Engraving a dial

[Music] hey welcome back to a shop you might remember when I did the video on my power feed for the quill of the milling machine and back then I said that I'm going to show you how I'm going to do the engraving on the dial because I had to machine the dial down in diameter to make it fit again and that way the original engraving got lost and here we are taking off the hand wheel the knob and pulling off hand wheel as you can see the hand wheel has a short sale group portion and then it's tapered the engraving in this case needs to be on the tapered part because we want a small index finger up here on the belt housing which shows the serum mark and that will show or point at the tapered section so we have to do the engraving graduations and the numbers on an angle I thought about it and normally I do all my graduation work on the engraving machine but not everybody has an engraving machine in the shop and today I want to do it on a milling machine and use the milling machine as an actual shaper to [Music] to cut the graduations then we'll go over to the engraving machine to cut numbers you could also use stamps and a simple fixture or jig to do the to do the numbers with hand stems but I'm not going to do that because I have an engraver okay as I said I'm going to shape the graduations on the milling machine and I found the I think this was boring bore my collection made a long time ago it has a 12 millimeter shank so this can go in a colleague of mine milling machine and it's cross drilled up here for us reading on the tool bit and I have some three millimeter high speed steel cobalt 12 engraving blanks here or in raiding cattle blanks or boring Bowl blanks or whatever you want to call them and we're going to grind a simple shaper tool out of them I'm going to use the small divot grinder and basically we are just grinding a v-shaped grooving tool with about 30 degrees included angle on the tip some clearance behind so we can cut actually and drop and we will cut off a piece and then we will put it in the boring bar okay bro at the grinder and I already have a stream of the color the verb had we are spinning the dividing head to zero degrees left apart up and these high speed steel blanks are already pre ground to almost half off their thickness so they already have a flap and this crime that has an alignment tool but in this case I don't need it and just eyeballing it like this I have the lower joint down here at zero degrees I spin the dividing at by 90 degrees suicide and we're going to just lightly touch the flat that's already ground on the black just give it a very light to touch up [Music] and now we won of course an e shape so we open our this joint here so we can rotate it and we said we want to have 30 degrees included angle but I'm going for 40 degrees just make it a bit more PV okay for the grease and we want about 5 degrees of clearance angle that we set down here now move our work head over and grind the first side of our tool okay now as we ground the first cutting edge we can spin our part 180 degrees around now we can grind cutting edge on the other side of course as the tool is now upside down we have to change the clearance angle in the other direction there we go now just grinding until I get a complete - a nice sharp tip there we go and there is our shaper tool now I'm just going to Nick the high speed steel blank here on the bench grinder and then I'm going to break it off [Music] okay let's take our shaper tool get it inside or tool holder okay there is our cutting tool in the boring bar and I'm aligning the flat of the shaper tool so it's somewhat square to the boring bar or should I say shape a bar then I just cinch down on it there we go now we can go to a newly machine and set it up we're at the milling machine and setup is easy with just take the boring bar and clamp it in a twelve millimeter call it the problem is even when I put the machine back to your lowest gearing I can't turn the spindle but I have a minimum amount of backlash from the spline drive of the spindle and that doesn't help us when we do our actual shaping so we need to lock the spindle in place and I had I was I was thinking about a solution for quite a bit and I didn't put much work into it so i cobbled something together first I just want to use a C clamp on top of the spindle and clam some stuff together to hold the spindle done it but then I realized I have to is more stable for two more C but to adaptive sleeve in the spindle and it has a thread on the end so this wrap is normally to pull the sleeve out of the spindle but in this case I'm a piece of aluminum pipe that fits over the spindle and rests against the quill and after drawn up for de for the sleeve and even when I just can't type this down this will hold the spindle perfectly fine in place without giving it any movement we can even take a spanner wrench and turn it down a little bit done need a lot of torque there but now the Spindler's locked in place of course I have the main power switch of the Machine off and I have also V I haven't unplugged just to be sure I know you don't want to turn off the machine right now this would be catastrophic now we can use the milling machine as a shaper by using the quill just like this next thing is to mount the dial on the rotary table and tilt the rotary table so this tapered surface is vertical so we have to tilt rotary table slightly that way okay that's the setup I came up with I actually just took every key self set up tooling ahead and shop and bolted it together until I had this I have an adjustable angle plate down here that I bolted my rotary table to it I fitted the three cha-cha to the river table and I have an arbor in this reach on track which hole which holds the dial and I already aligned the part for run-out which is roughly two hundredths of a millimeter and now I have to align this tapered section to be perfectly vertical for a first ruffle and adjusted the boring bar turned at 90 degrees so the cutting tool is out of the way and I brought the tool up close to the taper and I had a flashlight behind it checking the light gap between the tapered section here and my tool and I'm already pretty darn close okay there we go that's a that's a pretty good fit already and if you wonder hi do the adjustment I have my helm key here to tighten the clamp of the tilting table now I have to screw check switch push up against the rotary table so when I loosen this all the weight of the rotary table wants to push down on these screw checks and by screwing them in and out then I can adjust the angle okay I'm checking if E is the tapered section of this dial is in line with the quill travel and I have my the Mac based on the quill my indicator against the tapered section I found the high spot in the y-direction now I'm running an indicator up and down it's important to find a high spot otherwise you will get a false reading and now I'm just using the quill handle to move the indicator up and down start here and that's pretty much 100 s of ammonia so we start up here at 11 and we go down to 12 so the whole rotary table needs to fall down us a little bit so I open the clamp here which holds the rotor table I hope I don't mess it up completely I just adjust my screw check down here slightly give the clamps on tension back and check again and it needs probably way much more adjustment on a rotary table as we are very far away from the actual adjustment okay that's that's that not song it's locked angle table in place locked and get the indicator off okay I'll loosen the clamp that hole protects the spindle from rotating right now and I'm setting the tool to be in line with the x-axis of the Machine by running my indicator back and forth and doesn't need to be perfect but I want to get it somewhat close right now we are at okay for hundreds of a millimeter let's bump it slightly I would call that good now I'll carefully tighten up well my lock nut okay that's perfect okay let's do some machine table math here the diet the quill has travel of 2.5 millimeters so travel 2.5 millimeters I want a graduation on the dial graduation of one point of two hundredths of a millimeter per line so that's two point five divided by two hundredths of a millimeter and we get hundred and twenty five lines results in hundred and twenty five lines that means we have 360 degrees / 125 lines equals 360 divided 125 to degree 2.88 degrees now I got my reference book out again which I got a lot of questions on the last video and yes this is available in English of course it's still metric but it you can get this in English and I will drop an Amazon link down in the description and I looked up indirect dividing with a dividing plate and here's the formula because this is a bit harder to figure out this at this time we take our gearing ratio that's also a reason why I brought the fancy calculator down we take our gearing ratio of 92 1 x 2.8 80 degrees which is our spacing between each line and divided by 360 and that gives us 18 25th or something like that that's our actually that's what we have to do on the index plate we take a 25 hold index plate and we move and the spacing between we have to go on is 18 holes between each line that we engrave that's why I love the Casio calculator will see how do they call it a natural display because they show fractions properly 1825 so we we need um 25 hole and X plate and we go on 18 holes for each line okay let's the index that set that came with my rotary table and we have 15 to 20 here and this one starts at 21 23 27 holes so this rotary table has no 25 hole indexed plate and no 50 holes before you say something there is no 25 or multiple of 25 whole index discs in the set I wouldn't be Who I am if I hadn't hadn't just made my own indexing plate and I can remember it as it was yesterday [Music] okay let's stop daydreaming as the index plate 25 holds and I set the sector arm she'll already up to have 18 holes plus one that's the one where the pin is already in and then we go 1 2 3 4 5 X 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 holes on like this we flip the sector arms over we go next 18 holes sector arms never forget the sector arms or you will mess it up and so on and that's basically the indexing for this division of this yeah division okay I moved in five hundredths of a millimeter and I cut my first line just by going down with the quill like this and I'm not sure if 507 millimeters enough and I'm using my precision depth stop so I get all lines to the same length okay let's index 18 holes and cut the next one there we go and next one and I went all around 125 times then I came back and I extended every 5th line so the longer lines resemble point 1 millimeter the short lines resemble point O 2 millimeters and every 50 lines I made an even longer line which resembles point five millimeter intervals so yeah I have zero point five one one point five two and zero which is also two point five because it starts all over you might see this nice chip that got pushed down from the shaping tool and next step will be to take this over to the engraving machine flip it up and do the engraving for numbers I will take this whole set up hopefully and carry it over to the engraving machine this is okay I carry the whole setup over to the engraving machine and I had to tilt the angle table in the other direction because now I'm engraving from above onto the tapered surface that's reason why it's not now standing upright tilted forward and not lying on its back I ran the indicator over the tapered surface to check when I'm leveled with the surface to do my engraving like this and as you can see that's pretty good for engraving this is when I can is when I move off the part but here in the tapered section and perfectly fine I set it up to engrave the first number which will be a zero and I'm using a point at the point eight millimeter ball end mil for engraving this time and we'll see how this comes out that came out beautiful those [Music] okay robot the lathe I took the arbor out of the dividing head and moved it over to the lathe into the collet Chuck and I'm using a lathe file to clean off the burr from shaping the graduations if you don't know a lathe file has its cut at an angle of 45 degree and it's single cut so it doesn't clog up with chips and leaves a very fine surface finish if you don't have one I would recommend you rush out and buy one now [Music] I don't want to take up off a crazy amount of material just to clean up the surface and make the individual lines stay out perfectly fine now we follow up with a piece of very worn down Emery cloth you don't know these guys these are holders for Emery cloth until you rip a strip Emery cloth to length and you get it into this clamp tighten it down and then you have a sanding strip of course made in Germany there we go and of course when you spend cover the bed of your life with something preferable a claw piece of cloth or aluminum foil or whatever you have just keep the grid off the bed which will wear it on your machine and we don't like that as you can see the engraved lines and the engraved numbers come out pretty nice even without having black color in the divisions right now that's next thing we're going to do and as this is a dial that's not going to be used to rehab me I'm using a very simple trick for that okay we start by cleaning it with some isopropyl alcohol just get rid of any schmutz on there under a lot okay should be somewhat clean now I'm taking a permanent marker and I just wrap down graduations with it if this was a more massive and grazing engraving if the lines were deeper I would use some black epoxy use some five minute epoxy use some black pigments to get it black and then fill the lines and machine excess off but these lines are very not very deep graduations are 7.5 hundreds of a millimeter you can't get epoxy or thick paint into them the the felt tan worked my experience the best for something like this you can also just rub in dirt from your fingers into the graduations but that's not very professional so now we let it let the solvent flesh off and once the solvent is off you we have to remove the excess paint and most people would use Emery cloth right away but that doesn't work at all you will get a break the steel and the fine steel dust gets into the internet' engraving and makes the black paint somewhat silver version that looks stupid another trick is to use an alcohol rag with some alcohol on it to wipe off the excess and that way you remove most of the paint out of thing cravings too but I found out works the best is just a piece of normal 80 gram per square meter copy paper dry without anything on it it's just like a mild abrasive for super mild abrasive and we just rub it on than raving and it works magic [Music] there we go that looks like a second-class job to me I like it and don't get into the idea that you could just spray some clear lacquer over it solvent and the clear lacquer will make the black paint reactivated and it yeah it messes everything up don't do it okay robot the milling machine and I have the dial back in place and also made a third degree marker which I will show you in a second but first I want to show you the dial and how we mount it to shaft of course you want to be able to spin it freely but it should also stay in place when you needed to stay in place so I drilled and tapped a hole here a formula thread and I cut a very short piece of three millimeter or ring stock which is some kind of a rubber and this goes into the 4 millimeter thread then I follow up with a four millimeter set screw just like this and I give it some tension and that way the the dial is moving together with the shaft it's firmly in place but due to the friction of the rubber and it's a lista City it's very easy and very nice to change the position of the dial I wouldn't do this on something merging extremely important that the dial station plays like on the cross slide of a lathe but in this case and I don't intend to use the style a whole lot but if I need to I have one there for that for this purpose the rubber break in the set screw hole works perfectly fine and I don't think that I will get in trouble with this but I would not use it on the lathe on the cross slide for example and here you can see again the dial and the serial marker buff this is just a piece of cool steel machine - the shape engraved a zero line and serve as a number and it's mounted with the screws at oldest cover in place that's perfectly fine and I made sure that there is about 1/10 of a millimeter gap between the serie mark and the actual dials that doesn't drop so I hope this project dialed you in on the topic of styles thank you all for watching and see you next time you [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 108,755

Rating: 4.9486017 out of 5

Keywords: dial, skalenring, skala, scale, shaper, opti mb4, optimum mb4, rf45, angle plate, winkeltisch, deckel g1l, engraving machine, engraver, pantograph

Id: jyNed1SyGR4

Length: 35min 45sec (2145 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 06 2017