FlashForge Creator Max - Dual Extruder 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

hey guys today we got a pretty special video because we have a flashforge creator max now what makes this printer quite interesting is that it has a dual hot end setup where it can print two different colors or materials at the same time with two different nozzles so this should be quite interesting hopefully you enjoyed the video let's get started [Music] [Music] um [Music] all right so i've done a few videos with flashforge printers and they definitely build really nice mostly completely assembled printers where it's pretty much ready to go out of the box so we can see the box that it comes in it's quite large what it's called creator max the weight 21.5 kilograms this is the size here in millimeters so let's go ahead and lay it down on the side you guys can see the blue tape that flashforge uses if it's ever been opened you will know all right so let's go ahead and cut the tape up so as we open the box we have a little packet here of a few things like our manual extra bed stickers and our sd card we'll check this out a little closer in a second so they're using a hard type styrofoam so there are two tubes and these look like they're for the filament guide tubes since this is a dual extruder setup we have two of them now every time i open a box i keep thinking that maybe i'm doing it the wrong way because i always open the top which is good because you know you get to your manual and whatnot else that's important but it seems like it would be better to open the back to have the printer right side up but in any case tip this thing over and raise the box up and sure enough our printer is upside down and the other piece of styrofoam is left in the box so no big deal really but you could open it from the bottom and it'd probably be a little easier to deal with let's go ahead and flip it one more time and we'll take the top foam off and as we can see it's completely plastic wrap all right so we do have a door here in the front and it is magnetized there's shrink wrap over this and we can see there's more things in here i can see that there's another clear acrylic cap and we also have a bunch of stuff up here all right so let's start from the top we have a connection here to our hot head assemblies so i guess we will have to connect this so we have a styrofoam insert that comes out so it looks like these are our spool holders and there are two of them for dual feeding and then over here looks like we have all our wiring and also other pieces all right so let's go back down and get these other pieces out so it looks like this whole piece just comes out the front there's a styrofoam with a full spool of red pla filament very cool that they include a whole spool of it and this is our top cover that'll go on the very top and we have little cutouts here for the tubing to go through and on the top face of it we have a flash forged sticker pretty nice high quality one that looks pretty cool all right so we have a little bit more foam inside there's one here in the back by the lead screw so now we can go ahead and pull the bed up and when we do that we can go ahead and pull our styrofoam out the bottom maybe you need to go up a little more all right and so now that everything's out we can kind of see the printer a little better of what it looks like there's little wires here tuck those down for now so for the next part we need to look at the manual and see how it all goes together but before we do that let's take a look at what it comes with so we get a power cord a usb cable to connect from the printer to the computer a bracket of some sort i guess it's not a bracket it's a parts cooling fan duct i guess we'll have to install that and it comes a few little bolts we also get a little baggie of tools some grease a wrench and an extra knob and some short ptfe tubings so here we have the manual there's a 16 gig sd card that's branded scan disk we also get two extra build surfaces for our bed very nice that they include this here we have a thing called special sheet and this is just for bed leveling to the nozzles and it's just the right size to go between the two nozzles to do spacing and here we have the user's manual but it is black and white shows us all of the parts that are included an overview of the printer and what everything is the system here unpacking the printer and here we have hardware assembly so there's really no step by step it just kind of shows you how to use everything so i guess the hardware assembly is our instructions here of how to get this thing together all right so looking on top here the first thing we're going to do is we're going to grab our hot end assembly if you guys can see there's two threaded holes that'll line up with these holes and so what we're gonna do is we're gonna simply set the whole thing over and it's gonna line up and the little baggie with the fan duct is gonna have the bolts we need and so there's two longer bolts and one short one the two longer bolts are going to go underneath through our bracket into the hot end assembly so let's go ahead and grab our allen wrench out of this bag all right so we started one and the other and we can go ahead and snug them up real good and you don't want to go too crazy tight because this is plastic all right and that should make this really solid it feels really good so the next part of our manual it says we need to remove our fan so we can install the fan duct into it so here we have our fan and it's actually quite a large fan let's go ahead and undo it so that just comes right off now we can grab our fan duct and connect it to the fan just like that and so now it's all going to go back together we can see the two bolts that will go back into the fan and then the third little bolt which came with the duct will go into here all right until all three of them are tight now before you tighten these up leave them loose so this can move around because this little fan duct has to click in a certain place down there before it seats right so tighten the main fan last and so this is this step here here you can see how the bolts go so for the next part let's install our spool holders so if we look at here at the back of the printer we can see that there's two slots and those are going to accommodate our spool holders so we're simply just going to insert it into the slot and then go down so nothing too complicated here very simple actually and that's what they look like so they do move around a bit but that doesn't really technically matter so and i am noticing that these are quite a bit more narrower than a typical spool like this one here if i put it on it doesn't go all the way in there that's kind of interesting and so for the last step we just need to install our guide tubes and that's these two we saw in the beginning so they simply click into these grooves here just like that go ahead and do this other one so our filament will go out into the tube and then the other end will go into the extruder so the one on the right will go to the right side and then on the left on the left side now we do still have this top let's go ahead and try that out so you should just go right over these tubes and there's these four corners on each side the top goes into and that is to i guess preserve the heat from coming out but because there's cutouts in the back i'm not sure how that is effective but in any case i guess to make this a more of a enclosed printer they do have this top here and when you're printing higher temperature filaments every little bit of heat helps all right so let's take a closer look at this printer so here on the top we can see what it looks like we have the cover a nice logo power tubing and wiring comes out the back so we do have a dual hot end with two extruders and i guess two of everything and including two separate nozzles there on the bottom so there is only one cooling duct for the nozzle on the left and the one on the right doesn't seem to have one and so the way the axises work is you got rails that it slides on same thing for the z axis two rod rails so here we have our x axis motor and our y axis motor is back there and it has a belt that goes to the top that connects to these brackets on each side and that runs the y-axis maybe you guys can see the belt moving so our x-axis switch is there our y-axis is in that corner and our x-axis is right there so here we have the build plate and it is a pretty decent print size not large but definitely reasonable for most prints and the build platform does not appear to be removable so it's stationary but the build plate is heated we can see the plugs underneath and it adjusts on three pivot points so another thing that's kind of interesting is the wiring that's going to the bed it's just kind of open air here i'm going to tuck them back into the inside there so they're not dangling around everywhere and i feel like they should have put maybe some kind of shroud or protection around them any case maybe that's not a concern so yeah we have two walls on each side and the walls are all plastic including the back one but there is a steel frame on all the corners of the printer so as we go out we can see we have this nice clear acrylic door and it is magnetized on the left side on the front of the printer we have the logo it says creator max and here we have our touch screen go ahead and pull this protector off and on the bottom of the printer we have rubber feet all around the four corners so if we go to the right side of the printer here we can see this is where we're going to plug in our usb cable to the computer and also our sd slot is here and it is a full size sd card so that's really nice to see and over here it looks like we have a little reset button so on the left side there's nothing much going on here we do have these really nice handles where we can lift the printer on both sides and on the top here this piece is metal and it's part of the metal frame so here we can see what the back looks like so we have the wires and the tubes coming out so the wire goes into this middle channel and the tubes clip right here on both sides which point here towards the spool holder so our filament will go into here and then into the extruders so the back is quite clean overall here we have a manufacturing label and below that this is where we're going to plug in our power cord and this is our power switch all right so let's go ahead and plug this cord in and it is quite a thick cord so i'm going to hit the power button and we can see the logo here come up and our printer boots up now the first thing i'm noticing that there is a light inside and you guys can see it turned on that's really nice so on the touch screen here we can see that this is our print button preheat button and tools so this is going to read our sd card and by the way it does have internal memory this is our preheat button so let's click that so we can see it's 230 on both nozzles and 100 on the platform so that seems a little hot for the platform let's just make it 70 for now and click start and it should start heating up and we actually have a little graph here showing the progress of each one so it looks like our nozzles are heating but our platform is not and i'm guessing once these are hot the platform will start heating all right so we're going to let that heat and go back so let's check out these tools so we have filament level home manual setting setup and a belt so filament is going to be using our extruder and you can see there's both of them there's the left and the right that's leveling the bed which we'll be doing next and we also need to hit this home button to make sure all of our axes work manual button is going to give us access to moving everything independently and we have a settings here here we can choose our language and i think that's touch screen adjustment factory reset fan on wi-fi and pulley so i'm not going to mess with any of this but if you wanted to use wi-fi they do have that option here too so here we have the status of the printer and a belt here we have the name of the machine the firmware the print volume which is 227 by 148x150 the amount of usage this printer had which is three hours which is interesting because i just turned it on must be factory testing and tool count two which is the two nozzles all right so that's pretty much it so i'm gonna go ahead and click the home button and let's see if all of our switches work so our x works our y works and our z works so for the next part let's level the bed but before we do that we need to run these knobs down a bit that way we can press the build plate and make sure our nozzle is not going to hit the platform as we start the level so i'm going to hit the level button and it's going to move into position and we're going to grab our special sheet and use it to level the bed so we can see here that it's way too loose so i'm going to so i'm going to raise it up by loosening the knob so right when we get a little drag i'm also going to check them individually they seem to be about both equal so that's a good sign then on the screen here we're going to click next and it's going to go to the next point and we're going to do the same thing down there all right so that feels pretty good click next and by the way guys you're going to need to do this quite a few times because it's not going to be perfect the first time the more you adjust it it changes angles everywhere on each side so like right now this is a little tight so we need to go down a bit all right that feels good click next and go straight to the middle and the middle is a little tight also and now we're going to click finish but i'm going to go ahead and do this process at least three or four maybe even five times to make sure my bed is ultra level because it's quite important that it's level because if you don't get it right you're gonna have trouble when starting putting down your prints so whenever preheating the nozzles i realize that there's a toggle switch here for on and off and the platform was actually off so if we turn it back on and click start we can see that our platform comes in and it's showing the temperature of it right now so i started preheating it earlier i realized that it was just a toggle so so that's kind of good that you can individually choose what you want to preheat or not so let's say if you weren't going to use both of the nozzles you technically don't need to preheat both of them so all right guys so i think i got my build platform pretty level so let's go ahead and grab this sd card and plug it into the side of the printer and then we'll go to print here we can see that it sees our sd card and looks like we do have some files on there okay so here i see it says test files click on that looks like we have a few little things we can print so we have a little model for abs pla and also a dual color cube here all right cool so let's start with pla first and we'll see how that goes and then we'll go to the multi-color and also we'll try out some abs printing in this machine but before we can print anything we need to get our filament into the printer it looks very nice now flash force usually special spools that has a very narrow middle and that's purposely for fitting on their spool holders so we want to cut the filament on an angle so it feeds through easier but yeah the spool will just literally flip into here and it literally perfectly fits in here the only thing that doesn't make any sense honestly is you know the way this filament goes there it's kind of way too close to this spool now we can pull this up a bit and even more technically if we wanted to all the way up here to make it where it has a little better route honestly i wish they would design this a little different maybe go lower or something else but in any case it doesn't go into tubing and i'm using this tube here because this is the side with the fan deck and i'm guessing this is the extruder that we're using for the single filament printing so i'm going to go ahead and push it all the way through until i hit something all right so it looks like there's some resistance but yeah this is how the filament goes on the back i do have a smaller spool that could go here maybe well okay yeah so it does fit in here perfectly later when we print our little cube we can use this white here as our second color so i'm just going to leave it there until we're ready to print so here's where the complexities start to begin now because we have to get to our extruder we can't really do it through here anyhow so we need to take this cover back off so it does come off quite easy but now you probably don't even want to put this cover on unless you're really printing abs or whatever other filaments that require more heat so we're just going to leave the cover off for now and this is the tube that has the red filament in and we can see the end of it right there so all we got to do is take it out and then we're going to manually feed it in there now there's a little lever here on the extruder and if you push down on it you should be able to get passed through it into the teeth and that will grab it so once it grabs it we can put the tubing back in all right so now we're going to hit on tools and then filament here we can see left load and unload so we're going to click a load left and that's going to start up the extruder and we can see the filament is pumping out of there so i'm going to go ahead and click on done and that stops it and that's how we purge the nozzle so let's go ahead and go back to our sd card go to test files and start this pla print here so once we click on it we can see we have a few options we can copy delete or print now if you click copy it's going to put it into the printer that way you don't have to use it off of the sd card but since we have this d card in it you just print it from there so just click print and there it goes so the printer is starting so it's heating up the nozzle to 225 all right and there it goes well let's hope everything's going to be good with our level and it appears to be okay i think yeah so far it looks good actually it's probably a little hard for you guys to see because of that light from the top it's kind of over exposing everything but it looks like we started and everything looks good but i'm gonna bring out my microphone so you guys can hear the printer it does have stepper sound noises so it's not silent you can definitely hear the motors running and obviously some fan noise also so yeah it looks like it's boogieing away so i went ahead and unplugged the little light that's on the top here and we can see a little better of how our print is looking like so let's take a closer look at our screen so on the top we have the file name the printing time which is 12 minutes the left extruder which is at 220. the right extruder which is at idle and then our build platform as 50c here we have a progress bar which is at zero and on the bottom we have hot buttons stop pause and some more settings let's click on the settings we click that we can see the only option we have is to change filament so if you wanted to change your filament in the middle of the print you can do that but that's pretty much it so you can't adjust anything else everything has to be pre-adjusted in the slicer and there is no option of turning the light on and off so for some reason you didn't want it like right now i don't because i'm filming all you do is just unplug it and it's right behind this channel here so all right so i'm just gonna let this thing print and we'll see what it prints out all right guys so our first print is done and it took one hour and 26 minutes so the bed cooled off pretty much let's see if we can pop this thing off so yeah it's not going to come off that easy so having a little spatula kind of like this would definitely help out kind of surprised they didn't include one let's go ahead and see if we can take it off now all right so yeah so yeah it comes off pretty easy once you get it going and there we go so it did print on our raft and it's not coming off at all so i guess those settings were not done right but in any case let's go ahead and look at the model so we can see some vibrations here so this is our y-axis and this is our x-axis so we can see our x-axis looks quite a bit smoother than our y so here's the other side of the x a little bit smoother but not bad on the y either and here at the round part all the layers are sitting pretty good this does look like it's printed at 0.2 layer height so overall looks pretty good and our top looks good too so as far as the print structure overall it looks quite good and feels very strong so not a bad start i'm actually quite excited to print our next print which will be the multi-colored so let's click on the print sd card test files and click the pg cube here so it says it's going to take three hours and 22 minutes i'm gonna click the print button and there we go so the bed is coming up [Music] so for some odd reason our bed is heating up to 105 i don't know why it needs to be that hot but i guess i'm just gonna leave it now unless it's thinking that it's gonna be printing abs maybe that's what's going on and there's nothing i can do to change that because it doesn't let me all right so that's probably going to take a while for it to warm up to that temperature all right guys so as you can see it actually hit 105 106 now and it's heating up the extruders so that's quite impressive that it can go that hot and it actually didn't take too long maybe like four minutes well i guess right here it says five minutes total so it didn't seem that long overall so i guess about five minutes now it's six quite impressive that it can go to 105 with no issues so i do have white in the other extruder you can see the first extruder is extruding and the other one is kind of oozing out a bit so it does have white filament i don't know why it's oozing out so for now it's just building the raft so once it actually starts printing the model we should see color transitions between the two nozzles [Music] all right guys so it looks like we've transitioned to white and it's printing on top of the red so so far it looks like everything's going quite good so yeah we can see the second nozzle printing and the one on the left was actually seeping out okay so it looks like we're printing with the [Music] first nozzle now now definitely a problem i see is that the white one is seeping right now it's literally seeping as that one's printing so yeah that's not very good because it's getting you know all over the place where it's not supposed to be so i'm not sure if that's adjustable or what okay so now we're printing with the white one again all right well i'm not gonna say too much until it's done and we'll see what it comes out like but according to what i see i'm not sure if it's going to be all that great it does look quite messy right now so as it's printing and i'm looking at it it's actually printing a wall around the model that it's printing so i guess that's how it cleans itself out as against that wall and it seems to be working so now that i'm looking at it it's actually not looking bad kind of interesting the method that it has to clean itself out so i guess it purges around the wall and then it prints to make sure it's going to have a continuously good feed seems to work so we'll see what the model looks like once it's finished [Music] all right guys so our multi print is done and yeah it looks kind of like a pretty huge mess in here but the interesting part is the part itself actually doesn't look too bad so the technique he uses to clean itself is quite barbaric it seems like so there's a lot of seepage and you know the seepage kind of stays outside the walls and you know some inside also but in any case let's go ahead and try to take this off so it does come off quite easy so that's good and so this is what we are looking at so it did make a raft and i hope i can get it off so you guys can see the multi-colored cube actually doesn't look too bad there is quite a few hairs on it touching it but it does appear to be that it might clean up quite well now we might be able to adjust the settings where it's not seeping as much maybe a little more retraction or i'm not sure exactly what we can do to make this better so i'm going to try to break this cube loose i have a feeling this is not going to work that well so i'm going to just grab some snips and snip around it alright so we got some progress i want to see if i can rip the raft off completely yeah it's not coming off easy so so before i clean it off anymore let's go ahead and look at it a little closer so we can see there's quite a bit of little hairs everywhere and most of them do come off quite easy looks like but i can see some white in the red so that's not a good sign and more white in the red here not terrible but it is there and then we got these really hard lines here and this is our raft that needs to be pried off now the top will actually looks pretty decent and there's not much bleeding on the top a little bit you can see the white the red but no white at all in the red and a little bit of red in the white not bad all right so we did print a color print successfully now this was not the best execution but it still worked and the thing that kind of surprises me is the slice here not only was it too hot at 220 and this probably caused extra stringing and all this mess here but the thing that shocked me was the bed it was at 110 which might have been okay to use on abs obviously but for pla and i can't imagine somebody doing their first test print with anything else but pla but in any case that was definitely not good there so and that probably contributed to a lot more seepage and leakage also from the pla because you know pla was just way too overheated in any case i'm going to clean this off and we're going to take a look at it towards the end of the video closer and right now what i want to do is clean off the bed and speaking about the bed it's been working flawlessly so everything's sticking very well and popping off quite easy also so yeah so i guess it's working out better than i thought it would in the beginning so for the next part i'm going to replace the red pla and we're going to print the other file that was included on the sd card and abs all right so i loaded the abs filament in let's click on print test files well i guess i made a mistake because here it says pg right abs so i guess i should have loaded the abs and the other hot end on the right side let's click it anyways so that's the case i'm going to flip the filament around but what i'm going to do with this print is i want to copy it so instead of clicking print let's click copy and it's going to ask to copy the model we're going to say yes and so it's copying the file so it's putting it on the internal memory okay so copy success push okay now let's go back and i'm gonna pull the sd card out and we'll go to print and then internal and you can see it's right there so let's go ahead and fire this thing up and click print going to be heating up the right extruder so i'm going to quickly change the filament around so the nozzle is warming up to 225 and the bed is to 110 again now for abs this obviously makes sense since this machine has an enclosure we can close this door and also put this top back on to retain the heat and so this is not too hard to put on it just slides in make sure all of our tubes and cables go through the back and the top just pops right on so that bed heating up to 110 we should be able to retain more heat all these covers around and by the way guys there is quite a bit less noise with the cover on and the door closed all right so it looks like we're starting our print [Music] all right so it appears to be like everything's okay and it started so we are printing abs now and the bed being at 110 degrees is going to help us keep the abs from warping and we'll see how good that does and i wanted you guys to hear how loud it is with the door closed and the lid on top it's quite a bit quieter but the stepper noises are still coming through and there is some vibrations of just vibrating a bit i'm not sure what just the movements of the axis but overall it is quite loud so keep that in mind all right so we started this abs print and everything looks great so far so this looks like it's going to be the same object we printed first with the red pla so we'll see how this one comes out all right so our abs print is done and just by looking at it looks really good so let's see how easy it comes off the bed is completely cooled now not too bad and so this is what our print looks like and i'll have to say guys it actually looks quite a bit better than the pla model and this is also in black so it's quite a bit more revealing so we can see it's pretty good on the walls and then as we go up look how nice those layers are sitting and the round part is also very uniform and this is abs so it's quite a bit harder to print and it warps and as you guys can see we had no curling or anything funny at all so it turned out perfect so as far as the chamber heating up it seems to work very good able to retain the heat and not warp looks like so here's a quick look with both of them together side by side the red is pla and the black is abs and you can see that looks like they were sliced the same way just the temperatures are different all right so that's a nice sign and we can see that this printer has no issues with printing single colors and also abs looks like is doing good too so for the next part what i want to do is i want to slice my own print specifically a benchy and also print that in abs alright guys so here we are at the computer and i have the sd card plugged in and here we can see all the files that are in there so here we have some kind of extruder stl i guess maybe an extra part we have the flash print folder so we're going to install our slicer happy 3d package okay not sure what that's all about looks like that's for android or windows we got the test files the ones we printed and our pdf user guide if you want to go through this a little bit more in depth how to use the machine but what we need right now is the flash print software so they have a few options here but i am using a mac and they do have windows also i'm going to open up the mac version so the zip file unzipped and this is what we got flash print package let's go ahead and open it so it looks like we have a little wizard here to install agree to the license installation is 48.8 megabytes and it's installing and there it goes it looks like it is finished so we should be ready to go so i'm going to open up my launchpad and sure enough here we find flashprint let's go ahead and open it so there is a newer version available so i'm just going to skip the update for now so here we're going to choose the printer that we have so we have the creator max click ok so it gives you a little tutorial here what everything does so we can see here is our build plate and our volume i'm going to go ahead and throw the benchy in here and we can see the model right in the middle so if we click on it we will select it it kind of highlights it now this blue bar here shows where the front is so we're on view right now if we click on move we can actually move the vinci around by just clicking on it or we can put in the parameters here same way for rotating and we can scale it can also cut it and here we have the dual extruder control so we can set this to the right or the left so if you click on this you can see it changes color so our left extruder is green and our right is this light gray color so on the top we have a load button this we're going to load in the models and then we have supports so if you click on support so here you have some support options if you click on that you can kind of give it some more specifics and they have different kinds of tree-like and linear let's leave it on tree-like so if we click on auto-supports what it's going to do is it's going to generate these supports there so and you can play around with these parameters to kind of fine-tune them so for the adventure we don't need support so i'm going to clear it and that's pretty much it guys so we're going to click back here and for the last button up here is we have print so if we click that here we can slice the model so if you have your printer connected to wi-fi or through the cable you can print it after slicing it so here we have the machine the material we're using which is abs and it does specify for left or right supports are enabled but we do not need them so we're going to disable it and raft is disabled definitely don't want to use raft so the resolution is set to standard and here we have a few more options wall or brim now the wall is for our multi-color just like we saw in our other print how it builds the wall around it and kind of blocks the oozing from the nozzles and brim just helps the model stick better to the build plate by making a layer around it so if you click on more options here you can really adjust everything a little better and so i'm going to go ahead and adjust this so i'm going to put the layer height to 0.16 first layer is 0.27 i guess that's fine here we have more tabs of everything we can adjust so the next the shells so here you can set how many perimeters there are on the shelves i like to print with three solid top layers is three also i like to bump this up to five or six let's just make it five and we'll make the bottom four and fills at 15 which is usually fine and this is the type of infill and it is going to combine the infill every two layers so here we have the print speed 60 millimeters a second so let's bump that down to 50 and travel is at 80. temperature is 220 good for that abs so we'll leave it at that and the platform at 105 seem to work okay even though it's a little hot but it kind of needs to be for abs to keep it from warping and here we can control the cooling fan and a few choices of when it's on and here you can also pause it at certain heights so if you wanted to stop it because you needed to you know do something to the print you can actually put that in here so that's pretty cool that they have that all right so we're just going to save configuration down there push ok and now we're going to create a gx file that the printer will understand i'm going to throw it on the desktop and click save and it's slicing and there we go so it's done and up here in this corner we can see that it says that it's going to take 1 hour and 46 minutes and it's going to take about 4.5 meters of filament and if we want to see our slice parameters we're going to click on that button there and we can see all of our parameters that we put in and so it made the file and it's here on our desktop so all we got to do now is throw it into our sd card and when we open that up we can see it right here in the front but more importantly guys let's check out how we can do the dual color print now before you can do that you need a model that has two separate pieces so i have this little squirtle here so this is his body and then we also have his shell and if you can see there are two separate pieces so they can be two different colors so what we need to do is assign the extruders to each one so if we go down here to the extruder click on the body so this will be the right extruder and then on the shell we want this to be our left extruder so you can see it turns green and our body is the silver and this is an indication that the two different nozzles will be printing the two different parts as you can see our model is not together so what we need to do is combine them and the way you do that is you select the shell and on the mac here you just push command while selecting one of the models hold command click the other model and it'll highlight both of them so once they're highlighted we're going to click on move and then over here you see a reset button so if you click the reset it's going to combine them so now that they're combined it's a two-piece multi-color model so now we can go through the same steps we did earlier you know do our supports if we need the sports but this model doesn't need it obviously so we're going to go straight to print and here we can do the same thing except now we need to remember that we have two nozzles so we're going to assign the right and the left so i'm going to do pla for this one on both nozzles supports disabled giraffe disabled so all right so everything looks pretty good we'll okay it so it's asking us if we want to add a wall and we're going to say yes so here it's asking us if we want to do a raft or a bridge so we can fix the wall into the plate so i guess kind of all combine it together let's try brim because i definitely don't like the raft and now we're going to save the file and it's going to slice it and this is what it looks like so we can see we have a little wall around our model so we'll see how this works out it looks kind of crazy but and there is 300 layers we can see up there let's go ahead and go down with the layers so we can see a little better what it's going to do so we can see there's a brim on the very bottom and there goes our multi-layer color so it is purging around this wall or building this wall in two different colors so yeah and this is how you do the dual extruder slicing in flash print so you can see this is going to take two hours the amount of material is going to take for each extruder and here are our parameters [Music] alright so our dual color squirtle is done and i'm feeling really good about this one so it took two hours and 13 minutes so the build plate is still warm but since this is pla should come off quite easy okay that was really easy actually so far this build plate is definitely turning out just fine seems to stick and come off quite easy and this is what our contraption looks like so this is really interesting the way it prints this wall around the model and it seems to work it does look all crazy on the outside of the wall but looking on the inside it doesn't look too bad so instead of using a raft we used a brim so the outer part just comes right off now theoretically i should be able to push on the model and it would pop right out let's see if that works all right there it goes so this is what our shell looks like and this is the model without touching it at all so not too bad at all we got a few hairs here and there let's see how easy it comes off okay so relatively easy so there was a little bit of blue that seeped into here still got a little brim around them but overall i would say it's actually quite respectable so definitely a lot better than our first print and i think that had to do a lot with the temperatures being too hot but yeah look at that that's pretty good so there's obviously some places that are definitely affected and there's nothing we can do about it unfortunately it was right here next to his face i might actually clean up a little bit better but yeah overall it worked and it actually worked very well so even though it's not perfect i feel like this is definitely acceptable and if there is like a little white dot on the blue somewhere and vice versa you could technically just touch it up a bit and you pretty much would have a perfect model and the print quality itself also looks really really good so this is .16 layer height which turned out great all right well i'm really happy how this model turned out here so i'm pretty excited to print some more and also i want to print a few more other things and we'll check out the quality of those prints all right so i printed quite a few things and overall i have to say this printer works well and i didn't really have any kind of issues except for one particular thing that i'll get to in a second so let's go ahead and start off with our color prints so i printed three things in color which one of them was this cube here that was on the sd card and i tried to clean it up as best i could i didn't obviously take that much time but all the little dots you see and color leakage that's actually infused in to the plastic so so as we saw earlier this model was definitely printed too hot but still overall shows us what this printer can do then we saw the squirtle so he cleaned up okay i guess this was definitely the best one that turned out looks very nice and then we have the matterhackers astronaut in two colors also blue and white and the astronaut turned out okay i would say i guess but if you're going to be expecting this printer to do perfection that's just not going to happen because of the way it prints and the way the nozzles keep seeping as the other nozzle prints that is the main issue with the coloring here so you can see on this side we have a lot of seepage of the white and on the other side we have some seepage of the blue now that said the model still turns out quite nice we can see here on the shoes that it looks pretty good overall and you know it might be able to be cleaned up a little better than this this but overall this is what i would expect to be realistic now there are certain models that will print better the smaller they are the better they'll print because the nozzles won't overlap because what's happening is the white nozzle has to travel over into the blue areas and that's what all these little dots are going over the wall and then as it goes over the wall it's still seeping and then you know touching the blue so so for certain models this could work great but as overall it's definitely not perfect now the big plus is we can see how the layers are sitting and they're sitting very nice so all the prints that i printed and sliced our 0.16 layer height so so pretty fine prints and the layers are sitting very nicely so overall it's very fun to print and we can see here on the squirtle we have a lot less color bleeding and the reason why is because he's smaller so now the matte hacker astronaut has a buddy which is the squirtle here and so those are the color points that i did now let's go ahead and look at our abs printing so i was really impressed with how the abs turned out starting with this test print that we did in the beginning and you guys can see it's very nice just it looks very solid and very strong so great layer adhesion so i printed a benchy also an abs and this didn't turn out perfect but it did turn out pretty good we can see the layers are sitting really nice overall now there was some kind of issue here well we can see there are some vibrations in the walls it's not bad so over here nothing really turned out and i think this is where the stitching was made looks like and if you look at the wall looks really good the layers are sitting very nicely for abs this is really nice and we did have a little looks like maybe cooling issue here or something but yeah overall solid little and it isn't abs not bad so if you're going to print more simple functional shapes it definitely can do a really good job now the main thing to take away here is here we can see even on the benchy that we don't have any kind of curling it's flat so there was no raft or anything this was just straight to the bed and the benchy didn't warp or curl up or anything so that just proves that this enclosure here really works and the heated bed keeps it hot enough to be able to print abs with no issues looks like all right so let's look at some of our pla models so again this was printed in pla from the sd card also turned out quite nice so here we have a pretty important print which is a bearing and to my surprise it printed out perfect so this bearing is quite hard to print because there's six gears and the tolerances are tiny between them so the printer really has to put the layers down accurately for this to work so once i pop this off the bed i gave it a little spin and it just spun right up and the gaps between the gears are tiny like you can see that it's not moving much this is definitely more on the perfect side so and you can see there's no issues whatsoever with retractions or anything funny so works very well for this gear i was actually quite impressed with that and here we can see our wall also very nice so it definitely puts the layers down very good and not just that the print itself feels solid so it definitely bonds excellent so then i wanted to print something a lot more fragile and also in this silk silver so we can see a lot better how this printer prints now silk filament usually reveals everything like you can usually see all the vibrations and you know any imperfections really easily so we can really see how good this little frog turned out it's just almost perfect and what's impressive is his belly here this is usually never this good so this printer was able to print this frog definitely above my expectations and this is also 0.16 layer height so very nice i'm very impressed with this print here now i did forget another color print and so the great thing about this cube it can show us our axes very well so here's our x-axis we can see we have a little bit of ghosting there and we can also see the color and we got some blue right here that's leaked into silver so y has some ghosting also and a bit of vibrations and a little bit of color leakage on here so not too bad so here's our other x you can see a lot more leaking and our other y a little more color leaking here too so and this is the bottom turned out really nice and the top looks like i didn't have enough layers here you can see the end fill oh yeah so this is kind of what you can expect from the vibrations and the ghosting and also the dual color so we can see two sides are worse than the other two and so for our last two prints i did spiralize mode so let's go ahead and check out the spaceship here so this is quite small and the reason it's this small is because this is the maximum z height that this printer can print so you can see by this build plate that it's more wide than deep and also not very tall actually as tall as this vase here behind so the spaceship turned out okay overall but being this small it did run into some issues so our bottom looks great our walls look pretty good pretty nice and actually you can tell here on these booster things the filament is sitting really good now there was a place here that it looks like it had under extrusion or something maybe so that might have been just my filament catching on something and that was actually something that i wanted to show you guys and we'll do that here in a second nothing really to complain about too much the layers are sitting good there's some vibrations in the print but then as we go up here because this is also small and it is just one layer so this is spiralized mode one layer all the way up we can see that either it was too hot or maybe the fan was blowing too hard or something but we started to have some warpage over here and then as we went up on this point here it really all just melted away and there's supposed to be a little ball here and it completely melted yeah i wasn't expecting much out of this because of how small it is so this is about typical for spiralized mode for the small of an item so then i printed this large spiralized mode print which is a vase and this is a pretty cool vase i guess so it did a great job and this is a rainbow filament so it kind of changes color as it goes up so if we look at the reflections the layers are sitting beautifully like there's no issues with a layer binding with this printer now there is a little bit of vibration and you can see it but as far as fused together it seems like as good as it gets because even if i squish this you can see it's really strong so that just tells me that the layers have bonded very well so and the way you do spiralize mode is in the slicer you just put perimeter as one and then infill zero and then top layer you put to one because zero it just doesn't let you and that's how it prints and spiralize so yeah guys as you see the prints overall are pretty nice and it definitely prints quite good overall but i do have to mention that this printer definitely feels a little aged especially in 2020 and the reason i'm saying this is because of the loud stepper motors you know there you can hear them and most printers these days have eliminated that that's the first thing second thing there's no filament detection here and probably not a huge deal because of the build size i do love the touchscreen and the ui very easy to use but again it doesn't have all the options that i would like to see especially while you're printing you can't adjust anything seems like and probably one of the biggest issues that i see especially a seasoned 3d printer that would be interested in this printer would definitely not appreciate that you are locked into the flash print software and there's not much there you can adjust now i'm not sure if you can use cura or not on this thing you might be able to but it does generate its own unique code of gx so but keep that in mind that you will have to use the flash print software to slice your models so as far as the prey heads they work great there's no issues there the extruders work the cooling fan seems to work just fine also i guess depending on which extruder you're on the heated bed is excellent heats up really quick and gets extra hot and because this printer is completely enclosed it's a great option for printing more hotter materials like abs petg and others that require the heat not just on the nozzle also on the bed and the enclosure so this thing seems to do a great job at that and the build construction of this printer is great because it does have a metal frame so it feels really solid and it doesn't flex at all and i definitely love these handles on both sides that you can pick it up and move it around now there's only one thing that i wish this printer did differently and it's these spool holders and the way the filament is fed in number one the spool holder is way too small to hold any kind of normal spool so if i grab this overture spool here we can see this is pretty much how all those pulls are but flash forged doesn't let you use these pulls and if you try to let's say you put it in there it doesn't stay in there and as it spins it kind of comes out and falls so unfortunately that is definitely not a good thing when you are forced to use only their type of spools which have this special inner ring here that is thinner that makes their spool holder clip in there just right and it doesn't even come out so so for that part i'm a little disappointed unless they're aiming for specific groups or manufacturing that would only use their product this is definitely not friendly for everybody and also the way these tubes feed is just not good at all like it's really hard to tell but it's a terrible angle the filament's constantly pulling on the spool alright guys well hopefully you enjoyed this video of the creator max by flashforge and this printer did come from flashforge usa so if you're interested in this thing i'm gonna have some links in the description check that out and if you enjoyed 3d printing videos i have a playlist of quite a few videos i already did and there's also a lot more to come so stay tuned for more and as always thanks for watching and i'll see you on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 27,680

Keywords: 3d printer, 3d printing, flashforge creator max, 3d printers for beginners, 3d printers, flashforge 3d printer, 3d printer review, 3d printers under $1000, 3d printer time lapse, flashforge creator, flashforge creator max dual extruder 3d printer, flashforge creator 3, flashforge creator max review, dual extrusion printer, unboxing flashforge creator max, unboxing flashforge, unboxing flashforge usa creator max, 3d printed, flashforge usa, 3d printer time lapse camera

Id: UOfMJc0H5sE

Length: 49min 37sec (2977 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 07 2020