Walter UTA80 dividing head

[Music] hey welcome back to this old whiting hat I was looking for one of these for quite some time now this is a Walther 80 millimeter sent the height dividing head the type is UTA 80 alias sender height and UTA stands for universal tool dividing head it can do direct indexing we are this I think this is a 24 whole plate I can be used here with this plunger you spin it and then you engage this in its its index can do indexing the warm gear as as you as usual with an index plate and this one also has the external drive train or the expedia the PTO shaft to to drive the indexing disc that's used for two purposes one differential indexing which I miss the accessories which is a banjo with change gears but it can also be used for a spiral milling it's then it's driven by the table power power feed of the mill I miss those accessories too but mainly I wanted this thing to be as a normal dividing head not true if I ever need to do spiral milling or differential indexing but still this is very nice that you can position the index plate even with the pin engaged like this and that allows you to zero out your two index apart to zero with the pin engaged which are my import rotary table with the next plate is not possible as an added benefit it's heavy as can be it's about 25 kilograms so it's really heavy bugger this is the smallest one of these they made them up to its root 320 millimeters hike between table and center of spindles so the larger ones really are heavy you need a crane to move them I looked at at one point at a 125 millimeter one of these and it's about double the size it's it's ridiculous large the cool thing is when you loosen these two nuts back here this can go out all the way to 90 degrees it's a little it's all very sticky I already host it down with wd-40 to make it moving but I definitely have to take it apart and clean it thoroughly it also came with with the original Walter sweet child chuck the hundred millimeter chuck with the integral with a back plate that fits the spindle nose of this dividing head internal tape is most cheapest free and the external taper is a short taper with with facial contact like like on a cam lock spindle the same taper seven seven degrees seven seconds and snow 7 7 degrees 7 minutes and something-something seconds same taper as on my leaf just smaller but I have an idea for that I'm going to make an adapter plate that matches this taper and the face contact and has the male taper of my life on the other end so I can take my life Chuck's off the lathe and put it on here without losing without having to park the part be ari dialed in also that allows me to use the sixth child Chuck my 5c collet Chuck myself jaw Chuck and the magnetic Chuck if I need to which will be cool so I'm going to make an adapter but that's a little more work because I have to do some engineering to to figure out how it fits this it's dividing head and how the the whole pattern will match up I want to make it as low profile as possible of course because any additional overhang will make it less stiff I'm not sure about bearing arrangement some of these dividing heads have had a large conical plane bearing and some have needle bearings for the main bearings front here the back I think is always a tapered roller bearing but we will see that we take it apart so yeah let's begin I think I'm going I'm starting to take off all the small parts I can be lost or broken otherwise it's next index pin and and hand-crank and here's the spring spring steel spring for the fector arms then we can take off these three screws to remove the index plate it came only with this index plate I will see if I can get the other ones a shop on ebay all the time but I have to see for the right size and hole count okay so far this thing goes apart quite nice okay here it is this is the law the split lock for for the mounting point off the index plate which is connected to the to the PTO shaft back there for spiral milling yeah of course it's not a PTO shaft just joking we have some rust in there not nothing nothing really terrible so far that's a very long screw oh yeah that's a mad tight fit widgets which it needs to be to remain precision when you adjust it and there is this clamping color this has some rust on it I think I will pull off this whole housing here next this should come off to the side it's pulled it on with a number of screws and also pinned on screws that you're uncertain if they are screwed in like crazy do not use a ball and elm key the the ball can break off and get stuck in the hole which is really a pain to get out okay let's see if just comes off probably not give it a oh there it goes of course it's stuck on the doll pin over here as usual if I remove this piece here which clamps the dividing head for for the angular alignment I probably can can remove it easier it screw it from the bottom and front position to adjust it you only have to loosen the front one there's a lot of oil coming out and I hope this doesn't end in the Exxon weld s situation here already it is to come off yeah there it is that's the the clamping element our nice machine and the inside and this here is ground and there is the smell of old oil oh there it comes there it is whoops okay we have a gear oh well we have a number of gears in here already you have a warranty er here or a screw gear sorry screw gear is 92 each other and we have a that's odd that's a conical spur gear I'm not sure if I ever have seen that before so quite sometime later now I took all a part of camera it's that it just takes too long with the camera in the way got it all out inspected all the parts they were all looking very good it was used indeed but not really bad interesting design feature that's spindle with the short taper mount for the Chuck here and it has two tapered seats here and here it holds spinless coordinate ground these two tapered seats are the plane bearings and the mating taper is this board machined and scraped to match here in the housing it has the rear taper and front taper and this is a little bit like the harding 5c quick indexers those have also a large tapered bearing plane bearing and when you lock them the spindle gets pushed on the taper at the locking taper and then it's metal to metal contact and it's not going to move same same deal with this dividing head here there's the lock when there is a lever coming in from the side and when actuated this comes out and down and pulls the whole spindle by a tiny tiny amount back and into the taper and seats it it's seated it's locked and that's a that's a very very nice design I expect very very much rigidity once the thing is locked and doesn't go anywhere the casting cleaned up nicely the paint looks ok I'm definitely not going to repaint this what artists either this has been repainted because there are some some green on here some Reseda green at all 6011 but I don't think this thing is repainted it's it's done too good either the the undercoat they have is this ugly green or they all are painted in the screen and then a spur customer request or painted in this and this hammer gray another another thing that shows me that this is not a repaint that because none of the circ fittings or oil fittings here are all the paint that the the plaques here are not over painted like a graduation here is not painted so it's probably a factory job or a very good second hand repaint the rusty engraving here cleaned up very nicely with a crate X rubber stick and some wd-40 cleaned up really nice I didn't do anything to these large round bearing surfaces those are now only some discoloration from sitting so long with oil it's okay the bearing surface is look also the scraping is fully intact so this is the warm assembly I pulled this it didn't pull this apart that there is nothing in it there are two bronze bearings in the warm that's hard and ground and you can adjust the end play here with with the fine thread the end play of this here yeah it currently it's a lot because it's not assembled I just cleaned this the cradle where this goes in looks looks very good scraping is I'm not sure if this is this is a factory scraping job I doubt it and at one point I definitely will scrape this but for now I will just reassembly and use it I need to learn in ins and out of this dividing head first which I basically did now by pulling it completely apart okay get it back together so it moves nicely and it also locks very nicely I repaired or replaced the 14 millimeter m8 nuts with modern m8 13 millimeter and this does this doesn't move just this clamping area here is so large it's not going to move this is basically like a long lever with the point over here and after fix point here and we're strapping this over the hole half the diameter of the part and there's a tremendous solid way to lock something that's rotating and if you open both you can move it here is the spindle and here is the massive bronze warm gear and the way the skier is fixed to spend us quite interesting it's fixed with set screws which is normally not a very very good way to do this they work loose over time but they have done it properly seriously properly they have two screws that come in from the side it's showed that way they come in from the side almost tangential to the diameter of the of the part of the spindle here and it has two flats machined on here where it basically clamps on and it's really pinching the section of the spindle that way it also doesn't disturb the diameter of the spindle which is quite it's good to sign then they have two angles it goes in this way and they have two angled screws and those press up against those angled pockets here and over here this pushes the warm gear up against the shoulder that should in theory be a very very rigid situation a little bit hard to mount because you have to tighten the screws inside the housing of the dividing head so that's gonna be a lot of cussing the dividing head came only with this one dividing plate didn't get any additional ones with it and this one is even a specialized one the number of holes on this plate this is a special accessory the plate that came with the dividing head was a had more useful whole numbers on it this one had to be ordered separately if you had to do odd number I have to look up which one which divisions this one was four but not very general use so I looked on eBay I looked for Walter index plates but I couldn't find plates in in good condition or even plates at all so I ordered two hot rolled mild steel plates slightly thicker and a little bit oversized and I'm going to make two blanks for dividing plates and one will get drilled already I will keep one spare for whatever just in reserve but one will get drilled [Music] I really like Dorota brooch for large diameter holes and not too thick material they cut quick and do not exceed as much load on the machine as a similar sized twist drill would [Music] [Music] [Applause] okay you saw me prepping the plates turning the I do t and two faces and they're done at first I wanted to drill them on my CNC on the step more CNC router which is reasonably Richard and would be able to drill this without a problem but I want to make this this index plate once and I want to make it properly so the the CNC doesn't precision in XY dead accurate so if you go around in a circle and you drill a hole hole hole both hold circle you will get XY deviations that means you get a when you use this plate later for indexing you get an indexing error it's 40 times less on the actual part and your error on here but it's still an error and if I can reduce my errors from the beginning I will end up with a better part in the end I hear often Burke only as precise as needed and as sloppy as possible but in my mind that's not matters other BS if you want to make precision parts you have to start properly you have to do everything proper and we're doing just proper here so I put the more more precision rotary table on my mill and I'm going to drill this the old-fashioned way using vernier scale on the rotary table the rotary table is six arc seconds error which is a few microns over distance of a meter that's okay so I want to drill I need 12 15 16 17 19 21 23 and 27 holes whole circles on on the index plate so I made the spreadsheet and Libra caulk which is like excellent Excel just open source and free and I had it calculate the the steps for each hole in in degree of angle are commitments and arc seconds on twelve twelve divisions it's of course only full degree increments 30 60 90 120 but when you go to something like 27 holes you get or 23 is a very odd one you get 15 degree 39 arc minutes and 8.8 arc seconds and we will use this sheet here to drill all the holes I'm going to use a stop length carbide drill to drill the holes in a perfect world I would bore each hole I would use or or use an end reamer both and reamer and boring and boring head will not follow the existing hole but they create they cut true to the spindle of the machine the hole which a normal Rhema doesn't do a normal reamer will follow whatever you drilled within limitations got the more detail here in a mill and I bolted an aluminum sub plate to it using using just screws and T nuts and drum tapped the Center for an m8 nut and bolt of the index plates to this aluminium plate so I'm off off the I'm off the table and I can drill through I have the part centered on the rotary table and I have my spindle of the mill centered over the part and yes of course this rotary table is orders of magnitude more precise than this whole milling machine but for what I'm doing I can still use the advantages of the precision of this rotary table the only two things the mill has to do is to step over to the desired radius which which doesn't have to be crazy precise it will be relatively precise because the linear scales and at the gyro and the drilling the drilling is okay the the quill on this machine is very tight than the spindle runs were very true but the the actual dividing precision of the index plate will all be from this indexing head or from this rotary table as you can see I do not have index plates for this move rotate there ver and next place the Weibull for it but I do not have to set up for them but it has this beautiful large dial and vernier to set set your angles okay this is the dial and the vernier of the rotary table down here the dial the numbers are in the in arcminutes it goes from zero to sixty or zero and then it starts over so each time you go from zero to zero that's one degree on the on the rotation of the rotary table itself these are full arc minutes the longer lines and the rotor lines in between net thirty arc seconds that's half a hour comminute and combined with the zero to thirty vernier up here we can read down to one arc second with this thing which is pretty crazy which is more precise than rotary tables itself aspect for early two rotary table itself respect for a thing six arc seconds all this is pretty crazy but this will help me to to make those index plates so very high degree and a new hand crank this this thing the problem on this rotary table is that the warm and warm gear are matched and you cannot disengage the warm from the warm gear to freely rotate the faceplate so to rotate your workpiece to dial it into the center you have to hand crank it which takes quite some time on a more cheap or you could use the spindle to index the part you you would Center up on on the rotary table and then put your part on and then use the spindle to sweep your part and located on a normal milling machine that's not as precise because it's just a meal or in this case a Chinese mill but I still used this technique to get it pretty darn close I got it within twenty thirty microns that way then I hand cranked it a few times 360 degree all the way around to get it that perfect and now it's time to put my favorite audio book on and drill about 160 holes here we go we start here and then March our way around first first one is 12 volts which is pretty easy because it's a 30 degree increment no weird things happening there so let's go I decided to go with a stop length coded high speed steel drill with a perfect new factory grind run that's 3000 rpm so the problem with drilling index plates you don't want to do an increment you don't want to move 15:39 arcminute 8.8 arcseconds then reseal your dial and go from there each time you will add up your error like crazy and it will not match up in the end you want to do an absolute this is what we call an in CNC programming ax absolute dimensioning we start at zero we start we go for 15 then 31 and all the stuff behind then 46 62 and we march our way through that way and that way we have maybe an individual error each one of them has a small error on the last few numbers but the important thing is we don't add the error up which we don't want cuz we're creating a master plate here and another thing each time I'm dialed in a certain number I will cross it off so I do not get any crazy results here well let's begin I set the correct radius table is locked my dial is on zero let's go cutting oil call it trucks usually work best if you tighten them down [Music] next 60 degree there we go and now we line up the zero with the zero and as precise as we can I drilled the first four whole circles and now I'm drilling the 19 whole circle I already drilled the 360 or SERO degree hole and now I have to dial in 18 degrees 56 arc minutes and 51 arc seconds in this case 52 because we round up in this case so let's see how we have to dial this in we are at zero here and also zero over at dial we unlock the table and we crank it to 18 degrees that's easy just go 10 15 18 okay zero is zero so we're exactly at 18 degrees now we need 56 arc minutes 50 55 56 and now we need 52 arc seconds for that we have to go half an arc minute which are 30 arc seconds then we have to add 22 arc seconds which is over here right here and now we just have to line up this is 22 and now we just have to look to line up the next possible line with the 22 mark and this one here and there we go that's 52 Lockett it had a little bit of backlash so you have to keep in mind to work in one direction okay I drilled all the holes after stub length drill and this would probably be way good enough hurt I checked some of the holes and of the shortstop length grille the hole position to the spindle of the mill was within 10 microns usually when I spun an indicator in the freshly drilled hole but if something is worth doing it it's also worth overdoing it so I'm using a tapered single flute cutter that's right here in the spin like round this on the D bit grinder it's basically a conical engraving bit with about 20 degrees back rake and then taper angle that is slightly smaller and index pin of the index head and I'm boring all the holes to about half the depth with the tapered D bit and this ensures perfect concentricity to suspend love the mill because a D bit just like an end mill will not follow the pre-drilled hole it will cut its own way I couldn't cut with this into solid because it has no front cutting edges it only cuts on the diameter and due to being clinical networks and now I'm going all the way around and I Rhema Sheen each one of the holes to be a taper seat for the pin the angle of the taper in here is slightly smaller than the angle of the pin on the index so it only hits on top otherwise you would get a situation like a more steeper and the pin would lock up in each hole each time you use it here you can see grilled hole only drilled without power feet so finish is okayish not perfect but it's okay and over here is a taper reamed hole with the D bit and you can see there is a shiny band that's tapering down and this this is what's giving me a final precision of this index plate here we can see the tapered reamer that I'm using this is ground out of an old end mill carbide end mill just growing half ground the taper off an included angle of 9 degrees on to it and ground the back rake of 20 degrees onto it and that's working surprisingly well you can't run it to crazy fast otherwise it will chatter I'm running it at 580 rpm and lots of cutting oil so let's do a few holes on camera works like a charm here you can see the chips I give it some dwell time and at the bottom of the hole so it really cleans up the hole I'm running against the heart depths top of the quill [Music] okay got all the holes drilled and board with the single point taper D bit all holes are finished all went well that thing to do is to drill the three holes to mount the plate on to the dividing head I could do this using the rotary table but that's a lot of hand cranking for three bolt holes so I'm using the the bolt hole circle function of the Dro and I'm moving to the hole position using the XY table of the mill I think I have to change the setup a little but I have to add two strapped clamps and remove the central screw because I'm interfering with the watch this big washer here okay I had a to strap clamps and now I can remove the central bolt so I can grill and count to sync the mounting holes okay kept the eunuchs played off the mill and test fitted it to the indexing head here looks beautiful just to compare this to original one that's D that's mine the index pin fits into the the tapered holes beautifully and does not lock up I will have to plate plasma core board and I tried it usually when you use the indexing head yeah some people let the pin slide over the surface into the next hole and that messes up the edge of the holes and damages them over time and you put material into the hole and that moves your index position over by a tiny amount that just not necessary so we will have this hardened after i F tie that all the deeper and cleaned up everything and engrave the number for the bolt hole circles I completely forgot that I need the numbers on here otherwise you're counting a lot yeah this is the the lock for the index plate allowed to spin freely that's especially useful if you want to align your work with in relation to the indexing that's important my simple Chinese indexing hat Kent or rotary table with indexing plates can't do that that's also used for differential indexing where drive the index plate we have the driveshaft back here of the indexing spindle together with the manual indexing lookup compound compound indexing it's it's explained in in most machinist handbooks so yeah get this plate off engrave it the bird completely get ready for plasma treatment off camera already prepared this adapter here this goes on to the number two short keeper of the dividing head and as a number three short taper out here and this allows me to use all my chucks from the lathe right here on this dividing head it's currently machined out of soft c-45 steel but I will have it plus my cabron I tried it which makes it hard and does not alter the dimensions it's a little bit fiddly to get chucks on because there is very little space here for for the knots but it's it's better than having a full set of additional chucks just for the dividing end which is in my mind not a not a brilliant idea and I want to be able to use for example a six jaw chuck of my life which is an adjustable chuck on here yeah I didn't show the the machining of this thing it's it's pretty straightforward except for the two tapers and even those are not as critical it's all machined from one piece machine from both sides cut the taper and I left and I cut the taper in a way that when I put the other piece on here it makes contact on the face first and the taper has a little bit of side-to-side play then I put it on the surface grinder and I ground the flat on both sides down until the taper on each side had hit the taper first and had about 0.01 millimeters of gap between the face so when you tighten the bolts and and the Chuck with the taper mount goes on here it hits the taper then you pull it down and the this shrinks and the other part goes little bit bigger because everything is made out of rubber and then it makes full facial contact and then it's a very rigid mount for light duty work I definitely can put the dividing head in the vise and hold it that way also that way I get an insane amount of Center height if I have to machine for example a large gear that way I have about 150 millimeter Center height but holding it and wise does not help with rigidity that's sure this is not as rigid as if it was bolted to the table and also I'm limited in a length that I can machine because I have the Wyss usually in the center of the table slightly to the left but still with the overhang that doesn't leave much travel out here maybe maybe that much but in a lot of cases when you machine large disks for example that's okay what I lose is height above the part when I use when I tilt the spindle then then my c height of the mill gets very very small in a hurry but it's possibility it's it's all about possibilities this is a very quick very fast setup it looks like a lot of overhang but keep in mind it's compared to the lathe even a little bit less overhang to the front bearing on the on the lathe that the spindle sticks out a little bit more before the flange so I'm not too worried about this the front taper bearing here once locked this crazy rigid it feel it it really makes a I'm not worried let's let's phrase it that way I kept us a small pin here in the Chuck and I'm going to use an indicator to check the deflection against pressure this is a two micron per division Tesla indicator and going to put as much pressure on to the end of the truck with my thumb that I can and I barely can move it ten microns maybe maybe 12 that's a little bit more than on my life probably because of the bolted connection between the adapter and the spindle of the dividing head but I'm I'm very confident that this is rigid enough to do it to do reasonable machining are out here in terraces widening head mounted off to the side with large chucks I can't the Wyss interferes but if I have to use down angle that works otherwise I have to pull the vice of the middle would you prefer not to do and I can always which is also an opportunity use tooling that goes into the more steeper sorry socket I have a ton of more stable to toolings I'm going to get me a good quality reduction sleeve mt2 to mp3 so I can use for example my my small diameter call it's directly in the spindle of that one yet so I think that's it for for now I'm talking now for way too long about this avoiding yet I hope you enjoyed hope the the minimal machining content I showed was interesting thank you all for watching it see you next time [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 69,657

Rating: 4.9716816 out of 5

Keywords: walter, teilkopf, uta80, dividing head, index head, moore, rotary table, rundtisch, teilscheibe, index disc, optimum mb4

Id: xXNsR9X1XQk

Length: 46min 50sec (2810 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 01 2019