HOW DRYWALL MUD SHOULD LOOK

hello and welcome to Vancouver carpenter so what should your mud look like once you've put it on the wall for each of the various stages so this topic is actually much more important than you might think because it dictates how much sanding you're gonna have to do whether you're gonna have to do another coat basically it means how much work are you gonna have to do so first let's see what a first coat over fresh drywall should look like I'm just loading it on pretty thick and now I'm gonna feather my edge feather my edge and I'm gonna do a few passes here two and three like it was a butt joint okay so I've got my edge well feathered and then it gets into the mud and we've got here what is a lift off not a line a line is when the edge of your trowel digs in well it's almost a lift off let's do it a little harder that's a line you don't want those you want liftoffs lift offs and lines need to be filled also let's look at the texture of the mud can you see that it's kind of grainy looking here where I just skimmed it it's looking flat it's looking really compressed and here it's grainy next let's quickly do this painted surface because sometimes they come out different than fresh drywall my edge okay let's take a look at this okay so first coat over paint edge feathered reasonably I've got that nice grainy looking mud just what I want so that means it's not too compressed and now look once we get to where the previously coated surface is so this has already been first coated and then it goes right into there that's when we start to get the crazy bubble problem so the first coat on both surfaces seemed to go really well I was able to get the texture I was looking for but let's coat this joint that bridges the gap from the old to the new okay so I'm just gonna do the standard amount of white that it would take to get this looking good on the fresh drywall finished leaving a decent amount of my finish and this is the fresh drywall so we've got that nice grainy looking mud that we're going for which means we have about a sixteenth of an inch of mud built up on there so that there's something to fill and sand it's looking good so let's get going down to the painted surface and we've got those brutal bubbles once again total pain now we've also got this one spot that was skimmed before I ended up putting another coat on it so it's actually looking not too bad there's some bubbles but why does this one look good and then when we get back here it looks so bad so this part looks so bad because over the painted surface the moisture and the porosity the mud has nowhere else to go but back out whereas over the fresh drywall the drywall is like very porous and it's got the paper which is very porous that has somewhere for the moisture in the mud to go so it goes into the board and you can with just a few wipes get a really nice surface now you might be thinking well why can't I just skim the whole thing tight and the reason is is you want this grainy appearance you want there to be a little bit of a sanding coat because when you've got something like right here where I've got the tape showing through if I do it skim coat now that tape is still showing through I haven't been able to bury it or hide it and make it so that it's gonna finish out nicely which means now I'm gonna have to do touch-ups after paint and that's a problem because when you're trying to do tape and two coats and have a system and get a job in and out and done then you can't be coming back for touch-ups all the time because you had to skim everything too tight so you need a system and part of my system is you have to skim the painted surface after your first coat and then do your final coat so let's do that so this right here it just needs to be skin tight and because I know this whole painted wall is gonna do that I may as well do that right from the step it's super important to get that sanding coat just right also that way if you accidently scratch it while sanding you can still correct it you still have a little bit of material on there that you can sand down and then still have a nice finish so we're just skimming out the bottom because the top doesn't need that extra attention [Music] so the bottom looks nice and smooth now and a lot of people would go oh yeah that's great that's great but just trust me in the years I've been doing this I found you need to be able to leave that extra little bit of a coat so now that I've done that now I can actually skim this all so you can use the wall as a hawk if you've run out of material well hey here's some material use some material you don't always have to go back to the pocket just to get a little bit of material [Applause] okay this is now loaded and I can finish pass it so I'm using a light pressure for this for the skin it was like a hard tight pressure at 45 degrees and I was just scraping it all off I put it on I scrape it off so now what I'm doing on this one is I'm using a much lighter pressure and less of an angle of the blade so my blade is much flatter the wall and I'm just floating it over the surface so there was one other texture in the drywall that I didn't show you yet and that is pause so pucks are just the natural porosity of the mud so this just means it hasn't been passed over enough times yet so once I do my light finish passes over a couple times those pucks are all gonna disappear and it's gonna turn all into nice grainy even mud so just a few more passes here we're almost done always get a moving start into your mud never start from the middle you can't just go plunk drag get a moving start and you can work your way in all right that is satisfactory let's take a look only the tiniest little bubbles so those will fill in with paint like those are microscopic like a pinhead so we've got just really light small lift offs that will sand super easily if you actually look at the scale of the wall they're tiny from up here they look huge but it's all skimmed out really even consistent texture got that nice grainy look no box just the odd tiny fisheye but that's gonna fill in with paint again it's super easy so very smooth right down to the painted wall where it's all skimmed oh so there you have it mud consistency mud texture I find that to be one of the most important things that you never actually hear anybody talking about so being able to get that consistent grainy film so you've got like a sixteenth of an inch of mud ensures that you have a really nice surface for sanding it ensures that you have coverage and better leveling capabilities and it also sands easier so when you have that uniform grainy appearance what it means is that it's all gonna sound the same if you've got parts that are compressed like if you've been trialing super hard and you're compressing that mud into itself then that is gonna sand differently than the grainy stuff it sands harder and if you've ever sanded a wall and think it's gonna be great and then you start painting it and you see that sort of layering effect where one of it looks hard and one of it looks different that's from having a different consistency of mud so once again having that uniform grainy appearance make sure that it's all the same it's all gonna sand the same and it's all gonna paint the same so anyways thanks for watching Vancouver carpenter the super drywaller II carpenter and I got nothing else to say go get them grains til the next video

Channel: Vancouver Carpenter

Views: 224,271

Keywords: drywall, patch, hole, wall, ceiling, repair, fix, damage, easy, fast, mud, tape, taping, mudding, joint, compound, spackle, corner, inside, outside, DIY, bubbles, smooth, sand, sanding

Id: 3xtwRZ56d5w

Length: 11min 32sec (692 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 22 2019