HOW TO Build a metal stud wall

[Music] welcome today I'm going to demonstrate how we would actually build a metal stock wall metal stud consists of a new track we call it a new track because of the shape is shaped like a letter U we also have a C stud and again because of the shape the C stud actually clicks into the u truck which I'll demonstrate in the short while both are available in various widths and lengths this is a lightweight gauge metal but we also do it in a heavy gauge metal also available in the new track or different depths depending on your project so let's have a look at some of the tools that you're going to need to put a metal petition together pair of tin snips these are used for cutting the metal a short line which will help us do the setting out tape measure to do all our measurements Stanley knife we won't be using this until we actually come to install our plus the bores a cordless drill or a drill this is a specialist drywall screw gun if at home you have a cordless drill you can still put the petition together you'll need a spirit level and finally the most important a pencil first of all we have a wafer head screw this is only 13 millimeters in length and is used for fixing the metal track down to timber floors the reason being is timber floor coverings all start at 18 millimeters whether it be floorboards or chipboard flooring so if there are any hidden cables or water pipes except hidden under that floor we're not going to hit them if we have concrete floors or concrete soffits we can use what is known as in the trade as an ailable plug if you're fixing into timber you will need a high thread screw the rule of thumb is you need a minimum of 25 millimeters into the timber so if your ceiling is already plaster bordered with a twelve and a half millimeter plus the board twenty-five millimeters into the timber thirty seven and a half millimeters total the nearest screw length is 38 millimeters if unfortunately you don't have Tim burr or a concrete saw fit to fix into there are specialist screws available and these will actually fix straight into the plaster board and finally a self-tapping screw this will be used to fix the plaster boards to the metal stud petition again the minimum requirement is ten millimeters into the metal twelve and a half mil board plus ten twenty two and a half a 25 millimeter screw will be required so the first thing that we need to do is Mark the position of our metal stud wall take the measurement and put a pencil mark do the same at the opposite end and now between those two marks we can use our chalk line to mark the position that marks a position for our u track to be fixed to the floor what the length of the u track on the back and using our tin snips we can cut down either side of the u track fold it over and put it across always take care protect your hands metal is sharp wear a pair of safety gloves we now need to fix the track down to the floor it's a timber floor so we'll be using the 13 milk wafer head screws we actually fixed the track down to the floor every 600 millimeters you will notice that the new track has service holes in these are actually 600 millimeters apart and the first one from the end of the u track is 300 millimeters this makes it easier when we fix him if I place a fixing at the end of the fret I then need one in the middle are you track is now securely fixed to the floor we now need to cut a stood to length so we can actually plumb that up against our wall so we take a stood again we would actually measure from floor to ceiling the studs unlike timber and never cook tight we would actually cut them three to a maximum five millimeters shorter than the floor to ceiling height now studs cut to length it doesn't matter which way it actually goes into the track on the floor there's no top or bottom place it into our you track and click into place place against our wall surface and we now need to plumb it you can't get this to happen to timber yes we use magnetic levels we now need to fix our see stud to our wall surface I know behind this plasterboard wall I have timber so I will be using a 38 millimeter high thread screw I will fix into each stud as opposed to every 600 millimeters so that's our C stunt securely fixed to my background remember if yours is brick or breeze block you will need the Nayla ball plugs with our sealing track now caught we can put it into position we can do that by placing over the stood that we have fixed our wall whose doing another stud cut too late place into the top and bottom track plumb or the pencil mark that's for guidance we can now fix our track to the ceiling now I can fix our you track to the ceiling every 600 millimeters the longest stood walls you can mark either end of the petition that way you can snap a short line between the two marks and then use the line as a guide to fix you you track - this is the end of our petition so where the stood actually stops we need to fix it into position we do that by using a 13 millimeter wafer head screw and now the same at the top with all our studs cut I'm roughly placed in position our plaster boards do all the setting out for us so if we're using a 1200 millimeter wide plaster board our studs would go at 600 centers if we're using a 900 wide plaster board our studs would go at 450 millimeter centers the exception being if you are creating a bathroom the studs must go at 400 centers because of the additional weight of tiles none of the intermediate studs are actually fixed in position they are la left to move freely because our plaster boards will do all our setting out for us there is no requirement for noggins as there is a with timber noggins have no structural value they're in there for one reason and one reason only and that is to prevent the Timbers from bowing metal doesn't twist or warp there's no wet rot no dry rot it's also lightweight therefore it's easier to handle it can be stored outside unlike timber there are lots of benefits to using metal stud but the biggest is the speed of installation we're now ready for plus the board in our stood petition we always start with half a plaster board because the boards help us do the setting out of our so what we'll do is we're using the 1200 millimeter wide board so we'll mark 600 we'll do that on either end of our plus the board and between those two marks now we can put a score line and snap our board what we need is a straight edge between the two marks you don't need to place a lot of pressure the knife only needs to score the paper across the board now is scored we'll get somebody to help me to actually turn this Buster board over so I can cut from the other side you'll notice now we've scored the paper on one side it worked quite easily snap need to now cut to length so again using our tape measure to marks and again between the two marks place a straight edge or in this case is spirit level snap cut but now ready to fix our plus the board to our petition so within our board now cut to size we've caught the plaster board in half 600 and we've also cut to the height no plaster wall should ever be in contact with the ground gypsum loves water even on freshly laid concrete it will suck out the moisture from the concrete this is a board lifter this will lift the plasterboard up from the floor and tight up against the ceiling alternatively you could place two small pieces of offcut of plaster board onto the floor and rest your plus the board onto them like so we're now ready for fixing our plus the water the petition using the 25 mil self tapping screw and this a drywall screw gun this is a specialist tool used for fixing plus the balls to the metal stud it has a depth gauge on it which is adjustable so we don't go too deep with the screws on your normal cordless drill that you may have at home you can buy an attachment that fits to the drill that does exactly the same thing your local builders merchants will give you advice on these so we're now ready we're now going to fix our six hundred mil board to our petition we're gonna use the board lifter because it shouldn't be in contact with the ground using a 25 mil self-tapping screw I could screw into that position against the wall I can now slide my stud into place it has a center line which you can position on the edge do the plus the ball again just to hold it in place I can screw fixed we now screw fix every 300 millimetres the guns weren't designed with with this in mind but if you actually put the battery on it's like with the tip of the drill they will be approximately 300 mil apart I have my 600 piece of plaster board on the opposite side of the petition top tip is to mark the center of a 1200 width master board which will highlight where the studies see now the advantage of having our centre line I'm not having to guess where the studies another advantage of the metal stud is I can now position that on to the centre line so the studs are actually moving as we build our petition we can now fix the plasterboard at 300 centres so I started with half the plasterboard and in this case a 600 rip I've now placed a 1200 plus the board on the opposite side it is important that you stagger the joints for both acoustics and fire also it's very similar to brick bonding it improves the strength of the petition the other side to line so we know where our studies go into it the end stood now I can pull into position got my centerline and now screw into place so this is our still petition actually finished metal stud doesn't twist doesn't walk and it's much much quicker to install and it's just as strong as a timber petition but it's finished happy building [Music]

Channel: Siniat UK

Views: 1,670,004

Rating: 4.8393865 out of 5

Keywords: Wall Stud, Building (Site Listing Category), wall, plaster, plasterboard, stud wall, metal stud, timber stud, self build, metal, renovation, Do It Yourself (Hobby)

Id: ABGd6B0v9go

Length: 16min 35sec (995 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 02 2014