Bigtreetech Ender 5 Plus Upgrade: SKR Mini E3 V2.0 (Part 3)

[Music] so now you have your new display installed and you're ready for the installation of your new mainboard so in the next video I'm going to cover a detailed installation of the mini III version 2.0 [Music] okay so here we are with our big tree tech SK our mini iii-v 2.0 now there's not a whole lot to configure on this board in fact the only thing we have are these four diag pins that we can use for sensorless homing they came with the bag if we were going to use cents for this home we would take one of these jumpers and put them on any of the access that we were going to use that on but on the ender five-plus we don't need it and I don't recommend it because we actually have n stops so why even fiddle with it so the only thing we're going to have to do on this as you saw in the bag it does come with heat sinks for our four stepper drivers and this board is really nice they've added a lot of room around the stepper drivers so that you don't short anything out when putting these on and so that they have extra room for cooling so let's go ahead and throw those on here our orientation doesn't matter here too much I generally put the heatsink side-to-side like this just because I think it's a better cooling flow because there's less components in the way to hit with the airflow for example if we were to put them the other way it could hit the wires that are coming out of here so I think that this is a better orientation these on here as much as you can as they heat up and cool down this will actually stick better over time than what it is right out of the box okay there we go now we can mount this in the chassis just line up the board the way the original was lined up here is the SD card and the USB port there should be four screws total one two three four anytime you're installing a board you want to make sure that you count the posts first so that you don't short out the board by not installing it correctly there we go notice everything is nice and snug in here now let's look at wiring like I said I want to teach you a little bit more about how to read the wiring schematic so let's look at that first and then we'll move on to actually installing the wires and the right locations alright let's spend a minute talking about the pinout diagram for this board because I not only want to show you where to plug things in but I want to teach you how to read this pin out a bit so that you know how I figured this out myself so first of all this is the pin out diagram for the SK our mini iii-v 2.0 this is available on Big Tree Tech's github site and what we're going to be looking at primarily are these kinds of markings that show where certain pins are attached now these are real simple up here this is my ex motor Y motor I have my dual z motors and I have my extruder motor now there are other things as we go around you'll see that are labeled with different types of markings that you'll probably be able to figure out in terms of what it means for a 3d printer this swd which is right here in the middle of the board this is just a software diagnostic we're not going to be using that this is where we're going to plug in our main power so we have our 12 or 24 volt and we have our ground pen so any time we're talking power we're almost always going to be talking about red for the 12 or 24 volts and black for the ground now this right here is should be directly connected to these pins and so we can use this for anything else that's going to need direct power to it full time as long as the board is powered up so I'm going to use this for one of the always-on fans next up we have the bed power notice I have 12 24 volts anything labeled like this this PC 9 this means that it's connected to a pin of our processor now in order for this circuit to be completed we are obviously going to need a ground pin so this is going to change depending on whether we're turning the hot that on or off again we have hot end 0 which is he0 same sort of dil here next up we have our TFT this is going to be for the touch screen part of our display this is the pin out it is a 5 volt pin out here's a ground pin and we have a reset pin transmit and receive pins now this comes with two controllable fan outs now these correspond to fan 0 and fan 1 right here notice this is a 12 24 and this is going to be connect to the processor so that we can tell it when to turn on or off this is a power supply on detector we're not going to be using this today but we may use it in the future we have our 3 in stops XY and Z we have our PE Det this is again not going to be used this is going to be used in conjunction with some sort of power monitoring or power interruption detection we have thb this is our thermistor for our bed we have th0 which are thermistor for our hot and 0 and this e 0 stop this is the filament detection that is going to be for easy row so we're going to plug in our filament detector again we have 5 volt which is going to usually be some sort of red pin we have ground which is going to be some sort of black pin and then we have a signal pin which could be almost any other color I believe for our filament detection we're going to be looking at a yellow pin here we'll double-check that here in a minute this expansion port here is going to be for our text terminal that's going to be connected to our display we have Z probe now this Z probe right here is going to be for our BL touch now we have 5 volt ground pa1 so this is where the power for the probe itself is going to go and then we have our end stop if we choose to use it that way but since this is actually our end stop here we're actually going to use the Z stop here to connect our other pins for our BL touch if we had neopixels or le the lights that we want to connect they would go here and then we have some various other ones that we're not actually going to be using for our installation but again as we go through this will refer back to here if we have any questions on how things are hooked up and whether they're hooked up into the right direction and we will refer back to this so let's get to the board and check out our wiring okay so let's get to installing this now I always orient my paper the same direction as my board it's gonna be hard to hit C because it's white but as you can see I've moved the thermistors and in stops and stuff like that down here on the bottom and up on the top sheet of the paper I have the motors so this way I can orient it with the board so first of all I'm gonna go ahead and do my main power so any time with a new board you'll need to make sure you pull these all the way down so that you can get the wires in here you can see them coming down on the sides as you do this now according to this the power is going to be on top get it in here then tighten that one down okay just like all the other screws make sure you tighten it down don't over tighten it but with these ferals on here you really don't have to worry too much because they're going to take the load from that okay now for the rest of the board I'm going to probably just work from this side to this side so that the wires don't get in the way as I'm adding them on so next up this is going to be fans Eero fan zero which is this one down here I am going to make the cooling fan now this of course has to match up with my firmware settings so it's important that this is fans zero fan one is going to be what I'm going to call the controller fan which is in the firmware as well this is going to now turn on whenever these motors turn on or any of the heated components turn on that's going to actually be the fan that is on our top cover to cool down this board next up we have our X in stop so we find out which one of these you back up just a little bit let me find out which one of these is our X this one is X it's going to come with our X stepper we're going to unwind these as we go so this is our X stop now for these end stops it doesn't matter the direction as you can see both wires are black so it doesn't matter next one up is going to be our Y which is going to be this one again untangling as we go to minimize any crosstalk on these wires or any just chucking up as we've got these here okay we're gonna put our Y stop here I'd go ahead and hook these up but I really don't want them all the way across my board at this point now if our Xion stop it is going to be our BL touch and now for the BL touch polarity actually does matter and so we need according to our schematic our pin out this the default way that it's wired which is as you can see black on the left and white on the right is going to be incorrect for this plug this plug is going to have ground on the right so we need to swap these wires we're going to get a really small flat-head screwdriver screwdriver we're going to see if we can get in here to loosen these pins up and get in here and these should pull out if you get in there just right there we go now again we're gonna swap these around I'm going to put this away it goes like this swapping these around the ground excuse me ground is gonna be on the right side so ground goes on this one white wire which is our signal is gonna go on this side again this does matter with the BL touch now while we're at it this connector is also going to have to be rewired so let's go ahead and do that now for this one looking at the schematic we are going to need the other is going to be right here but then these other two pins are going to need swapping so we won't ground and this one ground in this case is blue and our plus five volts is going to be in the center swapping these out we're going to pull up each of the pins on the plus and minus two swap those out we're going to pull out the one on the end first because that makes it easier then we'll plop the middle one and then we'll just swap them around so that we're all set with the correct signaling so now we're going to take and do this way so that's yellow red and blue those are gonna go on our bottom ones right here they stand here pretty well I've had no problems if you're worried about these coming undone you're welcome to put a little bit of hot glue on there to just make them stay in a little bit better then again this Z stop is going to go right here so BL touch ready to go next one we have the bed thermistor which is going to be on the right side and then we're going to have the hot end thermistor which is going to be on the next one the left I have to bend these wires just carefully a little bit to make sure that they go in easy next up we kind of forgot the rest of the screw in terminal so let's go ahead back over here and do that we'll move these out of our way so again I told you this was going to be a power wire this is going to be directly connected here so anything we want to stay on the whole time that power is applied to the board we can put right there so on this machine we know we have three fans we have the part cooling fan which is here we're going to have the controller cooling fan which is going to be above it but we still have the hot end fan which needs to be on all the time so that's what I'm going to end up plugging into that port now this isn't the only place you can plug it into on this board but I really like the solution and there's two ways you can do it with this wire because obviously we can't take this connector and plug it in this plug so either cut these and stick your Farrell's on it or you can do what I've done which is make an adapter so that when I switch around boards I always still have this plug on here for later again this is very simple it is just a connector that matches the one that is on the end of the cable and then I take the ferals and plug it in here makes it really convenient then to take this plug it in here now these can be plugged in here so let me switch heads red is going to be on our right like this and when you're putting these in here make sure that you're getting them where they will tighten down the red is on the right make sure they're good and tight so that these ferals crimp down like they're supposed to so now our fan should always be on when we have power applied and finally we're going to take our hot end and our bed and hook these up as well go and grab the bed because that's the next one in series here and with this one it is going to be red on the left and black on the right swapping it around here this is why it's very important to read your PIN outs again before I ever plug this in and turn this over and put all the screws then I'm actually going to make sure that I am correct on my wiring let's make sure these don't pull out they don't make sure these don't pull out they don't this one is good and tight and that one is good tight so I've got good connections here luckily these are not carrying a lot of current here in here because this is just a fan and this is just a signal over to our MOSFET which actually powers our bed but these are good tight I can't pull them out so I should have a good solid connection there final ones are for the hot end and these too as you can see since the wires are the same color these do not have any sort of polarity on them okay ends gonna make sure that these are in here good I'm happy with them now plug turns a little bit but I did get it nice and tight so that should be a good connection now the only wires remaining should be our motor wires oh and of course our filament detection so filament detection here we'll go to the EZ row stop which is this plug right here let's make sure that the wiring is correct on it it's going to be 5 volt ground and signal so as I was telling you before we got red which is going to be our 5 volt we have ground in the center and yellow is going to be our signal so it looks like there's no pin swapping on that wire which is really nice looking at this easy row so this is our II motor which is going to be on this end this is going to be z2 we're going to call that ZB which is going to go right here we have x y and z 1z one's gonna be next I'm going to call that za so maybe it just needs a little bit more encouragement there it goes I just had to wiggle it right this one's gonna be Y and this one's going to be X for our final connection all of that is as it should be so then the last thing we need to plug in is our new display let's move down just a little bit so you can see what we're doing on our display we're going to have a single tin pin connector I'm going to plug one end in here you want to plug the other end and the ext3 port which is going to be here this one should require no pen modification anything like that either we're going to go ahead and get a zip tie to tie that up and then for the touchscreen part of this we will need the other black cable that came with the touchscreen now this is going to plug in right here and we have to again pay careful attention the pin out is actually written right here on the display five volt is going to be our blank wire each of these wires is really nice they're color coded so we can actually know what we're hooking up so our blank wire is 5 volt that is going to match up to this one here on the end and then reset is going to be our dotted wire so let's go over to our board find the TFT connector which is right here reset which again is the [Music] dotted pin it's the one that's all by itself reset is going to be on this end and then 5 volts which should be the solid black wire is going to be on said so now that is all hooked up as well same thing with this wire as we did on the other one I recommend coming in here and doing a quick zip tie to try to clean this up a bit and the thing I'm going to change this one more time because I don't want it over these drivers because it's going to make it difficult to cool them so what if we take all of this and run it over here okay and for here we are going to need to do our best to get these wires as is out of the way as possible I don't know how much we can actually do here but we're just going to do our best try to get these down a little bit so that we can get some airflow hopefully just the fan blowing on this board having a lot of ventilation here will be enough if not we'll have to do something to reroute these wires to get them out of the way but we're going to try to go with it as it is final connection let's take this cover we had again boom this is that fan I was talking about let's write over our our main board and we're going to take this plug plug it into that fan one connector that I was mentioning above all right there and now we can fill this up and let's put the printer all back together so they've been power it on and see if my firmware is good to go okay so this is the part that gets really interesting where we actually have to see does it turn on number one does the firmware cut on and then we have to walk through the different steps of testing this printer to make sure that the firmware is configured correctly so first I'm going to I'm just going to turn it on I have a brand new firmware bin that I just put on this flash drive that's gonna be available in the link in the description and let's see if it loads the firmware and get started I'm going to stay wide shot because I want to see what the entire printer does here but you know we're gonna be kind of focused here for a minute to see what it does let's see smoke fire sparks I honestly have not turned this on yet so let's see what it does and well I'm not getting a display which isn't great but could be easily fixed the BL touch did come on and blink like it's supposed to so that's a good sign so I guess I just need to figure out did I get one of my wires wrong here on the BL touch let me go ahead and excuse me on the display see is it making noises when I hold down the button nope appears to be dead for one reason or another so I'm gonna open this back up see if I can figure out what the problem is if so I'll show you what it is okay so I pulled this unto an unfortunate position to be able to work on it easily as you can see here I actually have everything up and running as soon as I pulled the display out everything on the display started showing like it was supposed to so it wasn't my wiring I think I just had this tighten too tight I had it tweaked wrong in that mount somehow so I'm gonna be a little bit more careful how I assemble this back together get it all working get it lace back down like it's supposed to and we will show the test sequence when you got new firmware on your printer okay so I figured out what the problem was and the problem was is that the reset button which is down here on the lower right side it was getting pinched by the plastic and so all I had to do was grab a four and a half millimeter drill bit trust me I tried the smaller sizes first and drill out that hole a bit that stopped that reset button from being held down and now Bo touch lights up fans come on I've got my Marlin screen so this is obviously much more like what we were looking for and let's go through some basic testing now we get a little bit closer to the printer and a little less of me so that you can see what's going on so here we are let's go and take a look at the screen now first thing I'm going to do is I want to make sure that all of my motion is set up correctly on this printer so I'm going to go into the display I want to say motion and let's just move the access independently before we try to move it too much and have to quickly cut off the power in case something goes wrong so move X we're going to just do one millimeter increments and I should be able to go one direction and not the other so that should be tanking it down and it is because this is less that's more alright let's check out the why alright again we should be able to move back but not forward because we have soft end stops on which keeps us we're maximizing it excuse me I was wrong about that forward and not back because this is minimum so let's see ten millimeter increments it is moving although it appears to be moving way too slowly which is really odd so it's not at all what I expected it's like the steps per millimeter may be wrong something like that so let me go figure this out and I will come right back all right I have the steppers figured out there was a setting in Marlin that I had not set correctly there are separate addresses for the stepper drivers and so I had to go and set those correctly I will include a little snippet down here on the screen so that you can see what I'm talking about but I have everything working correctly so I'm gonna do what I said last time I'm gonna go ahead and show you that auto homing is working correctly from there we're gonna take a look we're gonna do a preheat make sure everything heats up correctly and at that point we can then start testing each little function out of the printer which I'll probably do behind the scenes to avoid the boredom of checking the filament sensor and things like that and then we can go straight to a test print and see how it's actually doing now before I begin that test print I've shaved off some of my settings that I was using with the stock board that will transfer to the new board I'm going to hook my laptop directly up to the printer to restore those settings and then I'm going to get to printing my test prints then I'll have something to compare to the prints that came off the other board we'll look at quality and we'll look at print times and we'll see how everything looks we'll probably be holding that to the end of the video when I have this as well as the STR B one point for printing and we'll take a look at all of the together anyway real quick let's do the home got a motion we're gonna go to auto home as you can see it looks like it's homing alright the L touch probe deploys and detects the bed everything is looking good so like I said from here I will do a few checks make sure everything's heating correctly make sure that my filament sensor works I already tell you when the motors start running I do here this controller fan cutting on so that functionality is working really well noticed another setting for that controller fan is about a minute after everything turns off in terms of the motors and everything then that fan will cut back off again keeping the printer quiet which is a really nice feature so without further ado let's switch over and get a test print going so that's it for the installation of the SK our mini III version 2.0 now if you followed this guide and hooked up your board the same way and your printer is relatively stock you should be able to use my precompiled firmware for this board I will have a link in the description directly to that file you simply need to rename it firmware dot bi in copy that file to the SD card that the board came with stick that card in the board when it boots up it will flash the board and then you'll be ready to go now if you need to make any changes to that firmware I will have a link to my github files which then you can access my configuration recompile and then go with that firmware dot then now if you only want the configuration and the platform dot ini file then I will have a zip file of just those files in the description so no matter what way you plan on setting up this board in terms of the firmware I'll have the files available for you now that's one board down one to go in my next video I will do the same sort of walkthrough for the SK RV 1.4 turbo and you can see how I installed that board in this printer it's a little bit different than what you've probably seen on other channels and I even have my own custom mount that I'm going to be sharing on Thingiverse that you'll be able to download so as always thanks for watching this video and for those of you that are still watching you guys are awesome for making it all the way to the end here if you'd like to help support this channel you've already done the number one thing and that's just watching all the way to the end if you'd like to help a little bit further hit the like button subscribe ring the little bell if you haven't done that those really helped the channel if you'd like to help financially support the channel I have both PayPal and patreon links in the description below again thanks for watching I'm Chris this has been Kiersey fabrications I'll see you next time [Music] [Music]

Channel: Kersey Fabrications

Views: 41,302

Keywords: 3d printer, bigtreetech skr mini e3, bigtreetech skr mini e3 bltouch, bigtreetech skr mini e3 ender 5, bigtreetech skr mini e3 install, bigtreetech skr mini e3 v2, bigtreetech skr mini e3 v2.0, ender 3, ender 3 pro, ender 3 upgrades, ender 5 plus, imprimante 3d, kersey fabrications, mini e3 2.0, mini e3 bltouch, mini e3 skr, mini e3 v2, mini e3 v2.0, skr e3 turbo, skr mini e3, skr mini e3 ender 5, skr mini e3 ender 5 firmware, skr mini e3 ender 5 plus, skr mini e3 v2.0

Id: VAXY3GkgTyY

Length: 30min 30sec (1830 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 12 2020