Lathe DRO, Way covers, Solid toolpost, Micrometer Stop

[Music] Hey welcome back to my shop the recent time I got asked quite a bit about the solid to post mount and all the covers I added to the lathe so I want to dedicate this video to some of the improvements I meet with leaf in the recent time namely the solids to post mount the cover the Dro and also the micrometer stop down here let's begin with the most obviously solid to post up here okay I made this this replacement for the compound slide after I saw one of Robin grant had these oldest older videos as hard inch without the compound slide and also I realized that the fixed position of the tool post the quick change to pose is very valuable so I found a piece of steel on my scrap bin that is just regular miles you'll I ground it to the same height as my compound slide so I don't have to change the height on my on my quick change holders and I mounted the three pound quick change to first to it and I locked it in position over here the two posts it's on a threaded bolt with a fine thread and gets pulled down with the big nut up here and it's secured against rotation by this plate with the 90 degree cut out and to get some preload in the whole system when I I put the the quick change to post on there I screwed the plate this I push the plate tight up against the tool post screwed it down remove the tool post then I took an indicator and I knock this plate with a copper drift over about two hundredth of a millimeter that direction then I put in to dowel pin and this gives a very very little preload between the plate and the tool post and locks it in place quite secure so that's my solution I didn't want to harsh drill into the three-pound tool post because there's a lot of moving parts there is one moving part but there is not much space around this large piston here or it can drill in just for you and we'll take off the a quick change to clothes and as fat does a fine threat ten by one the bolt is turned from some pre pre hardened 42 chromoly material and when I get will to post off as you saw it is on there quite tight it has a shoulder down here where the truth post can register and I have a second mounting point the plate over here and the troopers get pinched in between the the two post block is bolted down were three six millimeter screws I have one long T nut over here and one peanut over here for one screw over here is obviously a long T nut for two screws and this bolt is only screwed into the block have a tip against the hard shoulder third it times itself down quite good and I'm very happy with removing the compound I have to set up now for about one and a half or two month and I like it it's very rigid I can do things on this machine that I couldn't do before like plunging with a wide form to into pretty tough materials I have some footage of plunging and titanium and also parting off of titanium part okay this is a 5.3 millimeter wide form tool it's ground to an angle of 14 degrees here in front and we're going to plunge in straight into this piece of titanium the finished part will look something like the other and of this piece of material so we're going low speed and cutting all okay this is parting off operation and the same titanium part now it's almost finished so this should also go quite well and yeah I'm very very close to Chuck and yeah the park was running out like crazy but don't care because I checked it I rechecked it and three chachaka course is not very repeatable and backside of park gets faced off clean anyway so after Park parting off absolutely no problem one point six millimeter wide high-speed steel plate and quite low rpm so I don't earn up to cutting edge and titanium as you saw the machine with the setup is super rigid I really like it and just goes back on like this and the screw goes on top the thread engagement is a bit much on this yeah could have made it a bit shorter but too much of a thread engagement never killed anybody so far so that's the solid tool post and when I made this I knew that I'm going to add a DRL to this leaf finally so while we're at it let's talk about the linear scales so I finally brought down I bought one linear scale for the saddle or for the carriage one for the cross-slide carriage has a five thousands of the linear resolution and cross-slide has a one seventh of ammonia revolution but the Dro shows of course the diameter so it's a mm of a millimeter a resolution and as you can see I added shielding normally I have a piece of sheet metal here so chip don't fall down on that directly and they can shift brush them back there but the top side of the cross line will always unprotected and not as I have to be a linear scale here in line with the front of the cross slide I want to that ought to be protected properly so I made the chunky sheet metal cover here with the C shape it goes over the linear scale Glennis celtic back here from here to here and the read hat is mounted to the rear carriage so there the read has moved along the scale i machined or i welded and machine this bracket here out of final mission metal which flows to the back of the cross slide and that works quite well too for alignment of the head there was now no movement in it there's at the sheet metal cover that moves with me and moves with the carriage and also a sheet metal cover that goes over the complete cross right something like this we get bolt it down to spot here it surrounds my solid tool post and it forms the leverage fuel around the lower chute metal cover so when i use compressed air and a youth compression air on the life i don't blow chips directly against the exposed side of the slide way the rehab of the linear scale is also protected by the by the sheet metal cover i drilled out behold for yoy love and at the same on the sheet metal covers I have here over the that extend out from the carriage and the tailstock can still go between those covers and the Chimel covers the ride over the prison and the flap ways for the carriage sorry for the free on camera and back here is the scale for the carriage the reader has is his basic Chinese three access unit I choked by the same three axis readout that I have on my milling machine because when one craps out in a pinch I can change them over I can take this over to a mill or vice versa to get me out of pickle until a new read other right and you can see this actual diameter it goes in to thousands of a millimeter increments of course because it's not reading radius it's reading diameter P director which is the carriage I had plucked in that Y car and they were closer together I have a resolution of five thousandth of a millimeter and at epic enough for class of rogue I do yeah so that's the Dro the problem with the rust-eze readout says that the tool table is a bit stupid to use you have to press ten times the point button to get into the tool menu and that and from there you go on so that's a bit ridiculous but apart from that it worked quite well now yeah you can use different coordinate systems if you have to I can do that on a milling machine too so it can use second coordinate system see result and if I have a second setup I can use and maybe coordinate system three work here here it is do whatever I want go back to second coordinate system and I have my previous precision still stored in there these linear scales have also a reference point so how is this work on and go back to absolute and your references enter and you choose your axis and these scales have their reference position in the center so even if you turn out turn off the Machine and read up and you move your scale and you referenced it before when you come back next day your reference hit find the reference point and you can go back to yeah and you can go back to your previous proficient that's quite neat but you don't have to use that you can just use it as a basic X series out where you enter your answer here and your Y proficient up down here and go from there so that's to read up so add it obviously some covers for the way and the cross slide and what I use is leather black leather this is about two millimeters thick and I have chosen leathers because when hot chips fall on it it doesn't melt doesn't stink and doesn't be great with oil I used to done my Fifi machine back when I headed for the y-direction cover and it held up for years and it's a nice material anyway so that's why I chose leather here it's just clamped to the cover of the carriage cover here with a strip of coal roll and over here under the little spindle I have a strip of black PVC with magnets in it and I superglued the letter to the top of it this is quite strong that way and the machine can cut out for the we--we softie for that that goes just there and it wraps up somehow under under the spindle and the carriage and those on a few slaps here so chips don't fall down on my going further so chips and coolant don't get on my my ducktail way down here and also the flap in the back protect there would be one way so chips can get in so the flap covers everything up and chips and coolant just drip off the end that's the leather covers and these are the sheet metal cover that has also a few photographs of this on my website and it will put a link down in the description but I show you all this okay I pull back the leather cover and I can see my micrometer stop and that's it's pretty people ask me a lot of it but there is nothing to it it's really just simple design has a lever down here which is threaded on ganden and not this up here and this leather just pull the plate against the bottom of the we way you will see is when I take it off in a second and then not up here if you can see it it has a lot of plate and I made it that way so self aligning and it secured against rotation with a single set screw that engages a small hole in the body of stop that just have to withdraw the set screw and unscrew the sky here so take out the knot here you can see the set screws and locks it against rotation and in here is the whole of the whole which is set during ages the body of the of the topic just machine out of aluminum with the 90 degree we weigh and the plate here if secured with two doll pins against rotation like this and that have a latch on the end and it's relief in the center so it can actually clamp on the bed when this bolt tightened let all that to it and in the beginning this was bigger and I had a dial indicator in it and a hard stop but the indicator that the under the three cha-cha quite a bit of problem cause hatshepsut are always landing on it and took quite a beating so I found this need to to your micrometer had in my never finished project box and I Rhema Sheen this block said could take the micrometer hat and very happy with it quite nice have a stop that you cannot just in one hundredths of a millimeter increments yeah little bit stupid to mount this thing onto mounted you just shred threatening nut back on and have to find red fission to lock it back in place so and si I I locked them up in a proficient flow about what that 1/8 of a term on the handle go from completely free to completely locked and not moving and from here I can adjust my stop so I use this quite a bit I hope this cleared some of the questions you guys had on the front aspect that I changed on the place in the recent time my special thanks goes out to Robin Rennes happy for showing in detail the engineering he put in Janee every single thing he made for its lace though so I hope you enjoyed the short video on my life thank you all for watching and see you next time [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 62,001

Rating: 4.9737129 out of 5

Keywords: lathe, drehbank, 10x22, 250x550, hbm drehmaschine, 9x20, solid toolpost, sino, dro, digitalanzeige, glasmaßstab

Id: HfcU_cWs1Dg

Length: 21min 14sec (1274 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 19 2017