12 Volt Conversion Ford 9N 2N 8N & Electronic Ignition

hi everyone welcome to my channel what I got here behind me is a 1945 forward 2 n if any of you follow my channel yes this is the exact same tractor that I did the full restoration on mechanically right now I'm going to be getting ready to convert this over to a 12-volt now I know a lot of people are gonna say why no Road are you doing that well first I don't have to the tractor is not wore out it will it will run and start fine in the cold weather I am just really getting frustrated maybe about the last 10 years or so the generators are just not holding up I use these for tractors a lot sometimes 8 to 10 hours a day a hard mowing they're only lasting about a year - it becomes very frustrating expensive to keep fixing I personally think it's the cheap brushes armature that is being produced today years ago never had a problem with them 6 volt I'm a 6 volt guy I have nothing against it most of my show tractors around here are still 6 volt I don't have a problem with them because I'm not racking up the hours on them also once this tractor gets completely restored into a show tractor I have a few little ideas I'm going to do to be a little bit different and I actually need the 12 volt so that is why I'm converting this not only am I converting it to 12 volt I'm going to be installing electronic ignition which I'd highly recommend if you're going the 12-volt route that really eliminates a lot of problems I'll be going as I go through this I'll be discussing a lot of things why I'm doing what I'm doing and some options this by far is the easiest in my opinion on how to do a 12 volt conversion so many times I see these for tractors especially they've got wires hanging everywhere it's like a NIST there's resistors hanging everywhere it is just a mess you'll see here this is a real clean conversion just a literally a few wires we got a one wire alternator here it's self energizing and you'll see just how simple it is if this is something that you would consider doing to your Ford tractor encourage you to keep watching here I'm actually going to be removing the hood you do not need to do this to do a 12-volt conversion there's two reasons why I moved removing the hood and that is because one it's easy for you to see as I do this 12 volt conversion and I'm also going to be replacing the radiator in this tractor it's it's pretty bad I'm not going to go into detail with that I'm gonna try to keep this video strictly about the total conversion but I will maybe show you some pictures up it is a brand new radiator and I it's a spa rex brand I highly recommend them and I'll show you why a little bit later in the video but stay tuned sit back and enjoy the 12-volt conversion okay I got everything cleaned up here there was a lot of dust and dirt up front but you do use this tractor and they do get quite dirty up front there just so it looks a little bit more presentable and you can see a lot better I want to first talk about this generator and I want to talk about why I am switching to 12-volt because this can be sometimes a heated discussion and some of the online discussion groups and everything a lot of people are against 12-volt they want to stick with the original and I just want to talk a little bit about my experiences and why I am changing okay what you're looking at now is the back side of the generator this is a original Ford generator that would be found on this tractor one of the cool things about the four generators I see this little screw right here you can adjust the charging on that for example if you're running in the daytime whether your plow and Ramon or whatever you really don't need a whole lot of current to charge your battery but say at night when you got lights and everything the idea was you just get your little screwdriver turn that up a little bit and you'd be charging a little bit more now one of the things a lot of people think of when they look at their amp gauge and that thing's bouncing clear to the positive you know way like five 10 amps that is not a good thing you will cook these things in a short amount of time believe it or not you basically want it just off just a little bit to the positive side just enough to replace what you're using up but I am a six volt guy I have nothing against six volt systems this tractor will start on the coldest of days I never have a problem however I'd say about the last oh I don't know 10 years or so I've been having a lot of trouble these generators are only lasting about a year two years if I'm lucky starting to get very frustrating and very expensive I personally think that it is just the cheap parts that we get today these Chinese overseas the brushes the armature they're not just holding up I mean years ago my goodness I never had an issue we would go I mean we used these tractors a good bit like this particular tractor we're working on here I cut fields for other people eight to ten hours a day hard driving they're just not holding up anymore I have many show tractors that still have the six volt they're fine because you know you're just putting around it shows or just around home here and join them it's really not that much of an issue but it seems like with the tractors that you use a lot they're just not working out anymore also I had a lot of problems with the cutout relays on these for nine and two N's tractors I'll show you that a little bit later but anyhow I'm going to remove this generator and we're going to start getting set up for the brand new alternator okay the first thing I'm going to do is take this original bracket off I'm going to zoom in here this was what held the top part of the generator and kept the tension it is now going to be replaced with this bracket this came in my 12-volt kid I don't think I mentioned that this is a kit that I'm using I'm not creating this on my own if you're doing this now I have the radiator off cuz I'm gonna replace it even if you're doing this I would highly recommend that you drain your coolant because there's about 50/50 shot when you go to take that head stud or head nut off a lot of times the stud will unscrew out of the block instead of the nut actually turning and when that happens you have a big mess the coolant will shoot and gush out everywhere so it's actually a real good time to change your coolant I always say if you can't remember when you change it it's time to change it there's you know everybody's always worried about freezing which is very very important however just as important the the corrosion control with good coolant really goes a long way to get some of these antique tractors I've tore apart it's just it's terrible I think people just put straight water in them a lot of times they get so crowded up the water jacket is literally just almost completely solid full of rust and junk so always a good good idea to keep care of your coolant and keep it changed frequently [Music] I got lucky on that one the nut is actually coming off that's what you want to have happen but like I said a lot of times this stud will unthread out of the block and you have a little geyser going on I'm going to retorque these nuts down the head the nuts on these heads are anywhere from 50 to 55 foot pounds so I always go ahead and make sure that I read torque it there it is now that I got the brand-new belt on and I got the alternator up in place I'm going to put this last top bracket on and then we'll be able to Snug everything down okay I got everything on adjusted and bolted down just a couple of things I didn't point out I had already painted these brackets the bottom the top and then when it bolts to the head they do come bare I got this kit from just Ayden's now the reason why I get from them I'm not affiliated with them in any way but I like the way their top bracket is it's got a little bit of a curve to it it's nice and curved at the end a lot of the brackets that I see like cheap on eBay and stuff though it'll just be a flat piece of metal it sticks way way out and then they just got some holes in it it looks kind of cheap it looks like something I would fabricate and then to me it seems like the alternator sticks way out too far these kits seem to to bring the alternator in and then once we have the hood back on you'll see what I mean it doesn't stick out any further than what the original generator is one of the reasons for years I just couldn't stand when people put 12 volts especially on these Fords is because I just don't like the looks of an alternator doesn't look time period correct and then also what I did was to try to I painted this black this alternator came in its natural shiny aluminum color I took it all apart took the fan off the pulley and everything I painted that all up and it just really kind of blends in right now you don't have it just so noticeable when you walk up to it and once this tractor is all restored cosmetically and everything's all shiny and new it really isn't that big of a deal to me anymore it's just so nice to not have to mess with some of the junky electrical parts you eliminate a lot of that and I'll talk about that when we go to put the wiring harness on but remember we're also going to be putting the electronic ignition into this distributor so nice anymore again the parts are just junk the condensers just aren't holding up anymore you'll eliminate condenser you'll eliminate the points and it's just a really simple setup so I'm gonna get going here on the wiring harness and I'll explain some things about that okay I have the wiring harness here laying on the ground a lot of people always say well I make my own and I guess there's nothing wrong with that I just went ahead and bought this is the third I think third fourth wiring harness I've bought the reason why I bought it is about time I go buy all the wire and the nice colors and the connectors and the conduit I probably have more money tied up into wires that are just going to lay on the shelf on the spool than what it actually cost to purchase this but this wire harness is actually made for the nine and two and and a 10 on the a 10 you would need this white wire and this white wire right here especially would would be going on to the solenoid on the starter the nine tens and two ones are a little bit different they do not need that so when I put this on I'm just going to cut the white wire off there's no real need for it but I'm going to show you something some positive things about the 12-volt system here just a little bit okay on the night ends and two ends you will have originally a cutout relay and it would be mounted right here the original one for this tractor was on here for probably 50 some years it even had Ford still scripted in it it finally bit the dust can't complain to me lasted it's a long long time and then what you get now is these cheap things well we have three Ford's that we use on a regular basis so I have plenty of these things laying around and when you take that cap off all it is is just a little set of points when the tractor starts and the generator R starts functioning these points will close and that will eventually then charge your battery that's the up there now the only thing is most of these I've bought three in one day at three different locations and I pop the cap off and these points will be stuck from the factory and even if they're not stuck through time when you go to shut your tractor off they have a habit of staying stuck when the tractor shuts off it must open if it does not open the generator well now it's an alternator but the generator will actually turn into an electric motor it will take power from the battery to the generator and it will start to turn off you don't have a belt hooked up to it you would never know that it's trying to turn but it will sit there and spin like electric motor what happens is it can't turn you don't realize that it's struggling and you walk away from the tractor then you come back a little bit later and your battery is dead so if you have a problem with your battery always being dead one it might not be charging but two if you have one of these doodads that's probably the biggest culprit right there now they have come out with electrode diodes okay now this one I made I got I think I went to RadioShack and got here's the diode right here at the end of my thumb and you have to solder this here and everything I never had any luck with that either now they make brand new ones I think they're about 60 70 bucks they have a diode in them I have never tried one I just didn't feel like spending 60 70 dollars and be disappointed but the good thing is now there's no need for that there will simply be nothing there anymore now you a ton guys you will have a regulator up here on your Aidan if you're doing a 12 or 12 volt conversion on an a-10 you will not need that regulator you can either just leave it there or you could take it off it's not going to be functional anymore because your regulator is now into the alternator and this is a self energizing one wire I know a lot of people have what are they three wire alternators I personally just don't think it's necessary this will kick in about so around six to eight hundred rpm the tractor idles around four to five hundred rpm so basically once you start a little fast idle its gonna kick in you'll see it on your gauge that it is working so what put on this track your little fun thing that I did when I got disgusted with these cutout relays I actually just wired a toggle switch up here when the tractor would start I would flip it on basically I was just manually being a cutout relay now the only thing is when you shut the tractor off you have to make sure that you turn it off if not your battery would be draining because the generator would be turning into an electric motor again it's kind of a kind of a pain in the butt when you're turning it on and off and jumping on off the tractor working but I got used to it but now there will be no need for that we no need for a cutout that alternator is going to take care of everything [Music] I went ahead and attach the wiring harness this particular tractor has the tube that the spark plug wires go into it's actually kind of rare anymore most people would have tossed this away because it is a pain to get all those wires through there a lot of times you'll see them they'll be cut right about here people will have the wires go up through and then it'll be all exposed out in the open but I don't want to get rid of that I like that having that way for just to be original but what I did was I just zip tied the wiring harness underneath there looks pretty clean you don't really even know that it's there and I went ahead and put a brand new amp gauge this is a new style see the two studs there at the wire red wires are connected to the old original style gauge if you have one looks like this it has that little metal loop where the wire will go through and believe it or not that picks up and it will read what your generator is putting out but with this new system you're gonna have to have to update it gage that little block right there with the three studs coming out of it is called the ballast resistor now there are resistors and then there's ballast resistors that is a ballast resistor the difference between the two is that the ballast resistor it creates more resistance as current goes through it so basically when you start the tractor and it's cold you will have not much resistance at all as the ignition is on and the heat or the current goes through it it will get hotter and it will produce more of a resistance believe it or not that helps in the starting of the tractor will actually put more voltage to the distributor and the help to start the engine and then like I said once it starts running it will get warm and then it will create more of a resistance the reason is that will protect your your points and everything won't burn them up I'm going to use that that's the original one believe it or not and I'm going to reuse it because it's working fine I'm going to talk a little bit about resistors here when I bring you up to the front you know we've talked about this front mount distributor I'll take you up top here this is the new battery 12-volt battery I went ahead and made brand-new cables and connectors and everything and I just went and holding the battery down this is just the flat piece of metal I round it off and it really holds it good I didn't show this me doing this because everybody probably has their own idea of how to do it but this works really good for me I've done it a few other times on some other tractors so right now we are ready to test to make sure that the power is getting to not only the distributor but out to the spark plugs all right we're up at the front of the distributor now and I just wanted to touch base on these resistors and everything you may have heard about this is a brand new ballast resistor that I just showed you on the back of the dash there like I said I'm going to use the old one it's working fine but this gives you a little bit better idea what they look like this part here that little curlicue the wire that gets very hot believe it or not so if you're mowing or you know got a lot of weeds or dirt up there it will smoke so and it's always a good idea to kind of keep that clean around there but a lot of people when they're doing a 12-volt conversion they will keep the six volt coil I personally like to switch it to a twelve and the reason is if you have the six volt coil you will have to have a inline resistor they're made out of ceramic they're white unfortunately I don't have them here to show you but they're pretty common you would have to put that in this wire or in this line that it's somewhere up in where I showed you it in the wiring harness it makes it hard with a wiring harness to be all you'd have to cut it open and put it in there but like I said when you switch to a 12 volt coil you do not need that inline resistor if you go with the 12 volt so with the resistance that this creates and the resistance of the 12 volt coil you have enough resistance that your your points will not fry okay so and a lot of people don't want to spend the money on a 12 volt coil because they are a little bit more but I just don't like having that extra resistor in there there's really not really not solving anything by having that in my opinion one of the things I wanted to show here it's a lot of people think that these distributors can be put on two different ways that is false it will only go on one way and I'll show you why probably going to be really hard to see on camera here but these these two prongs here I don't know if you can see it is not centered in the very center of the distributor shaft and if you would look down in here the cam right here there's a slot for those two things fit in that is that slot is actually off-center too so this will only go on one way which is very helpful it would almost be impossible to have it 180 degrees out if you would force it in you'd probably be starting to break stuff you would know that something is definitely wrong also if you were 180 degrees out of time you would almost have to just switch your wires around which is kind of hard to do especially as you can see here these wires have been on here a while they pretty much formed themselves so I always see on the internet discussion groups and such everybody always says oh it's 180 degrees out of time well I don't wanna say it's impossible but you would have to have your wire switch because this will only fit on one way I heard of one time some guy had so much play in there that he was able to do it but I don't understand why there would be that much play and one of those something would have been drastically wrong but we're going to take this up to the bench and I'm going to show you how to put the electronic ignition in all right now the distributor is up on the bench here and get a little bit of a understanding what's going on here with this electronic ignition first thing you want to do be pull to your rotor cap off and then there is this giant ring that sits down into a groove you'll see in the housing here I went ahead and take that out I just got needlenose pliers that pops right out you also want to take there's a screw on this side for your static timing take that out and then you want to disconnect your condenser wire from the points on the top a little bolt there and then it should be able to come right out here might have to help it a little bit there we go and believe it or not this whole plate now if you're going with the electronic ignition you can just set it aside you will not need it ever again one of the things that I why I'm deciding to go with the electronic ignition I have a few other tractors with it on and I just I love it I really can't complain about them at all the frustration with the quality of points these days the condensers here are just junk they're not lasting long at all anymore I know a lot of guys will say you need Bluestreak points last time I went to a nap on a spur Bluestreak points they gave me some other brand I can't think of the name offhand but I don't think they're even making them anymore I'm even having a hard time setting the gap for some reason I've been doing this for years never had a problem but with these new points they're just junk one thing about the electronic ignition you won't have points you won't have a condenser you don't ever have to adjust anything once you put it in you will hear sometimes negativity about the electronic ignition and I have the Box here I'll show you this is what I'm using Petron --ax this is made specifically for the ford n series front mount distributor that is not the picture but I'll show you that in a little bit you'll hear people complain about them saying that you know I put them in in their junk I only lasted an hour I've seen so many bad wiring on some of these tractors and it's literally just a rat's nest I don't understand why there's just so much wires hanging around so much resistors and everything and I just wonder if that is the problem why their new ignition system I don't know that's just a theory that I have there are so many of these being used not only in tractors but in the antique car world as well I mean just racking up a lot of miles there was a lot of happy customers I'm sure there's some not so happy customers but it is what it is I mean I'm not saying that they'll never go bad it's man-made it can definitely go bad but if I had a problem with one of mine tomorrow I would definitely go ahead and order another one I know one tractor I got right now I think I put it back in 2004 i think yeah 2004 and i never had a problem with it another good thing is the points if you keep your tractor outside or maybe not in a garage where you have a little bit more of a controlled environment you no longer have to worry about corroded points you don't have to run a file or anything through there to shine them up you can basically soak these things in water now they shouldn't really ever skip a beat it definitely aids in better starting a lot of claims that they make horsepower I disagree with that it could if you had such a bad gap or something to begin with but as far as gaining anything no I mean if you had a good distributor and working order and you went ahead and say even if you ran it on a dyno and then you put the electronic ignition and there's really got to be any difference spark a spark that's that's the only thing I guess they use that as a advertising gimmick but I'm going to go ahead and clean this up real good and I'll get started on the installation of the electronic ignition really simple you'll be amazed how easy it is okay now with the distributor shaft out of the housing here there is a bushing in here it's a good time to check to make sure that isn't too worn just simply by putting in it in there I mean you want a little bit of play or it won't be able to turn but this one's in really good shape so I won't have to replace that I went ahead and put a little bit of a thin film of grease in there after I cleaned this all out with brake clean just a couple things to note there is holes here for that bushing and the shaft you will even see the line cut in that shaft that's to kind of draw and disperse the engine oil you get oil from the camshaft it does fling on here now the new breaker plate there won't be any points on it but it also has a bushing up here where the shaft will fit up through you'll want to put some grease on there because that will not get lubricated from the engine you'll never want oil inside of here but like I said this is the old one the old plate you won't need that ever again here is the this black piece is going to go over the cam lobes once I set that down in the distributor I'm going to put that over there this has got magnets in it and what that does is it's got little breaks in it and when it was rotating that that piece will be on the inside here it's kind of hard to to show once it's in there so I'm showing you now it's rotating around in this little chip here well since the break in the Magnus and that's when it will spark so I'm going to go ahead and start assembling this now like I said before there's really no way you can mess up the timing so go ahead and just put that shaft in there you'll want to put this on first I'm sure that it's set down in there the whole way then with your new breaker plate then you want the plastic piece facing up just like that everything's fitting really good so far your little sensor here is gonna go on these two studs I got little nuts here too fasten it down and then you set this little black wire this is going to go up top that's where your points and your condenser were originally that's going to fasten down this red wire this is going to attach to your coil wire and your wiring harness all right I'm gonna have to cut it down or so they give you too much which is good but you'll notice here on the side of this distributor it's got like a little event I only have to pull that out they just pressed in it's not real hard let's get some pliers and pull that out not all four distributors have that we got a 46 Ford 2n that I did it did not have that so I actually had to drill a hole so I could get that wire up through this is actually going to go up to the top of the coil and I'll show you a little bit when it's on the tractor again but like I said if you don't have that you're gonna have to drill a hole we have 48 a tin as well it did have a cap but not all of them do that so I'm gonna go ahead and get all this secured and I'll show you what it looks like after everything's together I have most of the majority of it here together I just wanted to show you one more thing before I put this snap ringing as you can see I fished that red wire I pulled a little vent cap off fish that through there the black wire goes up on top here with a new breath both that is what your little pigtail on the coil touches I went ahead and put the nuts to fasten the sensor down there is a I showed a showed it to you before I put it in there but there's like a small carriage bolt but it's like half missing so if it fits in there flat I would go up above the plate there anyhow it sticks out through the side here and when you go ahead and you put this in there you want to make sure that is lined up right and dead center at the timing marks there you can see that little red dot and you went right in there I what I did was I just held the top part with my finger made sure it was nice and flush up against there and just moved it accordingly and I just tighten that down now your plate will not move and this far as time and you won't have to adjust anything you want that in the dead center and now you'll be good to go so I'm just going to go ahead and put this snap ring in there and then we're going to mount it back on the tractor and I'll show you what to do with this wire alright I just put the distributor back on the front here just tighten up this last bolt and we're getting ready to put the cap back on attach the wires and put the new 12 volt coil on all right I'm getting ready to put the new 12 volt coil on just to let you know that there is a gasket that goes between the distributor and the coil also before you put the distributor on there is a gasket between the engine and the distributor as well if you don't have that you're going to have a lot of oil getting slung around there but one thing that I've learned through the years make sure that this little pigtail this little spring here is long enough and then it's making contact in that little top brass bolt it's got like a dish to it a lot of times if it isn't long enough I want to not make contact and you will be wondering why you don't have any spark so just make sure you go ahead and check that and lately they've been pretty good they've been pretty long but there for a while years ago it seems like every one I ever touched was too long and I just have to get the you don't notice pliers and pull on it and hopefully it wouldn't break it but I'm gonna go ahead and put this on unfortunately like I've continually said a lot of the new electric ports just do not fit as well as they should like the old ones the coil that I took off here it was a six volt it was an old one it still had forward on it fit real nice you get the newer stuff it just doesn't work as good but you got to do with what you have I guess but easy as that and then this wire that you have coming out of the distributor I'm just going to cut it to length and it's going to go you have a connector at the top and you're going to put it underneath that nut and then bring the hot wire from the wiring harness and you're also going to connect that to the top so just a note that also you don't want this too long because you can get it caught on the fan and everything so you don't want it real tight but you want it to where there's really not a whole lot of slop so I'm going to go ahead and cut that and I put the connector on it I have here a simple test light if you don't have one of these I highly recommend really easy to diagnose any problems on these old tractors I'm just going to ground it anywhere on the tractor and when you put your test light on the top of the stud here I have somebody else flipping the ignition switch on and notice how it lights up that is how we are able to tell that the wiring is good the ignition switch is working and the power is getting to the coil another must-have tool is one of these spark testers there are several different styles I really like this style because you can adjust the gap in between those two points there and basically on most of these old tractors if you don't have enough power to jump at least a quarter-inch a gap it's probably not going to be working too good for you but I'm going to go ahead and hook this up we're going to see if the coil is functioning and everything all you really need to do is pull one of the plug wires off and clamp that on there bring your plug wire and stick it right up in there I'm going to zoom in real close so you can get a good view of that spark and let me get the camera repositioned there you have it we have a really good hot blue spark you want a blue spark not orange or anything like that I got to put the radiator and everything on this tractor yet but no doubt that this thing will fire right up once we get some fuel to it what you're looking at now is a brand new reproduction radiator I mentioned earlier in this video that one of the reasons why I took the hood off is to replace the original radiator which is right here and I know a lot of people are probably saying well why don't you just have this one repaired well obviously you can tell it's been leaking for a while or way across it needs a new core it's even leaking here in the back it's in pretty bad shape but other than that the tank and everything they're they're really a really good shape the reason why I didn't have repaired we just don't have a whole lot of options as far as repair places there's only like one some semi nearby and the guys just said honest he says if you can buy a new one it will probably be just about the same amount of cost as today for him to fix it so I've dealt with these radiators before so I went ahead and got another one this is a spa Rex brand SP ar e ex this is the kind that will say restoration quality if you're looking at some of the online parts suppliers and one of the reasons why it's restoration quality is there is four rows of cooling tubes in the radiator and these the tubes is with these little tubes you see running down here there's four rows of them all the other reproduction radiators for these tractors only have three and another thing is the the metal the material is that is used as exactly like the original same kind also it is I mean I've measured these before it is exactly the same height exactly the same shape other than just a little bit of a tank difference here the original ones are a little bit more rounder that is the only difference and that does not affect anything also one of the nice things I like about the reproduction ones is right underneath here as the petcock you can't see it to drain it on the original ones they're actually under here on this neck here and really hard to get to kind of a pain so in actuality I kind of like these even better than the original ones again that's par x SP ar e X you can look them up there are about $200 and that's about how much it would cost to fix that I'm definitely going to keep this one and I have a couple other ones if I ever find anybody that can fix it really rather cheap I'll have it done I definitely won't want to throw that away but uh oh one more thing if you are ever thinking about replacing these this is the original shroud if you have a reproduction shroud they will not fit the reproduction radiators there's little holes here that they screw into they will not fit so if you don't have an original shroud or it's damaged and you want to get a new one and you're gonna use that radiator has to be original OEM it will not or that the remix will not fit so that's just one thing to keep in mind oh and another thing I got the new radiator cap here a lot of these caps this is separate by the way it didn't come with the ready a lot of these caps are made poorly and they are not tack welded in the right location and what happens is you tighten it down and it'll be like that this one again spar X brand as you saw there it it fit fit on there real nice I can't do that one-handed but it was it's nice and straight which those little things I got to bug me if it isn't but if you run into a trouble I heard a lot of guys they actually break that off and and tack-weld it where it should be so I'm not gonna spend any more time on this radiator this video is not about radiator so I just wanted to show you what's going on here I'm going to put this on and get this tractor running here real soon you okay as you saw in some of those pick they're got everything back together and you might also notice right now there is a difference and I went ahead and put brand-new reproduction headlights on this tractor I was going to go out and just show you the tractor running and charging but the weather got really really cold and I just didn't feel like starting it up and taking it out but I didn't want to waste any good day so I went ahead and put the lights on I wasn't really going to feature this on the video but I might as well just show it to you I got these from Dennis carpenter these are exact reproduction I'll get a little closer shot here for you now these do come powder-coated this is the Aidan gray color as you can see it's a big difference when I go ahead and paint this tractor all one color naturally I'm going to paint these but these are very detailed they even got the tractor light name on them just like the originals these are 12-volt naturally you still can get them six volt I also had to get the nice little ornamental wings here this tractor never did have headlights from day one so it's kind of nice to have lights on there that work now all three of our Fords have front and rear lights I'll show you the back here here's the tail light this is a license plate bracket I got that as well works real good with a orange triangle if you ever want to go down the road and just drill the holes in the triangle here's the rear work light this has a switch on the bottom that you turn that on and off with I flipped the switch which I actually had to drill right there at the end of my finger this again this tractor never had lights so I had to do everything and when you pull the switch the taillights and the headlights will come on but this is off if the switch is off I got the other one or I also had to get these brackets most of the time you'll just see one taillight on the back and one work light but you could do anything you want we like putting two it looks more like a car kind of balances out the back and it just looks better I think but I also did it with the original style wiring it's kind of like plug and play I call it I can't really see it too good here but it's like at fabric it's really nice came in a wiring harness just did everything real quick it wasn't hard at all a little hard to get a ground sometimes had to shine up some of the holes in the brackets to get a good ground but other than that the installation was pretty simple you

Channel: Jason1Pa

Views: 281,005

Rating: 4.845726 out of 5

Keywords: Ford 9N 2N 8N 12 volt conversion electronic ignition tractor farmall John Deere

Id: ITEJt85T3rk

Length: 48min 33sec (2913 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 21 2018