7.2 CAT 3126 Cylinder Block Rebuild | #FTreeKitty [EP7]

all right this morning we're on our way to scott's at north town we're gonna do some uh work on the 3126 i know we've done lots of uh time lapse videos on uh the machining process we're gonna dig even deeper into this one and talk about polishing crank and clearances and installing some total seal piston rings gonna be a good day except i'm already 23 minutes late so hopefully it doesn't fire me before i start [Music] [Music] that's right we got a king ranch full interior when you get a transmission back and it's got your name on it along with who built it we're gonna start off by uh chamfering the oil galleries in the crank we'll start installing cap and rings and put as many pistons as we can before what you have to go in what ten minutes yeah okay welcome back to north now machine this is where everything all the magic happens uh it's just a small shop just myself i have one other guy my guy aaron he's over there doing some 350 rods uh you guys have already seen the video of the boss and us tearing down the cat engine now that all the tear down is done we're going to be going on to machining it so we'll be hitting all our different centers we'll start off hot taking it and cleaning it and prepping it checking for all our sizes then we'll deck it square to the crank and then hold it deglaze it whatever it calls for and then we'll start getting ready to assemble it i have a plan for the boss to come in and i'm going to teach him to start doing some stuff on the crank we're going to start by uh chamfering all the oil gallery parts in the crank and then i'm going to have him polish it and then install and then we're going to install rods gap the rings and do as much on the bottom end as we can [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] hmm [Music] [Applause] [Music] hmm [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so we have over here i finished prepping it to put the block on and inside the machine anchor the block down check to see if it's out at all using a little dial indicator and if it's all good then resurface it block is all anchored down there and there all i need two and now just test them to make sure see if the block is level [Music] so [Music] you're late i know i'm not used to being an employee i got a good day planned for you right on we're gonna start off by uh chamfering the oil galleries in the crank okay uh we're gonna polish the crank we'll check it for sizes you're gonna help me carry it in because i can't put it in by myself takes two of us [Laughter] and then uh we're gonna move on to the rods we're gonna check uh rods for sizes i've already done it all but i just want you to go over with me okay and then uh we'll start installing cap and rings and put as many pistons as we can before what you have to go in what 10 minutes yeah let's go i'm going to teach you how to uh polish the prep for closing to get the crank ready to get installed this is basically how it came out of the engine when we tore it down so those spots and stuff that's from when it was sitting in the engine yeah there was definitely water in it because if you look at the bottom of the water put on the oil pan you can see that there was a little bit of a water level and i think it was sitting outside for a long period probably so what we're going to do is uh i'm going to start off by getting you to chamfer it is a little bit tricky for when you first start to get the oval into it but i'm sure you'll pick up on no problem so we'll chant for all the holes we're going to polish it it's not going to clean up everything we're going to get staining but stain is nothing as long as your bike's round and no imperfections chances are we're probably not going to get some of this stuff out but again they're going to use a cork belt to take any of the rust and the debris off if this is heavily rusted and heavy pitted well obviously you're going to grind it i get a lot of people that automatically assume polishing the belt is to make it as shiny and smooth as possible but that's not necessarily the case you shouldn't rotate a crank counterclockwise when it's a clockwise rotation engine yep and this is why so when you polish up a crank after it's been running in a nice engine for a long period of time it's taking all these little tiny fiber here imagine if you had a microscope and there's billions and millions of all these tiny little hairs no matter what happens when you grind it with a crank grinder it opens up these pores and these hairs that are in the in the frame when we polish it what we're doing is we're at multiplying that so there's 10 times or a million times more of those hairs and they're all in the direction of the way we polish it you do a couple of revolutions on a fresh polished crank in reverse if you take that bearing cap off that oil now will be great because it's actually picking up some of that bearing material so when we polish it what we're actually doing is we want those fibers in there because that's what suspends and grips the oil to the crank and allows the crank to float it's not supposed to touch the bearings it's supposed to ride on the oil film and the polish allows that to happen so what we're going to do is we're going to start off by chamfering all these holes uh it's pretty simple just use a little tiny die grinder with a bit there is some pretty good chamfers in here already i won't get you to do the main oil gallery holes okay what we'll do is we'll play a little bit with the rod now this isn't bad you can see a light chamfer halfway around it yeah you see a tight side on here yeah i want to get rid of that because when we go in and brush all our oil galleries out with our brushes in some cases holding that brush out is enough just to pull up a little tiny piece of steel and would create a high spot or something to scratch your bearing on all right so what we're going to do is we're going to go in we're going to take those uh sharp edges off blend them into what already the chamfer is already there and then we'll brush out our cranks with no risk of pulling material off okay and then we'll polish the drink after okay um will that help as with the oil coming out too because it's sharp here and and uh chamfered on one side if the oil is coming out would it favor the oil going one way and not the other not really no it's all coming out at such a speed uh i'm more concerned just about any type of small bits that can get pulled back out okay if we got into uh actually fish melting or grooving these oil galleries and creating a path for it then yeah and that's where you start to get some performance engines wide mouth oil galleries that's not what we're gonna be doing okay we're just eliminating any future problems okay so basically all it is is it's just like chamfering any type of hole but this hole is oval so it's going to want to catch on you go across okay obviously we don't want to bounce all the way across hopefully it won't happen but it's just simple we just want to do i try to support it by one hand i usually try to let it fall into the [Applause] circle there we go so you can see the nice crisp chamfer all the way across now yeah that's all we're looking for try to cup the stone right into the hole and kind of go yeah just like that okay [Music] perfect yeah if it blows a rod on number four we know it's uh that was your first one [Music] it's a little bit harder for the opposite side eh yeah that looks good that's enough yep okay so go over this one number five oh [Music] yeah it looks good [Music] nope [Music] so yeah i think you got them all hold on good job yeah i feel the stone drops right in there yeah yeah you start getting the smaller like hondas even ford 302. man they're hard you cannot really jump off the hole really fast right right again okay so we're gonna set this thing up now we're gonna polish i always like to go with my cranks uh i go with a little bit of a used belt first just to knock down any of the the high spots pretty good there's no point in wrecking a brand new belt on cutting all that stuff down so we're just going to hit it with a used belt and wrap that use belt we're going to throw a new belt on redo the whole thing okay on a big crank like this you really shouldn't have any problem but what you don't want to do as it's spinning you don't want to have tension and then no tension you don't want to be on it down to be loose and then on the up and go really tight yeah you want to try to move your arm with it with the stroke so you keep the same tension all the way across don't worry if if you mess up a couple times another reason why i have used belt on it but a cork belt is not designed to remove material okay it will only polish it okay all right it won't turn into an egg if we held it there for all day long but you're gonna hit it once it's gonna get tensioned it's not gonna cause any problems i'll show you to me i'll show you a rod yeah we'll let you continue on all right [Music] that'll get cut out right okay so i just put a little bit of texture on this because sometimes it has a habit of breaking up it's up this up pretty simple when i start to lower down the main you'll start to see the tension come up it's not really doing much only because it's an older belt [Music] pretty simple yeah yeah okay so we're going to rod so now we have to offset the table to line up so we time it right so we come down on the down stroke of it all right yep and then we just rock with the stroke of the crank yeah and then just going around we just want to pull over just a little bit now we're going over top of the oil gallery that's why you hear that mist come over the edge it's going to be a little bit harder for you to know where the edge is i just been doing it for so long so i can have the feel of the machine yeah but you can see how i maintain this gap here all the time yeah so that's the tension if i don't move it this one has to see yeah you don't want that yeah we don't want to put a lot of tension on it all we're doing is hitting that surface see the glow around the oil yeah it's just in my personal opinion that's for the pressures of drilling the oil gallery right it has to displace material when you're doing that yeah yeah that's just a little bit of deflection it's probably only probably less than a tenth yep but you start to see those marks right yeah so what do you think ready yup i'm ready click that so we get rotation yeah yep you can do a main or a rod first yeah try the main first yeah no just get the feel for the machine [Music] so can you feel how it rolls back and forth yeah yeah there you go all right [Music] that's pretty good i heard a bottom out there for a second but [Music] there you go that's a little better you just gotta get in time with it that's all you kind of just watch that gap on the belt and try to maintain that tension on it perfect let's stop it and see yeah there you go so you see a little line like that right there yeah nothing to worry about the crank is such high quality you just see how shiny and brilliant it's standing out right right uh the camera doesn't do it justice you can see our reflection in it almost yeah yeah but yeah little lines like that nothing [Music] oh except for the one where you broke the belt here yeah so the smaller belts are obviously for smaller journals yeah yeah uh so i'm going to give you a little bit larger belt so now you'll only have to do half the movement yeah okay some of these lines and some of these paintings it's not going to hurt because surface area for one yeah it's not all the way around the journal it's only in one spot yeah and traditionally by standard it's holding oil it's just a spot yeah and that's what in the trade that's what people will make fun of ah that'll just hold oil right but that's not even it looks like a lime but that you wouldn't even be able to measure it it's uh it's just because the polish isn't digging down and taking that out right right if we were to put a sanding belt on like an actual belt to remove material yeah you would get rid of all of this well that's that's not what we want okay we don't want to remove material for one yep there's nothing around this crank my measurements this crank is 100 perfect all we're doing is open up the pores again and make it clean so you don't have any dirt yeah and it had a little bit of rust on it but i don't know if you can pick that up on the camera without grinding you're not going to get rid of some of these i i think they're gone you just you just see uh you won't be able to see in the camera you can just see some tiny left over oh yeah one little one little line there yeah but we're going over it with another belt again too right it was sitting for so long where is going yeah shoot even in a sealed engine it's still going to affect moisture in our climate because of winters and summers like this morning when it was like 11 and it'll get to 30 that creates moisture absolutely nothing wrong with it no [Music] problem [Music] because now we're gonna clean all the oil galleries make sure there's nothing in there so what i use is uh i'm a big fan of gun wash so basically just like a painter auto body guy this is the same uh they call it thinners for the next step uh it's a cleaner version of thinners which is a gun wash and it doesn't leave any residue back cut grease and oil unbelievable nice so basically just gun wash meant for cleaning guns oh paint guns all right so we'll go find the right brush so we'll get one that just has a little bit of tension on it so this is what i was talking to you about earlier and this is why we chamfer the holes because we go bring our brush in so you can see how the edge of the of the brush is hitting on the oil guard yeah well most people won't even care yeah just yank that out if this has a sharp edge on it when i go to take it out it's going to peel that edge up and that's why i get a high spot right i still take my time and i pull it out through the center so it's not touching yeah but it's just the little things that count so now what i do is i'll fill each hole [Music] and i'll brush out and i can feel if there's a chunk and you can see a little bit of dirt now this particular crank has already been hot tank twice and all the gallery plugs have been brushed out but we're doing it again just to be uh 100 sure there's still a lot of dust that'll come out yeah but this will be the finished product on this i will not hot tank this skin after okay this will be more than enough and what it needs there won't be any dust left we do all through holes all these broad journals connect with the central main oil gallery uh normal gun what copper in copper end won't scratch any of the steel or any of that so i can stick it right in the hole it's not going to scratch up the steel [Music] now that thinners will leave a little bit of a residue especially if they're pulling out a little bit of dirt i buy special rags that are things that have the static remove from them so they don't have drink that builds up on them okay and it looks crude but this is the best way to do it it keeps it clean typically after this uh i would bag it all up with saran wrap and seal everything off there's no oils no water there's nothing on it so it would not rust they won't corrode or that stuff you don't gobble tube of grease on there and that's i know it's sitting but our jobs don't sit so i'm either installing it or the customer is waiting on it yeah the customer says yeah it's going to sit for a long time difference between diesel engines and hot rod engines where yeah so now i'll give it one more little blast of air just to [Music] that crank is ready to install [Music] so this is uh this is my bible this is a molly bearing book so this video gives us uh as much information that we need to build an engine specs everything to follow uh so in this let's see you don't randomly google stuff and watch youtube videos and what perspective mostly the boss videos 3126 3126b 3126t all has the same line code in some cases i can even go into different series and look for that line code and refer back to it a lot of the engines are all the same and have the same specs but we're gonna go with this one this one's number seven we just find number seven in our book that's right here you see 3116 same 3126 b c e turbocharged intercooled uh 3126 generic 7.2 liter and this now gives us our rod bearings the bearings that we should be using the oversizes standard shaft diameters uh bearing housing this is our bible okay next we're going to start setting up and we're going to start going over some of these specs so right now what we're looking for is we're going to double check uh i've already done all this stuff but with you even here i want to give you the experience of doing it so what we're going to do is we're going to check the housing board so i just set it up i set my mortgage go inside check to make sure it's to the right spec in this case we were doing it didn't have a lot of time on it uh if i get an inch that comes in it has three four five hundred thousand kilometers i would cut all these rods and resize back to standard size cut meaning you take a little chunk out in between and then board out yeah we cut a little bit of material off the rod a little bit off the cap that essentially brings that circle now to an oval and then resize the center hole back to a circle to our specs that uh they give us in the hook okay now technically that does drop our uh center line of the rod which means that it lowers our compression distance yeah uh very very minutely almost uh i would say maybe one to two maybe three thousand the most if the rods are in good condition like this but you'll see when we do the build we're gonna install all this stuff we're gonna check our piston heights and we're gonna cut all our pistons to the proper height that's what i do as a standard job some people can just slap this together and 99 people do but i want to make sure that this piston is the same as this piston is the same as this piston we do the same thing with the valves every single valve is cut to the same depth and that gives you a quality through your engine and every one of our engines is done the exact same way even to the point where we deck a block it's square to the center line of the crank okay so we know that the front is square to the back so this there's two important numbers that we need to see we need to have our bearing outside diameter or housing bar so the housing bore is what we need our housing board diameter like we follow down to here so that gives us a difference of point nine five two three to two point nine five three three so you can see that we're allowed to have a thou of difference and then what we also want to know is our max wall so i check this on every single bearing that i install into an engine so you go down to our max wall our max wall is 97.00 and what that means is you take a rod bearing and that's measuring the thickness of the bearing and i check every single bearing because i have gotten in situations where they're off or they mismatched in the packaging but this is crucial to our build what i'm going to do is i want to make sure that i'm not over top of this number so what i typically do is i'll take the 2 inch 953 set my mic set my board gauge and then we want to be below that so as long as we're tighter than that i'm happy with it so what we do is we take our board gauge let me lock that down i set my mic now this mic has been zeroed i zero once a week at least we set our mic to the two inch uh 953 we're gonna adjust our bore gauge make sure i get it right at the very top there okay let's just set lock it down do it ride nice and now i just support it on the bottom so i know where my zero is let's see right on zero all right i will check all the way through across the whole surface to make sure that we're in and we are perfect then we'll go across we'll check every rod just like that we're going to do cam bearings going inside and uh just wipe it out just make sure it's alright it just came out of the hot tank uh servings is clean on it but i still want to just make sure i have no type of dust or anything that might be floating around at this time so everything's clean so i printed this off of uh aera which i'm a member of uh it's an engine rebuilding association that's uh american based and they basically have information for pretty well every engine that's out there and there's a special service built-in in regards to the installation of the cam bearings there's lots of confusion uh you would assume that the oil gallery hole would line up with the old gallery hole in the block but what they used being a full groove bearing that would almost eliminate any oil pressure getting anywhere else because there would be a free flow straight through that hole and very little would come around the group so what they're doing is what they're telling us is that they want the parting line at roughly uh three o'clock and then the oil hole pointing straight up so now that will force that oil to go in and around the oil bearings or the groove then that hole will come out and lubricate the cap all right so we have all our cam bearings set out all of them are the same except for the front one front one's a different one so but what i like to do is uh uh i like to always start in the middle so what we're going to do is we're going to install the first three or the middle three then we're going to install the cam make sure it spins freely and that will get to our starting point and then we'll start to do the camber area we'll do one more camber installed ham again make sure it moves freely another cam bearing and we'll have a feel for it i like to fit hands and try to fit the cams so that they can rotate freely without lubrication because then i know with lubrication must be right there [Music] so you can see in the hole that it's not lined up because the rocker box goes here too so that groove also has to feed this hole so we're just going to install it until that groove is lined up with that hole [Music] that's it next one you want to try it uh i can try it [Music] so we'll go down to uh install the main bearings in what i do is i go back to my trusty old book here so now we're on the main bearings and what i want to know is i want to know the max wall on the main bearings so because this is a standard bearing this will give us the standard thickness of it and so what it is it's uh 96 out now at eight tenths so there's a special ball mic that goes on here it's rounded on one side so that you can get into the curve of the bearing and now we'll go across we'll measure all the bearings we know the crank is standard we're right on we're at 96 and a half and it calls for 96 and 8 tenths and typically in aftermarket bearings always give you a couple tenths extra appearance okay we know the crank is standard and this will mic up as a standard bearing so now we go across and i mic every single one of them to make sure that we have the same in some cases if we have ones that are off a little bit we can mix and match and make sure that we match up the ones that have maybe more material that's very rare though in today's age with uh machining most of the parts are staying on so we'll just make up every single main they've already been wiped down just to mention to you that we uh previously magnet boxed cylinders mega flex assigned a block to make sure there's no cracks in it and we've also bolted on all the main caps and measured the housing board to make sure that it's within specs too so all that work has already been done uh it's a lot over to get all that video all the time but we know that the block itself is perfect all our main bearings are perfect we've already microcranked we know the crank is perfect uh so now we just drop the bearings in so you take your housing bore minus the width of the bearing subtract the width of the crank journal and that'll give you your clearance and get a little bit of math like that yeah so these are solid on one and a hole in the other yeah if you do them backwards it runs for about 30 seconds before it seizes up the grooves should be offset so you can't install them backwards yeah well we had a guy put a 3406 together that seized up in about 30 seconds that was before me right that was uh edgar trucker machine really yeah he didn't last very long i know it wasn't me you see the locks the locks are only there they're full proof really you don't need the locks there and there's a lot of older engines that don't even have any locks on it and i'm sure i'll probably get some comments about that but the locks are really only for the installer that lock doesn't hold the bearing the crush on the housing board is what holds the bearing if bearing spins you have to resize the rod or line bore the block because if it spun in there it's lost the crush and it's not because those tabs those tabs have nothing to do that's a very that's a that's a very definitive answer insane um but you can talk to berry manufacturers this is one thing i'm adding okay then we'll leave that on camera comment down below as to how wrong scott is this is uh my product of choice i've been using this stuff now for about 14-15 years uh even before that it's a cleveland bearing guard and a clevite cam lobe guard so this has your gdp and your molybdenum and all that in that sticks to the cam for breaking uh i've never had this let me down i use it for every single engine anywhere from five to eight engines a month i'm heavy industrial visa [Music] nice i love any engine that has the seals that bolt on after because then we already know the mat everything is good now we just drop it on so there are arrows on the front of the cap and number towards the front yeah and if you ever get into a situation uh what i typically do and there's a lot of engines i have to do this but you can look in the block and you can see the shadow you can see the staining of it from from having it before right and in an industry standard just not always the rule but locks usually always go together [Music] 45 plus 90 degrees now you got to be a little bit careful this assembly lube it is a thicker grease so it does feel a little bit sticky and after experience you know what it feels like and sometimes right off the start you gotta get it going because you need to break that seal between a thick crease so what we're gonna do is we're gonna tarp one two three four five we're gonna leave thrust out go to seven make sure it spins nice every time we torque one we'll spin it to make sure it feels good for some reason if it tightens up we'll know what's that mean that time's up it's just doing it all and then come back and then we're going to set our trust so you don't start in the middle and work your way out no this crank shouldn't be touching those bearings in the top right okay because there is appearance for about three and a half minutes okay so by the math it will be touching and once this engine starts and oil pressure gets up it's not touching right it runs on the bed of wood okay now heads are a different story [Music] now we're going to set the thrust it's not too big on this one because you usually set the thrust when the upper and the lower have the same thrust bearing so that's a flange all you run this is only a half flanged bearing so that means just the bearing that's in the block has the thrust flange on it when you have one that's on the main cap you need to make sure those two flanges meet up and i usually i personally always use it or do it so that they align up to the pressure side of the crank so if the engine is standard it will be coming from the crank being pushed towards the front engine every time you put your foot on the clutch and push the yeah a lot of people don't get that but that does move if i was to set thrust or align those bearings from the front backwards and there happen to be an imperfection in that bearing well it would only touch half on the thrust and it would wear it out and that's when you get into a situation where burst thrusts yeah once you burn thrust just not usually end up having to weld that back up and re-grind it back down that situation when i get into this one fortunately we don't have to worry about that but uh i'm still gonna just give it a hit back and forth to make sure that bearing is in its position and then we will check with the specs to see what the end thrust is set up a dial indicator to make sure that we're within that spectrum [Music] now we'll do our 90. [Music] set up our dial indicator [Music] so we're looking about four and a half to five thousand trust three to nine thousand right on perfect okay so we're uh installing our total seal gapless rings uh this is a second groove gap this ring and what that means is that we actually have the second ring that has a little step in it which will install an outside ring with the gaps off 180 degrees apart which essentially will give us a total seal ring we'll start first with uh our first number one ring first groove what i like to do is i just like to pop them in and just hold the ring keep it sturdy pop it in flip it over and i do all six at the same time that way we don't get confused these are keystone rings so you have a sharp taper on both sides which is good for exhaust cat or internal pressures to push against the ring to pop back out more surface area fingers up so according to our specs we're allowed anywhere from sixteen to twenty five thousand gap so i like to see two thousand minimum so i like to be around my eighteenth now so i have my eighteen thousand gauge i have my sixteenth hour minimum just in case go ahead and check for graded 18. 18 18. everything's going in nice and smooth i'll just go to my 20 thou just to see if 20 thousands in to see where we're sitting at and twenty thou is tight so we're sitting about twenty thou and gap are you happy with that yeah you have to live with this yeah for the rest of your life what i do now to keep everything in order i i like to keep everything with the hole that i tested so now i'll put that there and don't worry all this stuff gets cleaned before you pop it on this will be ensure that i'm keeping those rings in that hole so it all goes back together properly and that will move to number two ring this is the gapless ring in some cases we have to file some cases we don't have to file okay number three see this is just a scrape ring so you can instantly feel the difference of installing them because there's no attention to it right right it's only sitting there to float to scrape the oil back down so the oil comes through the piston out the rings and then these have piston squirters on them okay um but it doesn't the gases make it back up the side of the skirt some pistons you'll see with holes and through the inside and that's allow the gas pressure to push up against the oil ring okay these ones are traveling up through here and that's why those cutter waves are in that it'll work its way around the inside of the ring to expand that out and still it's only there just to scrape the oil back down off the cylinder it's not there for any type of sealing or compression right like that that doesn't work with synthetic oils yes they want 12 now perfect perfect just a tiny little bit of drag but not holding me back nice great kit nice these things are staying on if you want to do more research on total seal you can uh get your own kit they like this was a kit set to us but if you've got rear engines or anything you can send them your rings and they will cut the groove in there and put the gapless on whatever rings you have so we're pretty numbered just like to keep everything in the same order as it came i almost feel like this engine was a recent rebuild but the other side of the engine you wouldn't think it was i did take all this and clean all the ring grooves nearly on it and then i re-etched the aluminum to bring it back to just add accordingly how do you do that i just have uh ashes it's almost like glueing okay for uh forged zooming and stuff like that that will bring these colors back in and it's just an extra heart it's almost like a hardness coating almost like an you can anodizing form it matches the color of the piston so what we're going to do is we're going to go in we'll install circlips on each one um it's pretty important on these circlips most people up here will know this and there's always a sharp side and a dull side to a circlip and you can just tell that by running your finger across it you can see that that has a curved side to it then you see that's a flat cut flat cut always goes out because that's what really wraps up or right so some people do things have their own ways of doing stuff but i like to always keep the clips pointing downwards [Music] so have you ever heard of don't lay the pistons on their sides i have heard stories like that especially with cranks they say not to lay cranks on their side it is true about cranks if i have one that has been sitting our customers brought in uh i can see that out of round okay uh check for straightness usually that once you stand it up on its end it'll uh form itself back within a day or two oh really i don't really understand that with a piston because all pistons today's pistons are cam ground so what that means is they're actually ground oval because the cooling in the pin because the size of it doesn't expand at the same rate yeah so like there's a lot of technology that's gone in pistons nowadays and that these are actually machined on oval so that when they warm up to temperature they become round and performed in the cylinder okay so as to leave in a piston i typically wouldn't leave a piston sitting outside anyway because it's going to roll away yeah and there's a perfect nice flat surface right there to sit it on [Music] it gets a little bit tricky i have pinponed all these after an engine has ran for a long period of time it will have marks and burrs especially for taking these circlips you will get some little birds in there too so the piston will slide through yep so i put it in the machine and i pin holed with all my machine to make sure that those pins all slide back for it nicely but to actually get that first initial square yeah it does get a little tricky sometimes and sometimes i i i'll just be a pain in the butt and i won't get it and i might have to go back and put the machine again but for the most part it should slide nice and easy if that pin doesn't slide in there nice and easy then you have problems both the pin and the rod should move freely on themselves you should never have to use a hammer to put the pin in or into the piston or into the rod even applications like dirt bikes and four wheelers and stuff like that only time that that is an issue is uh with a pressed piston so you press the pin into the rod on say a typical 350 chevy or 4302 on the piston so those pins still have to move nice and freely on that piston if they don't you're gonna have half the amount of time on the rod bearing because it's always stressing to go to the direction of thrust if it doesn't move freely then you're in big trouble yep cut the life out if you even get it on the road i do watch people on youtube that install some stuff with soft hammers and installing the pins with soft hammers but i never made comments [Laughter] because it's a tapered housing you kind of have to ride yeah see how nice it goes no problems let's find a sharp edge my hands are covered in this grease house they give it a little extra squeeze and just make sure it rocks inside that groove you can feel it while it pops in but i also want that clip to move freely too right because for some reason something's jamming up it could be a reason for the pin to jam up and if it doesn't get the proper rock people rod bearings fast there we go now trains there's lots of different theories out there there's lots of different ways of doing stuff i'm not saying one doesn't work or one does work we will lube these up the rings and everything very good i do know some people that dunk them a lot first um but i traditionally do a i don't want to have everything all over the place i do dry run first dry assembly because i want to check all my heights of the pistons and if there is an issue with the piston sitting too high or too low uh i can measure the pistons and cut the pistons to make sure they all match uh so right now we're just going to throw a set of rings on and uh typically when i install an engine i just cover everything with oil i don't have necessarily dunk them or soak them in a tub or like that i do use a generous amount of oil before install um but what we're gonna try is we're gonna try some of that new uh total seal ring i always put the gap on one side the opposite gap on the other side yep okay so for the second ring on now we're just going to start our groove from this side so step is down and the second part of the ring is on the bottom yep and they are tricky we may have to do this a couple times but we just uh put it underneath the groove there and kind of start it but then kind of i find if we roll the whole ring into the groove while we're bringing it around you gotta try to keep it up and really inspect that it stayed up on top of the rail if it slips past the groove you're gonna have some issues yeah yeah well but we should be able to just bring our fingernail and bring it up across but uh right now it looks like it's okay it moves nice and freely nice so there you just do the top ring top ring yeah it is labeled the top as well that's it nice [Music] welcome to the restaurant [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] 27. [Music] all right if you remember everything wrong with 3126 video we talked about the gasket in between the oil filter housing and the cooler um they like to blow out in between and send your unfiltered oil directly to the huey system and that's with the old felt gaskets they have a little silicone ring on there but even still these have been updated by cat for a steel one that in turn makes it last so that your unfiltered oil doesn't go all through your huey system which gets expensive so we also got steel one between the oil cooler and the engine block so one more thing to bulletproof our engine i have some gaskets for sale if you want those scott you can put those on ebay or whatever you want oh you kinked it oh it's so good stick [Music] [Music] i'll [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] uh all right so i'm an official northbound employee you know because i'm wearing a shirt but i took my two-week vacation because i'm allowed my vacation time that's my right how you paid so what'd you do while i was gone huh uh basically the full assembly got everything together uh you were here to check everything out with me stop the rings so you put the pistons in dry just to measure the protrusion yeah everything is with inspect i assembled the bottom end the rotating assembly i put all the gapping strings on use the total seal ring lube that they supplied to us okay uh great great product i'm probably gonna start buying that and adding it to my inventory and yeah now you see it put the oil pump on put all the torque color on start all the mains put the front cover on bell housing on and now we're on to the head right on you mentioned in the last video that there was the cam followers those bolts were a weak point i thought that was that this was the version of engine that had that weak point it's not we wouldn't i went through a cat service bulletin it didn't have it for this uh serial number of engine okay it's a different version of engine that i thought i just had it mixed up with a different engine right now this is just a single shim one thickness perforated steel gasket torqued down good to go right on all right so you guys know next video is going to be the head and then we will have it back in my shop all kind of looking pretty yellow paint do you want to paint it you want me to paint it i think i'll paint it maybe you pick you want a painting no it doesn't matter i can come here i'm an employee i can paint too i just where do you punch in no way this is a trust based environment next video is going to be the head um and lots of cool stuff going on with that we'll get in the injectors and the cups in that one um but she's coming together finally so um remember if you're not filthy you're not rich get out there work on it maybe maybe don't get filthy when you're working on my engine but so you guys should go get filthy because 18 and part

Channel: DEBOSS GARAGE

Views: 303,395

Rating: 4.9370432 out of 5

Keywords: obs f350 build, ford obs crew cab, ford cat diesel, ford caterpillar diesel, ford caterpillar conversion, caterpillar swap ford, f350 caterpillar swap, 3126 caterpillar engine swap, cat swapped ford, cat swapped pickup, cat swap into f 350, cat diesel swap, cat diesel, cat diesel pickup, cat 3126 swap, cat 3126e, cat 3126 in pickup, f350 cat, f350 cat engine, f350 cat swap, ford f 350 cat diesel, 7.2 cat 3126, cat 3126, cat 3126 rebuild, cat cylinder block

Id: XsMeH-nzcGA

Length: 57min 44sec (3464 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 31 2020