John Deere 2940 Tractor | Head Gasket Replacement - Part 1

[Applause] howdy folks welcome back this is a John Deere tractor and it's got a problem in case you're not following what I'm doing here that's a rubber glove that I taped on to where the radiator cap would normally be plugged off the little vent line there started it up and it took all of what 20 seconds to fill up that glove so it's getting combustion gas in the cooling system I suspect it's got a bad head gasket it could be a crack in the head could be a crack in the block it could be a pinhole in one of the piston liners I don't know the owner tells me that he's drained the oil and there's no coolant in the oil something's blown somewhere but usually when it's like that when it's a one-way path only it's a head gasket but I don't know for sure either way I'd say we're gonna take the head off because you know there's obviously something majorly wrong there's no other way for combustion gases to get into the cooling system this is an old tractor well this is a what we call a Mannheim tractor it's at 29 40 John Deere built in Mannheim Germany it's a kind of like an updated version of a 40 20 so about 80 horsepower tractor no turbo but this would have been built I suppose in the early 80s and you know there's no easier coolers or anything like that I don't even know if these have oil coolers so there's a better shot of it the hood was already off when I got it and it runs fine starts right up no misfires the guy has no complaints about how it runs it just pukes out coolant from the radiator German built tractor 29:40 there's the tag there says right on it maiden made in Germany this is a really nice tractor nice tractor so kind of the same hitch setup as a 40 20 it's got a roll cage on it with the canopy seats pretty well shot different totally different shifter setup so the shifter setup is in the platform I noticed this one's got something wrong with that I can turn the shaft so there must be a pin broken somewhere in there and I think it's got a high-low so lots of gear ranges then we got a big oil leak here too and said it's coming out of the column so probably some kind of a power steering hose or seal is blown I'll have to figure that out but that's less important than the the major issue here well I don't normally wash things before I work on them even though everyone in the comments always tells me I should but this thing was pretty crusty and you know my attitude is that since you cracked the engine open it's gonna be a grease ball anyway so why waste your time washing it anyway there's exceptions to every rule well that's just see there's any water and it should be at the bottom you're looking bringing it all [Applause] he's right there's no coolant in the oil at all so that's good that leads me to think it's probably not a hole in the liner because normally that would just leak you know gravity would pull the clean it down to the oil it's probably not a cracked head so I think we're just looking at a head gasket I don't really know any more definitive way to tech to test for that you know what I mean so the only other test we could do is stick our head gasket test around here it's filled with filled with a special fluid that changes color when it senses combustion gas but you know where else is the gas coming from we know it's combustion gas so there's nowhere that the exhaust you know exhaust and coolant meet other than in at the head gasket or you know one of the liners so that would be a waste of time in my opinion let's just pull it apart well I guess we should probably have one of those things what's it called a plan yeah plan so I'm thinking it'd be nice to leave this exhaust manifold on so let's try to do that we'll take the muffler whole deal off the top I shouldn't be too bad four bolts on one clamp should just pick that whole thing up off the top the intake manifold that won't hurt anything we'll leave it in place I'll have to take the injector lines off well so we'll leave the pump sorry but we'll take the injector lines completely off the engine and then the water pump should be able to stay this thermostat housing should come with the head and it shouldn't be too bad I know the valve cover gasket leaks so we're gonna replace that while we're at it but yeah this shouldn't be a terrible job get the coolant out of it and we'll start fiddling with that muffler well that certainly opens it up should have taken that muffler off before I power watched it to have gotten a little bit cleaner anyway looking at this manifold some of the bolts are actually loose so look and that might not be too bad to take off and if we do that you might be able to take the injector lines loose at the injectors and leave them at the pump because that can be a real bear getting on the backside of there and always the one that won't seal up is the one on the backside so let's try that the manifold bolts are all oily it seems kind of odd what the hell came out no problem a lot of those manifold bolts were finger tight or actually completely loose which I've noticed as a common problem on older diesel engines this thing seems to be from that horrible period in the 80s and early 90s where they they couldn't decide if they were inch or metric [Applause] [Applause] [Music] all right that's always a pain seems to happen a lot happened on that secret for cliff we worked on two still fresh in my memory you get so hot pup we got there chasing critters that's got a pet in the side of the block to drain the coolant from the block so I went ahead and crack that open hopefully we get a little bit less of it on our [Music] anybody at the peen yet [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] I was always taught that you keep the pushrods rocker arms bridges everything like that in order and you put it back in the same hole that it came out of some guys say it doesn't matter some guys say it's life-critical truth is probably somewhere in the middle but this is what I do that's it well that probably doesn't matter too much on this head because it's a pretty big beefy chunk of cast iron but it's usually good practice to kind of loosen your your head bolts gradually starting from the outside working towards the middle so you see I kind of did it in two steps probably not that big deal on this tractor but you know I got an aluminum head on a car or something that's usually how I do it and a lot of times you'll find that an impact is pretty much useless on head bolts because they're so long that you lose all your torque so I go I crack them loose usually by hand and then holds it mouth with the impact well it's thermostat housing had to come off there's a tube that connects to it okay get a scoop come on better scoop than that keep going that's good okay come on over here come on over here this side okay can you write it on the floor underneath the tractor good job good job you know okay put the scoop away we're done put it back okay can you find the lid and put the lid on the trash can it's over there somewhere yep can you put that on turn it over there we go just like Oscar the Grouch good job hey hi there's the gasket so it looks like and I don't know if I did this when I took it apart or if this is how it was but looks like we're blown out pretty good here on cylinder 4 and then we've also had up a blowout on back on cylinder 6 and if you pull the head gasket out of here there's a spot right there looks like it may have been blowing past and then right here doesn't look very good and right here doesn't look very good but the cylinders look pretty decent the liners there's not really a ridge at the top that can catch your finger just a little bit of carbon if the our meters right this tractors got 14,000 hours on it so I don't know if it's been rebuilt before or not that's a lot of hours but I mean you can still see a little bit of the crosshatch in that liner but there's nothing wrong with the engine I mean the bottom end of it looks pretty good oh so bottom side of the cylinder head tells pretty much the same story here's cylinder number 6 there's that same spot kind of discolored spot looks like maybe not a great spot there on five and what else do we have yeah look at that spot there on cylinder number four so I think that's it head gasket was just bad this is a carbide scraper I think it's awesome actually got two of them they're sold by Lyle I'm not sure if they make them or if they contract through a super scraper pretty sure this is a super scraper design I'll try to put a link in the description they're fantastic for work like this where you're dealing with a flat nice flat machined surface I'd be careful on aluminum surfaces but on cast iron you can go hog-wild so the big thing here is just be careful with your injector tips it's really no reason to get into this section of the head other than to knock the carbon off you see it doesn't look too bad the carbon buildup really isn't bad on this engine a lot of times on what we call chore tractors you know these just tractors that just plot around and get a lot of idle hours to get carbons up really bad you know these this tractors 35 years old it's not going out in the field and pulling a plow every day so a lot of times they don't even work hard enough to get warmed up and burn the carbon off the bells my dad did a 30 20 years ago I said the exhaust ports were choked down to about a half-inch diameter okay so if you ask 10 mechanics what they used for surface prep you're gonna get 10 different answers they're probably all correct it's just a personal preference so this is what I like to use on a cast iron head is these little bristle wheels they're made by 3m so they have the roll lock adapter bristle disc they call it so there's different colors that correspond basically to different grits so I believe the yellow is fairly aggressive there's green and white and who knows anyway I like to use the yellow one for cast iron it's probably a little bit aggressive for aluminum what we're going to do is we'll clean this up as best we can with this abrasive wheel and then we'll use a stone [Music] [Music] a couple tips with these bristle discs and it it's kind of true for the the scotch-brite discs as well oil really messes them up it just causes causes the surface to get streaked and you can't tell whether it's really clean or not so best to just remove any old oil so as far as actual technique just keep the thing moving you don't want to stay in one spot very long and if you start seeing sparks that's that's not good it means you're taking off metal don't want to take off metal we just want to take off the crud so the bigger the better - this is a three inch disc the two inch ones I think are too small for this large surface [Music] so don't try to get the surface to visually look perfect you just want to make sure that it's smooth you know there's always gonna be a little pits and imperfections that you cannot get out unless you actually machine the surface of the head so don't go crazy okay the last step we're gonna use a stone this is a round stone it's got two sides there's a coarse side and a fine side we're gonna use a little bit of a light oil this is wd-40 well the oil keeps the stone from getting loaded up so all this is gonna do is just take off any little high spots again don't hit your injectors like there's any nicks in the bottom of the head or you know we damaged it somehow pulling it apart just stone will take care of that I don't know what grit the stone is I'm sure it's a Norton stone I probably brought it from Zorro now you can buy these from any company that sells machinist supplies MSC or master car rangers or oh you could try a knife sharpening stone if you like I don't know that the quality of those is that great I'm checking the cylinder head for flatness the spec is like four thousandths over the total length of the head what's at 0.1 millimeters and where 0.01 millimeters and about one thousandth so 0.2 zero to five millimeters over the any-any section about a long 12 inch 300 or meter section and it's right at that so there's four thousandths it goes under there's five thousand so that will not this straight edge is accurate to a few tenths it's very accurate so we're probably okay as far as flatness goes so that groove corresponds to the wall of one of these aluminum compression rings from the head gasket and right now it's hope you guys will be able to see this indicator move it's almost four thousand deep as far as I can tell that groove it's like all of the exhaust valves are sunk about twenty thousand well between fifteen and twenty thousand they're supposed to be twenty three to forty seven thousand s below the surface and most of them are measuring 65 to just over seventy so that's pretty normal there's exhaust valves on a nice lunge and just take a beating I would bet that he's not going to want to fix that so really the only thing that concerns me on this head is the the groove that's worn in it and I really don't think that'll be a huge problem either take it oh you're stuck yeah the ring the wind blew it out will you I know you have to open the door kiddo Hey pull the door and then you can get it pull pull pull pull pull do you want help okay so like I was saying I don't think that that ring will really hurt anything because it's just at the very inside of this compression ring in the head gasket so it has the whole width of this surface here yeah kiddo can you wait just a minute please I'm trying to finish up the video so there's still the whole width of this compression ring here so I don't think that's gonna hurt anything so we're gonna tell the customer what we found make our recommendations to fix this right it needs probably new valve seats or if it doesn't have replaceable seats it needs valve seats installed and probably new exhaust valves all the valves ground and the head surfaced but I would bet dollars to donuts that this heads gonna go right back on just like it is like at the top of the block cleaned up I'm just checking the liner protrusion so I put some hold downs here to keep the liner's bottomed out against the counterbore and the spec is one to four thousand these seem to be okay so I usually just check them in four places but probably they sink down pretty evenly or they'll sink down more on one side than the other side you don't usually get them this way it's it's this way anyway I don't think that the these engines have a big problem with the liners sinking you know certain engines like is X Cummins or C 15 cat engines have you know they they often have problems with the liners sinking down and there's only there's a couple ways you can fix that you can surface the top of the block you can cut the counter bores deeper and add shims or in some cases they actually sell liners that have a thicker shoulder we shouldn't have to do any of that malarkey on this thing it's good to go so anyway guys I think I'm gonna leave it here for now I've gotta wait a few days to get parts parts are coming through the dealership but I think they're going to be out market parts they're probably Ani parts so it takes a couple days for them to come in and I want to touch base with the customer see what he wants to do at the cylinder head probably were going to put it back on just as it is but I want him to make that call so I think we'll cut the video here and we'll pick up again in part two hopefully putting everything back together first question have you ever used a sawzall before okay success I don't feel like anyone should be near me when I'm doing this well good news everyone's near you yeah definitely going luck it's your audition tape from this old house you're the next Roger cook how's your Boston accent pack the car and have it yeah we're talking about frames and I was like you know what I think I actually do know how to do a door frame because I've seen this old house so many times yes I forced her to watch this old house you know what I like it I don't like to watch like 12 hours of it in a row don't pull the trigger that's got a bass right here yeah you need the branch to be pushed up against the base otherwise it's just gonna vibrate with the blade well you should've told me that before you gave it to me and I can't get it up again push push push forward okay I didn't even hit this off hold it here or do I hold it here and do not say yes yes anywhere you want yeah the glasses are start but I'm telling you the safety people are gonna be going nuts you need jackets at space field hearing protection we need a lockout tagout on the bush all right come on yep I'm gonna go empty this bucket and get the wheelbarrow all right you think pop yeah hard to say okay all right guys I think that's gonna be up for this video we'll pick it up in there in part 2 when I hear back from the customer and we have some parts so let's say thanks for watching all right good job well super quick update on the Robin's Nest it's still there still three eggs and the mom is still sitting on the eggs I just scared it away but no baby birds yet it's been I think about a week and a half so if they're gonna hatch it should be pretty soon I'll keep you guys posted

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 204,137

Rating: 4.9644408 out of 5

Keywords: John Deere, tractor, 2940, 6-359, engine, diesel, head, head gasket, coolant, leak, gasket, replace, repair, remove, mechanic, fix, clean, inspect, wash, old

Id: mjqAno_KcGw

Length: 32min 5sec (1925 seconds)

Published: Sat May 02 2020