Chinese three jaw chuck

what we're going to talk about today is this el cheapo three-jaw chuck made in China 100 millimeter diameter cast-iron body and of course in China completely costs 69 bucks retail so really cheap and let's see if this is any anything good I bought this on purpose for my rotary table I don't need a high precision check on my rotary table because I can slide the Chuck on the rotary table to get it centered anyway so el cheapo is good enough but let's see what we have with this thing it comes with a bag of crap some screws should be let's see yeah it says 8.8 great but I think they are keys great high-quality allen wrench the external jaws we will take a look at those later and I like these I really like these one of those OSHA safety blah blah blah compatible Chuck wrenches with the stupid spring that drives you crazy after five minutes so yeah now it's now now we can use it see you put it in and doesn't fly out and you don't die if you leave the Chuck the key in the truck for a few seconds just don't turn on the machine okay let's take a look at this guy first thing let's see if the jaws are hardened take a needle file and go to a minor spot yet and they are harmed not super hard but the file still captures but yeah it's hard enough to to withstand normal shop environment at least for a bit of time then the resale I bought this from has his logo sticking out here and yeah that's not see and that's that's crappy because the logo he glued in there is proud of the surface so that's stupid you want to check up a disk or use parallels to set up your part up from the back face of the chuck this interferes with what you want to do we have a little spot that's low the surface that's good we have to chintzy Chucky with the red condoms on it feels ooh wow this feels like there is sand in it whoa whoa okay this feels really like 69 bucks let's get the jaws out oh and we immediately see the reason why it feels like there's sand in it and the reason is there is stand-in it seems like when the ground jaws in place or they make random they left them in place and didn't clean it out after they were done because that's that would would be no margin left if you do that and the chuck wood wouldn't be 69 bucks anymore so yeah let's take off the back plate which is held in place with three so let's take off the back cover back plate and there is the second reason why it runs very bad this de pinions and the big battle gear with the spiral on the other side there are quite dry so as you can see these aren't opinions which drive to the spiral you turn them around you can see the spiral move and yeah not not feel already but better as the jaws are out I think most of t actually feels quite good most of the roughness the crappiness came from the jaws or the dirt then so let's take out the pinions for that purpose there are set screws that go past the axis of the pinion yes these are long set screws then you can pull out the opinion to the outside and as you can see there is a groove cut into them in which the the d set screw interlocks and holds it in place and these are also quite sturdy so we are going to watch all these parts down some wd-40 just to make sure there is no dirt left in them let me take a closer look at those compliments we can push up the spiral ring back or a leaf we should be able to do so okay let's take the small drift mm breast-pin to knock it out here you have the spiral ring with the battle gear on the other side here you can see that Chuck housing these parts have quite a lot of machining through them they start as a casting as they are cast iron then they machine all the interior surfaces are machined they have to machine these three bores for the pinions I have to do a lot of growing on the backside and they have to cut the T slots in front here so that's quite that's at least one set up in the lathe two setups in the lathe machine both sides and then at least one two setups on a meal and then I set up with a dividing head to machine the three opinions or they do it on a CNC with with life tooling where it can machine all the features like on the lathe and then the machine spin locks and you come in drill tap on the lathe you have life tooling on the turret which can drill Mill and tap and also you can come in from the side with a straight tool in the turret and machine the the pinion bores then the machine can give the part to a second Chuck on the other side account the spindle catch it and then you can machine with the live tooling DT slots if you want to know more about this just googley cnc lathe and life tooling it's quite incredible with what these machines can do and yeah it's C China export hundred millimeter maximum 3500 rpm that's a bit optimistic for a cast iron Chuck I don't think I would run it above 3000 rpm you want to go higher you want a steel body hardened steel body Chuck otherwise you don't know what's going to happen what what I can feel when I handle the part nothing is deeper the bores for the for the pinions have a nice / razor / really sharp on them will break those the t slots are sharp and those Gant here of the t slots they are also nice and sharp the interior corners here those are chamfered mostly edge from the Louisville bla here yeah we'll take it later to the suffrage plate and check one or two things so set this aside this is the backplate which you know basically doesn't do a lot it just closes the back of the jaw everything is held in by the pinions opinions go in there our secure proof two set screws and then this is just a cover so yeah it's covered let's take a look at the Williams and the gear brain okay let's take a close look at these pinions and as you can see in the surfaces they are these are cast arts they are sure dude in fact they might they are hardened they are not super soft the file doesn't grab very much but these are either forged parts or cast parts but I think these look for all that matters like a forged part that means you need to pop up to red heat and then you suede it into a dye you put it between two dyes or a punch on a die and you press it into form then you take it out might even come out with the square then you can take it a new machine the other diameter just turn on a label ground and also just this pin on the end this guiding pin does a machine and now we take a look at the pin unit or at the ring gear and this is machined like gear teeth you can clearly see that they came in with a wheel cutter like this or of a hop I think Bell gear our hopped that means they have a hop or a milling cutter that's turning and the part is turning below it at the right speed and then you can cut all the teeth in a very short time and as it seems this part is okay this is soft this is cast this is cast iron for all all what it looks as you can see here on spiral you have to open grain structure of a cast peak of cast-iron the graphite looks you can see the graphite inclusions but doesn't look too bad it has no burrs on that up here we have slight burrs but we will clean this and hold it anyway this spiral and there is a lot of grinding dirt in it but this is machine and then it's ground or a very fine finishing cut on the lathe but I'm not sure how you grind this spiral you could do it on a jig grinder a CNC check rounder and just interpolate a helix but I don't think they do it that way because that's a very expensive way of grinding something like this it might be a specialized purpose-built machine that's but this barrel is ground so they must have some way of grinding this for high production and the only thing that comes to my mind is a purpose-built machine cause you would have to go in with a very thin mounted running point go in and then grind the helix like this and go all the way then come back on the other side of the spiral all the way to the inside then you grind the the ID is on the ground and it's some diameter it's about 40 millimeters and the surface finishing the bore of this valve here yes it's quite good that yeah these are my childhood North right check the hardness which the file but the surface finishing bore is quite good the spiral itself looks a bit she looks good but they didn't finish the bottom which doesn't matter but it would be a nice it would look nice if they ground the spiral all the way down to the bottom surface and my even finish the bottom surface would be would be nice but it's a non non critical surface so yeah these are the high quality set screws use Allah grilling like crap slop and also grinding dirt that's always when you buy by machine equipment on a budget like this Chuck for 69 bucks you will find grinding dust in it and yeah clean this mess off camera I'm just going to wrap brush everything down with wd-40 and we'll be back okay I washed it all out as you can see there's quite a lot of rest you in the wd-40 I used that's all grinding dust I got out there and you can see that I put it back together and I use some molybdenum disulphide paste which I I mixed myself I took some lithium grease and superfine melikhov powder and mix it up into a very heavy paste which will stain every white sofa in your house to a nice glossy black so be careful with that stuff the Mali is very good for low speed and high pressure situations like on the rack and on the pinion and the gearing in this Chuck and as you can hear it's moving nice and free we can put the back cover on okay this feels way better than before no no I like it I can this yeah okay what I'm going to check is if the face of the Chuck body is parallel to the backside of the jaw and if he steps on Charles are parallel to the back face of the Chuck backface is resting on surface plate so just check the heights with the valley indicator so let's go down on face zero and across the surface this looks pretty good oops boat now I dropped into the indentation from the stupid stick every year and the drop slightly to the center but it's about it's less it's um it's one hundredth of a millimeter so half a cow and zero and it also drops 101 into Center and cert phase also drops to the center 100 but very very nice all around so the the Chuck the truck face is very parallel to the backside that's nuts good now go for the most outer step start zero max about you okay this is not souping them I'm going to average it out if - one here oh yeah that's zero and overall this jaw is low about to hundreds of a millimeter and this one yeah it's about one and a half hundreds of a little bit of low this is cool little aside this is plus three hundreds and this one is blue plus two plus five that's I don't like this very much let's let's see how much play they have I try to of course they have play in this direction asked by the spiral in the Chuck but I wanted to know if they can lift that's ah let's take a piece of round stock get our dial indicator on the surface here okay I'm I'm very likely clamp Tier III yep can move the part still I'm searing up the dial indicator up here and now when we tighten the Chuck down you can see that the jaw lifted about $100 million it bottled up let's see what happens on the outside in theory it should go down slightly but I have been wrong before very very very slightly and about half a hundred so millimeter so the the charset very tight and the slums that's good if the jaws would be very loose in there and a chuck itself they would buckle out like this and then you could read it on the dial indicator because it it would rise in front here and drop down back here but these jars are actually standard word actually quite tight slot and I think what we're going to do is we're going to take this we are going to take that this brand-new check to the surface grinder and make it even better why I'm insisting on these surfaces so much just because when you have it on the milling machine on rotor till then you chuck up a disc-shaped part you want the disc shaped part to run dead true that's achieved the easiest when you arrest the the part on these steps of the internal internal external on the reversed jobs oh yeah that's why we're going to grind it we will preload the Chuck we'll just take this piece of brass drop it in radan but from the table and just clamp it lightly so that Charles don't go this way when we grind it you could also grind it on the lathe what a tool post random of the cup wheel you could face the face the steps down until they run true pre-loading and we're going to take some masking tape to protect the chunk from grinding this okay we're robot surface grinder and aft Chuck stoned down on the backside and make the table also Mac not check off it still and clean and now we can set the Chuck up on the magnet it will have a 1 Chow to the back and just eyeballing its square to the fence and that's the job we're going to grind them breathe unlock it from the magnet turn it grind the next one and so on until we have one height lock it okay we want to see if the grinding will clears against the jaw on this side and we have clearance very very lightly just judging by the light between the jaw and granular so now we can proceed on I want to show you this to you I took a cut of to hundreds of Amami lands we are making contact the left edge of this step but not in frontier that are still paint left so by doing this you can also check very well how the surface looked before you did your grinding or while you did your grinding so I think we have to go another two or three hundreds from one meter okay now you can see that all the the paint is gone from the surface so it's we hit the whole surface with the grinding wheel and we know it's flat and we took off point 0.03 four millimeters let's zero this so we can go to just set up on the next jaw - and if you wonder I have mounted this beam to 1,000 of a millimeter digital indicator up here to the surface grinder and I have a rod down here and I have a bracket on my wheel head down here with a with an ejector pin which acts as a support piece wirdy where the indicator can measure against and this is adjustable in height with this locking handle here okay we ground the first surface now we can unlock the magnet turn the turn it and go up against the fence again lock it now we raise our wheel head to tenth of a millimeter okay brought the wheel in as before now we will plunge down again and do the same thing don't move it to the next jaw and go brace the wheel hat and then come down okay now I can see that we ground all three of the stepped surfaces this one has a very slight low spot in the corner but the others cleaned up for nicely and I'm not going to grind again because majority of the surface is flat now go to a surface plate and check it okay let's bring the towel indicator down this reads one hundredth of a millimeter by the way so half a fowl per indication I shouldn't do inge conversations we have zero across the whole surface here and we have pretty much sir over the whole surface on this jaw too and this is the last one and it's zero - so surprised surface grinder can make parts accurate and yeah max that will grind the three lowest spots or steps then it will change up the jaws and do the same on these okay I'm just adding engraving for the jaw number two Chuck body already good number one and I'm just indexing by eye no need for a dividing head here we go one two and three and also picked out the d stupid sticker from the reseller and I sketch bright it off the oddly laser engraving of the maximum rpm and the Chinese export sign so now it looks a bit more serious okay I think that's that's almost good enough we have two jaws all around two to be parallel to the back face after Chuck and they were all the same height on all steps inside and outside jaws and we think we did some cosmetic work and cleaned it and it's running smooth and we took look into the internals of a scroll Chuck so I think that's yeah that's good enough for one video thank you all for watching and see you next time

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 194,995

Rating: 4.8667808 out of 5

Keywords: three jaw chuck, backenfutter, gravieren, flachschleifeh, surface grinding, deckel g1l, lip 515, flachschleifmaschine, engraving machine, inspection, mitutoyo

Id: wKnvZnxXRaY

Length: 35min 18sec (2118 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 17 2016