HOW TO Cover an uneven wall using Metal Stud

what we're going to do today is actually show you how to cover on the even walls with the SUNYAC dry liner system the tools you will need a pair of tin snips for cutting the metal a tape measure for doing the setting out a short line spirit level the drywall screw gun if you have one available if not any cordless drill will do and not forget in the Old Faithful pencil the components that are required is a J track this is fixed to the floor and to the ceiling with this largest edge facing into the room a wall channel this will actually sit into the J track and finally the brackets we do the brackets in two different sizes this is the standard reach bracket and the extended reach bracket fixings will actually use a wafer head screw for fixing track down to the for providing next timber if it's concrete we would actually use the nail above plug timber ceilings we would actually use a high thread screw remember we need 25 millimeters minimum into the timber alternatively again if we've got a concrete soffit we revert back to the Nayla ball plug for fixing our brackets to our wall channel we would actually use a self drilling pan head screw 12 millimeter in length and finally we will have our twenty five-millimeter self-tapping screw for fixing our plus the balls to our metal system so these are the tools components and fixings you'll need to install the dry liner system happy ability we have a J track which is actually affixed to the floor a minimum of 25 millimeters away from the wall but it will actually extend on the brackets to 60 millimeters we also do an extended reach bracket that will actually go again minimum 25 millimeters up to 130 millimeters J track is actually fixed to the floor and that is fixed at 600 millimeter centers using 30 millimeter wave head screws the reason for that is if it's going into a single flaw or floor covering start at 18 millimeters once we fix the trap to the floor we can then open our tin snips cook our dry liner Channel now we would cut this three to a maximum of five millimeters short place this into the bottom track and plug up on the internal corner onto the ceiling then do exactly the same process in the opposite internal corner snap it short lining onto the ceiling and our track can then be fixed to the ceiling using the senior titrate screws brackets are actually fitted at 8 and 1600 the reason for that is if you look at it it's what we call the impact zone so if you were to lean against the wall push against the wall anything like that that's where you would actually get most of the impact so again we measure 800 millimeters up from the floor and 16 and again you do that in the opposite internal corner we then snap to short lines on the walls what we need now is we would actually mark out we've put a bracket fairly close to the wall and if you're using 900 wide plus the boards you want your centers at 450 at 1,200 wide plus the bores you need 2 centers at 600 once we've marked our centers we would drill a hole and we can either put in string or between a suitable fixing and the brackets are fixed to the wall the brackets themselves come flat packed easier for packaging etc what we do is the raised side and the indent side we place on the right angle core and simply press all of brackets and all our channels have been fixed what we need to do now is fix the bracket to the channel because you can see that the wall would actually flex so what we do is we bend the bracket round we actually use a smaller screw a panhead and we drill from the side and bracket that secures the channel so on the opposite side we do exactly the same and the excess is actually sticking out you simply fold over the way that's now secured our channel to our bracket and removed any of the Flex internal corners what we actually do is we push the bracket onto the face we can then use a wave head screw because these have got a nice large flat head you can plus the board over them with the wafer onto the face and now we've removed the Flex again we now have a perfectly plumb surface ready for plus the boarding which we're now going to demonstrate obviously to fix our plaster boards we're actually going to be using what we call a drywall screw gun this allows us to make sure that the screw goes to the correct depth every single time if I actually twist clockwise you can see that the drill bit actually comes out further anti-clockwise and the drill bit actually retracts it's magnetic so it will hold the screw in place and also the screw gun doesn't actually spin until you actually put the pressure on we're going to be using a 25 millimeter self tapping screw the reason for that is you need 10 millimetres minimum actually into the metal so twelve and a half mil plaster board plus your 10 millimeters into the metal is 22 and a half the nearest screw length would actually be a 25 mil cell no plasterboard should ever be in contact with the ground gypsy loves water so it will actually do soak up any moisture the screw is not going quite deep enough a little adjustment and now it's actually pulling the paper back but without breaking the core of the board we screw fix every 300 millimetres and if you actually put the heel of the gun on and Mark they will actually be 300 millimeters apart so with our poster board in place you see that the lines are very nicely on to the center line of our channel and this will allow for our next board the bottle tight through our first board and we can continue recovering the wall surface and you see then what we've actually got is a nice true surface and a quick and simple method

Channel: Siniat UK

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Keywords: How-to (Website Category), uneven wall, plasterboard, plaster, stud wall, metal stud, dot & dab, timber stud, self build, renovation, Do It Yourself (Hobby)

Id: R9Mr0bCVOF0

Length: 8min 43sec (523 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 02 2014