Bigtreetech Ender 5 Plus Upgrade: Ferrules and TFT35 (Part 2)

[Music] so i think i've about covered this as much as i can this was the intro let's get to work i'm going to start with the mini e3 first we're going to do the upgrade right here i'm going to walk you through that process i have the board schematic that i'm going to show you how i figured out how to transfer those stock wires over to the new board let's get going [Music] so i realized that this video was supposed to begin with the installation of the mini e3 version 2.0 but there's a lot of lead-up material that applies to the installation of either main board so that's what i'm going to be covering in this video so first of all i'm going to talk about the disassembly of the printer how to get everything apart so that you can install the new components then i'm going to talk about the wiring safety for the printer and what we can do to make the wiring even safer than the way it comes from the factory and then i'm going to give you two different options for installing the new display in this chassis so i hope all this information is helpful as you get prepared to install your new main board that's what i'm covering in this video today so let's get started okay so first things first we need to get this box out of here rather than turning the entire printer over we're gonna get this box out of here if you are using the internal power supply the one it came with or a meanwhile add-on you can just remove these cables and then take this off obviously i've got this big external power supply like i showed in one of my other videos and so i'm going to have to remove all the wiring from here and then take off the big box in the bottom to work on it first things first always pull your power cord then you're ready to go let's get this off of here so we can work on it okay now we'll get the bottom off of here okay now when you're lifting this up be very careful this fan is going to still be attached and then that can be pulled off there we go let's set this aside but not too far away because we're going to need it again in a minute all right so here we are with the main components inside of our case now i've already switched out the power supply like i mentioned if your power supply is still in your chassis it'll be right here but none of the setup and none of the change of components will change actually in the chassis because the wires are still all coming in from the same place now this is the main board this is the part we're changing out this is the display this also is going to have to be changed out and then this is the mosfet that powers your main board now this is not going to be changed out this is going to stay the same now as far as the wiring for everything goes the beauty of the way that they have this board set up the color coding everything else is that everything is labeled independently and you don't have to worry about forgetting what goes where because of the colors and or the direct labels there's only one exception on this board these wires here are both thermistor wires and they are not labeled independently and so you'll notice what i did i labeled the bed thermistor with a little label so that i don't get it confused with the hotend thermistor that's the only thing you really need to label now if you want to label everything in here you're welcome to do that to keep things straight but everything else is going to be pretty much the same you notice the hot end wires are both red the heated bed wires come straight off of this so you won't get that confused and the main power wires as you see right here are some of your thickest wires it's a red and black wire doesn't look like anything else due to the gauge of that wire now everything else i will be going through you'll see how i transfer it over to the other main board now i'm going to go and start pulling everything off of here then we're going to talk about ferrules for electrical safety before we put everything back together whether you have the silent board or the board that comes with the printer these boards are going to look exactly the same and everything is going to be plugged into the same spots again these are labeled has an x on it there's a y on it these are both z's as you can see clearly labeled here and here and this is going to be e4 extruder and pull the end stops off with these and they're all labeled as well nothing to worry about the only thing that's going to be different here than the other axes is the z-axis because it is actually attached to the bl touch which is right here and here we're going to pull those off we have this wire here which is our filament run out sensor i'm going to take all of these notice these already all have ends on them that will transfer over to our new main board i'm just going to push that aside because we won't need to do anything to those again these are our thermistors and right here this is our display wire which we're going to lose here in a minute anyway and then these are our two fans this is going to be the always on fan that is going to be for the cooling the hot end and this is going to be the power on fan that is controllable so that we cool the parts when we need to on the print bed so let's talk ferrules all right so first of all this is my feral kit i bought this on amazon of course links down below but you'll see here we've got two things in this kit we actually have the crimper and we have the actual ferrules themselves so what are ferrules well if you notice there are certain types of wires in here that are what are called stranded wires and let me zoom in a little bit here these are called stranded wires and these have been tinned which is not proper uh for what you want in a 3d printer but this is what a lot of 3d printer manufacturers do to keep these wires nice and neat but this is not safe this can cause arcing or shorts it's not really what you want to do these can be crushed incorrectly so what we're going to do is we're actually going to put ferrules on here that basically do what this does but does it correctly so inside each of these wires it is stranded wire meaning that it is not a solid conductor of wire it is actually many many copper wires that run through here so what we can do with ferrules is put them in here and then this creates that nice end that can be crushed safely in those screw terminals so i've got this nice kit what's great about this is it does come with the crimper and it also comes with various size ferrules so that you actually have the proper ferrule for the proper end of wire so what i'm going to have to do here is cut the existing ends off of these wires because again they are tinned improperly i need to pull these off and then re-strip the wires and then i'll show you how to crimp that ferrule onto here okay and so when doing any of these you'll notice that this little card comes with it shows us the proper gauge for each of these i can guess pretty close which gauge these wires are but i may be off a little bit as i'm doing it you'll notice this one's the 14 gauge i think these are probably 14 gauge wires so i'm going to start with the blue see if that's the size that we need so first of all i have my nice cutters and strippers here i'm going to cut these off as close to the end as possible because i don't want to waste any wire i only have so much to work with here and cut the other one off again it should be good as long as i'm cutting off part of the sheathing on these wires hopefully these are roughly the same length now if not again i will grab my straight cutters make sure that they're cut straight okay now i can strip these now the ferrules are going to be i think about eight millimeters each notice i can take this little gauge in here and probably move that up to make my life easier as i'm doing all of these ferrules show you what i'm doing here i've got this little adjustable piece about eight millimeters okay that'll make all these the same all right okay now i can use the right hand so i'm going to push this up against here snip that is nowhere near eight millimeters see it doesn't really cut where you ask it to so that is probably closer to about four millimeters yep so i'm going to have to push that out a little bit further and do the same one again no okay that closer to eight millimeters or too far that's real close i can probably move it up just a tad let's try the other one yeah that's that's a lot better okay so this one this one let's see how the ferrules fit again i'm pretty sure this is 14 gauge so i'm gonna put this on here we'll see if it comes out the end now that looks good so there and here it's actually turned out really good so this is really really easy i'm going to take this i'm going to stick it in here i'm just going to pull down and that was really blurry so we're going to do it again and just squeeze there we go these ferals should be attached if they're not on here good enough if i could pull them off for example then i would just crimp them again in the opposite direction but those look really good now i have much safer wires for this installation i'm going to do this for the rest of them and back out a little bit so you can see what i'm doing but that is the gist of adding ferrules to your printer it's that easy these are relatively inexpensive and your printer is going to be a lot safer when you're done i don't have to pull on these like crazy because again when the screw crushes down on these these will get even more force on them and i think that's it so farrelling done safer printer and now we can move on with removing the main board from the chassis as well as the display from the chassis so that we can bring in our new ones okay here's the display it came with we won't be needing that anymore so we're going to set that aside with our original main board in case we ever need to go back to it now next thing before we go any further make sure you clean out everything that was left in this case so little wires that may have been cut anything that could potentially shorten it out and you'll notice here i've already lost a feral so i'm gonna have to add that one back but i think you see what i'm going with here if there are any pieces of plastic any metal uh get your can of compressed air make sure you blow everything out thoroughly any little piece of metal left could short something out and that would be a real shame for your new main board all right so everything's removed first up let's talk about replacing the display again this is the big tree tech tft 3.5 version 3.0 it's a terrific little display because it does both traditional marlin display that you'll find on a lot of creality a lot of other manufacturers printers really that gives you the nice text display which gives you access to all the features of the printer it also has a terrific touch screen in case you prefer that and using this button you can switch back and forth between them now what's great about this display is you can print this excellent housing that will adapt it to fit this almost perfectly now there is going to be a small modification notice i have already pulled off the wheel here this is going to go right on top of here now keep orientation in mind this is upside down so i'm going to flip this over like this move this out of the way now this these little right here should fit right on top of the screw holes that were in there originally now this should go in here for the most part but what you're going to find out is it doesn't really go in all the way now why is that well turns out this wheel here is actually just barely too big for this side here so we're going to have to do a little dremeling a little cutting a little filing whatever you prefer to get rid of a little bit of metal so that this fits in here correctly now for this board this will be all you have to do and again if you don't want to go through this work if you don't need the touchscreen you can always go with the cr10 like display and mount it on the outside using another mount that i can leave a link to in the description so let's go and get this removed from here i'll show you what it looks like and we'll get this installed first all right here we are got my dremel here now i think this is some sort of diamond tip in fact i'm hoping there is still enough abrasive uh on the outside here anyway you can use any sort of abrasive uh tip that you've got just to cut off a little bit of the metal here a couple of notes number one anytime you're cutting metal safety first make sure you've got some good safety goggles that will protect your eyes from any flying metal debris second of all if there are any electrical components get those off of your work area and that is mainly because we do not want any of these metal shavings that might be coming off of here to actually get into the electrical components obviously we can just blow this back off when we're done since i don't want to have to go through the trouble of taking it all the way out but let's get this done so there we go as you can see there's a little bit of clearance here and then when we put that wheel on you'll never be able to tell that anything was ever shaved off here because it'll be covered up makes a really really nice look particularly if you get a good finish on your plastic here as you can see mine's quite shiny i was able to do this on the glass bed and it fits in here really well so i'm going to turn this back over and add the screws back that we're originally holding the screen in okay now that's set to fit let's get the screen installed and our mounting bracket first of all let's go ahead and pull off display protector now at this point we're going to have to be really careful we don't want to scratch this up at all so we're going to need to put this on here notice it only goes on one way there's a place for a reset button and a place for our buzzer that goes straight in here now i've got some m3 by six millimeter screws that will mount the display to the bracket i've already pre-tapped these by putting the screws in here once it really makes it a lot easier to get these screws in here rather than trying to do it when you're mounting it there we go looks nice and then this will pop in here notice it has the four mounting holes from our original lcd and pop that right in here push it down all the way each of the four corners and it will snap into place now we should be able to take the original mounting screws and get everything tightened down now if you're going to be flashing the lcd a lot we may want to relocate this power switch but if that's not going to be something you're going to be doing regularly then this isn't going to be a big deal i may tackle this later remove this power switch get it away from this board for now i'm going to leave it as is and we'll see how it works okay all four corners down well let's take a look at what it looks like all right wiring out of the way there you see it is nice and flush with the front panel looks really nice you know nice a couple of fingerprints now we can grab our toggle wheel that pushed down really good and like i said you can't ever tell that this was not part of the original design other than possibly just a little bit of plastic but the print's nice looks really good now we can move on to installing our main board when i was working on this i went ahead and posted some pictures of my progress on twitter and 3d print beginner mentioned that there was another option for the display that would also allow me to keep this usb and keep this sd card accessible instead of hiding it in the chassis so i thought i would show you that option as well as kind of a bonus part of this video you'll have both options either the flush one that i showed you before or this one that's going to stick out a bit but anyway let's go through the motions here so first of all this is 3d print beginner's plate that he made for this printer and this is pretty easy all we're going to do is attach that onto these screws here and then this distance here will make it where we can mount the new box to it now one thing i know is that i'm going to want to mount this just like this and then the lid of this box is going to go on like this okay now this thing's designed for m3s in certain places and m two and a half's in other places well unfortunately i don't have any m two and a halfs right now i did order some so i could possibly redo this later but all it's going to take to make sure everything is tapped correctly for m3s since m3s will technically fit through the corners of this board will be to tap out some of these holes as i go so i've got my m3 tap here and i'm going to tap these holes right here for m3s they're already pretty much m3s anyway this just makes them cleaner make make it go in easier all right so now that is tapped it is ready to be installed right oh i'm going to get this backwards right back here and while we're tapping so this is my top part of my box excuse me the bottom part of the box that goes on top of this and i'm going to go ahead and tap these which were the two and a half millimeter holes to m3s now with this i have to be really careful these holes do not go all the way through and i really don't want to break through not that you'd really be able to see it but i'm only going to tap part of the way through [Music] okay pull off that extra bits of plastic there that actually didn't get all the way through those to those threads that are on here unfortunately this is meant to go all the way through but it should still give me a good m3 hole to start off with i've got another tap set if i need it i think it'll be all right we'll find out soon enough that should be everything now let's go ahead and get this installed using the original screws that came with the chassis now that that's mounted i should be ready to flip this over and attach the base okay flipped over now for the next part we're going to mount this box on here you'll notice that the cutouts match so i'm going to take these i think these are just m38s here that should have no problems lining up with the holes here and my tap actually looks really good there i'm gonna grab another m38 okay i'm gonna be careful how much i tighten these down because i don't wanna strip the plastic just want to make sure they're tight okay notice that's on here real snug and one thing i'm really happy about you remember i made that cut out on this side for that other display mount and this one covers it up nicely so now we can put on our display and notice these are going to line up with the holes down here and it still leaves these open here now for the wiring this skr 1.4 is actually going to take two cables and i have pre-labeled my cables on one end i have pre-labeled my cables one and two i'm going to go and plug those in here so that i don't lose track of these numbers and so here we go this one's keyed so at exp1 i've got marked with a one which i actually want this the other way so that i can read it on the other end now there is one and this one is mark two so i'm going to plug that one in here and there we go one and two are labeled so that i don't lose track i'm going to put those through and again you could wait if you know where these are if you want to find the numbers later but i think this is going to save you some time we can also go ahead and plug in our serial cable which goes right down here in this plug okay again the reset plug on here is going to be the one with dots on it the 5 volt has no markings let's push that through also there we are now this should go right in here without any problems we should line up our holes all right and then we have this cover which goes on top of here i may go ahead and clean off this display a little bit i have a microfiber cloth to clean that up just because i don't want any fingerprints underneath the edge here i'm going to try not to touch it we'll see how that goes this display goes right here i've already played with this a little bit and i know for a fact it's easier to put this on the top part and then lower it into the other one because it really is a good tight fit that's how what how good that looks and that fits right there now you can see the camera and me talking now there's also this plate here which is going to go right here and like i said i'm going to use some m3 screws to tighten this down and it's going to look a little bit different than they had planned but i think it will still look nice so i think these are m312s i believe and they should just be long enough before i tighten that down let's go and get all of these in now these are going to be held down this plate is also going to be held down with these so i think these are m320s because they need to be a little bit longer and then i'm going to just line everything up with my thumb and finger okay so there we go as you can see this fits snug covers up the hole nice now it's going to be arguable which one you like the look of better whether this one or the flush one but you cannot argue that this one is more functional because now on this side i've got my sd card which you can actually wire up to be your sd card slot for your skr 1.4 and you also have your usb drive on this side as well so definitely a more functional mount i like look of it let's go and put this on and just as functional as the other one in terms of how the screen is used and if you need to use your reset you're not going to accidentally press it on this one you'll just need something to press it for you so i like the look of this one i do like how functional it is and 3d print beginner i appreciate you pointing me at this one so now you have your new display installed and you're ready for the installation of your new main board so in the next video i'm going to cover a detailed installation of the mini e3 version 2.0 and then the following video i'll cover the installation of the v 1.4 turbo depending on which board you're choosing to go with and then following that i will give you my analysis of both of the options including test prints so that i can give you my opinion of which board either performs the best or whether they perform pretty much on par so as always thanks for watching this video series and if you've enjoyed this video in particular hit that like button down below if you would like to catch the future parts of this video series and future videos that i put out go ahead and subscribe hit the bell icon so that you receive notifications if you want to support this channel i have both paypal and patreon down below again thanks for watching this has been kersey fabrications see you next time [Music] you

Channel: Kersey Fabrications

Views: 20,458

Keywords: 3d printer ferrule, bigtreetech skr mini e3, bigtreetech skr mini e3 v2.0, bigtreetech skr v1.4, bigtreetech skr v1.4 turbo, bigtreetech tft35 v3.0, btt tft35 v3.0, creality ender 5 plus, ender 5 plus, ender 5 plus 3d printer, ender 5 plus silent board, ender 5 plus skr 1.4, ender 5 plus skr 1.4 turbo firmware, ender 5 plus skr board, ender 5 plus skr mini, ender 5 plus skr mini e3, ender 5 plus upgrades, kersey fabrications, skr1.4 turbo, tft35 v3.0, tft35 v3.0 marlin

Id: l7mxGVF-QGE

Length: 29min 48sec (1788 seconds)

Published: Wed Jul 08 2020