Fixing a Forklift that Sat in a Field for 17 Years - Timing Belt, Mast, Hydraulics, Cleanup - Part 2

today we're gonna work on this clark gcx 30 forklift there's something wrong with the mast it will not go up beyond the first stage the gland seal on this tilt cylinder is blown the brake system needs a complete overhaul the charge light here on this little indicator stays on all the time the body of the forklift kind of leans a little bit this way so in this bag there are two new timing belts the inside bearing on this wheel is bad all of the rear wheel bearings are bad it works we got brakes pipe up alright guys welcome back to what's gonna be part two of the repairs on this clark gcx 30 forklift I just wanted to take a minute real quick to answer a couple of questions from the first video so several people asked me why I packed the rear axle bearings with grease but did not pack the front axle bearings with grease and it's actually a good question I didn't even think about explaining that while I was doing it so I know a lot of times when I work on this stuff I kind of just zipped through it and I don't explain how the thing works and I forget that you know a certain percentage of the audience has maybe never seen the inside of a floating axle before so let me explain how it works this is a cutaway drawing from the service manual so that here's our our hubs and this is the differential portion right here that the axle portion of the trans axle so you see the inner and outer roller bearings right there and this is actually the dipstick right here that checks the fluid level in the trans axle so the reason we don't need to pack these bearings with grease is because they're oil bath banks there's an oil that fills this whole entire transaxle and the oil travels down the axle tubes and it actually fills this hub section right here and these bearings right here run constantly in oil that's why when we popped this axle out the end of the hub that oil was running down into the drain pan because there's oil there all the time so anyway I hope that helps it's not a dumb question I just forgot to explain it another question I got was about these brake hoses that I installed so people were questioning how I could get away with using you know hose clamps and brass barb fittings these are not on the pressure side of the brake system all these hoses do is allow brake fluid from this remote mounted brake reservoir to gravity feed down to the brake master cylinders which are mounted up here underneath of the steering column so the pressure side of the brake system you know from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders is all done with steel hard lines there are no you know basically brake hoses like you know what you would see between the frame rail and the caliper on the front of a car for an axle of a car it's all done with hard lines on this on this forklift these hoses they have no pressure okay so first things first I did find a set of forks for it these are actually the ones off of the big ugly forklift project that I had their class three forks 48 inches long they're way overkill for this forklift but it's nice having that extra length so the problem I'm dealing with today is that the second stage of the mast does not work so basically the forks will go up until they basically hit the top of the mast here and then it just stops it won't go any higher and the way this works it's kind of cool so the mast actually has three cylinders so there's a big one in the middle and then there's two kind of long skinny ones on the outside and the big one in the middle is called your free lift cylinder so that's gonna lift the forks without lifting the mast and then when it gets to the top of its travel the two long skinny forks are going to take over and that's gonna raise the second stage of the mast and give you another six feet or something of height couple meters of height so this is not a hydraulic issue because the cylinders are actually plumbed together so the way this works the oil comes in here there's a kind of a valve here which I believe is a blowout valve so that if you lose a hose or whatever the thing doesn't just come crashing down into a distribution block and then these two hoses that one and that one go to the bottom of these long skinny cylinders and then up at the top here the two cylinders are connected together with another hose and then there's a hard line that runs all the way down the mast yeah I don't know if you'll be able to see it but it runs right down there into the bottom of the free lift cylinder so I guess it's just self proportioning and the the free lift cylinder must have a larger diameter than these two skinny cylinders so the oil takes the path of least resistance and it raises the the free lift cylinder to the maximum travel and then the pressure gets high enough to make the 2 skinny cylinders want to come up and raise the rest of the mast now by the way if you're in the market for a forklift and if you don't have one you should be because they are super super handy free lift is a very important feature so free lift means the amount that the forks can lift before the mast starts to telescope out and a lot of manufacturers don't specify in the spec sheet what the free lift is but that's something that you need to consider because if you have a low door or something you know it doesn't take very much height of the forks before the mass gets way too tall to go through the door and actually at my old shop in the industrial complex they had a Toyota forklift I don't know what model it was it was a nice machine but it did not have any free lift at all so what would happen with that Toyota is guys to go pick up a pallet and then they'd raised the forks up about you know about waist high or whatever you know for whatever reason and maybe tool along and they wouldn't notice that the second stage of the mast had also telescoped out you know about half that distance so let's say a foot and a half or something and they come screaming through a garage door opening and maybe somebody forgot to open the garage door all the way and take out the bottom section of the garage door so if you go back in my archives there's a tour of my old shop building and if you notice looking at the garage doors on the long line of those buildings you'll see that a lot of them have the first section of the garage door totally messed up and that's because of that Toyota forklift it's a garage door killer so I set up this pancake jack so I could try to move one section of the mast inside the other section and you can see it does nothing that the whole machine will lift off the ground before this section will move inside of the other section of the mast and I found the problem let me show you okay so we're we're gonna be looking is right here between the two sections of the mast and there's a roller it's attached to I believe it's attached to this section of the mast and it rides inside this channel okay does everybody see that right there that kind of round shape in there it's a nut I think like a regular hex nut and it fell down on top of that bottom roller and it's actually wedged between the roller and the the channel frame of the mast so I've got to try to get that out of there some way yeah I don't know I'm not sure how I'm gonna do it okay I spread that math sections a little bit with a couple of wedges and then I reached in here at this flexible magnet there it is that's the nut right there so I don't know if it'll come out of there now okay I can just kind of leave it there I don't know if it's a nut or some kind of a spacer whatever it is so now we can run it up to full height and maybe we can pull it out that way well that was a problem but that was not the problem the problem was rust so my good friend here mr. bfh also known as the bead breaker gave her a couple of good whacks right there where that roller is on the bottom and it popped loose so that was a problem that the machine was settled so far down on the ground it must have gotten really rusty inside there so so I chose them both down with some PB Blaster let's fire it up and see if it works now [Music] okay that works so that's the full height of the forks there it's really not that high maybe ten feet something like that so what three meters so it's only a two-stage mast and I've got a feeling I'm gonna miss my old forklift because it had a 3-stage mast it would lift to like 14 feet so what's that almost five meters yeah okay cool well I think in the spirit of us not having taken enough things apart we should go after these mounting bolts right here that seems to hold the green chassis of the machine to the black frame for the engine transaxle mast you know the whole works so it seems like there's four big bolts on either side that kind of married the two together I don't think you're gonna be able to see it cuz I can barely see it I'm telling you what I don't know how people get by with just a GoPro this is awful I can't see a damn thing okay maybe you can see you're right there at the tip of my finger one of those bolts is actually loose it's completely loose so I think that might be the source of our problem my theory is we're just loosen them all up and let the whole machine kind of settle down and see if it straightens itself out okay I loosened all the bolts on the left side of the machine and put a jack underneath that side of the mast and I think we've made a pretty big improvement so if you site along the bottom beam of that mast against the canopy it's pretty close and then if you site along the top of the carriage to the fenders it's it's off a little bit still but it's much closer than it was so I think we'll just button that back up and and move on to something else okay I want to check out the alternator real quick this is the wiring diagram that comes in the manual that I bought and here's our alternator right here pretty standard Delco 10 si you know straight out of the GM parts book and here's our charge indicator you know multifunction light right here so a pretty standard set up looks like the charge indicating light gets a gray through the voltage regulator and then once the regulator basically turns on it takes away the ground and your charge indicating light should go out so what we need to do is just make sure that we're getting what we need to get right here at the regulator we know that's got a ground because the lights coming on so we need to make sure it's not just being you know grounded through somewhere else on the harness so we can just unplug this from the alternator and make sure that the charge light goes out if it does and we're not getting any in any output from the alternator then we're gonna have to just go ahead and replace this alternator they're super cheap these Delco tennis eyes were literally used in everything okay under the hood I went ahead and bought a brand new battery when I first got the machine back to the shop so this is the correct frame size to fit in this little battery tray these things are fantastically expensive I think that's a hundred and twenty-five dollar battery and it's only you know five hundred cold cranking amps so anyway there's the alternator right there buried underneath of the coolant overflow bottle like I said standard Delco ten SI altimeter and here's our main charge wire right here under this boot which is probably gonna tear and then this little connector down here is our two two connections for the voltage regulator and you see there's a bunch of you probably can't see because it's a stupid GoPro but there's a bunch of crud built up in the heatsink here on this regulator so that may be part of our problem anyway probably needs an alternator but let's let's fire it up okay that's weird the light did not come on now it's not on at all that's weird so the alternator definitely is not charging but that charge indicator light never came on so normally that's a circuit problem so I guess we better figure out what's going on I'm pretty sure they all share the same power let's check the schematic but I'm pretty sure all the dummy lights here share the same power so it's getting power it's just not getting the ground okay I don't know what's going on here well that's not very good it's almost like it sat outside for 17 years let's look up a jumper wire so which ones which here so ignition on we should have power on both of those that one's good and that one's good let me get a test light so we don't blow something up here okay we got power there on the big dog about the little dog yeah okay so you can't see it on camera it's a super super dim but the light when I touch this wire the light on the dummy light comes on on the dash so yeah we're not getting the ground through our alternator so what can we do about that okay I'm gonna attempt to energize the voltage regulator using my test light let's see what happens here [Music] it comes on but it does not go up okay I'm calling it needs an alternator okay there it is it's got a tag on it here looks like it's been rebuilt once before so we'll see if we can get one that's a little bit less crusty so I guess the next thing to do is go after the timing belt and honestly I'm tempted to let it ride because as far as I can tell these are non-interference engines but I mean it's just been sitting for so long that I don't want to have problems with it and anything a rubber that sits for a long time typically has problems so the biggest obstacle to this job is this crazy cooling system so it has this water pump mounted up here on this bracket with a fan to cool the radiator but what's crazy is that I don't know if you can see it see this little disc right here that's another water pump so it's got its own water pump built onto the front of the engine but because they wanted this fan drive or whatever up here at the top they just added a second water pump and I'm assuming it probably has a larger capacity too so anyway looks like there's a block drain right here behind the dipstick so I'll see if I can get the coolant out of it and we'll see how big of a job is gonna be to wrestle that that water pump off and then we probably yeah I think we're gonna have to take that accessory drive pulley off the crankshaft that should be the major obstacles so yeah see what happens here okay that opens it up quite a bit so radiator looks a little rough transmission cooler pretty well plugged up so we'll clean both of those while we're in here sis hilarious how they use this engine though I mean this is this is straight out of a front-wheel drive car it's a mitsubishi 4g64 engine and this bracket right here is where you would have your upper engine mount if you were in a front-wheel drive car and then like I said this right here is the regular stock water pump that's not used in this application it would have been driven I guess off of that belt so they just bolted an accessory belt way outside of that to drive the stuff they wanted to drive and built this bracket that went from the side of the head to that engine mount bracket to hold the water pump and shoved it in a forklift and forgot about it so kind of crazy anyway we got to get this plastic cover off here next and then figure out what's going on down here on the crank shaft area and we should be able to see the timing belt I don't think this is a press fit but I could be wrong there we go just a little rusty well there she is doesn't look too awful bad say it may have been changed once before it's pretty loose so we'll reset the tension pretty easy to do and then the big thing is you can see where it's it just sat for a long time and the belt kind of has a memory and as you bar it over it it has some kind of spots where the belt doesn't Lake doesn't like flat so like it's a good idea to change it like I said two belts the small one down there runs the balance shaft and then the big one runs the cam and that gear down at the bottom is the oil pump so I borrowed it over until the timing marks lined up so there's one on the cam here corresponds to this little nub on the inside of the timing cover the oil pump has the timing mark the crankshaft has the timing mark and the balance shaft has the timing mark so we'll hang a couple new belts and be done with this well I hit a bit of a snag so this is the tensioner for the main timing belt up and around with that this is the tensioner for the balance shaft it's got this little eccentric cam on the inside of it that this bearing is no good I tried popping the seals out cleaning it up and putting a little bit of grease in there but there's still there's definitely a spot where I can feel it catching so I don't feel feel right putting it back in we need a new one well since we have to wait for parts I guess we might as well go ahead and take these cylinders apart not hard to see that this one's bad since the gland seal is hanging out flapping in the breeze I really don't like doing hydraulic cylinders that's not the right sized fella eight dogs maybe thirteen sixteenths when you see it so I thought there was a chance we might be I'll repack this cylinder in place without dismounting it because it makes such a freakin mess but it doesn't appear that we're gonna get that lucky so we might as well just get it over with and pull it out of there drip pan in place yeah I just do not like packing cylinders there's no there's no clean way to do it period [Music] okay now think that'll go straight down well we haven't gotten the torch out yet on this project I guess we were due okay let me catch you up the torch came out it did not help the big hammers came out that didn't really help well I finally ended up doing is put the floor jack underneath and I spaced up from the floor jack to the bottom of the pin with some steel blocks and then I lifted up one side of the Machine and then whacked the top of the cylinder down and that pin finally popped up so it moved to good half-inch I think we've got it on the run now I thought she was gonna beat me there for a minute well I thought when I looked at this from the top that I could just unscrew this gland but on closer inspection it would appear that this is the style that has the little I'm sure there's a special name for it so on this style of cylinder there's like a steel band in here and it winds up like a clock spring around the gland and you have to unwind it there we go isn't that fun okay now should be able to knock that thing up there we go so there's the gland and the piston well whoever designed this cylinder must have gone to the Ford engineering school 21 millimeter on the bolt 24 millimeter on the nut 21 okay let's make this a little bit easier [Music] well there's your problem lady she done blowed out so I don't know probably got rusted to the shaft and then when I tried to extend the cylinder it just tore the seal up so anyway I'll peel all this crap out of here clean them up we'll put it back together it must have been this seal that was actually bad in the gland because this is the pressure seal this top one that looked like it was blown out that's really just a wiper so or it's a backup I don't know I'm not an expert about cylinders I kind of muscle my way through it I don't like doing it but whatever so they make all kinds of fancy tools for collapsing these seals down so you can easily install them I don't have them so I just do it the hard way oh I should have bought the fancy tool there we go you can't really hurt the seals I mean they're so tough anyway you guys aren't watching this video for a how-to on fixing cylinders so I just barely get by on it okay stuff this thing back in here and be done with it of course you can't have too much Lube it probably a smart idea to wait until this piston seal relaxes a little bit it's still kind of stretched out from installing it but I think it'll go nope well out the way alright guys I got the cylinder put back together it was like 10 o'clock at night last night when I was working on this so I didn't feel like messing around with the camera I just slammed it back together just wanted to test it with some air real quick it sounds good okay no leaks let's throw it back in there hope that's the last time I have to go to the dealership for parts I got us two new timing belt tensioners I decided just to go ahead and replace both of them I can't see this but I bet the camera can so there's the timing mark on the crankshaft lined up and if we pan up there is the timing mark on the balance shaft and it's lined up and we're supposed to have six millimeters to flex them in the belt that's about a quarter-inch looks pretty good I got it a little bit on the tight side maybe but that's how I like it so we'll slam the other one in now the other timing belt is a little more complicated so over here on what would be the left side of the engine or the right side of the machine down yonder right there behind the starter is a plug looks like this and you take that plug out so we're supposed to insert something in here the book suggests a screwdriver so I'm using a drill bit I'll stick it in the hole here and it's supposed to go in at least 60 millimeters and in this case I cannot get it in you know even up to the flutes so that means that the oil pump gear which is over here needs to be turned 360 degrees so I guess the way this must be set up there's a balance shaft on either side of the block one drives off of that secondary timing belt and the other one drives off of the oil pump so I rotated the oil pump one full revolution and now the drill bit goes basically all the way in so we know we're timed right on the oil pump okay primary timing belt install so here's our time your mark for the cam and the crank and I don't know if you'll be able to see the oil pan or not yep there it is so it looks pretty good new tensioner installed and the spring is kind of a pain to get on there but otherwise pretty simple job so I'll borrow the engine over a couple times make sure we don't have any interference and recheck the belt tension and we'll go ahead and button this back up it's not a bad job really what were you saying probably totally dead isn't it it's been sitting on the ground for like five days that's got it right no charge late well this is the air filter housing and I guess this latch must have originally come up here yeah last on the sheet metal right there but the end of its broken off so I dug around in my stash and I found this I think there's a chance I can make that work yeah something like that [Music] [Music] that'll work it's a forklift air filter I mean I think it'll be just fine okay well before we can install the air box we better go ahead and fix this temporary dodgy wiring job that we did on the ignition module wire here from the coil to the ignition module you know it was only temporary unless it worked and it did work so in the original video where we got this machine kind of running a lot of people speculated that maybe these wires were purposely cut in order to prevent the machine from being stolen or I don't know that's part of the decommissioning process whenever they were sold off by the original owner so that seems unlikely to me because it's so hard to access these wires so you have to basically take the air box out to even get to them you can kind of see this distributor from the top but if you don't know exactly what you're looking for you would never know you know what these wires even do so I don't know they were obviously you know chopped right into I just I don't have an explanation for why there we go it's like it never happened this is the filter for the hydraulic oil so there's no drain port on the hydraulic tank and there's two ways you can get the fluid out you can actually use the the hydraulic pump on the machine to pump the oil out of the tank there's a service port over here on the side of the valve block but I don't have the right fittings to hook up to that plus it seems kind of sketchy the other option is just to pump it out so that's what I'm doing see how dark it is almost looks like engine oil well the the service interval on this hydraulic oil is ridiculous it's like 2,000 hours or every one calendar year and I wonder how many people actually follow that I doubt this forklifts going to get fifty hours of use a year from me well there were a few guys in the last video who did not approve of my cross your fingers Isaac Newton method of holding the battery in so I guess we need a proper hold down now originally it would have had some kind of a bracket that went in these two holes along the side of the battery and then bolted into this one hole back here and the battery would have had some tabs on the side but the battery I have doesn't have those I'm not sure if I have the wrong frame size or what's going on just a different manufacturer or what anyway what I did is I bought some of these battery hold-down J bolts and I found a little piece of aluminum here drilled a hole in it and I cut a chain link in half and welded it to the bottom of the battery box so let me get that thrown in there real quick I'll show you how it works boom billet battery hold-down huh huh well there's the engine oil looks pretty good to me all things considered sitting in there for 17 years but it was just changed before they parked it [Music] so I bought new spark plugs for it takes kind of a unusual plug because it's propane I bought some new ng case but I mean those look like brand new yeah they've even got the anti-seize on I'm still yeah I'm putting them back in oh what a mess I was wondering about these guys with their like fancy painted shop floors I'm guessing they don't work on old forklifts well can you tell that I worked on a forklift here you well you knock 17 years of moss and dust and decaying leaves off the top of this forklift and really looks pretty good I mean for a forklift looks pretty good so I turned the steam on after I turned the camera off and kind of hosed down the transmission and engine got all the oil that we spilled you know kind of blown off of there so yeah looks okay still some some moss and mildew on this instrument panel not to clean that up a little bit and I don't know if I can get a new piece of glass for that one or we'll just live with it now these side panels need some bodywork you can see somebody's already gone at this one with the hammer trying to straighten it out but everything's kind of tweaked a little bit they must have crashed it into something and then this is the latch over here and it's it's bent and sprung out of position so I'll see if I can straighten that out okay liberal application of the BF h and we're looking pretty good got the hinges kind of straightened out still got a little bit of a something funky going on here not too worried about it got the latch straightened out I got to do a little tweaking on the other one but yeah shouldn't be a big deal nice thing about a forklift you got a built-in anvil yeah buddy fixed well what project would be complete without a broken off bolt and I actually managed to keep it down to one and that's it right there on the floor pin so let's see if we can get that thing out [Music] [Music] [Music] well I think installing those floor pans is the last step now they were originally installed with these I don't let you call them speed nuts or whatever panel and that's something like that anyway I've destroyed all of them except for this one getting the floor pans off so mcmaster-carr to the rescue I bought all new ones also got all new flange bolts which are not long enough well let's try these that's more like it [Applause] okay put that little cover back on protects the wiring I guess using the proper black zip ties I always get a bunch of comments when I use the white zip ties bro they're not UV rated all right guys I think we're going to stop there I've got something like five hours of footage on fixing this forklift already and I think I'm gonna stop and compile that into a video or two videos and in the next installment we're going to install these diaphragms in the vaporizer and the carburetor I need to educate myself a little bit on how that works I have never done the job before and only it's gonna be too bad but I don't want to bumble my way through it on the camera I need to do a little bit of research and sort of come up with a game plan so thank you guys for watching and in the next video we're gonna finish this project up

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 176,467

Rating: 4.9601102 out of 5

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Id: 4BsO6wqxebk

Length: 51min 17sec (3077 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 01 2020