul. Paul didn't enjoy his food, he had a romantic relationship with smells and flavors. You look at that man and see someone who doesn't scream at chefs, he makes creepy moans at a slice of beef on the pan.

No one fucks with a fat chef. They know that he knows what he's doing.

[u/ShadyPear]

https://youtu.be/M5XXU47q9js?t=2081

LOL

[u/sorrydaijin]

The food goes without saying, but I love his cross-section pan.