BIQU H2 Extruder Installation: Ender 5 Plus

hello and welcome to part two of my bike h2 extruder videos in the first video of course i reviewed the extruder you saw all of the test prints and i gave you some of my thoughts on the extruder now i wanted to go ahead and give you all of the details about how i went about installing this extruder on my ender 5 plus here now i go through all of the details in this video i cover the wiring i cover the mechanical installation i cover how i get the motor wiring from there down to here anything you might need to know to install this extruder or for those that are not installing the h2 extruder extruders like this one because the process that i follow here would be pretty much the same no matter which extruder you were putting on here because what i do is i go through this installing connectors at the hot end so that you can pretty much exchange it for whatever extruder hot in combination you want here because once you've got connectors there installing pretty much anything at that point is very easy now of course i gave you a full table of contents for this video down in the description and of course you'll see that on the bar down below so if you know exactly what you're looking for or if you come back to this video later as a reference guide it'll be right there easy for you to find so while this video is pretty long i hope you enjoy or learn from the detailed instructions that i give here not going to have an outro on this video so look for my patreon supporters in the middle of the video where i have a little bit of music because those people make this possible so thank you to all my patreon supporters and if you like this kind of content go ahead and subscribe but without further ado let's get into the installation and i hope you enjoy it [Music] so to get things started off right i've pulled out just about everything i could think of that i might need to do this upgrade as with many of my other videos i'm going to be walking through this process with you as i do it for the very first time so you'll see the things that i think of off the bat and problems that i run into as i get going so that you can kind of understand the process so just real quick i'll go over with you what i have here on the table and then we'll get right to an unboxing of this still sealed h2 extruder so first of all on my right you'll see that i have already done some test prints on my ender 5 plus before i've installed anything as i've mentioned many times on this channel you always need to do your benchmarks first you always need to understand where your printer is before you perform an upgrade so don't perform an upgrade until your printer is printing reasonably well that you understand how well it's printing and do a few test prints so that when you do your follow-up prints after your upgrade you have something to compare it to so you know whether the upgrade was actually an upgrade so i've got a deadpool statue here and i of course have a little benchy i could have done some more but this worked for my purposes of changing out an extruder i also have both some heat shrink tubing to clean up my work and to keep things from shorting out as well as some of these excellent um what do they call them the solder seal wire connector solar heat seals these are used a lot in automotive and marine these things are excellent particularly if you're not a very good solderer if you don't have a soldering iron they come in as you can see here lots of different sizes and these are really really nice and convenient to do a quick seal with nothing but a heat source i really like these for some of these type of connections so i might use them in this video next up i have an extender cable that you can buy from various sources this is an extender cable for my extruder motors and this is going to make this whole job a lot easier because at least on my ender 5 plus here currently the motor is in the rear of the printer and i'm going to have to extend that to go all the way to the extruder so this cable already being set up for me is a real life saver now obviously things are color coded really easily if this is too long you of course can cut it down and i may end up doing that in this build i then have some awesome jst xh connectors that are going to be used on any of the two pin connectors i also have a whole box of these if i were to need it for three pin four pin or even more when running wires and putting connectors in place now those jst connectors are just fine for things like your fan and your thermistor but for the heater cartridge which pulls a lot more current you're going to need something a little bit more heavy duty so i have these two pin molex connectors which are rated at six amps each which is more than enough for our purposes but you definitely want something that's going to be able to handle the current of those connectors i also just in case i need it i have some of this thermal wire which all of this of course will be linked down in the description so you can find it for your own purposes now beyond that of course i've got my h2 extruder here fresh in the box now for this one so when i ordered mine i ordered the all metal heat breaks as well which does not come standard with this this way i don't have to worry about printing at any temperature i don't have to worry about the ptfe tubes that are in these normally and it's just an easier printing experience for me i've had zero problems with the ones from micro swiss in the past and i hope this will give me just as little of trouble now tools obviously i've got tools i'm going to need for this job so i've got a couple of different type of crimp tools i have wire cutters of different types i have some snips of course a good set of snips will be really nice when you're cutting some of these higher gauge wires i have some nice needle nose pliers which i may need for crimping or grabbing a wire who knows and of course i'm going to need a decent soldering iron because you're not going to do this job without any soldering i don't believe unless you went with something like this so i guess it's time to get to the unboxing let's take a look at what this comes with what the whole assembly looks like and then we'll get to the installation one thing i forgot to mention that last segment are the 3d printed parts we're going to need for this build they were on my table there but forgot to point them out to you now both of these parts come from the 3d print general he did a terrific video on the h2 and i've borrowed these parts from him because his design works really well now this is a big heavy duty mounting plate that is going to convert the h2 to this back plate hopefully on my ender 5 plus he is also designing a cooling solution that's going to take the default fan that comes on the ender 5 plus and convert it for the h2 i think this will work really well as a default cooling solution one test both of these out then as a more heavy duty high flow cooling solution i now have this one here which is designed by 3d underscore work over on thingiverse and you'll notice what this one does it takes a 50 15 fan which is one of those blower fans it puts it right here and then gives you dual cooling from a single fan i can't wait to try this out see how well it works you'll notice this mounts directly to our h2 it then adds the ability to mount your bl touch directly to the front of this fan you see that mounts right there so i think this is a really nice solution i'm looking forward to comparing that default stock solution that the 3d print general has provided to this more heavy duty solution which is going to be a much higher power blower than the one that comes with the printer itself but i wanted to point these out to you of course links in the description where you can find these and we'll see how they work for me okay so first things first of course comes the disassembly of our existing hot end we'll need to pull all this apart then we're going to very selectively cut some wires off of here i'll show you where we're going to cut them because of course we're replacing this whole thing with our new unit we're going to start right here so this one should be fairly straightforward once we find the right size screwdrivers and let's get started [Music] now obviously i have the upgraded micro swiss hot end on mine but this will still be the same even if you're still running the stock hot end [Music] so what i'm doing right here is if your heating cartridge gets stuck in there you may have to just do a little bit of pry to loosen that up and then it should come right out of course be very careful here if you're not then you will break your thermistor not that we're reusing this one but you still don't want to break it in case you do want to reuse it all right so that should be everything off of the existing one now of course we're going to have to do some wire cutting in just a minute while i'm doing that though i'm going to take a second to check to see if our mounting hardware is going to fit like we expect it to and it does appear that everything lines up just like we would want the mounting holes for the h2 are right here i know those are going to fit because those are designed for that and looks like we are you know possibly going to need some longer screws here but overall i think it's going to be a good fit all the holes are lining up we got a screw here screw here and then of course a couple of screws right here or not if we just want to do these two screws so next up i guess is probably the scariest part of the entire operation that is figuring out what we want to do with our wiring because we're about to have to cut some wires one way or another and i thought long and hard about this because there are a lot of options here that you have with the wiring you can run this to where we already have the connectors in the back of the printer you could run them all the way to the board if you really wanted to and from an electrical standpoint there's definitely something to be said for having the least number of connectors on a wire but i think ultimately to make this as easy as possible while making it as functional as possible what i've decided to do is put another set of connectors right here at this hot end and of course the main reason for that is these wires that it came with just aren't long enough for the ender 5 plus now if you're doing this installation on an ender 3 on an ender 5 any sorts of smaller printers then this isn't going to be as complicated because the wires it comes with will be plenty long enough for your purpose but on the under five plus here that's not an option so what i'm doing is i'm actually going to cut these off in this area put new connectors here and the main reason for that is quite often or hopefully not too often but occasionally you have to replace these parts you have to replace this hot end you'll have to replace a fan and so you're kind of going to be at that point have to cut something anyway or rerun an entire component which is a huge pain so if we instead put connectors at this point then we have a quick connect system where all we'll have to do with the new component is throw a connector on it wherever it needs to be and then we're ready to go as opposed to running an entirely new wire so this is what i've decided to do if you want to run connectors back to where we have the connectors down here on the back or if you want to run them all the way to the board that's up to you it's your electrical just do it safely make sure that the connectors are rated for the type of wire that you're running obviously when you're talking about things like this the hot uh the heating cartridge it's going to have a lot more wattage depending on what wattage heating cartridge you have i think these are 40 watt cartridges make sure it can handle that but for things like the fan and for the thermistor those are those have relatively no current going through them and so the rating on those is is relatively unimportant so i just wanted to share that with you that's what we're doing here now now i can actually start the procedure so first of all i've got a couple of uh zip ties here that need to come off i'll replace these later i may even have to shorten this a little bit to put my connectors in place here so let me cut those off and i'm going to go ahead and pull this back if it will cooperate so let's pull that back all right i'm going to go and cut this one off here as well because we don't need that one while we're working on this now what i want to do is i'm going to pull this under sheathing back to wherever i think it needs to be now at this point i'll probably go ahead and grab another small zip tie so that i'm not fighting with this the entire time so i can just take it as far back as i want to pull it back again i can cut this later and just put a zip tie right here and hopefully if i put it on there tight enough it will hold that back some so i don't have to worry about i'll just leave that there just to notice where i'm working now i definitely don't want to lose any length here because this is the proper length to actually go to our extents on here so what i really want to do is just make sure i preserve as much of this wire as possible if i add a little extra wire no big deal i can pull that back down and you know stow it at the other end because that would be pretty easy but at this point i want to kind of cut these as close as possible now make sure don't cut this one this is for your bl touch we don't need to redo this one notice it already has a connector on the end if you cut this you're going to be a very sad person so make sure you keep that out of the way while you're doing your cutting and then from there on out we will go ahead and start cutting these off now if you have any reason that you want to save these because hey i may need them again i'll put connectors on them then make sure you give yourself just a little bit of room to put connectors on them so again i'm dealing with what probably three inches here or so maybe two and a half inches i'm gonna go and cut that off there and that's done no turning back at this point again don't cut that wire all right next up i am going to cut the other two wires now these are our fan wires i'm going to do kind of the same distance because obviously that's where the connectors want to be but there is actually a consideration here for how is this going to sheath and if i put all of my connectors in the same spot that's going to make the sheathing difficult to go over them so i'm actually going to if i'm going to put connectors on these wires here what i'm going to try to do is actually cut these a little bit lower i believe just to give a little bit more room for connectors i think that'll be a little bit better now i don't want to do a lot of room but i think if i do right there that'll be pretty good now it's important to note now i just cut two wires red and black is my cooling fan that goes to my hot end the blue and yellow as the cooling fan that goes to my part cooling that's obviously going to come in handy later to keep that in mind oh now that it's already done it's important to to go ahead and bring this up technically i did not have to cut the cooling fan for the park cooling's wire i could have just left that as is not cut that wire and if i would have done that then it would have saved me one connector but it doesn't give me any options for the future because then i can't replace this fan if i'd like to like i said like i'm going to do with the 5015 to try out other cooling solutions so if you don't want to if you plan on using this fan no matter what don't worry about cutting that wire but there we go now for my first crimp and connector on all of these i'm actually going to do the thickest of them i'm a little worried about this one because it's going to be a little bit harder to do i believe but that is of course for the heater cartridge that's these two red wires now this is one of the little connectors i'm going to need i'm going to put the female end of the connector here it's personal preference whichever one you want to do but i usually like the receiving end here on the part of the printer so again i'm going to need to put these on here this kind of filling this in here kind of lets me know how far i need to go with that strip there and keep in mind if you're not used to doing one of these connectors or one of these crimps the first crimp here this has two crimps on it the first crimp is for the wire the back crimp here is for the sheathing and it holds it all together so you need both crimps and as you can see that only means i need a couple of millimeters of that sheathing removed in order to put these on properly so keep that in mind when you're actually pulling off the insulation on these so i've got this here i'm not exactly sure what the gauge of the actual wire is in here so i'm going to be very careful when i do this and i'm going to start with some of my highest gauge this goes up to 18 gauge i'm going to try that first see if that works that seems to have worked pretty well although given the type of insulation on the outside of this that left some of the little strands on here so i'm just going to need to cut those off that looks about right some of that can stick into the connector itself i'm going to do the same thing on the other one so that is 18 gauge i don't know if that's the actual gauge of the wire but it sure is close enough for what i'm doing came off pretty good on that one too even a little bit better i'm gonna go ahead and clean that up there again all right so those look really good now i have to admit this is the part of any job i don't uh i'm not ever looking forward to this part of a job i don't like crimping even with the best crimpers i have i still make mistakes so just letting you know we all have a problem with this part of the job or at least i still do so um if i don't get the best angle here my apologies but i'm way more worried about getting this crimp done properly than i am getting the best camera angle because i don't have a whole lot of extra of these connectors so if i screw this up too much then i'm going to be in a big problem so i'm not exactly sure what size i need here i can always go tighter on the crimp but you can't go looser i do like to crimp the wire portion first i don't know if that's the proper way let me go ahead and squeeze this down just a little bit squeeze this one in just a little bit that'll help hold it on for me a little and let's go ahead and start with the two millimeter yeah which is the next to the last one see if that gives it a good crimp hoping for the best expecting the worst that actually i think looks pretty good um yeah that's actually pretty good holds on real well then for the outside cramp i think i'm going to go to the 2.3 millimeter see if that works again i can always go tighter if i need to can't go looser see if that works that outside one never works well for me so if you're watching you know a better technique on this please let me know i'm always up for new tips on things i don't like doing so notice on this one for whatever reason i got one side of it i didn't get the other side now this one looks good enough i'm going to take it down to the two crimp tighten that up a little bit maybe i should have gone with the two crimp on that as well but i think between the wire cramp and that crimp i'm really i think that's going to hold that seems to be good i'm not going to pull on it a lot but let's go ahead and do the other one okay we're going to do the two on both of these that works well okay there's the two on the inner one that one looks as good as the first one so that's fantastic let's just do the two on this one this time as well see if that gives us a better result and that may have been what i should have done the first time let's see so that's still not fantastic um crimp didn't go in exactly the way i want to let me go a little tighter sticking together something is uh wrong on that one so i don't know what's going on there i'm gonna have to do this manually and now this ugly sheathing is now making a mess i may have salvaged it here looks like i may have saved it a little thin there but some careful work i think that one is at least as strong as the first one let's go ahead and get our connector on so this is the female side of the connector which looks like that now this is a little confusing because it's kind of both female and male on these which is kind of weird because the connector this one becomes a female in terms of the plastic but this one is the male in terms of the pen so i guess that is what it is so let's go ahead and put these in here hopefully everything fits including my crimp that one went in absolutely perfect so this one goes in as well because the crimp has to actually fit in there too kind of let you know if you did it right and it looks like i may have gotten uh either lucky or i've up my achievement level on these so that one looks really good now i'm going to pull that one off to the side obviously we don't need to do anything to the bl touch now for the other three connectors here again i am using these lower current jst connectors and the again the female male again that's kind of difficult to tell which is which the penny side the pin side which i think is the mail end on it was about that time that i lost audio recording so i'm going to narrate some of this here as we get back to my real audio so right here i'm showing that you can use two types of soldering you can either solder directly to the connector or you can use these solder seals and use one of these pre-soldered connectors and just solder the wires which is a little bit easier now here for the next several minutes i am simply going to be connecting the wires up to the connectors i've got three sets of wires here i've got two fans and i have the connector for the thermistor and so that's all going to go together right here i will leave you with some nice music unless i need to come in and actually comment a little bit more but i think this section is pretty self-explanatory right here it's pretty nice if you want to solder one of these connectors and don't want to burn your fingers off it's really nice to be able to actually attach it to an existing wire that has the other end of the connector on it then you can solder to the back of the connector without worrying about actually burning yourself make sure when you're soldering make sure you tin both ends of whatever you're soldering together so tin the connector tin the wires that'll save you a lot of headache when it comes time to actually try to connect these together because some of your work is actually done before you even get started with the actual connection make sure you always put on your heat shrink first and then when you're done you can simply slide it back down over your connector if you forget to put on your heat shrink before you get started that's where you run into the problem and you end up having to unsolder it put your heat shrink back on and then start over [Applause] [Music] [Music] now for all of you that are not confident with your soldering and let's be honest there are very few of us that are keep in mind that i've cut a lot of video up here with me actually struggling through these connections because obviously that's not very much fun to watch so even those of us that have had actually some experience soldering these connectors they're still a pain they still take a little bit more time than expected you just have to be patient work on having a steady hand and you'll get through it [Music] all right let's pull these down see if they fit maybe i can get it on there yep all right so that side's on too we can pull this off all right so now let's take care of the heat shrink so obviously i have a nice torch here proper tip on the end of it as you can see right there i hope there we go proper tip on the end crank this up okay be careful not to overheat anything this nozzle on here gives me a lot of control over that heat to make sure i don't overdo it of course it gets hotter the longer i let it run so i have to take that into account but i don't want to melt my connectors or anything like that it takes very little to get it done don't put your fingers in front of it all right that's it turn it off okay so the receiving end of all of this is done as you can see everything nice and heat-shrinked i think this will last a good long time long as those hold and so the only thing we have left to do now of course is make the actual devices connect to these as they should first thing i'm going to do is the thermistor it's a good easy example if you'll notice this was a very long wire and i have cut off all the wire in between because i actually want to reuse this because i would actually rather solder this wire together than to have to crimp another connector just because of how difficult i find that particular task to be so what i'm going to do is i'm going to come in here and use those other connectors i've told you about which are these type which should make this a pretty easy task even if you're not good at soldering i'm going to come in here i'm going to grab these are probably in the 22 range now i am going to need probably some sort of helping hands for these don't know if i'll be able to do it without it so that goes in there then i can actually line up i don't think it matters again polarity on this one doesn't matter line up those two now if you'll notice in here let me show you how these work there are two binding i'm guessing sort of these are probably some sort of glue or something in the ends here and then the center has a little solder bulb that melts onto the wire and so if we put this in here make sure the solder bulb is over the wire and then we're going to melt that with the other one going into that solder bulb and then if they're both there when we melt this and melt that little piece of metal i keep calling it the solder bulb the uh the wire will be in one piece let me grab a helping hand of some sort to hold this while i heat it up all right so i have it all rigged up here i'm going to use my torch again to get this thing melted i'm just going to apply even heat not get too close to it this one's pretty hot i also have a heat gun that i could do this with or i could do it with a lighter if i didn't have any other solutions but you'll see it when those little bulbs start to melt all right then when that's done you actually have done two steps in one so at this point i have soldered the wires on the inside with that solder bead and i've also heat shrinked it and the entire connection is already done again a great solution if you particularly don't enjoy crimping like i don't or you're just looking to reuse these ends which you already have on your wire so this is probably ends up saving you some money because you can buy these 26 to 24 gauge connectors on here pretty cheap and big multi-packs again links in the description if you're looking for where to find these i'm going to do the same thing with the rest of these so i've got my two fans that i still need to do and i also still need to crimp the end of the heating cartridge so let's go ahead and get those done [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] all right next up is mechanical so it's time to attach the printed plate which i've just printed in some nice pla for now but it turns out i need it in something tougher abs petg i'll reprint it but i think this will work unless this gets too hot and then i'll worry about it then but right now we need to mount these two holes right here onto these two holes of our extruder so first of all most of the time when you print something that has very tall tight tolerances you'll find that your screws aren't going to fit now these are m3 screws so i went ahead and got my m3 drill bit and we will go ahead and do it over something and we'll go ahead and drill these out just a little bit real slowly we don't want to damage the print to get through it and then clean it up and then we're gonna do the bottom one and when i first started 3d printing i didn't really like doing this because you know get the print right and then you won't have to do this but come to find out this is just fine saves you a lot of plastic and we don't want any more of this going to the waist bin than we have to so got this right here again screws go in on this side because as you can see these are sunk into the part so they won't get in the way now we can take it and obviously this is the front because it has the wheel on it and then like that right there so we're going to attach it to here first i think these are going to take some screws this should fit in here with the m3 i drilled out let's just go ahead and check on that by itself may need my screwdriver to get it in there well and i'll hopefully these are the right size these are my i think they're called button head screws if these don't work though i may have to get the socket head ones and hope i have the right size in the socket head now it's looking like that's not going in super smooth so i need may need to drill it out one more time that is not going to fit so let me see if i can go find the socket head screws real quick and we'll go from there so i was unable to find the three millimeter socket head screws that i wanted to use so i just drilled these out to six millimeters so that they would fit the standard button head screws that i do have so this should work just fine to mount this this goes on the bottom and you'll find that it goes like this yep just like that so now we go back over here this is the back this is the front and it should go on like this just like that so we're going to go ahead and we're going to stick our top one in and i put i drilled these out to three millimeters exactly that should be just fine for this and now we can tighten these down in here okay again these are eight millimeter screws let me grab my other one goes down in here too those are tightened down all the way and that's good and tight so now we can flip this around now to give this a little bit more wiggle room i went ahead and drilled these out to 3.2 millimeters so that i could make sure that i'd be able to line those up just right give them a little bit more room so i think these are going to be m312s that i'm going to use here to attach it to the back plate we'll get this top one going and then i'll grab that m312 for the bottom and that's going to go in right here now this one i'm going to have to i think wiggle around a little bit to figure out where it goes again that's why i gave the hole a little bit more room and that does help me get this aligned make sure you don't force any of this if you obviously damage any of your back plating you're going to have a real problem because you're not going to be able to rethread that easily noticing this one's not going quite flush so i may need to drill that out a bit more as well because it's a little off centered it appears it is tight which means i'm probably running against the side of that hole just a little bit off on the dimensions so i'll grab my six millimeter drill bit again see if i can drill that out very very carefully otherwise you're going to go too far and damage the part you have to reprint it so i'm going to come in here um i don't know if i'm going to be able to do it with this drill bit i'm going to try pushing against the side here it's just plastic so it usually works pretty well again i'm just applying a little pressure to my right so that it goes in there a little bit easier be very gentle all right let's see if that goes in again try this again that's probably enough it doesn't need much it's probably only a fraction of a millimeter off but i would like it to be as flush as possible because that means that it's making good contact yeah that's a lot better it's going in there i'm going to go ahead and grab my hex key and that will help me tighten this up because i don't want any wiggle on my mounting obviously because that will affect the prints this is the hex key that came with the extruder this m3 just my nuts my screws here uh aren't quite taking it as well as i would like but that's pretty flush there and then i'll tighten this one down again don't over tighten these it's looking like i'm applying more torque than i would like to simply because yeah it's funny these aren't very compliant it appears because my other driver is fitting that a lot better than that one is so i guess i'll go back to that and do the best i can tighten that down there we go it did go in there that's good and flush that one's good and flush all right so that's nice and sturdy here next up let's look at some of the wiring first of all i'd like to see what i'm going to do with this bl touch a little concerned about that the most because really don't see a way to mount this well i guess it's possible and actually pretty good fit if i actually start over here and pull these out remount it with some longer m3 screws now that i've gone through all of that this m3 screw is a 16 and it's going to be long enough so uh through the magic of video i'm gonna do that real quick mount it here and see how sturdy that is um just mounting it straight through go ahead and pull off the bl touch itself because it's kind of in the way all right so this goes here finger guard goes on this side i have to decide what's best for my wiring i would love for it to come out here which is closer to the back if i can get all the screws in that side so let's give that a shot all right so screws on this side airflow usually goes this way to where the fan is on the outside and the back is on that side there see if this will fit in here i think it will outside went on easily but will it actually angle up and let me get access to the other one that's a big if and i don't know if it will yeah yeah it did so that one actually did fit in there it's seems to be a little lopsided so if we decide to move the bl touch at a later time that will be fine also moving the bl touch at a later time will free up this fan provide better airflow all right now we can put our bl touch back on hopefully we'll probably end up having to put it back off in a minute in order to put its wiring back on but i don't want to misplace everything while we're doing this i'm going to go ahead and put it back in okay spawn got that's back on there for now all right so next up let's go ahead and wire up the extruder itself get a little bit closer here so you can see what i'm doing and we're going to need to pull off the sock temporarily and i think the first thing i need to do or the first thing i'd like to do is actually turn this 90 degrees so that in typical fashion they'll be coming in here on the side and then i can route them at least partially behind this area here if they come out the front they're going to be in the way of the fan and stuff like that so let's see if it's a big deal to turn this 90 degrees by loosening this up turning it 90 degrees uh do i want the i want to put the thermistor in the front and i'm going to put the heating cartridge in the back and the reason for that is the thermistor wiring is a bit more forgiving so i'm going to turn it this way tighten it back up yep that was no problem at all now i can come in here with those new wires i've created before i'm going to insert those now in the little bag that came with the kit you will find two tiny little grub screws those two little black things that's what we're going to need to secure these now i'm going to tell you this now and i'm probably going to jinx myself horribly but you don't want to lose those two tiny little grub screws because you're not going to get more you'd have to go find your own and that wouldn't be any fun so tiny little grub screws and there is going to be the needed allen wrench in the bag that came with it so that's going to be the smallest one of these i believe and then that will fit there just like that and there's a little hole in the bottom i'm going to go ahead and get these started there's one on the back side all right quick new change of angle and i'm going to put in these grub screws i'm going to go ahead and prime them so i'm not trying to hold everything at once this will hopefully help me from losing them so i'm just going to get that started there i'm going to grab the other one which i put in my magnetic tray and then i'm going to put the other one in which goes in the front i'm just going to make sure it's on here well so that i don't lose and it does snap on pretty well while you're doing it so i'm gonna just get that started again all right so let's put on the big one first i'm gonna put that here and i'm actually going to play with the angle a little bit to see what's the best way to route this around the back here or if i need to just around the side and i think a little bit at an angle will give me the most flexibility so kind of angled there and then i'm just going to tighten that up making sure that honestly i don't want it to stick out either side too far if it's kind of centered that's what i'm going for tighten that down and then that shouldn't move anymore be careful with this of course this is actually a very tight connection on this side and if you wobble it too much you can actually break that pretty easily now i'm going to take this one and stick that in i guess all the way and it kind of holds itself to be honest and then i'm going to tight that one down too don't over tighten this one please keep in mind this is just a sheathing with probably a glass bead or something like that underneath and we don't want to crush it so just tight enough where that's not going to come loose on you that will come out and then we're going to put our sock back on so that we don't have to worry about it later and there we go looks really nice it's way more square than it looks in this picture but that looks pretty good then both of these come around the side here so back up top all right so at this point one of the last wires i have to run is this one right here and it is the stepper motor wire and one of the things i really wanted to do was to be able to actually just run this stepper motor basically from where it was before and just create an extension cable that went from here to here now obviously i could make my own extension cable if i really wanted to but i am trying to give you guys links to parts that you can use so i have this extension cable which i bought a while back off of one of the asian websites and unfortunately this is a four pin to four pin extension cable which means i can't put it on the end of the extension cable i actually have to put it on the other end which actually goes from the main board to down here so that seems to be what i'm going to have to do if i want to use this part which is really what i want to do this is just a nice simple straight through cable that would then allow me to move this black cable that it came with basically where all the other cables are put that adapter there and then hopefully that will actually just run back through this bundle of cables that's already going to the hot end that would be really ideal and hopefully that's what i can do that's what i'm going to go for here so now you know the plan i'm going to run the extension cable from the main board to the back of this chassis somewhere in this area down here that you're familiar with if you already have an ender five plus it's where all the other cable adapters are and then i'm gonna run the original cable which is a four to six pin wire from that area up through the cable loom to the hot end then i'll be ready to go i'm just going to do a wide shot here as i do all of that save us a little bit of time i'll see you back in just a minute [Music] [Music] [Applause] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] so my [Music] so [Music] [Music] me uh [Music] uh okay so now that all the wiring is in place let's go and finish up in this area and see if everything reaches like it should and uh then we'll move to the back because we still have to find a way to run our filament from our filament sensor if you're going to continue to use it to the actual hot end here so let's go ahead and do this first of all we have our motor wire which is going to go right there on top because that's where i moved it to we have the hot end wire which it looks like i may not have made quite long enough so that's fantastic all right well it's just long enough let's put it that way alright this is going to be our thermistor thermistor is the two white wires run that up here all right we have our bl touch which i will probably have to pull off to get down here maybe maybe not let's find out i've got to take it off i will if i don't i won't i'll take it off just to be on the safe side let's go and do our fans so this is going to be the hot end fan which is the black and red one alright so as you can see here of course i need to run this one so let me go ahead grab the right screwdriver and get that done all right that goes right back in here it should only go in there one way because of the keys i think that's the way it goes yep all right put that back on there we go that one's in there and as you can see we have one wire that is still unaccounted for and of course that is our park cooling fan which we prepared earlier now this is the part that 3d print general came up with it does the job so this is what we're going to start out with because at least it allows us to test cooling it's not my favorite design because it does cover up this wheel which is for advancing the filament so i don't think this is what i'll go with long term one way or the other but let's go ahead and give that a shot now i think i'm am going to have to drill these out because these are m3s and from what i can tell there's no way those m3s are going to fit in there no not even close whether that's the original model or just tolerances when i printed this it's hard to say so i'm going to drill those out and we'll get this mounted on here all right holes drilled out i'm going to be using 12 millimeter pan head screws and hopefully those will fit let's go ahead before we actually attach this and see if that will fit with the fan in place or if that's not going to fit yes he did leave enough room back there for those screws so that's nice let's go ahead and get those attached a little worried that these also were built for the socket head screws because now this little screw hole right here doesn't quite line up the way i'd want it to it's not a huge deal because if one of them is not there it should still work but i do like where that uh that cooling comes in down here i think that's a good place for that so now we'll just put this on here i think i'm going to need some longer screws than the ones it came with let me take a look real quick and we pull out the original ones all right so here are the original ones and we'll see if they still fit uh actually they may still fit these are the ones that were on the original hot end yep and those are going in those are threading well just like before i'm taking the small ones and putting them on the top we'll see if this one still fits over here or if that one's just going to have to stay out for now can i finagle it not really so i'm going to leave that one off for now it's not a big deal in the long run i would have to get those other screws in here so these are the longer ones and hopefully they find their threaded holes down here see if it can find that hole over there it's actually not quite lining up the way i'd want it to but we're going to see if i can get it in there sure if that's in there let's see let's tighten it up a little bit i know this top left one is going in well bottom one down here i can't tell maybe i got it that time i know i'm out of focus here sorry all right that one's in all right i got that one in two there we go all of them but this one are in now which plenty sturdy for what we're doing alright so the last one of course this one uh is our original blue and yellow and that is going to go in right here double checking and see yep i think that's wired correctly looks like i still have yellow which is red and then right here yellow which is red so i think all of that works well so one thing i'm definitely going to have to change with a future print guess i'm going to have to make my own here because there's nothing up here to hold this this print back here the one that's holding on everything i would love some zip tie mounts so i think i'm going to have to make those changes uh i may of course line up the holes a little bit more accurately for this particular back plate but as you can see i would love something really sturdy maybe even this way to get it at a good angle because as it right as it is right now it's going to be kind of flopping around which is less than ideal so thought about it a little bit and the way i'm going to handle this on mine again if you decide that you don't want to keep the filament run out center sensor or if you plan on putting it somewhere else but what i'm going to do is i'm going to keep that bowden tube for the purpose of getting it to our hot end and i'm really happy because by q big tree tech thought about that and they made it where we can attach our hose adapter here just need a pair of pliers to tighten that up a little bit because i don't want it coming off during the print so this is just a standard hose adapter that i have and then we are still good to go so that's really nice now the filament path is still good the only real downside i can think of to this off the top of my head is obviously we still end up with about this much wasted filament because our filament runout sensor is here in the back but we do still get to use it and at least in the short term i can actually go ahead and use this to hold up my wiring loom which is pretty nice and since it's you know not doing anything but just carrying the filament here it should be good and sturdy and provide a little bit let me make sure after i get all this in here i'm obviously going to clean up these wires with some zip ties make sure nothing is in the way of my fans and let's see does this go here it does make it all the way to that front corner just as i'd expect and obviously if it makes it there it's not going to have a problem going anywhere else and i'm pretty happy here because at least on initial inspection it looks like it still hits all of the points on my bed i mean it's probably going to be a little bit more forward and i'll find this out when i get to testing but i'm really happy with the motion here so i'm going to snap my fingers here and we will get all my wiring done all right definitely a decent enough job for initial testing and as you can see uh all of these are over here hopefully i don't have any interference problems with putting the high current over here with our motor but i think that'll be okay fan bl touch that one's another one i have to watch out for interference on and the other fan at this point let's go to the back which uh well you can almost see it back there anyway we're gonna go ahead back here to the back and just tidy up a bit so that i can run filament without any problems okay so back here we obviously have our old stepper motor which at this point we're not going to need so we can remove that like i said i'm going to leave my filament sensor here actually use that there won't be any changes in firmware anything that's needed because i'm just going to keep using it ideally what we're going to do here is replace this with a printed part that all it's going to do is hold this whole hose barb but what i'm going to try to do temporarily and by the end of the video remedy it is just save this so it will attach to this just while i'm running my test keep in mind when you're doing a mod like this it's important to realize you don't have to have everything at the very beginning you can get everything you can get it tested then you can make it polished that's what i'm doing in this video so what i'm going to do first is find the necessary size screwdriver to get these off make sure i'm holding on to this very well i don't want to lose the spring or anything and that's all that's holding on the arm all right loosens up that tension pull that off don't lose that either okay now as i am pulling off the motor here what's the right size now as i'm pulling off the motor here i'm going to need an actual note that comes off i'm going to need to hold the motor otherwise everything is going to fall apart as i remove the last screws and obviously i don't want to drop the stepper motor all right as i mentioned my initial goal here is simply to save this piece use it to get my filament from point a to point b so what i'm going to do here is just get some m3 nuts from one of my kits should only need two for the top two screws those are the ones that are really going to matter to me so i'm going to grab this put this right back where it came from i'm going to put an m3 nut on the back of it and just reassemble it in place okay one more m3 nut and the original screw that was on here tighten it down tighten it down if i want to tidy this up i can go and remove this screw right here as you can see here there's technically no reason not to just keep using this it doesn't look that bad my 3d printed part is going to be extremely similar to this so the only reason to reprint it to put something else here is just for aesthetic reasons if you want to put something nicer here if you want to 3d print something but given that this is molded plastic it's probably going to hold the end of this hose actually pretty secure and as i can show you right here let me get my filament all right now we're going to just thread this up like we normally would put it up through here and up through this hole nope that will go straight to our hot end just as before now if my calculations are correct i think we're just about ready to start with the actual setup of this make sure that everything works over on the hot inside uh get everything turned on and then we've got a lot of maintenance to do to get ready to actually use this so let's head back up to the front all right as i was about to set everything up to get everything turned on i noticed that my nozzle is actually not below my cooling solution it is really close but close is definitely not you know enough when dealing with this because obviously if this scrapes the bed before the nozzle ever reaches it that's not going to work at all so i think i'm going to end up having to lower my nozzle here now that's reasonably involved because what i'm going to have to do is actually pull both of these out move the whole thing down by twisting the heat block and then tightening my nozzle back down but i really don't have a choice because this doesn't have any vertical adjustment so that's another good mod that could be done to this would be add some vertical adjustment to it so i'm going to go ahead and make that mod here i did want to point it out because i think this is really important at this point that if you're not careful you may end up scraping this on the bed before your nozzle hits it so let me go and take care of that so i just realized a flaw in my plan and no matter how much i move the heat block down duh it's not going to change the total length of this area because we're always putting the nozzle up against our heat break so that's not going to help at all so that means that i either have to abandon this cooler altogether because there's no flexibility here and it's just wrong uh or i'm going to have to actually uh drill these out a little bit so that i have just a little flexibility because it's kind of at the nozzle for me so i'm going to try to do that try to salvage this line of thought before i have to switch over to the other one i was going to try so let's give that a shot real quick another thing i realized while i was assembling this was that since this doesn't move and at least since mine's printed out of pla and honestly you don't want anything melting near your hot end is this heat block is going to have to come up a little bit more maybe than you think otherwise you're going to be sitting right on top of this cooler which will definitely melt it so make sure you've got that up a little bit higher than maybe you think you should all right i think i've just got it figured out now this is going to be really close so we're going to have to see when we get everything set up and moving if it's scraping but i think it's just close enough all right so now's the moment of truth as you can see i have everything wired up here we're going to turn on the printer down here and actually see if everything works properly then we'll be able to start the leveling process and everything like that so let's cut it on all right bl touch is working that's a good sign and there is a fan test both fans came on as you can see so that's a good sign for our fans now what we need to do is go ahead we're just going to double check a few things first of all if you'll notice on the screen here both of our temperature sensors are working this one's a little bit higher it's probably because i've been messing with it but both of those look good let's go ahead and test the fans so i'm going to go into temperature fan speed this should cut on the particle length band and it does so that's a great sign next up this fan is not on right now which is the hot end fan so let's test that out i must have on the ability for that to turn on with heat so let's try that i'm going to heat up the nozzle it's going to heat it up to i don't know we don't need to heat it up all the way but for the heck of it let's go ahead we'll heat it up all the way and this will also allow us to test our thermistor and our heating cartridge make sure all that works properly so we're gonna do let's just do 200 and hit go and while that starts heating up now let's see yep that's heating up so we are seeing that the nozzle is heating up which is terrific that means that that is wired correctly both the thermistor and the heating cartridge now let's see when we get to a certain temperature does that fan cut on because as of right now that fan is still off and i don't know why because we did see it spin up on boot but as of right now it is still not spinning i'm not exactly sure what the reason is so [Music] sticking something in it is not making it move i don't know why that's acting like it is not powered on because we did see it spin up on power up so there was a test done on it and it did work so since we don't want to heat up past a point where we're actually going to damage anything because it's definitely not going to be able to cool itself off i'm going to go ahead and stop that temperature and do a cool down on it and then we need to figure out because that obviously that part cooling fan was working before so i'm going to need to do some debugging trial with a different fan see if that's going to be a problem obviously what we need to do also is test the motor so we're going to have to pull out our instructions here do a little bit of reconfiguring in the menu system here we're going to go to the advanced settings and first things first i want to check the voltage on that tmc driver we're going to go to driver current and for e1 we want 800 that's absolutely what they told us to set it to so we are good there nothing to change and the steps for me millimeter is really going to have to change on that e hopefully this doesn't take too long to zoom through but the new one that they recommend and what we're going to just run a couple of tests with is 932 steps uh good they've got this to where it goes faster as you go faster so let's go for 932 just as our starting steps 932 all right go ahead and do a save just in case we have to power it down we won't have to reset this there we go now we need to actually take care of that fan so let me go ahead i am going to heat back up this nozzle at this time just to test our motor so i'll know what i need to actually debug so we'll just take that back to 200 because it's not going to extrude if that's not heated up so we will go ahead and run that up to 200 while that runs up to 200 i'm going to go back here feed this into our hot end all right it does feel like we're all the way to the hot end and then i'm going to pull on my release which should allow us to push it into the hot end at least i hope i feel like going there maybe we just need to go right up to the edge there and then we'll see if it turns so we are hot enough should be able to go to motion move access extruder let's take some baby steps here make sure it's working all right i've got my hand on it i do feel that it's running let me grab the filament see if that yes it has caught the filament and it does feel like it's running at about the right speed now you're not going to be able to see this as soon as it comes out but hopefully if i keep moving this forward we will see some filament drop out here in a minute and there we go it is extruding uh so motors running and even better one thing i was concerned about was the motor going to run in the proper direction no problem there at all the motor is running in the proper direction uh heater cartridge works there mr works the park cooling fan works it seems like the only thing i'm having a problem with is this fan over here actually it looks like that fan is running now yep that fan's running now i don't know what's going on with that fan why it's cutting on sometimes and not others maybe i have a short in here i'm not sure i'm going to do a little bit of debugging off camera to figure that out but at least it is running now let me take a look see if our temperatures are holding because most likely no actually the temperatures are holding really well i thought we were going to have to do a pid tune there and i probably will do a pid tune just to make sure that i'm happy with that looks like we're good to go other than a little bit of debug in there to figure out why that was cutting off on me so i think i'm going back to a wide shot here time to do the mechanical part of actually leveling the bed properly so let me back up start the bed leveling process and we'll take a look at how it prints in just a minute now for the record here i am running a skr mini e3 version 2.0 so i do not have a g34 so we're gonna just have to do the left right leveling manually all right we're gonna do an auto home here make sure everything works properly up [Applause] well we have gotten in the way of our end stop it seems but that's an easy fix actually the end stop right here actually just has a screw right here and we can just move it sideways so that it hits correctly so that's what i'm going to do right here go unplug that that's as far over as we can go but it hits the wheel and so we're just going to move it over into the wheel because we've moved just a little bit over we'll hook that back up that wasn't actually much change at all all right let's do this again all right everything's heating up now now let's do that auto home i'm also going to see yeah the fan's cutting on again this time i still don't know if i just have a short here or something like that it's what it looks like i can't get it to actually start anyway motion auto home all right we're good now all right now i haven't set my new offset for the bl touch so that is one thing i'm going to have to do bl touch offset looks like it is about 43 and it looks like maybe 43 and maybe two or three behind it so we can get that set up it's pretty close though not a big problem looks really good i like that okay let's change that offset now if you're looking for that offset it's under configuration advanced probe offsets so technically it is we're going to go negative 43 and the y offset is going to be negative 3. all right again i'm going to go down here to the bottom of my settings make sure i store every time i do one of these now the first thing we're going to need to do is actually level the bed left right [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Kersey Fabrications

Views: 6,333

Keywords: 3d printer, 3d printing, biqu b1 h2 extruder, biqu h2, biqu h2 all metal, biqu h2 direct drive, biqu h2 direct drive extruder, biqu h2 direct extruder, biqu h2 ender 5, biqu h2 ender 5 plus, biqu h2 extruder, biqu h2 extruder all metal, biqu h2 extruder review, biqu h2 extruder/hot end, biqu h2 install, direct drive, ender 5 plus extruder upgrade, ender 5 plus extruder wire, kersey fabrications

Id: VKGd_r_WF0g

Length: 80min 2sec (4802 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 03 2021