International DT466E Comeback - Hard / No Start, Low Oil in HPOP Reservoir, Oil & Air Leaks, Welding

anyway guys I guess if you want the five-second version of this video I messed up I'm an idiot if you take something apart put all the bolts back in this is another old rusty plow truck dt 466 II I can't make it leak lots of coolant using my special bolt resizer it's now a 3/8 and would you believe if I told you it was rusted in place if I mentioned this truck is rusty there's one of the oil pump bolts I think that's the back side of our crack I took the old sawzall blade and just zipped right through that steel sleeve pretty much every other tapped hole on this cover is either stripped or has already been helicoid and it looks pretty good I think it's going to be fine personally I'm kind of in the devil you know camp [Music] well something's wrong I'm not getting any oil pressure so we could have a problem with that gasket I did not replace it this is the new one I left the old one in place put the pump back together but I'm gonna use some of this really thick assembly Lube thing hadn't been so rusty it really wouldn't take him that long at all alright guys my rusty plow truck is back ever since I fixed it now fixed it it's been having problems starting and sometimes you have to crank it a long time to get it to start sometimes it starts right up doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to it every time that it doesn't want to start if I take the temperature sensor out of the high-pressure oil reservoir and check it the oil level is low there's still some oil in it but the oil level is pretty low now there's been a few other small problems twice now the the oil has puked out of the breather tube but it only happens when it's extremely cold outside and even with the block heater on one time it did that so I don't know what the cause is there but it's a lot of oil that comes out of that that breather tube when it happens but that's only happened twice and I can't get it to happen consistently they're fed up with it and I don't blame them so we're gonna have to try to fix that it this thing should start right up and run just fine kind of pulling my hair out over it there's a few other minor problems he says the fuel sending unit does not work on the fuel tank here so you see it's all green and crusty I imagine we're gonna find either an electrical issue or the floats stuck he said it so it shows about half a tank all the time even when they fill it all the way up there's also a bad air leak whenever you press the brake pedal so I suspect we're gonna find a bad diaphragm in one of the brake chambers I also noticed that it's leaking quite a lot of oil from the engine and the bottom of the oil pan is pretty wet so I kind of panicked for a minute and thought maybe I forgot to tighten up the drain plug when I drain the oil out but that's not the case x marks the spot there it's actually leaking from a hole in the side of the oil pan so that's a pretty common issue where we live it's just rust the oil pan has rusted through there's probably no chance we can weld it up or braze it up we're just gonna have to replace the pan I'm gonna drain the oil out of it though because it's probably got $80 worth of brand new oil in it that's leak not on the floor also the plow frame here is totally dickard so they welded it once before and it broke again through the weld probably just bounced it down too many frozen gravel roads now the other side is also cracked in the same spot it's just not not broken yet so we'll have to beef up both sides wah-wah-wah this is the engine oil temperature sensor on this international dt 466 e threads in right here on the back of the inner timing cover and this is the high pressure oil pump right here for the Huey system and it draws oil out of a reservoir that's built into the timing cover so you see right there there is oil in the high-pressure oil reservoir however it should be a lot higher should be about here I think the book says about a pint 'iv of oil should fit in the reservoir above the engine oil temperature sensor so if you take this sensor out and there's no oil in there you got a problem so we have a problem so ever since i resealed the timing cover on this truck it's had an intermittent no start condition so every once in a while you'll go to start it and it just won't do anything it cranks and cranks and cranks and does nothing or it kind of starts sputters and then dies and won't restart so what's happening is the oil level in this high-pressure oil reservoir is too low sometimes it runs all the way down sometimes it comes down far enough that after the truck starts it won't run long enough to build base oil pressure and refill this reservoir before all the oil is used up so I don't know what the cause of it is it seems to be very intermittent sometimes it'll all run out of there in about two hours sometimes it takes two weeks sometimes it doesn't happen at all it doesn't seem to have any rhyme or reason now the customer says they never had this problem before we took the timing cover apart so I guess that leads us to believe that we must have pinched a gasket or something inside this timing cover when we put it back together because no other variables have changed the problem is I cannot prove that without taking the timing cover back off which it's not a fun job to do well I guess I'm gonna pull the outer timing cover off and I'll bring you guys back show you what I find I mean there's nothing really to see there that we haven't seen already it's the same job I don't think there's a problem with the entertainment cover so we don't have to go quite as far but still it's a pretty big job to get the outer timing cover off you got to pull the balancer back off oil pump you got to support the engine take the front engine mounts off all this cooling system and the other garbage on the front of the engine all has to come off no sense crying about it might as well just get it done here is the outer timing cover removed from the engine and what do you think that I found go ahead and take a guess I'll give you a hint the abbreviation would be SF eh yeah absolutely nothing well this is the portion right here that is the reservoir for the high-pressure oil pump so the oil comes in here from the the oil rail and travels up this channel this section of the timing cover basically acts like a pea trap and traps oil in this area and creates a reservoir for the high-pressure oil pump so the high-pressure oil pump feeds off of the oil in this reservoir to fire the injectors so that lets the engine run for a short time and allows the oil pump to refill this cavity and if all goes according to plan it's a seamless process you don't ever notice it so we thought maybe we would find a pinched gasket that's not the case this gasket looks great so when this first happened I went to the International dealership and I talked to one of their technicians he said he's seen a similar situation before and the problem was that the timing cover was warped it wasn't flat so I just checked it with the straightedge this thing is just as flat as it can possibly be it's actually impressively flat for such a large casting so that is not the problem same story over here on the inner timing cover this thing is just as flat as it can possibly be that's not the problem I'm setting up here to run a little bit of an experiment and I just glued this piece of kind of plexiglass or whatever it is acrylic I don't know something I tried to kind of glue it on to the front timing cover using some silicone I'm gonna let that sit for 24 hours and then we're gonna come in here and fill this up with oil then we're gonna let it sit for another 24 hours and we're gonna monitor the oil level I don't think we're gonna find anything I don't think it's possible for the oil to leak down through the pump I don't know there is a passage right here in the bottom of the timing cover that allows oil to come back out into the timing cover area under very specific conditions but I don't think that can happen you know just sitting here so I'm formulating a theory and it has to do with the oil pump pickup - this is a schematic view of the low pressure oil system inside this DT 466 II this is from the service manual and it starts here this is your pickup tube that sucks the oil up out of the oil pump comes up to the front timing cover goes through the gear rotor oil pump here comes out into a passageway to the oil cooler it can either go through the oil cooler or bypass the oil cooler depending on temperature and there's a legal a little thermostat or something that opens up inside here anyway then you can't really see this one but it goes up here to this oil passage that some people call it the oil rifle it's a gun drilled pass that goes all the way through the engine and it provides oil to the main bearings and the cam bearings and eventually it makes its way to this section of the timing cover and comes up into that p-trap area that's the reservoir for the high-pressure oil pump so the high-pressure oil pump draws its oil from this section here like I said and that allows it to run until we get oil pressure feeding this reservoir again so you don't have to wait for the base oil pressure to build up in order for the engine to start because that would take forever because these things are really hard priming on the oil pump here's my theory what if there's something wrong in this section right here we're trying to suck oil from the oil pan up into the oil pump what if there's a bad gas key are a crack or something in this pickup tube and it's allowing air to mix in with the oil so now we have this aerated oil the aerated oil gets fed all the way through the system up into this reservoir so now the reservoir is completely full of aerated oil we shut the engine off we left the engine sit the air that's mixed in with the oil eventually makes its way to the top of the chamber leaving behind the oil at the bottom so the amount of air that's mixed in with the oil will determine how much oil is going to be left in this reservoir after the engine stops running and we can pull the oil temperature sensor out while the engines running and confirm that there is in fact oil making its way to the reservoir I don't have a problem there I'm wondering if maybe we have a problem with air in the oil so I don't know how to test that other than to promote the OL pan and just visually inspect the oil pickup tube and this gasket I know the gaskets there I can see it but I don't know the condition of this oil pickup - I tried to snake a borescope down in through this oil pickup - you can't do it it makes a sharp 90-degree and another sharp 90 degree turn before it goes back into the oil pen it I think the shape of it's quite a bit more complicated than what this drawing actually shows so the oil pans got to come off anyway because it's got a hole in it I think that's our next move drop the oil pan see what's going on now why would it have become a problem after we worked on this I don't know so we have these bolts out so maybe I disturbed the pickup tube a little bit opened up the crack a little bit or something like that or I caused the damage to this gasket that I didn't see that's my theory right now I should call this something catchy like watch this before you become a truck mechanic the one video you must see let me show you what we're dealing with this is the bottom end of this greasy old bastard oh boy she's been leaking oil and coolant hydraulic oil all over the floor for about four days oh there's the oil pan let's see if I can squeeze my fat belly underneath of this exhaust okay some of these bolts I already replaced because I thought I was gonna drop the oil pan the last time yeah so that's pretty typical of an oil pan bolt on this truck basically nothing left of the heck's now you would think with this thing leaking so much oil that it would have formed some kind of a protective coating over these bolts but it did not there's almost nothing left on oh that first one there looks pretty scary so oil pans junk like I said got a hole blasted right through it so we'll probably have to just cut those off with a torch and deal with them later well I'll see how many I can get out my used parts place does not have an oil pan that's any good those are all rotted out too so we're gonna have to have a new one either a new international pan or aftermarket this thing continues to be very very frustrating I got the pan off was it too terrible bed had a few bolts that came out the hard way especially that little guy but heating him with the torch beating him with the air hammer clamping them with vice grips I got them all out without torching any of them off so no worries there there's the pickup tube I did my best to pressure test it far as I can tell there's nothing wrong with it so that kills our whole theory of sucking air that's not the problem here's the front cover I filled this reservoir p-trap area up with diesel fuel let it sit for 24 hours can't see it leaking anywhere through the casting that's not the problem so our test setup here on the inner timing cover has done its job I filled it up with oil about 18 hours ago and the oil level has not come down at all so it's definitely not leaking down through the high-pressure pump at least not fast enough to cause the problem that we're having this is the o-ring right here and this is the bottom of that p-trap area and it's got a lot of flash on it but that shouldn't hurt anything because the groove is only in one side so it sits down in the groove on the outer timing cover and then the entertainment cover where it presses against this is just flat but there is an area you try to show you you see that kind of funky looking area right there it kind of looks like it might have been pinched there's a bunch of flash right here I'm wondering if maybe that was where there was a gate in the mold because you know it's a it's a kind of a t-intersection that would be a good place to gate it and maybe when they cut the gate off they didn't quite get her get her all the way off so if I take and I kind of try to pinch that here you can see I got what 15 thousandths 17 thousandths it's fairly thick whereas the flash on the rest of the parts yeah like that's only three thousandths like I said it should have shouldn't have matter because the o-ring should fit down inside that groove and all this flash should just tuck in that groove and it shouldn't cause a problem [Applause] alright fellas time to face facts there's nothing wrong with this engine other than the goober behind the camera I mean the problem with being a human which I am is that there's nobody easier to fool than yourself now which is more likely that this truck developed some kind of a bizarre one-in-a-million fault exactly the same time that we had the front cover apart to reseal it or then I just screwed up when I put it together I think you know so I ordered a new gasket set we're gonna put it right back together just like it was except we're gonna try to do a better job this time and we're gonna hope for a better result I got the timing cover cleaned up again pretty short process because it's only got like five hours on it okay from our friends at International I picked up a new oil pan gasket it's kind of a funky design real thick kind of stiff material almost 60 bucks for that stupid gasket which is unbelievable but that's not the worst I got all new bolts for the oil pan these are m8 bolts with the 10 millimeter heads there are two different lengths the longer ones go on the side where those kind of stiffener brackets go on the side of the oil pan I'll show you that later anyway what do you think international charges for these bolts they are five dollars and 70 cents apiece so there's 22 bolts in the oil pen it costs almost a hundred bucks to replace all of them that is insane I can buy basically equivalent flange head ma bolts from mcmaster-carr I can buy 50 of them for $7 that's delivered to my door I also bought another timing cover gasket set I wanted to buy just the gaskets for the outer timing cover he said it's cheaper to buy just the whole set anyway we are going to install that timing cover with a new gasket set I do not recommend that you use these o-ring style gaskets over again well I'm not so sure this is the old gasket that's the spot where I thought maybe I pinched it so this is the new gasket it looks exactly the same in that area so I don't know there's definitely that's definitely a spot where a gate is cut off or a runner you know when they when they mold these parts and it has to have a gate and then they had to cut that off and that's definitely where it shows up but I don't know I just I'm not finding that smoking gun I guess it's ready to go I trim the gasket here and then used some silicone here there and there you're supposed to silicone where the various pieces of the gasket meet meet up and the seams in the gasket or the you know the splices in the gasket are where there's no pressure that's just the the front gear area of the timing cover which can still leak but there shouldn't be you know like 50 pounds of well pressure there and then same as I did before I used some grease and just packed the gasket with grease to try to hold it in place while I set the cover in there I got anti-seize in the dowel holes cross our fingers I'm going to very very carefully install that and we are gonna hope for the best alright fellas let's have a little chat this is the oil pickup tube on this TT 466 engine there is nothing wrong with this oil pickup tube it is mounted to the engine with three bolts one of them is a short little guy like this with a washer goes through this little bracket vertically into the bottom of the engine the other two bolts look like this they come horizontally through the timing cover into the suction tube and they hold the suction tube to the back of the timing cover and basically to the back of the oil pump now I was installing the oil pump on the timing cover and I started thinking I don't remember taking these two bolts loose and then I started looking I could not find these two bolts anywhere I will give you one guess why I couldn't find these bolts that's correct I did not install them the last time I put this truck together I'm about about 95 percent sure that's the case so yeah the only thing holding the pickup tube in was this one bolt through the bracket here to the bottom of the block and this gasket was still there attached to the suction tube but it was not clamped to the back of the timing cover it was basically just sitting there flapping in the breeze at least I'm pretty sure it was so how do we want to look at this I guess our air suction theory was correct but for the wrong reason the reason was not that the pickup tube was cracked the reason was that I'm an idiot and I forgot to put the freaking bolts back in so yeah this is a very costly lesson to always check your work I can't believe that I'm positive that's the problem I'm positive that I didn't put these bolts back in let me go show you where they're at you can sort of understand where I'm coming from well let me try to show you guys where those bolts would be located so there's your oil pump right there on the front of the timing cover all the way down here at the bottom see those two notches that's where the bolts for the pickup too should be located so I think the reason I didn't catch that number one is because I didn't didn't check I didn't look and number two is because we were we replaced all of the hardware in the timing cover the last time it was apart so you remember how rusty this thing was you know I I would have noticed if I had two bolts left over but because I was replacing them with all-new you know I just didn't catch it so yeah man I feel stupid unbelievably stupid I mean that that problem right there probably cost me 10 hours of work and 250 maybe $300 worth of parts over two freaking bolts that I forgot I can't believe it worked at all I mean you remember in that second video when I had trouble getting the oil pump to prime I mean of course I had problems getting it to prime the freaking suction tube was it connected to the timing cover yeah unbelievable and that explains our our eye pressure reservoir there wasn't a problem with the gasket it was just aerated oil just like I said so anyway yeah I'm gonna put it back together and we're gonna move on but man I feel stupid one new oil pan this is a Dorman Chinese aftermarket oil pan international wants $700 for a new oil pan I can sell them this one for less than $300 so I gave them the choice obviously they chose to go aftermarket now I don't know how good or bad this Dorman thing is I do know that it is exactly the same size and shape and it should bolt right up now I recall I believe it was rich at deboss garage made a video about a five nine Cummins that was destroyed by an aftermarket oil pan I think it was probably a dormant and what happened was that they used this same crappy black paint on the inside of the oil pan and the paint peeled off and clogged the pickup tube and basically started the engine for oil anyway that's the kind of risk you take with aftermarket parts but you know how can you blame them that's it's less than a half the cost and you know I'd be surprised if this trucks got another five years in it so you know how much money do we really want to go winging at it these are the side supports for the oil pan so these go along the side of the pan and I guess just kind of help keep the thing flat anyway they're just made from some some kind of bar stock but you can see there's not a whole lot left of them they're just so rusty the left side is not so bad the right side is really bad I did my best to try to kind of straighten it out but you can probably see on the camera it just kind of does this between every bolt hole just from where the rust jacking has pushed it out and there's nothing we can do about that I don't know I did not inquire about new ones I hate to think about what they would cost we could make them but I don't think it's that critical I got the top side of the engine all put back together you know nothing to see there same as we did before just this time I'm a little faster at it I don't know how this is going to work but we'll try to show you a little bit here of the bottom side of the engine so just like the top side of the engine it is very very rusty especially over here on the right side you can see kind of along the bottom skirt here the block how rough and corroded that is I chipped off all the big rust and kind of tried my best to clean it up but it's still pretty pretty rough so I don't know what we're gonna do it probably just have to put some silicone on the top side of that well-paying gasket and kind of just do one of these and hope for the best there's nothing else we can do I thought about maybe just taking the oil pan gasket out completely I'm just using silicone I'm not sure how that would work I don't see what it would hurt anyway yeah pretty rough down here look at that oil cooler I'm telling you that things about ten seconds away from rusting all the way through same with the oil return to from the turbo yeah I'm gonna make sure that doors are locked when the when that thing finally blows because I do not want to get involved look at that pedestal the pedestals are aluminum see the steel bolt that goes all the way through that thing we'll never get those out might as well just cut them off order new pedestals and a new cooler try to get the bolts out of the block that's all you could do anyway they're really pushing me to get this thing back they want to plow some snow with it so I think for the time being we're gonna have to pretend that we don't see that power steering hose rubbing through on the air compressor bracket so it might be leaking a little bit already but I do not have time to fix it right now don't work we'll put a little bit of RTV silicone just a light film on one side of the gasket and then we'll leave the pan side as is all righty folks I think we're about done I got the new oil pan install all torqued up looks good refilled the oil it was about about five quarts low so all that makes sense you know now oil pan was leaking pretty badly I also refilled the coolant and I used a pretty cool tool that I picked up not too long ago this is a vacuum coolant refilling tool and you know I kind of live in my own little bubble over here so I wasn't I wasn't really that familiar with these tools I watched a video from Super Mario Diagnostics and he showed how to use his version of this tool and I asked him a few questions he answered those questions and I decided I needed to have one so I just jumped on eBay and bought the cheapest one I could possibly find because I wanted to try it out as a little bit skeptical and I am completely sold this thing is awesome so I'll probably use this one for a little while until I finally break it because the whole thing is plastic and I'm sure it's not gonna it's not going to live very long around here and then I'll buy a better one but yeah pretty sweet tool and I think I paid 30 bucks for this thing on eBay yeah I don't see how you can really go wrong with one of these it's super simple just uses a compressed air to form a venturi that pulls a vacuum inside the cooling system and then you use that vacuum to suck the coolant right back into the engine and then that way you don't have any you know air bubbles or anything like that the thing just fills right up [Music] [Music] well this tubes been cracked for a long time you can tell by how rusty it is in the crack there and it's been welded several times looks like - to varying degrees of success so that obviously the backsides the hardest part and they didn't do the greatest job there it's also cracked this way behind this big bracket so I'm not sure what we're gonna do yet this is actually pretty stand I think it's only three eighths and I thought that this was gonna be like the other plow frames I've seen they're made from two pieces of of angle welded together but this is actually just a box section so a little bit different all right got our tube all feet out and prepped ready to weld I went ahead and picked the whole plow up a little bit and just set it on a jack stand so I can get to the bottom side not quite sure how I want to fix it I'm thinking so obviously the the tube cracked on both sides right at the end of where this this hoop comes around has the swing frame or whatever you want to call it and it seems like they didn't build this quite right what they should have done is triangulated from the outer most point of the blade back to the kind of back to the pivot here I attempted to weld up what I thought was a small crack at the top of this vertical rib turned out that that was really just arrests rust hole and this whole area here is super thin so I did the best I could to kind of patch it together and we're gonna throw some paint on that and forget about it everything else is welded within an inch of its life and that's probably as far as I'm gonna go with it I don't know about putting any fish plates or or welding any brackets or gussets on here because I don't know there's parts of this plow that are missing because for whatever reason it doesn't appear to have any shoes you know the the little feet that the plow rides on and I've never seen a plow before that didn't have like guide shoes or whatever their technical term for it is so that's got to be something that's missing I would think maybe they bolt right here to this bracket all right same idea on the other side there's kind of a low spot right here I tried to build that up a little bit it looks to me like there was probably another one of those l-shaped brackets welded right here originally and for whatever reason they they've cut it off so I don't know if that's part of the reason why that's starting to crack or if it has nothing to do with it I don't know anyway I'm gonna throw some paint on that and then I'm gonna get out of here because it's way past quittin time okay fellas moment of truth I let the engine sit overnight because I wanted the silicone that we put on the oil pan there to cure a little bit before we tried to run it it's supposed to cure for 24 hours it's only been about 18 hours but you know we just put that real thin thin film on there so I think we're gonna be just fine I have already primed the high-pressure oil pump reservoir so I just took the the engine oil temperature sensor out squeezed you know maybe a quart of oil in there and put the temperature sensor back in and I also packed the main engine oil pump with grease just like we had to do before to get it to prime up so let's see what happens [Music] okay yeah it's gotta be this this chamber right here is it the hose I think [Music] okay so I think it might be both the hose is definitely leaking and the pancake show you guys how I change that brake chamber diaphragm real quick first step need air pressure we just ran it till we hit purge on the air dryer so 120 pounds and then you need to release your brakes but the first step before you can release the brakes make sure you chock the wheels I'll tell you a story he's working a truck repair shop and we had two trucks in the shop both with their hoods open just like this one and sitting across from each other you know two bays you know the trucks were nose to nose anyway that the shop was set up so the floor would slope towards the middle and there's a floor dream and a guy brought a truck in to grease it he jacked the front axle up released the brakes and forgot to chock the wheels and the truck jumped off the jack rolled forward and the hood that was open crashed into the another truck that was in front of it they had its hood open and basically destroyed the hoods on both trucks so chuck your wheels so here's our brake can our brake chamber and right now the brakes are released so I can move this like adjuster around as I want to it looks like it's pretty stiff anyway that is the most important part do not try to remove this brake chamber with the brakes set there's an immense amount of pressure in here from the spring inside this this brake chamber and if you take this band off while it's pushing on the slack adjuster it's gonna come flinging off of there that actually happened to me one time scared the crap out of me and probably could have hurt me pretty badly so a couple of things I do I always leave the hoses hooked up that way if you pop this thing off and it goes flying the hoses are gonna catch it the other thing you can do if you're nervous about it is take this plug out of the end of the chamber and cage the brakes so go ahead and put a caging bolt in here and hold the spring compressed now the air will do that for us so we don't technically have to do that but if you want to be safe that's the best way now normally the caging bolt will be stored right here in this hole you see that whoever put these brake chambers on decided to just go ahead and throw those in their toolbox usually they're rusted in they're so bad that you can't get them out anyway so it doesn't really matter anyway what we're gonna do is take this v-band clamp off and separate the brake can from the base here so usually when you replace these brake chambers they do what they call a piggyback so they just replaced from here out and they leave the can that they leave the base and the in the old push rod because if you had to replace the entire chamber you got to get these nasty-looking bolts out and you got have got to measure the rod and get all the geometry right so that the automatic slack adjusters will work and it looks like these probably don't work anyway because I think this brackets rusted off but that's a problem for another day anyway we're going to take this bolt out here take this B band clamp out there's two bolts on it yeah now if you ever see a brake chamber that has a v-band clamp here on the emergency side of the brake chamber don't mess with it back in the day they used to make this a serviceable item so you could take the brake hand apart but like I said there's a massive spring inside here and I believe it's actually been illegal to make those brake chambers for a long time but every once in a while you see in an old time truck that has one of those serviceable brake chambers and guys have been killed by those you know they take the wrong side off and that clamp that springs under immense pressure in there comes flying out of there and whacks them in the head or or the gut or something and kills them so if you ever see one that has a clamp here that's removable just replace the whole chamber as fast as you can because those are scary dangerous oh who put this freaking thing on well then they made it so I couldn't put an impact on it which is not very nice so this is the diaphragm or you know in the in the business we call it a pancake and people hate it when I use you know pet names for stuff instead of the technical term so it is technically a diaphragm but I guarantee that if you walk into any truck parts place in the United States and ask for a brake chamber pancake a 30-30 pancake this is what you're gonna get so I went ahead and cleaned up this surface right here the the diaphragm does not seal against that surface but if it's not clean then it can affect how it pinches against the the chamber itself you won't get a good seal also I'm gonna have to go back and review the footage that I just shot but I think they had this brake chamber in backwards you see this is how it's supposed to be put in then you see how the rusty side is on the inside I think they had it I don't know like this some way anyway whatever we're gonna put it on like this well this is the new one right here and I keep these in stock well the the common sized ones anyway that 30s and the 20 floors got us a new brake hose and it's even the right length looks good I'll go ahead and get that installed I'm not gonna film putting that in because I can't even hardly fit underneath this truck it's such a low a low drag er anyway if you can't find the right size I don't know if it's totally kosher but I have pieced these together before you know you just use a little union and this little adapter and just splice together enough short pieces to get the length that you need anyway these guys are kind of hard on airlines this is one that I replaced about a week ago on a different truck they had a little bit too big of a hole in the exhaust pipe well I had to show you guys this here's the new air hose we just installed there's that quick release valve but check out this other air hose that goes to the same side on the rear axle and she is kinked right off so I don't know what's going on with that I'm gonna try to cut those zip ties loose and well loosen this fitting up here to see if we can straighten that out because it it can't be working like it is I mean not very well okay I think that looks a little bit better I don't have any explanation for how that happened I mean that's a swivel fitting up there there's no reason that it should be coiled up like that yeah I don't know all right guys we got to cut the video here they want the truck back it's supposed to snow tonight and they want to get it ready they want to take the salt out of the box and get new salt put in and check the plow and make sure everything's ready to go so I've got a scramble around here and get cleaned up and get the thing out the door I don't like that I don't have time to check you know a few things on the engine we haven't really done any testing with it but it seems to start and run good it's out here for two weeks well not quite two weeks about a week and a half and it basically started right up just by priming that high-pressure reservoir so I think the problem was that we had air in the oil and then it was also feeding air into the Huey system remember this engine uses oil to fire the injectors and if we had oil mixed with air trying to fire the injectors you know pressures pressure so when it's running it's gonna work but after the engine sits and the oil cells to the bottom and the air settles to the top now it's basically like you have air in the Huey system anytime you have air in that Huey system they won't start they had to crank a long time and you know it takes a long time for that to bleed out and basically that's happening to it every time because we're introducing air into the oil anyway guys I guess if you want the five second version of this video I messed up I'm an idiot if you take something apart put all the bolts back in and yeah learning that lesson was very costly for me but we got it fixed now the customers happy I think so let's just move on there's no sense crying about it anyway I don't know how much of a video is gonna come out of this it's kind of just thrown together but I want to post it because you know this is a mistake that could happen to other people you might as well let it happen to me so it doesn't happen to you alright guys thanks for sticking it out that one really fought me and this is a a wonderful site in my opinion

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 198,248

Rating: 4.9581723 out of 5

Keywords: international, navistar, dt466, dt466E, no start, hard start, hard starting, long crank, extended crank, oil, oil leak, oil level, HPOP, HPOP reservoir, HPOP reservior, gasket, seal, fix, repair, replace, mechanic, technician, test, diagnose, troubleshoot, bolt, rust, sloppy, mistake, comeback

Id: ZfQte6LscH0

Length: 47min 21sec (2841 seconds)

Published: Mon Feb 17 2020