DIY Drywall Part 4 | Drywall Taping Masterclass for Beginners!

hey it's Jeff from home renovation and you know our YouTube channel is generally designed to give people lots of ideas tips tricks advice construction technologies and how to do renovations at home but today we're kicking it a little bit old-school we're gonna go back and I'm taking care of the drywall taping today doing corners inside outside first second coats we're gonna go through the whole process as I take through this room and I'm gonna show you how to do it with some basic tools we're gonna go back to just the old fashioned I've got my Hawk I've got a four by ten knife I got my four inch I've got my kill spray I got a knife and a paper tape and a drill that's it if you have this well plus the bench if you've got this set up you can tape like a pro and we're gonna show you how so let's just get right into it so the first step you've got when you're taking care of your drywall job is your preparation it's it's a necessary evil because you want to make sure you've gone through the whole room taking care of all the issues because a lot of the repairs you're gonna want to do before you get started are going to create dust and dirt and crap falling around and you don't want that falling into your drywall compound or what I call it mud you don't want it falling into your mud in the wall after you put it on there cuz that just makes a mess so what you're looking for is to take your 4 inch knife or you're running around your screws as long as it makes that nice scratching sound you're good I got a fine one here this wrong no there it is you can hear that so even though we have a dimple or set on our screw gun that's gonna happen occasionally if the screws going in on an angle okay it's probably my son he always puts the screws in in an angle just give a little bit of a tight map make sure you don't have any contact anymore the other thing you want to look for is certain areas like I remember when we were screwing this drywall on the wood backing only comes out to here and so you know this screw is embedded this screw isn't but the best way to get a screw is to get it spinning and then push the screw head to the side so the threads will grab the drywall you know it'll back out a little bit lynnie doesn't connect right so we take the end of this knife here and we make a dent whenever you have an imperfection in a wall you want to create a dent because I dent can be filled right here's another one here's another one this is all part of the prep right para let's get up here now you want to check your corner you don't wanna be hitting any drywall when you're running down the wall right you want that nice and clean because then your metal just can stick nice and tight against the wall if you have bumps and raised sections it's going to cause an issue I got some down there alright so this is going to be an outside corner and if you have a little tour paper here on the outside corner it's not an issue but if you have torn paper somewhere else or if your drywall get installed upside down and then those homeowners that happens sometimes you measure and you don't think properly so you have this huge amount of brown paper face shelling right you can't apply a drywall compound on that so we have a trick with my favorite products in the world just an oil-based aerosol primer alright and what that does is it creates a bit of a moisture lock to protect that brown paper from the compound while it's drying there we go done five minutes that'll be dry you can put compound over top of that and you're gonna have no problem at all worth the suede and gold so once you know that all your screws are sunk properly your corners are good your torn paper issues are dealt with any imperfections or dented and ready for you filled the only other thing you want to double-check make sure you have enough screws in the drywall sheet a lot of times when you're putting in drywall you know you get moving ahead so fast you'll miss the screw here or there or a whole row make sure it's all done because once you pull out the taping tools you're not going to have the drill on you anymore and you just don't want to go backwards in time so make sure you walk through the room get everything prepped now it's time to blow up the pail of mud let's talk about mud for a second alright so drywall compound is a it's an interesting product because there's different companies that manufacture these products in different areas in both countries anywhere you go this is called machine mud our company is CGC that we have in this area they make a whole line of sheetrock products and it doesn't really matter where you live you're gonna have different companies selling the same product but the important issue here is down here so to answer all the questions we've been getting if you have a lightweight all-purpose right ready-mixed compound that's what you're looking to buy it doesn't matter what the name is or how they marketed and brand it that's the product so we have three or four maybe five different drywall compounds available on the market that are lightweight ready mixed and so it doesn't really matter which one you use the reality is every single one of them has one thing in common even though it says ready mixed it's not ready to be applied to the wall okay you still have to put in a pail and have a couple cups of water and mix it up and we're going to get into that process a little bit later to show you about it but I've just enough mud left over my pail right now that I can finish taping this so we're gonna do that then we're going to show you how to put on your corners we're gonna show you how to mix the special quick drying compound to fill all your corners then we're gonna show you how to mix your mud and set up another pail of that and do a second coat on the whole room stay with us we got a lot to cover and hopefully we'll be able to help teach you something you have a little bit more very important when you're working with drywall tools and compounds keep your stuff clean I mix this drywall a couple of days ago and what I do is I take my sponge and actually wipe the edges in them and knock it all down and keep it nice and moist and not crusty because the chunks are what's gonna get you on a job like this once it starts drying out and getting the chunky it's no longer drywall compound it's just a mess you should throw it out okay so we're gonna set the tape in the drywall now there's really only a couple things you need to know first and you want to apply your mud now Wow we've seen guys showing techniques like throwing all of this mud on the wall exists right holy cow that's just ridiculous we're gonna spend all day long putting on and taking it off all right put your mud on your knife hold it sideways all right that's why you put drywall mud on the walls right there you don't make a mess it's not going on the floor there's no more there than what you actually need okay you can go both directions off the side of the knife and then you just lightly flatten that out yes there we go so we're just gonna set the paper in here if you want to know where the middle of the joint is you can go like this you can feel it right press the middle of there lightly press it in not too hard here okay that's for the homeowners this is a great little system to help keep you in line because you don't want to end up taping off the line like that you basically are gonna set the tape with the four inch knife now by pressing it in okay and you can see your that it's dry you cover the tape with a little bit of mud and then take it right back off again all right that makes it wet and used to stop if you keep playing with this it actually starts to absorb enough moisture it gets wrinkled it stretches it's gonna make a mess on you okay so the secret here is to work quickly press the extra mud compound up from underneath get it wet take the extra off and the reason you want to have your wet tape wet it on the wall is because what tape doesn't bubble if you don't get it wet before or after it's gonna bubble on you so this is the secret to a nice tape job now I know guys it'll wet their tape is a little pale before they put it on the wall that drives me crazy because then it's already getting wrinkly the whole time you're working with it I find this is a great way to do it because it goes on dry you can get it done quickly before it goes wrinkly and you're not pulling off the wall and stretching it up and cutting it over and over and over again so my process for taping is to do all of my flats and that means I've got a factory joint with a factory joint or small sections like this right this is not a factory joint but I'm going to put an outside corner be an inside corner it's going to get covered up so well it's not really an issue but I want to make sure that it's not going to crack so we're just gonna apply some compound I always work with your hock like this becomes a drip tray as well that's something you're never gonna have when you're working with that little pan I hate those things there's people then talk about the difference between using the pan and using a hock and what the benefit is one versus the other so the reality is hock holds more mud helps keep your site clean it helps keep you clean I find guys that work with those pans on forever covered in mud and filthy job sites so I always got the drippings everywhere if you're doing a good job with your taping you should be able to walk away as clean as you started so when you're working keep your tools clean keep the mud off the edges always working it back into the middle so that it doesn't start to dry out on you okay now we've taken our paper tape and this stuff comes creased this has a crease line in it okay so it's almost it's ready to fold so what I do is I take a quick look at my room and I know I ever see the dry walls four feet so I go 4 feet 8 feet same as the other corner look I got a sealing edge there I'll be enough right there there we go now I got all my inside corners already folded ready to roll sitting on the floor ok and that is going to speed up the process dramatically every time you go to do some taping you got to stop and do a crease it will drive you crazy so they using the drywall knife you are gonna find that the best way to use this knife is off the side it's a playing this way so you can load it up with mud and slowly force it out ok and I loading it I mean like that's it and you wanted to run it out it takes a little bit of practice right there's a bit of an art form involved with this but the system is seems simple enough and you're gonna want to fill the bottom part and the top part sometimes the best way to learn how to do this I just sit and watch this over and over and over again now I am not using any pressure this is just flattening out the mud okay getting in those excess out of there I got too much gap there I'm gonna fill that up with mud now we're ready for - no this is my technique throw it all up on the wall it'll hold your tape in place because you can set your hawk down and you're always gonna have your tape available okay now because it's pre-folded we just stick it in the corner slide it nice and tight all right there we go we get our hot because we're gonna want to have the ability to clean this as we go all right we're gonna set the tape into the mud with a moderate amount of pressure here all right there we go the same thing going back the other way if you do the top going to the left and the bottom one to the right you'll keep your tape from sliding along the wall and if you get a ridge like that just pull it towards you all right work it into the corner sweet remember in this situation less is more if you put too much compound in behind your tape it takes forever to dry and then you're gonna add days and days of work okay now I'm just wetting the tape here now just like we did down on the on the flat putting a little bit on taking it off and this is where edgy I'm actually going to apply a first coat of mud on the sealing section okay boom catch all those drips with your Hawk there we go nice and clean that's gonna happen alright now now I have mud on the ceiling I want to clean this up so I'm going to use the knife like this with pressure okay and I'm gonna gently come along and just flatten out that lead edge same coming back the other way okay so now I have no Ridge on the face I'm gonna take my knife along here and I'm basically getting rid of all the extra mud that's on the bottom side and on the inside of that corner okay now we replace that in the corner and I'm gonna go gentle pressure just to flatten it out all right there we go and then I'm gonna pull back I always move your tool towards the finish and then one more good clean there we go that's how you set your mud you've got your tape and you've got your first coat on the ceiling you have no excess mud on the bottom side of that tape so tomorrow when it's dry you can come back and do the bottom and have a nice hard solid surface to press your knife against you don't have a ridge over here there's nothing to scrape nothing to sanding between coats that is a perfect application here we go yeah when your corners intersect it doesn't matter you still want to put a full complement of mud on the corner off the side of the knife right over top of the flats there from before remember this is a factory edge so it actually has a dip so it's nice to fill that before you do your corner makes it a little bit straighter [Music] just flatten it out if you see dry sections of the wall where there's no mud put the compound in there and fill it up don't leave it where the happy units fill those gaps with the compound okay the gaps are really big you can mix up a little bit about 45-minute mud and you can fill all your gaps in advance we actually did a video on that I should probably lift that in the description below just to help people out in case you need that now here we go so I'm gonna put this tape up in the corner but I don't want a rough edge like that she's gonna hold my knife err all right tear that up nice and square now it's ready to be embedded up there there we go shut all the way down in the bottom hold the knife and just tear off paper now we're gonna start a couple inches from the top pressing that paper in this okay and then I'm gonna press it up that'll keep it from sliding down okay and I'm just putting in that little bit of pressure in that corner there upset that tape I always want to finish nice and clean now I mean another wall there there we go gonna help work the tape into the corner a little bit you know help to avoid tears all right if there's a wrinkle put your man like that if it's if it's bubbling like that if it's not if it's not sticking down you can always just come back with your knife hoarse little mutt in there alright get good contact once it's set yeah that way that actually rhyme that's a great way to remember it we need to know your tape is wet when it hits the wall it won't bubble bubbling tape is the number one problem that you're gonna face in this business because the next that you come back it bubbled up it's hollow it's in behind there you have to cut the tape out you have to reattach it you lose a whole day of production watching that dry just maddening and that's if you're lucky sometimes you want to see the bubble until the second of the third day depending on the lady in the room then you're really in trouble because now you're ready to stand in Prime and you got to go back to the beginning on that joint alright sounds like my boy now just like on the ceiling I'm going to take compound and we're gonna finish one side I usually do the left side first just a habit no real reason for it okay and then I'm going to start here then we didn't work my way back to the finish okay I'm gonna set this in the corner create a nice groove clean out all the excess on the other side run it back I already go no need to sand between coats just thing to clean up nice and clean let's do [Music] okay so this is the area where we have the torn paper and that's dry now [Music] [Music] this is all the situations where I have a something that didn't get dented for a looter there's no way you can pull a nice unless you're filling the hall right beautiful [Music] open up put your knife corner right in the middle find that edge right there here we go clean that edge to have a truly professional drywall job means time and patient when you're setting the table this is the point where you make or break your entire job too much mud you've got to be filling in stretching not enough mind you're gonna have things bubbling it's a nice combination of filling it and not having too much there and creating nice smooth lines I only need to put one more coat of mud on this inside corner and it is finished money in the bank all right now quick recap we've done our flats we've done our inside corners and we've filled one side of the inside corners which is important because there's mud in behind the joint and there's a lot of fill and that usually takes a little extra time to dry so I would suggest after you're done for the day put on the fan put in the meantime now we got to take care of our screws so again we're gonna use that off the side of the knife approach I'm going to demonstrate this nice and casually here for you so you're gonna keep this down here pressed against all and you're slowly gonna release the mud going up so you're filling a hole you're gonna push it into the hole this way and then you're gonna hold your knife tight to the wall and pull it down that way all right you know push it in one motion really all right and you get good at this you can make really quick work of a room and then you want to do the bottom as well now don't go all the way down to the bottom of the floor because the last row of screws should be where your baseboards are gonna go and you don't really need to worry about filling those road screw there okay ah ones now that we've got the screws filled it's time to put on all over outside quarters and then we're gonna mix the other 45-minute mud we'll show you that whole process fill those corners and then we'll mix the regular mud and show you how to do that as well and then we're gonna do a topcoat on all of those outside corners because it dries so fast you can get two coats in about an hour just now that all the joints are taped and the screws are all filled we're gonna move on to the outside corners and all you want to do here is just get a measurement one side to the other and this is a measuring technique that I use I extend the tape and then I run it over to the corner and 74 and 1/8 and that's when I go like this because undoubtedly if you're anything like me right about the time that you take a measurement somebody calls you to ask you a question the phone will ring the dog will bark the bell will ring at the door just do this once write it down and then something happens you still have your measurement later so I found the best way to measure and cut these is just to run your tape inside the bead and then bring your snaps over to the line bring your snips over the line give that be to cut finish that hold this so it doesn't bend over on you and start it a little bit below the cut and angle up towards it just that couple of degrees makes all the difference in the world the perfect world they would send these 85 degrees instead of 90 I don't know why but I love to just give them a bit of a squeeze to close them up just a hair so that when I'm putting them installing them helps to establish a little more angle for filling with the mud I'll show you what I mean said it here you see you have you have room to press it into place right so that helps you to establish where you roll it around this is the most outward point on this surface and on this surface so if I set it right here I could put my knife and you see the shadow and behind it so the idea here is that you want to have a gap right from the corner to the tip of the knife and that's something you can fill without moving that check the other side see if there's a gap there so you might want to roll it up to create there see that roll it up to create a gap but now that you may find that happy place right there in the middle where you can fill both sides to this corner from the wall that's where you want a nail in place now a little bit of experience goes a long way here because I can tell where the right spot is just by looking at it but demonstrating that with a knife vision understanding of what you're looking for you can see that there's two rows of holes here the one in the middle is actually for the drywall compound to go in and actually bond between the wall and the metal the other row is where you want to put your nails we're using the blue-ringed nail here it's a very thin flat head and that is designed so that when you install it it's not in the way of your knife so that it is not causing intersection with the taping knife when you're putting your compound on to use screws and Dudley they're gonna be sticking out too far and you're gonna go click click click when your fill in your mud you're gonna have a problem on your hands you have to drive the screws too deep you're gonna be bending and twisting the metal causing all kinds issues learn how to use the hammer in the nails and you're gonna be a lot happier with your corners pay very close attention when you put your next bead on that you are running that up and you're exactly the same depth okay you don't want to be too high or too low that's a nasty-looking corner get it right there on the money okay and then nail back here so that if you have to make a minor adjustment you still have a little bit of flexibility before you set the second nail and that's the only secret of putting in corner beads looks like it the rest is up it's time for us to mix our 45 minute compound do a fill coat and this time for second coat so now that all of our metals are on we're gonna do two coats on the metals and our second coat with regular compound on the walls so here's the secret we have our sheet rock 45 I have warm water in the pail and this house were up in the country so it's also well water so there's lots of minerals in it this stuff is gonna dry superfast super super fast so what we're gonna do is I'm gonna mix it I'm gonna use the four inch knife from my Hawk and I'm gonna apply just a fill coat just a couple of inches worth of look now this entire ceiling area here we're gonna add crown molding from here to here which is why it's not taped so I don't need to have a whole lot of mud underneath here I don't want to put too much on here make a mess in my course and we'll use a four-inch knife as well if I use this knife here I'm just gonna be making a mess of everything it's too big on the outside corner over here bump bump bump I'm gonna use this knife to fill a nice six or 8 inch kind of wide swath alright so once I mix this I've got about ten or fifteen minutes tops so I'm gonna just run like the wind and try to get all this on and then we will show you how to do all the second coat on the inside corners and flats and then we're gonna come back and put another coat over top of this within the hour [Music] [Music] we're definitely a little bit runny here [Music] [Music] so I would side corners generally speaking we're just filling the gap from here to here but we see this corner here these are two different pieces and that metal edge there you want to have some tape on there because that's the only place in this whole system that's likely to crack and we use the hook to hold that still so get that tape installed there press nice and tight now we can get some mud on our Hawk and we can just travel that down around the corner little sloppy all right one of these things about 45 minute but when you mix it you wanna mix it a little bit loose not too loose that the raining all over you a little loose especially in the country especially with warm water you want the setup fast but if you don't mix a little loose you won't have enough work at a time to get advantage of it here we go so it's gonna be a little bit sloppy we're not looking for smooth all this bubbling is irrelevant because we are just filling the filling the gaps we'll put a smooth coat on in a minute soon as this sets up and hardens we're just trying to reduce the amount of work as far as days and we're involved for filling these gaps by filling it all right now okay you just want to put it on and because it's loose pulling up helps okay clean the edges [Music] they're using this knife you can you can use it two ways you can pull it this way or you can reach down and roll your hand under a little bit and pull it up this way it'll help you so you don't have to bend over quite so burning near the ground like I pulled a little too hard so it started off as pretty loose stuff five minutes ago look at this because it was warm water just like putting playdough on the ceiling now that is crazy like I said don't worry about the look at this it's the function that's important the fact that that is filled up that's all no regard just just done so just a recap because I know when we do these types of videos people get a little confused we're using our all-purpose mud for everything and we use the 45-minute might as a supplement to help speed our process up so you can fill all your gaps and cracks you can use it as the first coat on the corner beads just to fill the gap you could even use it to fill your screw holes if you wanted to and that'll save you a little bit of time with then you don't need a third coat on your screw holes if you do it that way but as a rule if you're new at this and you're just learning how mixing everything and doing everything with regular all-purpose compound is a benefit and here's why you can put your lid on it and you can use it again next day when you mix your 45 their clock is ticking it will start off soft like you just saw and then it'll start to stiffen up and then WHAM it just goes rock-hard and there's no saving that for the next day so it's very handy to have that in your repertoire and understanding that you have options if you're in hurry you're doing repairs that's a great thing as well I just in the habit of using it all the time now it's part of my process because it takes a full day to tape most projects we put the paper tape on and on your second day you can do your corner beads do your first code mix another pail of regular compound and then you can do your second coat on everything in the second day and this is just a little way that I've got designed to get a lot of that mud out without getting filthy ok you can squeeze it out and save every drop if you want stuff is almost twenty dollars a bag which makes that last handful worth about fifty cents and usually I'm just not in the mood to save fifty cents and get covered in mud so here we go I've got a full pail of mud there this is 8 ounces of water I'm willing it at about 6 when I want my mud ultra-smooth for my third coat I'll go the full 8 ounces on a box but for the second coat 6 is plenty alright so just squeeze the pail together start nice and low it's going to vibrate a lot if you bring the blade up too high you'll get water splashing everywhere [Music] [Music] to get that back in your pail of water so that nothing goes hard and crunchy so here's our mud it's nice and hard 20 minutes ago I was just finishing the last application on the Sumer is like play-doh now you can take your knife and just run all these extra ridges off okay create a nice flat surface so we can finish this up here we go now this is our all-purpose compound that is designed for different drywall machines and I love using it all the time remember I roll because we're adding crown molding it's just to have a perfect three inches here on the bottom I don't have to go all the way to the top just create a nice little finish coat here and the best thing about the second coat is again it doesn't have to be perfect after second coat all right you have the luxury of coming back one more time to make things perfect all right now this is how you can get your corners filled up in one afternoon we just put these metals on okay we mixed up to 45 warm water and within just a few minutes its rock-hard and ready for another coat absolutely amazing right you'll see my program here this is the first coat remember and the paper didn't do but I did put a coat on the ceiling finishing this outside corner and I'm doing the bottom side of the inside corner they don't intersect it's nice to just have a plan so that you're running against something nice and dry remember the way that we did our corners is we clean the edge we went like this and then we came back and did this the first time there's this thing now that's rock hard now I can actually put my knife up against it and use it as an edge it makes a perfect corner a lot of fun here you can use a lot of motor a little bit of mud if you use too much money you'll have pity you see that just run your blame a little bit of pressure okay climbing all that out that's what you're looking for it's better to come back with an extra coat then to try to put too much mud on at one time all right that's perfect now the next time I come in here I'm not going to use a four inch knife on the ceiling I'm going to use a five or six so it goes from here to here and I will do one more nice ball and that'll make this look absolutely perfect there you go you can see the first coat I did this corner yesterday this is nice and dry right just double check on your blade around looking for any little bumps that might be left why not go right into the corner and pull your mud away okay yeah remember we always want to pull towards the finish way so you're never gonna be perfect when you do that but it's so easy to say it okay that's nice same for this the corner be right use the side of the knife get it in there you want this to be a four inch wide blade like your knife is okay you're gonna want to take your knife clean the outside edge put it in here groove that edge and then you're gonna come back and then just pull straight down you'll flatten it into the corner and have a perfect inside 90 all right at that point there's anything left on the other side you want to fuss around right ahead but the important thing is to have a perfect inside corner that's how that's done again hit all your screw holes all right just to make sure every time you pass over a wall you hit the screw holes it takes three coats of regular mud or one coat of 45 and one coat of varnish no well get down off the ladder and we'll show you the rest of the joint okay so I'm just going to finish the inside corner here real quick and you can be even a little bit sloppy here if you want right flatten it out the important thing is to have more mud than you need okay you don't have to be perfect there we go now they're just made a huge mess here for you I'll show you how to fix that okay so there's something to fill when I come back with the main pressure I'll clean the outside now I'm just gonna run up the middle and almost do that by the hole then it will close all the gap up just hit it a second time whoops there we go that's about as perfect as you're gonna get except right there okay now you'll see that here you have your your paper embedded in the mud you can see that we had a little bit of a thin finish coat over top of it just to keep it nice and wet there's absolutely no bubbles every time never see a bubble in my job site because I always put mud on my tape now again get a nice trowel fall okay it's not going to fall off about a 13 anchor in both directions your snowplow II you're working against gravity so you're pushing it up and over at the same time okay raise your hand that's lots of month there's a lot more than you need and here's why you want to take your trowel put pressure on the body just like we do with a four-inch point and you want to run that nice and tight because what we're trying to do is fill from here to here or the tapered edges do it on the top as well you don't want to make the wall any thicker yeah medium pressure straight across the middle you're filling the gap okay honey lines just go right out to the corner flatten him in again nice it's all there is the second coat second coat is actually really quick and simple if you can do the tape joint on your job you can do the finish coat second third coat are basically the same it's basically just filling in all the voids this ball here is probably gonna need one more thin coat like I said will add a little bit more water in the mud to loosen it up even thinner so that when we have to sand there's not much work to it just make sure that when you were doing your second coat you find all your joints you hit all your screws all your corners and any imperfections around your electrical boxes where you cut in you make sure you repair those while you're at it don't get lazy and leave it to later correct all right I'm just gonna finish getting this done in a hurry here now we have a new addition to our company we have a new website now and I'm gonna encourage everybody to pop over there the link is in the description we have theirs we've been working feverishly behind the scenes on affiliate links so that you guys can get access to products and tools and we're starting to work with different companies to get better deals for you we're really excited about that now if you're interested to see what the project or we're going on here this is actually my kitchen Renault and if you click the link right here you can join us from the beginning right from the demolition all the way through the rebuild we'll see in the next video

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 1,151,897

Rating: 4.8835945 out of 5

Keywords: homerenovision, renovision, jeff, drywall, drywall taping, drywall finishing, how to finish drywall, how to tape drywall

Id: poOguFrTUy0

Length: 42min 36sec (2556 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 10 2019