Affordable DIY Framing, Drywall, & Paint // How To Basement Remodel

hey everybody how's it going my name is Chris and I'm in the middle of a big basement remodel and in this video I'm going to be tearing out the old dingy and dated basement we're going to be putting up a steel frame drywalling putting a nice coat of paint we're going to be using some cool new tools that I haven't used before that makes certain processes really nice and fast and easy we already did this egress window down here there's a great video on that and in the final video of this series I'm going to be showing how to install a really easy to put down carpet and ceiling tile to finish off this space so without further Ado let's get tearing down this old basement [Music] the first thing we do is clean up as much as we can and then move all the furniture to one side of the basement so we can rip up the carpet and you can see what that previous window looks like in the corner and how little light it lets in then we tear out the old drop ceiling and remove the previous walls and these walls were a weird soundproof system that the previous owner put in and I just really didn't like the look and the effect they had on deadening sound plus I wanted to remove that partition wall and really open up the space and before I get too far along I want to give a big thanks to Lowe's for sponsoring this video and being such a great partner to this channel they helped me create videos like this that hopefully will help some of you accomplish some of your home projects now that I have a fresh slate I can start framing I'm going to use steel frames down here for a couple reasons they're really light they're as cheap as wood they're dead straight and pretty easy to work with I start by making a line that is three quarter inch wider than the studs that I'm using that way if there's any bow in my basement Foundation I'll have enough wiggle room to still make my wall nice and straight [Music] foreign whether you're using steel or wood you're going to need either tapcon concrete screws or a ram set to fasten that bottom plate to the concrete floor now with steel I'd have to use a different bit to drill through the steel first and then into the concrete kind of a pain in the butt so I'm going to use a ram set plus these are a lot more fun they take a 22 blank cartridge and shoot aluminum nails into the concrete floor below they're a lot of fun but you need to make sure you have hearing protection on as it's basically a gunshot to properly load a ram set you load the nail into the barrel first then add the blank that way you don't risk the tool firing while you're loading the nail they also make Ram sets that are automatic that you don't have to load one at a time and I'll have a link to this tool as well as all the other tools that I use for this project down in the description [Music] once I have that corner secure I'll lay out the rest of my bottom plate and the cool thing about steel is that it's really easy to splice together foreign [Music] [Music] and here you can see that three quarter of an inch Gap that I left between the frame and the foundation [Music] now to cut steel studs you can do a couple different things you can use a pair of tin snips which I'm going to show you right here and then also a metal chop saw now all my studs on this wall are all the same height so I'm going to go over a little bit later and use the chop saw to make it a lot quicker another thing to keep in mind when cutting metal studs is there are tops and bottoms to these you can see along this metal stud there's two openings for wires on the bottom side and one at the top another easy way to remember is it almost looks like a silhouette of a person the head goes up and you want to measure and cut from the same side each time so I'm going to measure from the bottom to the top on all my pieces we're 94 and a 16th [Music] [Applause] if you have access to a metal chop saw it'll make cutting these a lot quicker and you can do multiples at once I set up a stop block make sure all my pieces are lined up clamp it down you see that's a lot quicker than cutting them all by hand with tin snips okay to lay out the top plate I dropped my stud into the bottom plate I hold a level next to the stud until I'm nice and level foreign or on the joist and that's where I know where my top plate needs to rest so I'll put my chalk line there do the same thing on the other side strike a line and that's where I know where to put my top plate now since I'm screwing in the wood I don't need to use Ram sets I just use self-tapping sheet metal screws and screw that top plate into the bottom of the joists now that I have my first laid out where I want I can screw it into place on the bottom then I'll take my level and make sure it's nice and square and Plumb screw it to the top and then now that this first stud is nice and level I can Mark out with my tape measure 16 on Center along the top and the bottom and go through and run this entire wall I'll be using small half inch self-tapping screws to secure the frame together foreign [Music] [Music] thank you foreign [Music] [Music] thank you once I'm done framing I can add these plastic little grommets that are made specifically for steel studs then I can safely run my wire and place my Outlets so what we did on this wall because we have some obstacles is we're again starting in the corner with our sheet of drywall that's going to be going 16 on Center start here have my next 16 my next 16 and then we have a window casing here the stud for the window casing is going to go flush with the inside of this window case so that I can screw trim board or drywall to that and then you add a top plate to the bottom and top of the window casing so again you can trim out that window and you just continue your 16 on Center all the way across and here's my last 16 on Center before that window casing starts again so I'm going to add another stud when that happens you don't want to skip this stud because you still want everything 16 on Center in case that's where a seam is and that way you can find the studs on the wall then my next one is over here for 16 but I'm dropping my ceiling down so I had to add another stud so if you run into obstacles it's not a problem you just keep your 16 on Center and then you add studs as needed and your top plates and bottom plates to frame those cases out our next step is to put in some insulation and then hang drywall now there's a lot of different opinions out there when it comes to insulation vapor barriers and all that stuff when it comes to basements but for my basement my climate my home location I don't want or need anything more than that single layer of insulation that I put in I would recommend talking to an inspector and asking what code is in your area and what is recommended for your specific home and climate to suit what's best for you and your situation you're editing that down here below grade we're going to use a mold defense drywall and run the sheets horizontally just like with bricks you want to stagger the seams which will make hiding the seams after mudding much easier now you can use a regular drill and driver for screwing in drywall sheets but ideally you'd want to use a drywall gun like what we have here it does a couple of unique things that a regular drill just doesn't do first it has a stationary collar over the bed that only lets the screw get driven in so deep so that you get the perfect depth on every screw the gun also has a clutch system in it so that you can pull the trigger and get the motor spooled up but the screw won't turn until you push the screw into the drywall then it'll engage that clutch this is a really nice feature and why drywall guns work so much better there's a link to those down in the description [Applause] foreign you want to add a thin layer of mud over all the screw holes and because they were all countersunk properly with that drywall gun the mud will make those holes disappear after paint then you lay down a layer of mud along each of the seams and run paper drywall tape over top of the mud then you'll go back over the seam with pressure on a mudding knife to flatten out that paper and remove excess mud then after the first coat of mud dries you add another coat to the seams using a wider 10 to 12 inch knife and you'll create a big wide feathered area of mud that ends up making those seams invisible After Paint as well it's best to do at least two of these widening skim coats after the last coat dries you want to go over everything with a sanding sponge to smooth it out and knock down any high spots if you find any areas that you missed just go over it one more time with some more mud and then sand it down before you paint now on to painting this is typically something I dread but I was really excited to do on this project because I just picked up this paint sprayer at Lowe's I've always hated cutting in and rolling paint I've always thought these sprayers were really complicated to use with a lot of room for air and I was a little too intimidated to try one but after talking to my buddy he convinced me that they're actually really easy to use and he was totally right I start with Valspar PVA primer which is really good to use on Raw drywall like this if it was a previously painted wall I could go straight to the Sherwin-Williams single coat paint and primer that I'm going to use later on don't drop that I did some testing on some scrap drywall and then I jumped into my first wall on this first wall I did go a little bit too fast but I adjusted on the rest of the walls and got really really good results and it went about 10 times faster than if I was just using a roller [Music] now there are a couple different types of sprayers out there they have both airless and what's called high volume low pressure types I chose this Wagner 4000 which is one of those HV LP because it also comes with a smaller finishing spray gun and I plan to use that for finishing some woodworking projects I'm also going to use it for things like finishing a couple decks this summer it was definitely a great investment that I'm really excited about using in the future foreign [Music] for the paint I went with the Sherwin-Williams showcase it's a paint and primer blend with a one coat guarantee and even though this paint recommends using an airless sprayer it came out beautifully using my Wagner sprayer which is that high volume low pressure type foreign [Music] I was really impressed with the quality of this paint and how good that first coat looked it really didn't need a second coat but since this was my first time with the sprayer the speed in which it went up how much paint I had left and the fact that it was actually a lot of fun to paint I did go over and do a second coat using horizontal Strokes to overlap those vertical strokes and to be honest this was the nicest looking paint job I've ever done foreign [Music] [Music] well everybody thanks so much for watching I hope you learned some stuff I know I did I'm really excited about this project it's really opened up this basement it looks great the walls look great everything's nice and clean and open that egress windows letting a lot of nice light down here I'm super excited to get on to the next part of this which is the floor and ceiling so make sure you're subscribed so you don't miss that project so that you can go and improve your space in your home try this project it's really not that tough and it's really going to improve the value of your home and also the enjoyment of living down there so we'll see on the next project thanks

Channel: Third Coast Craftsman

Views: 664,344

Keywords: basement remodel, diy basement remodel, drywall, framing, steel stud framing, how to basement remodel, basement drywall, framing a basement, remodeling a basement, remodeling a basement on a budget, basement remodeling, basement remodeling ideas, basement remodel diy, easy paint sprayer, easy paint spray gun, home improvement ideas, home improvement, how to remodel a basement, basement, remodel, basement renovation

Id: Gq3EfotRPDE

Length: 15min 35sec (935 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 16 2019