Insley Dragline Crane - Engine Tuning and First Moves in 20 Years! - Part 3

this is an old Inslee dragline crane it has some kind of a huge 6-cylinder flathead engine all of the control levers are frozen wah wah wah hey there we go well I'm back with the old enslie dragline crane I have no idea why you guys like this thing so much but you obviously do so I'm prepared to milk a few more videos out of it last time we got the engine running and it runs ok ish it sounds pretty good at low rpms you know idle but as soon as you raise the RPMs it starts to drop out on at least one cylinder possibly two cylinders and if you leave the RPMs up it sometimes kind of drops in you can hear it okay it kind of has this little chuffing sound where the cylinder sounds like it's trying to catch and to me that sounds like a valve issue so I suspect what we're gonna find as it has a valve that's hanging up and that you know at low rpms it's able to open and close more or less correctly but at higher rpms the valve can't react fast enough and it's kind of hanging up or it possibly it's stuck completely open and also if you cup your hand over the end of the carburetor it kind of feels like it has a pretty low manifold vacuum so I brought a proper vacuum gauge this time we'll take some vacuum readings but before we do that I think we'll pull the tappet covers off and have a look at the valves I'll probably just go ahead and set the valves while we're in there it's pretty easy to set the valves on these engines now this is a flathead engine so there's no way that the Pistons can ever contact the valves so even if it has a sticky valve we haven't made the situation any worse by running it now a couple of notes about the engine first off I figured out what it is this is a continental B 427 so that's actually a 427 cubic inch flathead inline 6-cylinder engine it is absolutely massive and I found a B 4 to 7 in the random numbers on the tag on the backside so I know that's what it is I was pretty sure it was a continental because that's the only engine I know of where the distributor comes out through the top of the head but I just wasn't familiar with these larger models so guys we're also saying that it may have had a belt-driven governor it did have an external governor but it wasn't belt driven I can't show you on camera but on the backside actually it's on the front side of this timing cover there's a plate that they've added and that's where the governor would have originally bolted up I have no idea why they took it off I don't know where it is it was probably a Pierce governor and we could probably find one but I don't think we would ever find one that has the right gear to drive off of that off the cam gear or whatever's inside there maybe it's an idler now a lot of guys we're asking why the engine wasn't seized up after sitting here for 20 years and the exhaust has not been covered it just has a that rain cap on it and what saved this engine is the fact that it's a flathead so if you're not familiar with a flathead the exhaust manifold is the top one and the intake manifold is the bottom one but those poor are in the side of the actual block so in order for any water to get into the actual cylinders via the manifolds it would actually have to go into the engine block up through the valve across and down into the cylinders and there's really not a good way for that to happen all right I got the tamp it covers off this side it looks okay this side does not look okay so we got a busted valve spring here and that's not a fresh kill it's been broken for a while so that's probably part of the reason why they parked it and it looks like the the valves don't seem to be getting much oil I think there's a part missing every el Head Continental I've ever worked on it has these baffles that go in by the by the valves here it's supposed to squirt the oil up onto the valve stems and those don't appear to be anywhere inside here so maybe they I don't know if they don't all have that maybe these big engines don't have those those baffle plates but like the smaller you know f-series engines I've worked on they all have those anyway that's kind of a showstopper I see the little mouths keepers are laying down there in the bottom I don't know if we can get that spring out of there without pulling the head or not kind of sucks if this is an overhead valve engine we could just you know put a little air in the cylinder and pull that that spring right off but it's a lot more tricky on one of these anyway I think we're kind of done for the day [Music] well I don't think it's gonna be a problem to change that valve spring without pulling the head you should be room to kind of jam it up in there I got the old one off no problem the rest of them look like they're okay so we just need to replace this one I'm trying to figure out I was trying to figure out if it's an exhaust or an intake valve I'm still not entirely sure so it looks like the exhaust manifold has six runners so there's one two three four five six so there's one exhaust runner for each exhaust valve but the intake manifold only has four runners so I think that means that we're gonna have exhaust intake intake exhaust intake exhaust and then if the front side is basically just a mirror image of that so I'm pretty sure this is an exhaust valve you can see just based on the amount of curd that's built up over the broken area it's been broken for a long time it's not like we caused this to happen by by trying to start it up and I did find both keepers and we've got the rotor okay it's a few days later and we've got our new valve spring looks like it's the right one to me he said that there's some engines that have both inner and outer valve springs but this one only has one set anyway this is where I got the parts from Monte's equipment they specialize in Continentals they're in the Chicago area and they have pretty much anything you would ever need I bought some parts for that f2 45 that I rebuilt from these guys they have all the weird gaskets and head bolts and stuff for these engines so Girard up there he also told me that he doesn't think that these 427 engines had the baffles behind the tappet covers so I'm not sure yet I guess the valves just are splash lubricated or something anyway he said not to worry about that one other thing I found while I was poking around this is the distributor cap and I don't it looks great on the inside there's hardly any wear on the posts but this button I can't make it do it right now there it goes see how it wants to stick its the they call it a button but it's basically just a brush it's like a carbon brush and yeah I don't like that so I'll see if I can get it freed up but if we aren't happy with it I'll just go ahead and replace the cap and rotor there we go it's like that hopefully I can do this without losing a finger No [Applause] zebb it well I don't know if you guys can see it on the camera but that these keepers are wrong something's wrong with them I think this one maybe is worn the shoulders worn on the inside possibly from running for so long with that valve spring broken so it's on there and I don't think you can come off but there's that's that's not right it should sit up inside of this this bottom cup so I guess I'll have to find out what the valve stem diameter is and see if I can obey some some used valve keepers for that I mean I think we can run it for a while like that but it definitely needs to be fixed never seen one do that before all right set the valves we're gonna put cylinder number one we're gonna bar it over until we get valve overlap so that's the exhaust valve opening now and when it closes man this thing's hard to borrow you should see the intake valve start to open there it is right there so that is valve overlap as to do with exhaust gas scavenging but basically for a split second the intake and exhaust valves are both slightly open so similar number one is currently in valve overlap all right so cylinder number ones in valve overlap that means we're gonna set both valves on cylinder number six it's 17 thousands on the intake 22 on the exhaust and you can see they're pretty pretty loose so that's actually good better too much gap then too little gap too little gap is what causes us to have you know burned up valves because it's holding the valve slightly open all the time anyway I'm gonna set these valves and then we're gonna bar the engine over until cylinder number five goes into valve overlap this is a straight six so our firing order is one five three six two four so we'll just keep going through the firing order we should have cylinder number five come into valve overlap and when cylinder number five that's this one right here it goes into valve overlap we're gonna set the valves on cylinder number two so it's really easy on a straight-6 because it has companion cylinders so one in 6 2 & 5 3 & 4 are companion cylinders so that means with cylinder number 1 being involved laughs it's the end of its exhaust stroke and the beginning of its intake stroke that means it's on top dead center that means that cylinder number six the companion cylinder is on top dead center of its compression stroke and on the compression stroke the valves had to be closed so that's the best way to know that the valves are truly closed is to get your cylinder onto top dead center of a compression stroke but like I said companion cylinders so anyway I've got another video about how to do this on another continental it's exactly the same procedure very simple so it looks like the mechanical advance is free see I can turn the turn this little post the cam so that's all it all it really needs to be able to do I'm gonna go ahead and replace the cap and rotor I just don't trust that old one so I've marked my old cap with the number one position I did get new wires too but I really don't see anything wrong with these so 1 5 3 6 go to for hand the coil oh boy I just like to go there does it all right I stole a coil wire off the old end loader over there I don't think she's going anywhere I've done a few things before I fired up the camera I didn't have to break down and actually buy some parts that's a new lower radiator hose it had this crusty old disaster on there so they had a universal hose on it I just put another Universal hose on it and then I've also taken a stab at resolder ingush radiator so we'll see how that goes I'm not the world's greatest solder obviously but I'm concerned that it may also be leaking at the bottom so I've just got water in it for right now probably what I'll do is I'll just drain it at the end of the day everyday and we'll just let her leak a little bit well I went ahead and Jerry rigged a better fuel tank this is just an old lawnmower tank it kind of had a weird shape so I built this wooden box and it's got one of those cheap clicky clicky pumps on the top I just got it wired right up to the battery seems to work if you want to build one of these for yourself all you need to do is find an old fuel tank and then jump on eBay and type in cheapest fuel pump ever made ever and then find the one that has the quarter inch fittings and you're all set well I ran into a bit of a snag I went to go fill the radiator up with water chain water no more guess I'll have to wait till it warms up well it certainly sounds better much better it's pretty hard to complain about that sounds like it might have a little bit of a skip that idle possibly that's an ignition issue we can go ahead and throw those plugs and wires on it see if it helps but I don't think we're gonna get a whole lot better than that it's hard to tell because of this short little exhaust pipe kind of makes it sound erratic but yeah it takes throttle runs good way it really needs a governor that is super sketchy the way they've got it set up so I talked to the guys at Monty's he thinks you might have a governor for it okay I think we're gonna quit while we're ahead with the engine I'm not gonna bother it with the timing or anything else I thought this was a manifold vacuum port right here but I took that bolt out and it's actually not drilled all the way through now there's a big half inch pipe plug up here which I'm pretty sure is manifold vacuum but I don't have an adapter for my vacuum gauge it's big enough to jam down into that hole so just sticking your hand over the end of the carburetor this thing's got massive amounts of manifold vacuum and you might have been able to see the bottle body here actually gets like ice crystals on it so we we know she's pulling and I think our accelerator pump is working it seems to take throttle okay so we'll just leave it for now let's see the thermostat is opening I've been running it with a radiator cap off just because I'm not sure I really trust my radiator patch job there but I think we'll go ahead and throw the cap back on and don't see any leaks and like I said before I've just been filling it with with straight water and then I rigged up a hose here so I can just drain it back into that bucket at the end of the day we don't want to leave water in it overnight it's getting pretty cold this time of the year anyway let's move on to the controls so I'll give you guys a little bit of a walkthrough of how it works and a huge thanks to mr. 73 diamond Rio I will link again to his channel in the description box great guy he may actually made a whole section of a video for me about how the controls work in his Inslee shovel I was very unsure before that about how the thing actually was supposed to work and I really appreciate that so we'll start right here at the engine right behind the flywheel is a huge twin disc snap over clutch and that basically is going to send power to all the controls up in the front now behind that clutch is I believe a chain inside of this big case and the chain runs a you know small sprocket here on the engine side huge sprocket up there okay so powers coming out the clutch through this chain and then it comes into a giant gear reduction right here so underneath this cover there's a huge bowl gear that's driven off of a small gear from the end of the chain and then down below there is a second gear that drives another shaft that runs maybe you can see it kind of close to the floor down there now this first shaft right here runs the two main winches so this is going to be for your your drag of your bucket and up and down of your bucket so this is the other end of those two shafts so there's the big shaft that runs through the two main winches here's the second shaft that runs down closer to the floor this clutch right here power is this chain and that is for the boom hoist and you can see maybe back there it's actually got a big like a ratchet pawl on it and as far as I know all of the winches on this machine are basically free spool all the time so you have a clutch and you have a brake for each function and basically as soon as you release the clutch she's free to go you had to use the brakes to actually control it so here's the clutch for the main winch or one of the main winches so it's got this little booster right here when that band tightens up it's going to engage this large clutch inside of the of the drum and then it's got a band break on the outside now I've gone through and checked as far as I can tell all the clutches are free there are let's see 1 2 3 4 5 clutches they're all basically free inside of their bores however the breaks are a different story I believe the breaks on both winches are frozen on but we don't need the winches right now so on this second shaft there's the clutch here for the boom hoist then there's a clutch here and at a symmetrical clutch on the opposite side and they each run onto a bevel gear and one clutch is to swing one way one clutch is to swing the other way or to track forward or reverse so the bevel gears is how they get the change of direction there's a better look at that big bevel gear inside I'll give you a rundown of what the levers do at least as far as I understand it so these two levers here are for your two main winches and these two brake pedals right here are the brakes for your two main winches so you have a clutch and a brake for each winch this lever right here that's currently forward that's the main clutch that's that big twin disc unit that's on the back of the flywheel so that just snaps over and then once it's on you don't really have to mess with that this lever right here is for the boom hoist this lever right here is for your swing left and right and then it also does your track forward and backward these two levers right here are the clutches and brakes for the track so you have a left and a right and basically you pull that back it releases a dog clutch and then if you pull a little further it should engage a brake this lever right here switches the machine from being able to swing to being able to track so you cannot swing and track at the same time so it's got three positions I believe it's in track right now then there's a neutral you pull it back and then that would be swing this lever down here at the bottom is a swing lock so you pull that up and it basically pulls it it removes a ratchet pawl from the main swing gear underneath of the machine now we can talk about the problems I've found so all these levers are pretty stiff the only one that really seems to work is the main clutch lever that one seems to be fine the swing clutches seem to be seized up they don't seem to want to do anything so we'll have to work on that these two winch clutches they seem to sort of work but the brakes are completely frozen the swing and track selector here that doesn't seem to do anything also the swing lock is completely seized I noticed that this large gear here that it's actually sits kind of vertically on the top of the the floor of the house here it's completely shot see it's actually worn so bad it looks like a sprocket there's very little left of those teeth now another big problem these are the yokes for the steering clutches so you see right here this thing if I pull this lever maybe well there should be another one on that threaded piece that sticks up on the top and it should go into this rear yoke back here but you see it's completely missing looks like so it looks like somebody actually took that apart took the pieces off and then never bothered to fix it so if we can get the thing to track we're only going to be able to steer using one one side [Music] [Music] well hindsight being 20/20 I probably should have cleared the trees out first there's still one good size I think it's a poplar here and I'm gonna have to have some help to get that one down it's pretty much straight up and down it's a pretty good sized tree so I think if we get two guys one on a saw and one in the machine swinging the boom over we can just use the crane boom to push that tree right over [Applause] I wish we could drive it out of there but I think it's gonna need a little bit of a nudge the tracks seem to be frozen but it's pretty cool we got to swing alright guys I think that's enough for today I'm tired and we're losing light I can't really do much until we get the rest of this stuff out of here anyway which will require us to get this machine running that may be a video in and of itself this is a Clark all-terrain forklift it's got a little John Deere diesel engine in it and this is actually a pretty good machine it's the best thing down here by a significant margin but it hasn't run for I don't know probably at least six years something like that so we've played around with it a little bit it got to where it wouldn't crank over very well and I found a bad connection from the ground cable to the frame fix that and then it wouldn't get any fuel to the injectors and I found that the metering valve was stuck and I fixed that but I still can't get it running so I need some help to to bleed out the injectors properly it's kind of a two-man job on this machine so hopefully once we get the stuff cleared out of the way we can kind of nudge the tracks a little bit break them loose and then see if we can track it out of there I'm not really sure what we'll do with it once we once we get it tracking maybe we can have a heads up drag race against a boss garage but his seems to be in a lot better condition than mine so I think I would probably lose well I got the house cleaned up pretty good in here just swept it out I did find a few artifacts there's a crusty old pair of vise grips and then this is some kind of a pivot I guess it's got a actually got a part number in it these old knives both with the ends busted off and I did find a serial number scribed on the side of this support I don't know if you guys can read it or if you can read it if it makes any sense or helps anybody identify this machine so even if the machine has no value this engine is pretty cool how often do you see a 427 cubic inch flat head straight six gas I don't think I've ever seen one before so even if the the rest of the machine gets melted down we'll save that thing I don't think it's original anyway judging by the how scabby these these brackets and stuff are I'm guessing it's a well I'm sure it's a repower so I'd say the biggest issues are concentrated right here the the gear that you see there it's extremely loose on whatever kind of a shaft it runs on like I said we're missing that one yoke the yoke that switches it from swing to travel to see it's popped out of the it's kind of popped out of this yoke over here so that's gonna need some attention I did get that freed up they'll so we can switch between swing and track and then whatever and I know if you'll be able to see it on the camera yeah whatever this shaft is that's on the center of that large gear the one that's extremely worn that's for the swing it goes down to another small gear to swing the house around whatever bearing is inside that thing that that shaft runs on is completely nuked because the whole thing just slaps from side to side whenever you reverse direction so I don't know what's up with that as far as I can tell there are no ball bearings or roller bearings anywhere on this machine everything is like a bronze bushing and a grease zerk so probably just the bushings are worn out there should be a cover I think that covers this section and it's missing that's part of why we have so much trouble with these linkages and I found a bunch of crap inside there there's a big hook assembly some kind of a big spring a bunch of random pieces of threaded rod just I don't know stake or pick it or whatever it is and another one of those knives all right a couple of notes from the last video a lot of guys wanted to argue with me on this carburetor that it does not have an accelerator pump that that plunger you saw was some kind of a enrichment circuit or a power circuit or a power valve I don't know what to tell you guys it is an accelerator pump it also is a power valve so when the plunger comes down it pumps fuel out through the main jet that's the accelerator pump and then it also pushes on a valve at the bottom of the bore that is your power valve let's a little bit more fuel come through when it's at full throttle or at least at low manifold vacuum so I'll put a link in the description to a PDF copy of the manual for this carburetor it has a pretty good explanation of how that system works I also had several people comment that the the outside case of the coil needs to be grounded and that's not true at least that's not true for any coil that I've ever run into inside the coil there's a primary and a secondary winding but they're both connected to the negative terminal of the coil so it's in electrical terms it's an auto transformer as opposed to an isolation transformer so it only has three connections instead of four I also had several people quite upset that I didn't change the oil replace the filter you know fill up the coolant home the cylinders grind the crankshaft you know all that stuff before I tried to crank the engine over they all wanted me to replace all the spark plugs and all the wires and cap and rotor points and condenser I don't know what to tell you guys you know we're not trying to finish the dakar rally we just want to see if it's going to run and there's really no reason to start winging parts at it the oil that's in it it looks fine to me even if it has a little bit of gas or water in it as soon as we get the engine warmed up it'll cook that stuff right out it's not nearly enough concentration to ruin the lubrication properties as far as the coolant goes it's like 20 degrees Fahrenheit today we could run this thing for two hours without overheating it well I appreciate everybody watching and I'm not sure when the next video in the series will come out maybe a few weeks but I've got some other interesting things to show you guys

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 1,190,838

Rating: 4.8871717 out of 5

Keywords: forgotten, abandoned, rescue, old, barn find, revival, mechanic, repair, fix, engine, cold start, old start, ether, starting fluid, carberator, crane, insley, dragline, drag line, antique, flathead, straight 6, coil, points, clean, test, test light, spark, ignition, starter, field, woods, timber, trees, left, will it start, will it run, Coninental, B427, carburetor, zenith 63, accelerator pump, gasket, vacuum, radiator, first start, valve, spring, broken, moves, clutch, gear, sprocket, shaft, big, worn

Id: pwwrmTYfumg

Length: 39min 43sec (2383 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 11 2019