Ways to Wear the Black Suit

[Music] ladies and gentlemen welcome to this new episode of Satori talks today we're gonna start a new series of episodes suits shirts and ties how to combine them why did we decide to do a series of episode that is to say probably four or five episodes we don't really know at the moment we record this right now as usual but to really focus on this subject why did we decide we started to focus on this very specific subject of combination between suits shirts and ties simply because you asked for it so many times in the comment section of this YouTube and once again I would like to take the opportunity to thank you for your contribution some of our videos that hundreds and hundreds of comments and it's not only a current section it becomes a real place of debate and discussion and exchange among our communities well thank you for that and don't hesitate to participate to the debate we've been asked so many times mr. Jack Kumail miss Nicholson I have a blue suit and I have some shirts and how do I pay what is your best advice for my tie what is your best advice for my how to pair my blue shirt with my with my suit so we decided once for all to tackle this subject and as we like to do it in France we're gonna start with the most difficult suit to pull off it is the black suit so if you are four of spares and gentlemen no suit on or talk for quite a while now you know that I'm not a big fan of black suits actually I'm wearing a black suit right now is the first black suit of my life is my September if I remember 127 or something like that and so many people when I wore this black suit in public for the first time I received so many messages from you saying what's happening to you you go you've been advocating so many times against the blacks you to say don't buy blacks would like it was the devil no no I've never said don't buy a black suit I've said don't buy a black suit as a first suit or even to be a little bit more precise don't buy a black suit among your first suits can you believe I've been waiting 13 years and 26 bespoke suit to ground myself the right to wear the black suit that hour in front of you today it's a chief of the rebus book the tailor of my life black suit with a super 180 Drago fabric exceptional fabric from Drago India so let's go back to the black suit because that's true we received a lot of comments of people who saw sandy I'm so sorry mr. jicama because I made the mistake because then the salesman in the suit store said to me you should buy a black suit as a first suit which is the most common mistake that the young people do when they start on their sartorial path so we have a lot of you a lot of comment coming from you saying how do I put off my back suit because you quite quickly understand it's not that easy to pull off a blue suit or a grey suit is much easier to combine and to pull up than a black suit so my purpose today is not to teach you anything you know this is not the spirit of sartorial service to give you a little bit of inspirations and guidance on how to properly pull off your black suit and I'm going to show you with my own suit the different possibilities you have because at first sight you said well black switches can be restrictive because it's black so it's kind of difficult to pair it or to combine with some accessories and ties and shirts and I want to show you that you have if you just put a little bit of thought and education in it you can actually pull it off properly so let's start with the first combination I would like to suggest to you and I like to call it and actually my wife my beloved wife Sonia I like to collect the New York way why because it you've been in New York in your life and walking the streets in Manhattan for example you will see a lot of black suits and most of the people there they were it was a white shirt and without a tie so there's an explanation for that is that as you probably know the dress codes of most of the companies in the USA have been loosened up this this last decade even bankers and lawyers are not required to wear a china mo even in some very high-level banking institution is becoming almost I would say not forbidden but not really advise to wear a tie why because the new generation of people who have money they don't wear a tie anymore so if you are a banker and you wear a tie and then you receive the next billionaire who comes in his cargo shorts and his flip flops a little bit you know you're not really tuned to your customer which is the obsession of a company so this is why we see more and more people in New York wearing black suit but with an open white shirt without a tie and I must submit it gives a little bit of a flare to a beautiful white white shirt with a black suit one thing that is unknowable though with a black suit because you can do many thing but that's two things that are totally forbidden with a black suit first never wear a black tie with a black suit why because I'm sorry for security people but you immediately look like a security people or a policeman or a person from the FBI and I'm not sure you want to look like a person from the FBI hello people from the bay I have nothing against you but the black tie with a black suit immediately speaks security or bodyguard second thing avoid two if you if you put on on top of it sunglasses it doesn't is not even a suit anymore it's become like a costume you look like many in black so avoid a black tie and to wear sunglasses with a black suit and the second thing which is absolutely unleash evil is only wear black shoes with a black shoe know about you please know why it sucks everything has to be black on your feet this is not even negotiable there is no discussion I used to say that the sartorial world is not a science it's only you know guidance but those two things are undergo seeable if you were a black tie with a black suit or if you wear brown shoes with the black shoes it's almost an offense to the people around you so let's come back to the New York style and then you have this white shirt and I show you how I put it off and you see I wear here a cineast kalki bespoke shirt from Milano from Alessandro since kalki a great shirt maker only bespoke and you can see it gives a flair why because the fact that you untie it makes it a little bit more relaxed and more I would say cosmopolitan look but you can also add a tie for example on the next example I show you now I wear a tie which is kind of a prince of whale pattern but with a red line so isn't it amazing when you just put a little bit of thought in it you understand immediately that you can wear a prince of whale with a red line and you see it works very well so it means that you see immediately with those two small example I just show you in just two outfits that you can properly pull off this black suit in a proper way let's go to the second way to properly pull off a black suit and Sonia like to to call the first way to do yoga where the coach is very kind of course I'm French so I'm gonna call the second way the Parisian way to pull off a black suit and once again it's without a tie and the example I show you now is a striped shirt black on black line a black stripe on the white shirt by Meryl it's already - a beautiful shirt that I wear without a tie and you see it works immediately of course I forgot to mention on these two example and all the examples that I presenting to you the pocket square I am wearing is always the same and there's a song from Neil Young from the early 1980s called rust never sleeps and a rusty pocket square the one I'm wearing from similar God ah the fantastic seaman Oh God our house from founded in 1787 can you believe that before the French Revolution beautiful people beautiful this is a cotton pocket square actually this is probably the pocket square I use 90% of the time because even if you have a huge collection of pocket square you will discover soon enough that you will mainly use always the same one I mean always the same three or four one and even in and believe me I have hundreds of pocket square but I mainly use and this one is probably the most versatile pocket square you can find the rest pocket square this is a small secret I think I already spoke that on our patron channel for our tax room actually we gave this little tree Russ pocket square will never fail you if you don't know what to wear in your pocket put on Russ pocket square any would work now if you want to you know upgrade live video game and go into a more let's say business attire less you know casual that you want to wear a high what I suggest to you is the outfit I'm wearing just now in front of you this is a chi finale accent of course this is a white shirt very simple shirt widow with a white color from Mario in Paris hello mark and then I have on this one cufflinks that I decided to wear these cufflinks are from Howard's in Paris hello Frederick very good people very very clever people and people with a lot of good taste and I have this incredible tire when you look at this size from tie your tie in Florence Italy it's a man called Kenji Kawai the Japanese the Japanese living in France you will discover there's a lot of Japanese living in Florence why because Florence is maybe the town where fashion was invented as my friend cosmos taught me recently but more than that it's a place where this the pizza bomber is happening every year twice a year actually and there's a lot of Japanese that are working there because Japanese in men style are extremely important people because they are probably the most elegant people on the planet people who are really interested into subject in artisanship into craftsmanship with everything behind the menswear industry the Japanese are not very fast so Kenji CagA is doing absolutely fantastic ties and the tie I wear now if you look at this time honestly you look at this tie on the tie rack and you say that's a strange tie it looks like it's kind of braised with some kind of yellowish gold these dots and the first time I saw this tie on the rugs at work how can somebody wear this is very strange tie so always remember that if you remember something from this it'll remember that never buy a tie on the tie rack because the most beautiful tie in the world can look like nothing on you you have to try it on try it on and you are gonna be it's the same for pocket square try them on you're gonna be extremely surprised sometime how good it looks Oh catastrophic it looks depending on the one you choose so this tie happened to be the most incredible tie for my black suit and look it works very well that's my business proposal beautiful white shirt with cufflinks to give a little bit more formality to your outfit and this beautiful tie in this kind of with a little bit of pattern but yet very discreet not too extravagant and you have a business attire but we can go a little bit more further than that's what I suggest to you in the next outfit I'm going to show you let's say we're gonna call this one a more formal one and in this one I use what we call the pointed extreme pointed pin color so a pink color as you can see is a color in width as a pin on each side of the color this one is a fantastic shirt bespoke shot by my role in Polonia hello bow made with the superlative aloo masala riad this is one of the finest cotton in the world this is so precious this cotton is so precious that even animal which is a Switzerland company from Sweden and one of the most important teen company people who produce fabrics for shirts that it's normally your shirt you you have a stock of threads of yarns of cotton that you weave to make the shirts but the cellular rail is 240 by 2 for people who are interested in the technical aspect is so valuable it's so expensive they can't maintain a stock of the yarn they die the the curtain buy the piece when they receive in an order they die it by the piece it's a fantastic button so that's this shirt with a pea color with the Illuma cellular royal fantastic and look at that immediately gives you like a formal immediately formal aspect I decided to pair it with two examples the first example with a Prince of Wales can of I would say black-and-white prints of well patterned by my friend and Eliza Calabrese in Napoli is another time maker that we I was about to say we worship because we very good friend she's such a sweet woman and she's a the real art ISM the real deal as we used to say Calabrese a in Napoli fantastic time maker and this is a beautiful beautiful company and but I can also pair it with my tie or tie the one by Chandrika a look it works very well with the pink rafter this is another way to pull off your black suit in a more formal way and then if you want to go really to the extra mile you want to go to the very very end of the of the sartorial curve and take a little bit of risk and being a little bit more than the S if I may say you can go to the last example I suggest you which is a tab color so a tab color as you you can't really see what I'm wearing because it's hidden behind the tire but the tab color instead of having a pin it has a sole piece a small clip which is a piece of fabric which is closing literally the color most of the time as in this example it's an English color so around its small color this one is from Porto bespoke shirt maker from Paris hello mr. Cocteau is with micro checks black and white and you're gonna say but when I saw this how can i pair a tie with that because it's complicated I don't want to put a black tie I don't want to look at like a bodyguard and so once again Kenji Hagar with this beautiful tie that I am wearing right now that I wear in this example saved my life because it works tremendously well so you see having a black suit is not easy so once again if you didn't buy your first or first five suits I strongly advise you not to invest in the black suit as your let's say first four or five suit but if you start to be a little bit more seasoned Sartorialist more seasoned you know in this tutorial in your salon learning curve because there isn't learning here you will have to make mistakes you will have to improve the same little by little making your mistake making your tries and that but at one moment it can be of course important to have a black suit only because for some occasions like funerals for example of extremely formal occasion you will need it it's not it's not very it not every day thank God you don't have funerals every day I hope so but you may need to have a black suit but I hope I showed you for the people would bid by a black suit oh love actually you have the absolute right to love black suits I hope I gave you a little bit of guidance and inspiration how to pull them off properly but more importantly give you a little bit of glimpse and how you can really make anything work as long as you like it and that's never forget that so toil ISM elegance men's style is not a science it's all about what you like it's all about pleasure and it has to remain a joy in life and pleasure the way you feel and inside your own skin literally and the way you present yourself to other I give you an appointment for the next episode of sartorial talks on this series suits shirts and ties how to combine them and in the meantime she [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause]

Channel: SARTORIAL TALKS

Views: 86,296

Keywords: Black suit, tuxedo, how to wear the black suit, how to wear black, how to wear tuxedo, how to wear formal suits, formal attire, casual black suit, new york style, parisian style, sartorial talks, men's style channel, men's style show, sartorial talk show, Hugo jacomet, sonya glyn, parisian gentleman, elegance channel, smoking jacket, casual style, dandy style, cifonelli paris, bespoke black suit, cifonelli bespoke, Howard's Paris, Marc Guyot Paris, formal suit

Id: xc-HseI0710

Length: 18min 27sec (1107 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 24 2019