2019 USA Climbing: Combined Invitational | Bouldering Qualification Round

[Music] it's moving day for America's best climbers in snowy Lehi Utah in the shadow of the Wasatch Mountains near Salt Lake City today we'll find out who's gonna advance for momentum indoor climbing Lehigh's bouldering walls into Sunday's final the 2019 us a climbing combined Invitational mess one step closer to the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo after day one which featured the speed and sport disciplines 17 year old Brook rabbit - is your leader in the women's competition with a pair of top three finishes only the top eight are going to advance the Sunday's final currently margot hayes is our bubble athlete a podium favorite if she can make it to Sunday for the men Sean Bailey from Seattle Washington came into the competition as one of the overall favorites he won the sport discipline on Friday and he is in first place as we get ready for bouldering through rawana another potential podium finisher sits on the cut line in eighth place on the competition floor alongside former USA national climbing team member Meagan Martin I'm Sam Farber it's a pleasure and a privilege to have you with us here today well Meagan bouldering very different discipline from what we saw yesterday but arguably one of the most exciting in the sport yes definitely bouldering is the most exciting of the three disciplines you have athletes doing big moves taking huge Falls and they have a four-minute clock and they can try as many times as they want now one thing to keep in mind even though we've had a chance to look at these bouldering puzzles the athletes themselves haven't had a chance to look or touch the wall very different from yesterday they got to have a flash format so they were able to watch people yesterday but now they've been in isolation and they won't see these boulders until they're four minutes start and they turn around and look at the wall there's no communication with each other while they're climbing and they don't even have cell phones back there so they gotta solve this puzzle on their own complete isolation well they're gonna tackle these puzzles when we come back here to Lehigh is day two of qualifications who's moving on to Sunday's final in the 2019 us a climbing combined Invitational we'll find out after this [Music] 2019 USA Klieman combined invitationals brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 you're looking at the Lehigh roller mills made famous by Kevin Bacon in Footloose maybe today momentum indoor climbing in Lehigh will be made famous as the starting point for the first ever Olympians in the sport of climbing Sam Farber Meagan Martin back here with you inside momentum indoor climbing Lehigh we've got five problems 25 points available per problem as we look these markers so the goal of every athlete will be to get to the 25 point fold at the very top the finishing hold and they will need to control it with two hands in order to get the points now if you can't get to the top you're trying to get points as you get closer to the top so the five point 10.15 point you want to try to at least get to all those holes if you cannot make it to the top things off today that's Jordan Fishman entering competition today in 10th place and the way the scoring goes each discipline speed sport and today bouldering ranking they and how you finish compared to the rest of the competition at the end of the three disciplines multiply those numbers together so just being in the top eight all three times probably is not going to be enough you need to have a top three or top five finish if not two to really have a good shot at Sunday exactly you need to do as well as you can possibly do in each discipline in order to make it to Sunday so some of those people who are kind of getting sevens consistently we probably won't see them in the final but who knows that includes Elizabeth Sepulveda who you just saw she's entering the women's competition today in 12th place she finished ninth and speed that was her best finish your fishman finished fourth in speed that was his best finish but again he is currently in 10th place and Jordan could definitely do well here he's a very strong boulderer it'll just depend on how the boulders suit him and that's kind of the thing about bouldering it's more of a wild-card ethic but when it comes to the disciplines because you just never you don't get to see the boulders and it just depends on how the route setter is set that round let's take a look at what Jordan Fishman's got ahead of him in men's problem one they haven't seen the wall yet but you can look at it what do you see here as some of the early moves well it's not an extremely obvious start unfortunately so and you have the number five hole it is extremely small so you have to at first kind of press yourself up to stand up to even be able to get to the five and it's a hard establishing move and then you're number ten zones a little bigger but then 15 as you can see is very small again it's gonna be very tension II and technical tension being what's keeping you on the wall so you're gonna have to be flexing your body as you can see this mantle not super hard but definitely not really easy and he's struggling so he didn't even get the five yet so definitely having a difficult start makes the whole problem harder it takes a fall there you get a tenth of a point deduction per fall on your way to your furthest point in the problem correct that's possible score being 25 per problem exactly so we see Elizabeth trying to start another tricky start for the women not as tricky as the men it's nice press but if you choose the five hold that she went to is pretty small too so it's not like she can just press and go to a big hold she has to make sure she's in control when she's pressing now the clock you see is a countdown clock that starts at four minutes each athlete has only that much time to solve the problem then they have a rest period where they'll have their back to the wall of the next problem why the second athlete takes on the one they just did it'll make sense as we continue on but so Jordan has gotten the five now but he's still struggling to get to the tenth they're saying it's a kind of a precarious problem because this angle is what we call a slab so it might be a war of its it's easier than a vertical angle but that means that the climbing gets harder he just got his on the pen now where his left foot is it's hard even to see anything but there is the tiniest of holds that he is balancing on right now and it's a black hole so it blends him at the wall this is what we would call a mantle which is a very powerful move and it's definitely gonna give people trouble you see him struggling trying to just press as hard as he can working on that single leg squat very nicely done so now to the 15 he got the 15 he has control of it so he will be awarded that 15 point so now he's just trying to make his way to the 25 control looking back to make sure the judge awarded him control he now gets the 25 and that is a top for Jordan Fishman definitely off to a good start excellent job there for Jordan see Elizabeth still struggling to get to 5 [Applause] Elizabeth 16 years old Fairfax Station Virginia here the one-minute warning for her now she has to complete whatever distance she's going to get to in the four minutes she can't be starting on the wall when the clock runs out and get to finish that run exactly when the clock runs out you're done you go back sit down in the chair for your four minutes of race and the next time it comes out so if Elizabeth does not get to the fight she gets a zero for this folder and you definitely want to try to get as many points as you can on each of the folders Elizabeth is one of the shortest athletes as well what kind of factor is that it definitely is a factor at times she only has 15 seconds left here height can be an issue but the way the boulders usually work it can benefit it's taller or shorter they should have a mix so that they keep it as fair as they can on the 10 - so she runs out of time but at least she gets points in the last which would really help her because the zero would have been terrible next up on problem 1 for the men is Xander Waller one of the youngest male competitors at 15 years old and he's brushing these holds because he knows that other people are well one person has climbed on them and as a competitor you want the holds to be as fresh as possible for you so he took the time to brush them especially on a technical slab Boulder like the one he's about to get on fine coming into today was in 4th place and she is considered to be one of the favorites to make the Olympic team in Tokyo so that was a great job by the route centers because you see she almost was able to reach off the start foot because she's one of the taller competitors but they made it far enough to where if she even can't reach and has to put her foot up just like a shorter climber there Xander Waller he's trying to establish on the start because the way he got up he had to make sure that he got control of the start world before he can move with your huge bring it is easily making it over nice save on the ten having to do this mantle he's a little taller than Jordan and for a taller climber a mantle can be difficult as we just saw Claire making it nicely into the 10 zone hold - she'll have control of that the high point now now the hole she's on right now does not award you any points so right now her score would still be 10 on this Boulder 15 she has the 15 a right hand control with one hand but the finish hold you have to control with two hands sander wallah returning to the start you get your furthest checkpoint essentially every zone you achieve that is automatically your score you don't have to start at zero every time but you don't accrue any more points until you move to the next one exactly so if you happen to fall earlier on a fly it doesn't penalize you you just don't get any more points trying to figure out this mantle here doing a really good job here here's where that single leg comes in two for two here it's gonna be interesting to see if they give him control for the 15 because he didn't really hold it for long now he definitely has control but the first time you touched it might not have been long enough or establish enough probably be the better turn how wide is this hold he's gripping right now just probably half of your finger reaching for the 25 show in control and getting the top now even though the athletes can't see anything they can definitely hear the crowd 45 seconds left for Claire Burr fine and one of our favorites in the women's competition and she has the high point and she's figured out what she needs to do for the climb she has the 15 zone hold so right now what she's doing is just trying to make sure she's rested long enough but also still has enough time in order to what percentage should be completing each for the problems we should see a top on every Boulder maybe not by multiple competitors in every builder but every builder should at least be topped by eight competitors which like Claire is gonna call it quits after achieving the 15-point hold here on problem one still have not seen a woman complete it now that it's gonna be our leader Brooke rabbit - who will be on problem one seventeen years old from Boulder Colorado and simultaneously Elizabeth Sepulveda will be back at work our first female competitor on Boulder - so for the first time we've got four hats going at the same time eventually there's going to be ten on each of the five problems for the men and women definitely gonna get a little crazy this is Elizabeth Sapulpa and our first look at problem 2 which is based off what we could see the most likely to give us our cliffhanger moment definitely a very dynamic problem as you can see the start was easier but then getting to the five was much harder than actual establishing of the start Brooke Rabbit - our leader on problem one she finished in third in speed second in sport she's just trying to find the right body position so that she can get to the five actually opting for a very smart move trying to get her hand to that little screw on hold so that getting to the five is a little more controlled which she just did beautifully [Applause] [Music] even though she came back she still gets to ten she's trying to get herself in a better position yes she has the time [Music] reaching and coming off the wall remember that large black hole she's going for is not actually the 15 it's about one of two holds on the way to 15 here's our first look now at at Ross Fulkerson and Ross despite being back in the middle of the pack he's expected to do well in bouldering today yeah he's definitely a very successful builder that mantel move at the starts a little harder for him because he's one of the taller competitors but he was able to figure out get the five and now he's on his way to the ten very delicate movements just trying to figure out how to get the right body position so that he can definitely be in control for us Fulkerson getting the 10 zone and going straight into the mantle having two mantas on this builder is definitely gonna make it a little more time for these athletes triceps let's go back to Elizabeth's evolve in a first female trying to make this long jump it's very parkour as movement she was able to do the first jump though now into the mantle to get to the 25 oh nice Brava - trying to figure out his gonna get to that 25gb our first female athlete to do it trying to find the right position getting close 40 seconds left Gabrus of a second chance here what is saved from Brooke Rabbit - she was so close to getting the 25 and then almost off the wall but it was able to save it in order to minimize or minimize the amount of try she's doing about 20 seconds left here Jourdan Fishman has the five of was reaching for the ten but definitely it's not able to get it the athletes at this point are off the wall so it looks like everyone's going to move on to their next rest point and we'll get a new set of athletes on the first two boulders I think this boulder will suit Claire a little bit better as one of the taller athletes I don't think the jumps are gonna be as big for her but the top did look a little bit more likely for a smaller climber to do better at it when we come back we'll see Claire Burr fine except that cliff hanger in problem two less than 2 minutes left for Claire burr fine to find the solution to problem - she's gonna try and swing herself on to the 10 point hold unable to achieve that zone and problem 1 she reached the furthest point of any of our female athletes a fourteen point nine score again you're deducted a tenth of a point per fall on your way to your farthest zone here in Boulder and she makes this first jump look really easy and then she's gotten a lot closer each time and she's trying to go to the 10th in this kind of movement the more you do it the more you understand it the more your body kind of understands it so each time she should be getting closer and there's definitely the possibility that she's able to latch this ten point zone I went with a different idea this time up unbelievable but the interesting thing about this builder is it's not over yet got a very precarious finish with a very big sloping hold she's got [Applause] first off you're clarifying oh she's gonna be happy with that result that's why she's go to Tokyo she started to go with a different option for a second maybe trying to go more static and then switch back to the dynamic movement caught it one hand tried to throw second on and then just ended up with the one hand catch anyway very impressive by Claire bear fine so our first female competitor to solve one of these problems and reach the top 10 seconds remaining here on number 10 bones getting controlled but not able to figure out that mantel for a new set of athletes to tackle a in some cases a new set of problems again these 4-minute clocks start automatically as soon as it hits triple zeros the athletes on the wall have to come down and the new athletes immediately jump back up this is Brooke rabbit - and she is looking at Boulder number two 14.9 on problem 1 so the same score that clairebear fine had on problem 1 as well so this kind of climbing is something that really suits Brooke she's very dynamic very powerful does lots of jumping and is really good at controlling her body in that way but being a shorter climber I'm a little worried that the jump to the 10 would give her some problems but hopefully she's able to just figure it out Claire burr fine is 5 foot 10 and Brooke rabbit sue is 5 foot 1 so we'll see what the difference is right here so we already swinging so much short amount of time to figure out these kind of moves off-camera we saw Jordan Fishman on problem 3 be the first one to finish Boulder 3 here's the finish having two tops in this round now is probably gonna make him feel really good it was a very technical and dynamic boulder 2 things that Jordan is pretty good at so I'm not surprised he topped it but he has to be relieved in the four-minute clock time period to be able to do that Fishman came into the competition today in 10th place about 21 points behind drew wanna on the cut line but remember you multiply each finish in each of the three disciplines so if he's able to get a 1 for first place his score is not going to move and everyone else as they multiply their scores it's going to instantly move him up the standings here's another summit Zack gala on Boulder won definitely knows how to fly these movements I think she's kind of going with the wrong hand there she gets her left hand up it'll definitely be much easier just trying to figure out what she should do this is a climb where you'll see a lot of people depending on how their pain is kind of climb it differently Clare was kind of able to reach through the 15 a little easier but and she's gonna try to make it happen she's got one hand on 25 she needs to in control now what she can try to do is possibly he put both hands on 15 but looks like she's trying to just try to get it fit out to the oh wow Brooke with some crazy beta [Applause] so much creativity [Applause] Brava - getting a top number - and fighting as hard as you could fight our leader has her first summits of this bouldering session there are five total problems for each of the men and women 25 points for problem for a max of 125 this is Ross Fulkerson struggling to kind of move off of that number five zone hold working on prop Susie's have been frustrated that he's unable to make it further definitely frustrating I think that Boulder is a little wars it's a little tricky with the feet and the number five zone is another dual types one which we talked about yesterday so it's slippery on one side so even though you can grab it while your thumb is kind of slipping around so you don't have as much control on the hold as you would like on to our next 4-minute session this is the bouldering competition at the 2019 us a climbing combined invitational the champion overall here after sunday doesn't make the Olympic team for 2020 in Tokyo but they do make their journey a heck of a lot easier and really become the favorite to represent the USA exactly these athletes are just trying to get their chance to be on the team so that they can keep accruing points by competing in air international competitions sander wall are with the correct beta for this Boulder I talked to the route setters earlier and that is exactly how you need to do this move see his scores for the first two he was able to solve Boulder one and when he say beta that lingo is information this is information they have to figure out on their own as he jumps from almost has that control right there that is well know it probably isn't unless the judge it kind of up to the judge but I wouldn't give him the troll per se here's Claire burr find on Boulder three getting the five zone trying to get an e bar in there but I don't think that was the intended way that the route setter is designed it after a brush yeah as more and more climbers climb the boulders the holes get a little breezier is this an issue that she doesn't have a brush here should generally there are brushes but she wanted something smaller so that's kind of up to the climber to have a smaller brush but they have stick brushes around she's saying she's not allowed to use your own said the judges here that is an IFSP rule let's go back to problem one isabelle gifford problem two for his belt Gifford Zander a little problem Joe she's just trying to figure it out she's done the jump move to number five a couple times they can't quite figure out how to do this parkour move to this tangs own so she's just kind of resting a little bit because those dynamic moves can be tiring that declare birth I'm reaching and unable to make it to zone ten that's definitely an extremely powerful move coming off of an under claim here goes his both gift for trying to set up for the jump of not really getting the height they're definitely a lot of coordination going on to try to swing yourself from one side to the other and then try to jump really high up in the air here's Joe Goodacre kind of trying to figure out what he needs to do Joe Goodacre came in today in fifth place wasn't considered really one of the favorites when you go back to problem two huge jump yeah Joe code acre wasn't considered a favorite but he definitely has a shot only reason he wasn't really considered a favorite I think is due to his inexperience making another attempt at zone 10 trying to just fight as hard as she can on that undercling this is a big powerful move she's just coming short [Applause] he finally was able to the jump here he is on the jump he's been close so many times he finally sticks it and controlling that swing and avoiding falling off due to that barn door that kind of swing that we just saw is called a barn door it's where the leg attached to the wall and the hand is the hinge and the rest is the door exactly the four minutes have expired so a new set of athletes tackling the new set of problems here at the 2019 USA come climbing combined Invitational we're in Lehi Utah today for bouldering and here's our first look at a she Missouri she who yesterday won sports currently is in third place overall certainly one of the favorites to be in contention for Tokyo yes and as we saw yesterday she is a phenomenal sport climber but she also excels at bouldering and this type of climbing that we're about to see her get on with this kind of technical movement and lots of just on the wall time trying to figure out what body position area that's where she's really good at it rabbie to going for different way of doing this than Claire and again these athletes don't know what the previous athletes have even tried it they're figuring out everything on their own the second they turn to the wall yes they don't know the actual way in which another athlete did it climb now when you're sitting with your back turn to the wall you can kind of tell when somebody tops the boulder because the crowd goes wild but other than that you don't really know what's going on Seamus Sheree she and our winner of the sport competition the only athlete men male or female to reach the top of both of the sport walks a long time before she decided to get on definitely a very calculative and cautious climber what about bouldering is going to be more difficult for someone who excels in sport well first for a lot of sport climbers they're not usually as powerful as the boulder so the big power moves might be harder speaking of your item and but Wendy just sticking the number 10 zone with both hands as the shorter climbers probably need to jump with both hands and not with one knee it just 16 years old I think the cool thing about this specific folder is you do a jump at the beginning that's not that hard and then you do this crazy wild jump to the 10 zone but then it's still not over getting to the 15 is not easy still or haften you have to stay in it in order to figure out how to get to the 15 because it's still a very hard move more technical than dynamic but still very hard he is 16 years old as that to top 10 finishes so far and yet to get about 15 - there she is reaching that 10 point hold really nice foot placement and a really explosive jump I know she does some track and field so those powerful legs is definitely working to her advantage and as we saw yesterday she's a very good speed climber so she has a lot of leg power which was serve her well on a jump like that going back now to Jordyn Fishman he is on Boulder for our first male competitor Dan attempt this wall and his scores so far he had a top and problem three and it's interesting that he's faced out on this Boulder that could be the way to do it I mean he's the first person we're seeing all in this boulder but to Ashiya mr. Ishii figuring out how to get to the ten kind of slipping they're trying to place her heel in order to be more secure but unfortunately having a foot slip she really needs to get to the 15 only 20 seconds to do it she has to reach it with control before the clock hits triple zero final couple seconds here see if she can finish it before the time runs out good effort but no problem solve here we'll come back to bouldering in just a moment well at the end of that commercial you saw Nathanael Coleman holding a trophies hoping to do that again this weekend he is currently in a podium position but really it's all about making the top eight and Sunday's final here's Nathaniel Coleman his first attempt here at bouldering from nearby Murray eats on his first attempt at bouldering here [Applause] Nathaniel is trying to figure out as one of the tolerance is figuring out how to do that mantle he's reaching the top Boulder number one of all the boulders that I was looking at I five was a hoping and assuming that she would have a good time on that Boulder it's kind of all the things she's good at really flexible and really high feet high heel hooks and close to the wall climbing not so much jumping Nathaniel trying to figure out how to do this mantle with the number ten zone getting the number ten zone trying to figure out how to get up on it like I said before as a taller climber this kind of move is a little bit hard do you see how long his legs are as he's trying to get it up on that hold that isn't actually that good it's pretty slippery one minute left in this climbing period clear burr fine who has summit problem to already working on problem for now this Boulder is pretty difficult to get established on the start and get to the five and then you have to walk your feet across on these delicate holds as you see the one her left foot is on is one of those dual text holds so only that portion of the hold can she actually stand on and she's trying to find other places because there's so many holes do you say can mean she can try but it's slippery everywhere else that her foot is not exactly and it's highly unlikely that you're gonna be able to actually stand on the shiny part of the holes [Music] back to the family coleman known for buzzer-beaters and just pulling it out at the very end - let's see if he can get it [Applause] superclub you see he just went for it because he thought why not but at least he got to the 15 there's some other boulders in the round that I think will suit him a little bit better and he'll probably do better on where other people might do better on the one he just wasn't able to talk these are the bouldering qualifiers tomorrow the top eight men and women from qualifiers are going to move on and attempt all three disciplines in the same day so we'll see some more bouldering tomorrow here's Kai Lightner who has the biggest wingspan in the field and he is certainly a favorite to make it to tomorrow's finals he's currently in 7th place but both of his finishes so far been top eight that said there's quite a few athletes on the wrong side of the cut line who are certainly within striking distance exactly and one thing to note about Kai though he has a taller climber he has some insane flexibility so the mantles still gonna be a little more difficult for him but he can usually get his feet pretty high trying to figure this jump jumping is something that she does not prefer to do generally so she's really gonna have to go for it here established us trying to establish on the start here he has to put one hand on each because of the way he got onto the wall to be able to start moving on the boulder so now he has the five zone to a good start wingspan of six feet 8 inches helping establish control now control for both the start in any of the zones it's all about your hand so him jumping on doesn't really start the route that's why he has to reach exactly because he jumped on in a dynamic manner he never had touched the start holds with his hands so he had to stand there and figure out how he could actually reach down and touch the star hole but she did otherwise if he had and the judge would call him off and oh by the way begin with [Applause] the ten zone now he knows he has to do another mantle similar to the first move he did so he's just trying to figure out how he can get there in order to start that mantle it looks like he doesn't realize that he should come down to do it though I think now he's kind of figuring it out when you're on the wall you're trying to make good decisions but you also don't want to solve for no reason so you might hesitate going into a way like into a movement because you feel a little uncertain about how in control you are making this mantle look pretty easy just needs to make sure his foot is in the right place also had this chalk bag which you'll see some of the folders where a chalk bag some of them they they won't but it's really nice on these climbs where you know you're gonna be standing so you can chalk up again just trying to figure out how he can get over there to the 25 because he knows he doesn't really have enough time to start this build or over but he also knows he should be able to do it very good climbing very smart climbing he completes problem one Brooks on Boulder for while we were watching kindest dimensions that gallo was able to solve Boulder three so he's got a potential twenty five points score there this is Brooke rabbit to our overall leader coming into bouldering able to reach the top of Boulder two and she's going to tap out it looks like here we're seeing a lot of people struggle on women's number four because I don't think we've seen anyone get to the 10 zone those feet are really precarious super slippery and it's kind of a big move Zack gala with a nice top on men's number three really happy with that very powerful finishing move and as we know that gal is a super powerful climber after watching him spin climb yesterday he's shaking out his arms here trying to loosen up for the next three and a half minutes he gets to rest their athletes press on when you're climbing on these boulders sometimes you're exerting so much energy that your forearms end up so pumped that you need to shake out because you know you have for example Zack gala he has two more boulders he has to climb so he has to make sure he's fresh enough in order to do them clairebear fine number five getting control of the ten trying to work her way over there was a volume on the right side she's gonna need to get her right foot over there in order to keep climbing she's super secure right now with the heel hook but she doesn't want to let it out too aggressively because then it could pull her off the wall so she's just trying to figure out how to do it when with a dynamic root trying to be super coordinated and jumps to the hold and throw her foot at the same time this is Nathaniel Coleman on Boulder 2 trying to reach for a 25-point hold we have not seen a male competitor solve problem two and I believe the heat was just at the - problem - and this Boulder definitely suits his style more we have Jill Goodacre preaching Oh getting that 15 zone but having a hard time trying to figure out how to get to the twenty five halfway through this climbing period Josh Levin getting on the number-10 zone trying to looks like he's just trying to figure out how to control it Josh letting over on Boulder 124 years old from Sunnyvale he's in a qualifying position at this point in time and fourth place it's been top seven and speed and sport yesterday trying to figure out this mantle knowing that he has to do the leg press the Train stay as close to the wall as possible because if he falls out too much it might be harder for him to stand up but he figures it out nicely it's the 15 zone again nice to have that chalk bag when you're standing there you feel pretty secure hang out and figure out what to do next [Music] Margo Hayes taking a look at the wall she's attempted that jumped to the ten on this Boulder a couple times getting a hand on there just a little bit but she knows she's a little too shallow on the hold and she needs to try and figure out how she can get a little bit higher so she can grab that number ten zone just like grip starting face down couple ways to do this beginning kind of whatever you feel comfortable doing [Music] [Applause] here just a little short and she knows it just needs a little more power there still got times Josh Levin with the top I'm number one it's great for him you know Coleman getting one hand on the 25 but not able to get to so no time for him on number two but definitely the highway [Applause] see if she can get enough swinging enough power to get to this number 10 [Applause] by Margo trying to get a buzzer-beater no control for the 25 but she controlled the 15 so she was able to progress wait minute or was seconds left while she was up there joke good anchor was able to summit Boulder 3 but this move had all our attention back with more dynamic attempts here in bouldering qualifications [Music] [Music] back to bouldering here in Lehi Utah Sam Farber Meagan Martin here with you on qualification day to trying to make it to Sunday's final this is Brooke rabbit you came into bouldering as your overall leader trying to secure a spot in that final eight and right now she has the high point well her and Claire both have the high point because the black hold does not count but she's in a better position to go to the 15 super close very powerful moves on this Boulder seeing a lot of people stroke this is Kai lightener [Music] athlete currently in a qualifying position or visit to precarious one he's in seventh place came into today get a top on women's number one we've only seen one top so far Margot Hayes just coming up a little short but with one minute left it's a possibility that she can get back there again and maybe top this Boulder it's how it looks so far that the women's round we're only seeing a couple top so a top would be very good for anybody if they're looking to get into the final this is that gal on Boulder for which we have yet to see anyone top he got to the 15 zone earlier and he's already got two tops and problems two and three with I was gonna say it was only 20-something seconds left it's gonna be harder because this Boulder that he's on [Music] [Applause] highlighter trying to be the second athlete to summit problem - yeah [Applause] so Hibbert Athena will share that hi playing on number 2 in the 15 zone on to a new four-minute period there's Brook rabbit - going for that 25 just moments ago and making it so she's the only women woman so far with two tops which puts her in really good position able to figure out that really tricky and powerful Boulder and really good Brown for Brooke rabbit - definitely walking away with two tops she's gonna be positioned nicely especially since she's our overall our overall first place right now and she's done bouldering and has two tops and unlikely that anyone will get three this is Nathaniel Coleman [Music] he got super close to topic number two so he really does need to talk and I mean she knows that he's trying to set up properly to get to hands-on Coleman lots of time left so he can rest and then have another for image yeah those really fast so now he has the rest of this time to rest and then he'll sit for four minutes before his next folder so he's going to be able to recover a lot this time considering we're still looking for someone to figure out problem for that will certainly be to his advantage exactly max hammer getting the number five zone I'm problem number four a very tricky balance he as you can see he's kind of whenever he's on a hold he doesn't really seem like he's in control even though he does have control of the number five it's a precarious movement so it's hard to feel like you're totally in control and to keep moving easily next to him is Piper Kelly who was our winner in the speed discipline at a top-10 finish in sports so she's in a really good but was not expected to be necessarily a heavy favorite in ballroom this is Sammy singleton she is in case she falls she knows it's a big jump and she has to use all of her power and if she misses she knows that the big fall too she's trying to set up the jump but unfortunately those volumes that they're standing on they're definitely good but they can be very slippery as we've seen her seats just slip a little but every time she tries to generate that swing and you see she has angles tape so I'm sure she's not feeling super confident about doing these jumps back to Piper Kelly talking to some of the organizers and designers about American competition and competitors versus international they talked about how at a normal climbing gym a lot of the bouldering is straight up and down because you got a lot of athletes next to you too a lot of courses are you stay in your lane you don't risk jumping on someone and then the American athletes would go to an international competition and have a hard time because they do move side-to-side a lot so in the preparation for the Olympics they're trying to design more problems more boulders like this to get them ready for what they're going to see competitively in Tokyo exactly they've definitely started adjusting the route setting to be a little more internationally friendly more like the way the international competitions are going so that our athletes have more practice we see Sammy here standing just not able to figure out how to get the swing to actually get over successfully in order to jump piper Kelly's still trying to get her way to the five she's established on the start but five them got 10 athletes on the wall at any one time right now and got a least another hour and 15 minutes left here in the bouldering qualification Sam Farber Meagan Martin here with you and Lehi Utah we've got our next session underway getting a look here at that gala she's getting bolder five ready what's he doing here is he brushes some of these holds so the holds on this Boulder are very small and you see there on volumes and when you're looking at them you can see the shoe rubber on it and he's just making sure it's gonna be optimal for him to climb because he knows that he needs to get as far as he can on all the boulders so he wants to make sure he is setting himself up for success so it's good to brush the holds so that they're not as greasy because after more and more people climbing on them they become more and more Gracie [Applause] Kyle and I are just trying to figure out how he can get to the 25 this is where maybe his shank comes into play and it kind of messes him up because kind of a buncha section she's just trying to generate some power able to do it really nice and tight later two hands on the finish so he gets the top a very calm cool and collected at the top he was able to flash that Boulder which means he did it first try so he will get the full 25 points on that Boulder this is Colin Duffy who's really a fun story he is the youngest shortest lightest of our male competitors at 15 years old five feet tall a hundred pounds and yet he's in contention right now he finished fourth and sport he's in 10th place overall we're seeing that Zach gallery now get the hype I'm pretty sure the high point here he's just trying to figure out as you can see he can touch the 25 but he's just trying to figure out how he can get his body in the right position so that he doesn't slip and he can do control 25 cuz there's not much to hold on to and he does it our first top group men's number 5 that'll end the round for Zach and a way to end the round for him he's gonna have a great score overall here to multiple summits for him bouldering problems 25 points available per Boulder you have slight deductions for every fall you have but with a max score of 125 from what we've seen so far today to three summits should put you in a good position to be in the top ten yes for the men I think two to three is really good him for the women I honestly won top I think it's gonna put you in the top ten we're seeing fewer tops from the women Brooke rabbity with the only two tops just saw she mushy Rishi moments ago we saw Duffy reached the top of Boulder one five feet tall he doesn't have the height boast other climbers do but able to solve this one really good climbing from Colin Duffy and for him the mantles will probably be a little bit easier because he is a shorter climber definitely one of the boulders I would have expected him the top Seamus Cherise on problem for right now as you see she's not fared well so far our highest score as a nine point seven she really needs to try at a top getting the ten here would be really good and that was extremely close this is the kind of coordination climbing that I would say she is good at because it involves footwork not just dynamics movement she is so good when it comes to footwork is winding down this is Natalia Grossman but trying to make it there getting the 15 can she get to the 25 what move in 15 seconds she finishes out the back half of problem 2 we come back the cheap route Center for bouldering is going to join us Phyllis maybe this is what he had in mind birth woman's problem sir back to bouldering here in Lehi Utah that's Kyra Conde who just completed boulder number one on her first attempts and she is getting the 15 point zone and making that final move to get to the perfect score of 25 on Boulder one and we won't be back down to the competition floor Sam farmer maybe Martin Chris Danielson the chief route setter here for bouldering coming in the evil genius putting together these dynamic moves big jumps tiny holds thanks for taking some time as you designed these five problems for the men and women what is your chief goal what are you trying to test the chief goal is to test diversity of climbing styles to see who's the best all-around climber and we're trying to do that by how hard they can climb how many tries to take some and hopefully they have a diversity of style when you're designing a set of problems in your head at this level of competition how many athletes do you think are going to be able to figure out each one or potentially all fine our goal is usually to try to see every boulder topped to get every boulder done and it just depends on the round sometimes it's we expect maybe one to three can do it some problems we might expect have to feel to do it and sometimes we're right sometimes we're wrong it's a guessing game how would you say that the round is going right now is it going kind of the way you thought it would or a little different so far so good it's it's we intended it to be a hard round I would say in this case we have a qualification you know in the normal Boulder national or World Cup you have a qualification semi-final and final in this case there's just two rounds for bouldering so we made this a harder round knowing that it would tested the athletes you know as well as we could and it's going about as expected pretty hard no tops yet I think on women's three or four and if I'm right I think the men's have all been table so hard drives the women this is Chris Danielson chief route setter here for bouldering and watching Josh load and make an attempt to 25 just comes up as time winds down we're looking forward to seeing climbing make its Olympic debut in 2020 obviously you're taking a lot of different national route setters and maybe putting their minds together what do you talk about with some of those that might have some involvement in Tokyo in 2020 make sure that the American athletes are in the best possible position to score the most points in bouldering and win some medals a lot of what we're trying to do is push the athletes in all these different styles to get an idea what they might be presented with first in the World Cups or in World Championships and ultimately hopefully the Olympics so you see that in the round you see a lot of different types of climbing slab climbing big powerful jumps you know all the different things you can imagine and our job is just to try to diversify that see what we can do it's teamwork and I would definitely say that here you guys were able to diversify the boulder is quite a bit you've got a lot of different angles and you're using a lot of volumes so I think you're giving them a lot of diversity we're lucky with this wall it's really diverse and we see you know we see the climbers do what they can it's not easy for them but a lot of what we're trying to do is see how quickly they can figure things out this Thomas pitch and trying to figure out to the summit here on folder 5 you talk about how easy or hard it is to get up here I went to you know a few climbing gyms when I was much younger just getting on the start position for most of these boulders is difficult for the average person that's right one of the things about climbing it often can look easy when it's done well but every move is hard she had a cop Seanna cop looked like she was really close to the finish they're close to what Kyra did hey miss Sheree she really needs a good performance here on Boulder 5 - she's struggled and even though she came into today in third place overall if she finishes 10th or higher she's gonna see her score explode good position here finding that foot this is what it took for Brooke gravity to do it that's good I feel like this is one of the boulders that she would do better on kind of what she's good at and we're seeing that right now and she really does need a top plenty of time left - this is already her best Boulder trying to find this would really help her chances of making it to Sunday's final again we see her chalking up multiple times in those comfortable positions I mean comfortable for her just for her she's a special case when it comes to comfort on a climb she can be comfortable in that position all day yeah when you watch her climb and feel like she could just stay here all day she can actually shopping but she does still have enough time and I think she probably knows too what was really interesting with polytop is beta-2 it's he never used the 10 zone he went straight from the 5 and came in where other guys were grabbing the 5 with their left hand I can't stress how impressive this top is from Colin Duffy only seeing one top prior its shortest competitor in the field that's amazing definitely gonna help him with the ranking for sure Colin Duffy me coming in he was already interesting cuz he's the youngest sees the smallest he's the lightest basically looks like boy amongst men and yet he's in a really good qualifying position right now he finished fourth in sport and he's got two summits from the first two boulders that it's really amazing that that second Boulder problem for the men we certainly had expected maybe the least amount of tops on and so far it's I think showing that to be the case although the fourth is also hard and that's just amazing from calm 10 seconds left in this climbing period Te'o wolf trying to score some more points and can't quite reach zone 10 or sit with Chris Daniels in the chief route setter here for bouldering you guys are both saying dynamic versus technical a lot for someone who's not used to bouldering what does that mean in terms of types of movement types of holes so yeah what we're seeing a lot of in problems 2 & 3 4 4 2 for the women 3 for the men is dynamic moving you just you see it right there people jumping around a lot of gymnastic movement that's different from technical balance static movement which we just saw with a shimmer for example on number 5 so we're trying to test all those things and each problems going to have a different flavor so dynamic you're looking at jumps if we're doing gymnastics we're talking about the people doing backflips flipping up in the air and for the technical you're talking about stretching flexibility yeah flexibility balance strengthen the fingers body position body position is important as we seen with Kyra here to trying to figure this jump out dynamic loops aren't just about can you swim around and find the way it's it's also about body position so it's a you need technique to do it but normally when we talk about technical climbing we CCC here on number five [Music] [Applause] very good very similar to Boulder number one when she was the first top yeah as long as she can figure out if she wants to [Applause] no haze I think two tops got to talk for her cuz she wasn't able to match 25 on number two but to talk on Dione boulderr2 he's able to reach the top of Boulder one already so this would be a phenomenal start if she can get to that very interesting she's going wow that's what's Brooke rabbit to his math didn't she and that's not control she does still have plenty of time luckily so she's got a 15 at this stage the link in that zone yes she has a 15 got Carla Traverse see on the left oh now we have Josh Levin trying to figure out how to get to the 25 this 25 hold it's quite bad this might might be one of the hardest moves in this round a competition that's really impressive that's a great example of static versus dynamic it shows the static method I remember watching Zack gala he tried to go dynamic it didn't work got a minute 20 left in this round before I let you go Chris some of these boulders 1 & 3 for the member scene five six competitors completed halfway through as a route setter does that excite you or does that frustrate you that they were able to solve your problem both most of the time it excites us the most exciting moments are when also the climbers do things we don't expect and we've seen that a few times already today Kyra's gonna try it again right now our economy making another attempt here at 25 [Applause] [Music] where she got stuck before whoa Brooke rabbits who did that method but brought the left hand down here we've got summit for John Brock Don brah tallest athlete on the men's side at six foot three he's able to solve men's Boulder number three Kyra is not giving up she is gonna try and do this Boulder 15 seconds left doesn't look like she's gonna make it well Chris we appreciate you joining us here on set best of luck tomorrow you got five more problems to set for the men and women thanks very much we got some work ahead of us we're looking forward to seeing I like the cliffhangers personally don't get some of those will Charlie go through our baths proceedeth today asking you shall receive baby Chris Danielson chief route Center here for bouldering we'll come back in a moment to the 2019 us a climbing combined invitation the 2019 us a climbing combined Invitational is brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 just a minute ago Colin Duffy the baby-faced bouldering expert made it three for three on the first three bouldering problems I mean he's like an animal today he is just crushing these boulders and look at how focused he is three top I think that's the most or at least tied with the rock turn around and I mean the rest of the boulders I think will suit him well - I thought he was gonna struggle on a couple of them just because the moves were so big but he was able to figure out a way to do it for his size this is Benjamin Hanna getting control of that 15 zone for Ben Hanna to do well here in bouldering needs a lot of help to make Sunday's final like christmasing Benjamin just tried to go dynamically to 25 and earlier when we saw Josh Levin top it see see with some different betas she was just trying this and happened to fall as she matched let's see if she can get both hands a little bit jarring they're not giving up though 20 seconds of hopping on this Boulder [Music] you [Applause] [Music] got a shot five seconds fighting from the very last second I'm pretty sure she really has like one finger with her left hand on and a whole hand with her right hand she is exhausted when totally worth it buzzer beater on boulderr2 for someone who was in a bubble position at seventh place coming into today nails that jump really well kind of never really stops moving because she knows she's fighting the clock get their hand in there she's able to kind of jam her hand and you see she kind of doesn't get her left hand but just one finger on there but that's still a match because it's two hands [Applause] she's someone who is maybe more of a speed specialist coming into the competition that's been her best event so far so just one top might be enough to move her into Sunday's final we'll have to see totally she's definitely more of a speed specialist but a very good holder as well sport is definitely where she is kind of the weakest in terms of all three disciplines Carlo traversée was able to flash problem one and he's going to make an attempt here on folder number two Carlo our oldest competitor at 30 years old it was considered someone who's going to have a shot bouldering certainly his best discipline but he finished dead last in speed so he's got to do extremely well here to have any shot at making the fire he definitely does need to do well and flash you the first boulder puts him off to a good start and you know what I would expect from him same kind of beta that I use except calling didn't go to the 10 but ordering is where Carlo is so strong he has the most experience out of anyone in this competition when it comes to bouldering not only in competitions in doing well but also bouldering extremely hard things outdoors never Meagan Martin here with you and Lehigh tomorrow we're back to Salt Lake to see the top eight men and women make their way towards potentially a spot on the national team for World Cup competition and one step closer to Tokyo in 2020 Maggie hammer now attempting this big cliffhanger moved on Boulder Chu she's just trying to figure out how she can set up for the jump as one of the shorter climbers she really knows she needs all the power she can get but it's kind of hard right there as you see she's she's trying to swing trying to get the power but can't quite figure out how to not [Applause] and quite dude she's the lightest athlete in the women's field of 93 pounds helper hurt and when he for making that kind of jump on those powerful movements it makes it a little bit harder because she has so much more she needs to generate because being one of the smaller competitors means she's just laughing some power and extra muscle probably Josh Levin able to top Boulder five with one minute left here in the round extremely good round for Josh Levin hasn't done so well in bouldering in more recent years so it's really nice to see him kind of figure it out this is John Rossler who won the speed discipline was back in the pack in sports I expected him to do a little bit better in sport but I will say I think he is probably better at bouldering than he is sport so hopefully he can make something happen here definitely would need to get a top to kind of get this round off to a good start for him getting the zone on the five right now we have 20 seconds left for him it's gonna make it a little tricky but definitely still possible trying to get to that 10 zone with 10 seconds left it's not really able to get that mantle but second ago we saw kiritani get the number 10 zone on women's number 3 which we haven't seen yet she was trying to get to the 15 but wasn't able to do it but the number 10 and number 3 will definitely help her with her scoring since she wasn't able to top number 2 she gets some rest here Collin Duffy is getting ready to make his first attempts on problem for for the men he has gone 3 for 3 so far the fifteen-year-old five-foot-tall ordering Sivan I'm really interested to see him climb on this specific folder there's a lot of holes on the wall so I think that can work to his advantage in terms of trying to figure out a different way to do it and so far we're seeing him kind of cruise this already has the 5 zone trying to figure out how to get to the 10 there's no foothold on that volume so he's trying to make sure he doesn't slip and hold the body tension it's the Tendo problem under 15 this is still his first try in my field of clash it looks like he's gonna try to go dynamically which is a little more difficult I think [Applause] I think that's the most go far kill it in the folders today he might be able to move up in the rankings I was kind of worried about this dynamic finish but he was able to get a tow hook as he did this move if you look if we can see his toe at all which we can't but it is underneath the volume and it sucked him in and made him be able to grab the 25 and match it and get that top he came into today at 99.5 two flashes four problems tops he came into today having finished seven in speed fifth in sport sorry my mistake 18th in speed fourth in sport he had 72 points overall his 21 points back of that eight plates cut line but if he finishes first and bouldering which right now he's in position to do his score is not going to move everyone else is going to move up at least x two he'll be in a qualifying position he'll make it to Sunday exactly he's in a great position right now to have a chance with that final win the last time he saw someone at this level of competition go 5 4 5 I don't know actually 5 4 5 sometimes I have full during nationals nathanael Coleman has gone forth before it last few years that's been impressive but you know for such a young athlete with Colin Duffy this is only his second open competition ever done cesira Blair Coyle attempting Boulder - she looks a little nervous about this jump although I honestly feel like she's pretty good at the kind of moves she practices them a lot [Applause] she really needs a good performance in bouldering she hasn't been in the top ten in either the first two disciplines and came in as least a favorite to make it to Sunday's final she's gonna need to do well here and get some help definitely one of the favorites meets the final bouldering is her specialty though this specific Boulder I wouldn't say is her full specialty she's pretty coordinated but the bigger jump is a little more powerful and she's a very good technical climber and Static climber more so so the bigger jumps are kind of hard coordination why she's really good like I'm thinking for her number four we could see her do something amazing on because it's coordination but more on a technical surface and Hannah 15 seconds left has to get to the top both in probably five and I not sure he got it he definitely did not get it he got two hands up there but never showed control so there's no top for Ben Hannah number for close but not quite in fact with more bouldering from the two USA climate combine Invitational after this back to bouldering here in Lehi Utah we are taking a look right now at Carlo traversée on men's problem three he's looking super casual a second ago he was canvassing which means he didn't have a seat on anything and he was coming in to number 15 trying to make that last move just a little foot flip there but plenty of time to get back on there in the beginning didn't look too taxing for him so I think he'll be able to pull it out Mikaela Kirsch at work on women's problem 2 this supplies the biggest cliffhanger moment of any of the boulders definitely a big cliffhanger moment here for this jump that she's about to set herself up for she's tried it a couple times just trying to get the power to get up on the number 10 that was the closest attempt I've seen so far so I think she's kind of figuring out how she needs to do it like I said before these kind of movements the more you do it the more you start to understand it is tempting Boulder number one very good save good top for Joe Diaz you just joining us bouldering we've got five problems for the men five problems for the women to match score is 25 you get deducted ten to the point were fall Carlo trying to get both hands on the finish we can get the time the top for Carlo so his second top of the round I believe and he got pretty far on number two which would be very helpful Makayla getting so much closer to the 10 zone that time she is a little bit of time left luckily it's just that move and then I think she'll be able to figure out the rest quickly if she can just latch the number 10 zone Kyra up on women's number four in the five zone just trying to figure out how to get to the ten we haven't seen anybody figure out how to do it yet this looks very good very smart climbing it's a very interesting movement because you needed to use some momentum but it's very controlled momentum and I think everyone else earlier was trying to go too fast to the number 10 and they weren't able to do it [Applause] should be able to get to the 25 she looked at the clock for a second the highpoint will definitely help her in the round and she should be very happy with that although she doesn't know who else is doing so she feels like she probably needed stop it alright Colin Duffy at the right edge of your screen is getting ready to attempt to be the first athlete male or female to go 5 4 5 - the last two boulders being he got it on his first attempt exactly and he's having a little trouble because he can't seem to reach with the start to get over he was just feeling the holds but he hadn't come off of the ground yet so it's okay and doesn't count as an attempt until your whole body's off the ground so that would count as in the tip that is his first attempt yes he's the shortest competitor at 5 feet tall how much of a disadvantage is that for him on this particular problem I think for the end of this problem it'll be to his advantage but the beginning I think it's gonna make it a little more tricky for him just because he's kind of more spread out than everyone else and we're seeing him struggle a little bit but we're only a few like really a minute into this folder so I think you'll be able to figure out something to do [Music] that does count as an attempt because he had all four points of his body off the wall or off the ground the good thing is the moves that he's struggling on right now aren't that hard and he can keep trying a bit more and have time to kind of get further on the boulder come back to him Sienna cop is on woman's problem for also struggling to find her way to that five zone each hold for the zone is marked with the orange tape it's really mad folks is on his first Boulder here one of our taller climbers so the mantle here might be a little difficult but he seems to be having not much problem so that as long as he can get his foot up I think home stand up no problem very strong super powerful climber I get another bubble athlete coming into today in 12th place but a very good bold work yeah this is where he's looking to leave up in the rankings and hopefully get a shot at the final gets the number 15 [Applause] one hand on the finish two hands at the top for baffle it's great way to start the round cuz they have Colin Duffy was just able to get off the start he's got the tender and see this is where I think he's not gonna have too much trouble being able to top because of the shorter climber you can kind of stand on the feet but see if he gets the right body position just needs two hands on there and needs to show control [Applause] I'm sure he has to be ecstatic here's the early portion missing beta really close to the ground with his feet but he's small enough that he didn't touch the ground so he's able to keep moving work his way up and I didn't think he'd struggle too much here being smaller and though those holds being closer to each other - he was able to pull it out great second open competition for Colin Duffy I'm gonna go out on the limb say Colin Duffy we're gonna see him tomorrow I would I think that's a fair limb to go out on he was tenth coming into today remember the way you figure out the score is you take your placement your ranking in each of the three disciplines and multiplying together so if Duffy right now he's in first let's say he stays there his score of 72 is going to be the same at the end of the day say they finished second you multiply their score by two so we'll have to wait and see but there's a very good shot we will see him in the final another round in the books and then Colin Duffy first competitor to go five for five and already had a great finished fourth place in sport so he's in good shape here is our leader coming into today Sean Bailey he was able to reach the top and one of the two climbs in sport and really he reached the top in both but he controlled it in why they didn't in the other exactly he kind of fell out of the finish hold on his first route yesterday I expect to see this Boulder be one that he figures out pretty quickly he's pretty technical he is a pretty technical climber also does have a lot of power he knows that he really shouldn't fall in there hence his reaction just trying to take a step back calm it down sometimes it's hard especially when you've been warming up in isolation you come out your first time is at this angle which is a slab angle where it's subtle movements you don't want to make any mistakes and if you're already moving too fast you can kind of throw yourself off the wall so he slowed it down a bit cuz the he's gotten the number-5 just trying to get over to the number-10 zone [Applause] he has control of the tent because he has moved his body while being on the tent hold so now he just needs to figure out how to mantle it up as we seen the other climbers do pretty casual same thing just trying to keep those movements slow enough and not rush them when you need to be delicate because you don't want to blow it here Sean Bailey doing a very good job two hands on the finish top for Sean Bailey while we were watching him home to go Kyra Conde on Boulder five one try was all she needed really good for Kyra another flash in this round I figured she would like this Boulder it's it's not the most straightforward of the boulders but if you could kind of figure out what you need to do it put you in the right position and a lot of these climbers are so strong on those types of holds and they're able to top the boulder because of it two tops for Kyra Conde in the round she came into today in fifth place with a couple of top-five finishes already that puts her in a really good spot it and we've seen a couple athletes reach the top on multiple boulders so I don't want to get too far ahead of myself but she's in a pretty good spot right now we definitely don't know the exact scores but it's brooke and margo and Kyra I believe with two tops each and Kyra has two flashes though so that'll work to her advantage if she can pull out a one it'll put her in a really great spot there's no orig right now five and he reaches the top really good climbing from Noel Ridge on that Boulder just trying to make sure you don't move too fast again on a boulder like that it's all about the subtle movements this is Joe Diaz who was top ten in sport working right now on folder two he has control of the five zone we've seen a couple ways to do this Boulder in general some people choose to use the 10 Colin Duffy chose not to fire to the 15 kind of lost it with the swing so there's no control there of 15 but at least he got the 10 that's gonna be too much time for him though Harlow going for the carload choosing this skip to 15 and try to go to 25 just because he was running out of time unfortunately it didn't work but definitely a possibility that it could have and in bouldering there's no penalty for skipping that zone there is no penalty for skipping if he got the 25 he would receive 25 points but you can't get the 15 unless you control the next zone right you can't get this own unless you control that we'll be back in a moment for more bouldering here in Lehi earlier in bouldering we saw Colin Duffy go five for five and right now drew rowana one of the guys Colin was chasing goes for four four just completing Poulter for all smiles right now as he was our bubble athlete coming into today's last day of qualifying for tomorrow's final and I mean when the guy chasing you hit par five four five you got to do something special exactly and drew on its handling the pressure very well he is a bouldering specialist and a sports specialist in my opinion so I'm not surprised that he's climbing so well but it's good to see him be able to figure out this is Colin wills our final male competitor to tackle Boulder one gone so fast me I know there's so many things happening I can't believe we're almost to the end Colin doing a great job control of the 10 zone just trying to figure out how he can get up onto that mantel press does it gets to the 15 he's done enough time he doesn't need to rush he does not have a chalk bag so this is kind of where if you were wearing a chalk bag you might want to chalk up just because you've been using your whole hand to press their losing chalk as you move but we'll see what he does here hopefully he can figure out a way to get over that microscopic hold if there wasn't a tag there you wouldn't know it was there 5 well sometimes it's hard to see if the holes are black there you go it's hot for Colin wills hands on the finish moments ago on Boulder five for the women's Siena cop another top for her she's having a really amazing round we saw her fight so hard a number two in here she chose for a woman's number five with another top very pleased with that really nice bata at the top a nice toe hook on that black sloper Chris Anna cop using her length to her advantage on that one so multiple tops for her we've got our leader for the men Sean Bailey back on the wall on problem - Sean twenty-two years old would you say that's the prime of your climbing career at this stage of the sport I would say 22 is a great age and could be called a prime I think for the medics go a little later than the women these days but 22 is the perfect age definitely the right time then looking ahead to Tokyo I mean some sports it's a one and done proposition gymnastics you don't see a lot of athletes get multiple tries at an Olympic gold so Sean might be in his sweet spot now but he might only get one chance in a movie might be the first chance I mean I feel like he is gonna really good the spot so but definitely set up nicely what I love about this builder specifically is that there's so many different ways to do it we're gonna have to see him set up for the jump to 15 which seems to be the hardest move tries to stop his swing but his legs were kind of color caught helicoptering as we would say for an elite climber like Shawn as we see another attempt here at 15 see his legs kind of swinging and he kind of kind of pulls him off the wall in a spinning motion where Joe Diaz reaching the top of Boulder 3 for these elite climbers say they're you know they have especially how much time do they spend in each discipline knowing that they're now going to be tested in all three and these combined form at competitions bouldering and sport definitely kind of help each other out like it's easy for people to be working out and doing a lot of bouldering and sport climbing to complement each other very well it kind of makes you a better climber to do both of them and excel it both of them so to find time for those two is pretty easy I think trying to find the time to work speed into your routine is a little bit harder another attempt for Sean Bailey here but your if you were the judge you're not giving him control for that no he never stopped moving and so he never really showed control of 15 so to me is doesn't matter you have to show that you have established on the cold in order to get that point traversée his final Boulder potentially in the competition he was not in a great qualifying position coming into today yeah unfortunately I think he would have needed to do a little better in the bouldering in order to possibly make it into tomorrow but I do believe he should be able to figure out a way to top that folder a little bit of too much fast movement there he needs to kind of slow it down in order to figure out the right body position to get to him look like as he was coming off he knew he hadn't done it then flashed a glance at the judge like one minute left here in the round another attempt for Sean Bailey on Boulder to definitely need you to see if he can figure out how to get some that 15 and control the swing you might be able to do it see if we try something different yes he left his left hand down on the smaller crimp hold in order to control the swing so now he has the 15 but he still needs to figure out this difficult way in which he needs to get to the 25 looks like the right beta to me nice and in control have to get two hands on though for a top working his way up to the better part of the hole just to secure it two for two right now really good way to start this round having two tops already ten seconds left we're gonna have another athlete go for five four five drew rawana seeing it go figure out the right body position in order to get into to get two hands on this not quite enough time so close but not quite for Carlo Sean Bailey though two for two really smart move here you see he holds the left hand to control his swing he keeps it on that small crimp and then really smart going into the hold that is above the 15 with his left hand as a nutter clang to get into a secure position in order to reach the final cold and not be flying around more more static way to finish that Boulder we're in our final few rounds here in bouldering this is drew wanna party on and to be the second athlete to go 5 for 5 on these bouldering problems he's already on to the 10 so he's off to a really good start looks like he's done all the boulders pretty quickly too he has two flashes so far this would be a third he's close already make it five there we go flash for jooveron drew who won he did that so fast I don't think the crowd noticed he was up there barely over a minute so drew ruana goes 5 for 5 so does Colin Duffy and being told he has passed Colin in the overall total so he as the first place competitor really has secured himself a spot in tomorrow's final 4/10 better than Colin Duffy but Khan still in a really good spot if he were to finish second even though his score is gonna multiply by 2 the other athletes that were in front of them they're gonna multiply by much more than that exactly and I think Colin's in really good spot as long as he kind of in the top three I think he should be able to get in there for the final because the other climbers are gonna be moving all around so we'll just have to wait and see after we get the resistance generally in this competition format a top three finish in one discipline is better than maybe being top ten in all three is that how it tends to work or what what's the path of least resistance to making a final for the specific discipline if we were just doing one discipline at a time you want to be like in the top five in your discipline because the lower ranking will not really help you but in the combined event it's different because we're multiplying all those all the rankings from each discipline so obviously if you're in the top five [Applause] because bouldering is such a wild-card as you can see there's so many variables we have five boulders different styles so it can make people end up being in so many different places than you thought they would Matt faults falling off the wall there on problem 3 he is one of the gentlemen within striking range but started the day outside the top eight this is the bouldering qualifiers in the 2019 u.s. a climbing combined invitational Sam Farber alongside former US national team member Meagan Martin you were invited to this competition had an opportunity to compete does he look here at the bouldering I know this is one of your specialties how how badly do you want to get on this wall right now I wish I could be climbing on the wall but I I mean not right now I'm happy to be commentating but if I can climb on these later I'd be extremely excited because bouldering definitely is my specialty but very happy to be in the booth we're happy to have you here winding down here in this session I'm gonna step aside after and when we come back we'll see Sean Bailey the tattoos stapler Miami dear we just saw struggling to get to the tent she is uploader specialist so it's unfortunate to see her having such a difficult route here but kind of how boulders go sometimes she's gonna come off the wall we come back back to our men's leader coming into today Sean Bailey well I really thought when we went to commercial we'd see Sean Bailey attempt Boulder 3 live but here's the replay of what he just did he got this Boulder so quickly he read the betta perfectly and he actually finished this Boulder a little differently than we've seen he kind of chose to use a heel hook and then start to mantle up putting him in a really nice secure position to slowly reach to the finish so John Bailey three four three now we've seen two male athletes go five four five Bailey deducted a tenth of a point per attempt but he's been very successful Makayla Kirsch I think that's her first top of the round she knows that it's probably not enough to make up for the point it's a maze but really good climbers from Michaela using the tow hook beta that we've seen a few times as a shorter climber having to pop her left foot up a little to smear against the wall and grab the finish hold two hands and get a top and as you mentioned we're unsure how that top will move her how far up in the rankings for bouldering that top will move her but she was in a pretty precarious position coming into today only male athlete attempting the wall right now is John Ross lair and he is over figure out which body position he needs to get into to finish this Boulder this kind of does not look like the stance that I would think would work unless he can get his foot up which is very high foot but I mean maybe he could do it he was the speed winner and can't quite get that second hand up there he's got 40 seconds does he trying to have time to make it up again when it's your last Boulder in a qualifier you always try again you don't have to save any energy anymore so I bet he'll try it again he just needs a figure out how to move his body positioning to the right a little more maybe be a little lower because he's a little high right now to come into that very bad finish hold there's not much there there's a tiny little hole that's screwed on in the corner but that's about it as you saw he has not done very well today in bouldering does have that first-place finish in speed to fall back on he could use 25 points right now he could definitely use 25 points time and you can't have to move slow on this one so I don't know I don't think he's gonna have enough time but gonna happen well next time we come back we will see Sean Bailey he'll be hon problem for about four minutes from now here in Lehi Utah final few rounds of bouldering here today in Lehi the 2019 us a climbing combined Invitational you're looking at Matt both from he has now at his third top out of four attempts here that's huge for him as he was one of our bubble athletes on the wrong side of the bubble came into today in 12th place but strong boulderer this was a chance to make a move definitely a chance to make a move in this round probably would have liked to top all five but he still has a chance to get four in there which should improve his ranking and hopefully move him up and give him a shot to make it to the final just to clarify it was his third Boulder out of four different boulders not attempts to reach the top so for scoring purposes if you're scoring at home that makes a huge difference if you're scoring at home god bless you here's our last competitor working right now on problem three he was in this position a few seconds ago and couldn't quite figure out how he could get to the top we've seen this betta work not sure if it's the right beta for him but oh so close he still has time to figure it out luckily it doesn't take too much time to get back to the 15 zone hold but we'll have to see if you'd be able to pull it out in the last few seconds Miami Dare from Stanford California our final female competitor trying to not the round she needed she struggled a bit in this round but ending around at the top is always better than ending with no tops back to problem three [Applause] call him back in that same position we just saw him in closer decided to go with that different beta maybe if he had used that beta earlier he might have been able to stick it but I think he's getting a little bit tired as the round went on going to problem for now is Sean Bailey he was our leader heading into today with the first-place finish in sport and right now at least at this stage he's had worst in third place moving in to wall four we've only seen two athletes complete all five of these Boulder problems so he's got a chance to possibly have two first-place finishes in these qualifying rounds yeah he's definitely in a really good position right now with how he's been climbing throughout this round I do think that he'll do well on this builder I think he he has very strong fingers and you're seeing a lot of smaller folds with that are only reaching down to like a half a pad of your fingertips he's also very flexible and his 5/7 so I think that that kind of works well for these last two builders not being too tall this is kind of helpful as you see who's me is so high up close to his chest and there we go another [Applause] the top control of that 25.4 Sean Bailey just working his way up in this round make it look very easily he's four for four he'll try and join Colin Duffy and true Rihanna's the only male competitors or competitors period to go five for five this is Joe Diaz on Boulder five one hand up on 25 finding that body position it's really subtle but if you can get in the right position you're noticing that the men are not having too much of a hard time getting both hands on the finish if everyone off the wall right now we'll take a closer look at Sean Bailey his score through four Boulder problems almost as strong as you can get he is coming into today considered one of the favorites in this overall competition you see a near-perfect score at three tenths off we'll talk more about Sean and the future for him as a competitor maybe in Tokyo we return welcome back to the 2019 us a climbing combined invitational Sam Farber Meagan Martin here with you as we've got our last few male competitors working on these folder problems there Sean Bailey who's gone four for four so far he's certainly one of the favorites to win this competition has done well in sport and now obviously doing great in bouldering if he were to make the Olympics in Tokyo does the fact that he hasn't fared very well in speed become a big factor if he wants to contend for a gold about is is that the separator or can he overcome that with how good he's been in the other two disciplines I think coming into Tokyo that would be a separator but lucky for him he has enough time to get better at speed and he's already shown that he's improved a lot when it comes to the speed discipline so I'm honestly not too worried about him as long as he keeps it together he'll be good mat folks brushing up the holes here before he attempts Boulder 5 we also have Colin wills on the course she's working on Boulder 4 as he makes his first attempt good start for Colin wills wasn't able to top Boulder one earlier so not be his first time reaching the top of one of these problems and he definitely would need a top in order to help but I'm not on I'm honestly not sure I feel like you would have had to have a more more dramatic and stellar performance in order to be considered for the final unfortunately but he is a young climber he's only 17 so he was 21st and speed 19th and sports who dug himself a very big hole as you mentioned 17 years old lots of room to grow Matt falls quickly making work of men's number 5 as a taller competitor he's a little more bunched there but looks like he's able to figure it out and with another top multiple tops for him in his bouldering competition today and Matt came in and 12th so we'll see he's definitely given himself a chance at making the final tomorrow and I believe that's four tops from for him so he's definitely gonna be higher up in the boulder rankings which will really help him a lot so we'll just have to see : Will's trying to figure out if he made me do something else with his reach they're trying to test it out without actually getting on the climb and wasting attempts see what he does here see if he changes the way he wants to climb this Boulder back on the number 5 zone mold just 17 years old how much value is this experience being in this kind of competition for his future for his future being able to compete in such a prestigious competition like this one is definitely helpful for him he's also done some World Cups in bouldering and Pan Americans so he's done a lot of bigger competition so it's only going to help him adjust gets the number tens Oh No but those feet are so slippery he needs to figure out a way to end the other hand on the hold that's underneath the number ten hole trying to control that swing a little slip gets him off the wall to put it in perspective at 17 when we get to the 2024 Olympic kind of qualifying schedules he'll be the same age then that Sean Bailey is now so they're different climbers who knows what he'll turn into but he's got a long time to get to maybe that peak performance age that Sean Bailey is sitting in at this moment exactly and a lot of that athletes are in that position where you know if it doesn't work out right now for them they're young enough to where they should have another chance right now you see him doing what he was kind of thinking about doing earlier we spread his arms out seeing if this is going to be easier for him to get into the right position looks a little tricky risky moves there but you never want to be in a box when you're trying to figure out a little problem because sometimes you need to try different things in order to make the moves work if you try the same thing over and over again it we might never figure it out only one competitor on the wall right now and that is Sean Bailey who has gone four for four so far and he takes a look at problem five what about this very well another technical boulder with small holds and he has very strong fingers as one of the medium height ranged climbers he's not going to end up feeling super bunched at the top which would be really good and he's very flexible so you'll see him move his hips a lot drop his knees and get himself into the right body positions and it's he's able to do it easily as long as he doesn't get confused and get out of sequence or something I could see him flashing this Boulder which is the five-point zone Tim very good position gets to the 15-hour heads for the 15 now has it so now he just need to figure out the right body position so if he doesn't run here he could possibly fall but if he can be smart enough like keep two hands on the top another flash which means he ends up with I think three flashes from the round putting him in a very good position possibly really good spicy at least in the top three he's in the top three for sure take another look at his ascent here really easily got to 15 and I actually thought this next part was really interesting because he reached through the little screw on hold on the volume getting it and then he had to slowly switch his feet in order to come in and match but like I said he has really good body control an extremely strong climber all around and just made it work while we've got a moment here we're gonna take at the women's standings these are unofficial to moment there's a review period but the projected qualifiers in the number one position is Kyra Conde with an outstanding overall performance are the twenty year old from Shoreview Minnesota she's right now in the number one position came into today and number five and she's joining us here on set Kyra congratulations excellent performance today you came in in fifth place were you expecting to see here in bouldering well bull brings my favorite discipline it's like what I focused on for the last couple years and so I was pretty confident coming into today's round but you know with bouldering it's kind of all over the place sometimes so you never really know but I'm really happy with it and I'm sure coming out on women's number one and flashing it gave you a little boost going into the round right yeah definitely that's a sign that I wouldn't say it's necessarily my style as well and so having that little confidence boost at the very beginning of the round definitely helped we're in this combined format the first competition early nationally where you guys get to see what's going to happen come Olympics how much of a value is it to go through qualifying in the number one position you know know what you're capable of does you look ahead towards potentially 2020 in Tokyo yeah you know it's really interesting to see how everything plays out you never really know I like to think that I'm a pretty good combined athlete I've done speed for you know many years which is a big advantage because a lot of the people who are you know bouldering specialists or sports specialists haven't done a whole lot of speed but I did it when I was a youth climber so that's like a pretty good advantage for me and then I've just been really focusing I'm working on my weaknesses like sport climbing and you know getting better at speed and I feel like it's working out well but it's really cool to see how the whole thing plays out how much of a carrot is that it is the you know this being an Olympic sport for the first time you've obviously dig quite a bit of your life to climbing but you know how much of an added incentive is it that you could be an Olympian maybe a gold medalist in a year from now yeah you know it's crazy I never had that Olympic dream of the kid because it wasn't a sport that was in the Olympics you know I was a gymnast expensive you see in the future of the possibility about with climbing it wasn't even in the Olympic so it's like well I hope one day it's in it but you know it's not something you really dream about because it didn't seem like a reality but now that it is a reality it's something that you know you've seen so much excitement in the climbing community about and people are stoked and I'm stoked for sure we want to keep you here so let's have you do a little analysis too we're gonna we're gonna put you to work on was our last male competitor to give a shot here on Boulder five and you know for all of these it's really you know they're not gender specific so if you were attempting Boulder five what are you looking at here how would you divide your plan so with our scoring system in the u.s. we have the 5 10 15 25 as I'm sure you guys have been talking about but that definitely gives you some clues about how the boulder is supposed to go so this one is something kind of cryptic if you if there was no point say you wouldn't really necessarily know kind of what holds they expect you to go to first and so having that there is like really useful especially for something like this because you can kind of think oh I'm gonna grab five and then I'm gonna go out to ten first sometimes it messes you up because sometimes it could be easier to go to 15 but it does give you those clues which is really helpful and so that's kind of something that I would look at first I kind of identify those point values where they are and then how I'm gonna get there and sometimes they do that they actually kind of trick you and they have the five or the ten in a different place and you wind up messing up the sequence a little bit because it's not as obvious yeah occasionally I've definitely had a boulder where it was easier to skip the ten hold and you know a lot of people get stuck trying to ten trying to get to ten trying to go to ten and then if you just like kind of think outside the box and like oh I can just go over here instead none of these boulders were like that but if usually you get back for sure with this format here and you know not being able to look at the boulders until you're after all how often do you go back watch the replay that's available to figure out all that's how someone did it so that next time you see a similar problem I didn't do number two and I'm looking back at how everyone else did it it's like Oh like I should have put my foot on that hold you know and that's something that you know you think about and you take it away from the round and try to think about how [Applause] really good way to end the round for him able to figure out how to get in the right body position for that subtle match finish on men's number five we get two and the whole day on the top so that's great for us to Kyra thanks for the time congratulations qualifying the number one position it looks like for tomorrow's clock thank you back in the moment here to Leon the 2019 us a climbing combined invitationals brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 waiting for the immense results to be compiled here while we've got a moment we've got one of our outstanding competitors today one of three who is able to solve all five bouldering problems Colin Duffy's is 15 years old here at this competition you came in today in 10th place how does it feel to go five for five we cracked you the first person to do it it's pretty crazy I do not expect to top all the boulders but just push relaxed had fun and just climbs well you look really relaxed out there and I know this is just your second adult competition and I mean you absolutely crushed it I don't have to feel amazing right feels great do not expect this you're sure in good position now to make it to Sunday what are your thoughts about going in against the very best of the best here and you know continue this journey I think I'm just gonna have fun again be relaxed and just climb like I did today and yesterday and see where that takes me [Applause] fun really set you up to like just let your body know what it knows how to do and I mean you you're a very successful youth competitor so you know how to compete but obviously on a bigger scale it's a little more nerve-wracking but today it was so awesome to see you just let it all go and just do your thing out there yeah just now that I've like deal with a lot of stressful situations and youth just carry that to adults and just climb like I normally do I guess columnist the sports changing now becoming an Olympic sport what are your goals in terms of your future not just for the next year or two but over the course of your climbing career what do you want to achieve I think I just want to steal and fix one day happen I guess that would be great but I just want to keep climbing and doing as well as I can and off disciplines and just see where it takes me I've gotta get to the top you seem to get to the top a lot Colin Duffy 15 years old you're also the smallest competitor you know I'm gonna go out on a limb and say you're gonna grow a little bit here over the next few years how is that gonna change your climbing how does being able to find a path at five feet tall help or hurt you as you try and do it when you get older and you get bigger I think in training I'll just keep adjusting to my height and I know I think I'll just put my I don't know I'll climb just adjust to my height and keep it like I do normally climb I can you well call where we're waiting to get the final standings in here you came in today in 10th at least finished top three I know you made it to the top of all five only three male athletes did it what do you feel your chances are you think you're moving on to Sunday oh no that would be really cool hopefully well we definitely hope to see you there can't wait to see you solve more problems get really high on more roots and speed up the speed wall Colin Duffy let's take a look we got the stands right here and tied for fourth how about Sunday he's not even just like in he is tied for fourth place great standing Colin Duffy thanks for joining us you'll be going Sean Bailey true rowana Nathaniel Coleman Colin Duffy and Zach Allen tie for 4th Josh Levin Kyle I tour in John roster who won speed is able to hang in there so to speak and makes in that eighth and final qualifying position so we've got our qualifiers for tomorrow we look forward to having you there for Meagan Martin and our entire ESPN crew I'm Sam Farber saying it's been a pleasure and a privilege having you with us today here in Lehigh for the 2019 us a climbing combined Invitational qualifiers are in the books lab finals for you tomorrow reminder all competitions hearing on the ESPN family of networks are streaming live and archived on the ESPN app this has been a presentation of ESPN you

Channel: USA Climbing

Views: 31,751

Rating: 4.8174906 out of 5

Keywords: usaclimbing, bouldering, sport climbing, speed climbing, USA Climbing

Id: FBdTxwHjxvw

Length: 116min 15sec (6975 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 27 2019