Making small sine bars Part 2 - Herstellung kleiner Sinuslineale Teil 2

Hey come back to a shop we are still working on the small sign bars and you saw me just roughing down the excess material from the sock up when we sliced up the profile into single individual sign bars and now I change the end mill or the the shell mill to a brand new reground shell mmm and we're going to finish cut it at first I wanted to side mill all the surfaces all the faces and this in this face but yeah I decided to give it a nice the Sutter's already finished a nice fine mill surface face melt let's drop it in the vise and I'm not sure if I mentioned this already if you have one of these granny Weiss is the single most useful thing you could get or should get is a t-handle del wrench to to tighten down and when you're working small parts this gives also a nice plastic hammer to tap down your part on Karla's but as this is a more massive peat workpiece I'm using a copper drift and by this sound I can tell if I'm firmly against parallels after the machine run at 500 rpm that's a bit high for this 40 millimeter shell and mill but we are taking only a 5 hundredths of a millimeter cut that's a very light cut and we don't produce a lot of heat and we should be fine and it leaves a great finish okay sambar gets a single seven millimeter hole in the center so I can screw it against the angle plate or a setup block or something like that to make for a rigid set up so it doesn't move around and I don't even bother with sander thrilling or yeah nothing I am using a stop length drill choked up in a collet and we're drilling straight through five hundred sixty rpm and some cutting are there you go and I set up a stop and a leaf spring between parallel so setup time is very low just clean up the dirt if you're that far in a project you really want to make sure you have no dirt on your rice choice otherwise you would press in dirt into your finished surface and that really sucks so be careful okay our sign bars need of course a 45-degree threaded hole in this corner so we can screw in our roll us and I'll do it how do you set it up you could do it and wise with 45-degree angle piece but that would be fine for one but I have to do six and it's juice rabbit holes so twelve yeah quite a lot of setup and I came up with my mind the better setup I have a one two three block which is shop mate or yeah I made it when I had access to a surface grinder which has six millimeters threaded holes square all over ground and blah blah blah it's quite nice I bolted it to the table and I have a 45 90 degree we block in front of it clamped it to the table so it doesn't move and I can just drop my part into the V and push it up against the angle block or the setup block and take a single six momen up and clamp it in place and that's my setup now I can locate this position up here and yeah drone tap it and maybe we can even do the lower one in the same setup but it might be a bit yeah we might get in current issues with the block here maybe we have to redo the set up please okay let's have another drill 2.5 millimeter for a three millimeter threat I set the depth I set the texture of my meal so we don't break through on the other side and for tapping I'm not going to power sweat this this is too dangerous for my mind or at least for such a small run I could set the the auto stop on another machine to do the rigid tapping but I'm not going to do it we're going to hand tap I just clamped the tap in a tap handle on the shank and I'm using the chuck as a tapped follower I lock the quill and then I loosen the truck so I can freely rotate the tap with the handle but still have enough guidance to get tap straight in some cutting oil and off we go and this is a spiral flute machine tap so we don't have to break the chip as you can see it pulls out the chip quite nicely out of the hole in fact when you break the chip with one of these tabs during tapping it can cause problems it can catch or jam up the tap in the hole and you might end up with a broken or broken tap there we go back it off we don't need a whole lot of thread in there one times diameter deep is still good enough okay there we go one done five to go okay to drill the lower mounting hole I had to move the whole set up by one whole distance first I used the right right row of holes now I'm using the left row of holes and also I have to use the ER 11 extension chuck in a er in a big yard 25 color Chuck to get enough clearance down here for for the clamping nut so let's change parts I already did five I'm doing the last one and I switched on the air compressor to have some compress it's nice to be able to clean out setups with air if you do it with some yeah if you aren't idiot when you use the compressed air don't don't aim the compressed air at bearing shields or directly at slide ways or stuff like that don't blow chips over to the next machine we're guys working yeah just yeah common sense when using compressed air and don't run it at six bar or some psi a little bit of errors most of the time enough to get a nice set up clean so that's real and I found out that I don't really need to center drill the drill finds its spot very well and it's a good idea to use a rack behind the part when you blow weight chips and oil just to catch most of it yes I don't do it at work because I work on a fully enclosed CNC machine and I only can blow the chips against the guards in the machine of course I also don't direct the air against the high speed spindle in the machine because it has only labyrinth seals but again common sense and the home shop by holding a rag or your hand which is bad practice of course behind the air gun keeps the yeah the mess down to a minimum okay now for tapping I decided to power captain because why not it's a three millimeter thread that's fine to Paris red even if it's blunted I set the dial indicator on the depth stop so I know when I have to shut off the machine and then and cranking it until we reach the lower end so cutting oil there we go now we can disengage the gears and okay that's it that's way nicer than hand tap you should have done it on you on the other holes - okay I prepared blanks for the rollers of the sign bars this is ten millimeter drill rod and each of these blanks will give me two rollers I will still need to drill and counter bore them then I'm going to harden them as one piece then I'm going to grind grind the outer diameter so they are nice and round and true on the lathe with the tool post grinder and then we're going to cut off this roller from the remaining stock with yeah maybe we just break it off and clean up the broken surface or we use a small cut off disk or now we will see and then we're done and we can screw the roller into the sign bar like this and like this and we're good to go so your role at the milling machine and we're grilling the stepped hole in the rollers I hope you can see this I'm doing a deep fortify 45 degree counter bore countersink and drill it through with a 3.1 millimeter drill for clearance screw clearance and to speed things up I use a starter drill that I ground down to four point three millimeters and which has a ninety degree point to give me the counter bore to the right depth and the right diameter and then I follow up with a regular twist drill to grow a clearance hole for the screw and the setup is simple I'm using the V and the vise as this is just a screw clearance hole I'm using the vi push part in from the side against the stop clamp it then I have my starter grill which I ground down on the tool grinder and I set my deck stop on the mill to write the mount when I butt up the tool against the backstop in the grill chuck okay on the board canta canta sunk and now we drill through with a 3.1 millimeter drill there we go okay here you can see a pair of rollers with the cardboard hole and this is the screw where I turned down the head to four millimeters and as you can see this goes below the surface and looks quite neat doesn't build up doesn't need a big old counterbore like a a cap screw or a yeah a standard irregular screw so that's a reason why my five screws and the main reason why I do this is so I get as much material left and right off the screw hole as possible and I think that's the best solution I didn't want to grow through from the other side of the sign bar into the rollers because I wanted the top surface of the sign bar to be without any holes okay we're going to harden these I'm not going to fire up the oven for these six little buggers I'm just using the oxyfuel torch okay and reduc went in done in Westham oil and last one let's go okay we were at the lake and you're grinding the roller shorty sign bar and my setup is the following I have my magnetic Chuck on the spindle and I clamped a V block to the magnetic Chuck or in fact it's stuck on there I thought up by tool post grinder and I'm running a cubic boron nitride a cbn grinding wheel because you don't have to dress them which makes for very little dirt they look like a diamond wheel but it's not diamond it's cubic boron nitride which works for hardened steel you should not grind soft steel with those wheels because it will break down very fast in fact you can dress this wheel with soft steel if it's running out slightly you can grind a piece of soft steel for sometime and then you have you dressed the wheel so normally you would only grind hard and steel with it not carbide carbide would also ruin the Negreanu wheel and I'm not using a normal Lumina marcasite grinding wheel because of the dirt that would be caused from dressing with a diamond grinding is messy enough anyway so I don't have to do any yeah dressing and as this is a cup wheel I offset the tool post grinder in that direction so I'm brightening I'm running along the defendi the side surface of the wheel the circumflex let's take one of the hardened roller pairs we set it up in the Vblock just clamp it in there and then we check for run out because I'm shooting for nine point eight millimeter starting diameters ten millimeters so I have point two millimeters on there and if there is much run out the surface might not clean up completely okay yeah we got pretty much pretty exactly 0.2 millimeter from out now I'm just taking a copper drift I look for a high spot which is here and that tab it okay almost sir run out okay lathe is running at above 200 rpm and trying to restore I'm taking cuts of about 0.02 2.05 millimeters safety glasses first up okay I'm pretty much down to size now we can check the diameter and it seems like the batteries of my digital mics is getting empty and we are at 9.8 five so we have five hundredths or a millimeter to go you okay now we should be at to hundreds of a millimeter remaining stock this is just a quick idiot check yeah nine point eight two two so two hundreds to go okay we should be on diameter okay nine point eight oh five that's five thousandth of a millimeter oversize and now we're going to hit it with some 3m superfinishing fill just because we can shouldn't have removed much material 8:03 8:04 looking good now we can take the part flip it around and grind the other side and they of course they don't need to run true to each other as well we'll cut them off here later the only thing when I reek lamp it on the other side I like to put a piece of brass between so the clamping screw doesn't hit directly on my freshly ground surface just snug it up okay the safety guys will love the setup I'm going to cut off the rollers from the remaining stock here and I'm using a 1 millimeter cutoff disk in the tool-house grinder and as I didn't have washers groundwaters with a certain on the board I just stacked up two additional smaller Gras cutting discs behind my big cutting disc earning delay at about 200 rpm and the topos grinder at some rpm and if you're not sure about the setup and your think that it might send shrapnel to your face don't do it that's common sense let's line it up there we go we have clearance everywhere good to go there we go nobody died perfect safe okay I finished all the grinding on the rollers after sine bars as you can see and I test fitted them all together the screws I'm using our four millimeter countersunk screws which which set I turn down to four millimeter so I end up with this very small counter sunk hole in the roll-ups and as you can see they look quite good I'm very happy how they came out next step will be to set them up on shaper to level them out and do a finishing cut on the surface up here you

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 36,535

Rating: 4.9750519 out of 5

Keywords: sine bar, sinebar, sinuslineal, winkelmesser, härten, rundschleifen, toolpost grinder, tpg, cylindrical grinding, hardening, supportschleifer

Id: xsc9R1yObJI

Length: 29min 38sec (1778 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 21 2016