Solid Indicator Stand - Part 1

[Music] hey welcome back am i guess it we're talking about indicator stands there are different flavors of indicator stands every size form factor fine adjustment you will find what you want but it's hard to find an indicator stand that doesn't suck even the well praised Noga indicator stands or me if you go into detail on them I have an ogre a small one it's a nice indicator stand but when you want to do real precise measurement it gets absolutely annoying which is the fact with pretty much all of these central locking 360 degree articulating indicator stands there are no it's very convenient and for most of the work they are pretty good but once you start to use the fine adjustment here they suck the fine adjustment on these is built pretty pretty horrendous the swivel point is back here the adjustment screws here and the measuring point is here so the lever from here to here is stupid long compared from here to here so a little bit of movement on the screw moves the end of the indicator here half a meter up or down what you think that's quite annoying if you want to set a few thousands of a millimeter I'll test indicator to zero or to a convenient number and also these swivel type fine adjustments here they have side to side slop they have to have side to side slop otherwise they would be rigid there is a pretty heavy spring under it so most of the time you will not notice the the side-to-side wiggle because it gets pushed too one or the other side but when you move when you try to indicate something that's moving perpendicular to the fine adjustment you will see strange effects on your dial test indicator the measurement will jump if you change that a retro for example stuff like that also these central locking ones while they are very convenient to adjust they are not very rigid by themselves they have this tiny tiny time that are down here that screws into the magnet and this is the further this this is a very small cross section and the cross section of a part determines its stiffness that and the mod you module of elasticity so you have a very small diameter down here and the relatively large lever as you can see and yeah it's flexible to make matters worse they the the top surface of competitors paint that then they put a nice springy washer on top doesn't help either mr. Robin Arryn SETI was nice enough to show the indicator stand that he built many many years ago he felt them on Instagram and also he took took it apart and showed some of the construction details so I will definitely link the Instagram link to those two short videos of him showing the details on the indicator sent down in the description and I felt that the design of this indicator stand is superior to pretty much anything that fissile or yeah ever anybody else bills so I ripped him off I took a close look at this indicator stand and I made a caps drawing fired up on shape and drew this up which is basically his indicators then with a few minor touches of mine but it's his the sign so I didn't sign this guy I just painted it I ordered two of these magnets from Noda 50 by 50 by 60 millimeter switching magnets which are two a month to my annoyance also painted on the top side so why for why would you paint the top surface of a magnet which is used to mount something like a measuring tool or an indicator or whatever you want to mounted rigid and you put paint on the mounting surface yeah that's yeah will will surface ground it grind this and gift is a good surface I had also ordered some hardened shafting this is hardened and centerless ground hardened and chrome plate that I think case hardened and the inside is soft so I was able to drill out the end and tap it m8 so I can screw it on top of the magnet this is there's a 16 millimeter diameter compared it to the fissile stand and you see the difference the crossbar the smaller crossbar will be 12 millimeters which is still larger diameter than the main column of this indicator and also larger cross section then these here and these are aluminum which is three times more flexible with the same cross section than steel so you want to go for a steal not for aluminum so I have teeth there's a I just cut them with the angle grinder face them off on both ends which works with a sharp carbide insert you can face the case hardens shafting without a problem and it really tapped it it's soft on the inside so that's not a problem and next part I want to make is the fine adjustment in front here drawing here this is basically Roberts design we have a long slit down here with a hole with a long hole a flexure and the adjustment screw is back here the flexor is here and the indicator mounts here so the the proportions of the lever or to our advantage and not like in this design to our disadvantage it should be able to hold a normal indicator of the eight millimeter stem in here the lower portion will hold the indicator the upper portion will be rigid and compared to sit this design this has a swivel but Robins design has a ball a ball swivel a ball joint so I ordered some 10 millimeter bearing balls hardened chrome stall chrome steel bearing balls little hearts drilled and formulas and with a lock type and to the end of this fine adjustment mechanism so we can create a proper ball joint the flexure this fine adjustment will be hardened because hardening the tool steel will increase the range of the Flex true otherwise you will reach the end of the elasticity range and move into plastic deformation and you don't want to deform this part plastically you want to move it you want to be in the elastic range so hardening is what we will do something like 45 to 50 Rockwell C should be fine I have a piece of ten by ten two millimeter tool steel 127 67 which I will show after camera upside down down here the designation after steel so you can look it up what I'm using here so let's cut this piece of steel to length and yeah do some machining on it [Music] removing the Morse taper to adapter and spin love my middle so I can use a more state before call it Chuck nice piece on your 590 before college Chuck made in Poland really like the B's on to absolutely high quality tooling for a very reasonable pricing a quick thing about precision round flat stock or gauge stock or grant to seal or whatever it's very parallel ground pretty much any pretty much any piece of tool steel that is Blanchard ground is nice and parallel but the stock is anything from square that means while these are parallel and these are parallel ease and these are not square to each other sometime in stuff it doesn't matter sometimes you have to take it into account and machine at square so what I'm doing this I take this stock and the Y's very deep so I like I clamp on two parallel surface on a very large area and that way and I clamp it and I machine over the top surface the top surface will be automatically Square to the side surface then I can flip it around and machine the other side parallel to this side that we just square that and I'm we can't machine the whole thing to size now as we have streetlights squared up we can flip the part around I change to hire to hire parallel or taller parallel and when we clamp it now knock it down on the parallel we will cut we will end up with four square sides notice that I did not knock down the part and the first setup because the surface that was resting on the parallel was not square so might have warped something [Laughter] okay I put the Vblock Chuck on the lathe and thus entered the pieces of material that I prepared earlier our machine square to size and to length and we need a round spigot on the end were the 10 ohm in the bearing ball will get glued on to so took my trusty Vblock Chuck only one in the world I think put it on the lathe Center apart and now we can turn down the square cross section to a four millimeter round spigot [Music] the nice thing about the Vblock shock is that is very repeatable and take the part out never copper shim in there so Dee clamp does not destroy the edge of the part I can just clean it out drop into the next part I have my copper shim and gauge block in here in the back as a depth stop clamp it down and it should be pretty much on center just as the last part okay before I continue on with the indicator holder I'm drilling the bearing balls to go on the end of the spigot here I will already drilled this one and it's a nice tight fit these are of course relatively hard at sixty five-plus Rockwell seed but even that's not a real problem with a solid carbide drill bit and the solid solid carbide drill will also create very precise diameter and a very good finish on the hole so let's get this clamped up and drill the second one I'm clamping the ball between copper and brass shim stock so I don't do not Brunel my wife's jaws you never want to clamp something with something like a ball that puts a point load between your hard jaws of your wife no matter if it's a grinding Weiss or Acker twice or whatever you will leave imprint an imprint in the jaw so put something in between and I happen to like copper and brass shim stock for that purpose okay that's pretty darn good this is also the beauty of tea this indicator clamp because you can use it with the tool and spindle full of carbide drill running at thousand rpm dry there we go one hole in a bearing ball looks like this still needs to be Deibert a normal account the thing will of course not cut into hardened ball bearing it will be in the other way around the bearing will cut into the compass thing so we have to use something else what works very well is for example a small winding stone in a and a rotary tool this happens to be a diamond but I'm running very slow so I can also grind steel with it without having to fear of burning up the diamond there we go get it deeper okay drilling all the holes and milling the flexure hole the flexor hole is three millimeter wide and it's a slot my first plan I had only a hole to create the Flex tree but Robin recommended to make it a slot to create a beam section of a continuous cross-section so we don't get any stress rises in the bent area and that's what I did we're going to machine this with a long stream of a carbide end mill and remaining features are only drilling and tapping oh and I pulled out the the parallels to sides so the part is only resting on the ends of the parallels so it can drill through deep slotting our manual milling machine takes its time you don't want to do a shabby job and in this case doesn't look too terrible so but paid off to go only 0.5 millimeters per pass in depth and you have to be very careful not to to overrun the ends of the slots so either dial indicators or even better at dro on the milling machine are very helpful for such operations ok I cut the dovetail in the end of the part so it accepts a standard dial test indicator with the 5 millimeter dovetail nice close fit you have to be careful when you make these tough tails the tolerances on the indicators on the dovetail that are part of the housing are relatively sloppy so make it with a little bit of wiggle room and I tried all my dowel testing kids that I have and they all fit so or so a little bit over here you can see the cutter I used I showed this earlier when I built my squareness cooperator this is a single flute 60-degree dovetail cover and I grounded out of a broken carbide end mill and it works quite well you have to be very careful as the corner down here is very delicate so no heavy cuts of course but it works nice and tool steel ok now we're cutting the long slit for the flexure I did this one already cut it with a point seven five millimeter carbide saw blade on the milling machine and it's already nice and springy which will even be better when we harden it because we will get a larger range of elasticity if it's hardened so the saw blade I have is doesn't cut deep enough so I cut all the way around and then I finish the cut with a handsaw but the the machine cut slit gives a good guidance for the handsaw so it doesn't look like crap and the way I did it I laid out the the cut line lay out blue and a scrapped line and I place a parallel in front of the part I sight across the parallel until the scribed line is in line with the parallel you could also do it other ways but I find this method very reliable and very fast and the nice thing is I know that the scribed line is exactly the thickness of my parallel away from the Wyss so now I can touch off on the top of the Pearl above my salt late rub the saw blade behalf its thickness and then my soul blazer is exactly on the center line of the salt of the scrap line here this being a carbide saw blade I can run it quite fast 560 RPM no need for lubrication [Music] [Music] okay got my hook miniature hacksaw out this is a very narrow blade so it will slip into the 0.75 millimeter saw kerf I produced before my bigger hacksaw have a point eight five millimeter so I would have to recut the whole slot that's the reason why I use two puck there we go okay I got the indicator holder with the fine adjustment thumb as you can see long slit for the flexure good fine adjustment and here a support slit to clamp I adore the battle test indicator or a big indicator back here the fine adjustment screw will go and I still have to drill out the lower hole and remit to four millimeter after I hardened DS I will press or glue in a four millimeter bearing ball which will give a nice hard point-contact against the adjustment screw and will make for a very crisp adjustment I really like the design of the Sun adjuster or clamp it has a lot of features built in in a very small package so my hat is off to mr. n 34 that's the sign I think the the fact that the adjustment screw is so far away from thee from the actual hinge point of flexure point is a big advantage in takes off this adjustment okay now it's the finer gestures almost done I started to machine the ball joint itself the ball joint consists of two clam shell like parts that clamp around the ball at the end of the final gesture here just like this right now I'm in the process of cutting this slot here through which the the stem on the end of the final Chester can swivel into to allow for a side-to-side movement okay this is the setup on a non machine I have to narrow parallels down in here to give my own real clearance between them gates block is super glued to the back of the fixed jaw to give me a positive stop and I'm taking a full slotting cut five point five millimeters deep with a formula of the carbide end mill I will slop in move out and take a point two five millimeter clean up pass all the way around okay here I'm cutting a relief for the center of the ball joint with an eight millimeter carbide end mill which I'm just plunging down this for flu Denville I'm using is really not very well suited for this job I would prefer a free flu derp but I have not a single 8-millimeter three flu 10mil most of my another six or ten millimeters so even limited is very unusual for me and I have to make do with what I have here here I'm plunging the ball seat for the for a ball with a ten millimeter carbide is scour ball end mil into the part running relatively slow 580 rpm and some cutting oil and I have to lock of the quill slightly tightened so nothing gets out of control [Music] okay I have to ball-shaped counterbore in each of the clamshell parts that put them together with a spare 10 millimeter bearing ball in between so the parts are aligned against each other and this makes it very easy to drill and ream the six millimeter hole in the back of these parts this is the connection to the two 12 millimeter odd of the indicate first and later well let's change our setup we don't need the superglue step anymore so we can knock it off and clean the remaining superglue of a razor blade in most cases you don't need acetone or something like that to clean off stupid glue from round machines surfaces razor blade is all you need and I really like the superglue work stops they are fast you can put them wherever you want and you can make them as low profile as you want often I just use a piece of shim stock that are glued to the top of the wise and pump my parts up against or I have very thin rod in here whatever works but often a massive work stop on the side of device with a a huge rod sticking in just is not the right thing for small work okay we're over the surface grinder it just saw me filing the radius I didn't dare to mill the radius because the part is a bit unstable on the end that I didn't want to risk a catch with a five millimeter radius and mill around over and mill those run relatively harsh so I filed the radius and now we take off point five millimeters of the inside of these parts so they can actually clamp on the ball and the round shaft [Music] [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 82,829

Rating: 4.9490943 out of 5

Keywords: indicator stand, messstativ, mess stativ, stativ, surface grinder, harden, hardening, noga, fisso, optimum mb4, flachschleifmaschine, f45, rf45, zx7045, stefan gotteswinter

Id: 37TLOf3GWwM

Length: 33min 52sec (2032 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 29 2017