Replacing a NOT professionally installed epoxy garage floor. Acid etching failed...AGAIN

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good morning folks it is april 12th and today marks the beginning of our garage floor season jeff is pulling up behind me with the generator i just want to walk into this house i want to show you what i always say um about preparation for concrete here this was a floor we're going to be redoing it was a broadcast floor installed by somebody else and i'm not here to knock them however there's obviously a lack of preparation i'll show you what happens okay so this was a flake floor and i'm going to try to show you this obviously this hot tire pick up here and see when you get under this that's what happens that's what happens when you don't do the right preparation when we grind the floor you get a scratch in the concrete there's no scratches there's no nothing this was probably acid etched and there might have been like a slight oily film here or something but obviously obviously it didn't work so this is what can happen with acid etching yes you might get lucky with acid etching and you might not ever have an issue but chances are it's going to fail at some point and when it does this is what you're going to get so what we're going to do is grind all this off we have to get down to clean white concrete get a scratch in the concrete floor and uh start over again so you can see every spot where there was a tire the other side of the garage doesn't really look used that much at all but uh every spot where there's a tire there's a failure so we're going to get started get our equipment in and we'll show you what we're going to do okay so we have our grinder in here i think we still have this set up with the 40 grit and these are the 40 grit diamonds for uh extra hard concrete so what we're going to do first these joints again this was i'm going to say painted i hate to use the word paint but this doesn't even look like epoxy so what we're going to do is saw cut these joints because the inside edges here there's paint or epoxy whatever this is on there now so we need to run the saw blade up there to expose clean white concrete so we're just going to run this saw up and down the joints to uh clean them out and see i have the blades set to i don't know three quarters of an inch or so and these joints i don't know if you can even see in here um they're about looks like half an inch deep so that should be plenty to get down into these joints so we'll clean the joints fill the joints then we're going to grind the whole floor and we're going to prime we're probably going to put our intermediate coat on immediately thereafter and flake it today and tomorrow we'll come back we'll do our clear top coat and then we're done now these doors what's also really nice about this is there's a drop down right here and the other reason why i say i think this is paint this edge here epoxy is it's thixotropic so it tends to run after you apply it this didn't it just stayed there so it's probably some type of concrete paint but we have to grind this off i have to get down to clean white concrete so we're going to terminate here but what it does it will allow us to close our garage door here and not affect this some other factors that most people don't think about when you're doing a floor is that tree right there as pretty as it is leaves these little leaves all over and all you need is one gust of wind and i can almost assure you all those leaves are going to come into the wet epoxy and stick to it like fly paper so at least we can close the door when we're done okay now i just want to get in here close i'll show you what we have so if you can see inside these joints now we saw cut down and now it's clean away concrete all the way down these joints so now we put our joint filler in there it's going to bond to that so that's what we're going to do now after that sets which should take about 15 minutes we're going to shave it with the razor and then we're going to grind the whole floor all right i know i'm always talking about preparation and preparation is the most important part of a floor but one thing i did want to show with this also is you see this concrete there's no scratch in it i know i mentioned that earlier but it's dirty under there so if this was acid etched and i'm guessing it was because you can see there's a slight slight porosity there but there's still dirt there nothing's going to stick to that what i do want to show you is over here there's hot tire pickup here too look at how clean that concrete is underneath there there's still no scratch there's no prep work be acid etched but it still didn't stick so you you really need to diamond grind this get the scratch on there and then it's going to stick that's a result of acid etching or not proper not properly neutralizing the acid after it was applied or something to that effect all right one thing i did want to point out this front edge here has whatever it is paint or epoxy whatever we've got to grind this off and get that clean white concrete so that has to be done by hand so i'm going to use this hand to edge your hand grinder up on edge there and do the best i can with that before we do the whole floor we're still waiting for the joint filler to set that should be soon and then we'll continue with that so one thing i want to say you know we pride ourselves on doing everything dustless when you're working on an edge like this and you can't keep the dust shroud flat on the concrete floor dust escapes there's nothing you can do about it so you'll see what happens when i'm up on edge yes you get a little bit of dust there and obviously we're wearing masks it's kind of part of the process but the rest of the floor is going to be virtually dustless as long as you can keep the muzzle down on the floor normally jeff will run the grinder first and then i'll edge but in this case it came up so easy i decided to do the edge prior to jeff using the big grinder all right so now i went around the edge that went pretty quick this concrete's a lot softer than i thought normally you run into pretty hard concrete in a newer home this development is so new there's still building houses at the end of the street so i don't know when exactly this home was built but i'm thinking i guess doing a lot of spheres i really don't know so i'll show you what i did okay so i got the grinder all along that front nose now when i grind that front nose i actually recarve a rounded edge on that front nose and there's a little bit of paint down in that very small corner there you can't get to it with the grinder but the important thing is right here this is where your tire is going to hit every time you come in so you need clean white concrete all across that nose is what we have so i went all the way around the edge you can't find these verticals there's no point there's never any stress on the vertical wall anyway and if you drive your car into a chip and you have a bigger problem anyways so i went all the way around the edge see how we got in there i want to show you the scratch we have so you see that scratch in the concrete that's what you want before you put a coating on so we're going to clean up this edging equipment we're going to get at it with the big grinder and we're going to continue on all right so we're changing out the diamonds diamonds for extremely hard concrete and this is not so we're taking those off and uh we're going to be putting on a set of red red 40s which those i think will tear this up too but at least it'll be controlled if you have the wrong diamond on it tears into the concrete so bad one you can actually install the grinder out and two you just dig gouges in the concrete which we surely don't want all we're trying to do is get this coating off get that clean white concrete and leave some semblance of a scratch okay so we start the large grinder and we always approach with caution when we first start just to make sure we're not tearing the slab up too much or not enough and and normally i'll follow behind with the brush and i'll check a couple places to see what type of scratch we're getting but what we found out very early on is that this slab was not very smooth i don't like to use the word level but there were a lot of low spots so we ground over this we have to go back and forth quite a few times to get these valleys ground out so here i'm going to follow behind jeff when we run into this issue with lots of low spots it's nice to vacuum right behind him that way he can see through the dust if there's an area that we have to hit again and you can see how it's exposed when i vacuum that and right now we're discussing how many low spots there are so jeff knows what to do with the big grinder so he'll come back and he'll hit those big spots again so we had so many low spots that we would have ground probably another 50 pounds of of surface off of there so it was easier to go in there with the hand grinder just get the the couple little spots that were so deep that the grinder couldn't get in the valley so that's what i did with the small grinder dressed up those little areas now we're vacuuming the entire floor and getting ready and then we're going to put our prime coat down now all right so now all the prep work is done i'm going to flip this around i'll walk you through so you can see everything that we did a couple things seems like every day that you do epoxy it gets windy and you know constantly battling the element so today it's wind and i know i showed it before but there's a pretty tree out here and all these little leaves are blowing around but the good thing is we're not going underneath the garage door so we're going to be able to close the garage door when we're done so none of that stuff will blow in here so i'm going to flip this around i'll take you walk around show you what we did okay so here was that edge we ground that edge all the way across there and like i said this is actually dirt from the cord but this edge is very important this is where the tires impact every time it goes up into the garage so that edge is extremely important to have clean all the way across so we grind that the best we could i got it in there with a four inch angle grinder afterwards too to get some more of that out of there so now we ground everything and the little pattern that you see on the floor here i came uh on this with a a hand angle grinder after we were done there were a couple low spots that the big grinder didn't hit so i came out with an angle grinder just to make sure all that paint that was on here is off so there's no paint left anywhere you see the scratch in the concrete this is 400 square feet so we're using uh one of the 500 square foot kits that we sell so it's three gallons of primer that we're going to be putting on here this concrete's pretty soft so it's going to suck that primer up but we're still going to have a little bit left over when we're done so i'm going to put this camera away for a second we're going to get set the coat and i'll be back with you i just realized i wasn't filming so we are now getting ready to put the primer down this is the 707 707 lbp this is our intermediate coat the 707 this is the 500 square foot kit that we saw on our website this is the prank coat that's the intermediate throw and these are our flakes so we're going to do the creme coke first wait 15 minutes whatever then we're going to put this coat right on it while it's still wet we're going to roll it right in and then we're going to throw the flakes on so i'm just going to mix up the primer then we're going to go so i do want to say you don't have to do the intermediate coat on the wet primer we do that we're experienced it's easy for us to do and if you feel comfortable doing it by all means you can normally one coat a day is what you would do in this case we're doing two on the same day because we're battling the elements so i'm pouring four four to six inch wide ribbons we're going to do three of these right across here i don't want to over pour because if you have a puddle in here when you're done it's a pain to get added my squeegee in my space okay so we just poured this out i just started squeezing here one thing i want to point out this is very porous concrete i had mentioned that i think earlier i just squeegeed this and you see all these tiny little holes in here it's soaking into the concrete which is perfectly normal and acceptable this is why you use a primer so when you push over one time you're going to get those bubbles you do it again and it virtually gets rid of all the bubbles you do it again they're all going so this is why i squeegee back and forth everything is kind of redundant and i always talk about consistency but when i squeegee i'm going to push a little puddle now on my left edge so it kind of goes up against the wall and it's trimming away you see i'm hitting that trim i see that little puddle undoing there that puddle is going to be enough to go up the wall we're going up that i have a big puddle so i'm just going to push that away i keep coming down here and leaving that half inch wide there [Applause] and see the technique i'm doing now also this squeegee is vertical i'm just going to pull this and i'm underneath that that pipe there now i have you know you see the puddle i'm leaving right at the base there so now when we take our edger we can roll into that puddle and go up the vertical with that um the holes left in the concrete when i back drag this with this fuji they're all going to go away i'm going back and forth you see the overlap i'm doing i'm almost doing a lot in half and you can see when i do this you see the holes in the first pass when i go right back over because i'm doing it in a different direction [Applause] i'm going to run this and i really don't have any weight on the squeegee i'm kind of pushing down a little bit in the back of the squeegee this is a fairly thin coat it's soaking in pretty good and what's interesting too i don't know if you can if you see here in the light this is actually dry looking in the right direction it's actually soaking right into this which is exactly the way going with the frame that's why we do it [Applause] [Applause] see how this looks almost dry here it just soaked right in so what i just told jeff is jeffrey's does the back rolling so i'm going to leave a puddle here here's an 18-inch roller over there he's going to wet the roller up in that puddle if you don't wet the roller up in a puddle and you start rolling out here it's going to suck all the epoxy off the floor and you're going to leave like dry pads on the floor so i'll take the camera for a little bit just to show how jeff does that okay [Applause] jeff's going to wet that up and by doing that in a puddle it's just so much easier to get your roller wet if you do that on the dry floor like i said you're just going to leave a pattern on the floor now again this is a 400 square foot garage i still have about three inches of epoxy in the bottom of that bucket yet suggest wetting up the wizard well we call it a wizard it's a six inch roller the six inch roller in the 18 and uh now we have to do the edges so i'm gonna have to put this camera down because i'll do the edges when jeff does the rolling so uh i'll set this up on time lapse so you can see what we're doing here a little bit i have no idea how this got blurry on us i apologize about that but at least you can kind of see the motion here i'll speed this up a little bit not to bore you with a blurry prime coat all right now we're getting ready to put down the intermediate coat which is the cfs 707 i'm going to open this up quick okay so again this is three gallons this is the 500 square foot kit okay so mixing this same as the the primer you pour the b into the a you make sure you mix around the edges really good go up and down um get the bottom good just make sure everything is mixed good the last thing you ever want to do is not mix the epoxy properly and pour it on the floor it will never set so take your time make sure it's mixed good make sure it looks consistent and then when it is you can move on this should take about two minutes to mix this i fast forward just because it's boring to watch so you have to be careful when you're doing this next coat of epoxy this is pretty smooth now so when you're walking on this with spikes and you pour the fresh epoxy on top of this it can get very slippery so you have to walk very deliberately be careful where you walk and how you walk stay flat-footed all right that's all i'm going to pour out i'm leaving like 2-3 inches in the bottom of this bucket again this is 400 square feet okay so the intermediate coat it's the same application as the prime coat i pour the ribbons out four to six inches wide you see the pattern i left on the floor there i'm squeeging the exact same way jeff is wetting up the rollers now in the cfs 707 so as soon as i get this squeegeed out he's going to start back rolling behind me perpendicular to the way i squeegee that way you get a good consistent coat i'm always talking about the consistency thing so that will take care of that issue and i know you can't see i probably have 34 inches left in here so again you never want to over pour so i'm just going to do one more ribbon across here [Applause] so at this point i'm just squeeging up to that front nose and you don't want to leave too much there because if it runs down that front nose it's going to run across the apron it's just going to look horrible so what i try to do is stay about a half an inch back or so from that front nose and leave maybe a quarter inch wide puddle off the edge of the squeegee then i take that edging roller and i roll into that puddle to the leading edge and on that vertical so you're not pushing a puddle over the edge it's just more controllable that way i'm sorry i can't get all this on video but i can't hold the camera while i roll and squeegee at the same time so now i'm going to work that edge with the six inch edger there before jeff runs the 18 inch roller over the whole floor and all i'm doing is pulling the color up the wall you don't want to put it heavier it's going to run down the wall in this case there is a little perimeter joint like an eighth of an inch wide so that material can run down in the joint if you make it too heavy but don't put it heavy on the vertical surfaces okay so jeff's working his way out here so so terry out in oregon i know we're working on your floor out there you purchased a bunch of material from us so you you were asking me how do you know if you're going to cover up the scratch well this is the equivalent of a neat coat floor which is the prime coat and the top coat so this is what you would see which is pretty much a mirror finish at this point we're going to throw the flakes on here now and uh you'll see how much that camouflages everything all right so i'm getting ready to flake now and i i always go through this on every video and it seems like people always have questions about how to flake and all that others so i'm doing this perimeter wall too so these flakes i'm going to have to throw into the wall but i'm going to show you how to broadcast the flakes up in the air so you get a nice consistent pattern on the floor so i'm going to try to angle this i'm hoping you can see me jeff can you look at that is that actually angle then where they can see that let me get it okay all right sorry we're trying to deal with the camera here so the best way to do it is throw into the wall like that so i'm gonna throw some flakes and she wants a random pattern she doesn't want a real heavy so i'm not going for a full coverage by anything just trying to throw some into the wall here and i'm just grabbing a pinch and i'm like backhanding and this is hard because it's underneath that trim so it's not very easy to get to all right so now let's see i did that wall if i see a couple light spots i can get a little bit more so now i'm throwing the actual flakes on the floor again this is very important that you do this you throw them up in the air and you let them shower down i and then if you have more flakes you want to do it heavier you just keep putting more on that you know you have enough if you throw them all in one corner and you run out you're done there's nothing to do about it so this is what i'm gonna do okay so i'm going to start going over the whole floor here the customer does not want a heavy flake so i am trying to keep a medium flake consistent all over the whole floor so you see me going back and forth and again it's way easier to put down a light coat over the entire floor and come back over and add more once you add too much it's on the floor you can't take it up there's nothing you can do about it so just take your time and and try to do lots of light broadcasts all over consistency is so important i know i always say that so i'm going to keep going over the floor i'm showing a lot of this just so people really see how to flake it's probably the most common question i get is how to apply the flake consistently so i just want to show the technique i use there how you throw it up in the air and you see even when i throw it coming out of the bucket it's like a big wad of flakes and it just opens up and by the time it gets to the floor it opens up in a nice shower and lands gently on the floor if you don't throw them up in the air just lands in a big clump and then you have these you know piles of flake all over the floor which is normally unsightly okay now i am walking around in the wet epoxy just checking for consistency in the flake and i think we're pretty pretty darn consistent but again by throwing them up in the air like that that's what really makes it consistent and that looks awfully good to me so i'm going to step out of here we're going to close these doors then we're going to be back tomorrow and we're going to do the clear coat we're going to put aluminum oxide in so i always forget to mention this if you like what you're seeing please hit the like button please subscribe we appreciate all your support trying to educate everybody on how to save some money do your own floors or at least see how flurries should be done right so we'll finish up tomorrow and we'll show you what that looks like thank you one more thing i want to mention today before we leave is the flake this is a two gallon bucket it was filled up to about here there's about four gallons and or four pounds in here five pounds tops this flake kit the 500 square foot kit comes with 15 pounds so you saw what i don't know four pounds did in there so uh you get quite a bit of flake okay welcome back day number two so yesterday uh we put the intermediate coat down in the flakes i'm going to give you a close-up of that i'm going to vacuum the edges of this thing to get it all ready for today's clear top coat we're going to go from there okay so we have heavy sun coming in here we kind of see the texture of the floor you see the consistency of the flake first these shadow lines look funny that's what we got all over the course so i'm just going to vacuum this threshold here quick we're going to try to keep things clean get the plates out for there we're going to mix up our clear coat take a clear coat when [Applause] okay so real quick before we get started here i have the sun at my back really bad it's creating quite a shadow on everything which is a little awkward but so here's our uh our top coat we're doing the cfs 137 muv uh we have our aluminum oxide and i just poured a little bit in a container here that's going to be plenty for what we're doing um our mixing paddle this is the typical mixing paddle we use i don't know what is that a three inch diameter uh head on that we have our spiked shoes we have an 18 inch roller we have a six inch roller and uh you want to say we have a what is that six foot or eight foot extension on the 18 inch roller you know it might be six foot which opens up to i don't know maybe 11 12 feet wherever that is and that's it so we're gonna mix this up oh and this is our squeegee and by the way our squeegee it's a 24 inch squeegee that's an s 550 midwest rake professional series squeegee but the important part is it has a non-marking blade that's a gray squeegee blade if you have a black blade on there and you're doing a top clear coat you'll actually see the black from the squeegee blade in the clear coat sometimes you have to be careful so we're going to set this up and pour this out and back roll okay so we mixed up the 137 muv this is three gallons and a five gallon bucket again this is the top coat for the 500 square foot kit that we sell online i'll show you how we pour this out pretty much just like before you're pouring ribbons out on the floor [Applause] about four to six inches wide this material typically goes a lot farther but you can control it so if you want it heavier you put it down heavier the only thing you have to be concerned if you put it down too heavy it's going to get more slippery i hate to use the word slippery so that's all i'm going to pour out for now and see how much i still have in the bucket here we're still i mean it was filled with here so we use less than half but we're going to squeegee this out a little bit a little closer and determine what we need [Music] and then we'll roll that we also have to put our aluminum oxide to the floor head now this overhang here makes it a little more involved see my squeegee actually have it extended forward here as you can get underneath there i'm pulling this at a very awkward angle a little puddle like leave along the wall there [Applause] and i always preach consistency so uh everything's gonna get squeegeed the other direction again anyway you see that pebble i leave along the wall okay yeah it's inevitable somebody's going to ask why i didn't scrape the floor first well this is a partial flake system normally you need to scrape the floor if it's a full flake because some of the plates will be sticking straight up in the air but by using this squeegee if there's a flake sticking up it's just going to snap it off anyway [Applause] so now i'm just going to go back and forth into the edges consistent pressure on the squeegee and this clear coat does have a slight amber hue to it that's simply so you can see where it is so [Applause] all right so now we change camera angles here jeff is going to wet the roller up there's a little bit of a puddle which again we talked about wetting up the roller yesterday too but you just want to make sure you end it up in a puddle it's much easier to do if you try to roll out on the uh on the epoxy with a dry roller it's just going to suck it all up and you're going to leave a dry path on the floor so just pretty much got that wet out all right so now we both need to work so i got to put this on the uh on the tripod here and record the rest of this sorry once again my uh camera decided to not go in focus for whatever reason so uh here i continue squeeging out the 137 muv and then i'm getting ready to broadcast the aluminum oxide which i'm going to explain in a second okay so we squeegee down to 137 muv it's it has not been back cold yet but it's fuji down so everything is wet now i'm going to use the aluminum oxide you can see how much i have here it's actually not very much i'm literally just taking a pinch and you just take it and you throw it up in the air and just do consistent again consistent is so important consistent passes all over the floor little pitches so now when jeff back rolls this what he's going to do is take those particles and then trap them in the clear coat and then you're going to have a nice consistent coat you're probably throwing this right on jeff i apologize so and i'm going to i'm going to grab that camera then i just want to give you a close-up of before and after it's back so you can see exactly what these particles look like in the clear coat [Applause] again this is just like the flakes you throw them up in the air and give you a little so now what i'm also going to do is right in front of the door because everybody's going to go through the door i'm just going to throw a little bit extra there just to make sure they don't come down to a wet floor and slip so i'm going to grab that camera from jeff i'm going to give you a close-up here so now it's hard to see in the light here can you see those particles in there i don't know if the sun is helping or hurting but that's what we have before we back roll it so we're going to back roll that in there and it's going to be all consistent all across the floor so i'm going to have to put this back on time lapse just because we both need both hands okay so as far as back rolling i mean this is just like back rolling any other epoxy coating we do i'm going to go around the perimeter with that six inch edger i'm just doing that vertical face really quickly just to get something on it and jeff is starting to back roll uh the the 137 muv with the aluminum oxide in it so now that aluminum oxide is being encapsulated in the epoxy so this floor will be super easy to clean in the future and hopefully you get good enough traction from it okay now we have been back rolled again this sun is brutal i don't know if this is helping or hurting so i'm going to give you both shots here but if you look at the texture that's the aluminum oxide in there and if i had a guess it's like there's one particle maybe every 3 8 of an inch it's very hard to describe because it's random you know but it is applied as consistently as possible so i am walking very gingerly because you don't want to slide your feet now because it will leave a mark but this is the finished floor we're going to walk out we have to just do the front nose right here with the brush yet just to get us down to the leading edge and then we're done okay so we just wrapped up i'm just going to do a quick shot here of the outside here's the nose if people ask why we don't tape that when you do it it is impossible to tape a surface like that and have the tape actually work it's just going to wick the epoxy underneath and it's going to leave a big old mess so this is it so if you like what you're watching hit the like button please subscribe we appreciate your support we'll see you on the next one so here's the before picture you can see the hot tire pickup this is on the left bay this is on the right bay and then here's our after picture so thanks for watching we appreciate your support
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Channel: Concrete Floor Solutions Inc.
Views: 448,906
Rating: 4.8860555 out of 5
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Id: SVx73mAqJ6M
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Length: 40min 17sec (2417 seconds)
Published: Tue Apr 13 2021
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