Flycutter Tool Geometry vs. Chipped Parts

hey guys chill paws in ski here in advance innovations welcome back to the shop bear with me for a second while I take care of some business on the top of this video it only be a second you know how to chance to attend to 2018 bars e summer bash out it stands in Cosby's place out in California and stand fantastic job but I can't imagine how much work in preparation and phone calls and aggravation it took to actually set that all up and make it look so seamless for all of us I had a chance to meet a lot of the guys that I've looked up to for a couple assed couple of years and will continue to look up to Channel hosts that have welcomed me into this community and made me feel quite welcome so thank you for everything thank you to all the other guys and I really enjoyed meeting and shaking all the hands of the creators and the supporters and subscribers it was truly cool and it's open to the public by the way if you are a machinist or interested in this type of fabrication that particular event you can't buy a ticket and you can attend so keep your eyes peeled for the 2019 summer bash we have no idea where it's going to be probably at the bar Z but if we're going to grow and get really big then it might have to go somewhere else this year there were a couple of other guys included in that community at the bar Z bash that were not primarily machinist and one of them well known of course Jimmy the reston really enjoyed meeting Jimmy he's an incredibly creative guy he just he's a maker this guy can just pull things out of thin air and he's very talented he's good with his hands but he wears a watch when he's doing it and that bugs me but say Jimmy watch your hands but anyway if you haven't checked out Jimmy the rest to go check him out cool channel guy makes a lot of really neat stuff in closing on the way home boarding the Southwest flight out of California to come back to Austin the pilot that was picking up the connecting flight out of Oakland was a fan had a ticket to the bash had to work couldn't make it and as luck would have it the man the pilot guy Lopes Southwest Airlines pilot guy Lopes I hope I'm saying that right guy made us feel like royalty on the way home and absolutely his level of courtesy and professionalism was off the charts so thank you very much for making us feel like celebrities anyway today's topic fly cutter basically a simple instrument single whip cutting tool and a mic and gives the best finish that you can possibly achieve with any cutting tool on a manual mill or a CNC mill I just love the flight cutter for putting that cosmetic shine on the park making it look great it is also a very good tool to indicate whether or not the head of your machine is square if you're plowing across the part of the flight cutter and you're cutting a nice circle on the front and all of a sudden here comes the back of the tool and that starts to cut too well chances are your tools and digging in now a lot of guys say well I don't have that problem because the back of the tool never cuts well maybe the side that you're leading with is the low side you know drop the cut down a little bit go back the other way check it both ways that's the only way to be sure whether or not the bottom of the tool is true anyhow the mistake that I see made more often than not by guys that just grab a fly cutter and set it up is they take a turning tool from their lathe because it's high speed steel and it fits the groove in the fly cutter and they lock it in and then they look at it loaded up and turn the machine in the appropriate direction you know that's the trick the appropriate direction for the tool to cut most lathe turning tools the majority of the ones you're going to see are right-handed tools now how do you know a tool left hand right hand right you look straight down the front of the tool and check out which side the cutting edge is on that's simple so if you have a tool bit look straight at cutting inches on the right hand side that's a write-in tool but a fly cutter takes on the left hand tool so if you put a right hand tool and a fly cutter it changes the geometry and changes the finish you sure why it's just like boring a whole other part right so you have your boring your part you want your cutting edge to be on center as your boring down it gives you the correct shear everything works fantastic if you have a fly cutter that has that channel in the bottom one face of that channel is on center with that tool and that's the hook you put the cutting edge of that tool on Center with with the holder itself and for it to hit the appropriate geometry when it cuts if you put the tool in here and here's your cutting edge well you can see what's happening now you're scraping the material off because you're technically a buff Center and you're pushing the material out of the way and you're never going to get that good clean shear that you should so when you put a tool to fly cutter make sure you put the tool in with the cutting edge against the center rid of the fly cutter very important not rocket science a lot of the comments I've had also say I am blowing the corners off of my plastic parts why does this happen why is it that the last two corners on the end of that plastic part just detonate and chip off well if there's no chamfer call-out on the top of that block you're either going to have to take another couple of cuts to get rid of that crack or you're gonna have to figure out why it's cracking and I'm going to show you why it's cracking all right there's your cut and my sharp point I really tear here coming around as you get to the end of that plastic part this geometry right here is going to translate to the cut greatly exaggerated mind you but here here's how it works as this cutter is moving across forming that particular undercut as that other cut it's over here somewhere and that tool starts to reach the end of the cut you have more surface contact right here against the face of this tool then you have support right here so now that surface becomes the dominant surface this little wet right here is no longer the dominant surface so when it cracks boom there it goes the corner of your part is going to go because this big monolith on the top just pulled it off as a matter of force there's no way around it no way around it with that tool now it's a real simple fix to avoid chipping like Delrin acrylic plastics that have a tendency to want to shatter you take that tool and you grind it the other way here's your cutting edge here's your cutting edge so as you're coming across that as you drive this tool across back part this just simply fades away until you have a nice clean surface this is the cure if you're blowing the corners off of your plastic parts it's because the tip of your tool is raked the wrong way break it the other way now can you fly cut just about anything yeah you can bear in mind that a fly cutter is a single lip tool and the RPM versus the feed rate is going to greatly affect the surface finish that you get because as 90% of the time that cutters not touching that part it made its cut it's coming around for another one while you're still cranking so you've established a greater gap between and that's gonna add to a serrated finish on your part let's say you have that tool again that blunt sharp whatever you're cutting steel you don't want a real pointy tip on a steel part because it's going to break it down real quick as you come across with this fly cutter as it goes kachunk kachunk kachunk or greatly slowed down of course you're gonna have little ridges in your part you're going to feel it it's gonna translate simple solution to a better finish on the fly cutter put a nose radius on there round it off that way as it comes across those little serrations that are formed or more like waves the surface finish is going to be incredibly different if you put a little nose radius on your tool it allows you to feel a little bit faster - you'll feel it you'll see it dial it in experiment I'm gonna walk out the machine we're going to put those two different types of tools in the part in the cutter we're gonna blow the edges off of some acrylic and I'm going to prove that that particular philosophy doesn't work and I'm going to show you a couple of different flight cars basically just diameter so what's the big deal with the diameter of a flight cutter right well if you've got a big block and a small flight cutter and you've got your tool hanging out four inches on one side it's going to oscillate it's going to be very unbalanced so in my opinion the closer you can get the body of your fly cutter to the size of the part that you're cutting the better off you're going to be for balance the machine's going to run a little quieter a little smoother and it may translate to the finish if the finish is critical steak walkout to the bench blow some parts up get it done this is my fly cutter collection I only have three and they are very similar and I made all three of them if you've never made a shop project or a shop tool for yourself fly cutter is certainly an awesome thing to make as a first time it's really a no brainer kind of project take a piece of stock turn it down put a slot at the bottom pick a size tool bit that you want to use half inch or 3/8 or whatever make sure one side of that slot is on Center and the other side is going to allow for the installation of your tool two or three set screws to suit and depending on how radical your wedge is you might want to put some type of relief cut here so that the balance of the tool the mass of the tool is equal from the center line out on both sides it's going to be unavoidable that it's going to be a little bit heavier on this side and you don't want to take too much of a relief cut off with air cuz you don't want to compromise how rigid the tool is this is a tool that I would use for plunging a radius down the side of a part since there is no bottom relief this is straight this would be for straight in applications making a radial cut like a Woodruff key or something or running a scallop down the side of a larger part to accommodate a nest of some type this little guy here I love this one this is a really stout 5/16 18 set screws it's only an inch and a half in diameter 3/4 shank but this is a brutal little tool this is extremely tough and does perform very well I like the board demonstration on the inside you can see the difference in the profile of these tools this one will give you that reverse wedge cut that is more likely to knock the corners off of a piece of material over this style right here which is the solution to that problem because the chip deteriorates as the cutter passes across and the load on the corner is greatly reduced one of the things you do want to be aware of when you grind your tool make sure that the point of contact is the highest part out as the tool rotates make sure that whatever back relief you have ground on your tool change that so you can see it there you go make sure that the contact point of your tool is the farthest point out if this back relief is not aggressive enough it's very possible that the back corner of the tool may also be influencing the cut and as you can see looking straight at the tool as described this is a left hand tool because the cutting edges on the left-hand side actually if you were to take a right hand tool it would still fit but that right hand edge would be way over here and the geometry would just be scraping the material away as opposed to a nice clean shear as it comes around I do have a chunk of acrylic loaded up in the mill we're gonna take these two tools as they sit right here I'm gonna change the cutter the holder everything in between cuts we're gonna take this one first exact same speed exact same depth of cut and hopefully this one's going to blow the corners off and prove my point it's also going to give a nastier finish because the radius on this corner is extremely small and this one will give a much nicer finish because of the deteriorating cut and a little bit larger radius on the bottom let's load them up in the mill snap some plastic if all goes well at the end of this demonstration we're gonna have some considerable chips right here I'm going to take a cut that's a little unorthodox or a little bit deeper for a fly cutter just to prove that the rake angle on the front of this is probably going to blow these corners up now to look at this top surface finish on this part with the impact coming in from the front the front edge is going to be nice and sharp this may be a little bit ratty the center in the rear here is going to be not too bad it may it may shelf burr from a push but I say these two corners here are going to crack off and ruin this part cuts going to be about a hundred and let's go about 120 deep on this and use the power feed so I can use the exact same feed and depth of cut for each pass only going to make one with this then we're going to swap it out after inspection and see what the other tool does take a look what about here [Applause] all right well I would say that yielded exactly what I wanted to see that is a catastrophic finish and that is just strictly because the angle on the tool was dominating the cut we have a terrible ratty edge on the back the leading edge is just completely detonated let's turn this piece around and see if my front edge prediction is correct I'm gonna bet that it is there you go flawless finish on the front corner because that's the sheer corner and with any cut you have a shear edge which is this edge and you have a smear edge so as it's the impact is here the forces are this way when it gets around to the back there is no support material so you can see what it did to the back of that part it absolutely cratered it and if this was a final cut or a roughing cut and you didn't have enough material you have to take the walk of shame and go tell the boss so let's put the other cutter in take exactly the same depth of cut same speed and see what kind of results we get on that this cutter is a little bit larger in diameter which is going to help somewhat but the leading edge being so drastically tilted forward and a small radius on the bottom should eliminate all that chipping and yield a much better final result make sure we are in focus which we are 120 deep 1800 RPM power feed and let's see what happens [Applause] all right well the proof is undeniable smooth bass you can see it absolutely beautiful rear corner a little bit of shelf burner not much and I would say that's probably because the tool is not as stone sharp as it could have been but you can see the difference in the front edge there is absolutely zero chipping along the front edge the back edge is just beautiful let me pull it out a little bit closer look at that I'll move the piece up because I know a lot of you guys are going to complain about the camera so bear with night and day difference and it's just strictly because of the grind on the tool speed was the same feed was the same depth that cut was the same perfect edge both sides you can't be the guys if you having trouble with your blowing of corners off your plastic parts make sure you change over to a tool profile that looks like that preferably not fuzzy put a tool profile that looks like that with the leading edge out and it should eliminate all your problems and your chips thanks for watching you

Channel: Joe Pieczynski

Views: 69,300

Rating: 4.9626713 out of 5

Keywords: joe pie, joe pieczynski, advanced innovations, advanced innovations llc, how to machine, shop tricks, shop hacks, flycutter, tool grinding, plastic parts chipping, machine shop videos, setting up a flycutter, machining plastic, chipped parts, how to stop chipping parts

Id: 3LU_tFLZCCU

Length: 18min 29sec (1109 seconds)

Published: Sat Jun 30 2018