AK47 USER GUIDE - PART 1

so you purchase your brand-new aka rifle and you're looking at it and you are not sure what to do with it because it is completely different machine than your ar-15 come with me we'll learn something new today about it so you purchase your brand-new a.k rifle and you notice after opening the box at FFL that it looks differently than your ar-15 fear not we'll try to help you to plow through that initial shock and make you a better user of aka rifle let me talk for a second about the most common complaint from the a case of the people complain that they are hard on the user because of the more powerful recoil and this is correct please remember that the round 7.62 by 39 it's bigger than the 556 by 45 and literally the impulse shock wave goes that way and the bolt carrier and both are traveling on the rails and only think between you and that impulse is recoil spring so the AEK is not using a buffer like ar-15 which helps absorb the Ricoh also very often the aks our fault with a so called slant break which is not providing that much of the relief on the recoil side here I have the simple fighter 47 and even that simple base provides a really nice Riko softening point let me put it that way but I just want to make you aware that yes you're going to feel a motor recalled because it is more powerful cartridge there's nothing wrong with the rifle however it is true that a lot of a case is solved over guests but we'll deal with it later so let me see what we can you know show you as far as disassembling the rifle of course you know the rifle worship without the magazine and even before the first time shooting you should disassemble the rifle and really check the ball inside of the you know board the barrel because I will tell you right away if you are buying the rifle like from Century Arms the you goes and pups or even the offers what they do they enlarge the magazine well because of our import flaws we cannot import that a cave with the original configuration of course so they do some more they enlarge that magazine well to basically except that aka magazines and what is happening I don't know how they are doing but very often you can find the metal chips inside the receiver gas tube or even inside the barrel so the good idea is of course when you are receiving the rifle just pop the hood and we're doing this by pressing the release button on the dust cover and dust cover is just basically a sheet of the metal and this is the recoil spring hours talking about to remove the recoil spring all you have to do is the press here push it forward towards the end of the barrel and then you can remove it and pull it out and we have the recoil spring remove now our lower the safety lever down which will allow me to remove the bolt and the bolt carrier notice that I click down the trigger hammer to clear the way for the bolt carrier to remove the bolt carrier basically pull it slowly by the charging handle and the bolt will both carrier will jump out from the rails at the end of the receiver now notice I have the bolt carrier and the bolt in my hands to remove the bolt from the bolt carrier simply push it backwards rotate and boom we have the bolt separated from the bolt carrier for now I will put them aside both parts I talked a little bit about the safety however some people are complaining that under new a case that safety lever is very stiff and it's hard to manipulate simply with the fingers the easiest trick to fix that problem is they basically move that through of the safety level to the 90 degrees like this and then to release the tension by pushing with your thumbs safety lever away if your safety is too floppy and by two floppy I mean I mean it starts moving from the recoil you will do the reverse thing you will pull the safety level you'll grab it like this and you will pull the safety lever towards your body if you need more informations about the safety levels and the efficient ways of using the safety check our video dedicated to the safety levels link will be in the video description but at this point when you have the bolt carrier and the bolt remove inspect the receiver for any pieces of the metal as I said or any obstructions for any kind of rifle now check the chamber as well that's a good practice with any new rifles now to remove the gas tube guys to remove the gas tube is extremely easy on all the rifles because usually that lever is a very workout and it's easy to pull that lever up and remove the gas tube if that level will give you some trouble and it's very hard because it's new don't use pliers I see some people are taking pliers and you know how very often they crank them too much and they break those levels what I do often is I use the slot on the bolt carrier which perfectly matches that level for the gas shoot and now I'm using this as a leverage and look I rotate it and the lever is free and the gas tube should come out on some of the rifles because it's a new equipment I ain't that gas black was pushed really tight that could be a little bit difficult but trust me wiglet pull it out and that gas tube should come out now since we have the gas tube free in our hands to do the pilot basically and look through the gas tube hard look through the gas tube and make sure there are no debris or any kind of you know of dirt or whatever from the production or from the assembly if you find any pieces inside the gas tube you can use the 12-gauge or brush from the 12-gauge shotgun and basically brush it out don't worry about spotless clean this will always get dirty because of the gases traveling that way so but make sure before shooting that this is really clean also now we have the exposed gas block make sure there is nothing inside the gas block do not oil the cache block some people are putting the oil that's a very bad idea this always should be dry so dry it out clean it use the compressor to blow any dirt and make sure there is nothing inside now we will do the word stink will basically look through that barrel from the receiving end so make sure don't be stupid that there is no cartridge inside the chamber otherwise you will be facing a natural selection so now I have a nice look into the bore of the rifle and I'm seeing there is nothing in the barrel if you have any dirt garbage inside the barrel basically run the brush through it the 308 works very well you can use the bore snake as well pull it out and basically be done with it and clean the barrel you cannot you should never shoot with any pieces of that you know dirt or like I said those metal chips in the barrel because you can permanently damage the ball or it can you know you may face some other catastrophic events are connected to it alright let's continue to talk about what else you can do as you can see this is a cleaning rod how you can pull out the cleaning rod basically pull it away from the rifle and start pushing up away from the rifle and the cleaning rod will walk away as you can see in the lower handguard we do have a hole that hole let us align the cleaning rod when in the retainer when we are pushing the cleaning rod right back together and as you can see because the length of the cleaning rod some of the piece of the cleaning rod goes inside the receiver underneath of the rear Trillian so now when we have the cleaning rod removed it's easy sometimes to push that lever out for the retainer and this will free up the retainers which you should push it away from the center of the rifle and then you can freed up the lower handguard right now my retainer is that lever is still very stiff so what I'm going to do is you can use either the you can actually use the gas tube you can use that edge of the jet tubes and try to wiggle it and that one is not going to work because it went too low we can try and use the dust cover on some of the rifles and that that will work in my case see I'm using the dust cover to pull it out and now my lever is completely open you can use even the flat screwdriver okay I just don't want to go and bring any tools so the retainer is out and you can basically wiggle it out the lower handguard and it's they are either you have wooden ones or you have the polymer ones no big deal and as you can see this is totally exposed rifle in everything from the basic components is removed the only thing what we would like to deal with it right now will be our muzzle device to remove the muzzle device you have to depress the retention pin pin is basically it's a spring-loaded pin and remember on those rifles this type of the rifle you have 14-1 left-handed threat okay so I'm pushing this and I'm going in the opposite way in order to remove the muzzle break and boom there you go this is exposed thread and that's basically how the barrel is looking like on the newer rifles so-called 100 series or arsenal most of the Arsenal rifles you will find the 24 millimeter thread as you can see this is much fatter end of the barrel and again you have to depress that are that pin and this is the 24 millimeter right-handed thread so we will go in opposite way let me see if I can again use that cleaning rod to push it down and yep I was able to push the retainer pin down and free up the brake and there you go see I'm going into the opposite direction as I did on this rifle but this is exactly what I was talking about you can clearly see and compare the front end so in my left hand in my left hand this is a 14-1 in my right hand it's 24 millimeters right-handed thread it's impossible it's absolutely impossible to mix them up because of the size and just to show you on the muzzle devices and this is a big hole and the small hole big hole small hole there we go guys so at this point we have disassembled disassembled the rifle basically to the to the pin oh you can call it the filter strip if you want to remove the stock you have to stock screws for the either polymer or the wooden stocks it doesn't matter which one you will remove the first but you have to untie them and then wiggle the stock back it could be very difficult on the polymer stocks because they are pressed really tight but remember there is not much what you can screw up just get it out if you have to and to remove the pistol grip usually at the bottom of the pistol grip you have a screw and there is a screw nut on the top and this is regular thread you basically untwisting and you have to pull it out screw completely and this this will remove the screw from the receiver we will talk in another episode about working on the trigger group and what you can do with the trigger group but this is not very complicated as well because the trigger group is basically resting on the two levers two pins not levers two pins and it's very easy to remove and work but that's the material for the next episode alright now I will put everything back together and we'll talk about that a few things as far as is zero in your rifle and working with the iron sights [Music] I forgot to talk to you guys also about the problems which you may encounter with the wooden stocks over the time those screws they have a nasty habit of kinda you know working out there's their way inside the holes and worry what is happening they start on twisting or you know even coming out the easiest way to fix this problem is basically take off piece of wood or something I use the knife slice it to small chips and put it vertically inside the hole and then tighten it the screws basically wood works with wood and the screw will have more resistance to hold that - that's true another trick could be you can add some sort of the tick blue on the screw to create more friction in top you know twist in screw to the hole ah let me go back inside for the second - very often people are complaining on the new a.k rifles that they are experiencing a wiggling of the piston head on the bolt carrier group and as you can see that one is wiggling as well but this is absolutely normal guys this is the rivet some sometimes you can find them hard that they are twist in and then protected with the rivet or or the pin but most of the case will have the piston head like this and that's absolutely normal that wobbling is normal so there is nothing to worry about also some guys are complaining and this is a kind of chrome finish so you cannot really see it but like on Arsenal rifles for example once or rifles when you have this bolt carrier in black you can see that the finish is being stripped up up here in this area and people are having a heart attack about it again that's absolutely normal if judge the finish is gone I wouldn't worry about it at all as far as are removing interworking on the bolt that's probably going to be a different episode but I will tell you right away that for working on the bolt the best way is just to have a regular ache a cleaning kit because inside the cleaning kit you have tools I needed to quickly and safely disassemble the bolt but it's very a simple procedure you're basically pushing the two pins out you will first push the pin from the bottom that will free up your firing pin and then you're removing another pin which will are allowed to remove the extractor claw and the spring inside but we'll do a special episode in another sit down down the road with the series about the the bolt and we'll talk about the different bolts and you know what what are what kind of firing pins we have and so on now as far as lubricating the AEK guys there is no magic I use very often just the regular CLP I like to put a little bit few drops of the oil inside the channel of course then on the edges where the bolt carrier is traveling on the rails and as far as for the bolt I just put it over here and maybe a little bit at the bottom and then just the fingers much of the few drops for the boat or body down the line so when it rotates it's it's a little bit smoother motion but the brutal truth is guys that the a K can survive without any lubrication for a long time that doesn't mean that you shouldn't lubricate if you have a chance keep it lubricated also you can put the few drops of the oil on the rails the top rails and the bottom rails however please remember that if you live in a really dusty environment like maybe in Nevada desert you don't want to put a lot of oil you wanna keep your rifle more on the dry side because that oil will attract all that very thin scent and you know I I spent some time in the desert environment and it really gets into the action and everything so keeping the rifle and dry side helps to prevent that you know you can still use those as just don't use it a lot alright so I'll put it back together and we'll talk about the iron sights so again you first place the bolt carrier on the rails squeeze it down push it forward then the recoil springs are goes inside and I'll show you the basic trick a lot of people for some strange reason struggle swish the dust cover what I do is there is a slot here right belief of the rear post relief and I line that front end of the dust cover with that flat first and then of course you have to work on that button release button so what I'm doing is I'm pressing down down over the release button and my dust cover jumps perfectly in into the slot in the real rear prune and that's pretty much it function check i rack the rifle put the safety on pointing to the safe direction squeeze the trigger nothing I lower the safety down click just like you like it I'm holding now the trigger I'm holding out the trigger I like the action you should release the trigger and you should hear the click this is a click the trigger is aimed armed not ain't armed again and if you'll press it again it goes on now I move the safety up and the rifle is ready to rock and roll and have some fun down there range let's talk about the adjusting the iron sights right now for some strange reason those iron sights on a que rifle caused a lot of headaches for the users inside the United States but fear not there is nothing really complicated to it these sides are in matrix system so all the distances marked on the real rear leaf which you have 100 200 300 and so on are in meters so if I will move the slider and I'm doing this by squeezing both ends and moving the slider to 100 I am at the 100 meters 200 meters 300 meters and so on on some of the rifles that relief marks will go all the way to 10 which will correspond to the 1000 meters on some of the rifles there will only be to 8 which will equal to 800 meters now when zeroing your rifle and we'll talk about making all the adjustments from the shooter position like when I'm looking down the barrel from this position so I usually do the 0 when my iron sights are set to P s or some other beginning marks which is basically so-called battle 0 now if you shoot with the rifle and you're hit on the target are on the left side from your point of aim so point of impact is on the left side from point of aim you have to push the front post to the left and I use very often them this Magnum addict tool this is the best tool on the market for adjusting the site and it's nothing very complicated to it all you're doing is you put that clamp over the front post and then by adjusting the tension with the ever you basically a pushing drum from the front post to the desired direction so as I said if your point of impact is on the left side left side from your point of aim the front post has to go to the left side if it's on the right side you guess correctly it should go to the right side nothing mind-blowing right if you need more information about the zeroing and how to zero the rifle and different major ways of zeroing the rifle I highly highly recommend you to pick up the a k boot camp book where you have a different types of the zero for the different ammunition and things like this but to keep it simple if you want to have some basic 0:08 from 25 yards until you should have a fairly good 0 more or less on the human size target up to 300 yards without adjusting the slider now if you would like to do it really like to have the corresponding values on the slider to the distance you should throw it from with the settings at 100 meters and zero the point of the impact should be equal to the point of aim at the 100 meters which roughly will be 101 online yacht but as I said watch the video about the iron sights are zeroing I will put the link the underneath of that video if you wanna learn more or again shameless plug for the a K boot camp book which will give you a good zeros and good ways to zero your rifle but as far as adjusting the iron sights on the a K rifle that's pretty much it this is how we do it nothing complicated to it and to remember to have a good tool for it now what are the most common problems with adjusting the iron sights this drum could be stuck you know really badly in that front post so if you don't have a good tool one of the methods could be that you can put the empty casing and have a I have an empty casing somewhere here yes I do you can put that empty casing on the side and use the rack basically we'll do it like this and you will punch it from the top and this will push the front post one way or another of course you can do it from both sides if this will not help if you are finding that drum being still stuck inside the front post another trick will be basically to dump the magazine quickly warm it up and then try to do the adjustments just remember that whole area will be extremely hot don't burn yourself right so pretty much for the brand new rifle for the basics that would be it guys that covers most of the subject if you are wondering what is this thing on the side some of the rifles are equipped with so-called side row this is the way how you mount the optics on the aka rifle and over here we can see this is a 3x scope and you can put the optic there is a belief that there is not much what you can do with the AEK rifle as far as modernizing it but look at that example you know it's fully pimped and this is a very effective or combo so called an insulator I absolutely love it I think it's a force multiplier on those rifles but also we have a DMS mr. first tactical stock in this rifle is basically a modern rifle so that's it for now guys stay tuned for more episodes about the for the series will go more in the details about working on the triggers talking about the triggers we'll talk about disassembling the bolt in the future and upgrades and what you can do with the aka rifle to make your life easier however as always at the beginning I would advise you strongly to learn the basics and how to basically use the iron sights and get comfortable with the rifle then start doing the updates thank you very much for watching please let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to answer it as much as I can

Channel: AK Operators Union, Local 47-74

Views: 554,177

Rating: 4.9476805 out of 5

Keywords: ak47 user guide, ak47 guide, ak guide, ak47 manual, akou, rob ski, akoul4774, ak47 tips, ak47 most important tips, ak47 assembly, ak47 disassembly, ak47 field strip

Id: YGWve90MqKI

Length: 27min 33sec (1653 seconds)

Published: Sun May 07 2017

Reddit Comments

[u/68W38Witchdoctor1]

Ahh... Good old Rob Ski. Best ambassador for the AK universe to America there will ever be.

[u/whale-trees]

Hahaha I love the natural selection comment! Awesome work Sir!