The EASIEST WAY to SKIM COAT a wall!!!

hello and welcome to Vancouver carpenter today I am gonna repair this wall that has been damaged by wallpaper removal so this is not a severely damaged wall but it just has lots of little Nicks and dings all over the place and the roller lines from wallpaper removal tools so what we're gonna do is just a quick skim coat and I'm going to show you guys a really easy way to do it so this is the easiest way to skim coat a wall and we're talking drywall mud here not plaster that's a totally different animal as the guys from Europe no we don't do plaster over these parts just cheap crumbly drywall mud so we are going to be applying the mud using a roller and that's what makes this so do it yourself friendly is because it's a really easy way to apply the mud which is often the hardest job for people trying to attempt to skim coat so I've got my mud in here you're gonna mix it up and we'll show you what the consistency should be now some people might think it needs to be like super thin and pourable so that you can pour it into a paint tray and roll it on like paint but that's not what you want you actually want it to be kind of stiffer if the mud is too thin then it's gonna make it way more likely to get pinhole bubbles as you're applying it and smoothing it out [Music] it's basically the same thickness that I like to cope with so its slumping a little but it's gonna hold its form nicely okay what you're gonna need now is you're going to need a paint roller I'm using a 19 mil which is also a three quarter mil and this is just a crusty old one that's been used for exteriors it's ready to be demoted to drywall but next you're gonna want to have a twelve inch knife or a 10 inch whatever you're more comfortable with in a pan or a hawk I prefer a pan for this method and here's how this is gonna work now forgive me guys haven't done this in a long time because I usually just skim it up with hock and trowel but this is a really good method for homeowners so take a look at this stuff so this is the hardest part is getting this first saturated with mud and learning how to handle this without making a huge mess so getting close to fully covered once it gets fully covered the first couple times then it works a lot better anyway so as you can see I've got this covered invite here and I'm just gonna start rolling here there's some beautiful textures we've all seen those in somebody's basement somewhere somebody gave up on drywall finishing and decided to give it the old roller texture anyways I'm just trying to give it an even coat and I'm staying about an inch away from the bottom and an inch away from the other corner of the wall and so again I dunk this in and it doesn't need to be fully covered I just need that and be quick about it and one of the things I love about this is it seems to work out the porosity like all of the air in the mud seems to just get worked out by pushing it back and forth with the roller so that's one of my favorite things about this method even though I find it kind of messy I don't like having to have other tools handy it just seems to be a really nice finish I'm trying to stay away from the plug about an inch or so she I've managed to get pretty close anyways there we go I'm gonna set up the camera back further away but you guys got a good close up here what it's looking like so I actually want to get from floor to ceiling coated and you can actually as long as you're gonna start drying out on you you can get surprisingly far with this method like you can do you know like 4 by 8 feet pretty easily or if you have 2 people you get one person running the roller and one person running the night behind it can really go fast and it really does do good results too so I can't you one more spread here get moved you just want to make sure that it's not drying out on you so that's your limit how far can you go without it drying out on you I'm not even gonna push it and go one more here this works really well on ceilings too you can even use it over a light texture not a fun ancient popcorn like an acoustic popcorn did that'll get saturated and then pull off the wall ok so no my nice clean 12 volts knife so here's what we are going to do look at your blade because it's going to have the tips curved up and abandoned in a certain direction and you want to make sure that the tips are curved up away from the wall or this is not gonna work nicely so let's take a look at this alright here what we're going to we're gonna go up into the top and I'm just going to wipe down and grab a bit of mud and I'm going to go right back up to the top so that I can actually get that last inch that I stayed away from and now I'm going to do the same thing go down to the bottom and I'm not pushing so hard to take it all off I'm just trying to flatten the mud out and we'll get it closed up in a minute and in fact I'm not moving fast enough here so what I was doing is I started with my knife kind of pushed that way and now I'm going this way anything that's exaggerated of course but I got speed up and then we'll do a small section and also you can show you guys again but it's coding really nicely and don't get too fussed guys really you just got to make sure you get over the wall before it starts to spin up get over on you because you can always touch stuff up but what you don't want is this stuff off skinning over becoming a horrible mess and a bit more math because I had a boy but this really does nice results haven't done it in a long time though but I always liked it don't know why I don't do it more often laziness I guess which doesn't make sense they better keep going here so you just want to go back into your last run a little bit a couple inches and if you notice that it's a lot thicker on one spot and a lot thinner on one spot you can just give it like the quick little dunk and then just write a bit more of that much because it's nice to have an even consistency like up top I've got a half into maybe like a quarter inch of mine down at the bottom it's like pretty sparse so the bottom is drying out faster than the top so I'm just gonna kind of spread it a little bit further I think I'm only gonna go about three rollers wide on this one so I often start in the middle like that's why it was so thick at the top is because I started in at the top just like rolling paint wherever you start is where you put the most of it so if you want to get an even spread and I should have been doing this but just a little out of practice start in the middle so now by starting in the middle I've got most of the mud in the middle remember you can just stay a couple inches away because you're gonna hold that mud and put it into the top so you don't want to be hitting the ceiling or other walls we go one more spread here and there's a technique to it like you kind of gotta be fast if you're if you're slow and you push too hard on it what you're gonna do is you're kind of going to snow plow the mud and you'll have like a roll they're full of mud all on the floor which is super cool or if you're doing it from the floor on the ceiling you might have a roller full of mud fall on your face how'd that happen - it's super possum okay check my blade to make sure it's facing the right way and again just go up to the ceiling like so you're grabbing a little bit of mud from one pass and you're going up to the ceiling remember angling your pressure so that you're leaving the line on this side note on this side I forgot to mention you guys I'm just using a lightweight all-purpose and in my opinion that's the best month to use is a lightweight all-purpose because it still has enough glue in it to stick to almost any surface but it also it smoothes out real nice whereas if you're using like say a heavyweight all-purpose it's gluey and sticky and isn't necessarily gonna spread nice in one coat so the lightweight all-purpose or even better as a finishing mist as long as you know it's gonna stick well like over almost any just regular painted wall a finished mud is gonna work really well anyways back to it you got some lights here maybe you guys can actually see what this looks like when I'm feathering it out again I'm going just a couple inches into my work you can see it that it's not an even spread like it's just it's all over the place it's the knife work that makes it nice and smooth and part of the reason I like it is it's a bit less messy so it shrinks less you get less bubbles and it's less messy so that's why I apply this thicker than a lot of people would and what I mean is the consistency of the mud is thicker like it's not super thin and soupy this is the same thickness that I would do with first coat with so it's actually pretty thick compared to what a lot of people would think you can always go back over your feather lines to wet it down a bit that's looking good [Music] worst case scenario you can come back and touch up around the outlets when it's a little bit drier so you don't have to floss too much about those if you guys are struggling with that spot which there's a definite possibility but you know I've got a lot of years of experience of messing around going around outlets so I make it look pretty easy but that part can definitely be challenging just remember it's easier to touch stuff up and to mess it up farting around it to the top it's always nice when there's something in your mind leaving an awesome line and if you guys are wondering if you should do this with a hawk or trowel instead of the penknife well look at it this way I'm a hawk and travel guy and I'm using pen and knife for this so that should answer your question this is an easier tool to use to do this so you Americans that have heard of a hawk and trowel you'll be happy about that and a knife is supreme in this case it's a little bit early but I'm just gonna be touching up some things because it's it's a little bit of ideally though you should wait to touch it up until it's fully dry so as you guys can see I was able to leave a really nice finish on here I mean it's hard to see anything because well it's pretty flat there's a lift off there's some light liftoffs but overall yeah I mean you just can't see much I've got just a little bit of the washboard up here and that's from having the wrong angle and pressure I was rushing but I'll be able to sand that out there's a nice like uniform 1 or 2 mils of drywall mud on here no air bubbles really happy with it anyways there's nothing to see here guys it's flat and smooth so that is the easiest way to skim coat a wall with drywall mud I hope you guys got something useful out of this video it's definitely a super handy tool to have in the arsenal as you can see it's fast it does a really good job it's user friendly like super do-it-yourself friendly now it might take you two coats to get it perfect there's going to be a learning curve but you can get really good results without a lot of drywall experience and doing this method so hopefully you got something out of this video I hope it helps anyways thanks for watching you guys and spin another Vancouver carpenter video definitely Vancouver drywall today okay thanks for watching you guys did just go skim your walls that's what you came here for what are you watching for now go skinnier walls before I forget you guys I'm not gonna do sanding in this video if you want a video about sanding drywall I will link it in the description below

Channel: Vancouver Carpenter

Views: 381,719

Rating: 4.899982 out of 5

Keywords: drywall, skim, coat, repair, install, mud, crack, hole, wall, best, fast, easy, patch, plaster, tape, taping, mudding, joint, compound, joint compound, mesh tape, setting, quickset, DIY, finish, topping, paper tape, gypsum, wallboard, different, types, corner, inside, outside, trowel, knife, drywall finishing, plastering, taper, mudder, fix

Id: AVxIVdDEFTI

Length: 16min 24sec (984 seconds)

Published: Mon Jul 22 2019