Ford Tractor Engine Refresh: Valves, Head Gasket and Rings for Jubilee, 600, 800, 900, 2000, 4000

welcome to my shop my name is rachel gingel in front of me is a 4800 that does not run well it does run but when it does it leaks coolant by the head it has oil around the exhaust here and it just smokes like crazy so i'm going to put a new head gasket in do a new valve train and also put new rings on the pistons if anything else needs to be replaced we discover along the way of course we'll replace that as well but that's our goal to start with so if you want to do those techniques on your own tractor go ahead and follow along my dad is going to help me today and he is beneath the tractor draining the engine oil right now and next he will drain the coolant now when we drain that oil we want to know if there's coolant in the oil if we found coolant in the oil that would be an indication to us that the head gasket is blown and there could also be a cracked head and then when we drain the coolant if we see oil in there that could also be indication that this tractor has a cracked head from what i see coming out it doesn't really give me those indications however i still think this tractor has a head gasket problem because when it runs it leaks coolant between the block and the head so something is majorly going wrong there i'm taking off the valve cover here these are just two little acorn nuts on the top and then that should be loose we'll see if not i'll use a little rubber hammer to tap that off yeah you want to grab a rubber hammer so i can tap that off once i get that off i will then work on the exhaust you can see that i already have the hood off of the tractor and i also have the battery disconnected um just to save a little bit of time there you go that loosened it perfect so that exposes our valve train there let's see if i can get that off there we go just going to set this aside so this is a 172 motor these techniques also apply to a 134 motor those engines are found in ford 500 600 700 800 and 900 tractors as well as early 2000 and 4000 tractors that have the four cylinder gas engine on them i have one more bolt here for my exhaust you can see that all oily there with that elbow released i think this exhaust will pull off and try to help me hold it jump my bad off i got the elbow off and that'll just rest there [Music] good now we are going to take off the manifold with the carburetor intact there's no reason to separate those two pieces and then these four bolts along the top of the rockers can be removed be careful with this tube just gently try to pull that off you don't want to damage your tube you can move it out of the way the rockers will come off my timing on this tractor was good so i'm going to put numbers on my wires and take those off next i'm going to remove the tube this is the tube that supplies the oil to the rocker so it has a little seal grommet on the bottom that you really got to wiggle to get loose and get off i'm taking off all of the head bolts i've got most of them loose here all around the perimeter when i pulled this one off can you see how nasty that is definitely think there's a problem there we're looking for something on this engine and we might just maybe the rest of them look fine it's just that one that was in the center look at that when we get the head off last thing before you pick this head off and drop them on the floor there's little rotor caps on the exhaust little caps like that you need to save them caps they do not come in the new velcroing kit with our thermostat probe removed and the radiator freed up and also my alternator bracket off we are ready to lift this head off and do some inspection oh i'm caught on the radiator there we go okay let's just see if we can rest it there and take a look here there there's our blown head gasket right there between the two cylinders wow wow which is where that bad bolt was right there yep but the paper tells the story right there it's blown right between there nice picture yep do you see anything wrong with the valve that would that would again no valves are great okay and what's giving us that the way it run it would run on this cylinder you know didn't run on that cylinder so yeah there was our whole problem right there i don't see a cracked piston or crack sleeve leave this angle which is good no everything looks good we just had a blown head gasket okay let's lift this off there we go perfect let's go all the way down there are two nuts that hold the cap on the bottom of the rod we're going to take both of those off and that will allow the holder to come off and inside we see the rod bearing yeah how does it look pretty bad it's pretty wiped out yeah okay definitely see how worn that is yeah so then my dad's gonna use a piece of wood to drive the piston up i'm at the top of the engine you need to go just a little bit more if you can maybe two inches i'm at the top of the engine to pull the piston out of the tap he used wood so that he doesn't do any damage to the piston in case we want to reuse them when i took my rod bearings off of the tractor i saw that they were extremely damaged normally a rod bearing will be damaged like this if it's running with low oil pressure your tractor is running without enough oil or it's running with a dirty oil those things will damage rod bearings and as a result i do not want to put the same size bearings back into my tractor now if my bearings looked to be in good condition and my journal measured okay then i would just pop my bearing off read the back this one says std which stands for standard so i'd put standard back in but i don't want to do that because when i measured my journal i get an average reading of 2.297 on all of the journals in my engine so because standard is 2.298 to 2.299 i would choose to put either ones or two's rod bearings back into this engine you are allowed of 2 000 clearance on your rod bearings so if you measured let me do the math here 2.295 you would still be safe to put 2 000 rod bearings back into your engine bearings are available in ones twos tens 20s 30 40 50. so you can do a lot of variation on your rod bearing size but remember you're only allowed that two thousands variants we have a chart on our website which will help you with the measurement that you get from your caliper so you can match it up to the proper size rod bearings for your tractor that standard measurement is the same for both a 134 and a 172 engine so you have to make take this measurement before you order your rod bearings rod bearings are sold individually so make sure that you add a quantity of four if you want to put four rod bearings back into your tractor quantity one will just help you with one cylinder take that measurement just by dropping the oil pan and then you will be ready to order your rod bearings and put them back into the tractor when you are ready to make this repair you're going to need to order some tractor parts we offer the parts for the repair on my website which is farmtractorrepair.com there are a few things though that have some variations you need to pay attention to so i want to roll through a few of the parts with you the first to my right is the valve train kit when you purchase a kit you get valves springs guides and keepers however all of those parts are also sold individually so if you don't want to do a complete valve train replacement you can purchase these on your own individually as you want them for your tractor rod bearings are sold individually as well they are sold as a set of two so if you want to replace all the rod bearings in your tractor you need to order a quantity of four if you order just a quantity of one you'll just get a set for one rod so make sure that you put quantity four in your cart in contrast to that main bearings are sold as a complete set those are available in different sizes so make sure that you measure as we show you can purchase a new engine oil dipstick if you want to that's a really affordable thing to add on and looks good if your dipstick is damaged at all when if you are going to replace your guides you probably want to add one of these guide removal and installation tools that helps you get them out and get them back in if you discover that any of your push rods are bent then you can replace them we sell them individually so you can replace one or all eight depending on what you need for your engine we offer oil filters either the canister type or the spin on type depends on what you need for your tractor for the oil pan we sell the oil pan gasket independently of the head gasket set and then we also offer this drain plug with the screen on it those are broken so often so that's a really good thing to replace water pumps are available there are different kinds of water pumps so make sure that you really inspect your water pump first before you order a water pump i have made that mistake on my own a few times where i order the wrong water pump to start with so learn from my mistake and inspect yours thoroughly before you order yours we do offer a new manifold a lot of times you take your manifold off and it breaks upon taking it off or you realize how poor of condition it's in so if you want a new manifold you can just order a brand new one in front of me here is the head gasket set as you can see it does come with the head gasket as well as manifold gaskets some other carburetor mounting gaskets and such also this gasket for both the valve cover and the tappet cover and then all of these little seals here are included in the head gasket set as well to my left here is a rebor kit all of these pieces meaning the pistons and the rings would be included in the rebor kit sometimes these engines will come with sleeves or without sleeves i have a reborn kit here that doesn't have sleeves featured but we also offer them with sleeves if that's what you need if you have a sleeved engine then you would probably need a sleeve puller as well if you want to purchase a sleeve puller puck like this one you can you just use your own half inch threaded rod and pull the sleeves out and then you can also use it for installation as well and this is available for either the 134 or the 172 size engine if you do want to just put pistons only onto your tractor we offer the pistons independently of the re-bore kit so you can purchase those either way we also offer the wrist pin bushings so if you discover that yours need to be replaced you can purchase them they are so different from a rebore kit this is its own item not with any of the other kits in addition to the parts that i have in front of me we also sell hydraulic parts and carburetor parts for this tractor if you do not already have a manual and you are going to attempt a repair like this i would definitely suggest having a manual which we sell and then if you need further video instruction to do a complete engine rebuild we have a video for that as well so you can check out all of these items on my website it is farmtractorrepair.com because my pistons fit tightly into the board there's no ridge on the sleeves the sleeves aren't broken my pistons aren't broken i am choosing to reuse my existing pistons i'll just put new rings on and i'll keep my existing sleeves if you have an engine that is not worn like mine then you might want to just refresh the engine and put new pistons on in this video will be sufficient instruction for that however if you find that your engine is more worn when you take it apart and you want to continue on and do a more complete engine rebuild including main bearings the rear main seal and take this engine all the way down to the bare block we have a video that you can purchase that walks you through those steps that won't be covered here if you find that you can reuse your pistons then you will need to measure what type of rings you need to purchase i can see on the top of my piston that it's stamped .020 that tells me that these are 20 over pistons that's slightly uncommon i would imagine that the majority of you won't find 20 over pistons in your tractor but if you do we still sell rings for them and regardless of what size your piston is you'll still measure your rings the same way that i'm going to show you here so you can purchase the right rings for your piston you're going to need a caliper like this one to measure your rings i have one of my rings already off that goes on that top groove when i slide my caliper down i get a measurement of .092 which would be a fractional equivalent of three thirty seconds i have two compression rings on this piston so when i order my piston set i would order a set that has eight three thirty seconds compression rings and then for my oil ring i can measure that one right here in the bore i think i can get a good reading on it and i get point one seven point one eight kind of flashes back and forth but i know that that is the fractional equivalent of a 3 16 oil ring so even though this is a three piece ring set it's still called one we consider it one so my piston ring set would be four 3 16 oil rings and eight three thirty seconds compression rings some of the pistons that you find in these tractors will have a four ring set instead of a three ring set so that's why it's important that you both measure and count up the rings on your piston before you choose the set that you need once you have your new pistons you can do a double check onto the bore i have one of my brand new piston rings that are 20 over piston rings in the bore here and i set it just about half inch down into the bore and then i use a feeler gauge like this the book the original manual recommends 10 to 20 thousandths gap and let's measure this i have a good gap there this is a feeler gauge that is 15 000 so i know that these piston rings are going to be good for this engine that it's not um too worn out to replace the same size rings that i took off it is important that you take the time to do your measurements do your double check in the bore because these rings really make a difference if you skip this step and you order the wrong rings or put the wrong size rings on here then your engine won't run right so take the time to do this measuring step it's important for you to also verify the size of your engine sometimes engines could be swapped i've seen a jubilee that has a 172 engine i've seen 800s they have the 134 engine so if you aren't positive what engine your tractor has just take a quick measurement of the bore you can use your caliper again and you should get a measurement of 3.9 on a 172 engine or a measurement of 3.44 for the 134 engine if you choose to reuse your pistons and it will be important to remove the carbon that is behind the rings carbon builds up and if you don't remove the old carbon when you try to put your new rings on it'll prevent the rings from being able to go in all the way and your pistons won't go into the bore this is a carbon scraping tool that i am using here you can see that once i go around that is all cleaned up there i'm going to do that in all three compartments for my piston i'm also going to clean it with a wire brush and make sure that it's ready before we install the new piston rings if you don't have a carbon scraper like this i have seen people break a ring and use the ring to scrape it out probably doesn't do as good of a job as a tool like this but that would be an option if you're trying to stay on a budget and don't have a specialized tool like this when you purchase your piston rings it's important that you read the instructions that come in the box every set of rings has little variations so you want to make sure that you read them specific to your rings not go solely based off of what i say because you might have a slight difference in your piston this oil compression ring is a three-piece set and i like to put the waffle ring on first and then these thinner rings i have better luck putting the bottom ring on first and then the top and you can see i just start that by hand and slide it all the way down into the groove once it's in there i'm going to separate the gap see how i have my gap lined up together right now i don't want that so i'm going to spin this around just that top one so that the opening is separate they shouldn't be on top of each other once i have that ring on my cast ring is next this one has a small dot and that dot means that it goes to the top that's a piece of instruction that you would want to read on the paper that comes with your piston rings sometimes they'll say the word top or there'll be a dot a bevel lots of variation so this i'm going to be very gentle with as i slide it on you can see i got stuck in the first groove there this is the cast ring that goes right here these piston rings can snap if you spread them too wide and they're sold as a set so if you snap a ring you're really in trouble so be very careful when you put your piston rings on my chrome ring goes on to the top here and this one didn't have a direction to it there wasn't a top or bottom so it didn't matter how i snapped that in and then once again i'll separate those before i place them into the tractor one other thing that you want to pay attention to on your piston is your wrist pin there will always be play in your piston from side to side that's completely normal but if you have play when you move it like this that means that you need new wrist pins that would be an unusual amount of play there will be a tiny bit of give because your piston your rod does move back and forth onto the ring there but it shouldn't be drastic if it is drastic then you need to put new piston pin bushings in here normally that's something that you would take to a machine shop and have done in my experience trying to do them yourself you mushroom them over putting them in and they've got to be reamed out and it's better if somebody that has precision tools like a machine shop does that step for you we do sell the bushings so if you realize that you need them you can buy the bushings from us and then take the bushings with your pistons and rods to the machine shop and they will install them for you i am using a silicone ball hone to break the glaze that is on the sleeve it's important to do that especially since i'm using used sleeves that i want to make sure that my new rings are going to be able to seat on there then we're just using a little bit of cleaner on this rag to make sure that it's thoroughly cleaned when i use this hone it's important that i don't go all the way down and damage the journal i'm only trying to clean up the sleeve not the journal as well however when i use the rag i'll wipe off the journal too because there could be some dust on there we're gonna put new brand new bearings on there we want it to all seat in there nicely so i'm looking down there to see if i see a shine on that sander and i don't see the shine that that glaze breaker really takes the glaze off and that's important that we get that clean i got a new clean rag with some cleaner i'm happy rachel we're ready to put the piston in okay so we have our piston here and our new bearings notice that there is a small lock tab right there that's important that you match it up to the tab that is on the rod we already have the rod bearing on the cap end so this just snaps in there not like that i got it crooked let me try that again oops still crooked let me straighten that out a little bit there we go okay you can see how that's even across there and then we're putting a little bit of motor oil on there you can see it there's the hole that's where we shot the oil into if you want to use a different lubricant of your choice go for it i recommend motor oil but i know there are a lot of different options and opinions on that matter and we're going to put a little bit of oil on the rings before we put the compressor on it just so that they're turned around we got oil in the grooves and when this engine starts it's not dry we want them to have some lube on it again we're just using motor oil like rachel said everybody has their own opinion on this so we i just choose to use motor oil we have for years yep when you drop it in the direction is important this notch goes towards the front of the tractor towards the radiator and then there will be a number on the bottom of your rod that number goes to the camshaft side of the engine and then there's a number on the cap as well make sure that your numbers match up and they both go on to the cam cam shaft side of the engine and also when you put the cap on as a double check it's always lock to lock so the little tab when you put it on i'm always double checking when i'm under that i'm putting cap lock to rod lock now i've got it all squeezed down my notch these pistons are notched a lot of them are to double make sure you get them in the right way now this compressor is an old compressor i like to make sure i got it on all the way i just use my heavy dope dead blow hammer and just drive them right in when that's out there now rachel turned the crank so that it's all the way down so as i drive it down it's hanging i don't want to touch that but i'm going to let rachel drive it the rest of the way down and i'm going to go down and make sure that the bolts do not hit that and also i have the cap again lock is locked in i'm going to squirt a little oil on it and i'm going to spread it on her make sure i got no sand on there right there two bolts you need got our bolts these are torqued at 45 foot pounds of torque yep so we have our torque wrench set at 45 pounds so that if he over tightens it a little bit we would only be at like 47 or 48 pounds don't set your torque wrench at 50 because then if you over tighten a little bit you're over the 50 pound recommendation so ready for me to drive that down i am sounds like i found him out you are there okay so now he's going to tighten those up and that will be all set we did that same procedure on our other three cylinders already so this will finish up the process with cylinder number one the oil pan gasket is sold separately from a head gasket set so if you need a new oil pan gasket which you will if you're doing all these steps make sure that you add that to your cart separately we also offer a new drain that comes with the screen nine times out of ten when i drop a drain plug the screen has been broken off so if you need a new one then you can purchase it and it comes with the gasket on the bottom you can see that there so it'll be rested in once my dad has this sealer on there i'll set the oil pan gasket on we're only going to put sealer on one side so if the pan ever has to be dropped from this tractor in the future it'll come off easier for the gasket so once he has that around there i'll drop this gasket on and then we'll put it under the tractor and tighten it up take rachel here one here in the back i forgot at this point i'm going to disassemble the valve train here so my dad has a valve compressor connected here you can see that it's on top of the cap there i have a little magnet ready because once he compresses that sometimes they get stuck that's why he's pounding it just to kind of loosen it up there you go you got it loose i saw it loosen okay so one keeper came out on its own there that you saw i didn't have to reach it with a magnet and your compressor came off i think you're going to need to release and try again because it's not attached on that side okay so we're going to get the jaw of the compressor a little tighter onto that cap that's a lot better you can see that that keeper down there is loose helps if i use the magnet on there we go so i got both of my keepers out then he's going to release and when he does the cap and the spring come off and then the valve will come out from the back got a little bit of a seal there okay now it should come out there we go and that exposes the guides we have a tool here how do those look and they're all black so when we pull these out we want to see nice silver and these ones are not sealing so this tractor certainly does need a valve job yeah and then he has the valve guide tool here this is something that we spun on a lathe if you want to make one you can totally make one yourself or if you need us to make one for you we can and send it to you along with your valve kit when you purchase that so that tool just slides right into the guide and then you want to use that hammer yeah i should have a little larger one but we'll give this one a try with that you can dry the guide right out it's moving sometimes people will reuse the guides and not put new guys in but as these tractors get older i think it's more important to replace the guides you gotta be getting close there you go okay so there's the guide the tool just pushes it right out yeah and you can also use that same tool to drive your new guides back in at the appropriate time so like i said some people skip they don't take the time to replace the guides but as these tractors get older i think it becomes more important especially if your valve is sloppy inside the guide then you'll want to take yours out and put new ones in and this one is yeah definitely we are going to use the same tool that we use to remove the guides to drive the new guys in we put the guides we put them in the freezer so that they drive in a little bit easier than if they were just at room temperature and we drove them down just until they match here um we matched the distance from an old guide measured that you can kind of eyeball it there and see how far the guide should go in as a double check when you flip it over you can look at how it is inside the bore there once you have those in you could have mushroomed over the guide when you drove it in our valves is that smooth real nice okay so we didn't if you did mushroom it you would measure your new valve with a caliper and then match it up to a drill bit so when i measured mine it was 0.35 so when i just went through my drawer and found a drill bit that's the same size and if i needed to i would drive that through just in case it got mushroomed over and i wouldn't drive the drill bit in it only mushrooms the very end so you just take the little bit of end out in case you smashed a little too hard on it yeah so with that let's flip it up on its side and we'll be ready to put our new valves in there's both intake and exhaust let me turn this so that you can see it well there's a distinct pattern to intake and exhaust which you can match up before you put them in you do need to clean up the seats this is a 46 degree yep the angle is 46 degrees on the cutting tool and then the valves are 45 so we're trying to get a perfect seat on the valves this has got a guide that goes into our guide there so when you purchase this tool it comes with a set and there's different guides so you match it up to the size that you think you're going to need i'm going to turn it down so that you can see it's just a hand tool it just cleans up the seat and it's carbide so it cuts really good you don't have to do a whole bunch i'm just cutting ever so little bit here and again it's carbide so it just rips right through there and look at the shine that it does it does a beautiful shine off you can see that shine on there it's like just bright as can be and that's the seat we're trying to get right there okay so once you do the next one too okay and then this is a hand tool made by new way there are many companies that make tools like this it's called a valve cutting tool that you think it'd be called valve seating tool we also have a more professional grade which is available but it's more expensive we wanted to show this setup so that if you need to purchase this tool you want to do it yourself this would be the tool you'd probably want to buy if you don't want to do this your own you can take it to a machine shop and they will do this step for you i want to make sure that that surface is super clean but once again i'm running over it with a wire brush here just to get it as clean as i can we want the seat to really seat well okay now we have a valve and we're going to take some lapping compound here just put a thin layer around the valve and it's it's like gritty and what we're going to do is just lap this back and forth to make sure that we've got a perfect this this tool kind of has a suction end to it so when you suction onto it then you can slide it all around there to really make sure that your surface is ready to see onto the new valves and as i do this when i pull it out we're looking for a real gray perfect ring around the valve the lapping compound will leave a mark and that mark's going to tell us that this valve is really seating well and you can see rachel see the gray all the way around there now we got to get all that laughing compound i sprayed some cleaner on the rag here and i've got to get that all off can't leave any of that residue inside the engine wow look at that nice seat around there it's perfectly gray shiny all the way around same with the valve the valves are brand new so they see quite well anyhow like it left a great print all the way around okay we're ready to assemble it we're going to start with the intake valve here this is the larger of the two so we're gonna put that in and it'll come right through the guide the intake takes a seal you don't put seals on the exhaust because it'll get too hot but the intake does and the seals come in the head gasket set everything else in this section comes in the valve set i'm going to put a new spring on and then for the intake the cap is two piece so i have both pieces on there and then we're going to get this compressor right over top of that cap the cap is a piece that you reuse it's not something that's new you look like i'm on good yes you're on very good okay okay then once that's tight i like to take a little bit of grease and put it right on and for the intake you use these keepers like this they are directional then smaller end is going to go in first and then there's a groove in the keeper that kind of comes right onto the top of the um shaft there so you've got to get those directions right get one on each side to complete the circle this one needs to go down a little bit further there that's perfect i'm going to hold that on and then we'll release the spring just like that perfect once it's in i like to give it a little bit of a tap here just to make sure that it's secure as it should be now we'll follow that same process on an exhaust so this is the smaller valve again we're putting a new spring on notice that there's no seal the cap is a little bit different on the exhaust it's just one piece and then they are held into place with these little half moons instead of the keepers like we saw earlier so same process here with the compression and i'm going to get the grease again the grease just really helps to hold those keepers on since they're you know you got to make the two half circles let me dry off my finger here before i touch these little half moons oops i'm going to slide on there got that one crooked so i'm going to use a screwdriver here i'm going to get it dry it'll be a little easier okay see if they'll snap in there once you tighten it yes you can see how they just close right up once we tighten that and again we'll tap it with a hammer make sure that it springs back like it should that looks really good i'm going to dry off that excess grease and you can see that i already have my other three cylinders done another reason the stranger could have overheated is the soft plug on the end of the head is leaking so real quick before we put the head on the tractor we're gonna change the soft plug now the soft plug there's lots of ways to put these in i'm just gonna get it in with a hammer and then i have a socket that's the right size what you can't do is you can't drive it past because it actually go through into the head cavity and you'll actually just pound it right through so the soft plug needs to be flush that's the secret here is not to go too far with the soft plugs i'm gonna take a hammer and remove the old one and work it getting the new one in see like that i just pounded it through and it goes way deep into there so i'm gonna take the old one out of there use my square brush to clean up the hole so i want to get it real clean i'm gonna put a little bit of silicone around the new soft plug these are really odd size soft plug hard to find we do sell these if you're looking for one we can help you with them okay so i put silicone all the way around it outside of it just to help seal you want this to seal the best it can so i've got silicone all the way around and then i'm going to carefully put it in the hole i've got the head on the floor so that it sits flat i've got a couple ideas here i have the socket i showed you i have a large hammer head that fits over the top of it that you can hit it in flat the object is to get it all the way down flush with the head i'm just cupping down the center just a little bit and i've got it just a little bit below the surface i don't want to go any further than that i siliconed around it so it's good and sealed i'll wipe the silicone off and that'll be done with my black clean and my head clean i'm ready to put my new head gasket into place i sprayed this with a copper sealant this is an old black and i want to make sure that i get a really good seal on it if you don't want to use copper coat then you don't have to but i would recommend it to you normally the head gasket will say this side up but if it doesn't the smooth side goes towards the black and then the rolled side will go towards the top with that we're ready to drop the head into place you can see that i made two dowel there to help line it up there's no dowels on this block so it makes putting the head on actually a little bit difficult on this tractor but with those two dowels there to line up we can set it into place and that way we don't damage the head gasket when we put it down i made those just by grinding off the top of a bolt and then i slid a head into it so i can use like a screwdriver to get those out and those will be easy to remove i'm reusing these head bolts here which you can just drop into place and tighten them up i am going to get all of my head bolts just snug then i will go through with my torque wrench at about 40 pounds of torque and then i'll finish it off at the 65 pounds of torque which is what the book recommends for this head also in the book there is a sequence for tightening down the head bolts so you want to look at the book reference that and tighten them down in that order you start in the middle and work your way out you don't want to just go in any old order as you can do some damage if you did that so i sprayed some of these with lubricant before i got started my dad didn't spray his so he's praying his one by one but you don't want to put them in dry okay make sure you have a little bit of lube on the bottom you can use any sort of lube that you want to use okay one two three four five six seven eight nine ten did you read that one nope 11 and then 12. there you go all right on the bottom of your oil delivery tube is a small seal your new seal comes in the head gasket set so make sure you pick off your old one and put your new seal on before you put your oil tube in next i'm going to start putting the push rods in we sell these separate you can buy these one at a time they do get bent quite easy because they are a long tube and they get pried on and stuff so these ones are all nice and straight again we make new ones if you need them another piece that you want to not forget about is these little caps that go onto half of your valves these would be the intake no exhaust yes exhaust valves the idea with the rotor caps is the exhaust is supposed to spin as the motor is running to keep them from burning the exhaust yeah i saved them towards the end so they wouldn't fall off with that we're ready to drop the oil delivery tube down into place you want to set that in there you got to make sure that it snaps all the way in and boy i like captain there you heard it snap yep there we go i'll roll it back so that you can get in in front of me make sure that's all of these set onto the rockers and then on the other side they rest on top of the valves does that look okay up there i can't quite see no this one didn't make it okay got all the push rods in the little cups this spins over the top of that and there's a little clip that holds it into the top of the rocker if you need to replace your oil your water pump now would be a good time go ahead and move your water pump see if there's any play whatsoever mine is really snug so it's not damaged i'm going to leave it as is but we do sell a new water pump if you need one and there are two different water pumps the jubilee and the 600 and 800 share two different styles of pumps so make sure you look at the style you have compared to what we have on the web page you get the right one how you tell is this one here i can grab it and i can wiggle the fan there is no movement if you have a little bit of movement in that bearing time to change it i torqued these four bolts down to 45 foot-pounds of torque the manual says 45 to 55 for the specification there once you have those four torqued your rocker assembly should be set to go there with your oil tube into place next i want to talk about the thermostat i'm choosing to put a brand new thermostat in my tractor this is a tractor-use thermostat that is 168 degrees if you use one from a car it would be higher than that maybe 180 185 or even hotter so you want to make sure that you use one that's specific for tractors this will fit into the tractor either way but there's only one way that's correct the correct way is with the spring into the head so that's the way that's going to set on there and then there's a new gasket that does come with your head gasket set that goes right over top i am putting 1540 oil into my tractor the manual would suggest an older style oil like a low ash oil but this 1540 is the modern equivalent for tractors like this you can see that i also put my supports on the front and the back for the gas tank and then i also put a new oil filter on mine has a spin on spin on oil filter yours could have the cartridge either way just go ahead and change that oil filter while you're at it this does take five quarts of oil so i'll need to start another container and you can also see that i have my spark plugs and my wires here intact as well now we are ready to adjust the valves that is done at 15 000 while the engine is cold we'll retest it later on when the engine is hot but for right now we're going to set these to 15 thousands you loosen it up here on this end my dad has a wrench and then you can see that the screwdriver head is there so we are on piston number one on the compression stroke you can see that this is loose we're going to do them one cylinder at a time you get to the compression stroke by rolling the engine over you can see i have my coil wire removed so that the tractor won't start and then you can just press the starter button to roll over to a different stroke i'm gonna roll it over just to show everybody how we got okay that's what we're watching for that just went down and then the second one opened up so now we have past that and they're both open so we want them in the open position and we're going to set them both at 15 000 at the same time okay this one is actually just right at 15 000 so you can tighten that one up yeah and i'm trying to hold this in and tighten the jam nut at the same time and then recheck them yeah okay that's good yep all right this one it could go a little bit tighter yeah that was too much back off a little bit okay i like it there so this job is a lot easier with two people as you can see this one was way off but we changed valve so that's to be expected so you're holding it in place with the screwdriver head while you tighten up the nut okay now if you look this one here is tight so we got to roll it around and get this on compression stroke so here we go there it is yep they're both ready to go now okay and then you just follow that same process the 15 thousandths while this is on the compression stroke we'll do the same procedure for cylinders three and four i added coolant to my radiator i also put my manifold and carburetor on and hooked up the linkages for the choke and throttle on this side i put my temperature probe into place and as you can see i do have my cover into place here there are two kind of like rubber sealed washers that go underneath the acorn nuts those washers are included in the head gasket kit as well as the gasket for this cover for the valves this gasket that goes inside here is a really tight fit it's a good fit but you got to work with it to secure all the way around and then set it into place with your cover onto the top of the engine here with all of that into place my next step will be to connect my muffler and then my gas tank and we'll start it up the first thing i want to do right now is make sure that i have good oil pressure i can see my oil pressure gauge climbing up and it's about 40 psi right now maybe even 42 which is excellent for this tractor then i'm going to idle it down a little bit and i'm going to let it run right there that might have been a little too much idle i'm going to hop off and check for any leaks i want to make sure that i don't have any gas dripping onto the manifold or anything like that so i'm just looking it over as a first visual visual inspection once i know i'm good then i'm going to go ahead and put the hood onto the tractor if i had taken the tappet cover off of my tractor right here i would have used this gasket in these three washer seals however i didn't need to take my tappet cover off these pieces come in your head gasket set so you have them if you want to use them but if you repaired your tractor just like mine you'll have these pieces left over and i want to tell you why they're left over so that you aren't alarmed by leftover parts at the end i hope that this tutorial is helpful to you and that it encourages you to get your tractor in good running condition just like this 800 is now you notice when i did start this track drop that it smoked a little bit that smoke is to be expected remember when we reassembled the tractor we put oil on the rings and also mine had oil in the manifold that is what is smoking on this tractor it's not a smoke that we should be concerned about because it's not excessive and after i let this tractor run for probably 15 minutes to half an hour that smoke will go away and it will run perfectly as it should when you are ready to repair your own tractor please purchase the parts on my website my website is farmtractorrepair.com your purchase on my site helps to fund future tractor tutorials i know that you can buy these parts at a lot of different places but i ask that you make the sale on my site as a way to encourage me to do more tutorials for you you can subscribe to my channel there's a subscribe button at the bottom that will give you a notification every time that a new video is released

Channel: Dan Gingell and Rachel Gingell

Views: 112,881

Keywords:

Id: Ue3LEvaEC-k

Length: 45min 58sec (2758 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 19 2020