The Biggest Problem with Ford's Ecoboost Engine & How to Fix It: RX Catch Can Installation

[Music] Hey hey everyone welcome back to the channel today we're going to show you how to install a catch-can on your EcoBoost engine now a catch can is almost a necessity on a EcoBoost engine because it is boosted there is excessive blow bypassed the Pistons into the crankcase and then all gets put back into the intake and burned and it ultimately gets stuck in the backside of the intake valves and cakes up and causes performance issues cold start issues and all kinds of drivability issues in general it's a real problem on any direct-injected engine and then we add the turbo and the oil carryover in the extra pressures it becomes a big problem now in this video we're going to go over the problem the theory behind the catch can and why this particular catch can set up work so well under all boost conditions to evacuate all those oil vapors water vapors acids you name it from the crankcase trap and condense them so they do not get burned and sent back to the actual intake this makes sure that your intake valves are as clean as possible for as long as possible so there's no performance or drivability issues with your engine next we're going to go over the installation in detail giving you my tips and tricks as we go along for what I found the work best even over what the manufacturer recommends for the installation instructions okay first things first I'm going to go over why a catch can is needed on the EcoBoost engine now this right here is a PCV flow diagram for a naturally aspirated port fuel-injected engine and it worked out great for many many years no problems did the job no ill effects at all now the EcoBoost is designed the same exact way and Theron lies the first problem the way the system works is fresh clean filtered air comes into one valve cover goes down through to valve train into the crankcase their corrupt collects the oil vapors fuel vapors water vapors blow by gases acids all that stuff and it evacuates out through the other valve cover through a PCV valve and right back into the intake BRE burned in the combustion chamber now this worked out great because there wasn't as much blow-by on the older lower compression engines back in the day nowadays with the EcoBoost engine there's a lot higher pressures on this side of the piston because of all that air being stuffed into the cylinder not only that but they're also using new low friction compression rings that offer better fuel economy but more blow-by so you can see that the PCV system on an EcoBoost is loaded up that much more compared to a regular naturally aspirated system like that and that leads us to our next issue here on the old port fuel injection systems it would look just like this all those dirty oily vapors came right on through here to get reburn in the cylinder well they did collect on the backside of the intake valves but they were also constantly being cleaned by the fuel injector and that the fuel nowadays has such high detergents and on it would actually keep that valve clean now it also has a cooling effect on the backside that's valve the valve itself so therefore those deposits didn't get baked Donna there now look in comparison over here with GTI and GTD I as in the EcoBoost the injector injects fuel directly into the cylinder for many many reasons power performance fuel economy but it does not clean the backside that intake valve more we're still getting all those deposits oil vapors and everything else being directed right on through here and now the valve is not being cooled by the fuel either so therefore they're coming through and they're begging on the back side of valve what we call coking and it just builds up on the valve to the point with the airflow and the intake side here is actually restricted and some of the direct injection and G TDI of benefits are being negated by that and you can see it right here is a good idea of it right here now this is how it looks in the backside of the intake valves mega bake down at all oily vapors and this can happen in as little as twenty thousand miles I've seen on my own 2012 2.0 litre EcoBoost engine so now you can see why it's so important for you to install a catch can't prevent this from happening in the first place not only this but also Ford has no approved cleaning procedure to clean these off here so once the problem starts the problem is yours ok real quick I want to go over the system diagram so I'm going to show you how it's all laid out on your vehicle and of course how the system works so we're going to start over here with the air filter box we're going to drill into the side of it and we're going to put a 90-degree elbow right here a piece of tubing on over to your oil fill cap now we're going to change out your oil fill cap with the clean side separate over here so we can allow air to come in without oil vapors going out what that's going to allow is clean filtered air from your air box to come over into the valvetrain of course through the crankcase and up and through the passenger side so the PCV the evacuation system can work just like your stock setup now normally this B port right here goes directly into the intake and that allows all those vapors to come into the intake get distributed just like the rest of the air into each one of your cylinders and intake valves the problem is they don't really get burned inside the cylinders most of it gets caught in the backside of the intake valves and causes a blockage inside of there that's causing your cold start issues your drivability issues your poor fuel economy and all of that so we're trying to avoid that by taking these dirty gases right here out and over we're going to add a piece of tubing right here and we're going to go over to the catch can and the catch can is going to take those vapors condense them down and trap them inside of here now how we going to get this catch can to work well we're going to supply it vacuum so what we're going to do simply is tap off that vacuum port on the intake where be used to go to and we're going to supply vacuum through a check valve over to the catch-can and that allows the catch-can to to draw his vapors out under idle conditions when there's a sufficient intake manifold vacuum now when there's boost conditions the pressure inside a manifold is just that it's pressure we're not at achieving much vacuum so the system will not work so well on this particular setup what we do see the aiport right here is we're going to supply a vacuum through a check valve once again from the turbo inlet side when these turbos are spooled up and they're really sucking the air through the compressor side here and compressing it they actually draw a vacuum through the inlet side here so we can tap off of it on this side we're going to have to have to drill into it and put a fitting on there and a piece of tubing right here and then we're going to tee it off ideally you don't have to but you really should get it from both sides we're going to get that vacuum draw from both sides now on this side of the driver's side turbo inlet there's actually a nipple on there so we can just clip right on to that and get our vacuum under boost that way but it's best to get it from both turbos we can really have that suction during boost conditions to still evacuate everything out from the crankcase the reason being is under boost there's even more bypassing those pistons so as you can see with the setup on here we're able to draw those vapors out of here under idle conditions and boost conditions it's kind of ingenious design the important part here I want to note well we have the system diagram up on here is these two check valves okay I make it black ones you may get silver ones with arrows if you get with arrows make sure the arrows are pointing towards the vacuum source will be pointing this way and same thing with this line right here the arrow on it is going to point this way now if you're not sure what you can do with the new check valves in hand is actually suck on this side of the valve and make sure that you're able to pass air through there that's the side you want on the suction side and alternately you can flip it over course to suck on this side and you should not be able to pass anything through there that's a good check to do before you ever put the valves on and make sure the system is properly so it can work properly okay the first thing I like to do is mount the bracket and a catch can right in this area next to the horn right here and what you're going to do is start getting this shield right here this air deflector out of the way so we can start routing all the hoses through here now there's a couple pushpins there's one right here here and here and you're going to want to take those out with a trim tool like this you can see and we'll get it out of the way speaking route stuff through it'll come back we'll trim around it and put it back into place in the end we're going to come on the backside here and get in there and start taking these out all the way down be careful so you don't break the plastic on here and be patient and get them through I say the top two in reality is really all that's needed and I'll use a cat claw like this grip it and pull it through again be patient so we can get him through without breaking anything just like that now over here there's a script right here to screw rivet you want to take that out little tricky to get it out just unscrew it a little bit till it comes out a little bit your pet claw behind here and it'll come right out looks just like that this whole thing can fold down into the front end here we have our room right here to slide all our hoses through now the way this bolts up onto here is we're going to pull the single bolt out right here that holds the horn on and we're going to put a bracket in its place and then another bracket right here then I'll go down to the catch can and just going to hang right in this area right here that way the top of the cam is right here and I'll go right through with all our lines so where's kind of feed three of these hoses through here that come with the kit and we're going to feed them up and through the engine compartment here we'll do one at a time and get each one of these set okay now the first thing I like to do is install the new cap there places the oil cap and this is the clean side separator right here this goes you oil fill cap on the side there and that allows the fresh air from the air filtered air to go into the crankcase so that when you evacuate it out the other side it's not actually in a vacuum castle again fresh air in and we're taking the bat out the other side so in order to do that we need to drill a hole in the side here and put a fitting on there 90 degree fitting looks a little something like this and that's going to go right here on the side of it okay and we're going to run a piece of the same hose over to the oil fill cap over here which is changed out with this separator right here and they'll plug right in so go ahead and turn take our boost pressure sensor off here and let pressure sensor just disconnect it out to the side eight mil on our clamp here this will unclip the airbox just like you were checking for an air filter get that out of there and then we're going to drill the hole right here it's half-inch hole and we're going to thread that fitting in let's go ahead and pull our oil fill cap off we'll pull the engine cover off it just picks up in the front where it snaps in both sides and the back just kind of hooks in so it pulls right off now this separator right here actually comes apart there's a top and bottom to it so you take this and you screw it into your oil fill cap just like a regular oil fill cap until it stops okay and this part just simply pulls out from it whenever you need to do an oil change so put this in here for right now so we can get our length measurement all right the next thing we're going to do is drill the half-inch hole on the back side of your air filter housing right here now mine I figured the best location is just underneath that coolant return hose so you can kind of slide it through there I made a white dot it's like get location for it and just to let you know where I'm going to put mine is around 45 millimeters in and 50 millimeters down okay we're just going to drill a hole in it with a half-inch bit [Applause] nice and straight get rid of all our filings both inside and out now what I found is that the best way to get this in here without a tap and we're using plastic elbows on here is to actually use a stepper bit like that right there we're going to step it down and go through and we'll start going down through for our next largest side which is too big we'll get it down where it's got a nice little thin almost thread there and we can go ahead and start putting this in there and I'll threaten there real nice and tight that way all right there it is in the end it's nice and thread it in there nice and tight see it comes through the other side and I'm ready to install the air filter cover back on all right let's secure this back of them seam it before you're all lined up and latched and take snorkle back on whose pressure sensor back on and let pressure sensor take it up now we're simply going to take a measurement with the same hose from that Barb we just installed on over to the oil fill cap separator and you want to allow you know I'm not interest sell because engine is going to torque and you want yanking out of there we'll go ahead and simply install it make sure you push it on all the way on both sides and the barb itself will do the rest and that's how it looks in the end you can see we have the separator on our length of hose goes right over a nice curve to our 90 that's in the airbox here fully reassembled once again and then I'll allow the nice fresh air to come into the engine okay next thing we're going to take off the PCV line over here and this is the actual regulated flow into the intake that's dragging all that dirty contaminated air pretty much you know with whale vapors and acids and all that this line is taking all that out of the crankcase and putting it back through the intake and that's where you're getting all your contaminants back in through the engine intake and intake valves and what's baking on top of the Pistons themselves it's all just going to bake and sound it there because it's so hot and it's getting missed it on there continuously so we're go ahead and tape this off now with our stock OEM fitting right here that snaps right on to the barb here the actual PCV sticking out on the valve cover we're going to take that make sure it's cleaned off of all oil residue we're going to take this line which goes to the center and let the can we're going to push it all the on to here and it should fit real nice and tight and of course the barbs are going to do their job let's make sure you get all the way on there spin it around okay it's going to take some time just be patient get it all on there so there's no issues alright a little bit of muscles a little bit of patience and look at that it's like a stock fitting on there so we'll go ahead and we'll sneak it right past here okay and you simply clip it on like OAM and you see a little right underneath here pass the two VC T's right here and the wire the holes right here and it'll fit under the stock engine cover this one again is going to the middle port on the catch can done now the way you separate the hose the stock hose from the fitting stock fitting just being a snap right back onto these is two I like to heat this part with a heat gun a little bit softer and then of course your something a razor blade to the outer sheathing or tubing okay and you're going to cut it just deep enough now what they heat it up with a heat gun this will simply just peel right away and won't even damage the o-ring underneath here or anything on the stock snapped to connect fitting right here so that's the way to get these apart this way we can retain the factory ability to snap right on it's a really good connection that way and there you go a little bit of heat gun action and because this is pressed on it here at the factory a little bit of heat and a nice little slip and actually separates all by itself and there you go no damage to the stock fitting and of course this she is toss away okay next thing we're going to do is cap off this port right here we're going to finish that that one goes right to the catch can also so is this one the last one goes to the different treble inlets for vacuum sources under boost so what this one is is where all the vapors are going back into the intake so we need a check valve on here so that the vapors only flow to the intake okay don't want to come back out and through so we're going to take our straight fitting we just cut off that snaps right onto here okay when we put about three inches of hose on it we're going to get it fully pushed down there and then we're going to do the same thing with our check valve now the check valve is paying your your style may or may not have an arrow on it this one has an arrow on it and of course you can blow through and let go out this way towards the intake so check it and make sure that you're putting it on right you want the flow to go into the hose here so same thing just like that it'll go right out of there we'll put a large sectional hose on here and that will go back to the catch can now this particular style check valve is really nice aluminum and all that good stuff but I don't like how loose it fits on here you can see but it comes right off and on so for this one we're going to do is put a small clamp on here and this way it's just not coming off we'll do that on both sides of it okay here we go here's our other section of line coming up through here and that's going to go right to the port that goes back into the intake and connect to the other side of this we just made up like to clean this off real quick look at oil is fine but just clean it off and then we'll snap this onto here okay we're good to go and then we'll be able to get our length for this hose going back on and you just adjust it as necessary again leave a little bit extra as the engine torques when it goes on the road and you take off so right there we got a little bit of extra but it's still nice and tight so the engine cover can go back on again I'm going to use hose clamp because it goes on way too easy tighten that down one thing to note is if you have this style you're putting the hose clamps on big thing on engines is wired shapes so you don't want the end right here Chaffin to like these VCT wires and stuff like that right here so you can see my clamp sections are above here away from the engine all right that one's good to go to now that one and the other one are routed out and over to where the catch cans in a go we can step this one right here once again leaving a little bit of extra and the rest of this is for the next section we're going to do actually it looks like this one going over the top of this one is even better even more of a reason to make sure your clamp is on rubbing on the hose nice tight connection no stress in the lines little extra slack as ancient works these two are good to go next we're going to do the inlet side of both turbos so you can get the vacuum under boost also okay back over here on the driver's side valve cover you can see we're on the driver side here this one's nice and easy there's another PCV line right here okay right there take that off of there like that and what's nice on this size this is actually the inlet for the driver side turbo so we can clip right onto that and run our line over to our tee and this line right here coming out of the valve cover we're just going to cap that off okay and we can snap to connect right onto that one and bring the line over to our tee and then we're going to go over to the passenger side turbo also so we can get vacuum draw from both sides and of course the same thing with this PCV line we're going to separate the snap to connect from the hose so we can reuse it with our hose included in the kit so I'll show you real quick how easy it is use our heat gun keep moving around and this tubing is ultra thin so [Applause] you'll pull it off and watch it's soft right now see out right there hopefully you can see that I'm barely doing anything here cuddle at the end and look at that it just separates and comes right up now for our next toes we're going to go ahead and drape it over the engine over the throttle body area there come up and over we're going to connect it into that inlet to the driver side turbo we just took off that fitting from that'll snap right out of there real nice and secure there we go and they can just take it and drape it over okay with our line coming over from the driver's side turbo we're going to drape it around just like this over to here and we're going to tap into the passenger side turbo now this one has no quick connect fitting unfortunately so what they have us doing is drilling that same sized hole as we did earlier on the air intake we're going to do the same thing over here we're going to drill the hole and we're going to thread in the straight barbed fitting so they'll go right into here and that when we get the suction from the passenger side turbo also now with this procedure you want to really take off this intake tube right here so you don't have no shavings going down into the turbo so there's a clamp down there you can get through the wheel well I'll show you real quick you can see it right there okay that's going into the front a turbo there and they're just going to follow it up and around there's a line right here and of course over to the split off we're going to do this clamp this whole thing come right out we can do it on the ground do it properly and there it is nice tight and secure thread it in - they're ready to go so you can go ahead and put this pipe back on again just make sure once then all drilling is done do a nice clean out of the - with some compressed air then go ahead and reinstall it back on the vehicle both sides and don't forget your vacuum hose on here and we can go ahead and finish the installation and this right here is the completed t-junction going back over to the driver side Inlet for vacuum from that side and of course from this side we're going through a check valve again use hose clamps because it fits too loose on there and we're just going to fit it right on through to the other side weakest Arkan connections now now once your can is set and it's clamped down this clamp right here in the bracketry and all that we have our height set we can go ahead and adjust these hoses so they have a nice smooth flow to them and they can finish tighten down these these aen fittings right here and getting it snug them enough a seat in there very well there's no need for excessive pressure on there okay another note point back together you want to put your deflectors in here because they do make sure that the air flows through the condenser and the radiator all that both sides so they're very important we took this one off earlier so make sure you put push the push pins back in okay both of them and of course your screw bit over here and I have trim it just a little bit a little notch in there so these lines to come right through and it can still sit on here properly and seal this cavity directing airflow through this area okay at this point the whole system is installed I just wanted to go through real quick what I did and which port is which on here now this far right port right here goes through okay and you can kind of follow it around there that one is going up and over to the inlet of the intake itself okay and the check valve is facing this way so if you suck on the end of this valve you should be able to pass air through here because there's going to be a vacuum pulling it through okay so that's the outlet going back into the take the clean vapors going back and intake the burned now the center one right here okay that one's going through same thing through your lines here and we are going over and we're getting all that dirty vapors and combustibles and oil and everything coming out of the passenger side valve cover going into the cans so we can catch all contaminants now the other source of vacuum under boost is this one right here and this one goes out and goes over and comes through right here you can see a line come up right here there's another check valve right here because these two are our different sources of vacuum at different times in different running conditions okay so this one right here again the arrow is pointing away it's pointing towards the vacuum source which in this case is the turbos themselves when they suck the air from the inlet side on the compressor wheel they actually create a vacuum so we can get a vacuum under boost that way and you can see it's tapped into that inlet pipe right there down below you come up we're teeing off we're doing a full evacuation and we're going over same thing on the driver's side go over here show you and we're going right down to that fitting we connected to earlier and that's the inlet for the pet for the driver's-side turbo sorry this one clips on we're able to use the factory snap to connect fitting on there now we're getting fresh air through this separator right here which is inside of here there are places your oil fill cap coming over nice curve to it ninety degree Bend and we're getting filtered air from the air filter housing right here okay now the last poor Indian know about is this one right here and they're putting just a regular vacuum cap over this what we're going to do is put that snap to connect back onto there it's got barb on the end of it then we're gonna put a section of hose and a pipe plug down there you can do it either way but this needs to be capped off in the end because this was the fresh air inlet but not reality it's coming from here now which goes down into the valve cover and provides the fresh air to come in what happens the PCV system in general is you have fresh filtered air coming in to one side of the engine it goes through the crankcase pulls all the garbage out comes up through the other side to defeat PCV valve and it will evacuate and be rotted right back into the intake so they burned what we're doing here is the same exact thing but we're giving it vacuum under boost and during idle situations so that helps out a lot plus the major thing we're doing is catching all that garbage in this can right here and it's condensing a side of your water vapors oil mist all that kind of stuff acids it's all being collected in here sleeping from down here and drain it out whatever it's full now the one last step on here is to put the nipple on here the barb fitting so you can put your tube on here so you can drain it out again make sure this is closed off just like this in during normal operation okay the reason why I'm putting the hose on there is because we're going to fish down through there or draining there's no room in here on this particular installation to get a jar in here and fill it up because this thing's going to hold a lot okay so you want to jar up good size so this way it'll just sit in here waiting for when you come up to drain it and then you stick it down through to your jar click the valve and you can drain it out you

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 1,745,225

Keywords: ford, f-150, how, to, repair, diy, Ford, Motor, Company, (Automobile, Company), ecoboost, misfire, coking, carbon, deposits, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

Id: v6h_FOzFMcs

Length: 34min 16sec (2056 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 16 2016