2019 USA Climbing: Bouldering Open National Championship | Women's Qualification Round

[Music] in the shadow of the three sisters in the Cascade Mountains the sport of climbing returns home the state of Oregon and the Deschutes County Fair and Expo Center where the top climbers in the United States are set from the qualifying round of the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national champions thank you for joining us everybody i'm shawn living alongside former United States national team member megin Martin and in 2020 the sport of climbing will be featured at the Summer Olympics in Tokyo and today's event is just the second step on what is a long road for these athletes of the Summer Games exactly it's a very important step because these athletes are trained to earn a spot on the US national overall team which will allow them to compete internationally and have a shot at qualifying for the 2020 Olympics and all three climbing disciplines will be featured in Tokyo you have speed you have sport and then you have the discipline that we will be watching today and that's bouldering exactly so for bouldering these climbers haven't seen any of the problems they have five Boulder problems that they have to climb in only four minutes on each one they haven't got to share any information that can't watch anybody and the goal is to get to a stop to get as high as they can on each folder on as many as they can higher you go the more points you get 53 women are in the field right now we will narrow that down to 20 the qualifying round coming up next [Music] the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championships brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 Redmond Oregon for the next two days will be the home of the best climbers in the United States the qualifying round up first in the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open at national championships and it's going to be Ciara Blair Coyle who will be first to take on problem number one the first of five problems with these women will be facing and Meagan you got some time to spend on the wall yesterday before this competition started what you think of the problems the challenges that faces I think the route centers did a really good job on the women's problems as they did on the men's and really challenging a lot of different skill sets none of the problems are the same they're very different so you're gonna have people do one problem and maybe not do as well and another one as you can see on this first problem you can see the 5-10-15 zones that are very important you need one hand control in order to get the zone and then the top hold which is twenty five you need two hands on in order to get the top and obviously these women are gonna be trying to get as many tops as possible but yeah I think it's gonna be really exciting to show and we're gonna see some big jumps difficult technical movement a lot of variety which is exactly what the route centers want so they can challenge these athletes this will be a complete test for the 53 women who will take to the floor here in this opening qualifying round at least twenty will move on to the semifinal round that will be contested tomorrow than the top six from the semifinal round will move on to the finals in ceará blair Coyle getting her very first look at problem number one sierra is definitely a very good slab climber a very technical climber some people call it the slab queen sometimes nice little nickname what's interesting about this specific problem is it's kind of not very obvious how to get to the five so we might see people try a few different ways and then what I thought was very interesting about the whole problem in general was after you get to the 15 you think it's over by looking at it but it's actually really difficult to stand on that large volume foot Claire will make her way towards the first zone that's the five-point zone and then she'll try to advance beyond that but as you said Meghan getting to five is gonna be trickier than maybe these athletes think it's just not very obvious so it might take a couple tries but luckily if you have to have a few Falls at the beginning it's not the worst thing and that was a dynamic approach which is definitely possible but she might also have to try and do it more static we'll just have to see what she ends up doing but definitely not obvious and it's always a little difficult when the first climb isn't so obvious cuz you want to you want to start off the round in a nice spot static beta was the way she has the five now Claire will get to five this is her I'm sorry Sierra Claire Boyle will get Blair Coyle I'll get that right have all day to work on that one we'll get to the number five zone the five points out and I'll make her way to number ten and athletes will get docked a tenth of a point for every attempt it takes to get them to their highest point a perfect score of 25 means as you got to the top on your very first attempt looking really smooth here as I would predict she has plenty of time this is where it gets a little uncomfortable she got the 15 she just switched her hand so she's just trying to figure out the best place in order to do this really weird slow move very nicely the Oh foot slip slip for Ciara Blair coil but she has plenty of time left and looks like she's starting to figure this thing out exactly now she at least knows that it's not over after the 15 that last move is definitely something she can't take lightly one more look at the slip from Blair coil she had a good foot position and then when she went to try to move it she just kind of lost her balance because that foot hold is extremely slippery you'd never feel comfortable on it this is her third attempt just trying to make sure she can do it the same way she did it the first time that's another thing sometimes you kind of forget what you did to get to a specific spot on the boulder so you just hope you can remember exactly what you did get back to so get to five now looking at the 10-point zone and on to 15 which is where she tripped up two attempts ago less than a minute to go 39 seconds just needs to find a good foot placement there there's a tiny screw hole in that hold that can be helpful to stand and you see she's trying to kind of get her foot in there hoping her foot will stay this time now she really just has to be pop and that's the top for Ciara Blair coiled up with a top on problem number one and she gets a little extra rest so I have four minutes before she has to take on problem number two and that will bring out Kyra Conde who will be the second woman to face problem number one Kyra one the combined invitational that was held two weeks ago in Salt Lake City you were there for that what you what impressed you the most about her performance er I was mostly impressed by just how well she handled the pressure she's been treating really hard and all three disciplines recently so I was just really glad that all her training clearly paid off now swab is not exactly her favorite she definitely is good at it but it's not her favorite nicely getting to the five though on her first try her first attempt right now so she's already off to a good start now she'll make her way towards the ten point zone graduated from the University of Minnesota started climbing when she was 11 years old at her original home gym vertical endeavors in st. Paul and she gets 215 just this slippery foot same problem that we saw with Ciara Blair Coyle there yeah it's it's interesting because often times you kind of look at something you think oh that's not gonna be that big of a deal but that foot is just so slippery and you just never feel comfortable on it so you almost even when you get the next hold you kind of feel like you're falling the whole time so she just needs to figure out a way to trust the foot and move quick enough to get back to the 25 but she has plenty of time very good progress on her first attempt this is attempt number two for Kyra Conde her style has been described as reckless abandon what is exactly does that mean when you watch her climb she just has a a tendency to move very quickly on the wall I mean she's already on her second attempt and she still has over two minutes I think that's a good gauge of how quickly she moves but I feel like she does move with purpose and she is extremely strong extremely talented and it just works for her it's her style she's got a place that foot if she can find a little screw hole in the volume I think if she can get herself just if she can see it and place her foot in it I think it gives you a little more support than just pasting the foot on the volume because it is so slippery the screw hole right there we zoomed in because if you can get your toe you can kind of pull yourself over a little and then just kind of hop to the finish a lot of precision involved here in this first problem look at what she's trying to hit it really helps this is her third attempt if she doesn't top this Boulder I don't think it will hurt her that much there's a lot of other boulders that will suit her well now she doesn't know that yet and obviously she's trying to top as many as she can so it looks a little better this time and she's gonna get it 25 for Conde although she will get docked for her additional attempts with a solid opening effort so 2 for 2 so far no problem number one the qualifier round continues when we return back inside the Deschutes County Fair and Expo Center the qualifying round for the women under way in the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship we have Margot Hayes on the left in the all black and Sierra Blair coil on the wall Margot Hayes with her opening run at problem number one both women actually took about a minute before they even got on the wall Margot is some really interesting beta see if she can make it work on number one Oh almost Ciera setting up for this very delicate but step in that you have to do looks like she's gonna try to bypass she really needs to press against that hold and bring her foot in and then you're kind of in a weird position and this is the coordination move so Blair coil off the wall you saw her score twenty four point seven on problem number one she got to the top there Margot Hayes is trying to match that on problem number one having trouble getting through the opening part of this boulder like I was saying before about number one it's not really obvious if you're supposed to go static or dynamic Margot just took a dynamic approach we'll see if she changed her mind and go static static seems to be the easier way to do that for opening move but she just did a dynamic anyway really cool climbing there from Margot Hayes she is at the five points own and now looking upward at the 10 and 15 points owns syrup' Blair coil on the right getting to the five point zone on problem number two and now working her way to the 10-point zone able to get that coordination move in there this move is one of the more powerful moves there's a pretty powerful release here Margot Hayes will top problem number one get yourself a minute plus of additional rest time Ciera Blair coil trying to figure things out here she tries to get to the top of problem two and she will do it's a two-four two-four Ciara Blair coil with three problems remaining for her in the qualifying round Margot hasteth once she got past that opening part seem to make very quick work of problem number one Kleber find is in the green stretching out and getting ready she has to sit with her back to the problem when the athletes come out here they don't get to look at the problems until it is their turn to climb she has 15 seconds before she will get to take a look and start to read problem number one generally everyone waits there for the countdown to then like grab a brush and turn around and look at the boulder and start brushing burr find on problem one Kyra Conde in the black is on problem number two though she hasn't seen anybody she can hear the crowd so I'm sure she already knows that says Boulder problem is doable so it's one that she should do burr find one of those athletes whose wingspan is longer than her height she's actually one of the taller competitors in the competition so we'll sometimes see her do things a little differently than some of the other climbers who are a bit shorter trying to figure out how to get to the spy zone in the right position to get to the five Tyra Conde meanwhile in the center of your screen in the black looking if you get to the five point zone of problem number two twenty four point eight points in problem one and she is off the wall when with a very dynamic approach there she didn't I'm not sure she realized that she needed to kind of press against the other hold to bring her foot in first we refined us to the 10-point zone and this is where we have seen the athletes have problems putting their left feet on that Macarius hold she moves quickly oh she will flash problem one gets through it on her very first attempt so a perfect score of 25 for clarified that's every athlete who has taken the floor has gotten the top of problem number one really nice foot placement there was able to reach over to this left hand prim and really pull her body weight to the right in order to be able to walk across the volume easily and get to the top solid starts for clarifying Kyra Conde still on problem number two just trying to figure out how she can get to the five in control good effort just needs to figure out how to that she needs to press against that hold and bring her foot in before she starts moving it's another one of those situations where it's not exactly so obvious you just really need to find yourself in the right position in order to make it work Toddie quickly back on the wall one minute 30 seconds remaining for her we saw Ciara Blair coil reached the top of this boulder condi just hung up on that transition there as she tries her work her way towards a ten-point zone she's definitely progressing into the almost position she knows she needs to get her foot over there but she can't quite find the right position to do so hopefully she's able to figure it out before her time and different approach here seems to be paying off for Cairo condi could work I did think about this now she's trying to work her way out of a jam she's doing different beta so different information for the climb didn't seem to work so maybe she'll go back to her original way she really needs to get some points on this boulder time of the essence now for Kyra Conde 30 seconds remaining see if she can figure out a way doesn't look like it's gonna happen for Kyra Conde baby a few seconds to make one last attempt quickly back up on the wall and slipping again at this point really she just needs to get the five because I'm sure they haven't given her control of that yet so any point would help right here actually that should be control the points for Kyra Conte although she cannot get to the top we'll have more action from the qualifying round from Redmond Oregon next day one of the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship continues here in Redmond Oregon three women on the wall as Brooke rabbit two on the far left of your screen her brother also competing here today is working her way towards the top of problem number one and then closest to the camera isn't Sierra Blair coil she is on problem three she has gotten to the top of the first two of five problems here in this qualifying round mario trying to figure out Oh unfortunately coming out off on the top hold of problem number two Brooke rabbit ooh right here trying to figure out how to stand on this delicate volume I think she just put her toe in the t-nut hole or the screw hole gonna easily make it to 25 fourth straight athlete we have seen get to the top of problem number one Brooke rabbit ooh now with plenty of rest before she takes on problem - one more look at Margot Hayes and the problem she had getting to that 25 zone she was able to get one hand on but she couldn't quite find the body position in order to match it is kind of a precarious match to hold that you're finishing on is an amazing so you need to make sure your body in the right position in order to be hands on there unlike the other zones where you just need to show one hand control 25 the top you need to have both hands on in order to get credit for it she has twenty four point eight points after her effort on problem number one figuring out that oh wow skipping the 5-time Hayes is back off the wall meanwhile Ciara Blair Coyle continuing to work on problem number three trying to use her knee getting the 10 just to figure out how she can get over here folding that body tension [Music] unfortunately she won't get control of the 15 but able to get to the 10 final seconds so for the first time in her qualifying round Sarah Blair coil will not make it to the top of a problem really seeing good diversity here from the boulders in terms of technical and versus powerful Alex Puccio number six taking the floor for the first time known for being one of the strongest climbers of all time she was third overall in the World Cup bouldering competition back in 2011 but this woman has quite a few accomplishments on her resume that are extremely impressive I mean she is our 11 time US bouldering national champion so definitely some serious credentials from her she is quickly on problem number one we have seen every athlete who has taken to the floor so far get to the top of this problem Alex just trying to figure out exactly how she can get to the number five we've seen a bunch of the women try a more dynamic approach to start off with because you know in recent years we've there's been a lot more running and jumping in the boulder problem so it's always a good approach to take to start off Claire Brewer find off the wall on problem number two she flashed problem number one for a perfect score of 25 now Puccio still having some problems getting to the five-point zone there's about to give another attempt on number two trying to figure out a way to make the way to the five Tyra Conde in the black tights and black top on the right of your screen she's on problem number three and Puccio struggling a little bit here I'm problem number one and burr find off-the-wall on problem number two and that leaves Kyra Conde is the only woman climbing right now one thing that is noticeable about this round of Boulder problems is there's a lot of places where you can just accidentally slip so efficiency is gonna be super key for success on these Boulder problems Connie to 15 now looking at 25 right hand as their left hand is there so Kyra Conde getting to the top of problem number three and she needed that after scoring just five points on problem two back to Puccio on problem one and she is found to hold on the five-point zone definitely has enough time to finish this Boulder problem just really gonna have to trust her feet up there and out of the ten points own let's see if she can figure out the foothold oh very nice Malik's Puccio no problem Grouch Cuchillo and she makes it to the top struggled at the bottom of this problem but once she got past that five point zone making quick work of everything else and she will get five minutes of rest before she will take on problem number two solid opening for alec Puccio Claire burr find is now on problem number two looking to get to the top after a perfect run on problem number one and running out of time to get there setting up nicely for this cross move definitely has enough time to finish this folders just needs to stay calm oh I don't even know if she saw the foot out right sometimes you end up getting a little frazzled then you don't see everything their fur fine will not make it to the top of problem two but still a good effort for her she has three problems remaining here in the qualifying round for the women 53 women starting in the field at least 20 will move on to the semi-finals those will be contested tomorrow and then the top six from the semi-finals move on to the final round how doesn't it tell you I'm sorry to tell you Grossman is on the floor right now that is Brooke rabbit to Natalia Grossman in the background in the gray top to stamping on before getting sent for problem number one as there are four climbers on the wall valia girls wouldn't at a boulder colorado a another woman who has been part of that ABC team team ABC dynasty she's another athlete who really enjoys the technical slab climbing so I'm sure when she turned around and saw this time she was very excited to see it so we'll see already looking like she's smoothly walking through this beginning section Brook rabbit ooh on problem number two twenty four point nine on problem one and the slip rings her off on that attempt she almost was able to save it looks like she kind of has the right idea Natalia Grossman is to the five-point zone on problem one and now easily to the ten and fifteen just has to make sure she places her feet nicely really nice and smooth alia Grossman gets the top of problem one Ciara Blair coil falling off their on problem number three for her to make that problem for in the top for Margot he's on problem number three Margot Hayes looking solid so far she top problem number one had 15 on problem too and now a top four her on problem three Burke rabbit ooh on problem number two plenty of time for Brooke to figure out this section it's just not very obvious but once you kind of figure it out I think it's possible to make it through very nicely done by Brooke she just needs to do this coordination move definitely in a type of move that she's good at and she did it with ease rabisu get into the 10-point zone and now staring at 15 and she will make that one left for rabbit to just saw the foot out right which is gonna be very helpful as you can kind of see that that last hold is kind of sloping so unfortunately it's just one hand on it time so probably try it again setting up for that double clutch here at 6 at that time flare coil to the 10-point zone on problem 4 out of 15 this last move is just a little scary but another top for Sierra Blair coil three of the four obstacles she has gotten to the top and she has just one remaining one problem remaining rabbie - is off on problem number two more to come from the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship for Redmond Oregon [Music] qualifying round continues as Kyra Conde one of the fastest runs we've seen from the men or women today about 30 seconds to get to the top here on problem number two about before pardon me for Kyra Conti off screen alex Puccio just was able to talk woman's number two after struggling with the beginning for a little bit Kyra Conti is going to get a lot extra rest thanks to that effort she has just one problem remaining so every athlete so far has gotten to the top of problem number one and it's early we are going to advance the top 20 but when you can flash one of these boulders that is HUGE as far as helping your standings overall the flash is always huge the goal is to do things in as few tries as possible and you just really want to have that 25 point as often as you can and even if you don't top you want to be able to flash to your high point so say you only get 15 but if it was 15 on your first try that's definitely more ideal because it just comes down to fall sometimes Kyra Conti has gotten to the top of three of the four obstacles and the fact that she flashed problem 4 is huge because she only received five points on problem number two so she needed that effort she's going to need a solid effort on the fifth and final problem as well to get a solid spot inside that top 20 the flash will definitely help her it also save her a lot of energy going into the fifth and final folder problem so every athlete is gonna try to conserve as much energy as they can't because five Boulder problems with only four minutes and four minutes of rest is quite exhausting women are getting ready to step up to the boulder soon with ten seconds left tell your Grossman already has her brush ready make sure the holes are nice and sticky and you mentioned in me having been in this position you'll four minutes sounds like a lot but as a competitor when you're looking at this thing for the first time you have to take into account it's gonna take you some a few seconds to figure that thing out so the more time you can save yourself up front and be prepared the better off you're going to be yeah you need as much time as possible and especially on the problems that are a little longer it really limits your amount of tries so you want to be as prepared as possible sirrah Blair coil on her fifth and final problem so far she has topped three of the four who were score was 9.8 and that was on problem number three climbers on all five problems Ciara Blair coil obviously the furthest is she is on the fifth and final problem seeing a cop is on problem number one and she's getting close to making that transition to the 25 point zone she lost her bounds for a second but she was able to fix it in order to now get two hands on the coffee table we'll take a second to enjoy the view and then hop off see it to the top bar go haze has just topped problems on the floor as Sarah Blair royal working on her fifth and final problem this move coming up is pretty cool because you kind of have to stand up and press into that volume so you have to trust your feet and kind of do a somewhat coordinated movement into it stand up kind of like a dynamic one-legged squat steer Plurk well looking at number 10 they're trying to get a solid hole to get credit for those points really trying to be efficient here she doesn't want to waste a try so you see she's just trying to figure out how she can commit nicely done she will get to the 10-point zone and now it's across the 15 [Music] another really committing mood she has to put her foot on a very tiny foothold and then kind of throw her body into a press on this 15th own not necessarily the hardest move but very committing and if you hesitate could really throw you off you see she's trying to get the courage to commit it over here [Music] and then decides to come up I don't know if she thought she was done but she was she did think she was done and she was a little confused I thought that they called her off but I thought she was checking to make sure she had control but did not see the 25-point zone it is around the corner so that could be costly for Sierra blur coil already has three tops and now another attempt definitely a mistake you don't want to make but she may have enough time to get back up there really unfortunate costly mental error for Sierra Blair coil definitely looks a little more flustered now - just trying to get back up to that position gets to 15 until 15 seconds to work her way towards 25 she will do it Sierra bueno overcomes the mental effort the mental mistake I should say and a great effort to get herself back on the wall and back to the top so for tops for Sierra Blair coil in this qualifying round and looking like we will see her tomorrow in the semi-finals everybody has their brushes out how you can really tell a seasoned competitor fair burr fine just putting her brush down she is on problem for and then on the right of your screen is kind of a condi here we have Alex Puccio on women's number three she's very dynamic and powerful climber I don't expect this folder problem to give her any trouble Puccio top problem number one she flashed problem the two getting all the way to the top on just one attempt now the 10-point zone is hers two more to go till she gets at the top this has to be careful with her foot placement here because that volume is slippery does it very nicely applying proper amount of pressure to the volume in order to keep her feet on moose slap in there onto the one hand just needs to no problem for Alex Puccio her second flash of the qualifying round on problem for while we were watching Alex Puccio Claire burr find getting to the top on that Boulder [Music] Claire was able to nicely get a telephone number for Tyra with the top of number five Tyra tuck handi close now with a great effort a top on four of the five problems at five points of problem number two her worst score which he overcomes that nicely three straight top to close things out of the qualifying round for her it looks like that score might not hurt her too much definitely not ideal as more people are being successful here we have Makayla here Sean number two looking like she's in a good position to top just has to find the right foot placement everyone keeps wanting to go with their right hand here but it kind of throws you off won't be able to get there still has a bit of time so it's possible Chloe cos boy is on the left with a top now for women's number one good effort for Chloe cos boy on her opening a sent four problems left for her and she looks to be one of the at least 20 women moving on to the semifinal round and will be contestant tomorrow's we admit now the one minute mark in this four-minute window okay like here's hoping she has enough time to get back into that position to get her hands on top of 25 she kind of just went with the wrong hand that time hopefully she figures it out should have enough time to get there trying to work her way over to that 10-point hole does that move the static way actually we've seen a lot of people do it in a more dynamic and coordination way we'll be able to make it but we'll have more action from the opening round here coming up next the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championships continue at the Deschutes County Fair and Expo Center Sean woodland alongside Meagan Martin and we are well into the qualifying round for the women here's a look at Margot hate setting up for the finish hold on problem 5 just needs to get her other hand up there very nicely done Margot Hayes will make it closing out her qualifying round with the top she will top four of the five problems the only problem she did not top problem - but she was able to score 15 points in the process Quinn Mason getting to the top of problem number one Siena cop in the blue is on problem 2 and that is Brooke rabbits you on problem forks still getting hung up on that transition as she makes her way from 5 to 10 she's definitely one of the smaller climbers so this jump is kind of big for her Natalia Grossman coming off earlier trying to get to the 15 so she's trying to make her way back up there this is problem three for Natalia Grossman she got to the top on problem one and them was only able to get to the 15-point zone on problem - oh so close to the 15 there like we saw with the men if you were watching earlier problem two seems to be the toughest challenge for these climbers so far Brook rava - on for getting to the top there with plenty of time to spare try to figure out how she can get some more points on problem 2 here slowly inching towards the 5 now she has to work her way across to 10 and then up to 15 and finally 25 30 seconds to go as the 15 just has to see if she can get her body in the right position to finish this tricky finishing move on Boulder number 2 trying to mantle here kind of blinking her waking up looks like it's working though final seconds just needs to can't you get to Oh can't get her left hand to match using all four minutes just can't quite get there but one top and then a near miss on problem to four Siena cop Alex Cuchillo sizing up the jump there on women's number four middle of your screen is Alex Pucci oh she's on problem number four Puccio has topped every problem so far and flashed two of them in the process kind of was off balance there she is very powerful and explosive coordination is a little tricky for her sometimes but I'm sure she'll be able to figure it out just needs to find the right body position in order to set up for the jump Alex Puccio an 11-time bouldering national champion so forth problems begin she has gotten to the top of the first three so far see if she get this jump a little better there she goes should have no problem finishing the rest of the ten she's gonna grab the 15 Cuchillo looking to stay perfect as she eyes the 25-point zone four four four four alex Puccio sober fine while Puccio is getting to the top of problem for she gets to the top of problem five nicely threw herself into that fifteen and actually grabbed it and dropped down immediately where we've seen people press and then drop down it looked really nice for her and she was able to get two hands on the twenty five with a great way to end her round claire burr fine flashing problems one three and four and gets the top of problem five solid opening round for her as she has her eyes on the semifinal round tomorrow is one of the top twenty women to move on to the second round twenty five getting a match and a top there Chloe cost boy trying to figure out how to get over to this sloping hole that has a small little foot chip on it cos boy is often Mikayla Kearse is next to her she's at the top of your screen she's working on problem number three Pyrrhus was able to flash problem number one for a perfect score of 25 points in the score of 15 on problem number 2 trying to rest up a bit there she's a very successful sport climber so she can hang on to the wall for a while so if she can find a little rest she's gonna try to make this work for her so she doesn't have to take as many attempts got a reach out to there the next hold subtly without slipping set up with 15 unfortunately control there can't quite get to the 15 point zone so after topping problem number one Gaelic hears struggling on 2 & 3 final 10 seconds of this four-minute window as that is shima Shiraishi sri chief thank you very much she is one of the most successful competition climbers didn't do as well in the combine bouldering and sport climbing are her two specialties used to work on her speed a little bit but she should definitely shine here a very technical climber very creative gets herself into positions that nobody even thinks are possible and then gets herself out of them too so she's a competitive climber by the age of seven and she's really considered as you mentioned one of the top teenaged climbers of either gender her best is still very much ahead of her in 2017 she was the winner in the female sport category at the USA climbing sport and speed open national championships in Denver Colorado and then she was second at the USA climbing bouldering nationals that year as well she was also second last year so she's been on the podium multiple times and always really fun to watch making quick work here trying to get close to the 10 you mentioned her ability to put her cells in some different shapes that you wouldn't think possible her father was a dancer trained in the art of butoh I might have something to do with her ability probably has the 15 now just needs to trust the foot easily getting over there one hand and two hands on the 25 at the top no problem for Cherie she on problem one as athletes continue to make it to the top of that Boulder thanks to that efforts Cherie she's going to get herself some extra rest when Mason is in the red she is on problem 2 Sienna cop has the brush out and she is working on problem number three when just trying to find the right body position here to get over you feel so comfortable in that split position but it's just kind of tricky trying to figure out how to get your left foot in the right position without flying off somewhat of a barn door fashion like she just space and still have plenty of time a minute 40 remaining in her Foreman in window trying to work her way back up to that five point zone zone and then over to ten back in that stemming position only two women so far have gotten to the top of problem number two that's Ciara Blair Coyle and Natalia Grossman did it as well looks like she's figuring out that she needs to press and bring her left foot in very nicely done can now get to the five and then here's the coordination move except she's gonna try to do it static coordination for the wind so you will get to the 15-point zones whoo Quinn Mason the 10-point zone now trying to get to the 15-point zone and then a short hop to 25 meanwhile Stanek off in the blue is still on the wall on problem number three the 15 just has to set her feet up and figure out how she can get to the 25 and then match it reaching with the right hand but she will come off and it doesn't look like she'll have enough time to maybe make another trip the cops is off the wall as well they will give way to the next group of competitors Alex Puccio stepping up for her fifth and final problem she has topped everyone so far so I said two women to top to make that Faria Puccio one of them in fact she flashed it for 25 points actually after being on the boulders yesterday my prediction was that maybe three girls with top all five so I'm glad that there's a possibility right now that one could because that was my she would be the first she can get to the top here problem number five meanwhile probably number one it's Emily her dhic your wolf next to her in the orange Emily's out of Boulder Colorado as well hey unfortunately already took one attempt by jumping up and then coming back down that's enough before kind of an unfortunate because once your feet leave the mat that counts as an attempt okay look here's what a problem for on the left Cuchillo is starting women's number five I'm trying to figure out the subtle movements that are required here very technical climb some mantling you'll see her press with that left hand up which is what we call a mantle now summit coordination stand up to the 10th makes you feel a little hesitant came out a little bit too much and pulled her off just about halfway through her four-minute window is she look to get to that 10-point zone and now going to the brush Cuchillo trying to become the first woman to get to the top of all five obstacles we are still early here in the qualifying round 13 of the 53 women have gotten to the wall just trying to manage her time here so she has enough time to do the boulder but she doesn't wanna get on too early either because she definitely wants to finish her around with another top and in the past she has topped all five in qualifiers many different times so it's definitely a trend she likes to keep going Cuchillo now with her second attempt looks like she didn't notice that the to hand-start is on her right hand so she was going back to match the left hand which she didn't do she's actually making a little bit harder Cuchillo trying to get to the 10-point so this is where she fell on her last attack one just stand up a little taller here she's able to do it real aggressive trihard there in the shoulders up next is the 15 and then she will have to work her way around the corner and up to 25 it just needs to commit to throwing her body into a press on this 15 Puccio is there and this next movement is all that remains between her and going five for five in this opening round she kind of needs to fall into the 15 but right now she's trying to stay pressed it looks like it's not gonna happen for her today won't be able to make it but Alex Puccio tops four of the five opening Golders back with more next the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship is brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 and for you Western fans that is a look at the cabin of one Rooster Cogburn the character played by John Wayne in the original movie true grit all kinds of sights to see here in the state of Oregon Ashima Sheree she on problem number two showing some true grit on problem one as she flashed that in a perfect score of 25 points just trying to figure out how she can get 25 she has one this is where I'm talking about the weird drop body positions [Music] so great it's always so impressive to watch Ashima cherie she is tearing through these first two problems as problem two has been a bit of a challenge for a lot of the athletes here but not for Ashima sure Ishii Quinn Mason in the red is on problem number three quench trying to figure out her body position here should go out to that right hold the feed there very slippery there's nothing actually on the volume that geometric shape that you see where she had her right foot so she was trying to press or smear against it Quinn is going to take a seat and use this remaining time to add to her four minutes of rest that are coming up [Music] we are ready for the next round as this format every window closes out as all the climbers in that window are done [Music] [Music] Cayla Kearse turning around and getting a look at the fifth and final problem for her peers has topped two of the four so far problems one and problems for and she flashed both of them for a perfect score of 25 points definitely would be good for her to flash hot flash but to top this one a flash would be great too but definitely a top would help her score to secure her a better spot at least the top 20 of the 53 women in the field will move on to the semifinals tomorrow and here's looking to be one of those women that's Chloe Costco in the pink top she is on problem for and tail wolf is on problem three she is in the orange pants she'll get credit for that 25 points own that'll be her second top so far of the round Mikayla getting through that mantle section pretty easily now preparing for the stand-up coordination move to the oh she's gonna go left hand which we have not seen her hand will slap and she will have to make another attempt to get herself to that ten point zone on the problem one that is Megan Lynch number 16 next to her on problem 2 is Emily heard ik and she comes off the wall and it's Megan Lynch getting to the top of the problem number one Emily her nakhon problem 2 is still working and Michaela Kirsch a problem 5 trying to close out her qualifying round with as close to 25 points as possible going to the brush on the far side of your screen on the far right side as we take a look at Emily her diccon problem - and she is off as she was reaching for that five point zone like he was ready to get on boulder number five again hopefully she'll go with her right hand to the 10 zone this time since the left hand hasn't worked twice already sometimes it's hard not to get tunnel vision they'll go with their lucky head but making it work really good effort there by McFeely Kirsch setting up nicely for that fallen move to the 15 - moves are all the remains and cures cannot hang on to 15 and just 43 seconds left for her on this final problem it's gonna be rough but possibly enough time once you get to the end of the round there's no point in not trying because every point counts about 30 seconds for cure these two climbers left if she goes setting up for that number 10 zone again every trouble earlier won't happened for cure says we're qualifying round will and being joined now by Josh Larson who is the head coach of us a climbing you've been around checking out the events so far what are your thoughts been on this opening day hi thanks for having me my thoughts for the day are awesome it's so good to see so many competitors show up all the way out here in Redmond and yeah it's going great the guys are still going through but everyone's still looking psyched and motivated and the girls are just kicking off looks like a good round in 2020 we've mentioned this before but climbing will be part of the Summer Olympics how is that affected USA climbing and what you're going through in order to prepare for that I think it's affected that USA climbing in a very positive way it's really motivated us to do a lot of make a lot of changes and it's gonna challenge us and every other Federation out there to be better and I mean I can only think positive things about it what is your ideal situation for Team USA in terms of training and you know really being able to help these athletes grow I think the ideal situation is I mean because US is so big making it just feel a bit smaller by having a home base is going to be really important and we all have that in Salt Lake in the next couple months a place where all the athletes can come together and climb as a team and I think the more we can replicate World Cups and World Championships the better our athletes will be prepared she mystery she may be one of those athletes who's moving on she's been pretty impressive so far on qualifying she's on problem number three I know you guys are working towards putting together your national team for those World Cup competitions you don't have the roster said yeah but when you look at the field that you have of the best athletes what do you think the strengths of this team are going to be that's a good question I mean yeah we don't have the full roster but just kind of in general our strengths are our athletes are very motivated and they're fully dedicated the ones that that have the potential are all in and the strengths are there we have very very talented athletes and they just can't express themselves as much as they want to or could on some of the World Cup circuits because the bouldering and styles are so different from the American standard style so I think being able to get them more comfortable in these situations they're just gonna be better for them it's Abigail York who is on problem number one as she gets to the floor for the first time she's struggling to get to the five we haven't seen anyone struggling a bit to get to the five looks like she's trying to go strictly dynamic ouch so take a spill and Alex Johnson is on problem number two she's in those long pants in the middle of your screen it's really nice to see Alex Johnson back here competing at all during nationals he's been on the podium multiple times in the past she's won two World Cups kind of took a break from competing in these competitions was doing other you know less prestigious competitions but it's nice to see her back out here trying to get on the team again Alice Johnson has time to make it maybe one more attempt or this is where we stand so far in this opening qualifying round Margot Hayes's if your leader fought by Claire Brewer fine Natalia Grossman by a tenth of a point over Alex Pucci oh so very close there at the top as all these women look to be in that field of at least 20 who will move on to the semifinal round that will be contested tomorrow and then the top six from the semi-finals will move on to the final round that is Saturday evening oh but she anyway really impressive need to keep it together not rush it see if she can stop this in the nick of time Josh we were talking earlier about how nice it is now for you guys to actually have a central location to Train the US team how much of a difference is that making is you guys prepared out for the World Cup that's gonna be a huge difference for athletes to just feel like they have a place that they can call their their training center their home it's gonna be a work in progress because it's just something new for everyone so we're not sure you know if our athletes gonna move to where the training center is our athletes gonna come in weekly monthly you know these things are we're gonna be learning and building as the next couple months move forward Josh Larson head coach of us a climbing thanks for joining us enjoy the event we'll have four from the qualifying round in Redmond Oregon when we return moments ago tey a wolf on problem for really a nice top here it's a very committing finishing move and earlier in the problem she was able to stick the double clutch Dino to so that's two tops or three tops for tail wolf actually setting her up really nicely to make it into the semi-final this is Megan Lynn she is on problem number two she and Chloe cos boy the only two climbers left on the wall Kasich ways at the far end on the right side of your screen she's on problem number five Megan trying to figure out this not so obvious body positioning section trying to just go for the jump without bringing the left foot in which Alex Johnson was actually able to do earlier this is Chloe Kasich away trying to figure out problem number five and close out her qualifying round she's been struggling trying to get to the 10 zone here she's gotten her hands on it but she keeps falling off without getting control so looking to see if she can get control of that ten zone right now as the clock counts down look at her scores for the first four problems he really needs to get to the top here and problem number five if she wants a solid chance of making it into the top twenty in the qualifying round it's the ten now for the committing fall and move to the 15 he should be aware that she's running out of time now just 10 seconds quick really needs to go needs to hand still miss getting her right hand it'll be up to the judge but to me that did not look like she matched it in time but at least she'll get the 15 it'll help her score judging by her reaction it doesn't look like she's going to get credit for it take one more look at it she gets her left hand on but then it's the right hand that's the key she's putting her heel up the clock hits zero and her right hand still not on definitely did not unfortunately get the top on number five or Chloe cos going then you see the reaction and she knew it - it took a little too much time on that final movement see if that cost her she really could have used the top there on that final obstacle Ashima sharee see now on problem number 4 and she has been almost perfect so far flashing problems 1 & 3 and then a 24.8 on problem 2 looking at these boulders and having timed on them this is the only one that worried me for her jumping is not her strongest point in terms of climbing skills she basically has all these other skills just needs to work on the jumping a bit so it's gonna she's gonna have to try a bit harder here since it come as naturally for her but hopefully she's able to get there Ashima is also trying to become the first woman in this qualifying round to top all five boulders Alix Puccio came close but then couldn't close it out on problem five and Cherie she running into some problems on here on problem number definitely a better attempt from Ashima on her second try looks better set up to hit that double clutch Abigale York on women's number two trying to figure out how she can get some points Shiraishi off the wall again halfway through her four-minute window she's kind of tried back-to-back here so it might be a good idea for her to rest a little bit more since it is such a powerful move looks like she is taking a bit more time once she sticks it she'll be fine Katie Malinowski on number one one hand two hands and that's top for her Katie Malinowski will hop off and get some extra rest as she gets at the top of problem number one back to Ashima cherie she on problem number four and this is the sticky point for her on this movement and she almost had it super close I think if she just rests maybe 15 seconds 15 seconds and I think she can latch it on this next try as a competitor when you know the clock is winding down what does that do to you mentally nice Takeshima sure Ishii the clock definitely at first you don't mind it but once it's down to like two minutes you start to get a little frazzled because you realize you're really running out of time and if you haven't made enough progress by then you might be out of luck she was setting up here for the final move not the most difficult just very committing fix it no problem for for for keeping her record for Ashima sharee she and it was the beginning of this problem that was really the crux she failed multiple times here but finally able to make that move really explosive she actually moved her foot up her right foot up higher so that she could get a little more power to boost her up and hit that double clutch with that left hand very pleased with that Oh smiles for Ashima sharee she is she has tough all four ups there all four boulders that she has faced now Quinn Mason just beating the clock and she will top problem number five nothing like a buzzer beater so that'll be three top I mean yes three tops for Quinn Mason they're so setting her up nicely going in hopefully to semifinal Madeleine Morris on women's number one brushing the holes we're getting further into the competition so the holes are getting more and more greasy tail wolf is on her fifth and final problem of this qualifying round 53 women have started the competition at least 20 will move on to the qualifying round or the semifinal round partner Kay is currently in a nice position having three tops already a fourth top would really just secure a spot for her problem two was really the only hiccup that she had four point nine points there but she could really make up for that with the top two closings out here on problem five and she is at the five point zone already definitely unfortunate to only get the five on number two we've seen a couple people do that Kyra Conde as well struggled on lemons number 2 OTS setting up here for the coordination stand-up move see everybody hesitates before because once you go there's no going back so you gotta feel right before you move you versus gravity and gravity tends to win in that situation she definitely has a kid a little too much didn't stand up as aggressively as she needs to so her body was kind of pulled away from the wall tail wolf would really love to get at least 2:15 remember that four point nine on problem two is kind of sticking out like a sore thumb right now for her definitely would place her better if she can get past at least get the ten here and then hopefully finish the problem Megan Lynch in the middle of the screen making her way through woman's number three looking pretty smooth here it just has to set up there you go unfortunately a little shallow on that cross loop to the 15 left hands slipping a bit for her and now back to wolf on problem five with less than a minute 30 remaining tan took a very appropriate amount of rest time definitely enough time to still do the boulder and recover a bit as well this moves a little more taxing than it might seem really have to roll over on that right foot and then press up through your triceps long the number 5 putting that much tension on your body has just got to be taxing especially when you've been through 4 problems already definitely have to set up she really needs to commit here can't get to the 10-point zone so despite her success in three of the four obstacles remember those four point nine points in she only scored on problem two are not going to help her cause he needs to make up for that a problem five that's Megan Lynch on problem three getting to the top now final seconds tail wolf and it's not going to happen disappointed she had three tops in one flash but again just four point nine points a problem too and she does not get to the top on Boulder number five Ashima cherie she looking to run the table and become the first woman to get to the top of all five problems this boulder problem will suit her very well I'd be surprised if we didn't see a top from her here so much chalk coming off that number five zone so necessary to brush there's a look at what she has done so far two flashes on problem one and problem three and she has reached the top on all four so far Alex Puccio earlier and this qualifying round was in the same position looking to go five for five and couldn't get to the top of the fifth and final problem Cherie she was her first attempt which I think it's pretty cool to comparison between those two climbers in general because both of them are phenomenal climbers but just very different styles this is a style that alex is not as good at whereas Ashima is not as good at the powerful jumping that alex is good at setting up for this coordination move does it easily makes it and she is at the ten point zone so this is where we saw tail wolf struggle and Cherie see no problem getting to the ten point zone and now looking to make her way across to the fifteen point zone Cherie she is there now one final turn - 25 your body is set up kind of weird here it feels foreign so you're not sure what to do the hold is pretty good but still not the best and for a smaller climber here reaching to that 25 is a little more difficult left hand is their right hand is their it's a flash to close out the qualifying round for Ashima sharee she as she tops all five problems back with more from the USA climbing bouldering Open national championship when we return Ashima cherie she just climbed to the top of problem number five and with that effort she has climbed to the top of the overall leaderboard here in the qualifying round one hundred twenty four point three points out of a possible 120 five points so nearly perfect for Ashima cherie she as she will definitely be moving on to the semifinal round tomorrow qualifying round continuing here at the Deschutes County Fair and Expo Centre struggling figure out how and herd ik has got to get to the top here if she wants any chance of getting into the semifinal round as she received a zero on problem one zero is definitely a killer on a boulder problem so she's trying to make her way up to that ten there she's got just five points on problem two so this is huge for her if she wants an outside chance getting in to the top twenty was able to flash problem three and got to the top on problem four and now a slip didn't really commit to that stand up move I'm actually noticing that a lot of the taller competitors if they can reach that volume they're less inclined to really commit to the stand up move which is definitely the best way to be doing and the kinda intended way to do that movement so it kind of messes with their heads a bit and they kind of hesitated on what they want to do madeline morris is on the right of your screen she is on problem - and makea Sanders is on the left she's number 22 she's making her first appearance here in the qualifying round on problem number warned earlier nakiya was up a little bit higher on problem number one but unfortunately slipped trying to figure out how she got there earlier that's the worst when you forget it totally happens you're so in the zone nicely done I'm trying to work her way towards that 10-point zone and right above that is the 15-point hold fifteen just needs to figure out how to reach out here and get to the 25 without slipping going kind of dynamic nicely done good commitment nakiya sanders good opening effort for nakiya Sanders she gets the top of problem number one Madeleine Morris meanwhile in the white going back at problem number two and that's Emily her 'dick who is in some dire straits early on here's got to get to the top of problem number five Madeleine Morris trying to get to the ten points out on problem to just trying to figure out what the body position is here she can tell she kind of wants to bring your left foot in but it doesn't feel fully comfortable gets her foot in able to get to the five here's the coordination move trying to just twist it nautically won't be able to get herself around the corner that 10-point zone wasn't too far as far as space is concerned but I'm sure that seems like a mile away when you're in that position trying to hang on for dear life Maggie hammer getting ready for problem number one as we are in the final seconds of this format window and now hammer will take her first turn on the wall Maggie's one of our younger competitors [Music] she's been a successful youth competitor competing in a lot of the adult national Cup Series competitions this year stepping up on problem number one she's a pretty technical climber I've seen her doing really well on slabs so not surprised that she was able to figure out the first steps but I think she'll think of doing something else this next time also one of our shorter climbers wingspan equal to her height that five-point zone on her second attempt definitely a little more progress there number two we have Ashley Fisher getting into this tricky stem area she's actually one of our tallest competitors trying to figure out just how to get into the five zone nice foot placement there definitely needs her left hand there has the five nasta Becky hammer meanwhile has gotten to the the 10 [Music] after some early struggles Maggie hammer gets to the top and will pop off with a great opening effort on her first of five problems here in the qualifying round Abigail York getting a top here women's number four I believe this is her first top of the competition so very helpful approaching the two-minute mark Ashley Fisher still struggling here trying to figure out just how to get around the corner she may be able to do it without bringing her left foot in because she is taller so uncomfortable in the positioning fortunately not able to get that coordination move Katy Bala now ski is in the upper right part of your screen in the pink top she is on problem number three Katie trying to keep the tension there in her shoulders to get to the 15th be able to get the fifteen trying to get to that 25 one hand on she means to I'm able to get the top there on women's number two good fight from Malinowski she comes up at the top you have one minute remaining Ashley Fisher is still on the wall she's on problem two Alex Johnson is trying to close out her qualifying around on problem five she previously got to the 15 and then her foot actually slipped so she's hoping to get back up there this time another one of our taller competitors sometimes the body positioning is a little different on some of these Boulder problems actually able to reach the 10 where we've seen so many people have to stand up with out their hand she was in this position before got to the 15 and then happened to slip so let's see if she can figure out how to get into it here she has flashed to the 5 just beating the time Alex Johnson will close under qualifying around more for Redmond Oregon when we come back about halfway through the opening qualifying around for the women here at the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship your top five and Alex Johnson courtesy of that effort that we just saw before we left you has moved into the top five just one tenth of a point behind Claire Burr find Alex Puccio who was in the top five the last time we showed it to you dropped down to sixth but still very solid as far as a spot in the semifinal round is concerned the least the top 20 athletes moving into that semifinal round that will be contestant tomorrow unable to stick that little jump in the beginning it's a good hole but you kind of swirl around on it kind of like helicopter is something your legs go flying so it's a little jarring when you hit it it definitely looks a little easier than it actually Megan Lynch standing up nicely through that mantle section easily into the 10 zone now this is the transition these problems that she comes off the wall Linscott 210 but just didn't have a good hold up there she wasn't gonna make the transition over to 15 and that's one thing I was saying earlier about this round it just it's not even necessarily that the boulders are so so hard they're just there's so many little places where you can make tiny little mistakes and lose your balance of falling in 4 minutes you can't really afford to do that jumping into the 15th Lynch is there now get her left hand on 25 and there's the right hand to match Megan Lynch closing out with the top on problem number 5 pagan links maybe some nervous laughter there she realizes that she had just a few seconds to spare but she gets to the top inside the four-minute cast [Music] Maggie hammer sizing a problem number two got to the top of problem one on her third attempt getting into this tricky section easily bringing your left foot in really read that well just a little foot slip there but at least she knows what she needs to do did not come as easily for a lot of the competitors seemed a little difficult to figure out maggie hammer will get to work again as she hops back up on problem number two me back in that press position it's really gonna focus on her feet here this time moved a little too fast as a shorter competitor she's gonna have to move a little slower to the five because it is kind of far she can reach it but she can't go so quickly to it Sarah Kate Ashton topping problem number one for her opening ascent Katie Malinowski is sticking the double clutch on women's number four she's had two tops already she's currently in solid hold on ten and now the right hand on fifteen all that's left is to get to the final 25 points own and no problem for Katie Malinowski and with plenty of time to spare so she buys herself an extra two minutes of rest Maggy hammer trying to work ooh whoa really aggressive fall there it looks like she's okay time to shake that one off one more look at what happened here she was really spanned out there it may have been a better idea to kind of slowly release instead of jumping just because the 15 zone hold is not that good but she has plenty of time to get back on there and try it again 20 seconds remaining Abigail York setting up trying to get to 27 she is off the wall Maggie hammer back to work on women's number two but even if she doesn't have enough time to top getting to the 15 would be really good for her so it's worth it unfortunately I think she just moved a little too fast another slip that's a five point zone able to get to the top of problem number one good save there now needs to move across to drive I'm slow this whole thing down it's a little too too much swing their penis in the lead stop foot first got her hand on that 15 zone but doesn't like look like she will get credit for it bah fine round continues here in Redmond Oregon [Music] back inside the Deschutes County Fair and Expo Center where a bimini horseman on the first problem looking to get to the five point zone out of Davidson North Carolina just 19 years old she's originally from Massachusetts it's going to school out there North Carolina now trying to make her way right now to the five point zone looking pretty good nice and slow [Music] stand up kind of get that little five able to do it really nicely done she will get there and now figure out a way to get to the 10-point zone at the top of your screen [Music] you're having that other tiny hole that is not a scored hold but an equally small hole to the five zone going to reach out for the 10 zone she will get that now this is the movement that at the beginning of the day was giving some people problems and that's getting their left foot secured on that volume yeah I actually wondered if with time this football is actually getting better because sometimes the volumes can be a little sandy so the more people climb on up the less sandy they become we have seen fewer slips on that volume and horsemen at no problem and she will top the first Boulder on problem three the crew is out cleaning that up we have a blood technical so obviously for sanitary purposes they need to clean that up and that is one thing the climbers hands they don't get to wear any protection no gloves nothing I mean they take a beating during this during this three round weekend competition it's not uncommon to have people in the finals bleeding it happens all the time last year it was myself and Margo bleeding every unfortunately they're really abrasive you can always tape but it doesn't and it makes it harder for you to climb when you have tape all on your fingers look at the hands of one Madeline Morris so far her skin is intact definitely in this round you don't really want to be bleeding if you're trying to make it into the next two rounds just saw Katie Malinowski on problem five over those were the hands of Maggie hammer Katie has three tops already so she's looking to get her fourth top in here set her up for a nice position she's currently in 16th so the top here would be vital for her just to be more comfortable because there are a few more climbers coming out that have the potential to be in the semi final and it just goes to show you why points are huge because four point eight in problem 2 that is what might keep her out of the top 20 depending on what she does here problem number 5 I start getting to the 5 choosing to not bring her foot up first which is proving to not be the best decision but she has plenty of time to figure out what she needs to do the crux of that problem is that transition between 10 and 15 back to problem one where Arabella Jarriel makes it to the 25 and she will top problem number one choosing to use the foot with the mantle halfway through her four-minute window Sarah Kate Ashton number 25 second here looks like setting up for it with a little hesitant I think if she commits to it a little more she'll be able to do it Malinowski making another attempt on problem 5 a better position for the mantel here now she can set up to go to the number 10 Malinowski trying to get her left hand up there get credit for it now she makes a temp with the right hand but falls off comes up a little short used to commit a little more and actually stand up into the wall a bit more Malinowski's running out of time here remember that four point eight in problem number two she needs to get as many points as he possibly can here on problem number five definitely needs to start moving because it is one of the more technical Boulder problems you need to have the time so that you're not rushing because you don't want to have a slip late at late in the boulder and now another fall looking like she's getting a bit tired ashley fisher on women's number 303 katie unfortunately not able to get it done on women's number five she needed a big performance there as ashley fisher is on three and will not be able to top that Sarah Kate lation cannot get to the top either feminine horseman rushing the holds on women the women's number two because of that blood technical view things have shifted just a little bit Kyah Saunders is now on problem three she's on the right ear screen it delayed some things according to the schedule she should be on four but she is back on three and then next to her is Bimini horsemen number 26 last problem number one for a perfect score of 25 points Bimini taking a long time Bimini taking her time already with more than a minute spent sizing up problem number two she's kind of at the end of the round before the group setters start brushing so it is a smart move nakiya stander is getting high up on women's number three big fall there nakiya still has time to figure it out really needs to shift her weight to the right get her left foot over in order to get up to that fifteen horsemen is ready to go and making her way up problem number two after taking a long time to read this Boulder trying to figure out how to get to the five very tricky section as we've seen throughout this competition gonna press here hopefully bring her left foot in Oh China tow hook actually is using her toe underneath the hold which we have not seen really done looks like it's pulling her down she needs to be a little higher to get to the five gonna try to bypass it she's already stuck oh god her left hand on it that'll be a judgement call there I'm not sure if she had control yeah definitely gonna go to the judges nakiya Sanders on three back up to where she was a few moments ago really trying to get to that 15 great performance on one and then you saw the zero in problem - so no room for error for her and the remainder of these problems and is qualifying around okay taking a moment to just sit down and look at the boulders kind of resting as much as she can been Minnie trying to find her way around the corner here clone for that coordination moved it a little differently and having to work for her running out of time definitely still has time to finish but needs to be efficient here this folder is definitely not over she has the ten and now trying to get to 15 able to control the swing there this has to figure out a way to get to the 25 good flip there on that right hand see if she can figure out how to get up there horseman high 25 it's crazy left hand she will get it just inside that form in a cab for Bimini horsemen arabela jereal moving - problem - she's at the bottom of your screen in that green top maggie hammer is on three season those long black pants and then Sarah Kate Ashton in the middle of your screen is on women's three Maggie hammer setting up for the little jump here - that good hold but really makes you fly just as Maggie just did arabela Jarriel getting into the funky section of women's number two trying to make her way to that five point own and then across to the ten this has been the sticking point for the majority of the climbers who have tackled this Boulder so far doing a good job taking her time of saying Tom Maggie about to set up for that jump again see if she can control her swing a little bit more able to do so one of my favorite things about climbing especially in competitions is just the learned movement from one trying to the next good save there by Maggie hammer it's the ten he's trying to make that leap to 15 Ashleigh Fisher is on women's four she isn't it all black Fisher to the 10 and reach over to the 15th set up for that jump to the 25 she might be able to reach Fisher has it she will top women's for one Boulder remaining for Ashleigh Fisher in this opening qualifying round a two-day competition here at the 2019 USA climbing bouldering National Open Championship at least 20 women move on to the semi finals 53 and its opening qualifying around Maggie able to stick that jump smoothly again trying to get back into position so she could try and attempt to get control of that 15 zone pointer is off the wall inside a minute to go definitely one of the more taxing builder problems in this round as I believe it has the most foods and on that angle you're kind of on the entire time so it's definitely necessary to take enough rest especially since it's the third Boulder and you'll have two more to follow she is that the five-point zone now working Rory up towards a ten point hold and she will have it with the left hand trying to get in a better position here able to make it to that 15-point zone great effort from Maggie hammer more from the Deschutes County Fair and Expo Center when we come back qualifying continuing is nicaya Sanders gets to the top of problem number four definitely a good top I think that's just her second of the round so one she definitely needed to get go back to her ascent here up problem number four she took a moment here to kind of take a breather set herself up to go for that 25 she had to try the bottom jump quite a few times and it is extremely tiring so really smart to take a few moments and breathe before setting up for this jump to the 25 hole with Sanders topping problem for us and now able to smile about it Sarah Kate Ashton is on women's problem three and very close and now having that 10-point zone just has to get in the ramp body position here feet are kind of slippery has to set up properly to get to the 15 smart to bring the foot in perfect on one in the 9.7 on problem 2 and now she's off the wall inside a minute to go for Sarah Kay - t'en Sarek a dashing probably wishes she had a little more time so she could rest but if she's gonna do this Boulder problem she definitely needed to get back on the wall right now as she did holds that swing nicely trying to get herself to that ten point zone and then get to 15 to score those valuable points she's got to keep the body tension here and set her feet up this can't get it to go for Sarah Kate Ashton she does get to that ten point zone after topping problem one she has yet to get to the top of the subsequent two problems and that will bring on bimini horseman who would take on problem number three after flashing problem one getting you the top on her opening attempt and then just taking two attempts to get to the top of problem number two taking the time to brush the holes as you see so many of the athletes do make sure that they have the optimal amount of friction when they decide to try and climb those brushes are heavy horsemen mentally going through she's actually taken more time than most people she's taken like about a minute or more to read the boulder problem and brush the holds each time I think the only other person who was close to that was Margo Hayes seen a couple athletes take quite a bit of time to read this Boulder seeing that this one is the one with the most amount of moves and in such a steep angle you do want to make sure you kind of have it all together on the first go because it would just set you up nicely to only have to try it once bimini setting up for the jump here horseman has her right hand on that holding can't control his swing I think we'll see her try to go with two hands next time shaking out her hands a bit and going to the chalk bag before she starts her second attempt stepping up for her next attempt on women's number three powerful moves from the start here she sets up for the jump this is where she slipped last time able to secure with both hands like you thought now on to the 10-point zone trying to reach out there and stem looks like she's gonna have to actually go to the hold first she will get the ten two remaining has to set up to reach out for this precarious move to the unscored hold set set up for the powerful move to the 15 horsemen with a methodical ascent here 15 is within reach she will have it one to go to solid grip with her right hand needs to match with her left Horseman is there good fight from her at the top of that problem and she will top problem numbers free bimini horseman getting to the top here on problem three qualifying action continues when we returned to the Deschutes County Fair at Expo Center [Music] the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship is brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 Smith rock just outside of our location here in Redmond Oregon one of the most famous landmarks and all of climbing and considered to be the birthplace of the sport of climbing Bimini horseman three four three so far in this qualifying round at getting to the top of the first three Boulder she has faced two remaining for her but she will have a few more minutes to go before she gets to attack problem number four that is nicaya Sanders she is on the fifth and final problem she was just over a minute left so she's taken a few more moments to really set up for what could be her last try at this Boulder and definitely needs it if she's gonna make her way arabela Jarriel on problem number three just coming off the wall there is sander starts her ascent back up problem number five two tops so far but it's problem two that's really throwing a wrench into her plans of getting into the semifinal round so she really needs a top here to have any chance of doing that got the 10 pretty nicely just needs to commit to the fall and move here on the 15 does it well kind of an awkward movement here you just kinda have to commit again now for one of the smaller climbers this last move is gonna be a little punchy gets one hand left hand was there but didn't have the grip and Sanders is off she takes one last look at the clock and realizes that she is not gonna have time for another attempt so she will close out her qualifying around and hope that she has done enough to get herself into the semi-finals bimini horseman will attack problem number four now gotten to the top of the three boulders that she has faced so far really taking the time to brush here again the hold that you have to jump to has gotten extremely chalky during this round [Music] perfect on problem one getting to the top on her very first attempt and just two attempts each for problem to improv them three to top those stepping through what she thinks will be the necessary movements that she will need to make in order to get to the top here of women's problem for one more look definitely spending less time on this Boulder problems listed as fewer moves than any of the others gonna have to set up for this double clutch jump here Horseman's grip slips and not able to hang on bit short looked like she had enough height possibly and you can see the marks left by her fingers yeah she just needs a little more upward momentum to kind of boost her into the other hold that she has to grab she just needs a little more power in that jump snack the tempo it's been better but still not able to hang on [Music] plenty of time here looking at this Boulder problem you can tell that the end is not really that difficult so you can take the time to rest to get ready for that jump this certainly has been the sticking point for the majority of the climbers that we've watched in now horseman has a solid hold and will look to pull herself up and over and get to that 10 point zone not taking any chances taking the time to rest here she will make it to 10:15 should not be a problem and then it's one final move 225 is horseman looking to stay perfect just a commanding move here looks a little nervous about it haven't really seen anyone put their foot there whoreson will have it gets to the top for the fourth straight time and just one problem remaining as bimini horseman looks to become the second woman that we have seen top all five problems in this qualifying round maggie hammer setting up for this committee move to the 15 maggie hammer on her fifth and final obstacle and just can't get the grip as she looked to move to that 15-point zone and again that's where we've seen most athletes have the problem on this boulder yeah it's a very committing move and a lot of the women are just kind of struggling to really commit to it and then sometimes once they get there coming out of that press is just tricky and it just doesn't feel right so then you get nervous and second-guess yourself Maggie hammer working her way back up to that point where she just fell off 30 seconds to go for her much better just needs to fall into it has enough time but she's gonna need to move quick here it's gonna be a bigger move for her to get to the 25 couldn't make it Reese out with her left hand and Maggie hammer is off the wall gave it a great effort on her fifth and final problem bimini sanders i'm sorry penny horsemen coming up next trying to go five for five and stay perfect unlike I just did we'll have her attempt on problem number five when we return [Music] the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship continues Sarah Kate Ashton on her fifth and final problem not very uncomfortable committing move to stand up into it Sarah Kate had two tops so far on one and problem four and she's sort of on the cut line right now she could really do herself a favor she can get to the top of this problem yeah she's definitely on the bubble hesitating a little too much there plenty of time to get back up there but she definitely needs to be a little more committing to that move jereal moments ago chopping problem number four sets up for the committing jump here no problem really goes for it with two hands that'll be her possibly third top actually and as a result she's getting a lot of extra rest for her fifth and final problem and back to Sarah Kate Ashton look at what she has done so far started out perfectly on problem number one and then ran into a little bit of trouble there in the middle and then problem before I was able to get to the top and her third attempt definitely needs to get back on the wall before it gets to thirty seconds just because we do have to move somewhat slow on this problem she needs to have enough time to try to increase her score right now she's sitting and it's just the scores have just updated but she is really right on the cut line and could knock herself out if she doesn't at least get to the 15-point zone here doesn't look like it's gonna happen Sarek a dashing closing out our qualifying round and hoping that she will get some help to get her into the top 20 and on to the semifinal round and out Bimini horsemen who has topped all four problems she has faced so far looking to become the second woman that we have seen top all five Mishima Sheree she was the other honestly she probably only really needs to get to the ten to feel pretty safe so it'd be cool to see her top all five and she's looking in a pretty comfortable position to make it into tomorrow using the brush to make sure that the boulder is to her liking and now she will get set to start her first descent up her fifth and final problem always taking that at least minute before she gets on the wall making sure she knows exactly what she wants to do more than a minute has elapsed and horseman has yet to start the climb but like you said she doesn't have to get to the top here she's done enough work to put herself solidly inside the top 20 now without this climb she's just outside the top 10 right now so she set up really nice playing with house money as she works her way to the five point zone in her wheelhouse though so I would expect her to do it nicely getting up to get set up to attempt to get to that 10 zone with that stand up move Horseman is smooth so far approaching what has been the crux of this problem the transition from the 10 to the 15 a little short of the 10 keep the hold there on the 10 zone but minute 45 to go definitely another one of those learned movements where the more you try it the more your body understands how it works so she should have more success on it on her second attempt second attempt now four horsemen trying to go five for five here in this qualifying round get into the mantle slips but catches herself really gonna try to make the best at this attempt because it is looking like she's getting a little fatigued after this stellar around then she's had and we'll see what she learned from that first attempt if she could make it to that 10-point zone 45 seconds to go again can't keep the hold but again thanks to her efforts on the first four boulders she's looking pretty good as far as her chances of making into the semifinals are concerned one more look at that last attempt she's kind of trying to hold the hold with her right hand instead of just kind of standing up more into it with her thumb she's kind of turning her hand and I think that's what's pushing her out so let's see if she tries something a little different here now it's about points four horsemen as Sheba Sheree she will remain the only woman to top all five of these opening qualifying problems and horsemen off the wall again but solid opening round for her we will be back to close out our coverage from the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship when we return back at the Deschutes County Fair and Expo Center where Bimini horsemen successfully got to the top of four of the five problems here in this qualifying round but it was that woman Ashima sharee she who stole the show a perfect 5 4 5 as she punches her ticket to the semifinal round that will be contested tomorrow qualify still going on for the women but right now your top 10 Ashima sharee she on top of the overall leaderboard with one hundred twenty four point three points and man was she impressive yeah really impressive round from her as from a lot of the women looks like four boulders is what you needed to get into the top ten and Ashima being the only one who could clinch five so one day down one day to go here at the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championships for complete results you can go to USA climbing or for Meagan Martin I'm Sean woodland thanks for joining us here in Oregon all games airing on the ESPN networks are streaming live and archived on the ESPN app this has been a presentation of ESPN [Music] you

Channel: USA Climbing

Views: 57,386

Rating: 4.9283581 out of 5

Keywords: USA Climbing, Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Speed Climbing

Id: HK-wEnbge8g

Length: 125min 48sec (7548 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 27 2019