How To Install DIY Metal Roofing (House or Barn)

yes we got the boss garage I have a pencil in my ear because we're putting a roof on a garage so it's been a crazy summer it's been extremely busy I'm trying to keep my head together and it's just time right now to get out of the shop enjoy Canada's wonderful nature we've got beautiful backdrop of corn windmills it's about 510 degrees Celsius birds are chirpin it is the perfect time to get out and put a steel roof on this shingle garage it's a nice nice garage nice dormers and Gables which makes it a pain for the steel but I don't really like putting steel barn steel on houses and that but because the dormers in that it actually won't look that bad so we're gonna start by trimming the sides taking the little overhang off it's got about a half inch overhang that looks crappy with the trim afterwards and along the bottom and then we'll start strapping so here we go so you can take an old saw blade like really old and set the depth and trim a little bit along the edge which I'll have which we had to do on the other side this side the shingles break off nice and easy you just want to get rid of this little overhang here so that your new trim fits nice and neat good time to clean your drafts and we don't remove the shingles just because it doesn't hurt to keep him on there we strap right over top and then put the steel on it it really reduces the noise of the rain hitting the Shing the steel if there was nothing it gets really loud when it rains not that that matters because it's a garage but if you were doing a house 100 Senate leave the shingles on if you had a torrential rain with the steel because it's a steep steep 12 12 pitch the rain wants to come down quickly in between the ribs on the steel and come right back up on the flashing there's nothing wrong with leaving this flashing on there if you had a small leak it would just run down the shingles and come down anyway we're not gonna have that leak because we're gonna do it right but I'm saying yes it's like having a spare engine in the trunk so when you blow up the engine in the front you just push a button and use the one on the back and you still finish your race never mind we're showing here we go all right we got the edges all strip ready to start throwing some wood down you got two and 3/8 inch nails because we're just going through one by four having fired up this old mile walking about 10 years see how it does and when we lay the wood down it's important to remember that you always get the craft wood that is on the edge of the tree so when you're nailing the strapping down do not have the curve side up because then it becomes a nice little slide make sure you got a nice sharp edge cuz you will be walking on it don't be shy with the nails come because you are walking on it you don't steel to come off afterwards and remember when you're using a ladder on concrete it's probably best to support it by something so that the legs don't start walking off and then you go down because that's a that's a ways down so throw a harness on so you're asking yourself alright which tools are the best I gotta have the best of the best well we've got Hitachi nails in a Milwaukee air nailer cut by a Makita skill soft and measured with a Dewalt tape measure but you're only as smart nor as good as the operator and I'm pretty dumb so it's attached with a tape boss so you don't forget those measurements uh-huh let's start inhaling here we go so I always start with the outside one and just spot it up you don't even need this piece per se because the trim will cover it but what I find is it really blocks the wind from ever getting underneath it keeps rodents out and it's only one piece of one by four stop being so cheap having your first piece of strapping is straight along with the bottom of the roof is super important you can take a measurement from the top down but really this is impossible to work on until you start building the strapping so you just want to make sure this is straight because you're gonna take three pieces of one by four and cut them so that the tops are all the same and then use them as spacing blocks so you're gonna cut them if we want two foot spacing I'm going to measure the width of the wood and then subtract that from two feet and then lay three pieces down and put your wood on top of that now you want three because the wood will have a crown in it so nail one end of it then go halfway in between put your other block nail that and then raise or lower the third piece to accommodate for the bow and the wood once you have five or six pieces of strapping then you might want to throw tape on it and measure back down make sure that you're still staying two foot centers at the end of the day you have four inches to work with and if you can't line up four inches from one end to the next you got issues so now you might want to stop and hire somebody but for us we'll just lay a piece of strapping down bang away and till we get to a dormer where we will have to pull the trim off the bottom and all the way along the sides and put the steel on the flashing underneath it will butt up to the top of the eaves they are nailed to the roof we'll put a piece of flashing underneath there we'll get there eventually and I'm putting new valley on that on top so here we go it's important that your nails are set below the surface of the woods if you go on an angle and a tip is sticking out the steel will heat up and and shrink in the sunlight and eventually it'll rust the hole through so take your time keep your hammer handy if you're low on air you pinch your line you're gonna want to nail that down and make sure that that is nice and tight now I don't have to be too too worried about the valley the valley is a good foot wide I believe so and we don't want to put nails in the middle anyway so you can go right to the end you can cut it back whatever you like it doesn't really matter all that much you can run a strip along the senator we might do that but we'll worry about that in a little bit so we've got everything strapped nicely all the way up into the top I didn't continue there because I want a double check that we match up a hundred percent on the other side so also that row strapping ends up eight inches down from the top which is perfect for our bridge cap but I got to pull the capping off that nail that one so let's cut the size we just leave it there one nail in there I'll put that up when we have the capping don't have the steel yet so I don't want to pull that off because I don't want it to leak so we'll move our little getup here over to the other side you might be able to go forward fast but if you can go slow backwards with a hay wagon first inches away then how he's just being fussy he could he's fine he can do it okay so we're inside because it's cold outside and I couldn't convince Aaron to join me up on the roof because it's a little too steep so we're gonna finish off by basically going over this doghouse well it doesn't need it but we're gonna put the leftover cover sheets on this and make it nice too new and then explain to you and good detail how to do the tin roofing so here we go so we've trimmed the overhang off of our shingles we're also gonna have to remove our ridge cap because most of the steel is gonna have a vented Ridge either individual sections that are vented or the entire ridge is vented we'll get into that afterwards but we got to pull these now I've never been a fan of two layers of shingles I don't recommend that ever and if you're gonna put ten overtop of shingles it's okay to do one layer you can't do two because then the trim doesn't match up anywhere anymore unless you become very specific with the people that bend the trim for you also your nails are going through two layers of shingles not ideal so hopefully it's just one layer of shingles we can send the guy to the mean but we can't come up with a roof that lasts longer than 15 years that's okay so if you have rafters and your ceiling goes right up to your rafters there's no real reason to ventilate the roof if you have a ceiling and trusses this spot in here gets really hot that's why you need to vent the roof I told you to cut two inches off of the top I'm not gonna do that on this one only because this is all vented on the outside and this is for demonstration purposes only but that's why you vent your roof so I'm going all out Dutch and using leftover skids for strapping because I'm Dutch I used my skill saw blades to trim the shingles on the other house so I'm left with my trusty husky [Applause] Hey look at that now that work okay so you might notice that this fold is backwards that's because this is actually drip edge this way for a wall steel but it's the same design when you go to a drip edge I'll show you the two different kinds but we'll just nail this thing so years ago we just used the drip edge all the way around but you could see the cut edge you want to have your steel hanging out over past the drip edge the new stuff that we used on the barn here I don't know have been out of the barn scene a little bit but this is what we use now which is much nicer because it takes the the steel brings it to the edge and then basically just covers it all up so you don't even have to be 100% perfect get it close to within a quarter inch and then put this nicely overtop I hate looking into gaps so this is about an inch on mine so we make an inch cut fold this down and then make a straight cut down so birds don't make nests in there and be easy whatever you can take this corner fold it over and behind as well but that's what we're aiming for I don't have enough of this leftover so we're gonna have to go with the drip edge but you get the idea so if you're not great at doing the the peaks they sell corners for it like a little finishing top piece you got to know your peak whether it's 4 12 12 12 10 12 if you want to make your own basically you want to tuck one side in behind the other take your square and you know it's a say it's a 12 12 pitch you can line up 12 on your squares or 12 and then 12 if it's four you put four on one side and twelve on the other for this we'll do three and three which is a 12 12 there's your you make a line like that you can cut that that will be your use piece that's showing and then cut not quite the same amount out on the other side need it to the point and you can tuck it in behind then then on the peak you have a nice a nice line going straight up and just cut that little overhang piece off and you have a nice finished peak like that don't leave a space in behind if you leave a space the heating and the cooling of the steel will expand and contract it and then you see light even though it's up on the peak still wanted to finish off and look nice and then the same applies for when you're doing a cut like this I'm just running out of space so this is a profile of your steel your first sheet is extremely critical to get a square on the side of the building and if it's a long sheet it helps to have two guys who who are doing the same thing problem is I put the screws on the ridge we do that for the snow as the snow sits on it and melt there's the least amount of chance of water to get in behind the screw if it's on the ridge if it's down below all-out snow and ice is sitting on there and water is getting in now when you're putting screws in here you have the chance of pulling it down too tight and think of it as a piece of paper if you put it in too tight you can you can basically do this with the steel and what's gonna happen is you're gonna walk yourself right off of the roof or right onto the roof and you're not gonna stay square anymore so when we did we especially when we did our barns with long run say 140 foot barn every sheet we measure on an inch overhang on the bottom and then we measure an inch overhang on the top and we can tell the guy at the top or the bottom either stretch or shrink your steel you can counteract it and try to predict where your steel is starting to go if you're starting to walk onto the roof your only chance is to fix that our to sawtooth it which looks terrible or you've run out of your overhang so just keep that in mind so on the on our barn there we had our blocks in between to make sure that the strapping was spaced equally around for this one just doghouse so we can measure it at 4 inches 21 and a half and the top one doesn't matter because we're gonna put our ridge cap on and then go into it we pre-drill the steel with a 5/32 drill bit what that does is make the hole slightly bigger than what the screw is and allows for the expansion and contraction of the steel and the hot and the cold climate so here in Canada we've got plus 30 degrees Celsius to minus 28 30 so a 60 degree temperature change those are a lot to the steel you can actually hear it when the Sun hits it from behind the cloud you can hear crackling and expanding and contracting again so got you got to allow the steel to be able to do that but making the holes bigger than what what the actual screw is when I cut I don't close my snips all the way I find every time you close the snips all the way it leaves a little bit of a mark when you're drilling I support the steel on the bottom what happens if you don't if it's on a skid that's hanging out past the bottom sheet will push away like this it'll grab your drill bit and it'll snap it and there's only so many 5/32 drill bits around so line up all your steel so it's nice and flush I've got a giant stack you can put a block of wood up against it and top it with a sledge hammer nice and even and definitely make sure that there's no shorter sheets kind of tucked in behind at the bottom in the pile if there is you got to move the pile depends on whether you've got different size sheets or not don't take for granted that the longer sheets are at the bottom of the pile when you drill those you might drill some holes and some sheets that you don't want another spot now when you do drill you get these little shards and those are burning hot and the spinning of the drill bit actually makes them magnetic roof steel that's fine you don't need to clean it off but wall steel you're gonna have to brush every single sheet off before you hang it these will start to rust over time and they're kind of burned into the paint and it'll look like a whole bunch of brown spots around each hole not very desirable so even though it speeds up the efficiency like crazy if you grab the sheet have the rag start from one end and wipe all of it down to the other side never had those little pieces scratch the paint but definitely had the rust show up now this steel you can see that both ends are exactly the same so it doesn't matter which one you're lapping edges some will only have this extra little fold on one side and that is the side that goes over top of the other rib I don't drill the last hole that the next sheet goes over top because I don't find they line up 100% and if the hole is closed it'll grab the steel and move it in a direction you don't want so that hole unfortunately doesn't have the 5/32 hole in it it is what it is the wall steel you want to go with more of aesthetics so if you're coming in on the driveway you want to start at the back and work your way to the front because the laps you won't see the laps on the roof it takes a lot of abuse and those are storms and you want to make sure that the water doesn't crawl underneath when that happens so whatever your prevailing wind comes from work towards it this is doghouse it might move a hundred different spots so we're gonna start the first sheet if your house isn't entirely square or because they didn't measure the the overhang quite right you want to do an aesthetic overhang of the steel if you don't have the trim that hides it and then fix your overhang as you go by stretching and shrinking if we wanted to stretch I would take this outside rib I would angle it angle the screw like crazy grab it and see what's happening we'll put a line here on that on the trim watch watch what happens see how I'm able to pull that I would put a screw in the rest of the ribs and I would come back and I would fix this Bob now to shrink it I would put my screw straight in I would lift up just a little bit then put my put my sheet and see how much I've left there now if you do that repeatedly you could walk your sheet off in a matter of three four sheets you're already running into issues we're gonna measure our overhang right here is about five-eighths okay with that and right there is five it I'm happy with that now I've dented this rib because I've pulled too hard stretching or shrinking it that's a sacrifice I have to make on one or two ribs to make up for the overhang when you're putting your actual screws in you want to bottom out and just start to see the rubber start to react with the steel and then stop one of the biggest mistakes if people just go way too deep start kinking the steel that is absolutely not what you want when we lay our next sheet on top push down on the rib make sure it's flush and do the bottom first so that we line up the sheet itself and then go right to the very top and do the top one if you do any of these first your seams won't line up very well and it'll start to look like that so don't do if you are cutting the sheets make sure that the factory edge is on the bottom you can hide your ratty cut pieces underneath the ridge cat and have fun do it nice and efficiently communicate with the other guy at the other end of the the steel when you're doing a long barn and you're starting at the back you're ending up on the front you can it's a small chance that you end up actually on the ridge when you're about four or five seats back you can measure that and you can actually shrink the whole sheet to make it so you don't end up on the ridge if you do end up on the ridge hopefully you have the trim that covers it over and you can go back we can't really make up for it because of a doghouse is so small but with a with a long barn or a house you have that option to kind of stretch or shrink if you make it to that very end otherwise you're gonna end up being able to see your screws on the ridge pointing in we also have a little jog here with a little piece that sticks out just keep that in mind when you're doing my house yourself because we drilled the whole pile all at once we start at the front on the one side then work our way around and end up on the other side so to keep this edge kind of nice because we've got that overhang on the on the top day we're gonna shrink this bottom a little bit [Music] [Applause] we're gonna stretch the top if this stretching method doesn't work for you you can put the next sheet kind of just off a little bit and then take the sheet and try to pull it on to the next rib that's another way to kind of stretch it you can do that better with shorter sheets then you can with the longer one so we can do as pull the sheet a little bit see you coming up on the rib - too greedy we can put one in the flat underneath here and it'll be hidden by the ridge cap pull that tight we still have a decent overlap and we've managed to stretch it just enough to stay on door overhead okay we have our steel here separated them to see what we actually have this is our cathing so that's all the way last we don't have to unwrap that we've got two packages of this trim which is the side trim this will be the drip edge more or less so that will go along the bottom of the roof this is our flashing down the down the side so that will go on the side of our dormer going up on the angle and this is our flashing that has the profile of the roof cut into it and that will go along the bottom of the dormer so what we need to do is take that steel off and raise that up and then put that flashing over top of our roof steel and then put that steel back on again kind of tricky but I don't think we'll get that far today the prevailing wind is actually from this side here and we have a little bit of a wind break with these trees but I can't see an issue how we're basically because it's tricky walking on the steel and stuff because of the 12 12 pitch basically gonna have to start from the outside and work our way in I would have liked to start from the inside and work our way out but that doesn't isn't gonna work in our situation so we're not gonna do it so start banging off the trim start separating some steel and off to the races all right so we're gonna start by putting our drip edge on and we're just gonna do that as we go we've got scaffolding set up on a nice little hay wagon here we're gonna slide the steel up if it was a 4-12 pitch or something we might get a crane diva boom it up or get like a scissor lift and lift it up on the edge but because of the steep angle it's very awkward to carry it across the steel so we're just gonna move the wagon as we go slide it up we've got all our holes pre-drilled this is the way the steel goes up the building that way and we drill all the holes all at once with a 5/32 drill bit it's important to keep in mind which way the steel laughs and you can look at that at the edge this this curl goes down in it and it sits over top of the next rib it has it on both sides so it doesn't matter which way this steel goes most of the prevailing wind comes from from this side over here and we're doing it for looks that's why we're starting at the back and working our way to the front it's very important to stretch and shrink the tops in the bottom of the steel to keep the overhang a good inch over the drip edge and we'll keep that in mind there every single sheet needs to be measured and cut perfectly straight for that nice straight edge other than that we're good to go these are only 30 inches wide which is really handy they do make 36 inches in different profiles we a 30-inch because we have to screw each panel as we go and thirty inches is reaching as a lot better than 36 it gets kind of awkward after but so here we go I've been making very many videos and apologize for that reason is totally me doing this roof for my dad and I'm off I'm on the roof and it's kind of awkward up there it's deep 12 12 pitch and the cameras are taking a beating in the pouch and in my pocket it's actually two weeks after we started cuz we had seen in the middle and then it rained non-stop for another week so basically I just want to get this done if no wind right now so right now I have to cut the steel that that goes around that dormer and I'm a little bit biased but honestly this is the best invention ever it only cut the steel on the roof because I scratch other steel and I scratch myself so now I couldn't write all that down I'm just talk that thing has saved me so many trips up and down I love it go get one huh lights come on so that's the end of the day I got one more piece of the ridge cap to put on on that dormer and of course I'm one sheet short one sheet short say that 10 times but pretty happy with how that all turned out I'll probably have to put that one on in the snow which will get really exciting but I'm not gonna put that on camera yeah I'm sore and I'm tired and I got a go before it gets completely dark but seedings shop so this is your vented foam it follows the profile on it has a little tape on it I the peel off and then it just sticks to it I like going down about 6 inches from the peak that allows the screws to go just a hair underneath a fold and the ridge cap and keeps the screws nice and straight our last row of strapping is roughly a boat here keep the birds out keeps the bees out but also allows the air to come out from that 2-inch cut that you've done in the peak and go through the the minute so this is a ridge cap goes nicely on top as you can see the the foam closure is just underneath this this fold I like putting the screws in the ribs I don't drill the holes I don't pre-drill them but I stick the holes through the rib still and I try to hit it through that foam closure if you go on the outside you start folding the the trim around the foam closure if you go on top you have a chance that the foam closure starts sliding out over a few years and and you always want to leave about an inch longer than the steel is yet when it's a 1212 pitch like what we had there's no way to get around it but to sit on the ridge cap when you're working on it and when you do that you actually flatten it out so when you before you sit on it I like to put it in I line it up with the sheet that's in the before it overlap it to the next rib so you can go through two sheets of rib through the ridge and then into your strapping and you might have to go back and forth a couple times when you're sitting on it and and you screw it at the same time you tend to do this with the ridge and you'll start getting walking on it now nobody's ever gonna see that because it's up on the top but the straighter you can get it the better it is if you've got a 4 12 pitch and you can watch walk on the steel even 6 12 that's fine when you start getting into 8 10 12 it gets a little slippery and you have to put each sheet down as you go if we get the chance next roof if it's a 4 12 we'll get into valleys how to seal those up and all the other little bits definitely check out our barn build start to finish from pouring the foundation to putting the garage door in we have a complete how-to on how to build the barn check out Cake Boss the website take boss calm you can pick one up right now there's free shipping for the next a little bit and you can use your order number to enter to win our Lincoln welder that we're giving away as well stay filthy remember if you're not filthy you're not rich here we go put your hand directly on things like that that hurts just keep your eyes [Music]

Channel: DEBOSS GARAGE

Views: 690,502

Rating: 4.7761078 out of 5

Keywords: metal roof, metal roofing, do it yourself, metal roofing installation, metal roof installation, metal roof over shingles, metal roof flashing, metal roof vs shingles, metal roofing installation over shingles, metal roofing over shingles, metal roofing insulation, metal roofing 101, diy roofing, steel roof, barn roof, how to metal roofing, metal roof install, how to install diy metal roofing, diy metal roofing, diy metal roofing installation, diy metal roofing over shingles

Id: 6X6rcSkJRAs

Length: 30min 1sec (1801 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 25 2018