Shoptalk #19 / 06-2019

[Music] and welcome back this is another shoptalk episode it's June 2019 and I have a very large collection of smaller video clips that I want to share with you so let's get right to it so up until recently I had this Far East imports and blasting box or blast cabinet and it kind of worked it gave you it gave me good results that I wanted but it's not made very well dust gets out of every corner of this thing and the gun is the main problem in this thing it's one of those air goes in here and the blasting media gets pulled by when true principle through this hose and this chamber here gets mixed with the air and blasts out through this ceramic nozzle here problem is you lose a lot of power a lot of yeah of your power that you would prefer to have on your workpiece by the blasting media you lose a lot by having to suck all the blasting media's through this hose and they are relatively inefficient not very well made a little bit painful I ran this cabinet with a mixture of glass beads and aluminum oxide 50 micron which gives a nice finish so this worked but I wasn't have people who did need a ton of air which my small compressor out here in the garden shed could not supply very well so I went online and looked what people buy and everybody told me to get to get this blasting cabinet from these guys lucky blast dot 80 which was an Austrian calm the small company which builds small affordable kind of affordable this is still rather expensive lasting cabinets and blasting standalone units I will come to this in a second all this all set up is about 400 euros so it's it's not really cheap it's about ten times the price of the small import last cabinet the cabinet itself is not made out of the sheet metal it's screwed together out of machined deep bond plates which is form in a PVC core in the center and aluminium sheet on both sides sandwiched together relatively sturdy but would insanely lightweight has a the top opens up but you can also lift it off completely if you want to put something larger in it have weather stripping running all the way around choose the two loves or two menu plate to work on the inside and we have the Sun on the right side here this is the actual blasting unit this just hooks to the side of the blasting cabinet and the hose goes inside the box what this is is it's a pressure the pressure vessel which contains the blasting media it contains one about one litre of blasting media turn off the air supply here with this large lever then you can open it up here you fill it up with your blasting media just put a funnel in and you take your blasting media glass beads or aluminum oxide or walnut walnut shells or whatever fill it in but the cap back on and Yuri pressurize the tank that's it that's a trick with this gun this their descent blaster has not to use your blasting pressure to suck the media through a hose into the airstream it pressurizes the container with the media and blows it out through the nozzle so it's all once it's a it's a fully contained system that's also the one drawback on this system you cannot you cannot run this continuously when this container with one liter of blasting media is empty you have to stop open it up fill it up and you're going again you can take this off this hooks to the side here can take this off and you can even use it on site if you if you want to 2d rust your whatever something that's too large for this cabinet here you can take this outside and you use it on site to do your sandblasting of course you need the proper safety equipment then face shield at least dust protection protective gloves whatever I don't do not plan to do this that's the compressor I'm running this is a 50 liter tank and I think this is something like two hundred and five liters per minute of air delivery also here you can see along with the blasting cabinet I ordered the foot switch I'm used to a foot switch on a blasting cabinet from work that's it's very nice to be able to use both hands to menu Blake your work and just use a foot to control the the blasting media itself only drawback if you have large feet this is almost a little bit too small okay this is a look I took the glass cotton the plexiglass cover off there's a look inside the chamber it's very bright the the white tea pond gives a very nice reflective surface chamber has a lily lightning facing away from the user down here so you didn't usually not have a shadow on your work gloves or decent faulty they do not stink at all compared to the ones that came with the import box and here is the blasting media this is a mix out of I think it's hundred and twenty micron glass beads and 50 micron aluminum oxide [Music] this cabinet does not have a real blasting gun it comes with a hose and it has no long yen and we just hold it like this like like a pencil it's a very simple construction it's just a push fit pneumatic connector six millimeter on this side and I think eight millimeter on this side and it has a carbide nozzle in it the carbide nozzle is suitable for glass beads the manufacturer recommends a cubic boron nitride nozzle for aluminum oxide but right now I have only the carbide nozzle here so I will just wear this out then I will get a boron nitride nozzle until then this will define one point two millimeter nozzle larger sizes are available too so that's the the low B blast smart cap down here I've got almost forgot to show this down here is a cover you undo this then you brush all your blasting media in this port here and you have this draw outside here which now contains your blasting media and that just goes back and the container up here refilling the the blasting media tank doesn't take very long and it's really simple so that's okay for me I'm running this currently at 2 bar which is something like 35 psi and that's very stable for the work I do with it I might have to add that I'm not affiliated in any way with this company I just bought this for myself paid full price no no affiliation just seriously happy customer here here are the examples I just showed in the cabinet let's start here this is PETA piece of high speed steel and has been wire cut into a shape of a small sign bar surface finish starts something like this the EDM recast skin it's very rough and it looks not very nicely and after blasting it with the aluminum oxide the glass bead mix it's really really nice finish I left eye on each of the examples I left a little bit of the original surface next next to a blast surface a piece of aluminium this belt sander finish 120 grit belt sander gives cleans it up very nicely and this is the original a tooling plate finish that you get on this this precision aluminum tooling plate when you blast this you've got a very very even finish piece of carbon steel cold rolled or cold strong down here is the cold drawn surface and up here last finish and as a phosphorus bronze bushing as you can see does this this gets also very nice finish you have to be a bit careful and soft amateurs if you're on run it at very high pressure you can't be able to embed abrasive into the materials you're blasting especially with aluminium or possibly with bronze so that's the results I get with this blasting cabinet I'm very happy with that and they will probably see the hot of blast finished parts in future also this works burn nice and deeper plastic parts if you load walnut shell ground-up walnut shells into it it's it's great for deburring plastic and giving a very even finish okay this is microscope view of high speed steel sign bar that I blasted on the right side this is blasted obviously and this one over here still has the original wire EDM surface I think this is a better example this is the brass bushing that I blasted our bronze here's two can still see the lines from from turning the bushing these are these are spaced by the feet per revolution of the tool that was done when this part was made only and when you go up here very at last at the part these lines are gone a very homogeneous surface here a little bit rougher than the turned finish turn finishes all almost very reflective and this is a little bit scuffed up that's also because I'm running the aluminum oxide in the media mix it's really a nice finish and you cannot see the individual lines of turning this diameter anymore they can scratch it Hey yeah that's that some bronze under microscope and lastly the aluminium belt sander finished down here 240 grit up here blast it this does not get rid of the grinding marks of the belt sander these are too large you would have to blast this for considerable time preferably crosswise to the lay of the grind and relatively flat and a flat angle so you get more I found that you get more of an abrasive effect if you go flatter against the surface you want pure blasting I did a minor modification to my milling machine if you remember I did a video on that that stopped the precision depth stop I had always had a small dial indicator in here that showed me the last 10 millimeters of travel off my depth stop that means when I got close I could see on the depth stop the remaining distance that worked perfectly fine the precision of the steps up incarnations of the dial indicator was really good but it was relatively clunky and slow if you had to do work to a lot of different death depth setups or depth settings I have a linear scale a glass scale on the on the head movement of this milling machine that's fine but for when using very tiny tooling and doing very small adjustments I prefer to use the quill it's just more sensitive so I decided to ditch the dial indicator I bought another important your scale 5 micron reading hundreds 20 millimeter travel and I mounted a bracket here to the head of the splinter of the mill it's aligned that way shimmed in this way so it's it's travelling true to the quill and I machined a small bracket that rides on top of the depth depth stop rod and mounts to the read head of the linear scale that way I get full full additional access off with a readout and I can see here on my dr oh and this really works nice it's very easy to go to certain dimension and I used this now for a little bit over a week and I could hit myself for not doing this earlier there are also the these me tutorial readout hats that are the same function principle as a as a digital caliper that amount to your quill L readout but those do not feed back into the Dro which is nice because the Dro has some functions that they can use with a full C axis like you can do you can cut radio radii on the side of a part with ball end mil and the Dro will show you the precision is you have to adjust your C axis and your X or Y depending on which direct you use it of course this is a three axis readout and I have four linear scales on this machine X Y C and the quill so right now I'm just unplugging the z-axis linear scale and plug in the quill scale and vice versa whatever I need but right now most of time the quill scale is plugged in I will I will probably buy 4 axis version of this head there are all versions that can do 3 axis 3 + 1 that means you have X Y and you can have two inputs on one one readout position so both scales add up or count together but I don't like that I want my two scales individual same for relief I never liked I've worked on machines where the the compound scale and the carriage scale added up in one readout position and I absolutely dislike that not not the way I like to work I got also asked why why I don't use the touch Dro while the functionality of the touch zero is really awesome it can basically do anything that a high-end dro like the the high behind that Robin has programmable gyro the touch zero can do all that but for me it's a no-go because its touch display I don't like touch this place in the shop I absolutely dislike them I want tactile buttons even if it's just these snap domes which are also okay but I can hit those blindly I can go here hit X X zero for example if I want to without having to look very precisely just by feeling it it's just preference and also the the LED displays in here didi seven-segment LED displays these are very easy to read my preference absolutely I don't I don't like a touch this place in the shop when I look at my phone how grungy this is when I have a doubt on shop can't imagine having a touch display on a machine also that's one of my gripes with one of the new Dacron machines with touch zero and my mind does hurt not exactly what you want in a machine shop but that's just my opinion there I still have my heart depth stuff that I can use I did not lose that functionality I still have to full depth stop around here to be used which is nice for repeatable work and here's a bracket that goes from the depth stop rod it's bolted on axially with a single m6 screw goes out welded on crossmember here and bolt it to the read head not a very substantial bracket because there there is no force on this whole contraption except for the pull of the cable running the cable a nice large loop there so if I go full full travel here I do not put any strain on the read head and all this good I need to take apart a albrecht zero to six millimeter keyless chuck we begin by removing this ring on the back then we make a oil filter or a lens wrench out of aluminum but just just bored a hole and then bandsaw to shape and this pinches the diameter you grip with it holding the Chuck in and the lathe then unscrewing the front cone counterclockwise that's the way these Chuck's come apart you can see the three jocks that move out and clamp your drill bit you can't just pull them out to the side with pair of powder parallel gripping pliers the inner part just can get get just knocked out to the front and then you can pull it apart and inside there you can see a row of ball bearings these are important so don't lose them that's also the reason why I take it apart over a plastic tray a lot of sticky grease in there and that's also the reason why I'm taking it apart it moves very sticky so I decided to take it apart and give it a good clean and a good lubrication with fresh grease and then I put it back together okay you're probably already sick of seeing these plastic parts I showed them numerous times before and once again I changed my process to make these in the past after I machined them on the lathe I put a sweet shot Chuck or the six jaw chuck here on the on the CNC router and then I mailed this internal contour problem is usually when I do this I need the same Chuck on the lathe for some or the other reason and also it's it's quite annoying to put the Chuck on here you have to put the Chuck down you have to find strap clamps and so on and so on it's really annoying so I decided to make some expanding arbors to hold these parts without any additional work holding tools these are just turned out of Delrin let's get the screw here out that's fairly long screw the screws so long because I'm threading into plastic and in plastic you want fairly long thread engagement at least two times threat diameter this is an m10 bolt so it's fair bit of length it's a flathead screw of conical head here and that spreads apart these four segments which is it's turned to the diameter to the internal diameter of this part then I slid it with an ant mill just a very wide slit with a six millimeter enemy then I went back to the lathe and I used parting tool to to undercut it here - to a depth of almost 2/3 of the diameter so these segments can flex out like this if you push down here on middle these segments will expand out and grab the part very secure and the trick with these arbors to get a repeatable result not only to have an expanding section here but also to have a non expanding section down here this diameter has the same diameter as the expanding section up here but this down here does not change when you expand the arbor so this diameter down here this defines the location of the part and this expanding section up here this is what clamps the part and it really works marvelous put a park on take a hex key oh by the way if you wonder about the flathead screw with the cap hat screw in it I didn't have a flathead screw from internal hacks and I'm not the biggest fan of slot head screws for anything especially for fixture screws that need to be moved on a regular basis so I drilled and tapped to them six and locked I did in a m6 cap hat screw part goes on like this tighten down the expansion screw and it's locked that's a very fast way for workholding have a second expanding our bar over here same same design non expanding section down here these four segments here again are slit and undercut with a parting plate to relatively small diameter so these leaves can move out once the part is put over the real shape of the parts and the additional holes are caused by the fact that this is made out of them out of a different fixture that I need don't need any more and this one is made so I can hold these covers for grilling the ten millimeter hole in the center is already there from turning them in the lathe and this is quite convenient because the neck is me a way to reach in to tighten and loosen the arbor that's also a very good way to secure these parts and a way this Arbor is designed it also when the Leafs expand out they also put a little bit of downward pressure on the part so it pulls it down onto the flat surface here and both of these arbors are just screwed with two screws and two tea nuts to the table of the mill centering them it's very fast just pick up four points and find the center as usually or use the test indicator and sweep it in but the precision on these parts is not critical so I usually just pick up four points and find the center so yeah then that's two arbors sometimes even on low numbers it pays very much to build custom workholding in this case I will keep the screws and the t-slot peanuts together with these arbors so each time I run this job I just have to slit them on the table screw it down Center the part and I'm good to go and I usually do about 10 or 20 of these parts in a row so make sense to build something useful this is me first time using the large Kuroda boring hat in the RF 45 mil I have to cast iron clamping blocks to hold nsk high speed spindles on a machine tool and they need to be bored to a relatively precise diameter I'm running at 580 RPM feed off point O 3 5 millimeter that's 35 microns per Rev and a depth of cut of 1 millimeter let me let me dial in the depth of cut that's quite nice on this boring head shut that and tear down just open the lock here then you adjust it one full revolution is one millimeter in diameter 1 millimeter and there's two and this is a hat it has a graduation in 10 microns per division using the quill feet the tool is something that Robin Warren said he showed an Instagram which is quite quite quite quite a good solution he uses linear shafting case-hardened linear shafting that's ground grinds a flat on it so it Orient's with the setscrew here and he silver braces whatever cutting implement he needs on the end in this case I just braced a piece of six millimeter round carbide on it and I ground it i'm DB grounder sharp and then i used very fine diamond we'll give it a good finish okay let's go [Applause] there we go no the Orient the boring head in a way so we can clear the boring bar but at that 90 degree moved the table over a little bit so we do not scratch the wall of the bore when we retract the tool then we go back to cero that's easy to be done with deorro or dial indicator that reads against the table but we have to move the table sideways anyway because we want to check the diameter should be 28 point something something something the finish is really nice the relatively fine feet per Rev and this very stiff large time the boring bar gets a good finish no vibration no drama keep in mind no matter what steel you use for the boring bar as long as it's steel no matter if it's hardened or unhardened the module of elasticity is always the same so the boring bar is always deflecting the same no matter if it's mild steel hardened tool steel or in this case case aren't linear shaft it's always the same deflection on the load what changes is the load that you need to deform it permanently but that's not interesting in this case we don't want to bend this if you want a stiffer boring bore you have to go to a material that is in itself stiff like carbide carbide would be three times stiffer so if you had a nice 18 millimeter piece of solid carbide and we braised cutter on the end that would make for a ridiculous diff boring bar for the boring head but I'm going to get into other problems because the whole J chain that goes up from the boring head is less stiff than that but it's an option to go for a carbide born but especially on the lead yes 28.6 now we can bring out some more precise tools to check the diameter and bore this final diameter in this case I have to use telescoping gauges my tri mics it top out it's 20 millimeters but I really like the the telescoping gauge sigh I got a nice set of of meter to you telescoping and small hole gauges and I'm really surprised how precise they are or how repeatable the precision comes in this case more from the tool you're using to measure it okay twenty eight point seven seventy five twenty eight point seven five let's write this down twenty-eight point five double check it never never never rely on a single ID measurement of telescoping gauges you bored the second clamping block to and now I can show you the actual boring tool that I made this is this is really very nice fit and bore of the the boring head and I will bring the camera in a little bit closer as I said there's a piece off linear shafting hardened ground the flat on it so it always aligns with the set screw of the boring head as you can see the the set screw makes a little bit of a mark but the case of this shafting material is deep enough so we're still in a hard area and will not leaving a big old dimple took an end mill 6 min then Melina just plunged down and I created this half round indentation 90 degrees to the flat that I ground yeah it took a piece of six moment carbide ie a end mill shank silver brace it in then I ground the usual boring tool geometry few degrees of positive rake like this maybe five degrees few degrees of clearance here maybe five degrees two and five degrees the top and a lot of back rake in this direction so it can it clears and a relatively small diameter as you can see this clears even in a relatively small bore like this could be a little bit less clearance angle then the cutting edge would last longer but I board two of these clamping blocks now and the cutting edge is still very nicely but that's also due to the fact that I use a very fine grit diamond wheels to grind these tooling tools this is fabrication Friday that's the thing now what we have here is my TIG welding cart I have one of those 200 m DC pulse TIG welders import had it for years works well enough for my purposes no no complaints those little little problematic on low end currents but it's okay for for my purposes have this enormous 17 sized euro style torch and I also have a air-cooled CK size 9 torch for smaller work this is really cool I like this one but this goes up to 200 amps and the small CK 1 is 1 1 10 amps I think not sure about that but that's not topic take wellness yeah this old Tony has done a million videos on TIG welding so if you're interested in that go watch those this are also more funny than mine I have I have a cast iron surface plate here this is my welding table this is a 300 something 300 by 300 millimeter cast iron surface plate it has a lot of things in it it's really beat-up and I use this as my welding table but but the problem is it's just sitting on top of my welder and it's just waiting to drop on my safety flip-flops not a good situation right now also this welding cart this is basically my first or second well in project I did was fatigue weld or I built this long long time ago and notice the it it has a 10 liter organ bottle back here which is fine tick well the sits here in front and there is kind a little bit storage down down there it has these enormous back wheels here this is comically large back wheels and the idea behind this was that I can drag it up this the stairs if I need to do outside welding which over the last five or six years I never did TIG welding outside and if I do welding around the house I had to stick weld stick welding works outside without a problem and usually I do not do any precision work around the house like like on the garden shed or something like that so and and the these large rear wheels which do not steer really are bad for maneuverability to move this thing around in the shop it's like a wheelbarrow has two steering wheels in front but yeah it's not ideal also this cantilever design here is not not the best storage down there is a mass storage Florida for organ cylinders okay the this is really not ideal and I want the surface plate here a little bit secured so my idea was to build a new welding cart so this is my new wealth cart I at first I wanted to do a full build video off this thing but when I do fabrication work in here there is no room left for doing anything with a camera so I built this thing and I thought I show you my my ideas behind this thing it's well it out of 20 by 20 by 4 millimeter hot rolled steel angle I had for some reason a huge stockpile of that stuff so I used it it looks a little bit flimsy but it's it's reasonable sturdy rolls on casters nothing special there 10 liter argan bottle back here hold in place with chains like does not fall over I have my welder here and you know in a glorious moment I decided to paint the wild card in 6011 Reseda green same color as my M koulev and my decalin grading machine which was kind of the standard machine collar in the 80s in Europe and for some reason I decided that the well there has to be in the same green so it took a sheet metal off and and sprayed it in the same green and it looks to be honest I'm not sure yet I have a draw section down here to keep consumables and stuff like that for the TIG welder I didn't want to make my own draws so I went to Ikea I got a six draw a six draw unit out of sheet metal for I think they cost around 30 euros and I just cut it in half of an angle grinder and made it part of the wild cut the sheet metal on this thing is really very thin at 2.5 millimeter so it didn't wild it in I take braised it in a few spots ice it's rigid reasonably rigid in there and yeah it's it's decent the drawers are quite nice they run metal on metal no drawer slides no full extension slides but you can get them fully out if you need to on the side well cap welding mask welding helmet this is an OP trail weld cap personally I'm quite happy with it but I'm no welder hook for what a lead of the torch doesn't my this is the 17 size torch that came with with the welder and yeah 1 meter length welding wire back here full length i only stock steel 316 stainless and aluminum bronze user usually not aluminum bronze silicon bronze sorry and to top it all off literally a 300 by 300 millimeter cast iron surface plate on top here I saw Robin Arryn said he use a cast iron surface plate as a well surface and it's it's it's a good idea in my mind so I got me a beater plate for next to nothing like 10 euros and I dropped it on top of this world cart terraces huge gap back here 150 by 300 millimeter I will drop a piece off a firebreak in there and I might even add a vertical piece of fire brick to to heal the organ bottles off with the idea to use this probably for silver brazing a silver soldering - and have a nice spot back here where I can put hot parts BBQing cool off slowly not with this huge mass of cold cast iron that pulls it away in an instant nope yeah that's the wild carp I'm I'm quite happy with it took me it took me about them huh including paint spray painting it took me about a day to build it it's not a masterpiece of fabricators art but our machine is not a fabricator a quick and look inside the drawers after consumables for my to take tortillas 17 size and not size 9 gas lenses normal cups gas lens for the 17 size torch spare bat caps back caps for the 9 size torch and tungsten one one point six and two point four millimeters is what I use gray I exclusively used to gray electrodes I never had other I never had problems with it and that's what I would ma what the fabricators at work told me to use and of course the tick finger second draw is welding wires have my drops or my remaining wires when I use a full length and this is what's left goes in there I need some way to sort them like like in half cut pipes or something like that again steel stainless 316 and silicon bronze and I also have some some of this stuff on hand this is these are two different wires in here one is chrony text - five - - see which is a high nickel wire something like 80% of nickel and I have a heart facing wire that that goes up to 60 HRC hardness you use this stuff to do well to build up on punching die tooling and stuff like that it's also nice to rebuild and grinding wise for somebody took a good bite out of it you use first you put on a layer of the high nickel wire ever the buffer then you use the hard face wire to build it up completely and then you do your usual surface grinding and blending and all the the fun stuff this stuff is terrible expensive it's serious expensive I got this from a mold maker just just a few sticks of it so I'm good to go there and last raw seek a size 9 torch this is really cool it's very nice very small one thing I don't like to use a foot pedal for perfect welding I'm used to 2t and 40 welding Weaver with a button on the welder that's what I prefer and I need to get me a button that goes on here for the small nine size torch cap for the gas bottle spare ground clamp oh yeah as I said I'm not a I'm not a fabricator I'm a machinist that meets from time to time to do welding on parts most of my welding is repairs and sometimes I do I I well together parts for machined components so I do not have to remove as much material that's especially cool with if you do a design out of laser-cut parts tavern slot put them together and then just weld them together so I hope you enjoyed this mishmash of different topics I would prefer to go back to the project and workpiece related videos or show a lot more machining and setup and things like that but at the moment that's not really happening a lot of the custom work I'm doing currently I cannot show no photos no videos so it is what it is at the moment thanks for sticking with me and thank you all for watching see you next time [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 45,985

Rating: 4.97404 out of 5

Keywords: logiblast, sandblast, sandstrahlen, strahlen, verdichten, glasperlen, linear scale, dro, digitalanzeige, glasmaßstab, wohlhaupter, boring head

Id: jtWi_YMcZdI

Length: 49min 44sec (2984 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 16 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/Spiernik]

Here's how I've understood it:

No matter if it's hardened or mild steel it will deflect the same absolute length. If you push it further than that, it will permanently deform. Hardened steel may need more force to reach that point, but the total deflection of the boring bar will be the same no matter hardened or mild steel. As long as it's steel it will behave exactly like that. After that point of deflection it may behave differently (like hardened steel may snap and mild steel may bent).

If you want less deflection you need to change to a different material like carbide, which deflect less.

[u/lumaco]

Don't be afraid of breaking rule 4.

I believe him of course but it's still doesn't really click for me. Intuitively I'd say that hardened steel is much stiffer than mild steel. Or am I just tricked because it's harder and more brittle?

Can someone ELI5?