Goodbye 70’s Concrete : PRO Garage Epoxy - Real ReBuild

on the build show today we're going to show you how to take this 50 year old nasty slab from this to this wait why do i look different [Music] all right guys we got a fun video for you we're going to take you through all the steps to go from this nasty 50 year old slab to what you saw earlier but i got an expert with me someone you may know already a fellow youtuber eric cortina eric how are you thanks for joining me brother so yeah what is this 50 years old yeah yeah this is a 70s house 70s slab yeah it's looking pretty ugly eric i don't know man this kind of scares me thinking about putting a coating on top of a floor like this well for being 50 years old it actually looks really really good and you have options right everything we do on my channel is mainly new construction but this concrete is really not a good candidate for stained concrete because stained concrete the color is in the concrete okay and then we simply put a clear coat over it to protect the the uh you know the stain but every stain anything that's on here is gonna show so i think you're a better candidate for either epoxy or polyurethane or some coating that has the color in the coating itself not concrete that way so the coating is going to be on top then and you wouldn't see all the nastiness underneath correct now we're still going to prep it don't get me wrong we're going to have to grind it typically if you're doing stain you don't want to grind because you need that cream on the surface you know you just need to profile it a little bit just enough to get the sealer to stick okay but you want the cream on the surface because that's what's going to stain yeah right here we're not worried about it we're going to grind it grinding is going to be the easiest fastest best way to get the profile that we need for that coating to stick you want that coating to stick okay so preparation is key as you can imagine and speaking of prep before you got here today you gave me some directions talk to me through talk me through what andrew and i did yesterday in terms of uh general prep right so obviously being 50 years old you're gonna have oil stains you're gonna have stuff that just has fallen on the concrete over 50 years and so you guys use uh some daily clean just get you a good cleaner that can uh you know you want to get as much off of that concrete as possible you're not going to get it all but you want to get as much off as possible you want to get a floor machine with a with a brush a stiff bristle brush that's what you want oftentimes you can use a pad but i'm not going to make it even better i'm not a big fan of the pad because the pad just kind of floats on the surface and you want to profile the concrete and whenever you profile it and then you use that chemical you want to get it out so if you use just a pad or a brush you want to vacuum the water okay afterwards okay uh again here it's not as critical because we're gonna grind it right now you were just getting kind of the stuff off the surface which you did a good job i mean thank you uh there's but even then there's still a lot of stuff behind you know there's a lot of paint there's uh yeah we're seeing some garbage on the surface that right didn't come out well and we've got some of this kind of stuff happening too right right and we're gonna fix all that and that's the beauty of doing a coating right if we were just simply staining the concrete you could not really do anything to that because if you patch it that patch is going to stain differently than the old 50 year old concrete right whereas a coating is going to float over top of all that it's going to the colors in the coating itself and if you patch this my assumption is you're going to patch first and then you'll grind to kind of feather that pattern right so you won't be able to see that's why we that's why i wanted you to clean it up now that it's clean i can go straight to patching okay okay after we get it patched up we let it cure for a few days maybe about a week or so make sure that the concrete or that patch we're actually going to be using a micro topping and you want that to be well and cured so that when we grind it it grinds nice and flat with the rest of the concrete got it all right i've got a pretty big defect over here you worried at all about about this guy this was my old hvac closet on the house before believe it or not i was in the garage which is a terrible place for an hvac system and that is the freon lines that were running through a sleeve in the slab what do we do about that oh that's not a problem so what we're gonna do we're gonna have to fill it in with maybe some foam or something okay and then we'll we'll grind it flat and then we'll put some of that uh concrete that i have put it down in the hole travel it flat fix this spot as well yep and then we just leave it alone and it's not going to look like area so it's not that big a deal probably right but it's not going to look that good today and that you just want enough build so that when we grind it that it grinds flat don't worry too much about troweling it's super flat typically what happens if you try to travel it's super flat if you get it perfectly flat and there's any shrinkage it's actually going to suck down and you don't want that so you want it correct you want a little more than you need so right now it's going to be very simple we're just mainly going to look at all the areas that are bad you know you have some spots back here yeah all that needs to be fixed so we're just going to fix the main stuff it's not going to look super good today it's gonna look really good after we grind it after we grind it then we put the coating down all right so let's come back here in a couple days uh once we've gotten some dry time and then we'll show you the grind process right exactly all right [Music] [Music] okay guys day two of work we let the garage dry what's up with today's work eric well we started grinding the floors we need to profile the floors so that the epoxy can stick really really good okay typically on new construction as i said before we we can simply do an acid wash but because this what is this 50 years old yeah yeah it's from the 70s right and i did some patchwork then grinding was the best solution and talking about that grinder that's a more industrial grinder what's the grit of pad what are they using to actually so that is a 30 grit you can actually get down to about a 14 grit is that right and but but yeah so the thing is i had no idea what kind of concrete they used here possibly you know they could have used like a 2500 yeah you never know right so i didn't want to bring the 14 grit because i was afraid they would do too much damage whereas the 30 if it doesn't do enough well then you just do multiple passes right and then you'll get there and now that we're done you can kind of see what you've got here it it has a little bit of a swirl pattern in some of the harder spots right and the softer spots you got more sanding done is that right yeah so it profiled the slab really well and now that's going to provide a really good surface for the epoxy to stick to yeah it's kind of two-thing in right correct you know you have all those hills and valleys that's just more surface area makes sense what's the next after this now well now we're going to finish cleaning it up really well as you know today we did not use water because the epoxy you cannot have moisture yeah we're trying to get it done today so what we did is uh we just just did it all dry we vacuumed all the dust and now we're gonna clean it out real well we're probably gonna take a leaf blower have to wear a mask this this stuff is bad stuff so blow it all out and then after that then we can start putting down the epoxy and the chips all right i'll meet you back when we get the epoxy started all right the excitement begins leeroy got our part a part b the crown polymers all mixed talk through what you got going on eric all right so we got the epoxy mixed and now we're going to put it down think about epoxy it is 100 solids so you don't want to dip and roll you want to pour it right onto the concrete and you want to use a notched squeegee a notched squeezy interesting to spread around it's only got about a uh these are 1 16th notches on this thing and this is going to allow us to spread it evenly on the concrete and then we're just simply going to come back with a roller and roll right over okay if you dip and roll again because it is 100 solids it's not going to spread really well and you may actually get roller marks especially if it's a very hot day so you want to use the not squeegee and this is literally all you do don't be scared i'm a little scared all right you do that one little one little puddle to start with yeah and then he's gonna kind of work it into all the places isn't he and that eighth inch or sixteenth notch it's not a lot of notch but it's allowing some material to flow through and get a kind of a uh consistent consistent coat there you go it doesn't have to be 100 perfect uh like i said the uh the rollers can do the rest but probably a good time for us to mention that eric wanted to do this work prior to sheetrock um which makes sense because now we're not super worried about taping walls being perfectly careful about edges and that also means that i've got a little bit of forgiveness built into the system because once the sheetrock goes on the walls and i put base down i've got about you know an inch inch and eighth or inch and a quarter let's say from that zip sheathing or from our studs to the final wall so that that edge where he's epoxying out here doesn't need to be perfectly up against something which ultimately is going to save us a fair amount of time in the end right here correct so you want to work smart obviously well a little epoxy goes a long ways yeah like i said that's that's the beauty about the squeegee as well you can get very even coverage this looks awesome now lee we're gonna start cross rolling crush rolling cross cross rolling cross rolling sorry i just heard you okay now what's the uh what's the type of uh roller pad three-eighths roller oh okay uh three-eighths roller uh obviously you want a non-shit nap you don't want it to shed yeah the chest it's going to be there yeah you want it to be a uh solvent based or solvent resistant so it has to be a quality roller yep bottom line oh and this gray epoxy that we're using here it could be a final coat if we wanted to right correct correct but we are going to use this in order to get our chips to stick so we're going to put it down then we're going to come back and throw chips on here and with those chips do we also need sand in there for slip resistance or will the chips do that for us the chips is going to give you a circuit it's not going to be very slippery plus this is interior um i don't like i don't like using uh sand if we don't have to because it makes it really hard to clean yep but uh no the chips will give you blending surfaces one thing i've got a question for you while you're doing this you've got a just a small crack in that slab right there will that epoxy cover that it will uh it will to some degree but the chips are going to really really bring it home got it so when you're doing this it's not perfectly level leroy is really doing the more yeah yeah final level with the rollers just so you can spread it yeah the main thing is the main reason for the squeegee is so that you don't leave it too thick yep makes sense what's our pot life it's not much uh today's a beautiful day so it's low humidity low humidity super hot about 75 degrees so our pod life right now is probably about 30 minutes okay but you still you want to maintain a wet edge at all times yeah you got to keep moving that is uh you have to not only do you have to keep moving you have to keep mixing and you can't mix more than one kid at a time so you have to time it properly and one kid is a gallon and probably a quart of part b something like that half the mixture is two to one okay two to one it's a half gallon of part b and a gallon of part a correct from this particular crown polymers that may be slightly different depending on the manufacturing of the reason and you do want a two-part i also want to mention that this is not an epoxy you're buying at the home center the hardware store this is from a pros store that would sell to individuals if you're watching this but generally speaking this is a pro type of install man this looks so good i can't wait to see those chips go down so are we worried about doing chips partial now while the epoxy's still wet eric are we going to do the whole garage and then and then throw them back so when we get to about here we're going to throw chips on here got it and then just keep working away you can always come back with uh spike shoes uh however i do find it easier to throw chips down as you go because if you wait if it's a big job and you wait until the end it may get too dry on you so the chips will no longer stick so yep you have to be extremely careful about that as well got it so you can see leeway doing the face right there okay yeah so that curb uh tire stop is getting done right now by leroy as he comes works his way down i'm also noticing that leroy's got a good um amount of epoxy to work with there's not an excess in there there's no big puddles there's a few parts like this that have just a little bit of a ridge of epoxy so to speak but other than that no big puddles no big drips and that's that's that's the that's the squeegee that's what the squeegee yep looking really good guys one thing i want to mention is when my epoxy is complete in these corners down here i'm going to put a piece of sega tape or zip tape between the zip sheathing and the base or pardon me and the floor and then eventually i'll put a pvc base on like versatech and i'll probably also that to the floor so that if i'm ever power washing my garage out or hosing it out i'll make sure that i don't get any water and also air or bugs underneath my bottom plate now this is a remodel situation so i don't have a concrete curb for these walls chip time guys so anything special about the chips we need to know eric nope just that's it that's it it's like man glitter that's cool so this is all you do throw them out now obviously you can decide how much you want to do i mean you could say you know what that looks good just leave it alone and that's the that's the reason for using the uh the colored epoxy that you can you don't have to do 100 if you don't want to you can literally just leave it like that if you like it i do kind of like that i don't i don't know that it needs to be all right a thousand percent full i'm looking for a camo epoxy so that it kind of camouflages all the dirt and all the junk okay so i mean you can see that's yeah fairly easy that is pretty easy look at that because it's wet it's sticking really [Music] nicely yes eric this is looking good man what's our what's our time what did this take us maybe uh well once it was prepped an hour yeah not long at all and how many gallons of uh part a part b do we end up using so we ended up using three kits which is uh four and a half gallons total one and a half gallons per kit right and we got just enough or we have a little bit extra man this looks awesome so he's doing the final roll here and then we'll chip throw this and and then what else for today that's it for today let it dry let it sit up and then we'll come back tomorrow and do the final step tomorrow we'll pick up the excess chips and uh we'll clean it all up and put a coat of clear to protect the chips yeah baby all right okay guys it's been a day mr eric and i are back howdy let's check it out floor is looking good y'all um however one thing eric and i didn't think of is we had a couple leaves kind of blow in overnight what do we do about that eric do i now have a chip and leaf floor rather than just the chip floor and leaf uh no this is fine because i'm gonna scrape the surface anyway yep this is not a problem also it's probably gonna blow off with the leaf blower let's try it by the way if you don't have one of these get you one milwaukee mix absolutely the problem will be if this happens after the clear coat is on because then then they're there forever so we're gonna have to do something here to protect yep get some plastic up and get this uh this big opening kind of sealed off right but uh other than that i mean it's it's looking great i mean this is a nice nice finish that chip looks awesome yeah and there's still some loose chips in here so you mentioned scraping and blowing what's what's that process look like well the chips as you know we threw some down and of course some land on top of others that's excess chips so those are gonna blow off and then when the chips fall into the epoxy some of them they don't all fall flat so we're gonna scrape the surface to make sure that we have the thinnest chip layer as possible then we're going to come back with a clear a clear coat and then that's going to protect the chips and protect the floor overall so look great [Music] okay so andrew and eric came up with a great idea so i'm just cheap polly and then um a couple of small tools and we're going to keep those leaves from blowing in onto my clear actually in one or two places once we get the leaves out we actually left a leaf impression in the epoxy which i think we'll be able to fix and no one will ever see but we certainly don't want those falling into the clear coat so 10 by 100 sheets we're going to run that across the top i got some really good duct tape this is probably much nicer than what i should be using but this is what i had on the job this is good stuff keep this uh t-rex tape handy for all kinds of stuff so i'll t-rex tape it to the brick on the side and then everybody needs one of these bad boys my little arrow stapler to staple up super super easy to make an airtight opening now and we will continue with the clear pair process eric and andrew did a great job of getting a plastic on there so we wouldn't have leaves blown in and eric talk to me about this uh this top coat that we're doing today so this is a polyurethane crown polymers i think it's 8110 and this is a protective coat most people don't realize but polyurethane is actually more scratch resistant than epoxy so that's why we're doing this so this is going to protect your floors and your colored chips if later down the road if for whatever reason your floor gets damaged the surface gets scratches you can come in scuff it up put another coat of clear got it and then it'll be a brand new floor again how different is this from a polyurethane you might use on a hardwood floor uh it's quite actually to be honest i don't know okay uh this is uh it's a cousin at least yeah probably is poly right but they they're they're built different yeah so this is really just a uh mix in the bucket and then roll out with a roller right and this time we worked our way out of the room opposite to what we did before because we started on this end and worked our way back and we're going to be really cautious not to get anything on that top coat that's why we've plasticed we'll shut the door here we'll shut the door into the house we'll put some signs up don't come in um but then i think i talked about this yesterday i'm going to uh put ram board on top of this and then i'm going to let the sheetrocker sheetrock this space will go through construction um and that ram board will protect this floor underneath and that gave us the ability to do things like this you know we got a little bit of um you know for lack of a better term slop up on the sides we didn't have to pay attention to that quite as much because i've got sheetrock and i'm actually considering putting some ac plywood on these walls after sheetrock and maybe even some wood on the ceiling after sheetrock to make a really nice pretty finished garage this is where eric works his way out of the space right here and he's basically seeing this little corner right here hasn't been done yet we're gonna work our way out of the door then we're gonna shut that door behind us and let it hopefully dry overnight untouched this is the critical part because you're putting clear on color and it's especially here not a whole lot of light it's really hard to tell towards the end the parts that you have missed yep and tomorrow it is extremely obvious what you missed today is not so much that's right and that's where if we ended up with a second coat you could fix those sins if we had any of those errors eric this floor turned out money i absolutely love it i'm glad you like it i like i told you this is the perfect way to dress up an old slab yeah there's you cannot tell that there's a 50 year old slab under here and speaking of which eric if you remember from the before i had a giant hole there because this is my hvac closet right and for my og fans out there you remember when there was a bunch of mold there was this huge nasty moldy spot right here the concrete looked terrible you filled that hole we epoxied it now those polyurethanes dry it looks amazing dude well that's the trick right it's it's uh it's it's what you know the other thing i wanted to mention too eric is uh this was your kind of recommendation to put these flakes on i was thinking go all gray epoxy when we first started talking about this and you said you know these flakes are really smart because they uh kind of camouflage the dirt they hide all the flaws right and you're totally right man this garage floor is not flat it's not perfect but your eye sees this kind of one big modeled look correct uh and it's kind of like almost like texture for sheetrock right correct you don't see the imperfections correct so if you if we had done single colored high gloss it just it was extremely hard yeah it's extremely we would have to grind it extremely flat and even then you could probably still see it yeah so this this is a this is why i love the chip floors because they hide so much and they look great i mean they look amazing they also have enough grip that you don't need to put a scent coat down yep so it's a it's a very good it doesn't work it doesn't feel slippery at all for a diy person i mean yeah and as far as the chips as you saw we just just throw chips on throw it out it was kind of a four day process if you remember now it's a long video i realized but uh we had basically two days of prep a data epoxy and a dado polyurethane right and we mentioned this already i'm gonna cover this with ram board we're gonna move on and construction talk to me about if i wanted to do a final coat if i had some scuffing that sort of thing right so as you know you're going to cover it up but construction there's always a possibility that somebody's going to put a scratch on it so at that point if if you do want to recoat it all you have to do is come in with about a hundred grit sanding screen 120 and just go over the whole floor scuff it up and then just put another coat of clear and you're done done love it simple eric you're awesome dude really appreciate it guys if you're not familiar with eric eric's i know him from texas barnum's but you may know him with his whole other life his whole other career he's a professional shooter and he's got a killer channel on that and a really cool patreon page for kind of really insider tips on that so i'll put a link to all of eric's uh info and his instagram feed as well anything else i mentioned on plugging for you eric no man you're good thank you absolutely guys thanks for joining us for this long video but a lot of good stuff here stay tuned for a future video i got a couple of really interesting plans for this garage to really make it sing so look for that future video you know what a nerd i am about the details follow me on twitter instagram otherwise we'll see you next time on the build show

Channel: Matt Risinger

Views: 371,306

Keywords: Matt Risinger, Build Show Network, The Build Show, Build

Id: JNp9PQuT8N8

Length: 25min 56sec (1556 seconds)

Published: Fri May 07 2021