Troubleshooting Generator No Spark and No Power Output on a Briggs V-Twin Generac Generator - Fixed

hey guys welcome back so today I picked up this it's a Generac 10,000 EXL and this is a beast of a machine it almost didn't fit in my car it weighs 300 pounds and it's almost three feet tall I think it comes in and around 33 inches or so so pretty serious machine it does make 10,000 continuous watts 12,500 surge and you know this doesn't start it's been eight years since it was last started and of course now it does not run and I can see there's a few things going on here I'm not really sure why there's all this green tape on some of the wires might just be holding it together but I also noticed here that this wire is not connected to anything and from what I can tell it looks like it goes here on the stud for the starter so there's a few issues going on here besides the engine this battery also is completely dead no volts on the voltmeter you know it was made in 2004 so initially I thought this machine was probably built in that year and it's that would make it about 15 years old they started making this generator I think in the mid 90s and probably stopped at around 2004-2005 and there's another code over here and it looks like it says nine six oh seven oh five so that means the engine was built in 96 July 11th so this machine is just about 24 years old and I got to say for its age it looks like it was well cared for so hopefully we're not dealing with anything more than just a dirty carb yeah I did check the fuel tank it does look mostly empty but it kind of goes downhill and the caps on this end so there could be some stuff down on the far end this is powered by a Briggs v-twin engine it's a five hundred seventy CC I believe it's a vanguard engine it's a industrial extended life engine very nice engine it does have compression it's quite easy to turn over so I don't think we're dealing with any engine problems here it's most likely fuel related and with that said I did pick up a similar generator it was a power mate also had a Briggs v-twin on it and I definitely learned something from that experience that one I could not save the carburetor it had a jet that was stuck and I ended up stripping it out so I figured not a big deal just buying a jet I'm not a new jet a new carburetor up until that I think about 120 bucks was the most I'd ever spent on an OEM carb this one was $250 to $300 depending upon where you looked and I no choice I had to buy it you know now there are more options there's actually a clone out and for like thirty or forty bucks you can get the clone carb with gaskets and spark plugs and a few other things so it's a great deal hopefully it works they are kind of hit and miss but if I do need a new car I'm definitely gonna try that clone first luckily the carburetor I couldn't save off of that other v-twin I still have so potentially I could use it to donate some parts and they do appear to be the same carburetor so I really want to stick with the OEM if I can so whether I can bring that one back on its own or give it a little help you know I'd like to do that but worst case there are some clone and OAM options so I'm gonna get you set up in a stand I want to get that carb off and just see right away kind of what we're dealing with and go from there so this unfortunately does not reveal too much you know the choke linkage is up here unfortunately the throttle linkage is down below and I believe what has to happen next is this Tim Bullington here needs to come off to gain access to the intake manifold and I think the whole thing has to be unbolted to get this out Wow this engine is mint look at that 25 years old those Magneto's look new intake new fins new amazing so the main issue here getting this carb off is the both in the back it is not accessible at all so in order to get this off unfortunately I get a pull the two bolts on this side of the intake as well as that side and then kind of lift it off while at the same time getting the linkage out this one looks like it'll just come out that does not look proper I wonder what locks that in hmm sometimes there's a little plastic clip that's supposed to come around and clip in to kind of hold it wonder if that's missing yeah it's missing this is the old carb sorry the donor carb and you can see this here it's supposed to flip around onto that wire to keep it from kind of doing this or it just pops out so I don't know this doesn't look removable but if I pull the screw here I should be able to slide that shaft out and just swap the two if that's what it takes these bolts pretty loose someone's definitely been in here but it's 25 years old so I don't expect that on the first not bad actually this looks quite good and nothing obvious wrong with this I believe this is the emotion to you about here and the holes actually look fine and there is a jet down in there you got to pull this bolt off to get it out that is the Jedi stripped out on the other carb and this one looks a little bit hacked up too so I'm guessing someone did try to get this jet out so I'm gonna roll the dice here and try to get it out other than that I don't really see anything else that can be removed and I mean this carb looks excellent yeah that's not gonna come loose so before I mess it up too bad I think I'm just gonna try to clean the hole without taking it out that Jets fine actually I can see the light shining through it so don't think this carb is the issue they are not a same carburetor so this is the throttle plate on the parts one and I was hoping to switch out the shaft with the one that has the locking clip but that is not gonna work all right so it's all back together more or less I couldn't find anything wrong with this carburetor other than you know these screws were loose and this boat was loose so someone's definitely been in here but this thing is pristine you know I don't think there's anything going on here other than the missing retainer for the throttle arm it's very important that were to that arm were to pop out you know the throttle would can and would go anywhere it wants to and that would destroy the engine so do you need to still figure out something for that you know unfortunately that other shaft although it's the right diameter in length it has a different set up for a smaller plane so I can't use that but I got a few ideas okay so it had a few ideas but actually just have one this is from a briggs generator and this is the only card I have hanging around that has this retaining piece here and you know this one's just a plastic one but it's fine it's just to keep the arm from popping out and that's exactly what this carb was using and it's also a break so I'm hoping I can just pop that out of there and hopefully it's the same diameter as this one so let's hope Briggs has the same diameter hold on this guy nice so that hopefully will work out you know that throttle arm still needs to be able to fit in that hole which hopefully it does and then this will snap down on top of that throttle arm to hold it in I'm just gonna check the fuel flow make sure it's coming out okay and just see what the gas looks like in general yeah we get good flow yeah code is not too bad doesn't smell all that good but I've seen a lot worse but I'm gonna drain this anyway put some fresh stuff in and bolt everything back out I don't see any issues with the carburetor or the fuel system so maybe this thing just works or maybe we have another issue like no spark so I guess we'll put it back together okay good that retainer did what it was supposed to so that arm is not going to come out now okay aside from the ridiculously clean carburetor these Magneto's just look like they're new and you know just rotating the engine here by hand here that I'm pretty sure we might be touching a little so that one especially looks close so I'm gonna recap these just to make sure much better so now that I know the fuel system is in pretty good shape I'm turning my attention now to spark and I'm noticing a couple of things right away you know this is the right side of the engine you know I pulled this boot off the plug and I went to plug this spark plug tester in and it wasn't clicking in and this watt the wire that's in here I'd have to actually pulled out maybe quarter of an inch half an inch and I couldn't click it on so what I unplugged it I don't think I did that I'm fairly certain that someone plugged it in it probably just set the spark plug over the boot and they thought it was connected so regardless if this has spark or not I don't think spark was getting to this plug this I'll talk about in a minute but let me show you that there is spark at least on this side hopefully that came across there is decent consistent spark on this side now this wire here looks like someone put this on themselves you know it looks pretty bad and same thing with this black wire up here you know has one of these connectors on someone squeezed it on so I'm a little bit suspect to these wires anyway the Magneto's both of the Magneto kill wires terminate other side of this post and this should be the kill signal from the engine and to the oil sensor so I just wanted to make sure that that switch is working so what I'm gonna do is just put this alligator clip on here and I'll put the other end on the multimeter bleed and then I'll do something similar to the other lead here and I'll connect it to a ground that might be sufficient so if I turn this to continuity we get nothing which is good because I have the generator in the run position I go flick the ignition switch to off we get a ground so that wire is correct this is the kill wire that goes to this post but like right now it's set to run so I'm going to set the switch back to off and reconnect that to this post and that should kill spark but don't think it is as before I took this wire off I was getting spark no matter what position I put that switch so most likely the wires on the magneto are not connected to this post or maybe there's something actually wrong with the post itself all right so it is set to OFF so when I pull this cord you should know I see spark yeah so this is grounded out right now we should not be seeing spark here at all but I am seeing some spark so for some reason the signal is not making a damn to this Magneto and this is just the right side let's take a look at the left so this is the side that had the magneto kind of hitting rubbing against the flywheel and for this one we're just going to do the same test this connection was good like it definitely was on the spark plug not much of anything I mean I see a little little teeny flicker once in awhile but it's it's really a weak spark to no spark so there's probably something wrong with that coil so we're back here again and what I want to check out here is first of all this kill wire make sure it's connected you know to both Magneto's and that there's continuity in this wire to this post so the first thing I noticed just looking at this one that tab not really focusing too well but that tab with the kill wire is loose so that connector is not very good which might explain a little bit of what I'm seeing I mean this one isn't really sparking but it does spark a little bit on the tester regardless of whether the switch is on or off and then this one even harder to show you but it is connected on here solidly and the way it works is is one wire coming here and then kind of splits and sends another one here so let me just test for continuity and make sure that that is a good wire so I've been taking a much closer look at this kill wire and initially I thought someone had spliced pieces together here and Frankenstein's something together but on closer look these are actually diodes and the way that work is that they only let negative flow one way so you can see here kind of there's a white stripe on the diode on these sides so that I believe means negative can flow in this direction regardless of what whatever direction it is you know that is the indicator of the flow now this wire here was plugged into the post that receives the kill signal and the diode is facing on the left side here so if my understanding is right it's going to go here and stop so nothing else downstream is going to receive any signal and the even more confusing thing is let's just say that I don't know the power did get by there you know this one is connected to a Magneto and so is this lead and the diodes are opposite each other you know as far as the flow goes if something didn't seem right so and I thought about it for a while and I think what's going on here is that someone took this wire off and reconnected it improperly I think this should go on the post the kill post and then each one of these goes to a magneto and now the diodes are both facing toward the magneto so it's going to let that kill signal flow in so I'm gonna reconnect it that way I'm also going to see if I can straighten out this a little bit you can see it's split open some and I think that's why it's not making a good connection on that post so if I you know take some pliers and kind of squeeze that closed a bit hopefully it'll latch on to the magneto well alright so I got the wires all hooked up the way I think they should be so I do want to put the blower housing back on and just pull the engine over a few times and see what if anything has changed with the spark okay so we're looking at the right side of the engine this is the side that had spark but I couldn't kill it right now have the engine ignition in the off position so hopefully there's no spark here okay okay now click the ignition on okay that's what it's supposed to do now so let me bring this over to the other side and see if the left side is fixed and this side pretty much had no spark no matter what so the engine still in the run position okay good that's good spark now we'll switch it off and it killed spark so I think we're ready for contact the fuel system looks good carburetors in good shape feels good I put new fuel in spark on both sides is good and more importantly the off switch works so I'm gonna bring this thing outside and try firing it up all right so it's actually pouring rain outside right now so I'm not really in a good position to bring this out to test at the moment so you know I am working on a few things here I did you know take off all that green tape and just put some zip ties on here there's no concerns on these wires you know did the same here you know I was a little suspect of this wire up here you know it's a homemade connector here and it runs all the way back into this control box I was thinking what you know what in here needs 12 volts you know I couldn't think of anything so I did check the diagram and it's actually not sending 12 volts into the panel it's sending power out to the battery so there's a bridge rectifier in here treating DC power for this and that same DC power is also being piped to the servo as well as to this wire which then feeds right into the battery so I think that wiring is fine you know really I just need to get this reconnected for the electric start and electrically I think this thing will be sound at that point okay so they're pretty good now I don't think that's going anywhere okay so we're just about ready to go here get everything hooked up to it just a space heater a blow dryer and a light as well as a meter to measure the voltage as well as the Hertz and I think my son wants to start it so we'll let him try he is also bringing the fire extinguisher it's just in case yeah this thing is magnificent I gotta say out of all the generators I fixed it has a beautiful engine the beautiful stator housing so looking forward to getting this going hopefully it goes well are you gonna start it or mine [Applause] [Music] [Applause] you don't push the starter again into the engine stops yep whoo backfire all right let me try it I had it show so there's a lot of gas [Applause] [Music] all right so clearly we have some more work to do there is something wrong I'd say the valves are either out of adjustment or not closing potentially a timing issue I wouldn't really expect that you know the flywheel if it was the key was sheared the timing would be off but on a generator I don't see that really happening so I'm gonna take those valve covers off first and check the valve clearance someone was definitely troubleshooting spark this plug looks brand-new as well as the other one from the other side so these have not seen any action really so yeah something else is going on here I mean we got spark now new plugs Magneto's are gapped I'm gonna put any compression tester on there and test each side and see what we get so I would expect that would expect somewhere between maybe 50 and 60 this should have a compression release so I don't think we're going to see anything higher than that [Applause] I could be wrong so that is closer to its 1 over 100 maybe 105 or so so that is a good number let's try the other side all right now for the right side it's really good almost 120 so I'm gonna test the left side again just to see if I can get the number up anymore all right now we'll check the e what is this the left side let's check the left side so I'd call that at 1:10 a little bit lower than the right side but that should be sufficient to get this engine running so nobody got spark we definitely have compression and fuel so thinking the flywheel key could be sheared so I'm gonna pull this cover back off and take our closer look so that key is good so that means we have good time we've got compression we've got fuel we've got spark I'm missing something here that was don't feel too bad let's take a look at the other side overall the valve clearances are pretty good I wouldn't say they're dead-on but they're probably within a couple thousand nothing's too tight if anything maybe a touch loose but not enough to be concerned about the only issue I saw when taking off this cover someone over torqued it and broke this cover so that'll have to be replaced but doesn't need to be done right now until we get a working engine okay so I may have just figured it out we saw that the compression was good the valve clearance looked pretty spot-on you know we know the timing was good we pulled the flywheel the key looked fine you know so that pretty much rules everything out except you know we know we got this machine someone was messing her out the Magneto's these were new new Magneto's are the one-off brand and the wires were hooked up wrong it was gapped improperly and finally figured out I think the final piece of the puzzle they're on backwards and I can kind of see why they might have gotten confused because on the OEM ones this tab goes in the back meaning it should be not visible it should be right on the back here but on this one which is in aa aftermarket one I can't even say that there are some differences one of them being with this tab is more kind of on the side but up front on the side and I we obviously tested for spark after we fixed all the other problems that we had spark but since reversing this one I get really good spark where is this one it still lights up the tester but the spark coming off the plug is pretty weak and the light isn't as bright as it is once the coil is flipped around so let me show you the difference between a coil that's on backwards versus one that's on correctly so visibly very weak spark and I can tell it's not coming across I mean it looks great on the spark tester but when I switch to the other side you'll see so it's not the first time I get excited about something before knowing a hundred percent if that's it but I think that's it so I'm gonna get this one turned around and gapped the only other issue I can see is that on the original let me turn the light on for you on the original coil this tab is in the back and it's a little bit further over so I think this original wire actually isn't gonna reach all the way over here which is probably why it was installed the way that it was so what I'm most likely gonna have to do is pull this wire off the tab here this post to the kill post and make a little jumper to make this wire essentially longer by a few inches so that I can reach you know thus far kill post over here and then when I flip it around the other one will be over here so I do need longer wires I think for that there's a bit of a winter storm going on outside so I do want to give this a quick start here in the garage just to see that you know flipping the Magneto's actually helped and fixed the engine no start condition so I'm going to start it real quick hopefully and see that it makes power I got a light cooked up and turned on and yeah that's it so let me get it started okay that started very well actually without the choke on but you may have noticed two things the light did not turn on also the engine just shut down so it could be a fuel problem or a spark problem I'm not sure I'm going to get the spark tester on it and started to get and see if that sheds any light on why it just shut down so I got the spark tester hooked up I'm just going to restart it and keep an eye on that to see if we lose in spark so I think you could see we lost barque which is why it shut down there's really only one reason that would be happening well maybe to you know potentially there is still an issue with those diodes on that kill wire or you know this generator has a little oil sensor actually it's an oil pressure sensor potentially that's bad so I wanted this connect the wire on that sensor and restart it see if there's any different result lost spark again so I'm thinking I'm going to just disconnect the kill wire from the kill post and see if that fixes the problem you know thinking at this point if it's not the sensor really not sure what it could be the oil sensor doesn't seem to be connected to the kill post it actually goes into this control box here so potentially there's a little brain box in there telling it to shut down separate from the sensor which case I'll have to study the wiring diagram a bit to figure out what else could be tripping that but let me just get the wire off the kill post we'll try it again and see if that allows it to run more than a few seconds [Music] [Music] so disconnecting with kill wire solved the shutdown problem this thing will run now it runs really good the engine sounds great yeah unfortunately there's something in that control box telling it to shut down you know I'm not sure what it is offhand so when I consulted the wiring diagram and just see what it could be so I'm going to take a minute to do that also there's no power output so potentially they could be related you know maybe the the generators seeing some sort of fault and telling you know the engine to shut down so not sure which is going on but I will need to do a little bit of research and I'll turn you back on shortly so I've done a little homework and I pulled off this cover that was here and underneath is the power control board and this normally these only have four wires to coming from the stator and then to going out to the brushes in this case it's a little bit more advanced it has three additional wires which run up into here and that connects to a system control board and that's the same board that the oil sensor is connected to and it also has a wire connected to the ignition which can kill spark so that system control board is what's killing spark so potentially that board is bad or it's seeing a fault condition and shutting down the generator that control board also I believe monitors the AC output and since there is none that might be why it's shutting down maybe it knows that or maybe it's detecting a fault here since these wires are connected to the control board as well so I found a good article that discusses how to troubleshoot this and they say usually it's not the system control board in here that goes bad it's usually the power control board and a quick test you can do is just unplug this three wire connector down here start it back up if you get power then you know the system Control board's bad if you don't give power then it's probably this that's bad but there's a few more tests we can do based on the result of this test so I'm gonna unplug that connector start it up put a voltmeter in here and see what we get didn't want to leave it running too long I only got one point nine volts on this meter which is a bit low well it's very low but I was expecting a little higher even though this thing wasn't powering up so residual magnetism could be an issue and you know the fact that I unplugged that connector and there's still no power tells me that it's probably not the control board that's bad it's most likely this power control board not the system control board and really the next test to do besides the ohm tests which I did is to remove these wires from the brush assembly and connect a DC 12 volt battery to it while the engines running and that should produce around 50 or 60 volts something that we could maybe see a little bit on the light and measure down here so I'm gonna rig that up and we'll do one final test if that tests good then it's that power control board so this is the plan and hopefully I did this right I have a couple alligator clips on the brushes and I believe the brush closest to me is negative and the one further away is positive I'm just going to double-check that and I want to start it up and once it's running I'm going to attach this 12 volt source DC I do have it fused just in case it goes horribly wrong don't want to leave it connected to all these wires or not not really appropriate they're going to overheat but what this should do is power up the rotor and I still have the meter hooked up to the AC outlet so I should see you know around 50 60 volts hopefully and that should be enough to get this light to start to glow a little bit and if it does if that all happens then that means the rotor and stator are in fact probably good and it's just the power control board that most likely just needs to be replaced [Music] [Music] that startled me here just a little bit I was getting more voltage than I thought it was closer than 90 volts which is good I did not see that light turn on and what happened was a generator kicked up faster and what I'm guessing happened was by producing that 90 volts this servo powered up and actually adjusted the throttle based on really these set screws that are over here and I was messing with those so it probably adjusted it a little fast so I'm gonna just die on that in a little bit which I think will slow it down a bit and try the test again I'm just gonna double-check this white I really would have expected it to come on unless of course I didn't have the switch set aright so what a double check back now alright so we'll try this again remove the kill wire batteries ready volt meter's ready and yeah I think we're good for contact this light was on so I'm not sure why didn't see it I thought the meter said around 80 or 90 volts that should have been enough to turn this on so I'm gonna try it one more time see what happens that is good news that light turned on pretty bright so the rotor is good stator them a little bit unsure about the reason why that light didn't come on was because I had it plugged in on the top so I switched it move the light down on the bottom and the meter on the top and I couldn't get reading so most likely this is you know one leg of the one to 40 and this is the other and there's something wrong with this one so I'm going to I guess to take a closer look you know I assume there's a bunch of fuses here but wherever these wires go either that part of the stator is toast or or there's something wrong you know maybe a blown fuse who knows a little deeper into the rabbit hole here I hate it when people mess around with wiring cuz you don't know what it looks like before and there's a lot of homemade connectors here and it's the top outlet that I was having trouble with so I tracked the hot wire to this fuse which then goes to this fuse it sends a hot out to this plug and another one over here and finally it comes over here to ground I believe on this 50 M plug that's why we're not getting any power and the best I can tell is that you know there are three wires coming out of the stator it should be 240 with a common in the middle now which is which I don't know then this three coming out here and I would expect that for this outlet you would need you know this is basically neutral assembly I get the wires right and then you would have one hut on each side so I need to look at this a little bit more before I start moving wires around but it does appear that someone has hooked up the top outlet here the hot is connected to neutral or ground so yeah you're not gonna get any power here so I don't think I still don't think it's a state or issue and that could actually explain why we're not getting any power you know this control board needs power as well as this other board you know and where's the bridge rectifier getting it from if it's not getting it from the bottom circuit then it may not get power at all based on what I'm seeing so maybe the boards aren't bad it might just be a wiring issue this one threw me for a little bit of a loop I was looking originally at the dash 3 version of the wiring diagram and although it's similar it is different in a couple material ways the first one being this 50 amp plug according to the dash 3 version the hot wires which are these coming from a stator should go through a fuse and then into the 50 amp plug on this generator a dash 1 version there are no fuses this is directly connected to the stator and that's what it's doing but then it shows there's jumper wires from the heart of each side going to each of these fuses I think these are 30 or 35 uses and although the jumper wires are both there only one of them is going to the hot and the other one's going to basically nowhere you know it's connected to a ground or a common I'm not sure what this is but there's nothing else connected here this should be a hut it should be over here so that's the first wiring mistake hopefully the only one I'm going to go through this a little bit more and just see if there's anything else obvious wrong but by moving this wire back to here that'll correct the problem and in this version of the generator there's not supposed to be a wire here at all so I will leave that empty and hopefully that's it I mean this is kind of a mess someone's been in here clearly making their own connections so hopefully there's nothing else major going on in here I think I found another mistake this black wires for charging the battery right so it comes back here and in is black we also have a green wire that's going over to the oil pressure switch and if you look over here the green wire comes in right here it looks like it's going to a bridge rectifier so that poor switch is getting 12 volts DC and that could or may have cooked the switch this black wire which is supposed to be the charging wire is actually going to the oil sensor right here so this board should be getting the oil sensor input which is the green wire so these two are backwards so I want to get those swapped around and yeah that she's trying to think of the impact of that I mean this is getting 12 volts now from the battery which is going into this board you know so is it taking that 12 volts as the sensor is tripped and that's why it's shutting them down or the 12 volts cook the board yeah I don't know that's too bad anyway I'll get those fixed and keep looking so hopefully the last test for today I've got lights hooked up to both outlets which are different legs of the 120 I'm gonna reapply power to the brushes and hopefully we get power [Music] [Music] okay that is what I wanted to see we're now getting 120 volts out of each 120 volt leg and you know I don't have enough time really to test everything thoroughly but the important things are working now the engine now stays running even with the kill wire permanently attached and since it's making power on both legs when I supply DC power to the rotor I know that the rotor and the stator are good it did not make power when disconnecting it from the system board which is a sign that this module is bad so I'm gonna order new one of these you know the test by putting the power into the rotor is just to rule out something wrong with the power head but that's good we know the system board's good most likely we need a new one of these so you know I got this thinking it was an engine related issue from sitting around clearly I was lied to it's been all electrical you know from the ignition system all the way back to the power generation whoever was working on this really had no idea electrically what they were doing you know I wish that would have been disclosed I mean I still would have bought it but I would have checked that first instead of wasting my time going through the carburetor at the beginning this carburetor is perfect the engine of the perfect is nothing wrong it's all electrical so yeah for you it would be two seconds but I'm gonna get this thing ordered it'll probably take a week and I'll turn you back on for the installation and hopefully the final test houston we have a problem this was discontinued years ago it is not available anywhere new or used and this is the most common part really on this generator to fail so it's kind of surprising that there's no you know kind of versions of this and it might have something to do with the fact that it spotted it makes it more difficult to fix or end or reverse-engineer anyway I do I am do every search in eBay that will alert me if anything comes up but you know I would say it'd probably be years before I managed to locate one of these you know in the interim I did find a similar part and actually let me back up a minute for anyone who's looking this part number is nine two seven six nine GS not available the part that I did find is for a lesser generator it's a Generac 755 0e XL and it's reduced wattage you know 7.5 kilowatts but it does have the same surge capability as this and the board looks very similar this is it right here has the same snubber networking input has the same AC inputs and DC outputs you know so the connectors line up you know this is not meant for this machine so I don't know what the impact is going to be I know at the generator that this goes on the rotor has lower ohm rating on the rotor than this one so there aren't going to be differences whether that's enough to cause a problem I don't know but I am gonna plug this in and leave the snubber Network unplugged for this one if I leave it unplugged I should be getting around 130 to 150 volts so I want to see if I'm leaving this unplugged we'll do the similar thing and if it does I'll plug it in see hopefully that the voltage comes down to a more acceptable level and there is a potentiometer on the system board that I can dial in the voltage more precisely they recommend you know setting the engine speed first to about 62 Hertz which is around 37 100 rpm a little above that and once that set to dial in this voltage 225 volts so that's getting ahead of myself let's see if this thing will bring this back to life and then we'll worry about trying to tune it you lyin if I said I wasn't a little nervous about this you know this board is not the right one but it is the board that's used on all the other EXL generators except for the 10,000 EXL I did find a diagram a circuit diagram of this board and I was able to compare it to the board that's supposed to be on here and has exactly the same components on it these components are rated a little bit less so you know I think we'd be good probably till about 7 or 8,000 watts after that I don't know what'll happen it's either gonna blow out the thyristor or it's just gonna max out and the volt voltage might sag a bit which is fine I'd rather have that then that thing blow out anyway I get the snubber Network unplugged so assuming this thing powers up it's gonna run at its full potential which if this was the original board would be between 130 and 150 volts so hoping to get something at least around 130 if not more and I'm not hooking up anything except the meter at this point because if it does go to 150 160 I really don't want to blow anything up so we only got three volts out of that so I I don't know if it's because of the bad part or if there's something else going on I know what that I did hook up the 12 volts backwards so it the residual magnetism it switched poles probably on the rotor so we'll try giving the kickstart by flashing it with a drill see if I can get this thing to to power up [Music] [Music] well flashing it did get it going the voltage was high higher than I expected so I do need to check the engine RPMs you know most likely the excessive voltage is due to the fact that this is their own part and the ohms are different in that rotor and maybe the voltage going into that that regulator might be higher than it is on the other gener acts anyway I'm gonna plug in the snubber Network restart it see if it can regulate the voltage down to a better level hopefully around 125 or less alrights try it again that worked out pretty well I did need to flash it to get the system to kind of kickstart and that's probably my fault I'm sure it's my fault you know when I connected the DC to the brushes I got the polarity wrong and what it most likely did was flip the residual magnetism in that rotor so north east south south is north and in order to power up it needs to flip those poles and most likely the magnetism probably would just collapse trying to do that on its own so I gave it a little kick start with the drill and we're good and after shutting it down restarting it a few minutes later power came right back on so hopefully we don't have a residual magnetism issue you know otherwise the voltage is good you know the system Control Board regulated it right down to 122 volts unloaded under a brought a 3200 watt load it did sag a bit to 114 I kind of wish it would have stayed closer to 120 but you know I can't I guess I can't complain too much it is an acceptable range and I can fine tune the engine speed a little bit and I will do another test with a higher load you know probably closer to 4,500 to 5,000 Watts just to make sure that voltage doesn't collapse at some point so I do need to get a new rocker cover ordered which I knew but this crack is much worse than I thought it actually extends out from this hole and goes all the way across the cover which is why the oils leaking so bad and kind of splashing up here on the heat shield and the exhaust so I'll get a new one of those and the only other issue that I know about is really just finding a way to mount this you know it's not meant to be hanging out here it's supposed to be screwed on right there and this is a different form factor it has like rails on the side it's supposed to slide in which isn't really going to work in this case I do need to come up with something to get this thing on there so let me let me turn you guys off get that rocker get this thing to figure it out and you know probably let it sit for a week or so and start it up again just to make sure residual magnetism isn't an issue and that the same will power up without giving it a kick start it's been a few days still waiting on the rocker cover you know was there anything editing this video today and realize something there's some footage I cut out and before I applied 12 volts to the brushes you know as soon as that engine was running without shutting down I did plug in a drill and try flashing it which did not work so I cut that footage out it was kind of redundant because I was applying 12 volts down here later well as we found out the 12 volts is applied backwards so that would have made things even worse and when I tried flashing it I used the top outlet and at the time I didn't realize or didn't know at the top outlet it was wired incorrectly so that flashing it through this top outlet would have done nothing because it was connected to ground basically and the 12 volts down here did worse than nothing so I never really successfully flashed this generator with the old board so now I'm thinking I need to give that old board one last chance so I'm gonna remove this new one which is the improper part plug in the old one and give it one last try after a few days lost in the mail it did finally arrive so it looks like the right part so I'm going to go ahead and take this off put the new one on and then we should be good all right so we're gonna do a much bigger Lua test today it's going to be close to 4500 watts I'm going to do 1,500 watts and two of the heaters and then an additional 800 watts on each leg so that'll bring the total pretty much near the 20 amp max that this thing can do out of those outlets so let's start it up check the Hertz you know I wanted to be around 61 and a half which is about 3700 rpms once I'm sure the engine speed is good I'm going to check the voltage and if it's below 125 I'm going to adjust it up a little bit too like 126 127 and there's a potentiometer behind here that I can stick a screwdriver in and make those adjustments so let me set the engine speed set the voltage and then we'll do the big test dialing and that engine speed took longer than expected seems like every time I thought I had it the engine speed was shift a little bit you know not severely but you know I was trying for 61 and a half and every time I thought I had it it would drift up to like 62 and a half so I finally settled on around 61 Hertz which is a little below probably about 30 650 rpm give or take and that seemed fine then I moved on to adjust this potentiometer to bring the voltage around 125 and this was very sensitive so just keep that in mind if you're adjusting it anytime you adjust or a place you know the power Control Board or the system control board you should probably adjust this to bring it back within spec anyway the voltage held pretty well under full load here was 4500 watts and the voltage stayed at around 119 volts which is perfect the engine speed did sag more than I would have liked but it was still acceptable you know was in the 58 Hertz range under this kind of a load and you know there's not really much I can do about that that's up to the governor to kind of regulate that speed which is why you don't want to set this at 60 Hertz under no-load because under load it's going to drop to an unacceptable level so you know between 58 and 62 is acceptable so unloaded you do want to set it on the higher side because these do normally sag under load to some extent anyway this video was longer than I thought it was gonna be but I think it was worth it we got a good machine out of it hope this video helps someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 199,484

Rating: 4.8563242 out of 5

Keywords: 09801, 09801-1, 10000 EXL, 10000EXL, 350445-1162, 350445-1162-A1, 492341, 591459, 84132GS, 92769GS, Briggs V-Twin, Briggs and Stratton, Carburetor Cleaning, Carburetor, Generac 10000 EXL, Generac 10000EXL, Generac Generator, Generator, Ingnition, Magneto Backwards, Magnigo, No Spark, PCB, Repair, Small Engine, Troubleshooting, Will Not Start

Id: PM8VXYXOJUs

Length: 77min 8sec (4628 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 02 2020