DECKEL CLONE MODIFICATIONS 1

hello everyone welcome to my shop I'm Robin today I'm going to discuss the deco clone that I purchased this is a single lip toll grinder or D bit grinder or neckl clone as they're called a very handy tool my purchasing this is a direct result of seeing Stefan gots vendor use his and also from the tool and die guy his little series of showing various aspects of operating a single up cutter I said you know what I need one of those I do lots of cutter grinding just using the surface grinder which works as long as you have enough things to the manipulate the tool you can do quite a few things on there but this is just a lot handier and just really quick so I'm going to cover just some of the aspects of why I picked this particular one and a lot of its going to cover modifications that I'm doing to it and this is just one number one of probably a series of many that I'll be doing showing improvements to this I consider this to be a pretty good Chinese kit as most things from China the quality of this in general is pretty good but as in most things there's some things that are lacking for the level that I would like it to be operating at so I'm going to be covering what those things are and this particular one is going to be on the replacement of the main shaft and increasing the stroke length of the tool feed of the main shaft and changing the entire way that the main shaft is stopped as far as rotational angle so let's dive in so as I mentioned I'd like to get a shout out to Stefan's channel and also to the tool-and-die guy I'll put links in the comments for those guys both excellent channels and also Tom Lipton sometimes when people have a lot of subscribers you kind of forget but give Tom a lift Tom Lipton a shout out I doubt there's anyone that's watching me that isn't already watching Tom but can't hurt give Tom shout out also ok this is this unit particular unit is from Shores tool I picked this for several reasons one was that it looked like it was made in the same factory as the one that Stefan is using another big item is that it has 5c collet it has a ball bearing spindle for the tool rotation and it came with all the accessories the sliding 5c collet for doing end mill flutes the tool holder for doing lathe tools and the drill grinder comes with five Kaulitz belt comes with the wrench for the wheel adapters and so yeah it comes well equipped I think that as far as overall quality the Grizzly unit which I was also considering is probably a higher quality unit because it's made in Taiwan but it would cost over double what this one does because none of the accessories are included so by the time you buy all those accessories assuming you need them you're talking being well over double the cost of this this was in the nine hundred and seventy five dollar range for the base machine and I consider I got my money's worth lots of things need to be fixed don't buy this thinking you're going to get a deco clasp unit it's it's not but in general it's made very well and all of the things that are somewhat lacking are relatively easy to fix okay you're seeing this with some of the modifications already done this is this section here this spacer is for the extended Travel this is the travel this way of the whole slide so this thing moves in this direction because either direction side to side but the hand crank out here and normally it's a knob just a knob here but I put a crank one here because now I have an inch and 7/8 of travel normally this chef doesn't poke out this far there's it only has like a half inch of travel and right here is the knob that controls the amount of how far comes in so there's a stop here that stops this to come in for your for your in feed in the into the wheel so in the process of this as I described I'll describe in the video I decided since I'm replacing this shift the shaft that came with this was undersized I'm going to move this arm out here where it's a much longer moment arm and just a place to put it and I have a place here for an indicator and that indicator is actually the exact same distance from the pivot to where the indicator touches as from the spindle axis here to here such that that's a direct readout so a thousandth there would be a thousandth here so you can actually use that for controlling feet in order to do that this this whole mechanism here before I go there all these handles have been replaced the the Chinese handles have been replaced with hip handles from Germany I just have a nicer feel and they're just they're prettier and they just make the Machine look like a million bucks and it feels like a million bucks when you're using it so over here in order to have this stop I made a hardened and ground piece of a two with three jack screws and three clamp screws and that lets me level this plate so that it's true to the travel of the shaft and then the ball on the end of this this has a silicon nitride ball pressed into the end and the reason this is so why is because the indicator comes down and hits we're on here also so that's that's why that's there and then that aluminum arm is just longer and this is kind of handy because you can actually grab this as you're operating the Machine and use this for pivoting the machine I need to put a spring spring on this too to counterbalance it but it's actually not that bad to work without without the spring so this this lock locks it and you're gonna see me redoing the bushings on this and redoing the shaft is the main things we've done on this just in general this thing's pretty pretty well made lots of things like the degree markers and stuff weren't you know or the the best the degree wheels are okay but the actual markers aren't the best so one thing I strongly suggest is getting extra wheel adapters and I'm going to typically only use super braces on here main reason being that you end up with very little abrasive dust on the machine you're you have a lot of swerve from the carbide and the steel but not actually grit from dressing the wheel all the time and the wheel breaking down so I have cbn cutoff wheel CBN face wheel CBN Odie we've I'm in cutoff wheel diamond face wheel the diamond OD wheel and then on machine I have which is my favorite is a 600 grit face wheel and that thing cuts really nice and even though in theory you're not supposed to grind steel with diamond it does a really nice job and and that's 600 grit cuts quick enough to not be ridiculous please slow on removing material but leaves a really nice finish so that's kind of my go-to if I was going to tell you to buy one wheel that would be it now one thing that's really important is make yourself a dedicated ranch for the for changing wheels if you're going to do this so this is a an m8 bolt which is the threads of the puller threads this push rod is because there's really nothing to if you just put an m8 bolt in there you're actually crunching up the the m6 threads that are that are the threads that are the of the bolt that holds the adapter on so this is the ranch size so so a tool change is literally just pop this loose let me get my get this out of the way pop the screw loose give it a spin it's one of the advantages of having the T wrench one of the things I did here is put a hardened washer on the screw that saves a lot of wear and tear it goes out and bears on the full diameter so it doesn't chew up and get nasty and in the wheel adapter and then you just thread in your puller I mean most people you know know about this and it pops the wheel off and there you go you're ready to rip and you can just quickly I mean a matter of less than 30 seconds you've changed from one wheel to another for cutting off or OD grinding or whatever so works really well clean your taper stick back on use the other end of your wrench come back in spin this back in and these wheel adapters are not listed on shorris site but if you actually talk to somebody and say hey I want to buy some of this wheel adapter I think there are there were some ridiculously no low manomaya they were below $30 a piece I was thinking oh I'm gonna have to make some you know set up the tormach and you know run a bunch of them and for what they cost from Shara's and they're relatively nicely made just wasn't worth messing with this is the case hardened shafting got a cbn homemade cbn groove tool and I'm going to just cut through the hard case here now I'm use regular partying tool to go through [Music] Center Heights a little high if you notice by that [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] now come in with my regular party tool now I'm down below the case [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] here's the finish on the hardened linear shifting which is Center its ground and you can see the lead spiral that that's the spiral there of how it actually feeds through the centerless wheels so this is not as bad as it looks this the reason this has this look is because of the rubbing the mating cast iron piece on there and basically burnishing the inside of the cast iron piece but I want to get rid of this surface finish so that because this surface finish is going to carry grit and things through so the smoother this is the better it will slide in the bushings and the less the better the wipers will work on squeegeeing off any dirt so then we're going to take the lap which we have here this is just a chunk of aluminum I've drilled through and board and the band saw it through and then I just used the edge of the bandsaw to put these linear grooves in and those screws are just to give place for lubrication to form to hang and the slurry to hang so we'll probably just lap this with some 6 micron I need to put any pressure on it I'm just going to put it adjustable tool makers clamp on here parallel clamp to put the cutting pressure on so now we're laughing with the six of micron using a little wd-40 here for our lubricant gentle pressure here I'm just after uniformity and getting rid of the surface finish from this centerless grind I'm still seeing some spirals here from the from the saris grinder so probably put a little more slurry on here and give this a continue on this just a tad more pressure nice smooth drag here that's 1 micron I just put it on a head put on six in the beginning then take a look here and see what's going on it's not gonna take long to get this down to where that spiral from the grinders going so I'm checking here see what it looks like did you see on camera but that's that's still there so I'm going to lap some more on this and we'll come back here's the finish after lapping and using some 15 micron diamond film and then some 6 micron diamond film and yeah pretty pretty nice finish on there you might be thinking like and you're really gone off the deep end here with this finish on the ship you have to remember that on this single lip cutter grinder this is this is the lathe bed this is the heart of the whole machine the smoothness that this rotates how snug it fits the bushings how well things clamp to it how long it lasts by not having any ore has a very very minimal surface roughness that grit and things can pass under the seals all those things add up to this thing performing immensely better and might have been maybe 45 minutes work of lapping and and then the diamond fill so the lapping created the geometry got it nice and cylindrical it wasn't it wasn't that it wasn't cylindrical hope he basically got the roundness in the size really good by using the lap and then once we did that then we moved to the Diamond film just using wd-40 in a diamond film to get the surface finish this is the main block the clamps to the main shaft of the grinder and these were for a rings that actually didn't contact very well and an o-ring doesn't scrape and squeegee off grid the grid can climb under the ovary pretty well so I bought some square cutter rings from McMaster and I'm going to read machine this groove to leave a little compression if I left this just as square it would have to be very drag you'd be hard to move sideways so after i machined the groove for these I'm going to bevel the inside edge of these with a grinding wheel to be like a knife edge so that we just get a scraper contact where it's squeegees off the grit on the rails before it has a chance to get inside so here's a piece of the hardened shifting we have leftover I've added this screw pinch screw here this is the screw that actually clamps it normally I've added a m4 screw here that I used to adjust it so that when you plant and unclamp you get a crisp action because this has been closed to be just lightly dragging so you're clamping action as always just click like very very quick grabbing so I'm going to use this just to go in and groove open this groove up and mentions we need [Music] [Music] [Music] all I have this groov tool set up with all the offsets and everything through a ancient quarter college soft collet that I've made and grabbed a concentric corn stock and made this ring with the groove for the seal and this is to go on the outside of the casting it glued on the outside the casting because they were the chef's was never intended to stick out this side it didn't have a seal on it anyhow but since this is going to go in and out post great for seal on this outside edge also there's the fixture that I'm using to put the bevel of the seals this is just a little bit smaller than the seal it's got a shoulder back there and I'm gonna hold the dremel tool here on an angle with a coarsely dressed wheel and just grind away until I get the bevel in there so I'll just do a little bit just a little bit left there I'll go until I have a true night and it will be done there's the white for seal you can see how the bevel leaves a knife edge so that there's very little contact area and they can deform and not come not get too tight on the shaft so this will squeeze you off the grip very nicely here's the play in the tail with the new shift that's been lapped the original shaft was like mm under over mm under so this is still a huge improvement but that's a good what almost 7/10 play there so I'm going to Mowgli's the bushing where I inject the Mowgli's epoxy way lining compound into the bore to get a perfect fit there's the 25 millimeter bore original cast iron boar that hole is the where the locking pad goes in to hold the main shaft in place when you are locking its position I ran a one-inch tap through there just to get those grooves that it's actually it's an inch 16 tap those grooves are there to have the Mowgli's get a place they actually get in and bond and have some mechanical tooth into the material and then as we can see here we've got the same thing on the far end the head end and I've got my shaft which is all lap polished as you saw before and it has a layer of mold release on it so now I'm going to prep these holes decrease them and I'm going to use the original hole that was in these for their oil a little oil buttons going to replace those with actual grease fitting it's more sanitary and grit resistant and also allows me to use a high-pressure a gun using a Molly molybdenum grease in here since it's a very close fit so same thing I'm going to use that hole as an actual injection port I'm going to line the holes first wet the inside with the Mowgli's so that it's definitely in and filled everywhere and then I will also pressurize put some Mowgli's down in the in the oil fill holes put a pin in there and use that pin as a piston to push Mowgli's in there to extrude out the ends to know that I've got a good fit and then we'll let that cure there's enough iron contacting on the one edge of each of the ends one end of each of the bores to align the pin hold it roughly in place and then in between I've taken a carbide burr and gone in and actually opened up a little bit so there actually will be a film of Mowgli's all the way around and a few places where maybe iron will touch but that's that's not the end of the world the iron spine touching that hardened chef I've got the bores wetted with the Mowgli's at the other end here we've got the same same thing going on that's just to make sure that we've got a good intimate contact with the metal and then as we inject we're just pushing things around we're not expecting it to climb into every nook and cranny so it's always a good idea if you can wet the surfaces beforehand there's the shaft in place I've got the Mowgli's liquid injected into the holes and dry release on the shaft so we'll just let this cure I screwed the grease fittings in I tapped the m6 or the six millimeter holes that were in there for the press in oil fittings I tapped them quarter 28 for the grease fittings and then I threaded these in with some release agent on the threads so that these form of good a good fit there one I'll have to take them out drill through the Mowgli's to form the oil get the world going all the way down to the bushing and then I'll do an oil groove in the in the Mowgli's but this will cure for a day and then we will pull the shaft out which will be a snug fit and this is the heart of our grinder everything rests on this I am changing the design of the stop on the grinder which I think will be more effective and provide a little more functionality on a single lip grinder Mowgli's has cured and getting it to break loose initially can sometimes be a little frightening I actually have a jack screw in here and pressing and I had to put enough pressure on there that I was a little concerned about the casting may be popping and that would have been a real bozo a moment when you break your casting in half because you were molding here a bearing fits so fortunately this brick broke loose with a little bit of pressure I actually load it a little bit and then smack the casting with a rubber hammer at each location to try to get it to free up so now it's just mad tight but moving so we'll get it out and then we'll just lightly dust the inside of the bushing until we get the fit we're after there's the Mowgli sand the bore after pushing the shaft out and yes that is a mirror finish replicating the mirror finish that's on the shaft if I didn't have a finish that good on that shift if I had molded this to that as ground linear shafting probably would have had disastrous results trying to get it out in order to do that kind of molding I would have had to use a much thicker wax kind of build up on the shaft actually gives some clearance within the molding process here we're checking the bow the shift has received so we've got maybe what three tents there and if you look here you'll see I've got the mark there where the highest and that is with the shaft completely in place and I'm spinning it here on the end with my wrench and I'm doing that so that I can actually as I rub these bushings out a little bit the the Moke lease that I actually pick a spot where I'm going to have this and this is basically where it was molded this only has to go through maybe ninety degrees of max or rotation so I'm going to preferentially rub this to accommodate that bow so that it's as tight as it can be for the 90 degree rotation that it needs yet have the minimum clearance let's take a look at the original main shaft system of the single loop cutter this is the main shaft that all of the entire cutting head rides on this has to move axially for in and out feed into the wheel and it also has to pivot rotationally and this piece is how they control the infeed maximum in feed position by this block and there's a screw in the casting that the screw in and out with a knob and this controls how far when you slide the whole unit into the into the wheel I rotate the whole unit into the wheel this controls the stop and then for the how this thing connects how it actually works they've got a nut body here that rides in the casting has a dog point set screw that rides in this to keep the nut from rotating so as you screw this shaft in and out held in the original East as the original forget what you see here this is the original plate basically just you know metal-on-metal FreePlay is adjusted and then they put set screws in from two sides and that's your bearing for controlling the screw this bolts to the there's these holes are added but this flange bolts directly to the casting the outside of the casting here so this basically the lead screw stays still axially and the nut moves and then the nut carries the shaft and they the way that they got this shaft connected so that it can still pivot without influencing the screw is they have a little plate here like not quite a half circle plate that goes into the groove and then this bolts on with two screws two little hex head screws that bolt in like this and bolt that together so the casting sits like this I'm gonna mimic my hands here as the the internals of the casting and leaves this distance right here between my hand leaves about me best maybe half an inch of travel well I have it an inch of travel it's not you know in my opinion is not very convenient and I might get rid of all this I can get travel to be the full distance of what's inside the casting that that in between distance between my fingers there of the representing the casting is about an inch and 7/8 so I say okay how can I redesign this and one of the things that comes to mind is well you can't get rid of the stop that's you know that's an essential part of the unit but since this shaft is pure crap and I'm ordering a piece of linear shaft and hardened linear shifting to replace it I've got material sticking out the far end of the grinder and that's actually a better place to put a longer moment arm stop that will have more resolution and a different system so now all of a sudden I'm free to do whatever I want here in the middle so we take this and we say okay what are we going to do now all right well I need a nut we'll come back here and we're working with the what I'm currently doing we need a nut and a screw but now like this of this can this nut can travel the entire inch and 7/8 distance so it can come from here to here and obviously the shaft is following it so in order to have it be axially axially snug be able to rotate and be pre-loaded in my nut I left a little flange there's a bearing bore on this side bearing bore on the inside with a little teeny flange in the center that flange is about the width of this spacer that I made so when I run the screw inside here and screw this to the end of the shaft I made my end shaft have a little relieved section to bear on the inner race of the bearing and a m6 tapped hole so I have to do is thread this in and now I've got something that is axial a connected but this is free to rotate so it will have no restriction on the sweep in rotation of the main shaft so that's taken care of and then by grinding this spacer a little bit thinner than this spacer and keep checking for n play I grind that spacer until when this is clamped up these bearings are actually preloaded against each other so that they're firm but not you know crushed obviously but just snugged up so that there's no play in them so that takes care of that then obviously we need the key so that we have our full length travel and then since I've got all this space and I said you know the nut since this nut was the same diameter as a shaft this is 25 millimeter the bore through the casting is straight 25 millimeters through the hole through the whole thing so I say okay I can make a nut relieve it so it's only threaded here at the end the original was 20 threads per inch so that the dial worked out in inches so I have a 3/4 20 tap so I'm using the same hardened material and you'll see on the end here that the the case only goes deep enough that I still have free machining material on the inside of this so I can actually make this where this is this is hard on the outside this is 60 Rockwell on the outside here so I ground this notch in now this in grinding that notch in when we've got this case that's got a lot of stresses in it this one out around about oh four thousandths and so I literally you're gonna laugh but I literally belt sanded the bow off of this on the two sides to get the worst of it off and then just ran the same lap that I lapped the new shaft with the actual inner shaft thing I still lapped it and polished it I ran that over that to get that rounded up so this is a nice hard hard fit so this piece then I take make my lead screw here and now this can thread on it can do the full inch and 7/8 travel and the only thing I need now is my spacer that I made for the casting such that it gives me the room for this not to protrude out before it runs into the into the into the knob in the end of the threads here ok now what of the things that I wanted to have the ability to do was to get the shaft out without having to flip the machine over and access a whole bunch of stuff from underneath so as I'm getting ready to put this together I'm saying whoa wait a minute if I my an urgent plan was you would take the four long socket heads out here so I've actually put put holes in the knob so that these bolts can go clean through so you can get this off without disturbing the bearing screw this completely out then take your Allen your wrench and go down through the hole here and loosen that to get the shaft in now shift the reason I'm want to be able to get the shaft in and out reasonably quickly is maintenance and it may be that you know what I have an attachment that I'd like to put on this thing where I literally want to pull this the main shaft out take off the traditional single lip cutter system and put on some other system that's got a completely different mechanism maybe a specialized drill grinder or maybe a you know specialized anything basically using the spindle of the machine in this axis of motion as the basis for other grinding attachments so I want this removal to be basically you know really quick so I'm getting ready to actually put this together I say wait a minute if I had this drilled clean through the shaft so that I could get to this screw without taking that off just remove the preload screw here put the wrench in you know run this all the way up to the nut all the way up tight so that this screw is actually sitting right there right in the end because that's the way it sits this is how it sits when it's all together here I wouldn't have to do anything I take one screw out from my long-handled wrench down through and be done so I said well I'm not to go bigger I'm gonna have to put a like an m8 in here to make the hole that goes through clear the clear the allen wrench flats in the cross corners of the Allen wrench and so I look at this and it well you know what if I had this one of these with like maybe what's look what's the top size of a m5 that I currently have in there well an m4 the wrench for an m4 fits in there no problem well now I need one of these it's got an m4 head for this size wrench and to be in here so I think well I could you know make one I could broach I have I have a road approach to - I mean a rotary broaching tool to put the hex in and all that and then I'd say how can I do this quicker and easier here's our screw one thing you got to remember when you're tapped through a screw like this is you're compromising the strength quite a bit and this probably would have worked fine if I just tapped it you know down enough to get a short m4 in there but by tapping it all the way through and letting an m4 run clean the full length I'm ensuring that I've got the strength of both the m6 and the m4 so for the amount of tension I'm going to put on it with this m4 the wrench for this m4 I don't have any worries about it breaking this is the best place to start a design on paper it's easy to quit get a quick idea of what's going on you can see here I've drawn my thrust washers my my my needle roller bearings my thicker one for the shoulder I've got my screw shown I got relief getting all the main concepts of the design done my spacer tube to give me room for the extended not travel from the half-inch roughly to the inch and 7/8 my bearing preload arrangement I went through a couple iterations here of getting the simplest thing no snap rings no anything just be able to get this the absolute minimum a number of parts and just have it be functional so we've got our spacer we've got our rib that's left in in here to lock both bearings by shortening this spacer I get a contact angle like this where excuse me I get a contact angle like this where this I can adjust the preload on this and then initially I was thinking I was just going to unscrew this like we said and put a wrench in here to remove the shaft when necessary for maintenance or changing to a different setup but now we've drilled a hole clean through so that I can get to our special m6 with an m4 head screw so that the ranch will reach right down through there all I've got to do is take my preload screw out at the end reach down in unscrew this bang I can take the shaft out put it back in again now sometimes you can get yourself in trouble if you stop just on paper because some of these things will look good but CAD now is an excellent place to go and start putting numbers on these things making the travels work make seeing how much room you need for all these items making sure things you've drawn out of scale when you put them in scale actually can function so yeah I know I am a big advocate of CAD but CAD can slow you down in this conceptual stage here's the new lead screw assembly the screw itself the original bearing plate which was just metal metal I got a Garlock D U bushing this is the led teflon led blind bushings very good for slow speed smooth operation poured that out press that in for that I put a recess in here for our needle bearing thrust bearing on this side too thin washers and needle bearing on this side I have one thick washer because this forms the shoulder to support the loads there so if I put a thin washer there the washer would deflect under load and just start to cup and you only get H loading of the rollers here instead of a better bearing this still isn't perfect for the loads we're putting on this it's more than sufficient so this just gets assembled with some some lube for the needle bearings and put those in fill this up with some jet Lube this is Teflon filled lithium base grease thrust washer these are hardened so this forms basically forms a needle thrust bearing put some Lube on our shaft here even though the the the car lock bushing can actually run without any lubrication because of the teflon base and the lead okay there's that washer a little stripe of grease or needle bearing fill that now since we've increased the stroke on this thing from roughly a half inch to an inch and 7/8 we are going to want to crank this the traditional single lip grinders only have about a half inch of travel and I didn't like that so I wanted longer travel because I'm going to be doing you'll see in future videos you'll be seeing where I'm doing cylindrical grinding on these using these to reduce a boring bar shank or something and I want to be able to traverse a long way without having to reek lamp also the way those thing grandeurs are designed you can't grind once you loosen your your lower rail you you lost your zero position where by having a long stroke here I can maintain a certain diameter and actually traverse across do tapers or whatever that are longer than the little tiny travel so I have the hole tapped here for my for our hand crank coming from mcmaster-carr and then I also have access holes here so that the socket head cap screws that hold this whole thing onto the base can reach through here and I could have easy disassembly this screw here is what actually does our preload and this is where we put some pressure on the on the whole assembly and grab my allen wrench this is where we actually put some preload on the whole thing and that basically gives us a situation where we're locked in and then we have to set screws the original set screws that go down in and bear on that relieved area that I had in the center there so we'll snug these so this is keeping the shaft from rotating and then we'll adjust the preload okay so now this is this is smooth this is like just firm might be a little yeah I just want a little tension there yeah this is like glass just smooth as silk and it's also rigid meaning that when I'm cranking out here this this screws not going to be doing this from bearing influence because this is rigidly held those thrust bearings are very stiff and this will be good and solid so we'll just leave this sit right here adjusted we'll tweak tweak our screws here lock up our actual grip on the shaft now and that thing's good to go yep yeah that's nice Sears would have made to hold the main nozzle just a piece of tubing that just happened to be the right fit for here gentle chamfer and blend angle here so this doesn't quite in and grab seats tight a lock line reducer to go from whatever this is half down to the smallest size 3/8 end mil down in here to give an actual shoulder for this screw to hit you put that in there with just the tape hit the screw hitting on the taper its liable to just swell out and and cause issues so I actually did the the 3/8 ml which is a little just a little bit bigger than the head of an m5 button head ground part of this off into the actual radius of the tube roughened up the tube with the belt sander used put some notches in the inside of this with a dremel wheel so that the tendency for this to want to rotate and loosen would be minimized and I used plastic welder epoxy it's forty four hundred psi epoxy really strong so that that just makes that so that this will will stay put and this will snap on to the tube they have mounted here I've drilled and tapped two holes for the threaded fittings here to go in permanent and then this down here I've got the this to snap on for the actual vacuum line like get this thing on man they're tight okay so now this can go in this can pivot it can be pulled out quickly to get out to where wherever it needs to go stick the hose in if I want to take it out quickly to do some other mount with it I can do that but we can get this in right into the business and here and suck that dust up right at the point of action done the same thing with the light we've put a 90-degree on here the the light itself isn't bad on this thing it's just that they had it on this super stiff - but there's no way you could bend it around to point in the right direction without it just springing right back so this thing's actually got really nice intense intense light and by putting the elbow here and using the larger lock line this this lets us be put around wherever you want it easily I hope you found the content useful and interesting if you did please comment share subscribe tell your friends as I do other modifications and improvements to this deck alone I will certainly be posting videos but there's no scheduled time span for that could be six months here who knows but I'll see you next time

Channel: ROBRENZ

Views: 139,201

Rating: 4.942503 out of 5

Keywords: deckel, single lip tool grinder, lapping

Id: ELTL9qTJg-o

Length: 47min 54sec (2874 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 03 2018