HOW TO Install a metal frame ceiling

today i'm going to show you how to install a metal furring ceiling or better known in the trade as mf tools we actually need to install an mf ceiling a pair of tin snips for cutting the metal a standing knife for cutting our plasterboards to screw fix to our mf ceiling short line to mark our lines on the ceiling and around the perimeter of the wall a tape measure so we can get our measurements correct a cordless screw gun for fixing the plasterboards to the mf ceiling if you haven't got a cordless screw gun which is purpose made for drywall then you could use an ordinary cordless drill we have a spirit level this will also help us get a level line around our room or it's an alternative method you can hire or if you wish to you could purchase a laser level and this will give us a level line around the perimeter of our room and most importantly the pencil so there's the tools that you would need to install an mf ceiling we can now look at the components that go together to make an mf ceiling we have the j track or the perimeter edge channel this will go all the way around the perimeter of the room this is the primary channel this actually carries the weight of the plasterboards on the mf ceiling the ceiling channel better known in the trade as top hat this is what the plasterboards are screw fixed to metal angle we fix this to the primary channels and to our soffit and finally the ceiling clip this will actually fasten the ceiling channel to the primary channel and is used in a single bordered system high thread screw used for fixing the edge channel into timber backgrounds or the metal angle into timber joists remember we actually need 25 millimeters minimum into the timber this is a 12 millimeter self drilling wafer head screw we need self drilling because some of the metal components that we will be using are thicker a 12 millimeter self drilling pan head screw used for fixing the top hat to the primary channel 25 millimeter self tapping screw used for fixing the plasterboards to the top hat or ceiling channel nailable plugs these can be used for fixing the edge channel to timber or breeze block walls they cannot be used on the soffits when fixing the metal angle for this we have a special fixing because it is fire rated we shouldn't use this fixing into concrete soffits and fixing the metal angle the reason being is in case of fire the plastic plug will melt and there is a chance that the ceiling will fall the first thing we need to do is get a level line around the perimeter of our room one of the methods is to measure down from our existing ceiling soffit and place a mark if you do that on either end of the wall we can then snap a short line between those two marks there is no maximum but the minimum depth he can go to is a hundred millimeters another method is to use a spirit level this method is not quite as accurate and great care should be taken the most accurate method to get a level line around the period of the room is obviously the laser level this will then give us a level line all the way around the perimeter of our room once you have the light shining around the room you can mark the line in each corner using those marks snap a short line all the way around the perimeter of the room what we can now do is cut our edge channel j-track to the lengths required well that's my first piece cut and ready to install mf ceilings can actually be installed by yourself but they are best if you work in pairs the largest edge actually faces into the room so it faces down into the room behind here is a metal stud petition so i'm just going to use a 25 mil self tapper into my metal studs behind my studs are at 600 centers so that makes it very easy to get my screw centers in the corner we leave a three to a maximum five millimeter gap that allows our next piece to actually slide into place it also if you are working on your own acts as a support and i can concentrate on fixing my opposite end now we've installed our edge channel all the way around the perimeter of our room we need to set out for our primary channels and our metal angle which will support the primary channels the primary channel will go at 6 nine or twelve hundred centers this is dependent on the weight of the plasterboards not how many layers if you're unsure contact our enquiry line tell them what type of plasterboard you're using how many layers of plasterboard you're applying and they will guide you to the correct centers for your primary channels the metal angle will always go at 1200 along the primary channel for this installation what i'm going to do is i'm going to use 1200 centers for my primary channels so from my wall i will mark my first 1200 center again i'll mark my second 1200 center i'll now do this on the opposite wall and snap a short line between the two marks i'm now going to set out at right angles to those lines for my metal angle where these lines cross which you'll see in a moment is where my metal angle needs to be suspended from the soffit top tip to prepare your metal angle what you need to get the an approximate correct length is offer it up to the soffit and just below your edge channel that will give you an approximate length because we are going to shorten this by folding the ends in together approximately half the length of the cut of the tip pair of tin snips fold one edge in fold the other edge in okay once we've got that we now need to drill a hole through those two pieces of metal so that this will suspend from our ceiling to do that there are a couple of methods pre-drill it using a drill bit you could because i'm going into a timber soffit i'm going into a timber joist i can use a high thread screw and go through now this is quite tricky make sure you are wearing your gloves once it's through put the drill in reverse and pull the screw out an alternative you may find it easier to start it using a self drilling wafer head screw reverse and then we can put in our suitable fixing for fixing into the soffit so where our lines cross as we can see here is where we need our metal angle we now continue to fix all our metal angle where our lines cross we can now cut and prepare our primary channel generally speaking the primary channels go the longest length of the room again the primary channel should be three to a maximum five millimeters shorter than the width of the room this will allow it to fit into place first time and twist so that is how the primary channel sits against our metal angle we drill through the metal angle into the primary channel using two self drilling wafer head screws and this is repeated on all the metal angles we now need to cut our ceiling channels to the correct length again they need to be three to a maximum of five millimeters shorter than the room width and these will fit at right angles to our primary channels they go at 400 centers for 2.4 meter plasterboards and 450 for 1800 length plasterboards two seven length plasterboards depending what length of plasterboard you are using your ceiling channels will go at 400 centers or maximum 450 centers our ceiling channel is now ready to put into position we now need to fix our ceiling channels to our primary channel and we can do that using the connecting clip the clips must go alternate so to demonstrate my connecting clip sits underneath our ceiling channel using your thumbs press firmly onto the primary channel they must go in alternate directions so the second clip in this case will go in the opposite direction i'm sure you've heard the ceiling tiles in an office as you force the door open you can hear them lift the same thing would happen with your mf ceiling so they go in opposite direction and they work against each other as soon as you go to two plasterboards on the ceiling whether it be two standard wall boards or two db boards you must screw fix the ceiling channel to the primary channel we can do that by using a 12 millimeter self drilling pan head screw an mf ceiling system is very strong don't try this at home now our ceiling's in position you could include insulation in the cavity we're now going to install a plasterboard the plasterboard is now held in position just with those few screws but what i now need to do is secure it in place we actually screw fix onto ceilings every 230 millimeters around the perimeter we screw fix every 150 millimeters obviously here we need an off coat of plasterboard okay um to fill this gap when we start boarding again we would actually stagger the joint so we would start with a full board from this wall going into the opposite direction that staggers the cross joints compared to timber a metal furring ceiling is quick and easy to install it will meet the fire and acoustic regulations acoustics especially in separating floors in flats happy building

Channel: Siniat UK

Views: 1,012,523

Keywords: Ceiling, metal frame, how to, plasterboard, plaster, renovation, Building (Site Listing Category), self build, Do It Yourself (Hobby)

Id: oh_-su4Vv3A

Length: 14min 43sec (883 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 01 2014