Generator No Power - How to Install New Stator and Rotor / Armature

hey guys welcome back so today brought home another neglected generator uh this one's pretty dirty a bit rusty it's complete and actually i think it would clean up pretty well you know the tank for once [Music] isn't rusted uh gas is a bit old but not too bad you know and everything else looks pretty good the air box i do have the rest of that um the person that i got it from took it off he wanted to show me that it does run but i think he had to spray starting fluid in there anyway i told him don't bother you know it's not a big deal he was giving this away for free so for me it didn't matter if it ran or not worst case it's parts anyway this generator of course has a problem supposedly the engine is good although the car might be a bit dirty but the problem is it doesn't make power if the generator doesn't make power don't spend much trying to fix it because it can be very expensive and usually it's not an easy fix so i've i've bought a few generators like this in the past that don't make power and i'd say 90 of them cannot be fixed the powerhead is just junk you know i i'm trying to stop buying them in this case it was free so you know it's like buying a scratch ticket potentially you could win i'm gonna get you set up in the stand we're gonna start doing some triage on this power head to see uh where the failure is okay hopefully you guys can see that i got it set to ohms and this is a 240 volt generator which means it has two 120 legs and a lot of times they're indicated you know by a box or something so what you want to do is test the ohms of each leg and most generators i've worked on of this size at least generators made in the last 10 years or so the ohms come in somewhere between 0.2 and 0.5 ohms for a healthy stator and in this case i don't know what this one should be but i want to see that there is an ohm reading in that range and if there is you know both should be about the same and before you do this test you know obviously put in ohms touch your leads together and see what the resistance is of your meter this one is 0.1 so if i get a reading of 0.6 i can actually subtract 0.1 from that to get the true reading that's good 0.4 so the actual reading is more like 0.3 so that is a good reading let's check the other side same thing so that's like 0.3.4 that's a good sign so that's actually telling me the stator might be good in which case the only other serious component that could be bad is the rotor otherwise it could be something as simple as the brushes or the avr but to do any more testing we're going to have to take the cover off the power head and run some more tests down there okay well it looks pretty good actually the stator wires go on the outside and the rotor is what's in the in the middle and the the wire color is very good uh no broken ropes so the stator and the rotor appear to be in very good condition so maybe it's not one of those and i can tell you right now just looking at these wires someone has been in here before and i'm guessing spliced some wires together and threw some electric tape on there so maybe the problem is the avr or the brushes so i'm going to get this avr out of here get the brushes out as well and then we'll do some additional tests okay just take note of what side the red wire goes on usually it is the left [Music] okay and the brushes look good okay so now that we have the brushes out of the way in the avr we can get a much better look at everything and it is a little dark looking down there it's not looking quite as good as the top you know with that said there's still no broken ropes so um i think we need to do some more tests now for these tests i'm just using the ohms scale for all these tests now this isn't foolproof when you test ohms without just a multimeter it's testing it at low voltage it's only a couple volts i'm not sure if it's two volts three volts but the point is it's single digits and you may actually get a good reading here but at generator voltages like 120 or 240 volts the ohms might be quite a bit different because the insulation can actually at higher voltages break down you know in this case i don't have anything more than a multimeter so that's what i'm going to go with but you know what i want to do now is when we tested the ohms up at the outlets basically we were testing this pair of wires and this pair of wires and to get the most accurate reading you should just remove them completely from this terminal block and test directly each of these main windings now before doing that i do want to test the other windings now on the stator there's actually two sub windings which come in here the two blue wires supply power to the avr and the white and red actually is what it uses to monitor what the voltage is at the outlets and it adjusts the avr based on what it sees there so if you have a generator that's running at 120 sorry 170 volts but it's supposed to be 120. chances are there's something wrong with the red and the white wires and then if you're getting no power at all and your stator tests good through the outlets and the rotor tests good then your avr is not powering up and it's either because there's nothing no power coming to the blue wires or your avr has an issue or your brushes have an issue and in this case the brushes look fine i mean we can test them if we need to but what i'd like to do now is to just test the ohms on the slip rings directly as well as the blue wire winding and the red and white all right it's really hard to show you the slip rings here but i've got it set up so you can see the meter and i'm just gonna put one lead on each slip ring now the resistance should be roughly around you know somewhere between 50 and 70 ohms i mean 70 is actually really high so ideally like 55 60 ohms would be a healthy reading on a rotor all right i don't know if you can see that i think my hands are in the way but we're at like 57 58 ohms so that rotor is good okay enough of the blue wires which usually it's around 1.5 ohms but that can vary a bit and yeah nothing let me just back probe it to make sure yeah we got nothing on the blue wires so uh that is the point of failure on this stator now i guess i'll check the red and white while i'm here usually that's around point two point three yeah that one's perfect so we're dealing uh with an issue here on the blue wires i don't see anything obviously wrong with them and what little i can see here and i don't see anything wrong on the stator so i think we're gonna have to dig a little bit deeper i'm gonna get the gas tank out of the way just so you can see a bit better and actually get the stator uninstalled that way we can get a better look kind of on the the inner part where the rotor is you know as well as the back side okay that gives us a little bit better view of what's going on here so before we can get the stator out we got to take these bolts out but there's a few things holding us up from doing that namely all these wires connected to this terminal block have to come off you know this wire separated from the stator also this winding down here i'm not familiar with what this is usually i don't see that but there is something a little extra here so i just got to unplug that get these wires off and you know actually too we got to loosen up the end housing so that we can slide the stator off and on this side it looks like the exhaust is attached so we might have to get the exhaust out of the way too so let me start with that and that um we'll start disconnecting some wires all right so that brackets welded to this muffler the only way to get it out of here is to either unscrew it here or on the engine side i think it's a lot riskier on the engine side so i'm going to try the two bolts here and see if it will free up otherwise i have to pull the tins and see if i can get it loose on the engine side i'm not sure this is going to go well nope i'm gonna break it if i keep trying that so try the engine side unfortunately gonna pull a few more bolts one here one here one here and the governor's spring that's not budging hmm [Music] so these bolts don't look quite as angry but they are a lot more risky being that they're into the uh the head of the engine here [Music] so you okay and this generator is also a neutral bonded and you can see this right here these two were the two neutral wires connected together and goes over here where there's also a ground so important to note when you're putting it back together some generators don't do this but most do you know technically i think i could have left these wires on the posts so i think i'm going to put them back really the only thing i need to free up is this wiring harness this bolt and this bolt is holding the end housing onto the stator and i'm not going to remove those i'm just going to remove the long bolts so i can slide the end housing and the stator out together you know if you want to separate the end housing from the stator then you would have to leave these disconnected all right so the stator's freed up that wiring harness is out of the way at this point we should be able to pull these four bolts holding the stator on and if you're lucky you can just slide it right out but usually do you need a puller to apply some light pressure to kind of get this ball bearing uh to come out of this end housing you do need to support the engine because when the stator comes out two of the mounting points are gone so the engine is going to want to flop over so if you put a piece of wood underneath that should do it you know once the stator is removed that wood will kind of act to hold the weight of that engine on that side each the back side of the stator looks great i don't see any signs of a problem there's no broken ropes no burned wires you know even looking down here you know i don't see any any burn marks anywhere i'm going to do a little more digging i mean this stator looks very healthy obviously the blue wires it's open circuit so there's got to be a break somewhere been staring at this for a while there's nothing obviously wrong with it other than there is no ohms on the blue windings so there is clearly a broken wire somewhere and from what i can tell it's kind of hard to see but there is a winding that's in this protective sleeve right here and it goes around and then goes down in right there and that is most likely the blue winding and if you look closer you can see when they were stitching this up they went right through the middle of that protective sleeving so that like half of it is on the outside and the other half is being held you know so if i had to guess i'd say that's most likely where that winding got compromised but you know i've been poking at these wires trying to get a flash of continuity on the meter and i get nothing so you know that might be that might not be it regardless you know i think the stator is done unfortunately and you know at this point i'm just going to bolt it back on so i can bring it outside and at least test the engine to make sure that we have a good engine so do so supposedly this is a good engine so i rigged up a temporary fuel line filled it to about there and i just want to start it up and hear the engine and see that it is in fact good [Applause] okay it runs pretty well a touch lean but that could be because i have the air filters off so i'm not going to worry about that too much right now now um i did take a look online at how much a new generator head would cost and this one isn't too bad it's about 330 dollars which is about the cheapest you'll find and um you know since i got it for free you know i have a little bit of a wiggle room so i think i'm gonna place an order for that and um get it installed all right the order's been placed it's going to be a week or so before it gets here so in the meantime i do want to get this old stator off and the rotor i'm just going to get the spark plug out while i'm here uh in order to get the rotor off later i'm going to have to fill the cylinder with rope all right so now that the cylinder is full of rope i should be able to torque down on this and get the bolt free okay so to remove this rotor uh we got lucky we have threads here if you didn't have threads you would have to tap it but in this case it's pretty easy and i happen to have the right size bolt in this case it's an m12 1.75 the bad news is i don't have the proper size rod to cut to size to use to push down and get this off so instead i'm going to take the engine off stand it up fill this shaft with water put a little bit of teflon on the bolt and crank down and the hydraulic pressure should pop this rotor off so you want to put plenty of teflon on the bolt you really can't put enough well i guess you could the bolt doesn't fit anymore but i guess my point is put on a generous amount uh you don't want any leaks when you tighten down i'm just going to fill the shaft with water you can use oil or grease but just keep in mind this is a tapered shaft it's friction fit you know the oil in the grease it's going to stay on the shaft and you're not really going to be able to clean it out too well so i prefer water but if water is not working you should use something thicker like an oil or a grease and make sure it's full to the top you don't want any air and the piston is full of rope so the engine will only turn so far and then it will walk up and you just want to twerk down now this thing's gonna pop out um pretty loud most likely and it's going to jump potentially it could jump out and onto the floor so just be aware of that there we go that was an easy one so just a quick side note i was cleaning the engine not filming it of course and um you know i was checking the lines the fuel line although i didn't show it had a big crack in it also the spark plug wire the boot here was falling apart so i just put a little electric tape to kind of hold it nice and tight so the wire doesn't pull out and you know i was checking this line too this line is actually very important if it has a crack or a leak it'll be a massive vacuum leak because this line goes down to the insulator which is right between the carb and the engine so any leak here you're going to have major run issues anyway this line seems to be fine all it does is actuate this here which sole purpose is to turn the choke off so when that receives vacuum it pulls on the linkage and theoretically turns the choke off automatically now that might sound nice but it can give you grief especially as they get older personally if this was my generator i would just factory delete this you know cut it down here plug the line off permanently to avoid a future headache besides being dirty the frame isn't in too bad of shape but those two bottom rails the paint's bubbling pretty badly you know some of that looks like rust it's dirt you know but as soon as i start cleaning it i think you know paint chips are gonna start falling off so at a minimum i'm gonna get the hardware off those bottom rails and i just to orientate yourself here i get this standing up on its side and then i'll tape it off you know wire wheel it and just throw some paint on it to kind of improve the situation a bit all right so we got three choices here on the left is troy belt red middle is poppy red and on the right is sunrise right i believe and none of them are a very good match on either side those are both enamel so those would have worked better the middle is just a standard satin paint and the color match isn't too bad it's just the finish is very flat i was looking for something with a little more shine anyway i think the the middle one the puppy red is the winner gotta say i'm impressed i ordered this on a monday night today's thursday it came in three days and it was only twelve dollars shipping which uh is really good considering the weight now i'm just going to take a second clean off all this debris and take a closer look at what we got so i just want to double check the health of this stator you know new one and see what the values are compared to the bad stator and i'm going to start with the blue winding of course and i thought that should be around one and a half ohms and usually that's plus or minus half an ohm so 2 ohms that's good and we'll check the red and white that was 0.2 on the old stator even better on this one the main power windings were between a four and a five on the other stator same and we'll check this other winding the same so we're seeing the same numbers or better and this one i didn't really go into i didn't know what it was uh it actually supplies power to the solenoid when you shut off the generator and it appears to be just a center tapped winding we got two brown and a black and depending upon where you probe the reading was either a 0.4 or a 0.6 so there's the 0.6 and even better 0.3 so stator is good and uh before i can install it i do need to move the end housing over uh from the old one and while i'm at it might as well check the rotor we were at 57 on the old rotor and 55 on the new so good everything's good so there's just two bolts kind of holding this end plate on one of them is here it goes all the way through and has a lock nut and it's the same on the other side the pink came out pretty well and i'm just going to start throwing this thing back together starting with the engine the rotor then the stator i'm gonna have to reuse the old bolt uh this kit did not come with a new bolt or an avr or an end housing so i was kind of expecting that but uh not a big deal anyway the old bolt looks like it had some thread locker on it so i'm going to put a little bit on and as far as the torque values go i mean this is an m10 bolt and um we're about .4 inches and there's no grade marking on it so i'm going to start conservative assuming it's at least an 8.8 i can go up to about 40 foot pounds which is quite a bit most rotors i put on i only do at about 20. so i'll probably start at 20 and go from there based on how it feels okay that's 20 30 it is do so one thing to note it's really important to make sure that the stator goes in on the lip all the way around or else it's going to be lined up wrong and it's going to rub against the rotor now these bolts are pretty small generally they should be between 60 and 80 inch pounds so i'm going to start on the low side and go from there okay so the most important part pull the engine over with the spark plug out make sure you don't hear any scraping from that stator you know if you do hear scraping or even worse if you can't pull the engine over then the alignment's off and you're going to kill a generator head pretty quickly so very important that you check this okay and that sounds good you can also pull it slowly to quiet the top end noise and it sounds good i don't hear any scraping from there so i think we're good so i'm just gonna finish up the electrical and probably cut at that point since you've seen me do the rest and bring it back out for a quick test okay and luckily the colors are the same as on the previous stator so the order was white gray red black and obviously you don't want to do this wrong i think the worst thing you could do is to connect a single winding to itself and you see here this white common wire will come on up the first two terminals so if you were to put these two wires which are the same winding on the first two and then hook up this white you would create a dead short do this is the avr i pulled out and there's a couple things wrong with it oh i guess really only one main one is that you know someone's been in here and spliced wires together and you know potentially that could have caused a failure but this also isn't is not the original avr this one was made in november 2017 and this generator is definitely older than that so someone replaced this at some time and it's not the oem one so this is you know not the one that was meant for this generator i'm sure it would work fine but given we had a failure on the winding that supplies power to this you know i don't want to risk using the same one so i do have another one it's exactly the one that's supposed to be on this machine and i believe it's good so i'm gonna give this one a try okay red wire goes on the left and this is dc so polarity does matter and you only want to snug these up they strip out really easily okay electrically we're all good i guess the only issue is that we're originally zip ties holding this wire to this bolt and this one i think to this bolt and uh they're kind of specialty the way they were designed which we're not going to be able to do so i'm just going to zip tie these two together and then down here um not quite sure i'll have to figure some way maybe just securing it to that post like that the rest you've already seen me do so i'm going to cut it here just reinstall the exhaust spark plug you know this tin up here and i'll bring it outside we'll give it a try the engine speed is low and the too voltage think we're out of gas okay that was a quick run i ran out of gas pretty quick but the good news is the power came on the hertz were a bit low and so is the voltage so um in order to fix the voltage problem i am going to have to open up the generator end again and just turn that potentiometer up a few turns and for the engine it's just increasing the spring tension so i'm gonna do that now with the spring tension and also give that potentiometer a turn maybe a half turn start it back up and see what we are okay you do want to do this with the generator off um it's a little dangerous to be in here while it's running anyway this is the potentiometer on this one i'm going to turn it in half a turn i think we're at 105 volts so let's see what a half a turn does okay half a turn then as far as the engine speed goes i cracked this nut loose right here and this will let me turn the screw in which will apply more tension here on the spring so i'm going to do this first probably get it up to 61 hertz and then work on the voltage and once we're at a good engine speed and voltage i'll do a load test and see how things look 61. okay engine speed's good now we're still kind of low we only went up a volt or two so i'm gonna give that potentiometer a turn and a half and start it again okay so it looks like every turn is about two volts um i've had some where i do it a quarter turn and it jumps 20 volts so i'm not really sure what the difference is anyway i'm at about 108 now so i'd say at least three more turns to get to 115. yeah so one turn equals about two volts with this generator so i'm about 115 now i want to be probably a little over 120 so three more turns all right we'll try it again i think i'm at a total of about eight turns um should be close to 120 now [Music] [Applause] okay great the surging's gone it can handle 3000 watts no problem at all of course the new generator head was installed properly wired properly and we're getting the power that i would expect so this thing's looking pretty good you know the only thing worth noting is that that auto choke off feature um it's not really holding the choke off in fact the engine is vibrating the choke so that it is partially on with that said the engine runs fine either way i don't think it's choking it much but i'll dig into that a bit um there's a few things i need to deal with one is the breather hose the one that came on it is um pretty bad shape i did order a replacement part but as you can see it doesn't exactly match and it's just too short and doesn't have a bend in it so i need to find figure that out also the fuel tank i ordered a new petcock because the one that was on there was pretty rusted so i'm gonna wait to get those two things sorted out and then we'll finish this thing up okay as you know this tube needs to be replaced it's badly dry rot so of course went to the homelite site found the parts number parts discontinued but i did find a seller that said they had it so i bought it and as you know this is what they said and this is useless it's not going to work so that's out i went to local auto stores no one had anything that would match this outer and inner diameter even if they did none of them would have that bend so that was a waste of time but this is a fairly common engine i believe it's made by rotto rato and i've worked on a number of other branded generators that have this engine the first one i checked was ryobi the 5500 watt and discontinued there as well honeywell discontinued and i remember the generac gp 7500e third revision same engine and uh thankfully generac supports their stuff because they had it and uh here it is so let me get this on and we'll finish this thing up perfect so here's the new petcock it's pretty easy to install you just tighten it up the old one still worked but it was severely rusted and a bit of an eyesore and i'm sure at some point was going to cause a problem so these things are cheap enough i think this one was eight or nine bucks anyway the one thing that i noticed on this one that seems a bit odd is the fact that they put a straw here and uh i'm not sure the purpose of that because the fuel level can now never go below that and the fuel filter on the bottom isn't going to do much so i'm going to admit this potentially was here just for shipping and uh the way it usually goes is just put the filter in then tighten this on this just put a little bit of gas in that tank i want to make sure that we have no issues with the fuel flow from the tank into the petcock and the carburetor i don't expect that we will but it's always good to test these things [Applause] okay good the fuel petcock's doing what it should no leaks and um you know it occurred to me i forgot to test a few things so i just tested the voltage make sure we do have 240 volts between the legs which we do and took a look at that meter so it seems to be functioning as it should anyway i think i'm done here this is a good running generator now so i hope this video helps someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 101,081

Keywords: 310227019, Armateur, Bad Stator, DPE, Fix, Generator, Homelite, How to, Install Generator Head, Install Rotor, Install Stator, Installation, No Poewer at Outlets, No Poiwer, No Power Output, Power Head, Remove Armature, Remove Rotor, Remove Stator Replacement, Rotor, Small Engine, Stator, Troubleshooting, HG5000

Id: xrX4pJWWgpo

Length: 54min 30sec (3270 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 24 2020