800+ Horsepower 17 Liter Caterpillar Diesel Engine Build from Start to Finish + 1973 Peterbilt

this is a customer's core engine it's a 6nz i'm going to be doing a complete bear block build on this one and it'll be going in a brand new 2020 peak glider when i get done with it the customer wants about 800 horsepower so i figured this would be a good one to do a video on it's going to be getting an acer crank which is laying right over there on that pallet i just wanted to show the core that i'm starting with i'm gonna get this torn down tonight get the block and the crank off to the machine shop and then when i get those parts back and i start putting it together you'll be seeing more of this almost done just got to pull the crank out and pull the liners out and then off to the machine shop i go all right so here i am about a month and a half later got the block and the crank back from the machine shop this is actually not the block from that 6n z core that i tore down this is an acer block that came out of my inventory that 16 z block was no good and i'll show you what happened to it here in just a second but this block got six upper inserts all six lowers all the water holes done so it's good to go there's the acer crank that's going in it of course it's been measured up and magged and polished and balanced here's the block i was originally going to use from that 6n z core that i tore down i think you can see that it's cracked from the pan rail going up about 6 inches i've seen that happen before more than once and i've got a theory on what causes it but i'm not 100 sure that i'm right and i don't want to speculate all right i've got my engine kit here so let me explain what this is before i go any further this is a fairly new product from ipd they're calling it a c15 big bore kit it uses a c15a cert bottom end so c15 acer crankshaft c15a cert rods and it uses that in combination with the same boar as the c18 so 5.7 or 5.71 inch bore with the six and three quarter inch stroke of the acer crank produces 17 liters of displacement so what you end up with is more or less a slightly d-stroke c-18 now obviously you're modifying the engine from its original design so these kits are only to be used in competition like i already told you this engine is going to be going in a brand new 20 20 peak lighter but this truck's not going on the highway uh hauling freight it's going to be a competition truck only it's going to be hauled around some truck shows stuff like that so it'll only ever be either in the show or on a track all right i've got my upper main bearings in everything's cleaned up i'm ready to drop the crank in it i've already been at this point once with this engine i got about two minutes into cleaning this crank up the last time getting ready to drop it in and i uh took a look at this flywheel alignment dowel right here and somebody had apparently tried to bolt the flywheel on the crank without having the flywheel aligned with the dowel and it effectively welded that dowel to the crank smashed it crushed it in there and there was no hope of me getting it out so i had to take the crank back to the machine shop they managed to burn it out there with a bolt burner did a real good job so got the dowel back in it now and i'm finally ready to go together [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] so [Music] so [Music] well i got the crank put in it last night before i quit i've got all the main bearing clearances checked and they're all good i've got the main caps torqued to the initial torque so they're all between 190 and 200 foot-pounds right now so the next thing i've got to do is put the final torque on the mains i've got to turn each main bolt 120 more degrees which is two flats and then i'll be completely done with the mains i've got the crank installed in this one and ready to go i don't have a cylinder head for this one just yet so this is as far as i'm going to go right at the moment i've got a greasy old mxs core over here i need to get torn down get the block in the crank off to the machine shop so i can build it and then hopefully in another day or two i'll have the cylinder head back for this and i'll be able to keep going with it [Music] [Music] i've got this acer core torn down so this block and crank is ready to go to the machine shop and i should be getting a cylinder head here pretty soon for this 17 liter over here so i'm gonna go back to work on it now i've been cleaning paint then off parts for what seems like hours here lately i don't know who the guy was that put this engine together before me but i wish his parents would have bought him a coloring book or something when he was a kid because he drew all over everything with paint pen but i've got a brand new spacer plate laying here i've got all my liners cleaned up got all the flanges measured i measure around each liner in four spots and that's just to make sure that the flanges are the right thickness and that they're all true all the way around so i'm going to get started setting this thing up as far as sticking the liners in the block checking protrusion well i've been playing music aligners and checking liner protrusion for the last couple hours now most guys probably don't spend that much time moving liners around but the customer expects it to be as good as it can possibly be and i believe i finally got this one there i've got five thousandth average protrusion across all six liners and all of my measurements all 24 of them are within one thousandth of each other so that's really really good all right the last liner is getting ready to go in the block i just got finished weighing the rods that are going in this engine and i've already weighed the pistons and piston pins so i'm going to start putting rod piston assemblies together now getting ready to put the last rod and piston together so i figured i'd give you a quick look at one of these pistons and these are 16-1 compression ratio last one these are the piston cooling jets or nozzles whatever you want to call them that you use with this 17 liter kit so the part number is 274 8359 these are c18 nozzles so it's the one on the left the one on the right is a regular old 14.6 liter 6n zc15 pretty much all the 14 6 liter engines nozzles look the same as that if you don't know a whole lot about this i'll show you where those piston cooling nozzles go they go right up in there and they spray oil on the bottom of the piston in a couple different places that's all there is to that spacer plate gasket spacer plate and all the seals are on it's completely ready to set the head on it all right here we go got the head sitting down on it and it's ready for head bolts here's another new product from ipd these are cryogenically frozen head bolts a cryogenically frozen head bolt is going to stay put better or it's going to retain its tightness better than a regular old stock cat head bolt wheel so they're just a higher quality head bolt so i've got the cylinder head final torque now each of these 26 bolts goes to 340 foot-pounds that's what i torque them to so these all torqued up really nice i didn't have any little squishy feeling you guys who do this all the time will know what i'm talking about but i'll definitely use those bolts again those are a good product i've got the front gear plate on the timing gears on got most all the plugs and fittings in the block and in the head that's a pretty time consuming process in itself you gotta find each fitting and reordering each one of them sand them all down clean them up really well a lot of time involved in building engines like this but i think i'm gonna stick the injectors in the holes now got them cleaned up and ready to go and i've gotta run and grab some parts and when i get back i should be able to put the front cover on and then the flywheel housing and keep going from there here's the new cam cat doesn't around when it comes to this blue these are a real treat to clean up well i've come a pretty long way since you've seen it last needless to say i'm not waiting on parts [Music] anymore but i've got the flywheel housing on got the rear main seal installed camshafts in the head i like to use acer water pumps on these higher horsepowered engines because they're a little bit bigger they move a little more water so they help with cooling some i've got the front cover on it just got to get the cam gear put on adjust backlash and then put the peanut cover on and then that'll all be 100 done got the cam gear torn apart over here well it's mostly back together now but i like to pull these apart and check these boards in here and make sure there's nothing terribly out around or no problems it won't be long now and this thing will be ready to go out there and steal some more greta's childhood i'm using the zero or seven six five two cam in this engine that's also the 3327308 so this is the can the caterpillar always uses to push 55 injectors these are 55 injectors so that's what i'm going to use got the flywheel on when you get ready to hang the flywheel on one of these get you a couple of bolts that mount the crank damper and pulley to the front of the crankshaft which is those right there cut the heads off of them cut one a little bit longer than the other that way you've only got to hit one at a time and then that'll give you guide studs and make it a whole lot easier to hang that flywheel on there i've got the cam gear on and torqued so obviously the engines in time got the backlash set on the adjustable idler gear front gear trains completely done now new fuel transfer pumps on so a few more parts and pieces to go on it but it won't be long and it'll be ready for paint brand new injector harness all right i'm working on this rear coolant bonnet getting it cleaned up and ready for paint let me show you what i just found this is the main passage from coolant coming from the water pump going into the block to cool the engine i mean this is a big piece that's a rag wedged down in that bonnet almost completely blocking the flow of water so do you think this engine was cooling very good i don't this is off that 6n z core that i tore down to build this 17 liter engine with and that core you could tell or i could tell when i was tearing it down i mean it had obviously been overhauled pretty recently i would say probably didn't have more than 100 000 miles on it but it just didn't look very good the head was cracked up worse than they normally are and um a few of the liners were scored up i mean it looked like it had been hot and it's no mystery why now i guarantee the whole time the guy had that engine and was running it he was trying to figure out why it ran so hot and probably had it back in the shop more than once nobody could figure it out well there you go finally got it out of there it was wedged in there pretty tight that's where the majority of the wedging action was happening got the thermostat housing cleaned up and ready to go together new thermostats new seals of course so that's a half and that's a half and they both together and then together that makes up the whole thermostat housing a cat calls it a regulator housing because they don't call them thermostats they call them regulators working on the engine oil filter base that's where the oil filter screws on right there these have these two plugs that go in them here and then behind each plug there's a spring and then on the end of each spring there's a plunger so i like to pull these apart put new springs in them you can see here the new springs are on the right and the old ones are on the left so that's how much springiness the springs have lost over the last 20 years or so and probably well over a million miles i've got the new plungers right here the plugs will get new o-rings take note of how much stuff gets done in a build like this that doesn't get done in a regular typical in-frame overhaul this is really not even comparable to an end frame this is a whole different deal way way more in depth and that's why it costs so much more to do it and take so much more time new oil pump last look at the bottom of the engine before the pan goes on this is a place where a lot of the ram and bang mechanics always have these bolts all screwed up so i've got them all back exactly the way they're supposed to be all the right bolt links everywhere and all the right washers just like it came out of the factory got a brand new cattle oil pan for this one got all new hardware i'll give you the part numbers on this stuff because i know i'm probably going to get asked this is for c15 pan only uh 3406 e pan is going to be different but the bolts are 0l 2070 you got to have 24 of those the washers are a 9l 9132 you got to have 24 of those and then the sleeves are 240 16 14. you got to have 24 of those the bolts and washers are fairly cheap the sleeves cost a little bit total price on all this stuff the bolts the washers and the sleeves is about 200 i've got the oil pan on it and it's pretty much ready for paint really nothing left to do got a few little spots to sand but other than that it's ready new vipertech crank damper i'm getting ready to pull it out of the box and get it ready for paint all right i've got it primed that's cat genuine primer and then it's going to get a couple coats of cat genuine top coat next first coat of top coats on it i just put the fuel filter base on and i'm getting ready to spray another light coated top coat to finish it up so i'll get that fuel filter base and then the front of the damper is the only other thing that's completely bare paint right now the paint's completely done now there's a lot of stuff like this that's not a run or anything that was dirty when it got painted that's just the way these castings are you got to remember this is just a big heavy duty diesel engine they don't make these to look pretty so all the castings are kind of rough it's just the way it is i'm rebuilding the jakes right now i'll show you the kit for these jakes real quick so this is the kit for the 340 series jake break and this is actually the jake brake brand kit there is also a caterpillar kit that comes in a cat box with cat part number it's the exact same kit exact same parts the only difference is it comes in a cat box you would prefer to buy the jake brake brand kit because it's going to be a little bit cheaper than the cat one you can get these at any dealership peterbilt kenworth whatever so don't buy one of these kits thinking that you're going to get all the internal parts inside the housing you're not it doesn't come with the pistons and push rods and stuff like that it's just what you see right here so you're going to get the seals for the solenoid valves some new screws for these retainer plates you're going to get most of the springs inside but not all of them and then control valves these are pretty simple to do they come with an instruction book one of the things you really want to look at when you're doing these is the condition of these bores you want to make sure that they're nice and smooth like these are if you get one that's all scored up you've got a junk housing so you want to check those out really well and then you want to look at your pistons too and make sure that they're not all scored up and keep all this stuff clean when you're putting it back together there's pretty tight tolerances between these pistons and these bores lube them up with some clean engine oil and keep everything clean if you get a bunch of dirt and down in there it's going to eat your housings up you don't have to have the fancy tool to do these to push these washers back down in here there's two springs behind that washer that that socket's pushing on they're under quite a bit of tension there and you've got to push that back down in there in order to get the snap ring back in that snap ring groove so they make a fancy tool you don't have to have it a c-clamp and a socket's plenty good enough so i've got here just a cheap c-clamp a cheap three-quarter inch socket i put a rag in between the c-clamp and the housing on this side that protects the housing from the c-clamp and then just screw it down in there slowly make sure everything's lined up and then you can stick your snap ring in and you're good to go okay you can see that i've got the snap ring in now so all i've got to do is let the tension off this c clamp that washer is going to come up against the snap ring and then just make sure the snap ring is seated in its groove all the way around that's all there is to it well i just got done putting the kit in the last jake housing they call out a tune-up kit by the way i did notice that my sweet tea tastes a whole lot like brake cleaner now but no big deal so i guess now it's time to bolt the rocker arms rocker shafts and jake housings onto the head and around the overhead this one's getting all brand new cat rocker shafts and all brand new cat reman rockered arms a lot of money being spent here while i'm on the topic of top end stuff i'm going to show you a few more things i'm going to talk about the updated bolts that hold the rocker shafts and jake housings to the head so any of these engines uh pre-acert engines any 3406e or pre-acer c15 would have came out of the factory with all four bolts being like the one on the right so comparing these two you can see that the bolt on the right's got a thinner shank it necks down right there and then it's thinner all the way down than the bolt on the left so the bolts on the right these thinner bolts the final torque spec on them is 80 pounds they later came out with these bolts on the left which is a heavier thicker shank bolt bathroom door is closing on its own no big deal so the bolts on the left torque to a higher torque spec i'll get into the torque specs on these in a minute but let me show you why that's important this is a rocker shaft that came out of this core engine the 6n z core that i tore down to build this engine and these are significantly worn i mean you can see that ridge with your eyes right there that's not supposed to be there that's supposed to be the same thickness all the way across so these shafts are significantly worn and the reason for that is that they were never updated to the heavier bolt like they should have been so if you're running one of these engines you need to insist that it gets updated to these heavier bolts it's no big deal it only costs like 30 or 40 dollars and takes just a few minutes um what happens with these thinner bolts that torque to a lower torque spec is these rocker shafts will walk around a little bit and this is the result it wears your rocker shafts out and not only does it do that but it also wears and frets the saddles in the cylinder head the part number for the updated bolts is 257 2122 and you need nine of them you're probably wondering why you only need nine of them because there's four bolts that hold each rocker shaft down and there's three rocker shafts so why don't you need 12 so let me show you okay remember that the older bolts have a thinner shank coming down than the updated bolts do the reason that you only need nine of the updated bolts is because you still have to use one of the old style thinner bolts in the third hole back in each jake housing the reason for that is that's the oil supply hole to the jake housing so the oil passes around that thinner shank bolt and goes into the housing and if you put one of those thicker shank bolts in that hole it's not going to get supplied with oil like it needs to i'll talk about the torque specs on these bolts now you'll be able to find a couple different versions of these specs depending on where you look but i go with jake brake specs they're the tightest that i've seen and i'm not telling you that you need to over torque this stuff but i can tell you that you're going to be better off with it being a little bit too tight than it being too loose you don't want this stuff coming loose all right you may have two studs if you've got an old 348 jake housing you may have two studs here if you've got a 340b or newer you'll just have one but i torque the studs and i'm talking about the stud itself not the nut but the stud that goes down into the cylinder head to 65 foot-pounds and then when you get that installed in the head the way that you're supposed to torque these jake housings you're supposed to start in the center so start with either one of those two bolts then you go to the nut and then you go to the outer two bolts and that's the torque sequence and you're supposed to do it in two steps so by the jake brake specs that i go by you go to 50 foot pounds first you go 50 50. 50 50 and 50. and then you come back and these old style bolts are only supposed to go to 80 foot pounds so you take that one to 80 foot-pounds and you're done with it it lists two specs in the same publication for these newer to updated bolts it shows them that they're supposed to go to 110 on one table and then it gives instructions on torquing them and it tells you to torque them to 50 foot-pounds first and then an additional 90 degrees so that's what i do that typically gets you around 120 foot-pounds so like i said i like this stuff to be tight so that's what i go by you'd be fine at 110 too but i go 50 foot pounds plus 90. so you've got this one at a final torque of 80. you're gonna go 90 degrees there after the initial 50 foot pounds same thing on the nut you initially torqued it to 50 now turn it 90 degrees and then get your outer two of course they're already again at 50 so you're gonna go 90 degrees there 90 degrees there and like i said that usually gets you to about 120 on these updated style bolts i'm going to talk about one more thing real quick then i'm going to put this together on the overhead and i'm not coming back in here i hope so the next time you see it it'll have valve covers on it but when i did that video on the camshaft swap in my truck i said i was going to be making a video about running the overhead on one of these and i changed my mind i'm not going to do that because there's already a pretty good video on youtube it's by a guy his username is your girlfriend's mechanic so if you'll search that you'll be able to find the video he's got a video on there about running the overhead on a 3406 e so it's basically the same for any 3406 e or pre-acer c15 and he did a pretty good job it's not perfect but it's it's pretty good but anyway if you're wanting to learn how to run your own overhead you can go watch that video get yourself a manual you can get them online search around jump on ebay whatever you can buy them on cd for a little bit of nothing and uh if you've got a basic understanding of first of all you need to understand what it means to run the overhead and why you're doing it and if you understand the relationship between the crankshaft the camshaft and the valves watch his video get yourself a manual you're not going to have any trouble if you don't understand what's going on here and you don't have at least that basic knowledge of what you're doing it's probably better if you don't even attempt to run your own overhead in his video he uses the damper bolts to turn the engine over and that works fine there's nothing wrong with that you can do that if you have to but i'd recommend you go ahead and get yourself a turning tool it goes in right there it's going to make turning the engine over a whole lot easier this is the turning tool it's a 9s 9082 you can get that at any cat dealership or you can jump online and get an aftermarket one cheaper i'm sure one thing he does not show in his video is how to adjust the jakes that's another reason that you're gonna need the manual i'm gonna quit rambling about this now and put this engine together if i don't this video is gonna be six hours long all adjusted up and ready to go this is what a diesel engine's supposed to look like this is from back in the days when they were still simple they had just the right amount of electronics on them sure is a shame what the government's done to this new stuff went out into the corona danger zone earlier which is the local walmart and got about 10 gallons of oil so i'm gonna dump that in here while the valve covers are off and then go get the new valve covers well they're not new they look new bolt them on and the top end is completely done got the valve covers on it brand new full tilt manifold these are good manifolds this is my choice of manifold for these engines and go ahead and get the hardware kit with them the studs and spacers and all that it's worth it i've never had any problems with these breaking studs off i don't think you'll ever have problems with them as long as you get the studs centered up in the holes like they're supposed to be sometimes they do require a little bit of adjustment but it's no big deal but anyway i'm going to get the turbo put on and then that side's pretty much finished i've got the air compressor already on all the lines that go to it there's a couple sensors yet to go the wiring harness and the ecm and that's pretty much it i've got a brand new ecm out there i'm getting ready to go flash i'll get all that rest of that stuff put on and the next time that you see it it'll be pretty much finished i'm gonna put a modified 7cz file in this one to start with and we'll see what it does i'll be talking to the owner of the truck when he gets it put together and we'll go from there we may end up changing it or we may not just have to see what happens all right it's finished the rest of the turbo's not here yet but the customer's going to go ahead and come get the engine and then when that shows up i'll i'll get it to him and he can bolt it on so this is how it's going to leave while i'm thinking about it ipd also has kits coming out for the small pin engines or what they call the small pin engines which is the pre-acer engines so the 3406es 6nz mbn c15 and even the 15.8 liter cranks too i believe they've got a kit coming out for them to convert all them to a 5.71 inch bore so you'll be able to take a regular old 14.6 liter e model or you know six 6n0 mb and c15 and convert those to a 5.7 one inch or two using the stock 14.6 liter crank and that brings them on up to somewhere around 16 liters of displacement i don't know the exact figures but it's somewhere pretty close to 16. and of course any of those kits are to be used off-road only this is a voice over i've only got about a minute 40 here so i've got to talk fast but i wanted to talk about a few of the youtube channels that i like to watch and these aren't the only people that i watch these are just some of the ones that come to mind but zip ties and buy supplies of course i don't know how i went as long as i did without finding his channel but it's definitely some of the most entertaining stuff on youtube there's no doubt about that if you like to watch a guy actually turn wrenches i know my videos are more show and tell type videos some people like that some people don't but if you want to see a guy actually turning wrenches go watch warren on western truck and tractor repair he's a really good mechanic probably the best i've ever seen as far as being able to work on pretty much anything there is um jeff on jay paydirt he's been messing with a few 1693 cat truck engines here lately if you don't know the 1693 is kind of the first big cat the one that started it all and he's real sharp on those old cats and there's a couple guys restoring old pete's that i watch one of them's 359 twin sticks or i think it's twin stick garage now and then there's another guy easy rider so if you'll search easy rider peterbilt you'll find him but he's restoring an old 359 too and that guy's real talented he can do a lot of stuff check out our dump truck 6v92t all right go so um [Applause] [Applause] ah um we went all the way to oklahoma city to get this piece i have no idea what we needed it for but it sure is cool [Applause] [Music] [Music] um

Channel: KT3406E

Views: 1,242,876

Rating: 4.8303165 out of 5

Keywords: KT3406E, Diesel, Engine, Diesel Engine, Diesel Rebuild, Diesel Overhaul, Caterpillar, Cat Diesel, Engine Overhaul, Engine Rebuild, 3406 Cat, 3406E, 3406E Cat, C15 Cat, C-15 Cat, Caterpillar C15, Caterpillar C-15, Peterbilt, Kenworth, Detroit Diesel, Two Stroke Diesel, 2 Stroke Diesel, 2 Stroke Detroit, Two Stroke Detroit, Caterpillar Diesel, Caterpillar Overhaul, Caterpillar Rebuild

Id: MX3JfU-6k8E

Length: 43min 39sec (2619 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 06 2020