What is my Style? French, British or Italian?

[Music] I'm a Parisian while my main miss potato is chief only from Paris I'm wearing white not right now a chief and he bespoke so I would explain to you what the Parisian style is in my opinion but be before answering to this question precisely in my about my own self let's redefine a few things when we speak of style we speak of contemporary style may I remind you that at the end of the 18th century mid 19th century in France in England people specifically the doubles at the court were dressing with a lot of you know ornamentation there were men were wearing high heels were wearing wigs it was kind of ridiculous and then there's something even you know we French we have this impression that we've been at the source of many many thing but that's one thing we must admit is that the modern style the contemporary style has been invented by a British person which is George Brunel it used to be called Beau Brummell Bowman's handsome he was the advisor of the king in England he decided to simplify all this that is to say a jacket a shirt and pant and preferably in dark cars so the suit and the style the main style that we know today is a direct emanation of what Beau Brummell invented no more high heels the shoes went down to the floor and then he was the inventor of the modern suit so we have to admit it Brunel has invented the suit as we still know it now today in 2070 of course it was British so this is why we also have to admit that the modern style of the modern men's type has his roots deeply inside England and specifically London London was Paris has always been the capital of woolens fashion but back in this year's London and worsen for many people still is the capital of men fashion or more precisely men style specifically with this famous street called Savile Row what it has a nickname we call it the Golden Mile which in on which I would say still today forty to forty-five tailors have a shop bespoke tailors this is the biggest concentration on earth of tales so the first men's style of the new era was the British stuff so let me define quickly what is the British style and then I will define what is the French style and then I will try to define the choir just wrote a big book on the subject the Italian style which is in my opinion the three major influences in the Western world at least British style easy to define the British style is all about conventions if somebody pays you a compliment or say to you oh you have a lovely suit it means that your tailor did a bad job because there's one word that is very very close to the heart of the British is understatement discretion an elegant man according to British style must not be noticed or to put it a little bit differently is the person who should be noticed not his clothes not his seat so the British are very understated the colors are frequently dark the fabric they use because of the climate it's cold it's raining a lot you know everybody knows it and the more you go north in Great Britain is really really cold and rainy so they use a lot of tweeds of heavy walls and stuff like that so this is the British time understatement this crash convention etiquette France it's all about something totally different France is the nation of odd could you so a suit made by a French tailor is a marvel of detailing it's all about sophistication it's all about the quality of the stitching a French tailor will never never let go out of it utterly a pursuit on which the stitching is not exactly perfect but the French style is not about understatement it's more about charisma the notion of a power suit we used to say that the power suit is very close to what a French suit will be with padded shoulders something very charismatic that immediately give you the presence in the chief oddity suit like that I feel invincible France sophistication Cuchillo detail almost obsession about the most tiniest detail that you see all you don't see this is the French style Italian style it's not about all this Italian sounds it's much simpler it's all about freedom Italian people there are free people they they they want to be free in the way they speak in the way they drive on the road in the way they they want to smoke in public places in the way they act globally in the colours they want to to wear of course there are many differences between the north of Italy and the house because when you go to Milan and after you go to enable this is two different worlds but nevertheless everything in Italy and the Italian style is about being at your ease in what you wear and making stylistic and bold statistics items so its freedom freedom of speech freedom of movement but also freedom as a global attitude and some time with excesses I've seen things that are impossible to wear in Paris in April for example people are wearing bold colors and very very I would say almost sometimes tacky suits because it's labeled you know or even it's Sicily so now I come back to the initial question what is how would I define my style well to be honest I respect the British caring I love these people have many many friends in in Savile Row and I really love their work but it's not exactly my taste because I find it a little bit too conventional for my lifestyle so I would define my style exactly has with the pedigree of my tailor I mean my tailor is French from an Italian roots so I would say that my style is a kind of mix between this obsessional attention given to the details to the refinement to the extreme to the quality of what we wear I love the French approach of that and French but also I really really became a big fan of the Italian style specifically seen three years I've been 3 years on the road in Italy for my last book as you know and I've been really charmed by the Italian style specifically by the Roman and the Puritans and a tower that gives you another another taste of what style should be so now I'm a kind of a fusion I'm I'm I'm mutant that I I don't give all my wardrobe to only one tailor have several trailers now around the world and I would say French with a hint of sprezzatura we speak about style but don't you speak ago but fashion no no no no no I speak about style okay there's many many quotes of people say okay style remains while fashion fails or even Oscar Wilde was saying that delicious sentence he was saying fashion is something so ugly that we have to change it every six months and that's true we have a new collection every six months and I like this approach of once and it is so ugly that we have to change it every six months but that's a French poet which is a very close to my heart that was very important in France you may not know it in the USA and in rabbit in the woods called ciao bella ciao bella was looked upon as a done de as somebody was very tormented person but who wrote some masterpieces of poetry and he was saying something about the art of being elegant or more precisely the art of the in modern and this is a concept that I really want you to understand when we speak about style and will you speak about modern style we don't speak about fashion we speak about the real definition of modernity being modern is the capacity of catching what is eternal in the transitory everything is transitory life is transitory the the the fashions are transitory the trends are transitory the real elegance the real modernity is the ability to catch inside this things that are transitory the few thing that caught each one style when you take this path it's not simply about dressing well it's a spiritual approach you are looking for something that is bigger than you and is bigger than your own life

Channel: SARTORIAL TALKS

Views: 703,262

Keywords: men's style, hugo jacomet, sonya nicholson, pg, parisian gentleman, elegance, style, dressing well, french style, european style, italian style, british style, english style, men style, stylish men, savile row, cifonelli, camps de luca, brummel, dalcuore, ciardi, Panico, Edward Sexton, Chittleborough and morgan

Id: 6vOGu_XtctY

Length: 10min 47sec (647 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 23 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/thecanadiancook]

Another easy going Sunday morning post for those looking to not do a lot. Please let me know if you would like me to keep posting these Sunday morning videos and, if so, what kind of videos you enjoy.

I do not have enough knowledge in classical menswear to fact check all his statements, anyone that knows more feel free to chime in.

[u/caschta]

Wow, that was very inspiring. Especially as someone who just started out in the menswear world. Thank you so much!

[u/mailboxaccount]

It's a mark of his deep expertise that for each of these three styles he is able to think about them from the inside and get enthusiastic about their best features and ideas. For example, with the English tailoring, which is later revealed to be his least favourite, he explains that convention is valued because it is the person who should stand out, not their clothes. Every time I've met someone like this, who can show all sides of an issue with passion and goodwill, that person has been outstanding in their field. Looking forward to seeing more.

[u/CalvinMurphy11]

He does a lot to compare western tailoring styles to one another. Does anyone have a good source for reading up on Korean or other eastern tailoring styles, and how they compare?

[u/Twoshanez]

Reminds me of Ashley Schaeffer

[u/Slyder]

Thanks for introducing me to this. Watched the shoe one, I think I'm going to eastern Europe for a few visits.

[u/nullball]

How does American style fit in? Is it just a copy of one of the ones mentioned in the video, or are there any big differences?

[u/twentytwodividedby7]

Yes, please do. Very nice to watch

[u/spalmerboy]

More of this.