- Standing seam metal roofs are great because they look really good, they stand up to extreme weather
and they last a long time. But, just like anything else, that's dependent on the
quality of the installation. So today on the Metal Roofing Channel we are showing you how to install
a standing seam metal roof from start to finish. (upbeat music) What's up guys. Welcome to the Metal Roofing Channel. I'm Thad Barnette. Subscribe if you're new,
we release metal roofing and metal construction content
every Monday and Wednesday. Well, today is the long awaited standing seam metal roof install video on Adam Mazzella's house. I have Matt Lane and his crew from Metal Construction
Solutions and Installations, that are going to be
demonstrating the entire process. Make sure you check
out in the description, we have additional resources and more videos covering
every step of the way. Adam's roof is about 3000
square feet with two valleys, a chimney, and a couple
of pipe penetrations. It's pretty simple but we're going to show
you warrantable details. Sheffield Metals, weathertight warranty details. We're going to be installing an inch and a half SnapLock system. But first of all, we need to
take off the old shingles, see what the decking
looks like underneath. Let's get to it. (upbeat music) The dumpster has been delivered. So the crew starts by getting
their fall protection in order before removing existing
flashings on the current roof. Shingles get torn off, tarpaper ripped up and every nail pulled. There are many reasons to
tear off the old shingles before putting a brand new metal roof on, but the number one reason for Adam's house was the plywood roof decking. It was clearly bowing
and warping in places and was noticeable from the ground even when the shingles were on. This unevenness would
show through even more on a metal roof. Plus if plywood has rotted away, it's best to have a solid substrate to attach your new roof to. When we got down to the
existing plywood on Adam's roof it was clear there's a lot of material that needed to be replaced. - Couple of the things we're looking for, we're looking for water damage, obviously mold, mildew anything like that. We're looking for the plywood to see if it's the de-laminating
any points where it's weak, obviously of really anywhere where if something was
cut in or patched in that we might need to repair as well just walking across the deck sometimes you can tell if it's just over, over its age, over its lifespan. I also saw some large waves
and bows in the roof over here. Adam decided it would be a
better idea to replace these and straighten the roof out
before he put the metal roof on then have those big bows
and rolls in the roof. So we sistered on extra two by sixes. We ran string lines from
one end to the other. We measured down to make sure
we had a nice clean plane before we screwed down our sister boards then we screwed those on. It set our plane better and
then finished nailing them off, before we put our plywood on. Down over here, you can
see our plywood going down. We've staggered our joints on our plywood, depending on the situation you may want to run H
clips in your plywood. Here we're refastening the new deck. So when it's all finished we'll have a nice
straight, clean flat deck for us to put a new roof over. (upbeat music) - [Thad] The next step is
to install underlayment or dry in the roof. The product we're using is a fully adhered underlayment
called Sharkskin Ultra SA. - Here we are, we've
removed our old shingles we've repaired any
plywood that was damaged. We had a section down here. It was de-laminated. So we pulled that piece up, replaced it. We've got the Sharkskin Ultra SA
we just put down on the roof for our weather tightness. We ran our valley first. We made sure all of our
laps, we had a four-inch lap under that's what's required for Sheffield metals weathertight warranty. We want to install our valley first, and make sure our sheets as we put them on were shingled over. That way when water runs off,
it's pretty much common sense. You want to make sure that water shingles and runs down on the next sheet
and then off the building. It's a great product. We've used it for years. I probably wouldn't use anything else. - [Thad] On the chimney,
we are installing a curb. So Matt needs to take some
final measurements to send off to the curb manufacturer. Remember to order your
custom pieces ahead of time. So they arrive when
you're ready to install. - But when it comes to
measuring pitch anymore obviously I just use my phone. There's other ways you can do it. You can set a level on here with a speed square or
a right angle square and you can pull the degrees
off of that pretty easy. But when you're doing the curbs, one of the first things
you need to know is, okay what's my pitch in my area. A lot of houses just cause
I've got a pitch over here, on one side of the house and
it looks the same over here. It doesn't mean they're the same. So always make sure, when
you're doing the curb that you know what the pitch is around that particular curb you're doing. So I'm going to check it over here. I'm going to check it on the other side just to make sure that we're
consistent all the way around. So with this particular curb, we're dealing with a chimney we're dealing with a
pretty uneven surface. This one, I drew a baseline
out along the bottom. We squared the bottoms
off to make sure our sides at our base line were square. So when we order our square curb we know what we're dealing with, and then I ran a level up on here at a couple of different points just so I know the chimney
doesn't come out too far or there's not a stone
that comes out too far but you don't want to bring your curb up and all of a sudden find out something on an irregular
surface like this is making your curb too small. So you want to go around your
whole chimney, double check. We'll make sure we have
a quarter inch of room all the way around. Like I said, we want to
make sure we got enough. We don't want an inch or two inches. Because we're just going to be
a really sloppy way to do it. But we just want to make sure
that our curb fits proper by when we order it. That it's all done right. We don't have to go back
and try to reorder a curb because we didn't take our
time and our due diligence in the beginning to order it properly. - [Thad] The next step of the process is to install the perimeter trim. But first, let's check in with Adam about the material and profile
he picked for his roof. - Hey, everybody, I'm Adam
Mazzella with Sheffield Metals. I just wanted to take a minute, and go over why I went with a 24 gauge inch-and-a-half SnapLock, 450 SnapLock, in medium
bronze on my house. As you guys have seen my house
has got a lot of earth tones. I've got some like tan, brownish siding. I've got some natural stone. The way it worked out was
I went with medium bronze. It was something that I've always liked, and it just jives well with my house. From a panel selection standpoint I was looking at mechanical lock, looking at an inch and
three quarter SnapLock and really looking at the 450 SnapLock. 450 SnapLock is what it was. We went with a UL 90 construction design. So we spaced our clips. I believe UL 90 calls for 18 inches. We actually spaced them at 16 inches. So we actually went a little
bit tighter than UL 90. We preach this all the time. So got to practice what you preach. That is putting striations
or some sort of structure into the panel. I went with a clip relief which is adjacent to the
male and female ribs. That's just going to help
conceal fastener heads as well as clips, depending on which side
you're on of the panel, you're gonna have less dimpling. Then the striations
that's going to help with oil canning and things like that. Knowing that we did everything we can to shore up the deck structurally, even it out as best as
we could structurally. They really did a phenomenal job. I think the big thing was
we still want to guard against oil canning. It still looks beautiful. So really looking forward
to the finished product. And I'm really happy with the job these guys have done so far. - Okay, so we've finished our dry in on Adam's building here. Now we're starting to run
our perimeter flashing. This flashing is pretty simple,
but it's really important. Sheffield Metals has a
six inch screw pattern and the reason it's so important, this is the edge of your building. This is where your wind uplift
is mainly going to occur. And if you skimp on this fastening, if you're running a lot of
screws that are stripping out you need to make sure that's correct. Because this is what here is
what is going to hold down your roof in the long run
when you get a good storm. This type of flashing is a cleat. The panel's going to go on it's going to get wrapped right
around this flashing here, and it's going to hook
all the way up and down. Then the same thing,
we've got a piece here started on the eave. Every panel is going to
get cleated and hooked onto that eave. The top of the panel gets hard
fastened so that when we have expansion and contraction
here free to move. This flashing in here, we're running up now running up the rake. We're going to tie in up
here to this other rake with a nice clean transition. So one side of the building
comes into the other the panels fastened up tight there. The ridge cap will come over
and that'll be weathertight. We're having some issues up
on this part of the the ridge. For some reason, a little bit
of the lumber in the fascia isn't grabbing as it should, so we've put a few extra screws in here. Part of Sheffield Metals warranty details is a starter strip of ice
and water shield covering all the fasteners on the eaves, and on the rakes like this. Just to make sure that
these things are sealed in, just in case there's any holes. we'll go through and we'll
caulk and seal everything that we've got that's not good, but you do
have areas that we've missed, we've made sure we've gotten the screws in that we need for our uplift, but we want to make sure
those are weathered in. So we're going to run a
strip ice and water shield up and over all of this. Before that panel gets
covered and cleated in. - [Thad] At the same time
perimeter flashing goes on Matt installs the valley metal. So the roof is ready to
start accepting panels. - Before we started this
valley, we ran a chalk line up the middle to make sure
everything's running straight. You run up to the peak. We ran one up the other valley. We also coordinated that
with our ridge to make sure everything's tidy and clean at the top. (soft upbeat music) When we put the ice and water shield down we do a really good job
to sweep the roof off to clean things up. Every now and then you miss something. Here I don't know if it's
a staple or what it is, but we want to make sure we get
this up from underneath here because if we put this down and then you put any weight
on the panel near it, that'll put a dent in the panel. You'll see that walking in
the house every single day for the next 30, 40 years,
however this roof is on here. So we want to make sure
we take care of anything we find as we're working around. That way, the roof can look
as good as it is meant to look when we're all finished. - [Thad] Once the perimeter
trim and valleys are in place it's time to install our first panel. Panel layout is a huge
part of the process. There's a few different
ways you could do it. In this case, the pipe penetration
on the front of the house was the driving factor of layout. So Matt measured over
to calculate the size of the first panel. - On Adam's roof we've got
a couple of factors here. We've got a soil stack in the front here. We've got a vent stack right there for I believe it's as a
air conditioning unit. Then we've got these sheets
coming across on the top. We want to try to tie it all together but sometimes you have to make choices. So we're measuring from
the end of the building figuring out where the
edge of our sheet is, we've measured the width of our sheet. We figured out how wide that is and how many sheets are
going to fit in here. We want to land this soil stack here in the middle of the panel. So the only thing we have is a boot detail on the front of the house, on the back we're going to have to do a little more complicated of a detail, which Adam wanted to put on the back because there's just more going on and he didn't want to
see it from the house. So we laid the sheets
out, we land on this pipe. Then when we do the pipe in the back we'll have to do the other detail and also so that when we
come across to the ridge the sheets are lined up, so everything's just looks clean and neat. - [Thad] We started installing on the backside of the house first, but because we wanted the
panel ribs of the front and back roof planes to
line up at the ridge, we cut our first panel on
the back to be the same size as the first panel on the front. Matt marked the panel
and cut it lengthwise adding one inch to the width,
to account for the hem. - We're going to have a
one inch hook at the bottom and have a one inch hook on the gable end, we'll fold it over, fold it
over, we can hook our panel. Half the time the largest part of the job is just getting the first panel on. So once we get the first panel
on and we get sheets rolling. We'll be able to move right along. (soft upbeat music) - [Thad] When it comes
time to install the clips on your standing seam panel,
check with your manufacturer to get their required clip spacing. Our manufacturer's technical director happened to be on the
job site shooting videos. So we could just ask him, The clips are going down
every 16 inches on center for this project. So the crew marks each clip location and snaps a chalk line across
the roof for future reference. (upbeat music) The panels are fabricated
with a standard one inch hem at the eave and a one
inch bend at the top. We kept sheeting across
the back plane of the roof. Matt cut a penetration for
the pipe when we came to it and we'll finish that
flashing later down the line. - So as you're paneling, the
Z closure goes here at the top where you snap your ridge detail on. You're going to want that as even and as straight as possible
coming across the roof. So one tip in order to be able to do that. Here we have chalk lines
spaced evenly between the ridge here on both sides, across
the entire length of the roof. Then over here where the
panels are going down as each panel goes down,
it gets marked right here so that we know where
that chalk line falls and that way the Z closures will go down nice and even and straight across the entire length of the panel run. So for Adam's house here, once
all of these panels go down the Z closures, will go
down on this entire side. But when we move over
to this side of the roof and start paneling down here we're going to go one Z closure at a time per panel as we come across. That way it's going to minimize foot traffic across the panels, and we won't have the potential
for additional damage, people walking on the panels here. - Okay, so what we're doing here is we measured the end of the roof to the bottom of the panel. Now we've taken a number top of the roof to the end of the panel. Not all buildings are square if your sheet and your sheets try to keep everything square too. But what we have at the
bottom of the panels 271 3/8, the top of the panels 270 3/4. The top of the panel in
this case is not bad. It's about 5/8s closer. So we're going to fan these panels just a little bit on the bottom, over about 15 sheets. So when we get to the end of the building everything lines up nice and square. You don't want to get to
the end of the building have two or three panels left
and all of a sudden find out, you're an inch and a half,
two inches out of square. That'll really show up
in the finished product. So we want to take the
time ahead to make sure. If it's a bigger, longer roof, sometimes you take two or
three points and measure it, but make sure that as we get
to the end of this building, we're going to come
into it nice and square and have a clean panel at the end. So we're putting our Z closures in. We already snapped our lines earlier, and we marked our panels. So we know where to put them. This is just a cap to seal
off the top of the panel. Then it gives something for
our ridge cap to cleat onto. Later on we'll hook the ridge cap on these and we'll fasten this off. So that way it's got a
consistent hook all the way down. It makes for a really strong ridge. These closures we made in the shop earlier we already measured the panel. We cut them to length, to fit inside. We went ahead and actually
pre drilled them all. It just makes it easier
to put the screws in. The holes are already marked
you can see down in here, these are put in. Rolled the strip of butyl tape on here. It's a non curing, tape sealant. It works great for this application. So we're just going to
line it up with our marks from our chalk line. Set it in trying not to
scratch the panel or anything. Any time we can not nick the panel obviously we're just going to end up with a better quality product in the end. We fabricated these Z's to
the height of the sheet. By the time we had the thickness of our butyl and everything, we end up just above the high, just enough room for our clips. We're gonna caulk these highs
in, to keep the water out. Going up the sides and in the
back here on the four corners. That is it for that sheet. - [Thad] Now we can
move to the front side. The first panel on the front
uses the same measurements as the first panel on the back. So Matt cut it down to size and started bending over the
gable hem with his Wuko bender. - Pretty straight forward, but with a tool like
this that rides the edge, the cleaner and the straighter your cut, the easier it's going to be to form, and the better your rake is
going to look when you're done. For this sheet I want to
grip that bottom clip. So as we run clips up the rest of the way, we're not pushing the sheet out that way, they're all forced to be
held in a straight line, consistent with the panel. - [Thad] We panel across
the front of the house adding our Z closures as
we go and cutting a hole for the pipe penetration. On Adam's house two valleys
meet at the top of the ridge. So Matt joins these areas before
we catch up to the valley. - We fit our valley, we've cut it back in. We actually have this tabbed underneath. Then we have it tabbed over
for watershed, same thing here. This is tab underneath
we'll caulk in here. Fill that in behind, set
it back in, seal in here and set this back over. That would be your complete
top of your valley. We'll run our sheets up,
tie them in with our cleats, run our sheets in here, and
then we'll carry our ridge cap across this, underneath the sheets, just to protect this point because this is one of your
riskier points on your roof and you really want to protect it. Just doing some
maintenance on the valley, keep it clean, don't step in it. Don't sweep metal shavings down it. - [Thad] Now that we've reached the valley with the panels on the front it's time to start using
some basic geometry to make cuts and hems. - Real quick I want to
give a big shout out to Matt Lane and his crew from Metal Construction
Solutions and Installations. They are true craftsmen who
know what they're doing. They do big commercial jobs including weathertight warranties. So we knew they'd be perfect to show the installation process for
standing seam metal roof. If you're in Ohio and
need a commercial crew need a commercial standing
seam metal roof installer true craftsmen Metal Construction Solutions
and Installations link is in the description down below. All right, let's go check out that valley. - So we've sheeted our
roof up to our valley. It's real important when
we come into our valley that we protect it. So we've actually just cut a
piece of ice and water shield with a backing still on it. I brought it up under our cleat. So when we hook our panel, slide it up in, we're not scratching our valley
on this particular panel. We only have about an inch and a half that rides up into the valley and then the next panel will be full. So we did the bottom of
the sheet the same way. Then we got the angle on our valley and we folded that up
under a little bit tighter, because this cleat is
on top of the valley. So we've actually got to go
around the bottom of the sheet and we've got to go around the cleat. So it's a little tighter
and let's see if it fits. Okay, come on up. Okay. Well, we're starting
to get clips on this sheet. We're going to measure over these panels are running approximately 15 3/4 . We'll butt the panel 15 3/4
ties into our cleat right here. Just a moment ago we took
a square we ran it out, came up with our mark. This panel over the span of the panel. It's going to change a 16 5/8s. So we're going to go
over and prep our panel. We're going to have an
angle that takes us 16 5/8 up across the width of the panel. - Well, now that we've
got this sheet in here Tyler's getting a clips
in the top locked down so it can't move. We can pull our protection out we'll get the clips in and
we'll just do the same thing. Taking our measurements
right up the valley. - Well, we finished the backside
of the roof with panels. But as you can see today, the
weather did not cooperate. Huge storm rolled through Cleveland. So instead we are in the fab shop and we're going to be braking some ridge and Z bar closures to
finish up the trim package. - [Thad] It's a new day on the
job site, the rain moved on and we can continue onto
the chimney flashing. - For Sheffield Metals,
weathertight warranty for curbs, chimneys, They require a pre-manufactured
welded curb base to be installed. We've set the base in place. We've got it sitting around this chimney. We've got our lines
marked to cut a notching called a reglet.. So we're going to cut this notch in here to install our flashing into. They've got a video on it. So if you want more information on that, click up here or in the
description, let's get at it. We got all our panels
on beneath our chimney. We're marking out for our highs and we're going to go lay out our curb. So we've got our panel for the left side of our chimney complete. We cleated the bottom,
cleated the side up here and this little leg here and
now we're ready to go install. We have here is our reglet piece that's going to go into our chimney. We've got our slot cut. This we can slide into there. When it comes done, we'll
open this up a little bit. That way we drive that in, or
it actually locks itself in, then this'll get a caulk bead along it to seal the top of that
chimney off above the flashing. - Something to note when caulking, you wanna make sure your
edges are all tight. Things are filled in. You don't want to have gaps
in here, nice clean surfaces. You want that edge to
have a tooled in finish and not be lifted. Right here. Being at the top of this
valley is an ideal place to check our gable end to make
sure we're coming in square. This panel's short, we can
get a lot out of it real easy. If we wait until we're
two or three panels ahead since we've come all
the way across this roof we're really not sure
how we're going to line up with this gable. So we can make our best adjustment in these next couple of
panels before they get longer. So we're going to have to
bring this bottom ahead. Just about an 1/8 inch,
1/4 inch make us line up over at the other end. - [Thad] As we squared off and
installed the last few sheets on the front side of the house, we also install the panels on
the backside of the garage. That leads us to the final roof plane, the front side of the garage. - On this last valley, we're starting up at
the peak of the valley. We're working our way to the gable end. It's going to be real important how we start these sheets off. We don't want to be a 1/4 inch
off, 1/8 inch off up here. Because when we get down to this point, it'll be 1/2 inch, inch off. By the time we get down into the roof, we're going to have a real hard time. So we ran a square line at
the end of the building. We've taped across and
now we're just setting our first four or five sheets to make sure that as we start down our path here to the end of the building we're gonna come in a
clear, clean and straight. - [Thad] Once their first
few sheets are squared off. We'll continue installing panels as normal but let's go check out
the pipe penetrations and then we'll come back
and finish this roof plane. - So we're starting to do
our soil stacks on this roof. There's two soil stacks here. We've got one just over
the back of the ridge. We're real close to the ridge. So we're just going to Z trap this in and go up under our flashing. Our other soil stack right over here is in the center of the panel. We'll be able to drop that
roof boot right on the roof. We'll show you that in a little bit. Yeah, here we're going to closure this in, and we're all caulk taped underneath here. Just like we're doing with
our top closures or tab. We'll finish pinning this in. Then we're going to caulk this in. Now we'll set a plate over here and we'll be able to put
our boot on top of here. Like I said, we've got
a different detail here. The only reason that we
can do this like this is because we are so close to the ridge we can duck under it. Once we get, you know, 20
feet down, the roof expansion begins to play a role. So a detail like we have
over here with that boot our roof decks gonna have to
be cut out a little wider. That way when we screw through our panel, that panel still has the ability to move. We're not trapping that expansion into the roof deck right there. We've also got another
detail that you can refer to Sheffield Metals warranty pages on, where we trap the high and it's actually more like doing a curb that has panels coming into the top and separate panels leaving the bottom. So this can get pinned solid here and the panels up above
when they get longer have the ability to expand and contract. (upbeat music) - [Thad] With the pipe
boot details taken care of. We can go back to the
front side of the garage finish up those panels
and install the closures. - Just a quick note. This fastening is what
your panel hangs on. So you're going to want to make sure that these screws are good and secure, that you're following the
suggested screw pattern that the panel expands and contracts and is pinned off at this point here. So make sure that this is done well. Obviously, as you start getting toward
the end of the building space becomes a real commodity. So you really want to be careful. You start getting down
to two or three panels be aware of your edge, be aware of your surroundings. Watch how you're walking on your panels. Because you're going to
have to at some point start moving more on your panels. So at this point it's be careful. Make sure you're tied off properly. Make sure you can't swing off the end and hit the ground. Down to our last sheet of the job. I guess it's the one we've
been looking for the whole time should've started with this one first! Like we mentioned earlier,
you just wanna be real gentle with your hammer, rubber mallet so we don't damage the sheet. Too big of a hit, too much of a bend. You won't be able to get rid of it when you go to crimp it over. Once we get this sheet on probably wrapping it up for the day. But, we'll come back next week and start working on our
ridges and our finish details. - [Thad] We finished sheeting and we finished all the
details except for the ridge. So the vented ridge is the next
and last thing on our list. At each gable and at the top of the valley there's a short piece of regular ridge cap that goes on, and then the vented ridge
is set in place from there. - Just want to take a second here. We've put together a mock up
here on how we're going to install this for you. We've got our closures in
the tops of our sheets. Our closures have been sealed off. We still need to do this. We've got our drip stop on. And this is our vented Cor-a-Vent system. This allows air to travel
up through and around. This is a drip stop that way
just in case any water blows up. We've got a small
second line of defense a little light angle up
to keep it from blowing up into your ridge assembly. Put this together. This will end up here with
a screw that runs down through the cap, through the Cor-a-Vent and down through the Z once again, going to the outside of
the envelope of the roof. So we don't have any fasteners
running through the system and into the building. This is kind of how we're going to go. We'll run our laps, we'll
seal and caulk everything. We'll set these in
sealant, hold them down. But once we're pulled
in together and tight, this will be your only access
for air to enter and leave. This particular Cor-a-Vent
has a fiber mat on the end mainly for real small bugs, but mainly for blowing snow and stuff. That way it just kind of
stopped snowflakes and stuff from blowing up into
the ridge cap assembly. (upbeat music) Well as we get down to
the last couple screws here on Adam's roof. I wanna thank everybody at
the Metal Roofing Channel including Adam and Thad and all the other people involved for the opportunity to work
with them on this project. Thank my guys who were
willing to do this with me. As with any construction project there's two key parts to it. You've got the materials you use and you've got your installation. Quick notes just working with the guys over at Sheffield metals
for several years now. I don't know too many other people who care about their product
care about their warranties and care about your roof any
more than these fellows do. So if you align yourself
up with a good installer and you're using the right products, you shouldn't have
anything to worry about, just have a roof that you're gonna enjoy for years to come without a worry. - [Thad] And that brings
us to the finished product. Adam's project went from
an aging shingle roof to a beautiful new, long lasting
standing seam metal roof. Thank you to Matt Lane and his crew from Metal Construction
Solutions and Installations. A link to his website
is in the description as well as links to a host of other videos that dive even further into
each topic we demonstrated here. Make sure you subscribe to
the Metal Roofing Channel for more content, comment
down below with any questions. As always I'm Thad Barnette,
and I'll catch you next time.
