Moving up the Sartorial Ladder step by step

um i'm very excited today because we're going to tackle the subject which is probably and by far actually the question we received the most a lot of questions that i would love to go on that road i would love to dress up i would love to be at my best but how do i start because people are speaking a little bit when you show up at work or at school or at college with a shirt and a tie all of a sudden it's not that easy oh we've gotten that question you're right many many times like i i would dress in classic style but honestly i don't even know where to begin so yeah you know forget it just i don't even know where to start it seems like too massive to take on so our idea was to come up with a a run-by-rung approach you did something different today explain to us what did you do because we're talking about people who want to step into classic style and people that don't know where to start i thought i would put something different on today so i just try to color pen yeah and color bar some people call it and i just wanted to do something different to put myself in the shoes of someone out there because it's a little awkward for me but i like trying new things you mean the pin color yes and it's a really kind of fun thing to do to push myself so i can relate to those people out there in a very small way who want to try something new but don't know you know how they're going to feel emotionally about and that's the subject of today's episode it's about what we call the tutorial ladder so don't write this down because it's just an invention that we did very recently we talked about the tutorial path of the tutorial journeys uh tutorial learning curve actually since a long time but the tutorial ladder is is try to answer the question dear mr jacomay there miss sonia glenn how do we do i'm a college i'm at college or i'm a student or i'm 53 and i'm never dressed up and how do i do if one of us i love what you do i'd like to give it a try i like to buy a suit i like to wear a tie but i have the impression that if i do so some people will laugh at me yes and they in fact some people these days they do make little jokes about are you going to wedding are you going to a funeral are you going to a job interview are you trying to take your boss's position there's so many and you know this is just um something that we have overcome with time and that we've learned to enjoy wearing classic style and no one says anything to us so even people that don't know us anymore maybe they look at us and think things but they are not answering no no when we travel in shoot and hold remarks yeah normally we have compliments and people say oh wow it's so agreeable to have elegant people around so if you want to start and you don't know where to start we listed a few items i think it's probably i don't know 10 12 steps once again it's just our experiment but we discussed this subject the idea is we want to put ourselves in your shoes and just kind of orient ourselves to a new beginning and tell you where we would start if we were you with all our experiences and she couldn't say better because putting ourselves in your shoes is precisely where to start but before that i would give a just a forward and an advice if you are really interested in the classic style in suit and ties in the tailoring world start if you have time by reading a few books uh read dressing demand by alan frieser you can read our books you can read this conservatorial talk on the different books that you have exactly and also for example bernard wrote so there's a few books that are very agreeable to read and i will give you the first three or four ideas that you need to understand if you want to um but the first the first step if i may say is to start if you are you know dressing casual in jeans and trainers by yourself as a first step a decent pair of leather shoes it may sound a little bit simplistic and it may sound a little bit you know easy but it can change everything because we have so many stories of people just buying if you wear jeans for example buy yourself a pair of bluchers what you call derbies right you say butcher in america there's a little bit of difference but it's not significant that's step number step one and then step number two we discuss this with many of our guests here is say okay now you always go outside with a pair of jeans and a t-shirt okay buy yourself leather shoes and then the next step should be by yourself or try normal trousers and when i say normal trousers said classic trousers yes so you can go with a chino but the chino is becoming very common try for example a beautiful flannel pair of trousers in the winter or a cotton pair of trousers in the summer with or without please but something different than a sweatpant or a jeans and pair this with a shirt and specifically a button down trim and if you have the motivation you could even make your first step into made to measure or bespoke by only ordering a pair of trousers yes and this will give you a taste for whether you like it or not and it's a great way to start and it's not going to break the bank it's just like the child and it's not going to shock your friends either at school at college or your colleagues because you just arrive you don't have a gene for once you just have a nice pair of flannel trousers you'll see you see what's going to be immediately specifically if you have a beautiful pair of shoes and then just about you know the button-down shirt which is supposedly the most casual shirt this a button down this is not a button-down shirt a bathroom done shirt is a shirt we're going to show you pictures with a button collar yes exactly a button-down collar and this is the most casual thing so you just show up like that with a beautiful pair of trousers beautiful shoes simple a button-down shirt and then maybe you put around your neck a sweater or something and immediately you are somebody else that's right that's right so first new pair of shoes second real trousers and a button-down shirt with maybe button-down collar what's next number three would be of course now you're almost ready because do this for a couple of weeks well if you can buy two or three pair of trousers and uh you can be two pairs yes because one has the rest exactly and and a few shirts also because but try this you know and see if people speak and if they speak and i bet with you you're going to have compliments you're going to have you see people once you can go over the most of the time the problems you are anticipating are in your head and not in others ahead and this is true also for when you dress well you say ah what people will say about me what you imagine they will say it's sometimes much worse than what they actually say and it's a truth is you usually you will be showered with nice remarks exactly so then you're almost ready for the big step and the big stack it's super it's to put on a jacket yes so you can start with what we call in this tutorial world a sport jacket can you define what is a sport jacket a sport jacket is just an odd jacket it doesn't match your trousers it's it's different from say a dinner jacket which is more formal or we say semi-formal it's more of a jacket that you can wear in a very versatile setting like a blazer for example and you can say a blazer is usually blue red or green with the shiny buttons whether it's or metal buttons a sport coat there's no button requirement it's just an odd jacket basically and that's easy to wear because but all of a sudden good shoes nice trousers button down shirt and a sport jacket now we start to talk yes absolutely what would what would you buy for your first sport code which yeah would you buy navy one or that's a blazer yeah you're recommending a blazer yeah i buy a brazer so remember blazer is usually blue bottle green most of the time but most everybody gets a blue one and you will have either shiny mother pearl buttons which is an indicative of a blazer you want the buttons to pop or not not literally pop or metal buttons yeah metal buttons i think is the most easy to pull off can i tell another secret of course if you want your blazer to double as a sport coat usually we wouldn't recommend it but lorenzo chiffonelli gave us this tip get the mother of pearl buttons on your your blazer and then it can also double if you have trousers that match as a suit yeah that's correct but blazer for me the blue blazer because you can match it with like for example a gray flannel pants it works perfectly well and brown i mean whatever blue i mean everything so you see there's no complication here we speak about a nice pair of shoe maybe don't start with black shoe start for with a dark brown dark brown is the most versatile not light brown dark brown shoes with a beautiful pair of flannel in grey with one pleat if you want to be a little bit more dandy-esque but or with a front flat front if you don't want but a beautiful flannel for the winter or cotton for the summer and then a button-down shirt and a blazer this is very easy and believe me you're going to receive compliment because this is all of a sudden you step in another way and you know what you're going to like the most the what the thing that they're going to like the most is how easy it is to get dressed you have two or three trials exactly um two shirts three shirts two pairs of shoes and boom boom bam i mean you're dressed so fast if you have them all available for you it's so good actually if i would have to buy two sport jacket i would do probably but that's my taste huh i would do a blazer for the winter and i would do probably a separate jacket for the summer you know these jackets which are they can look like an over shirt they're very casual but very chic at the same time with multiple pockets so it's very very in in on vogue in these days you know because it's from originally from you know the photograph you know the photographer jackets or the saffrey jacket in africa if we can chose some pictures yeah but you know what i would do i would get okay i would have a navy blue for situations where i have to dress up but i would definitely have a brown jacket because i'm not going to feel strange wearing that if i've never dressed up before i would have like a brown like some a spring summer fall jacket and then a brown sport jacket that's the i would say the step number i don't know if we are step number two or number three it doesn't really matter because you know elegance is not a destination it's a journey so you're going to have a lot of stuff let's stay let's say it was one two three now let's go to step four and very simple so you remember nice shoes flannel pants in winter a button-down shirt and your blazer now if you really want to step in a new world remove the button down replace the button-down shirt with a dress shirt yes and i'll say a button-down collar with a typical dress shirt like this one like yours this is a french color so it's a little bit larger than the italian color as a tendency of going a little bit more a little bit more open but this is my favorite french color you have an english pin color this is a little bit different color but it's sticking to my shirt exactly yours is nice because it's coming underneath yes exactly and this one is easy to wear without a tie so you can wear so you see but that's a huge difference maybe it sounds it can may sound weird to you that only well when you don't have your your color is not buttoned but it's not the same feeling all of a sudden you step into elegance and more formal wear when you just wear a dress shirt and under your blazer and you always warn everyone not to get the little short collars if you want to buy your shirt yes please please please ladies and gentlemen don't look at all this advertisement with the big brown toe in this super s tiny this is not possible you know take a real color they will go ideally under the lapel of your blazer so and start with three white shirts and maybe a few blue pale blue shirts you'll never interject something i'm just trying to imagine if i'm the person who's just starting out and i feel really awkward you know what i would do i would actually wear the shirt for a while without the jacket roll up the sleeves just to get used to the feeling and another secret if you commission a jacket or you're selecting a jacket off the rack you can look at the inner lining i'm just going to look at your inner lining yours is very formal you can get an inner lining that is less formal more casual and turn up the sleeves on the jacket i never do that but she loves to do it i like to do that just to lower the the tonality a little bit so now you progress because you have an outfit you still not totally in the thai world and but who would say something to you if you just have a beautiful blazer with beautiful pants beautiful pair of shoes and a dress shirt honestly start with let's say i said always start with white shirt well let's let's put it a little bit more precise time with uh plain solid colors at the beginning don't go too fast into stripes and stuff like that go well for me white shirts are always a good choice specifically with a blue blazer then the next step would be add ah you're waiting for it you sure i'm going to say add a tie no no no start with this start with a little pocket square this is a lit this is little thing is magical because you can continue going tireless because some people don't like to wear ties no problem i adore we adore ties but i can understand you're not used to it it's difficult you have to know how to make the notes you can feel a little bit awkward at the beginning so but a pocket square ladies and gentlemen it's just this this is this is an anchor chief okay it's just this and then you don't even have because people say how can you show us how to fold it you know how i fold it i do this and i put it in my pocket you've done that for years but this is a very low-key color the rust is really an amazing pocket square to start with but you can also do a tv fold which is just a flat white pocket square or a beige or something more subtle exactly but pocket square cost 10 bucks 20 bucks maybe 30 for the most luxurious and that ladies and gentlemen changes everything because now all of a sudden you just have a blazer a white shirt a good pair of pants beautiful shoes clean always clean the shoes and you just throw this and well you have to be prepared because this little object seems totally inoffensive but it will be noticed by the people because all of a sudden you add a little something that makes you change step out of the crowd literally is that right and that's a good way to put it yes yes just with this little you know what if you're feeling really awkward just take it out and put it in your pocket exactly it's so easy exactly so it's a very bad pocket square it's for me and it took me 15 years to understand that when i go outside without a tie which is not frequent but when it happens to me uh i always throw a pocket square you do and it's usually the rust one and one yeah this is the length and you have a lot but you keep going back to that one i have two loves of in my life my wife and my rust pocket square hey that's profound [Laughter] well that's the truth actually okay ladies and gentlemen i may have in my closet i would say hundreds of pocket square but i usually wear this one because uh well i've been saying this many many many times but rust pocket square goes with pretty much everything so now you may be ready to maybe maybe go to your first suit but you were just talking about getting rid of belts yes and not necessarily getting rid of your belt but if you're doing all these things guess what can ruin it all a contrasting color belt okay this is a catastrophe you know that because they were belt their whole life since they were a kid and they don't even realize what's happening and so the only reason i know is because i've been in this business for a decade so the if you're wearing chinos for example which are just a khaki color or a brown color and you put a black belt across the pants or the trousers you're gonna have a line cutting your body into and you won't have a free flow elegant you can say silhouette or outline and so just if you if you have to have a belt wear a belt that blends either with your trousers or blends with your shirt and wow your line is just going to flow and you're going to get a lift in terms of elegance well you just pointed something very important in my opinion that just come to my mind yes what is it because belt is one of them is a major problem for elegance no no well we have once again we have nothing against belts i never wear belts i prefer side adjusters or suspenders but i mean for the people who are not into elegance most of the time belts are a catastrophe so the next step i would say once you get the belt that sort of either goes with your trousers or your shirt the next step is try to lose the belt and there's a couple of options you already said them there's the side adjusters which are like a built-in belt they're very elegant and very very nice they're quite easy nice hardware on the sides and easier to use so you that is like a built-in belt which is awesome or if you are ready to experiment you can go with braces or suspenders yeah in my opinion just a little bit later because it immediately takes you to another level specifically when you open your blazer and people see your suspenders but this is what we love of course but it's a little bit for me a little bit later but also you can buy a flat front pair of trousers without the the belt loops yes right yes and then wear it like that it's 10 times once again if you are a belt crafter a leather good maker i'm sorry i have to apologize but for us uh it's it's it's not very elegant i mean you can go after if you are way on your way to tutorial on the tutorial part you can find beautiful if you like leather belts you can but me i'm always it's complex for you just blend the color tones and the belt's not so obvious anyway so get rid of your belts but don't but don't lose your trousers anyway that's another story you may be ready ladies and gentlemen to go to step number whatever six i think is switch to your first suit so the first suit it can be because you've been you understand the process maybe we are six months later people now used to see you with a blazer or a sports jacket it's not a shock now and a button down shirt then a dress shirt and a pocket square just go slowly and little by little you'll see that people will be used to that and one day you show up in a suit of course you have to start don't go too fast don't go directly with a pinstripe like me you know something really strong what what do you buy as a first suit single breasted well we do have a show on that but yes a single breasted blue or gray yes and i would add brown if you're really shy wow i can't help it so yes this is where you start you did a great episode on that exactly so a solid color two buttons suit the classic thing notch lapel nothing nothing spectacular but the fact that you will all of a sudden coordinate your pair of trousers with your jacket that is the same fabric makes it a suit and what i really advise you is don't go too fast you don't need to put a tie on immediately you can wear it with an open shirt a little pocket square a beautiful pair of shoes oh and a beautiful pair of socks also actually we forgot we have an episode on socks that really goes into what you're you can pick up the socks can be very interesting also very interesting more than you can imagine because people can see your socks more often than you can even believe so anyway before you go on i'm a little extreme with trying to make people feel comfortable because that's the only way when you if you feel comfortable is the only way you're going to really do this right no one wants to go out and feel awkward so i would say don't button your jacket at first keep the jacket open yeah don't even button it at all because normally the etiquette is you would keep your jacket buttoned and then when you sit down you would unbutton your jacket and then when you stand you would button your jacket back but i say be cool and calm and natural just leave the jacket in by the way in the uk the etiquette is a little bit more precise you have the right to unbutton your jacket when you are inside oh is that right and you have to be buttoned when you are outside but you know the uk people they are very tough yeah so it's inside you it's totally okay to unbutton it but if you start yeah you can be comfortable that's the whole idea and now ladies and gentlemen it might be the most difficult step to take is to put on yes you heard it a tie yes and this is where most of the time the this is the one of the most difficult steps for many many many people for different reasons listen i'm a woman and most women don't wear neckties i don't that often but i do occasionally so if i can do it you guys can do it and i feel completely comfortable yeah when i must admit i love sonja when she's wearing a tie i love her all day long but when she wears a tie i feel that there's something is such of a flair for me like marlene dietrich no 1930s 1940s which was not unusual for josephine josephine baker of course but so buy your first tie well i would um if you have a you remember you have your blazer so you don't have to go with your suit immediately try with your blazer put a regiment on tie for example that's easy you know a striped tie because solid on solid can be a little boring but it can also be fine but if you want to go with the pattern the regimental is fantastic as you start and may i add something of course so for example when i tied this tie i would normally say do the hand at first this today i tied this tie with a foreign hand and it was so minuscule that it looked ridiculous so i think you need to know two at least two forms of are two methods of tying a tie first is four in hand and second for me is half windsor you do old birdie yeah but you need to just know two methods one with a smaller knot and one that provides a little more bulk this is a half windsor although it looks like a foreign hat yes and because she just told you the truth ladies and gentlemen if you want to wear a tie you have to study how to tie your teeth so yeah this is so easy but please don't buy an automatic ties with some kind of elastic these are for kids and by a normal type so i think the good advice is regimental ties strap ties like that is very very easy to pair with a blazer it will go very well with a simple blue suit but you have to be ready this is the step where you're going to receive this remarks from your friends because the tie is less and less usual but you will see it will not last long and you will harvest a lot of compliments that's true but i have to say wearing a regimental tie is a different experience from wearing pattern ties it feels really cool to put on a regimental tie i just can't even put it into words like you feel like you are maybe a little bit prepped but a little bit suave a little more relaxed it's a little more approachable yeah the regimental tie is super cool and reptile also we call it reptile also regimental tie is very interesting because you can also wear it to louis not you you don't have to tie it really to the to the top like i do you can wear it more loose more relaxed more relaxed and it works very well also with button-down shirts right right so you do have to pay attention if you go to a vintage store and get a reptile or uh any type of tie that might belong to an institution a university a club that could be very offensive to some people so try to get more the ties that aren't associated with any kind of group i give you a little bit of education on that but you don't need to know all this if you are at this stage but it's funny to know okay the uk etiquette for regimental tie is that normally the stripe goes on your left shoulder and don't ask me why brooks brothers back in their 50s they decided and it was kind of a marketing gesture to do it on your right shoulder so normally we can spot it's rising towards your left shoulder this one rising towards the left and then brooks brothers it was rising toward the right well now we can say most of uk or european ties are rising to your left shoulder and most of american ties are raising to your right shoulder so what does the uk say well but the thing is that the the the law before the rule before was that some ties are really connected with army or corpse or um gentlemen club uh cricket clubs yes uh you know this kind of thing so be careful when you buy a tie that you don't buy something which normally is supposedly reserved for some people shopping so you have to be careful with that but just regimental thai is a great great buy then you may be ready for the next step which is now you can maybe step into another world all together which is a patterned suit so what would you advise for a patency well for pattern suit let's go with something super classic either one of two things glen plaid yeah which is uh has a rich history it's a very muted pattern yeah we call it prince of wales now which is a little bit an abusive language because prince of wales is one kind of glenn played it is um this is a very uh i guess i would say elegant choice and it's muted so you're not going to shock anybody with the pattern or you could go with the pinstripe like me today this is a tennis strike some pen stripes can be very subtle and very easy to wear and nothing that will shock anybody i agree with you glenn played so you see we're going to show you pictures of that glenn play this can it's called glen euchra they can be called prince of wales there's a lot of different kinds but the idea is is some kind of a square and lines that are intricated together it can be very strong or very muted i think there's a little houndstooth worked in there exactly it's a very interesting pattern but this is the next step and then probably a striped suit like okay the one i have is kind of strong but you can have for example blue and blue that is very interesting so that's the next step for us but you understand that if we ruined a little bit blazer sport jacket then solid suit and then only a pattern suit you have to go little by little but when you reach this stage honestly i suppose you start to be quite comfortable but for that you will have to learn a few rules and specifically how to mix patterns because when you start to wear patterns either on your suits or on your shirts and on your ties you have to learn a few rules and there are well two rules that are important to remember we've been repeating the same rule over and over again but they are very easy to remember okay the first is very easy to explain if you're wearing the same pattern for example hugo's wearing stripes and stripes he's just making sure the stripes are distanced apart differently on let's say a different scale this this stripe is looks like if i do the english system i would say that's about one inch apart from this stripe to this stripe but let's move over to the tie the tie let's widen that it's a one and a half inch apart each stripe so you have stripes but on different scales different sizes yes it's very easy small stripes on your jacket big stripes that's the next element the size of the stripes themselves can be different because it's easy to understand if i was wearing with this uh striped suit a tie with little stripes it would be almost you would need some kind of sunglasses to look at me would be too busy because this will go in in competition with that so same pattern different size that's true and for those of you who really want to push it far on our instagram uh parisian underlying gentleman and sonia glenn we have where we've been combining three stripes together and you wouldn't know it except that we told you yeah and three stripes together means three different scales it's very easy and then the reverse rule uh it's i don't like the word rule but this one really really works so it works the same for checks if you have a checked uh big big window pane text you know square window pane squares jacket you can wear a small microcheck shirt it works very well same pattern different skates and people don't even understand how it's all blending together it doesn't register that you're wearing the same but this is very important because if you start to master these few rules it's very interesting and so the reverse is also true if you want for example to wear two different patterns that is to say here i only have one pattern but if you want for example let's say you want to have a check check jacket and you want to have a polka dot tie in this case it's better to have the same scale small check small polka dots big check big polka dots it's very easy to understand so you remember same pattern different scales different patterns same scale it's so easy but this ladies and gentlemen this you can write it down it'll change everything makes it so much easier to get dressed exactly and people will not understand why you look so good so elegant so well dressed with just my with just mastering these simple rules so now are we going to the final rung of the ladder well we're almost there because well now you have two rows in front of you if you are able to pull off single breasted suits uh patterned of course blazer solid color then pattern color if you start to know how to blend the colors out there's two ways that are open for you the double breasted way or the three-piece one so it's a fork in the road the right is the double-breasted route the left is a three-piece route choose your direction but you can't do both at the same time no yeah i mean which fork you're going right or left or you can change the directions around if those right and left has meaning for you the problem with double breasted is the cut has to be perfect because otherwise it can become very quickly uh some kind of um something is really off when the double breast okay when you gain weight you just had to open it and then when you lost weight you just closed it back yeah you are telling my life johnny i am but why not yeah yeah it's true in real life yeah and i i remember doing you so to say it's totally okay to wear your double breasted open even when you stand well the truth is that i couldn't button it this is why i invented this room because at one moment in the tutorial pass you are creating your own rules because now you free when you master the patent suit when you master all that you free and you know you are now accepted around you and you know what you're going to create some you're going to create vocation you're going to inspire other people and this is something we see everywhere even in small groups of people when one person take this tutorial path it happen very often that somebody else is following so you have the double breasted on one side and then the three piece okay i like both now i can wear three-piece suit that is to say a jacket a pair of trousers these are great in three pieces a vest you say a vest in the u.s in england they say uh waistcoat or in you know and you say this and then yeah americans say best okay so but it's something that can really like the double-breasted by the way you goes in another level of the ladder you close to the top of the ladder because three piece is immediately a declaration of style yes and that waste code is going to open up your universe for being able to make different combinations and create more outfits yes and this is the beauty of the three-piece suit and three-piece suits so can be totally coordinated we call it the detour suit right is that cool yes if everything is the same fabric we call that a ditto suit which means jacket vest trousers all the same fabric and we will say in your first suit try to get a three season suit don't buy your first suit a summer suit or a winter suit because then what are you going to do when the weather changes exactly that's something i wanted to throw in but we're in the three-piece suit yeah and you said all the same fabric is a ditto suit yeah if you have an odd um waistcoat this is for me the next step on the ladder you do it you're doing it very easily so many waistcoats i've never did this in my life you never did no no i just realized it sonia she's doing this almost daily my friend lorenzo chief only is the master of that oh yes when you have this kind of um gray uh vest what's the name pearl gray well there's a dove gray and then there's a buff yellow those are for when you want to dress up you can put those two uh with a navy suit and they work with everything oh yes it's really taking it up to the next level in terms of formality or you can just buy regular vests and mix it up just for fun low-key there's a you know remember when i talked about um what women want and in terms of helm and dress yeah meaning women who like classic style it goes through all the different types yes it's an episode called what woman think actually on sartorial talks but the problem is that now our channels start to have more than 100 videos we don't do all these references yes and sometimes people they don't have the time to see all the episodes so it's sometimes good to repeat the things so ladies and gentlemen when you're at that level of course now the sky is the limit you can work with different kind of shoes different kind of models of shoes you can go through the double monks to the loafers you can play a lot with that okay the only thing is that it's very addictive and it's not super good for your bank account but these sides but it makes it really easy to get dressed like me when i get dressed what do i do i just walk in the closet and start pulling things out and seeing what goes with whatever i pulled out exactly so now when you are here the sky is the limit you can work with jewelry we can you can add accessories you can have typing tie bars jewelry lapel pins you can change your glasses and everything starts to be everything becomes a game basically and pleasure so but let's wrap up remember it's a ladder it's very it's not that complicated so first of all buy yourself a pair of shoes leather shoes yes number two buy yourself a beautiful pair of trousers yes and a shirt well maybe with a button-down color exactly i think it's keep it more low-key exactly so number three add a sport jacket or a blazer or saffron jacket something easy maybe blue if you're really willing to go tackle it and then something more muted if you if you're really awkward exactly shy then number four add a dress shirt that is to say not only the button-down color shirt but this kind of dress shirt that you can wear a tireless with your blazer a white shirt with a blazer works free light blue but make sure you don't get a stubby color exactly get a good color exactly then number five and for me this is the magic where the magic start to really operate is when you are able to throw a handkerchief a pocket square in your breast bucket that's the moment you switch to another world and it's very discreet it doesn't cost much but you become somebody if you're terrified of the pocket square look up the white tv fold and maybe that's something you can start out with yeah but literally believe me ladies and gentlemen believe me just throw a pocket square don't even think twice take your screen advice it's very easy then number six you might be ready of course get rid of bells or at least get rid of contrasted yeah a contrasting belt yeah if you love bells it's not really beautiful it's never elegant if you can blend with your trousers or your shirt or your jacket exactly so number six you may be ready now to switch to your first suit and maybe to your first tie so start with a solid color suit blue or gray and with a regimental tie this is the most this is the easiest side to pair it's fantastic it works with everything okay then you might be ready next step to go to the pattern suit there is to say either a stripe or a gland plaid you know this prince of whale very beautiful if you are not too sure of yourself start with muted patterns then you're gonna you're gonna quickly become used to it and you're gonna go it's it works like that go with your taste it's all bolder patterns because the more you progress the more you can be bold of course then of course you have to study the pattern rules you have to you know this kind of scales if you have the same pattern different scale this kind of thing which are very important and then you arrive at the road it remember the wine lovers will understand what i say and if you like tuscany wine i remember one day with our friend and photographer lyle roblin that many people know here we we did the parisian sorry though we did the italian gentleman book together and one moment we wanted to buy some wine in tuscany and i remember we arrived and i have this image in my head i didn't take a picture because sometimes mental image are more stronger and powerful than taking pictures of everything and i remember on the left it was written montepulciano and on the right it was written montalcino that is true sinus burned into my brain oh my gosh and we just all quit breathing for about five seconds because we did it no which way yeah because if you are into wine you know then the vino nobile de montepulciano is a fantastic wine but the brunello de montalcino is another fantastic wine and so my heart was divided and so when you are here satorially speaking and you have on your left the double-breasted suit or on your right the three-piece suit then it means that you can choose but you know what you're going to do like we like we did you go to montalcino first and then you drive to multiple channels to taste both wines and then from here the sky is the limit and the sartorial world is yours so i hope that with sonia we gave you a little bit of once again it's just our experience it's what we with all the mistakes we made i think so if we accumulate our tutorial experience together it's probably more than 25 years something like that so we hope you're gonna embrace and please remember one thing it has to remain a pleasure and if you want to go faster that's what we described you can jump in your suit directly and go it's all a matter of if you feel comfortable if you feel comfortable go for it don't hold back but if you feel awkward then take tiny steps till you get there where you want to be yes but all the time remember something is just a matter of you know i like this idea of to be progressive even me when i started i didn't go directly you know because you do learn more if you take one step at a time exactly and you you save yourself a lot of you know and stupid jokes and stupid the gaze of others but at one moment you will just well you attract the right case and not the wrong one that's a universal note too so we hope it was a good episode we hope you enjoyed it of course we have many many episodes on all this where we can deep dive into the blazers into the sport jacket into how to build your wardrobe but we wanted to do in one episode that was a difficult exercise how to climb the sartorial ladder we hope you enjoyed it and we give you an appointment to the next episode of tutorial talks bye bye darling bye-bye thank you thank you cheers everybody

Channel: SARTORIAL TALKS

Views: 53,199

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Id: GSzhYl34MDg

Length: 42min 56sec (2576 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 17 2021