Generac XG10000e Not Starting / Surging - Carburetor and Governor Issues Fixed

hey guys welcome back so tonight I brought home another Generac this one is an XG 10,000 e and it's very similar to that older one I did a video out about a month ago the 10,000 EXL the XL was about 24 years old this one's quite a bit newer and there is only about 56 hours on the clock so fairly young it was listed for parts only with that said it you know the seller only mentioned that it probably needs a new carburetor to run and there was some chewed wires and I've already given this a look kind of a once-over they haven't found any chewed wires so I'm not sure if that's going to be a problem or not fuel tank looks pretty good some slight surface rust but nothing that's going to cause a run problem and overall this machine looks pretty complete and in good condition I did check the oil well it looks clean and full and this one unfortunately is a electric start only there is no recoil and the battery is getting a bit low so what I want to do is get that battery off of there and get it charging while we're dealing with the carburetor and the carburetor unfortunately it's not very accessible it's way up here on top of the engine and the only way to get to it really is to remove this side panel and get the tank out of there so it'll give you access to that carburetor so I'm gonna get you set up on a stand we'll get that battery out and get the tank out and then see what we're dealing with inside of that carb [Music] this hope batteries sitting that 12.25 volts so this has a chance of coming back most likely this is the original battery be nice if there was a date code on it but I do not see any evidence of a date okay and before sliding this out I got to get this hose out of the way this is a ventless gas cap and instead this is vented through this tube which runs down to the airbox okay so I came out really easy there is a lip here I would actually expect there to be like a rubber grommet or rubber bushing of some sort here not sure but having it that loose you know once you fill this up with gas and splash around its gonna come out the side so we might need to get a new one of those I was kind of disconnect this hose from the airbox but I can see somebody already did we got some zip ties here and it just goes down to the ground so you know that's that's not correct not the end of the world generator will run like that but there should be somewhere on that airbox where this below so we take that apart we'll just take note of where that is almost forgot got a disconnect the fuel line now with the fuel valve off this pushes through and you don't want to force it but should come out and if I disconnect this one right here that's the one going to the fuel tank that should completely free up this tank to come out [Music] [Music] it's pretty clean I've never taken one of these apart before a little bit different not quite sure what the purpose of that is it looks like it's if I had to guess again it looks like it might be somehow getting heat off of the exhaust and putting it in there but doesn't make a very good connection so I don't know if that is Factory or no that's where the fuel tank vent should be right there so I've removed you know the two bolts holding the air box onto the carb and these two holding it onto the bracket but that said it seems like there's something still holding it on so I take a closer look before exerting too much force I don't want to break this removing that bracket may not have been the best idea I think there is some governor linkage on there but if you look way in that screw I think is attached to the airbox from the bottom yeah that's gonna be a little tricky but let me see if I can get that out okay I was able to get the bolt out sorry I shut the camera off of that it was kind of putting up a bit of a fight but we are free now I think you can see here this there's a lot of stuff here in front of that bolt so not really sure how you're supposed to torque that properly when putting it back together the top ones are easy bottom ones different stories so I might have to read up on that a bit when putting it back together I don't want to mess it up but we're in so now you can't see what I'm doing over here this has a brief style connector just kind of an arm that just locks on to the choke lever unfortunately it's really on there and it's plastic there we go okay so I may have gone about this the wrong way I don't think this carburetors gonna slide out enough before it hits this governor arm you know these studs are just too long so what I decided to do instead which I already started to do was I just double noted the stud I'm gonna turn this out and do the same over here and then that should allow the carburetor to come right out kind of glossed over something earlier the there's four bolts that hold this carburetor to the intake manifold and the two bolts on the bottom were a problem when I finally got the screwdriver out here I went to crack it free it just spun right out it was already loose and this one I didn't really notice it until I went to go pull things out this screw was basically hanging out like that completely disengaged from any threads obviously and not doing anything useful as far as holding this carbon so having two out of the four bolts loose or falling out would have created a huge vacuum leak between the carb and the intake manifold and all else being good that would have caused a run condition where it wouldn't start so I kind of have a feeling that this carburetor might be in good shape based on what I found with these two bolts [Music] okay well I was wrong about the carb it's kind of a mess well that Jets clear sliding a little through but this one is clogged a bit [Music] those the emotion tubes and lastly I got to get this pin out it's kind of fighting me a bit that needle is kind of cemented in there oh there we go I think that's it so I'm just gonna wipe off this crusty stuff and put it in the ultrasonic for a bit and see if we can't get the same looking like new you you okay battery's been charging for about a day just gonna test it real quick I think it did take a charge before it was at 12.25 yeah and now it's at 13.1 so perfect the battery is good and next before I put the carburetor to the other I want to test the the fuel shutoff solenoid so I've cooked up some alligator clips I'm going to do negative two white and positive two green and this should go in so fuel solenoid is good and then lastly carburetors all done cleaned up pretty well there is some corrosion on the aluminum but it's nothing that can be done about that but all the chunks are gone and this thing is ready to be reassembled [Music] don't forget this thing back on all right I was just double-checking the orientation of this arm and when I took it off I think it was like this but when you do that it actually hits against this Idol set screw it just doesn't seem right it's it's way too close i double-checked the diagram online and they have it drawn more like this so I tend to believe that that's more correct also this governor arm spring I believe was hooked in up here could be wrong about that but that also doesn't seem right usually these Springs hook in a lot closer to where the governor arm shaft is and there's a cutout right there for it so I'm gonna put it on like this with this spring right in that hole right a rogue I think it's right all right so I was about to restart reconnecting everything that I'm noticing multiple issues here first off the throttle this is throttle plates open throttle plate closed right and every time I'd go to bolted on I'd run into a problem with that throttle with no longer move at all stop and what's happening is that on the other side of this ball is a nut which holds that on it's the nut that's hitting the intake manifold physically so that was kind of the first clue that something was wrong the second clue is that to go full-throttle this has to go up and this governor arm goes this way to go throttle plate closed or low-speed you close the throttle plate and the governor pulls back but if I put this arm governor's in slow speed and I'm a by the way if I turn the governor to what's supposed to be throttle plate opened it still is a little bit short it has no chance of opening that throttle because when you open the throttle actually you know it pulls a little bit further away so this ball is installed completely wrong the good news is that there's no way this generator could have been doing anything other than idling like this this just not enough length in this rod to even allow it the throttle plate to open so good news is the inter project over of the bad news is whoever installed this probably got quite annoyed because it either a wouldn't start or be if it did start it would run so slow it wouldn't make power and then it probably sat and the fuel went bad that's my theory anyway so let me get this situation corrected and we'll continue [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] now that the fuel is theoretically taking care of the fuel system what I'd look over this electrical system make sure there's nothing no surprises lurking so overall the wirecolor looks pretty good none of the state of ropes are burned you know I do see some spots that look a little bit dark yeah I see more like that down here but with that said the ropes show no sign of overheating so I think the stator is in good shape the rotor also looks good there's no terminals down here to test the resistance in that stator so I want to try to get a reading out of the outlets I do not know what a healthy reading is for the stator on this most generators I would say anywhere between like point one and point five is usually healthy point three is good now try the other leg in point three ohms on the other leg so that's good they're both consistent without knowing the readings if you compare the two they should be about the same and in this case they are so pretty certain the stator is in good shape lastly I do want to pup this panel off real quick I've not found any most damage so if there's nothing behind here which I don't expect there to be that I think we're all set as far as the electrical goes everything looks pretty clean in here no signs of a critter no signs of someone hacking together a bunch of wires although I'm not sure about these connectors these yellow connectors if those are factory or not but everything looks pretty clean I think we're good I'm not sure what this is but it's loose so I'm going to tighten that down and I think we'll be ready for contact gonna do two quick tests the first one I'm going to spray a little bit of a carb cleaner aka starting fluid in the carburetor and I'm gonna try starting it that if it starts you know that'll tell me I have spark compression timing and maybe we'll see that light turn on if that goes well the engine sounds good I'll actually put some gas in that fuel line and try running it a bit longer on the carburetor and see what we get okay that sounds really good the engine was slow but that is because I turned to the governor spring down so I'm going to put gas in it now and then restart it and adjust that governor speed up looks like it flooded over a little bit so I'm gonna try to start it with the choke off and see if we can get anywhere [Applause] [Applause] okay not sure what to think about it GFI will not reset on the left so that's an issue obviously it's surging it wasn't like that though when it first started so I might pop that air box back on with the filter and just try it one more time and see if that helps okay not bad the air filter helped a bit still hunting but better so I don't know necessarily the direction I want to go I mean the carburetor after cleaning was pretty spotless I'm not sure there's much else I can do to improve that situation but one of the things I was thinking is that the governor you know comes out right there that's the governor shaft and attaches to the governor farm and there's a spring attached to that governor arm there's actually four holes where that spring could go now as we know someone's been messing with all the linkages in here and they had it all wrong so I just left that spring where it was on the governor harm maybe that's in the wrong spot and the further out on the arm you come the more sensitive it is and in theory that's good but if you come too far out it'll get oversensitive and start surging for that reason alone so maybe that's what's going on so I will move that spring a little bit closer so ours the power output we have power output on both legs I tested with the meter here on both legs and it was at 122 123 this GFCI would not reset but the light was on so it was getting power so we definitely need a new one of those and lastly this is probably the most annoying thing this isn't coming out very far so when you try to move it around you get about ten feet this pops in and the handle just collapses so definitely need to replace that but overall pretty good you know the engine sounds good state arson stator makes power so can't ask for too much more than that so let me get this back to the garage we'll figure out where to go from there cut the airbox off again I'm gonna remove this plate before I do that I'm just going to take the tension off the governor spring and I've already drawn a line here to kind of indicate where it's sent right now now when I put it back together I am going to back it off a bit but that will use that as a guide these are the holes I was talking about so the spring is on the second last hole coming out and the further you go the more sensitive the response is on the throttle and in theory like I said before that's great but the further out you go you eventually hit a point where it starts hunting and surging especially at no-load so I don't know where this goes I did check online at the parts diagram and when you zoom into this level it's just too blurry but from what it looks like to me is that this spring like if you were to take these four holes and divide it in the middle looks like the spring is more on this side so I'm going to move it over one hole and try it and you know if it doesn't work too well we can always move it one more okay I get you focused in on the carburetor and the linkage so you can kind of see what's going on once we get it started as well as you can see the choke [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] so moving that spring really didn't make much of a difference it still surges you know when the engines cold it surges more when it warms up you can turn the choke off but it's still hunting and then if you put a load on it's just a 1500 watt load the surge comes back and it's pretty bad so it's a carb issue I'm gonna try cleaning this one more time but have a feeling that I might end up getting a new car for this gonna give this carb one less chance I did take it apart again cleaned it again the ultrasonic first time I probably was in there for 15 minutes this time I kept it in there for about half an hour also ran through all the holes with torch tip cleaners and wire bristle and used carb cleaner this time so if this doesn't do it I'm buying a new car [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] that is a noticeable improvement it is running without surging and with the choke off at no load with a load on it it is starting to surge a bit let me grab another heater and just try it at a 3000 watt load and see what it does [Music] I was shocked at how well this read I didn't give it much hope I thought I was gonna buy a new one of these and was really trying to avoid it it's a hundred fifty bucks just for the carb and you know of course is no guarantee that it is the carb but as it turns out it was I didn't really do a whole lot different when I cleaned it the second time and I didn't film it cuz you kind of saw what I did the first time I think the biggest thing is that the first time I only showed it going through one cycle of the ultrasonic I actually ran it a few cycles through there this time I ran it a lot more and I put a lot more degreaser in there I also used carb cleaner and just sprayed it pretty much through everything and lastly the on the throttle side above the plate there's some small holes and I used a small wire from a bristle brush and just poked it through all those holes and it did feel like there were some that were clogged potentially so not sure what it was but I'm glad it is working now it runs great when idling and as well as under load under 3000 watt load the engine speed does not change at all it doesn't miss a beat so I'm very impressed with that it's only gonna run better once the airbox is on because it'll be pulling some heat off of the exhaust putting a little more drag which means a little more fuel is gonna go into the engine so I'm gonna get the airbox back on get the fuel tank back on get a parts order in this thing does need a few miscellaneous parts like the outlet and a new locking tab at a minimum so get that stuff on order and then we can finish this thing up I found the part number for this GFCI outlet and it is available unfortunately it was listed at 75 bucks and that doesn't include tax and shipping so instead made an executive decision went down to the hardware store got a GFCI outlet for 20 bucks so that's what I'm going to use [Music] so I did run into a bit of a problem I ended up moving the good outlet from this spot and I'm gonna put it in the spot where the bad one was and the reason for that is is that I need to double up these wires on the ground in the neutral and this the neutral worked fine but on the ground the ground screw just doesn't come out enough to get two of these terminals on there so I'll use this one the new one on the outside where it's only going to have one of each wire going to it which should be fine all right that does it I'm not sure I'd recommend doing this I mean I got it to fit but the dimensions were ever so slightly different so it was a little tough to get it in here and to double up the wires that the terminals really wasn't an option which is why I had to flip-flop these but I think this will work just fine in the end the new rollover valve came in so when I give it a try this one actually feels like this material is quite a bit more rubbery whereas L and felt like hard plastics so maybe this will fit a little better oh yeah yeah that's a much tighter fit it doesn't wobble at all so haven't really shown you the problem with this button here that buttons the only thing that keeps this handle locked and when pulling this like on a smooth surface like this it actually works pretty well but the second you hit grass you get more resistance and you can't get very far before that button just goes like that so it's kind of annoying I had to say the least and I looked on gener axe website this button is not available which is kind of surprising because almost every part for this generator is available but not the button and they still sell this generator but not the button so our options are a little bit limited there I thought this was a cap and I started prying it on this side and actually broke it that's actually a plastic bushing in here which helps this handle move smoothly so I did end up buying a new bushing for that so at a minimum I'm going to replace the bushing on this side and the reason why I was prying that off because I was looking at using something like a hitch pin to put in there to hold this thing step unfortunately the bushing is fairly wide it's about this wide and then there's another metal bushing here so if I do do a hitch pin it's going to have to be somewhere closer to the middle so I do want to get this off and place the bushing and just try to figure out where to drill and this will have to be this will have to do [Music] not exactly ideals but it does the job it's pretty cold out here today it's about 18 degrees and got a bunch of heaters I want to load test this with so but before I do that I'm gonna start it let it warm up a bit and I want to make sure those outlets are functioning properly I had to remove a lot more wires than I thought probably about 12 in total so hopefully it's all connected back up properly and assuming that it is I will load test it with about 5,000 watts and see how it does [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] overall not too bad it does take a few minutes before I can turn that joke completely off but you know that's somewhat to be expected it's pretty cold out today you know it handles the load quite well I actually turned them all on full so at one point it was a 6000 watt load and I didn't skip a beat it runs very well under load I went under no load it floats a bit it hunts a bit but you know that's somewhat normal you get a big engine with pretty much no load on it it's gonna do that a bit so think I'm splitting hairs a bit this thing runs well makes a good power I think I'm done I hope this video helps someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 83,988

Rating: 4.8928347 out of 5

Keywords: 0058020, 0058022, 0E9383F, Broken Outlet, Carburetor, Carburetor GTH530 XG10, Carburetor 0E9383F, Carburetor Cleaning, Carburetor Rebuild, Fixed, Generac Generator, Generac XG10000e, Generac, GFCI Outlet Not Resetting, Governor Adjustment, Governor Linkage, Model 0058022, Outlet Replacement, Portable, Rollover Valve, Small Engine Repair, Surging, Troubleshooting, XG10000, XG10000e

Id: 6yn97TgNvTE

Length: 50min 43sec (3043 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 26 2020