2001 Dodge Ram 2500 - Random Missfire, Blown Brake Line, no Heat or AC - basically it's an Old Dodge

howdy folks welcome back how about a dodge for a change this is a 2001 dodge ram 2500. it's got the 5.9 gas engine 360. has a little bit of a misfire and it blew out a brake line so let's get her inside and see what we can do so here's the brake line it's the crossover that goes underneath the engine over to the right side brake caliper oh i put a little band-aid on it but it didn't really help which is pretty crusty see some of the other brake lines have already been replaced so i want to go ahead and fix this one up i have a coating on it but the coating stops right about there where that brake hose is and that's where it rusted out so yeah what are you going to do these dodges boy they rust really bad especially this vintage of dodge see this one's been pretty well weight reduced let's go for the misfire first the check engine light is on it's not on and flashing it's just unsteady we're going to use the snap-on scanner i found that my autel the maxis 906 it has kind of a hard time doing misfires especially on older domestic vehicles it's pretty good on asian stuff but especially on chryslers it cannot even do misfire counters on a lot of models so we'll use the solas all right i pulled the codes this probably won't help us very much we got misfire codes for cylinder one cylinder three and then looks like a thermostat performance code and some evap stuff this truck still has a distributor so it's probably probably going to be ignition related but yeah let's see if we can track it down all right we're going to try to play around with the pico i'm not super good with secondary ignition waveforms but we'll give it a go so i got one set up on cylinder number one there and the other is over here on the coil wire that's funny i accidentally found the problem got a bad coil wire better lucky than good i guess you'll see the computer just blank out every once in a while that's secondary ignition problem so this truck just needs to tune up get a set of plug wires i hear a massive vacuum link over here that's the purge valve so i'd say we found our evap small leak yeah there it is well there's your problem lady all right guys i don't think the picoscope's gonna be much help to us it keeps glitching out every time that the secondary ignition shorts to ground which is happening all the time so i say we go ahead and just load up the parts cannon and fire some plug wires at it i bought plugs wires and a cap and rotor so yeah i say we just give it an old-fashioned ignition tune-up and that should take care of this problem and you can audibly hear the ignition shorting somewhere so it doesn't really matter where yeah and i don't know about this vacuum leak i never got around to checking the fuel trims but that couldn't have been helping anything all right i pulled the coil wire off check this out see that oh it's torn right in half so there's your other problem lady i wonder if we could fix this do the old russian repair no parts required make ivan proud see what happens now get ready it's another tool you didn't know you needed to have this is a set of crimpers just for spark plug wires let's try it just for fun that's way worse oops i wonder if it's got the wrong boot on it well that's the deal it's got the wrong boot on it here so this is a boot for an old point style distributor and it's supposed to have this smaller one the hei style so this is the replacement coil wire it has these boots on either end whereas the spark plug wires have the spark plug boots so something must have happened to the original boot and then this one got installed but it's never going to work it's just going to leak around that boot because it's way too big so yeah i got a new set of wires we'll go ahead and throw those on i'm going to replace the plugs as well truck's got 130 000 miles on it it's probably got original plugs so we'll just do that while we're at it well what do you think i'm saying it might be time it's like that electrode is completely gone yeah pretty sure they're original plugs so oe spec was champion that's what i went with that the oes are triple platinum i can only get the double platinum but it's got to be better than this and none of the plug wires have come off in one piece yet all the terminals have pulled out so it's past due i don't know if you guys will be able to see that the posts inside this distributor are getting pretty crusty and then the end of the rotor so definitely time for a tune-up all right new plugs new wires new cap new rotor new coil wire here looks pretty good well these spark plugs are pretty sad the porcelain's actually broken off of that one so it's been that way for a long time definitely past time so let's fire it up make sure we got the order right and i'll put the air box back on man what a difference it actually idles now i guess we got the wires in the right spot i'm charging up the ac system we better do something about these battery terminals they're looking pretty crusty so [Music] uh let's try that again this battery is nine years old so i'd say it's put up a pretty good fight all right got this beast up on a rack it's always fun with these long trucks i think this is the longest wheelbase truck you could buy at the time anyway i'll show you the brake line so right up there and it goes into that tube that goes underneath of the front crossmember so it runs all the way along here over up under and into the brake hose now i ordered new brake hoses as well you can see these are looking pretty shabby so i've got the left side i think but i don't have the right side or maybe it's the opposite way around anywho i think where we'll start is trying to get the bleeders loose that looks like it might be might be pretty fun and then we'll go after that brake line now the brake hose is you know the steel line part of the brake hose is a lot thicker material than a regular brake line but yeah these are way past their prime and we'll try it they really don't look too awful bad i think we've got a chance oh i may have spoken too soon well they're certainly not 10 millimeter anymore 3 8 is going to be our be our winner oh come on baby all right let's try some heat [Applause] oh yeah there we go that's all she needed good deal well let's see if we can get this bolt out i got the other three out if you can believe that so [Music] so sweet this is the inverted flare nut off of that brake line i've got a new one but i'll show you guys how we can get this old brake line out of here and reuse this it's really not too hard now you see i just cut this one off with a pair of side cutters so first thing come over to your bench [Music] grinder oh [Music] so clamp it up in the bench vise and then this is a 3 16 brake line so we're going to use a 3 16 drill bit [Music] there we go that's it so the drill bit will drill through all the rusty crusty part of it and then once it breaks through that it'll catch on what's left of the brake line and spin it right out the end this is an extra long nut so it's got a a big long area in here that was all rusted solid that's why you'll never get them apart anytime you got to take these apart around here just plan on replacing the brake line okay here's our new brake line looks pretty good i'm using the nycop material so it's a nickel copper alloy specifically made for brake lines it'll handle the pressure of a steel brake line but it's much easier to bend and it doesn't corrode the last time i did a brake line video i had a lot of questions about this hydraulic flaring tool i use it says mac tools here but this is actually a master cool set i think it's about 400 dollars for this kit this will do inverted flare bubble flare push connect fuel line gm fuel line and it can also do the gm transmission cooler lines if you get the additional dies now this is pretty extravagant for your average home gamer diy guy i recommend getting an inline flaring tool they're not that much more expensive than the old t-handle style and they make a lot better flares so this brake line here has a bubble flare on the end where it goes into the abs valve double flare there so the last guy who was here to get around that problem just used a compression fitting so we'll get rid of that all right let's see if we can pry this brake hose off without destroying everything oh yeah no problem let's not get too optimistic about this guy so [Applause] [Music] can't believe that came out of there i think it's been almost 10 weeks since we had measurable rain sometime in june even when we had the directo come through we didn't really get any rain out of that deal but it's making up for it now we've had six inches of rain in the last 48 hours so that's 150 millimeters of rain in two days so we're basically getting two months worth of rain in one weekend all right guys i charged up the ac and the compressor and everything works fine problem is nothing else works the blower motor does nothing i hear the mode door actuator running maybe sorry it's pretty dark in here well it looks like there's a blower motor relay on the hot side of the blower motor that's in the pdc so power distribution center and then there's a regular blur motor resistor inside this ac heater control that controls the ground side so i don't know what's easiest to get to i think maybe we just pop open that power distribution box and check for power on this relay all right i think the blower motor relay is going to be this guy right here come on so we can drop in our relay tester right there okay this relay should be hot and run so anytime that the ignition is on should have power here looks good good good well let's see if i'm reading this right we should have power at three out of four pins so one two three and then we should have a ground at the other pin so let's see here hook this up to power there it is so i think we've got what we need on the power side let's figure out what's going on on the ground side all right so i think we can say we have power up to the blower motor the blower motor relay is working i don't think we have a ground problem so you see this g201 right here i think that's okay because the illumination works and the air conditioning works so this is this right here is the control side of the air conditioning so it goes through the high pressure switch the low pressure switch whatever evap switch or whatever and the compressor runs so i don't think we have a ground problem also i don't think it's a blower motor resistor although i'm not 100 sure but normally when those blow you still have high because yeah if you see the the path here it goes right through you know it basically bypasses the resistor when you're in the highest setting so i think we just go right for the blower motor itself see what's going on if we have power here then it's probably just got a bad motor that's a dragonfly he's not the only unhappy critter in the shop today but i know pup i can't make it stop raining buddy cheer up buddy can't rain forever although it is supposed to rain all week so you might want to get used to it all right we're looking for a dg and a blk slash tn so dark green and a black with tan wire for that blower motor i went ahead and took the glove box out i think our wires are going to be right here but what the heck is this thing oh it's a pen with a lamb on top of it okay not what i was expecting to see oh nope all right i grabbed a couple of front probes from my aes wave u test kit and where this thing's been my whole life but it is fantastic anyway we're front probed into that connector and then i've got it hooked up to a test light that i made so kind of inspired by erica south main auto this is just a pigtail for it from some trailer wiring and then i i had these little sample cups for doing oil samples i just cut the lid out and made it into a test light so let me turn this key on all right so there's high and it doesn't work on any other setting so yeah classic scenario what happened is the blower motor something happened to it the brushes are bad or the bearings are bad or something and that has taken out the blower motor resistor so it needs a motor and a resistor i ordered a blower motor and a blower motor resistor should have those in the morning that'll take care of that issue at that point we should have air conditioning but they were saying they also don't have heat i checked the mode doors they're vacuum actuated there's three there's a recirculation door there's a vent door and a defrost door they all seem to be working but i think i figured out why there's no heat or at least part of the problem there's no coolant so yeah that's not good hopefully it doesn't have a bad head gasket or something well i added a gallon of coolant yeah i guess we'll see what happens well i don't see any signs on these spark plugs of a blown head gasket you know burning coolant really looked pretty good a couple of these might be a little bit on the lean side but we did have that big vacuum leak so that's not terribly surprising but yeah maybe it's just got a little pinhole leak somewhere all right we got our new brake hoses installed new bleeders our one new brake line that runs under the engine looks pretty decent and a new brake hose and bleeder on the other side while the rear caliper bleeders came loose no problem i'm guessing they were replaced at some point so these rear axle brake lines look pretty good but somebody's already replaced the long brake line that runs back here to the back of course it's already pretty crusty again but it has been replaced and we've got all new brake lines from the abs valve down to the frame rail so no more scotty kilmer approved compression fittings i think for the first time ever i actually have the right adapter for my power bleeder cool man this brake fluid was nasty looks like used diesel engine oil got the old blower motor out not too bad of a job just three screws up into the bottom of the heater box it was actually locked up when i first pulled it out i managed to get it broken free and it doesn't feel too bad but we're to go ahead and replace it just you know for peace of mind they're not that expensive and then i'm also going to replace the fan because a lot of times you'll destroy these trying to get them off here's the blower motor resistor it lives in the heater box right next to the blower motor it's seen clearly seen better days kind of an interesting mechanism here for the thermal fuse so they just have this kind of springy element here and it's soldered to this link and i guess whenever the link this shunt or link or whatever you want to call it gets too hot draws too much current it melts the solder and the little thing springs out and you lose your connection so yeah get a new one of those too and should take care of our problems all right got our new blower motor appears to have the right connector and a new blower motor resistor we do have to reuse this little housing the little gasket and then this little hose here so that vents the back side of the motor where the brushes are all you guys ready for a shocker the blower motor still doesn't work well it does work but it only works on high so looking at the wiring diagram here this circuit works so coming down here bypassing the resistor going right through the switch to ground that works but everything to do with the resistor doesn't work at all so what i just did i set up a test light here the dark green wire there is the power coming into the blower motor running through a test light and into the connector to the blower motor resistor and i confirmed that the control part of it here is working so we're grounding each one of these wires going into the resistor but it's not making the blower motor work so i think we're going to find a problem on this wire right here possibly at this connector c237 or we just have a bad new resistor well this is fun so here's that connector right here c237 i just unplugged it plugged it back in and now the blower motor works so i'm going to take this apart clean up the terminals maybe spray some contact cleaner on there and then we should be done freaking dodges i think it's a good time to try out a new tool you guys ever watch ivan at pine hollow auto diagnostics guy is absolutely brilliant when it comes to diagnosing cars anyway he had a set of these in a video and i thought they were pretty clever so i picked some up for myself these are diamond tipped tweezers and they're made specifically for cleaning electrical terminals see a little picture here on the back give you an idea of how they're used i haven't tried them myself but they seem to do a good job for him so let's see what see what happens i'll try to put a link in the description where you guys can buy these or something similar and also the grip mat i finally got the discount code working i'll put that down here and then again in the description where you guys can just copy it should get you 10 off of any kind of grip map product if you so choose okay let's try it here oh man i hate dealing with connector pin fit issues gosh they don't look bad at all all right which one are we looking for black with tan i guess that's that guy right there boy i don't see anything wrong with it this is what sucks about doing diagnostic work and why mechanics hate working on dodges because you know diagnostics is all about finding the things that are good and ruling them out in an effort to find the thing that is bad but it's really hard to diagnose a system where everything is bad you know like on this truck a bad blower motor we know that it was locked up a bad resistor we know that the thermal fuse was obviously blown and then put it all back together and it still has electrical problems all right try some contact cleaner and we'll try a little bit of dielectric grease it's kind of a crutch but this is a non-sealed connector so might be helpful [Music] okay suck sass freaking dodges let's take this beast for a ride oh yeah come on go into gear don't be a dodge see we got an abs light on man do something about that little girl runs pretty good boy it's all over the road you can't really steer it it's kind of like herding it around alignment's way off heat's working though nice and toasty in here and it's probably gonna run like crap for a while until those fuel trims reset from that great big vacuum leak that it had i'm not sure what to make of this these are the active codes for the abs module it just keeps toggling between no codes present and an open circuit for the internal relay internal pump motor yeah so i don't know what we're gonna find with that max we're not going for a ride buddy all right folks i solved the mystery on the abs light talked to the customer i said it's been disabled intentionally so if you look here it should be a 40 amp fuse for the abs and you will see that that jk's fuse is missing so i guess i had a bad wheel speed sensor or something and it was making the brakes kind of work erratically so they just disabled the abs and they do not want to fix it so that's fine we'll just forget about that so i think we're done with this truck and max is done with this rainy weather hop up that's probably fine all right folks there you go working on a 2001 dodge ram 2500. i think we fixed the major problems the broken brake line the engine misfire the vacuum leak the air conditioning the hvac blower motor the blower motor resistor whatever else we did to this thing i mean it's still a dodge nothing we can do about that but for now it's time to go down the road so thanks guys for watching and i'll see you next time and don't worry about that little guy we'll talk about that later i'll throw all this crap in the trash but this guy that's a keeper

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 130,651

Rating: 4.9377594 out of 5

Keywords: dodge, ram, chrysler, 2500, 3500, 1500, 5.9, 360, gas, miss, missfire, p0300, p0301, p0303, ABS, brake, brakes, brake line, ni-copp, flare, bubble flare, inverted flare, wiring, diagram, diagnose, troubleshoot, plugs, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, tune up, vacuum leak, fuel trim, codes, ac, a/c, heat, no heat, rust, crust, 2001

Id: zsgP7q_myyc

Length: 35min 26sec (2126 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 10 2020