Generac XG10000e No Power/No Voltage - Fixed

hey guys welcome back so today i brought home this generac xg 10000e now this is a decent machine it's powered by a generac made v-twin engine and brand new sells for over two thousand dollars you know with that said this is not new it's about three and a half years old and has quite a bit of hours you know on the clock there it's 1 56 hours so this thing was used in construction for that three three and a half years until it stopped making power so that's how i ended up with it now i only spent 200 bucks on this which is about the cost of the carburetor alone so worst case i'll make my money back in parts but hopefully i can bring this one back to a good healthy state where it makes power so i'm going to start with the basics we'll check the ohms on the main windings we'll get the power head cover off and see what's going on in there i'm going to test the ohms of the main winding through the 240 volt outlet now you can do that on any 240 volt outlet but in this case i'm going to use this one now right here there's like a tab and that indicates the ground wire so opposite of that you have neutral and then leg one and leg two so i'm going to stick one of these probes into the neutral and then one of the legs the last one i checked was around point three and that was on a good generac xg 10000e as you can see we're at point two so that's a good reading i'll try the other leg and pretty much the same so no red flags here now this is a low voltage test so it doesn't guarantee anything but if it was open lead which on my meter is indicated by a blinking one or the resistance was really high like say above point five then you might have a problem actually you do have a problem but in this case you know it's testing well doesn't mean it is well but it's not bad so let's move on to the powerhead yeah these screws are already loose so someone's already had a look i've got to say this looks really good you know the last one i opened up the last generic xg 10000 that generator only had 50 hours on it and this one actually looks better so that's good news now there are brushes down here so i'm going to pull the wires off just take note that the blue one's in front and i'm going to test the ohms through the brushes to the rotor now i don't know what the ohms reading should be on this rotor and i'm going to be testing it through the brushes so if the slip rings are dirty or the brushes are bad that's going to affect the reading but i do like to check it through the brushes because that tells me how bad are the brushes in the slip rings now go into the slip rings direct most of the generators i work on should have a value between 50 and 70 ohms and this one i don't know actually so you know hopefully it's close to that range if it's open lead or really high like over 100 ohms then we have a problem so let's see what this one comes in at yeah that's a good reading that's 37 ohms so i think the rotor is good the brushes are good stator main windings are good so things are looking pretty positive here starting to think that maybe we're just dealing with a bad avr on this generator the avr or the voltage regulator for that rotor is actually behind here not down on the generator head so i need to get these screws out and this panel will come forward a bit so i can kind of get a peek in there and see what's going on so so as you can see there's a lot going on under here we have a relay right here potentially another one down there we have a board tucked away in the back and we got this one right in front now i think this is the one in question it has a potentiometer i assume for adjusting the voltage a status light and it looks like about eight wires actually nine coming in and out of this board so i'm going to take a minute just pull up the wiring diagram and see if i can't figure out what goes where and maybe there's a testing procedure for this module did a little bit of homework and although i didn't find a service manual i did find a wiring diagram so i was correct that module is the voltage regulator and i've kind of color coded the different wires going into it and what i wanted to do next is actually just check the ohms to the dpe winding which is this pink one here and also the yellow wires are what go down to the brushes so i wanted to measure again the resistance from here to the brushes expecting 38 ohms so i went to reconnect the brushes so i could do that test and ended up pulling the brushes off for two reasons one i wanted to see how much meat was left on these and these things are in very good shape given the hours on this generator so they've probably been replaced at one point and the more concerning thing to me when reconnecting the wires is that this terminal is loose and so is that one so the fact that they're both loose i'm guessing that that's just a feature and not a flaw but the more concerning thing was before i pulled this off i checked the ohms again and i was at 120 ohms and i couldn't get back to 38 so i think the slip rings are pretty dirty and given the amount of hours i'm sure they're dirty so i'm going to try to get the camera in there just to show you the current condition of the slip rings and then i'm going to spend a minute just to clean them up and put the brushes back on and take another ohm's reading and they haven't made it very easy to access these slip rings to clean so i'm going to use a piece of scotch brite i have both spark plugs removed for i guess a safety i don't want this thing accidentally starting when i am rotating it but also it'll make it a lot easier so what my plan is here is to just take the scotch spray put it on the slip ring closest to the bearing you know just press it firmly while rotating the engine and just do that for a bit and then i'll move over to the other slip ring and do that one as well so okay get the brushes reinstalled see if the ohms are any better so almost no loss going through the brushes now and you know we were at 70 sorry 37 before and then i couldn't get even close to that it was over a hundred so yeah it could be as simple as something as this as far as why this thing won't power up but anyway i'm going to continue with the test up there and then we'll get this thing outside test it as is who knows maybe i fixed it but i kind of doubt it so okay so i want to check the the wires going to the brushes first so these two here are the ones that go to the brushes actually the blue wires go directly to the brushes this one is just a ground so if i connect one lead here to the blue and another one to ground i should see close to 8 ohms which is what we get when testing directly on the brushes and we get 8.5 so that wiring is good now what i'm most suspicious of and why this thing won't power up is probably the dpe winding which are these two right here this comes from the stator and it provides power to this voltage regulator to power up the rotor and generally it's around an ohm you know give or take half an ohm uh yeah that's the problem i think we're at 3.4 000 ohms so this is never gonna power up with that kind of a rating so i'm going to do one more check here this wire here actually goes directly to the winding in the stator this one's fused so i'm going to pull this terminal off test directly here and then the other end is on the fuse which you probably can't see right here so i'm going to pull that off pull this off and we'll check it again okay so i got one end here which was removed from the voltage regulator and i'm just going to put the other lead here on the other end of this coil and we get the same reading 3.47 thousand ohms so that that's probably it i'm a little bit surprised because that stator looks to be in pretty good shape you know i think i'm going to put this back together i want to bring it outside start it up and just check what we get for voltage at the outlets and yeah that might be it okay going to fire this thing up and just check what the ac output is [Applause] [Music] [Music] so [Music] so nothing okay well the good news is the engine sounds pretty good on the voltage side it's even less than i thought for volts it was like 0.7 volts and that's across the 240 legs and half that on the 120 so that's not good you know i was hoping at least see four volts and i did try flashing it real quick with the drill you know no response so kind of makes sense you know if the dpe winding is fried it's not going to power up on its own so i am going to disconnect the brushes and get a 12-volt battery and apply that to the brushes and see what we get on the ac side okay so this is the setup i've got two alligator clips hooked up to the brushes the yellow one's the positive one closest to us and the white is in the back and that is running through a fuse and then to the battery so when the engine's running i'm going to connect it and see if the light turns on and what comes out on the 240 volt side of things also i have another meter hooked up to the brush wires i want to see if there's any dc volts making it down to the rotor when i'm applying 12 volts manually [Applause] 204 volts and 152 volts at the brushes okay well that result was both good and bad you know the stator main windings tested good so i expected to get voltage out and so did the brushes and rotor and that's what we saw now when supplying 12 volts we got 200 volts on the 240 outlet and i assume half of that on the 120 it was enough to make the light bulb light up the surprising thing is we were getting dc output on the wires coming down to the brushes it was 150 volts which is about 12 times the 12 volts that i was putting in so if that had actually applied that much power to the rotor we'd see about 2000 volts out on the 240 and 1000 volts out on the 120 so i'm not sure what was going on with that but good results nonetheless so the next thing i'm going to do is just pull that panel off i'm going to pull the dp winding connections off of the regulator and also the sense winding i want to probe those for ac volts you know start this up again apply 12 volts and see what we get for output up there okay and here's the setup for this test we've got the dpe winding pulled out as well as the sense winding and they're both hooked up to meters we got the one here on the left is the dpe and the one in the right is the sense they're both set to ac volts and same setup with the battery and this volt meter on the 240 outlet now i've also added an amp clamp which is zeroed out mostly and i just want to see how many amps this is pulling it should only be about one and a half amps dc going into that rotor so let's get it started again we'll check all these meters and see where things are at [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so okay good one and a half amps i think pulling to the rotor that's correct now the dpe winding actually was supplying plenty of power the sense winding that was zero so i didn't expect to see that um yeah maybe yeah maybe if it can't sense anything it doesn't output power to the brushes but we did see that it was putting out 150 volts to the brushes so i think the plot thickens anyway i'm going to pause the video here do a little more homework and turn you back on in a second okay got a game plan here i don't have a service manual for this generator but i do have one for a generac guardian series and that has an extensive troubleshooting section and the principles in there can apply to many different types of generators and that manual suggests in this scenario where we have a normal amp draw from that 12 volt battery into the rotor and then we get over 60 volts out on the outlets and on the dpe but nothing on the excitation winding that really the next place to go is testing the insulation with a high voltage tester and you know i don't have a high voltage tester i only have a low voltage but that still might identify the problem now it might not and if that's the case then i'm kind of at a dead end but to do this test you have to isolate the coils so that means removing the hot wires from here removing the neutral wires for the blade one and lake two you know disconnect the dpe and isolate it and disconnect the sense and isolate it once that's done we're going to check each of those four coils to ground and if that's good we will then check each coil to the other coils to see if there's anything cross-connected due to an insulation failure so i'm going to get these wires disconnected and we'll resume with those tests guys i'm on to something and i think it's good news now i disconnected everything like i said so the main windings l1 l2 and l1 l2 on the other side on the neutral post also unplug the dpe wire from the fuse and the other dpe from the regulator as well as the sense windings and i was just going to start again just check the ohms of the dpe and i get nothing you know before i was in the thousands so by isolating the coils it definitely changed what i'm seeing here so i started poking around you know i checked ground nothing main windings nothing and then i went over here to the sense you know the first one nothing but the second one we get 1.4 ohms that's what i was expecting to see on the tpe coil so someone made a mistake here at some point this wire does not belong on the sense so what they had done was they'd put one dpe in one sense on the dpe connections and one dpe and one sense on the other and that's not going to work now if i check this other winding here which apparently is the sense and connected over actually to the dpe well it was in the dpe spot on the fuse we get a number that's very close to the main winding and that's what i would expect to see on the sense winding so i need to get this off relocate it to where it should be and flip-flop some wires and this thing might work okay so now the sense is good and so is the dpe excellent so i'm going to reconnect everything i'll test it one more time just to make sure okay everything's reconnected i'm just going to check now the sense winding which should be around 0.3 ohms and it is and the dpe winding 1.4 or 1.3 so those numbers are exactly what i would expect yeah maybe that's it it'd be nice okay it's time to place your bets is this going to work or fail and potentially in a spectacular manner but i don't think so based on what i'm seeing this has got to be better i would say more likely than not it'll make power as long as nothing got fried when it was hooked up wrong so we've got the multimeter hooked up to the 240 leg got a light just in the 120 with the kilowatt and i've got a drill just in case i got to flash the field so let's get this thing started see what happens it works nice voltage is low hertz are low too let me try to bump that up a bit so so pretty good i'm kind of shocked i mean i thought it would work but there's always that doubt it would ruin my day for sure but i had almost given up on this thing based on the test results earlier on and as you can see this thing makes power now the voltage was quite low so i had to turn this screw clockwise quite a few times got it up to 120 volts and the engine speed i need to turn up a bit the adjustments actually down here which this is in the way and this kind of broke loose a bit and fell down and of course there's a bunch of live wires here so i had to shut it down i think at this point we're pretty much done in here for now anyway i'm going to put this back on start it up and set that engine speed all right so to adjust the governor speed it's kind of buried way up here let me see if i can show you yeah you can just see it that screw right there it's actually a bolt so you got to turn that clockwise to get the engine speed up so that's what i'll do bring it up to about 61 and a half hertz and once we get a good engine speed it'll come over here i've got a 30 amp breakout cord actually brings two legs over so a total of 60 amps and we'll load it up for 6 000 watts see how the engine does so so so yeah not too bad okay it did pretty good under load you know when up to 6000 watts it settled at around 58 hertz which is a bit lower than i'd like but 6000 watts was also more than half load so it might be normal i mean usually with 3000 watts loaded on a generator i see a drop of about 2 hertz per 3 000 watts so in this case we dropped you know about three and a half hertz so i think we're in pretty good shape you know especially given where we started i mean this thing i thought was just going to be parts i mean i was ready to uh take it apart and list some stuff on ebay so i'm glad that this thing came back and given the amount of hours on the engine i think it's doing pretty good so you know about a year ago i did fix another one of these i'd only had 56 hours on the engine i'm going to double check the footage see if i captured anything as far as you know the the hertz drop under load but regardless i think we're in pretty good shape now i haven't even given this much thought as far as what what does it need because i didn't think i'd get to this point but you know i have checked pretty much everything and i don't think we need anything you know other than that new battery i put on the oil is full and clean air filter looks good plugs look good i'm probably going to get the gas out i don't know anything about it as far as its age or whether it has stabilizer and i guess the only other thing which is pretty minor we're missing stickers on each side so i might take a quick look see if those are available and um yeah i think we're just about done oh and the charging system i did check that the battery was charging and it was it was charging at like 13.5 volts which uh is decent you know it's not it's not too high and uh it's not going to burn the battery out so yeah this one is a is a survivor kind of surprised me so get this thing back to the garage and do what i can to make it as perfect as i can yeah that fuel shut off is no good it happens a lot so i'm going to replace that huh yeah i'm not sure what to make of this the gas is green some two-stroke oil is mixed in yeah i'm not sure so got about five gallons of that green stuff out and replaced it with some fresh stabilized fuel you know besides the battery that i had to replace the only other thing that really needs to be replaced is this fuel screen it's blown out here on the bottom so i've already got a new one of those on its way now when i bought this i was told it was being used the power went out and that was it they put it up for sale but clearly there's more to this story the wires were in the wrong spot the avr was adjusted improperly and that's the stator looks suspiciously new so there is definitely a story here unfortunately i don't think we're gonna ever know what that is but i'm happy that the mystery has been solved and you know this thing lives again i was fairly certain that i was going to be parting this out on ebay but i hate doing that i much would much rather fix something even if it's breaking even than parting it out and in this case you know new stator would have been 800 i already have 200 invested in it and yeah i mean maybe these do sell used for quite a bit you know a thousand dollars twelve hundred dollars but this has fifteen hundred hours on it and that's not gonna fetch that kind of money so that really wasn't an option anyway it's running well now it's doing what it should and i think i'm done so i hope this video helps someone thanks for watching what do you think put the green gas in the john deere matches

Channel: James Condon

Views: 73,484

Rating: 4.9130435 out of 5

Keywords: Generac, XG1000, XG10000e, G0058022, No Power, Generator, No Power at Outlets, Flash, Residual Magnetism, Bad AVR, Troubleshooting, Small Engine, Fixed

Id: eibIlvdHIHk

Length: 38min 24sec (2304 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 10 2020