The Archives - #4

[Music] hey welcome back this is another one of my archives serious videos where I show random bits out of my shop that are not worth a separate video this time I have some shaper works some millwork and some surface grinder work to show so let's get right into it I'm making replacement parts for this bright dog out of tool steel and it has two key ways in it and right now I'm set up to cut those two key slots on the shaper and the blank I prepared them on the lathe kept the captive groove and now I'm slotting those post two key ways set up your rotary table and right now I'm cutting basically the last one down to depth and I will move out check the overall dimension of the two keys against each other or get the two key ways against each other come back in correct and be done with it over here at the edge of the frame you can see a digital indicator that I used to move the table in and out and get my zero each time correct there we go now I'm down to theoretical depth of my cut we'll move the table out so I can get a caliper in there so the overall dimension here is not critical so I'm just checking it with a caliper it should be twenty-two point two five and I get twenty two point two seven so that's plenty good let's take out the slutting bar as you can see I removed the clapper box for slotting and replace it with the solid block this is way more solid than those large overhanging Armstrong style two holders this way the forces are way more directed into the RAM not can't believe vert outs down here somewhere and the bars look like this I will give you a closer look on those and this block just called Sun instead of the original clapper box so here are the bars for the slotting head [Music] these two are the same size they just have different diameter for the tool bit itself this one is eight millimeter and this one six millimeter I like the smaller one because less work to grind these and this one is smaller overall diameter and a little bit shorter for smaller bores takes an eight millimeter bit eight millimeter because I had to do a 5mm meter key slot with it and this is how the inserts looked like I grind them with a little bit of positive rake back clearance and side clearance clearance angles all about two degree ends and the cutting ray angle or positive angle here is about five degree the bits are hold in place with a m6 6 millimeter set screw from the front and they're released on the back and I do that so I can get a little bit higher up in the bore when you do slotting in small bores space is always problem you get all all the timing clearance issues and that's the reason why these are released on the back the surface here on the side is milled in the same setup as clearance surface on top so I can use this here to indicate the bar flat or perpendicular because this is milled one set up with this and drilled and reamed for the two all in one set up that way everything fits together and I can indicate everything there are many ways to Center a slotting tool in a bore and most commonly used is just to touch off with the tool and adjust side to side until you get to cut lines I showed that before in my videos but there is a my mind battery in this case I turned this aluminum plug which is a close-fitting bore of the part not this part because this is already finished board but doesn't matter in for demonstrations sake and it has a 500 a doll in here 5 millimeter diameter and I ground a little bit of a flat on top here and how this works you have to part like this in the shaper or in the the case and the rotary table and I take my my sliding tool comes from this side I touch off on left side of the dowel pin using some cigarette paper too or a feeler gauge to get the right to - to actually notice when you touch the Dahle pin then I move up over down touch off on the right side and I use a dial indicator around the travel of the machine to split this distance in half and I end up exactly on center not just eyeball like perfectly on center I think that's a way better way than eyeballing it as you can see I finally brought down and I bought a face mill for my from r45 milling machine the positive rake 75 degree heat angle face snow that uses se KT inserts eyes or inserts so these are no proprietary manufacturer inserts which I hate I have a real problem with with insert tune that uses proprietary inserts especially she when the manufacturer goes out of business izo inserts may not be as high-end does not whatever as a manufacturer inserts but you can get them at every street corner for her reasonable money for pretty much every material and with whatever geometry you want these are inserts for steel of Titan titanium nitride coating and wiper flat I didn't buy these these came with the was the face metal the seller stated that it's that it is made in Germany but I have no idea who this who does manufacturers and GUI didn't bring up anything usable I tore my Gugu food well but it works pretty darn well these inserts do not have a hole on them they you nice tee style of face more it's kind of old-school they use a wedge that gets pushed against the insert with this large screw and push us the insert in the seat and clamps it that way that's a fat kind of old school but it's positive rake and runs were nice I'm very happy with this face smell I also got a set off highly polished inserts for aluminum polish and have a round sharp manage these were exceptionally well you can take a 100 of 107 Omiya deep cut in aluminum and take a perfect chip which the steel inserts which have a cutting edge radius the quantum radius but also any cutting edge itself a radius cannot do that they have a minimum off about one to two tenth of a millimeter point one point two millimeters about that range these on the other hand take whatever you want and they need a surface finish that's just crazy good they are not as cheap as inserts for steel because they're polish and ground another step in the process more steps but they're worth the money and the stud of inserts obviously just for cutting edges that can be used and because any time I show something insert like people ask where I get many certs and what I buy these are from Hoffman tools of my group si key are twelve of Reed was the size AF of end describes shape tolerance that should break or form and HQ sent 710 disty style of carbide you and when you go to the back of the box fencers page you sentence of ten that's P steel and this stainless K is cast iron n is aluminum and plastic and s is super alloys like Hastelloy or inconel H I'm not sure might be might be hard with girls I guess but as you can see he's in search of only for aluminum and a plastic ear on the mat the surface speed of 300 2000 meters per minute with a feed of up 2.3 millimeter per tooth which is quite fast so those are the inserts building dancers I do not have a number for Steve answers that's low let's bust off the material now create the hex shape that's double check me that's just type now I can go back to start and precision engage the border Drive take out the backlash lock it that's important if you take a heavy cup the setup is not super Richard for that to reason I only take point five millimeter deep cuts because it's overhanging so widens just sticking out with a more steeper two shank which is in itself not very rigid speaking of rigid I'm using Murph's tape of four to hold the photos Faceman wouldn't make sense to hold this on nor see the two shake [Music] so I roughed it all out part is still true to the touch slightly warmer than normal but as usual with insert tooling when used about with the right speed up feet most of the heat goes in the chip and that poor chip gets all blue then take a measurement adjust my final depth of cut and cut all the flats all around of the final depth setting without changing my C height that way I get very precise result I hope and you're on the run same face mo just with different inserts through some 66 to L million running at 1,000 rpm 300 millimeter per minute and depth of cap of about one millimeter and the finish is quite decent so that works that works quite well too so I'm working on the gear shifting Keys this portion of the parts will engage in a driving dog for a gear and this once it's gets actuated by the actual shifting lever that moves the gears he's belong in our drill press with gearing original ones were worn down machined out of o2 tool steel 1.8 42 and hardened to 50 Rockwell C machine pretty much everything - sighs before hardening the o2 is very stable in heat treat even when I do this treat but I kept this dimension this rounds diameter here point two millimeters oversized because I want to grind it to final dimension in a relationship to this to this key part down here this is a machine dust to size cleaned it up by stoning and now I need to grind this diameter here but this is a core part to hold on for cylindrical grinding or harsh turbine if you want to do so the only way to hold it is basically here flat part but my I do not have a way to hold something like this on with the grinding hat for rasilikov writing so I'm making a small fixture that goes in a collet and clamps this part here and machining that right now out of aluminum you can see this is the fixture it has a 1200 meter shank which is held in a 5c collet right now and I machined a slot that is very close fit to dose to those keys here and I'll just add two set screws that I can't tighten down and hold these parts in place and then I can set everything up on the surface on the surface grinder and grind these thunders down to five six point nine nine by the way the setup is very dangerous I'm holding on this five seat block very far out on the Y's only on the edge of the block which indeed could result in a catastrophic failure because this is a this is an interesting mode of failure we're tightening the wise with part off center that means the jaw gets rocked like this and it basically primarily clamps over here that means that this whole part can very nicely rotate around this point around it's around this axis here I mean it could go that way or that way and crash horribly I'm taking very light cuts so this is not an issue but if you want to do heavy roughing the setup is an absolute no-go and the reason why I did this setup that way is because I had I had a blade square in here just set the five c block square to the world that's my that's my main grief with these five C blocks fine you cannot stand them in device because you have the Regina knot at the back I'm flipping it over to the side resting it that way and Weis clamping it down and I can drill the holes for the set screws okay I put the whole table on the surface grinder I have the indexing rotary head of my deep it grinder and the grinding wife so I have a makeshift spin fixture because my tool room spindle on building or a spin decks or spin fix throw whatever you want to call them is not done yet not even close so after you use this and this works relatively well it has a pretty good call it taper and it adds relative précised bearings in it are not too bad and I'm not building high precision parts here these are only some sliding keys using my dial test indicator to dial the parkin you can see the part held in the aluminum fixture that you buy machined earlier with a single screw plant and you see some cigarette paper here which is around 0.03 norm you think I had to use that as a shim because the screw pushes everything a little bit out of center but not very critical so but the indicator on and used used a brass copper drift to knock it around until good to run pretty pretty true both ends this is non Center and I'm ready to go ready to grind this down to seven minus 0.01 millimeter so 7 is the upper dimension and 6 9 9 is the lower by mention I have a diamond tier on the table in very old sir each object that's not very useful anymore but it's I guess it's okay to hold the diamond and it has a nice height adjustment from you know chalk and you can just slide the magnet in adult nice to have a dressing diamonds roughly at the same height as your work because you do not have to to move the head off the grinder up very far getting the spindle roughly over the part I didn't find this to be very critical as long as you're as long as you're pretty centered that's okay and do not have stops for the table that's a project that I want to build very soon stops for the table and also a non influencing lock blade lock back in a more cheap grinder and I'm not traversing over the working chest because the wheel width is a little bit larger than the part I'm grinding I can I can bring the wheel in I have a grind relief on the end of the part will move the wheel over the grind relief and here we go my right hand is turning the hand wheel and my left hand over the grinder is controlling the dominant there we go should be somewhere around seven point one millimeter though as I said somewhere around its 7.07 and little bits the nice thing when you plunge down with the wheel then feed out is that you do not break down this this leading edge of the wheel but you need to get into the grinding relief if you have a big honkin radius on this edge of the wheel I have a hard time running up to relief and you end up with a radius in front of the relief which is really annoying if you have to mount it checking the diameter hey looks pretty darn close to seven to me let's check it with a slightly better instrument six point nine nine eight I would call that good enough okay another one done move the table out open the the screw that holds the part and get it somehow out there the shim the paper shim makes it a very tight fit so Robin noretti recently showed his 5c indexer with the milled flats or ground flats on the side sinking he'll hold it and the whites of his Bridgeport and of his CNC mill and [Music] when I rebuilt this the whiting head or indexing hat I was considering that to to mill the flats because makes sense but back then I decided that I'm not going to do it because it's easy just set up on the table and it's fast the screws at blah blah blah but the older I get the lazier I get and dropping an indexing hat and devices times faster than finding the right stop some peanuts to put this thing on the table so what I did I set it up on a milling machine and I kept two flats on the side to align it and the axe direction and the line with the spindle so they just be to drop it and wife and I'm ready to go and when you look at the indicator here this reads 0.01 mm you have one hundredth of a millimeter I got bitten pretty close that's that's way and the Ramos the work I do booth tooth indexing head I used this pretty much exclusively for small work for small relatively precise parts but nothing that sticks out 100 millimeter out of the collet Chuck and now I want to show you how I did the setup to mill the flat Robin I think robbing robbed the flats on the surface grinder but my grinder is obviously not large enough so I had to do it here in the milling machine okay you see the indexer set up on an angle plate just how long with two large clamps and support about here with two screw jacks of a piece of ground rod that I haven't collet chucked up in the index and this is clamped down to just to give just to benefit off the long lever away from the set up down here clamping it down here doesn't need much force to give a lot of holding strength and I took a 16 millimeter carbide end mill and I machined the side of the casting square in this direction and in line with the spindle that means square to this face this the squareness relationship between this and this is created by the angle plate and the squareness between this surface and the surface I had to dial in actually this angle here is not super critical I just used a large square a-square not really a large square I used to like this and I used a flesh left from behind and that bumped the casting up and down until I get no like gapped up or down that's plenty good enough in this direction because this is not on Lymon surfaces just a climbing surface in this direction in this direction squareness to this it's an alignment surface though this has to be pretty good it would be better to surface bright this but my surface friend is just not large enough to handle such large pieces though I have to do it on the milling machines and careful said if you can get relatively good precision on milling machine to jig water would be nice okay this will get entertaining now I have to take down to set up flip it around so there is a high potential for comedic failure review just cranking the table to the front comes after I need the mill and mill on the backside any weight and I can get to part easier that way let's loosen the clamp this one a piece of wood down here so I do not drop the casting on the table I would prefer not to mess this up in this clamp to the preparation is anything so there we go let's clean the felt clean all the mating surfaces and get it on the other way the nice thing is now I already have one machine surface andhe on the casting that I can use as a reference surface to get things parallel and erect the parts that better do not get cast iron grid in them with paper [Applause] I guess I bored you long enough we're coming to an end 1 1 notice about the modification of the 5c indexer I really should have done this way way earlier this is so useful when you just have to pick the indexer out of the cabinet and drop it and device without having to fumble around with ye with clamping screws and tea nuts so yeah that's definitely a good thing to do and if you ever a surface grinder large enough it might be a good idea to grind those flats but having the milled I think it's it's ok so thank you all for watching and see you next time [Music] you

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 32,874

Rating: 4.9570246 out of 5

Keywords: lathe, mill, optimum mb4, indexer, 5c indexer, teilkopf, surface grinder, cylindrical grinding, lip 515

Id: NadoCuez2HQ

Length: 32min 9sec (1929 seconds)

Published: Mon Jun 11 2018