Flux Capacitor Valves

hey welcome back to this old tabletop i have to turn a bunch of these parts in fact they are way more complicated than this but this end looks like an automotive wealth has a long slender diameter a blend face then a diameter here that's all i'm going to show you but there are some this this looks reasonably simple but the diameter from here to here needs to be quite parallel the radius blend needs to be at least perfect same for the radius blend into the face here and to top it all off it's um 14401 stainless steel that's 316 stainless it machines reasonably nice it leaves a beautiful finish but it's quite hard on tools i start with a one meter stick 15 millimeter diameter and i part it off into individual bits which i can show you now parting off some 316 stainless 14401 for the iso world running at 250 to 300 rpm and i'm using the power cross feed at 30 micron per evolution using a two millimeter wide carbide parting insert i will talk about the insert and the holder later [Music] this is just for demonstration now i don't use the power cross feed to cut all the way through as the cutting speed gets lower the surface speed gets lower and lower the more we get to the center the cutting conditions get worse and worse and i prefer to cut the last bit by hand and i don't even cut all the way through i prefer to leave one millimeter of stock in diameter and just twist the remainer off these are the this is the parting tool i used to to part off the stock these are sold by garant this is a repatch they are made by somebody else and they use these two-sided two millimeter wide carbide inserts they have two cutting edges you can flip them around you can you can get normal parting inserts like this one this is just for going straight in you can get uh parting and turning those are quite cool you can go into the material then you can traverse sideways for example if you have to cut a white slot or do profiling on a cnc and you can get full radius inserts that have have the same radius as the width of the insert so this is two millimeter wide insert so it has a one millimeter radius these are nice for uh turning and leaving a radius in a corner or for cutting release grind release for example because the full radius doesn't leave a stress riser and yes this is just a nice system basically every tool manufacturer sells something like this [Music] no matter if it is car sandwich or somebody else i decided on this system because i can get it readily and next door delivered next day delivered to my door and when we look closely at those inserts they have a chip format geometry in front here i will zoom in in a second and that's to deform the chip and by doing that this is a two millimeter wide 1.99 or two millimeter wide parting blade and the chip this is a parting chip from from earlier and the chip is only 1.9 millimeter wide because the chip former geometry bends and deforms the chip it gets narrow and that way the chip doesn't snag up in the in the slot as easy and it just comes out there's a close-up of the chip forming geometry here it's this it's this divot here that goes up all the way to the cutting edge and when the chip flows in it gets bent in almost a u-shape you can see it has this roof shape and this this is what gets formed by this this divot here that's the magic behind those inserts and why they work then i used a braced carbide tool with a with a high positive geometry and a and a chip former to to rough it out like this and here in the shoulder in the corner of the shoulder i left quite a bit of material to form the radius and also this diameter here is still oversized by one millimeter this will be four millimeter in the end but now it's five millimeter and it has a tiny tiny center bore on the end so i can support it with a tail stock we're over at the lathe i'm putting the part in the sixth jaw and i'm clamping it and the run out out here is now not defined i put in the the center drill and turn the od in the same setup so if i indicate the od the center drill will match to it okay i'm using a two micron indicator to indicate the the outside end of the part and it's it's all over the place so this is an adjustable chuck and let's see we go to the low spot and we our l key to move the chuck on the back plate accordingly notice i i used i used the set screw the wrench to to move the set screw and the chuck into position and then i back it off like quarter of a turn and i do that so when i need to use the screw on the other side i'm not jamming up against this screw that's already way better than that's within 10 micron let's see if we can get a little bit closer okay that's well within two micron when i bring the test stock in now we shouldn't get any movement on the needle when when the tails when the when the live center goes into the center bore we use some putty to clean out the center bore just so there is nothing in it and to clean the center itself there is a little bit of discrepancy when you move the tail stock center up because the tailstock center itself had a run out error of course that kicked our part off by two to three microns here which is perfectly fine in this case and we don't want to give excess pressure on the tail stock hand wheel otherwise we buckle the part in the center i'm using two tools one is a braced carbide turning tool for the od the shoulder work and we touch off on the end of the part with it zero out and we do the same with our radius tool i will talk about the radius 2 later we start by turning a shoulder back here that needs to be 14 millimeter plus minus and i just re-lapped the tool so i have to calibrate my diameter according to the i touched off on the od of the stock and then i went into 14.8 millimeter and now we check what we get in reality yeah 14.77 we put that into our dro now we proceed to turn it down to 14.2 take a measurement and then take a final cut yeah the chip chip breaking with this tool is is a mess but i'm only removing very light very very very small amounts of material so i don't care too much okay 14.201 so my calibration is good i can i can move into 14 millimeters take my final cut there we go now we cut our shoulder here to length this this shoulder here has allowance here and here and one millimeter of allowance which in hindsight is a little bit much so and there we go now our shoulder length has only 0.2 millimeters of allowance left and we need that for to to cut the radius perfectly i could turn the od of the shaft and the shoulder and the radius and everything with the radius tool but the radius tool tends to have a little bit much cutting pressure and i'm worried that my diameter here could not be consistent so i'm using this the super sharp lapped with one micron diamond on a ceramic lap braced tool which has very little cutting pressure we're just working our way down to our final dimension okay i cut down most material and i will this this is hot to the touch now uh i will leave it let it cool down and take a measurement and then take my final final cuts okay i have my three millimeter radius tool in the tool post and it's already calibrated to to its diameter and i touched off on the end of the part here so when i move to my numbers i will automatically get my the correct dimensions as this is a form cutter and has a very large engagement we will run this very slow i put the machine in back gear basically running at between 55 and 100 rpm i can vary that with the vfd and now we will just slowly curve away the material stay away from the diameter and stay away from the shoulder as you can see i'm just moving in about one millimeter at a time and taking a plunge cut until i'm almost at the diameter of this shaft here this takes some time this is manual work this is not cnc to access interpolation this takes it's it's good old time especially if you film it okay we are really close for the blend but as you can see here is still a line we could polish that probably with with some emery cloth but we're not going to do that we're doing a proper blend here it would be nice to know how much of a step we have here so we can adjust nicely a good way to check a blend like this is of course a test indicator this happens to be a 2 micron indicator so we should get a nice result i zero it out on the on the actual shaft then i move over where the blend starts so this is like 20 28 30 microns step that's 60 micron in diameter that's what we have to take off to get to our proper to a proper blend without a significant step in here if we move further we go of course into the radius but right right behind the step uh the radius does not start yet and we can take a good reading so we have to take go in with the tool 30 micron so okay uh camera crapped out but i got my blend to my shaft diameter here very nicely i will check it with an indicator in a second but first we'll cut the shoulder here to final length and we use the carriage lock because a radius cutter puts quite a bit of of axial force onto onto the carriage once you move it away okay uh i hit it with a with a cratex stick and i'm checking again for the for the blend line i have my two micron indicator here originally good mounted and now when we look for the blend line yeah there it is that's somewhere in the one to two micron range of a step there starts to radius well that's pretty decent that's good enough okay and here again it is in focus you can see the nice nice radius here no sharp corners no edges no nothing just a really good blended radius that's all so now let's take a look at the tool i used to cut the radius okay here's the radius tool i was using this is a steel shank this is some low carbon steel and i silver soldered a piece of six millimeter round carbide into a pocket it's an it's at five degree angle in both directions to form the clearance angle and i will show you a picture how i made this here is a a grind wise setup at five degree in my big milling wise and the part itself is also tipped over five degrees in the other direction then i used a six millimeter carbide end mill to plunge the pocket for the carbide insert the carbide insert is just the shank of a six millimeter carbide end mill cut off with a diamond wheel and i use the diamond file to to scuff up all the to scuff up the surface where it's silver solders and i used some some black flux and some 30 silver silver solder and silver soldered the carbide into the steel shank and then i surface ground the top with a diamond wheel and held it up against my my slow speed carbide grinder for a final lap of the of the of the surface here as the diameter of the end mill the end mill shanks are very precisely cylindrical ground they need to be very precise because with modern shrink fit shrink fit holders the shank diameter and tolerance is very critical so that's a very good source to get very precise carbide round stock if you don't want to buy actual corvette stock and the roundness and surface finish helps us in making the radius cutter because we don't have to grind the radius ourselves and the quality of this radius is hard to achieve with any grinding tools that i have in my own shop so that's good and the only thing i have to grind is the top this gives us a very good radius cutter i use this technique a lot i made a lot of cutters this way and they always work very well they leave a very nice finish because due to the good quality grind on the od the cutting edge quality also gets very good if you if you take care and grind and lap the top surface well okay this is the turning tool that you saw earlier which i used to turn the shank of these flux capacitor valves and as you can see there's a piece of braced carbide and some ugly grinding and some lapping in front here and even finer lapping here here's silver solder joint and here's the multifix holder and when we zoom in now this is like i think this is about 10x magnification and we go up to 40 now wait a second until i get my brightness right and here's a close-up so this is the corner that does all the cutting this this corner and those two edges with the radius connected these are the cutting edges and you can see that there is some kind of of damage right here and that's abrasive wear on the on the top surface of the tool this is not a built up edge this is this is a hole in the carbide the the combination of heat and the chip moving by this is exactly the point where the chip rolls off and moves away from the cutting edge some minor damage on the cutting edge here and here this is the area that does most of the cutting work this removes most of the material i use this tool with about 0.2 0.1 millimeter depth of cut and this is about a 50 micron corner radius here so it matches up quite nicely but the area that does all the finish of the surface this here this the transition from the radius to the back clearance here that's still in an okay shape i can't get this in and very good focus through the camera it was quite ugly and over here uh we have a different type of a problem here this is actually built up edge uh this is where material yeah here you can see i just snapped the piece off of this build-up edge off duke uh i crushed the tool early into the material and some of the material welded onto this edge here so that that's different kind of of cutting edge damage a built-up edge is not exactly a damage yet in fact in some in some cutting conditions a built-up edge is even desired because it can protect your actual cutting edge it's almost like a blade of armor for your cutting edge this this abrasive wear on the top of the of the cutter that's where the chip rolls off it's also not directly a problem once this damage gets so large that it it intersects with the cutting edges then it's a problem and i will take this tool to the diamond lab and i will lap this top surface down until this is gone but just to give you an idea a microscope is just a super useful tool and with naked eye you almost do not see this uh this damages it's almost invisible i can show you in a second through the camera so you can hardly tell that there is this tiny tiny abraded area here on this cutting edge yeah the the top grind here looks but ugly but you can see here by the reflection uh that is left also here on the on the side it's ground with a d125 diamond wheel and then up here only this area here is lapped on the diamond lab because this down here is just clearance and doesn't need to be lapped it's it's way faster if you do it just in the areas you need so that's some cutting edge damage uh okay you just saw me facing this flux capacitor valve to length and the recording was a bit tricky to figure out as you can see it has a very long shank but only a very short large diameter and then if i was going to hold on to this on this diameter here of a collet um the rigidity out here would be rather bad so i decided to hold it on the large diameter but when you hold something with that little engagement and i call it the alignment like this this is very tough to do so i decided to make a guide bushing there it is this is a piece of this is a piece of stainless drilled and board to match the diameter of these wells very precisely then i slid it four times with a slitting saw and took a grooving tool and almost cut all the way through so it's springy can compress all this diameter back here is relieved only this diameter in front here you can see the step i guess match matches the diameter off of the valve here so basically this this th this part here sits in the collet then you slide in the part into the support sleeve and when the collet grabs now it will compress this guide sleeve clamp on the shank and the collet will also clamp on this large diameter and this allows for very good alignment onto the rotational axis but also a very rigid setup because it's supported out of the way from from the part i could also have board a take me an emergency collet or a four millimeter collet in fact that matches this diameter and bore it in front uh to hold this large diameter and this smaller diameter but i figured why waste an emergency collet if if this method here will work just as fine you

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 32,662

Rating: 4.9764075 out of 5

Keywords: Stainless steel, edelstahl, rostfrei, ventile, fluxkompensator, flux capacitor, formmeissel, formdrehstahl, radiusdrehmeissel, form tool, formtool, lathe, super 11, emco super 11

Id: t5c5zDjp8SE

Length: 32min 46sec (1966 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 04 2020