How to Remove and Rebuild a Ford 8N Hydraulic Pump

all right today we're going to get into some pretty big repairs that we have to do here on the old a10 this is a 1948 but it will apply to all the in series tractors pretty much so we're going to rebuild a hydraulic pump and we're going to take care of these lower leaky lift pins the lift pins on these lower stabilizing arms they they bolt through with the axle housing right there and there's a nut on the back of them you can't tighten them just by putting a wrench on the outside you have to get a wrench on the back so they're they're loose right now and they're leaking out all our hydraulic fluid that is not a very serious repair when you hear about it but in reality it is because you have to take off these axle housings you have to take off the axle the seal pretty much the whole track tries to come apart so for such a silly little thing it turns out to be a really big repair yeah so we're gonna rebuild the hydraulic pump and those leaky lift pins so anybody who's about to watch this video this could bring a lot of value to anyone who's thinking about doing your brakes on your tractor and your outer axle seals those are common things that you always have to do on these a tin so we're gonna go through those steps as well because we have to take all that apart and put it all back together so we're going to go ahead and get into it so there's five gallons of fluid in them back here the same fluid does the transmission and the hydraulics and it lubes that the rear differential and everything so there's five gallons considerable volume of fluid so we got to get yourself five gallon bucket underneath there to get the five gallons of fluid out we've got a height restriction so we try to get some extra room in here so there are three plugs on the bottom of this that you have to drain out to get all the fluid out and I think two of them does the bulk of it but the one I think actually drains the hydraulic pump and just drains the residual left out of there yeah definitely been in there messing with it before you can see they've got that plug all rounded off from using pipe wrenches on it and stuff and that fluid does look absolutely terrible and the seals busted there but they can probably make a new one out of leather you can see look at that all that stuff just like chunks of stuff in the bottom of that plug that's a terrible sign so we got to make some room to get to some stuff we got to move these like foot boards all the way on both sides because we got to take this plate off right there that cover you got to reach in there and get some things we got to move some stuff and make some room real quick that is the PTO shaft you got to take that out for the pumpkin come down so when I'm doing a big repair like this I like to take all of the bolts that come out of wherever they come out up and just kind of put them back in their place so I don't just put them in like one big tray and mix them all together it makes the job more intimidating but if you just kind of put them back where they go and it's just really easy when you go to reassemble everything there's no questioning its this the long ones this is short wood and a lot of them are the same but they're they're different lengths and if you put the wrong ones in the wrong hole or go through and hit something that's moving on the inside and mess up the project so it just makes our job a lot less intimidating if you just kind of keep them where they go all right so this is the fluid that came out of there get a shot down in there and you can see that looks terrible that's awful looking and there's chunks and stuff in the bottom and you can see it's about a gallon and a half or two gallons low so that's really bad we move like the foot boards off on both sides and we got these access covers off all the fluids drained out we took the PTO shaft out you have to take the PTO shaft to get the pump to drop out so not only got access to everything we can see what's going on I think we're ready to loosen up the pump and actually drop the pump out so we're going to start on that all right so we got the hydraulic pump unbolted and when we went to drop it down it was not going to come out so this is actually crucial so whoever is going to try to do this this is seriously helpful this is your power take-off like engaging lever right here temporarily bolt that back on and that will engage your power take-off or disengage and you have to go manipulate that back and forth in order to get the pump to turn loose and come out so if you don't temporarily put that back on and adjust it and kind of kind of finesse it to encourage the pump to turn loose and come out you won't be able to get it out so you have to kind of put that back on and wiggle it to get the pump to drop we got it off and it's in here on the bench and you can see it's pretty gnarly looking here we've got a bunch of that in there a whole bunch of this look at that so yeah that's definitely a problem well we're going to take it apart and clean it up and we got our rebuild kit here so we're gonna start at it you're disassembling or assembling all the nuts are going to be like really seized up when you go to back it off and so to sit there and just put like that even compound pressure on it is pointless if you have like a ball peen hammer with you you can just you can break everything down so reliably like that same principle as an impact wrench this works [Music] we're gonna clean these old gaskets off of here really stuck on but it's very important to clean these suckers up really smooth without scratching them you can't scratch them that's going to damage and cause it to leak let's see alright you got to take the time to get all the surfaces cleaned both sides of every surface get it really really really cleaned without damaging it and digging holes and scratching it takes a good bit of doing but it's really really important to take your time and get it done right we're doing the last little bit of cleanup right here and then we're going to start putting everything back together [Music] all these bolts down good and tight make sure you sleep tight on that gasket [Music] friction this little keepers that hold those down in there I gotta clean that up you can see how gnarly that still is I forgot to clean these but I'll clean these right up real quick we gotta prep the surface down here also kinda hard to reach no we gotta get it nice and cleaned up we don't want to have any leaks after we go through all this earlier I said there were three pins or three plugs that drain out that's incorrect there's four of them there's like the two big ones that take the bulk of it out and then there's a smaller one on the side of the pump and the one that's on the pump kind of takes everything out of the pump then there's this third one right here or the fourth one that's right here on the differential and there's a considerable amount of fluid that still comes out of that ones that's really important so there's four plugs you got a drain here because I don't want to take a chance on any leaking but you have to be real careful about putting too much of this on you gotta put just a really really small amount otherwise it'll come out on the inside and get on the inside of your everything and mess a lot of stuff up so you just want to put a very small amount on of course you got to put it on both top and bottom of the gasket [Music] so it's really easy to get your gasket misaligned and damage it by forcing the bolts in so don't do that try to take painstaking effort to to prevent that from happening you can stick a screwdriver up there you can kind of see and you can play it back and forth and wiggle it until you get it properly in line so you don't damage it good to stand up them up all the way around before you actually start to torque them down too it works better that way otherwise you pull the wrinkle in the bottom of the thing right here that won't seal up right when you're putting these covers back on these are just made of thin mild steel and so they're really thin so you don't want to over torque these bolts because you'll end up like rippling it in between and long-term taking off and putting back on and over tightening and damage that plate and it won't work no more so you just got to make sure to put your gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket and then barely snug them down and just rely on that otherwise you end up damaging it by tightening it up too tight all right so we're gonna put some of these plugs back in and this this one here is the only one out of all of them that you need to put teflon on because these are tapered threads which means the the front diameter is smaller than the back so it's tapered as it goes up in there that's how it gets it seal so you have to type tough line these these other bigger plugs you don't teflon and I see on YouTube guys tough line these but you don't teflon these because that's not where the seal is formed the seal is formed right here these are not tapered threads which means that diameter is the same as that so these are not tapered so you do not get your seal there you get your seal right here and you can see this seal is damaged but that's where the seal comes from from the pressure pressing down on there and that's that creates the seal that seal is damaged so we're gonna make a new leather seal for that and you tighten that down and it seals against this so you don't need a teflon knees so this is the plug that comes out of the actual hydraulic pump itself and you can see that has a copper washer now that copper washer is softer so it compresses that's what makes the seal again that's not a tapered thread same diameter here as it is here so how you gain your seal is it presses up against that that copper right there that softer material and that's what makes your seal so you don't have to tap on this one either you only have to tell on the one the very furthest back one all right so we're gonna make some leather seals for these two plugs these drain plugs two inches we're going to trustee leatherworking kit right here it's always good to have one of them where we got our new seals made here out of the leather you can use up obviously you could use like that you know sheets of gasket material to would work well we just we just don't have any of that so we use the leather instead now you don't have to over tighten them because the seal should do the work when I took the seals these plugs off of here they were way too tight and the one was all stripped out from somebody using a pipe wrench on it because instead of making new seals they used the old seal that was broken and they thought they could overcome that just by putting an excessive amount of torque on it so don't over tighten them alright so when we started this project this morning I had unrealistic hopes that we were going to be able to tighten up these lift pins through the access from the hydraulic pump coming out there's no way there's like a big bulkhead and there's no way you can get through it and so there's also talk on the internet that you can reach through the PTO shaft right here and tighten them and just to clarify that that is completely unrealistic your hand can fit through here that's not the problem your hand can go through there and you can access this but there's a huge ring gear in the way and there's no way you can access the other side so that pretty much wraps that up completely unrealistic the only way to get to those lift pins is to take the wheels off in the axles and the whole axle housings on both sides so that is a huge job just it's a big job so we're gonna go ahead and tear into that these toys here are not liquid-filled there's only air in them so they're not very heavy so be careful if you go to take your tractor tire off make sure you know if there's liquid in it or not because if it has liquid it'll flatten you out if you're not ready for it can be really heavy and dangerous when I'm back all this 3-point hit stuff to get access to these axle housings I broke this nut loose while the tire was still on the ground there's not supposed to be just super attention on these anyways you can see that we've got all this oil here is uh from a leaky axle seal so we're gonna take care of that too while we're into this these hubs really can get stuck on here a lot of times you'll need heat to get that hub off of there it's on a spline right here on this on this axle and man they can really get stuck that was not stuck at all but that's where the seal rides and it's not sealing right but it's complicated matter well we'll talk about that a little bit these like bread shoe springs are so tight it takes a lot of doing to get off of here just be ready it actually went pretty easy you can see I got all this oil all over the brake pads that's not good trusty ball peen for braking very important when you take this off right here you have to take a picture or whatever it takes to remember this to see these shims right here are what set the preload on your bearing so if there's three behind it when you put that back on put the three behind it but not all of them are the same because depending on the wear of the bearing some will just have two shims or some will have four but this one right here has three so make sure you get those three shims right there in that same spot or four or two whatever yours has just remember to put them back but I think there's going to be another shim there is see if back here is the other shim so that shim can go on either side it just depends on the preload of your bearing it's important to understand this when you take it off so when you take it off take some pictures or whatever you got to do to remind yourself of how to put it back [Music] so that's what we're trying to do is get a wrench on that right there so we can tighten up that pin it's loose and it just leaks fluid so it's kind of silly that's such a simple thing you have to take so much apart for all right so what we have here that's what we got into see now you can see that pin it's a tapered pin that's how they obtain the seal so the tighter you pull it the more it pulls in there and it seals up so this is a controversial area right here I'm gonna put some Permatex on it that doesn't mean you have to put Permatex on it but I think it's better if you do I'm just going to put a little bit on there I'll just feel better about it then I'm going to Snug it down really tight so you do this is the only opportunity you're going to get to torque this nut and to pull it inside of here and that's it once you put it back together there's nothing you can do so I'm gonna put the Permatex on it then I'm going to torque it down really tight [Music] [Music] all right we got our axle housing back on everything sealed up good now we got to put the axle back in so before you put it in obviously you want to make sure there's no one chips dirt stuck help the situation out any make sure it's good and clean all right so now we're getting ready to reassemble this like this whole hub thing here and this is this is a not that complicated but very specific way that you have to put this on so earlier in the video you'll remember when I talked when we were taking it off I was talking about these shims these shims like they have to go where they came off because this is what determines the preload on this bearing right here and so when you take it apart kind of take it apart how it comes apart and clean up your shims and then stack them all back how they came off and this this is very important it sets the preload on this on this bearing so when you put it back together it's really important that you put it back together the same that it came off alright so when you put everything back on here in order this is a controversial topic now some people could disagree with this but most would not disagree and so you have to put sealer in on both sides of these shims and put them back on where the controversy starts is if you put too much it can squirt it out and they can get on your bearing and it can get all up in your fluid that goes to your hydraulic pump and it clogs up everything so that's really important to not put too much of this gasket sealer on there but if you don't put any gasket sealer on there these shims won't hold tight enough to keep all of the difference when the hydraulic fluid in the rear end so it leaks out behind it and it leaks out and it gets in your your brake shoes and it messes up your brakes and often times you will think that you have a bad rear axle seal when you don't have a bad rear axle seal you just didn't put all these shims together right and they're leaking so you have to put the sealer on both sides of the shims every shim every opportunity as it goes back together or it will leak it doesn't take very much just a little s bit notice I'm going around the outside of the holes that's going to ensure to keep any sort of expansion or push out happening towards the outside all right so when you re stack all your shims back on this hub here make sure that you have them put back in the right order with your sealing in between it and when you place this guard back on it you can see this hub is not symmetrical it has this piece that comes off here this has to do with your brake linkage and everything and this guard also is not symmetrical that's your hole that you adjust the the brake shoes with the screwdriver so that goes on the back and this hole here is where your brake linkage goes through so make sure to put that on the front the same side that that comes off of because if you don't then you have to kind of take it apart and redo it and work backwards for a little bit that's kind of lame so make sure to build this that specific way to leave room for that screwdriver to catch your brake adjustment and for this linkage to tie into this spot right all right we're gonna put this assembly back on we just got to make sure to get our brake linkage and everything lined up as it goes so it takes a little bit of encouragement to get this brake to go through exactly right twist it way down out of alignment here then bring it back up make sure none of your ceiling gets damaged and make sure your brakes in there right all right I think we're good again when you tighten it up make sure just to kind of barely Snug them all don't just start tightening the first one down so when you go to put your brake shoes back on you can see this side is pretty much smooth across there and this has that gusset on it that gusset right there needs to go towards the inside of the tractor so the smooth needs to go out so Lambos up on your bench there and make sure that gussets on the inside and then put one of your springs that go now this is your adjustment right there that you stick your screwdriver through that hole to adjust that cog wheel so make sure it's not upside down you won't be able to reach it later once you get it all reassembled make sure to put that facing downward so you can reach your screwdriver through that hole to give it your final adjustment now this thing before you go to put this back on take it in the shop wire wheel it up and clean it up and put your little bit of grease down in there not too much so it comes out you don't want to get on the pads but just enough to where it operates smoothly this one here I've already cleaned up you know not too long ago I've just done this and so this one's working good but yeah make sure to take your as a part and kind of rebuild that set it in a little smaller so it gives you an advantage to put the drum back on lock those into the open position and then and then it just taps right in but before you put this back on make sure to put your little spring catches back on here it's a lot easier to reach them right here than it is once you get everything put back on and then you can just kind of spring it open and maneuver it right into position here a lot easier yeah that's it there's a lot easier to do here than it is to do there yeah now putting these Springs on is pretty challenging these are really really tough Springs so you kind of just got to get creative with it and hope for the best realistically and that went on very easily they normally don't go on that easy so make sure everything is good before you put the second one on there we go that's how they go on but be careful because you can kind of hurt yourself jab yourself with a screwdriver or something that's kind of frustrating to get those on that's not a good example they normally take a little more finesse than that now we're good we're ready to put the the hub back on here and and and seal it up all right so this is another controversial area now that's obviously the splines from the axle and this right here is the actual axle seal that's what seals the the fluid from pouring out so a lot of situations you wouldn't put sealant on that spline but this one you do put sealant on the spline so you have to see all that spline and if you don't the fluid will seal on the seal but it will leak through here and come on the outside the hub and drain down your rim or go back in and mess up your brake shoes so it's very important to put your sealant around that spline you have to seal that spline and if you don't it will leak you can be a little more generous on the spline here because it has about three inches of contact so it's going to spread it over a larger area but you kind of want to put it towards the outside to start with as much advantage as you can to keep it from getting on the inside and as you push it back it seats over the whole thing and makes a a better seal because it coats over everything so this is our hub right here make sure it's good and cleaned up make sure everything's good and cleaned up that way once you get it back together you can see if you are successful if there's a bunch of drips and oil you leave there you can't tell if you actually solve the problem the leaky axle seal problem so make sure to get it good and clean and that's really important all right so we've got we've got our sealant in place and this is our hub so we're gonna just slide that back on and it gets a little snug right there where it goes through the through the seal so I feel pretty good about that and this is the outer washer but before we put this on we're gonna put some sealant around there to seal that washer on there too otherwise it'll leak you have to take a lot of caution there to every opportunity to put sealant on there otherwise it'll leak on you I know this looks silly but you've got to be generous with it right here or it will leak and there's no way this is going to work itself back to the inside this is never going to get back in in the fluid it's not going to it can't so you can see we were pretty generous with it right there we put her outer washer on and and that's it No I should have cleaned this up first but now we're gonna torque this nut on and when you torque this nut down this nut does not set the preload on your your bearing preload was set by those shims so when you when you tuck this down you don't worry about the preload on your bearing because it doesn't affect it just torque it down pretty good and I don't know the exact specs I'm sure you can look them up but you want to Snug that down pretty good so that slot right there in your axle is what catches this clip right here there's holes on the flat spot of that nut and you have to rotate it until you find one that's going to work and once you get one that's going to work use that one don't force it past it because you'll have to return back and so you have to line up the hole with that before you put this clip on because that clip has to go through there and lock it and that's when it's what prevents that from vibrating off during the operation of the tractor that's all put back on good we break cleaner the the shoes real good and we washed out this with brake cleaner real good now we're gonna put back on the drum here not no magic to this pretty much self-explanatory there are a couple screw holes on there that you want to line up it doesn't really matter because we don't have the screws for those anymore they get going since been going up anyway and you can see here where we had leaky seal issues so make sure to clean all this up before you put it back on that way you'll better tell if you actually solve the problem because if you already have leaks you can't tell really if you still have leaks because they're already there so make sure to clean up the rim good before you put it back on you got to be careful when you're putting the tractor tire on because if it has wheel weights on it or if it's filled with liquid it can be really really heavy and you can get hurt so make sure like I said earlier in the video make sure to know before you go taking one off and just manhandling know what if there's air or liquid in it cuz it can knock you down and hurt you so we got our all put back together here I had to go through all that just for that silly little repair which was actually a major problem but we got it nice and tight now and anything this whole video would also be useful to somebody who is trying to do brakes or do a an axle seal that's still be useful but so yeah so we're done with this and we're not gonna film the other side over here because it's pretty much the same thing as this side so the same principle applies you'll figure that out alright so earlier we were talking about the adjustment screw on the for the for the brake shoes now on that video is talking about putting that the cog wheel on the bottom which was correct for this side of the tractor but for the other side of the tractor it goes on the top because they only make one of those screws and then they only make one of these these housings here - they don't make a left or a right so on the left-hand side of the tractor that screw goes upside down and on the right-hand side it goes right side up so that's kind of important so don't just use the universal rule of putting it down that won't work it's better just to notice that this hole is off-center and so on this side it's higher on that side it's lower so when you put that screw on there make sure that's lining up the COG is lining up with that hole because there's not a left or right there's only one side alright so we got this side of the tractor all put back together and now it's time to adjust the brakes so how you properly adjust the brakes as you reach through this hole right in with your flat-head screwdriver when you hit that COG wheel we talked about earlier the one to make sure to put in that right that we're talking about and you expand it all the way open until the wheel doesn't want to turn anymore you can feel it dragging real hard and then you back it off until you get the wheel turning pretty good and once you get that turning then you come around here and you feel where where your brake pedal position is and then you adjust the other one to try to match you want to both to match so whenever you're working the landing you're pulling a log or whatever you're doing you can feather them with one foot on it this way or that way to get them to get them to control the tractor and steer it right so you want your big photos to kind of match and so most of you probably already know but some don't and this could be a little bit of a confusing set back and be a little frustrating so with that adjustment screw they only make one of them they don't make a left and a right so on one side tightening will be pushing backwards and the other side tightening will be pushing forward so you can't just universally say all this sides tightening I pushed back come over here tighten push back because one side will be tightening any other side will be loosening because there's only one set screw there's not a left or right so just I know that sounds like a silly thing but it can be a little bit frustrating so find out what it is or whatever that works and once I do the opposite on the other and we're gonna put the PTO shaft back in and we got our gasket in place the gasket on here is you're not very tight fit so there's a lot of movement so to prevent from ripping it putting the bolts in afterwards if you just put the bolts in first that really locates the gasket and makes it a lot you know less problematic I should put it in we put some sealant on both sides of the gasket just the smallest amount just enough to really get to stick all right we got our brakes adjusted everything's looking good time to put our three-point hitch stuff all back together and throw the fenders on and put some put the fluid back in it and see if it leaks all right we got everything put back together all our plugs in PTO shaft everything's ready to go so we're gonna fill it up with fluid right now it's not the best funnel for the job but it's the only funnel we've got all right we got it all topped off so we're gonna fire it up and let it kind of cycle for a minute fill up the pump and everything and then we're gonna try the hydraulics to see if what we did actually work alright we got it all back together and everything seems to be in working order goes up and down real fast and real reliable so yeah I hope that video brought some value and thanks for watching

Channel: Carving A Path

Views: 72,826

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Id: PdB9YYlDX5k

Length: 48min 48sec (2928 seconds)

Published: Sun May 10 2020